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Many   Memories 

Of  Life  in  India,  at  Home, 
and  Abroad 


"Die  Bilder  froher  Tage, 
Und  manche  Hebe  Schatten  steigen  auf." 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2011  with  funding  from 

University  of  Toronto 


http://www.archive.org/details/manymemoriesofliOOrive 


From  a  /'koto  by 


G.   !!'.  Lawrie  &  Co.,  Luckt 


J.    H.    RIVETT-CARNAC, 

BENGAL   CIVIL   SERVICE,    COLONEL   GHAZIPORE   LIGHT    HORSE, 
AND   AIDE-DE-CAMP   TO   QUEEN    VICTORIA. 


Many  Memories 

Of  Life  in   India,   at  Home, 
and   Abroad 


BY 

J.    H.    RIVETT-CARNAC 

ESQUIRE,    C.I.E.,   V.D.,   F.S.A. 

LATE   INDIAN    CIVIL  SERVICE,   COLONEL  VOLUNTEERS,    AND   AIDE-DE-CAMP 

TO   H.M.    QUEEN   VICTORIA   AND  H.M.    KING   EDWARD   VII. 

KNIGHT  GRAND  COMMANDER   OF   FRANCIS  JOSEPH   AND  OF  THE   POLAR   STAR 

FELLOW   OF   THE    UNIVERSITY   OF    BOMBAY,    FOREIGN    MEMBER    OF   THE    ROYAL 

ACADEMY   OF   SPAIN,    OF   THE   ROYAL   ACADEMY   OF   SWEDEN,    AND   OF 

BELGIUM,  THE  ROYAL  SOCIETY  OF  NORTHERN  ANTIQUARIES,  THE 

NATIONAL  SOCIETY  OF  ANTIQUARIES  OF  FRANCE,    OF  THE 

BERLIN  SOCIETY  OF  ANTIQUARIES,   ETC.,   ETC.,   ETC. 


William   Blackwood   and   Sons 

Edinburgh  and  London 

1910 


AT.T.    PTflHTS    PFSFPIS  F  n 


3 


TO 

mY    HILDEGARDE, 

THE  MOST   VALUED   OF  ALL  MY  MEMORIES. 


PREFACE. 


In  launching  this,  my  literary  venture,  I  am  unfortunately 
unable  to  protect  it  with  the  conventional  declaration  that 
these  notes  have  been  collated  without  the  remotest  in- 
tention of  publication,  and  that  it  is  solely  owing  to  the 
insistence  of  friends  that  they  now  see  the  light. 

As  a  fact,  like  many  old  men  who,  after  an  active  life, 
have  retired  from  affairs,  I  have  been  much  interested  in 
my  later  years  in  talking  over  the  times  of  the  gone-by. 
And  when  I  have  lacked  an  audience,  I  have  been  amused, 
conversing  as  if  it  were  with  myself,  and  jotting  down  now 
and  again  some  of  my  reminiscences.  These  I  have  wished 
to  see  in  print ;  and  with  this  desire  I  now  send  them 
forth,  but  not  without  a  hope  that  they  may  amuse  some 
of  my  old  friends  who  still  survive,  to  whom  many  of  the 
incidents  are  well  known,  and  that  they  may  also  help  to 
entertain  others  to  whom  the  stories  are  new. 

I  am  fully  conscious  of  the  faults  and  shortcomings  of 
this  collection,  and  realise  that  it  would  be  well  to  follow 
the  advice  of  Horace  and  put  the  manuscript  aside  for  a 
time,  and  then  carefully  to  revise  the  text. 

But  I  have  now  passed  my  seventy-first  birthday,  and 
having  recently  suffered  from  a  long  and  dangerous  illness, 
I  have  neither  the  health  nor  the  patience  to  support  the 
revision   required.      So   these   notes   must    go   out   even   in 


Vlll  PREFACE 

the  careless,  conversational  way  in  which  they  have  been 
chronicled. 

No  attempt  has  been  made  in  this  volume  to  enlarge  on 
the  social,  economical,  and  political  condition  of  India  in 
my  time.  During  the  greater  part  of  my  service  there  I 
was  closely  associated  with  my  near  kinsman,  the  late  Sir 
Richard  Temple,  and  that  very  able  and  industrious  man 
has  left  on  record,  in  several  published  volumes,  full  in- 
formation on  all  these  subjects.  But  whereas  his  valuable 
works  are  the  records  of  the  council  -  chamber  and  the 
study,  my  contribution  relates,  so  to  speak,  more  to  the 
smoking-room  and  the  camp-fire. 

As  this  volume  has  assumed  an  autobiographical  form, 
the  first  personal  pronoun  necessarily  recurs.  Under  the 
circumstances,  it  is  hoped  that  this  offence  may  be  con- 
doned. 

J.    H.    RIVETT-CARNAC. 


SCHLOSS  ROTHBERG  (CHATEAU  DE  ROUGEMONT), 

Switzerland,  December  1909. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER     I. 

PARENTAGE    AND    EARLY    LIFE.       1838-1857. 

Birth  and  parentage — Ryvet  family  of  Suffolk — Foreign  blood — 
Boileau  de  Castelnau — Grandfather,  Mr  Davis,  R.E.,  defends 
the  staircase  at  Benares — Visits  of  Mountstuart  Elphinstone 
and  Lord  Hardinge — Life  at  Broadstairs — Charlie  Dickens 
— Foreign  water-cures — School  at  Bonn — Prince  Frederick 
of  Prussia,  afterwards  German  Emperor — Prince  of  Anhalt 
— Mr  Bulwer-Lytton — Our  connection  with  Lord  Palmerston 
— Promised  appointment  in  Foreign  Office — Lord  Palmer- 
ston's  advice  —  Have  to  take  up  Indian  appointment — 
Haileybury — Last  term — Fall  of  Delhi — The  "  Legislator  " 
— Balls'  Park  and  its  guests — United  Service  Club  and  the 
Admiral's  Corner— Raynham — Political  friends — Eartham 
coterie — Lady  Palmerston's  Saturday  evenings — Story  of 
Lady  Palmerston — End  of  Haileybury — Across  Europe — 
Leighton  at  Giotto's  Chapel — Tegernsee — Munich — Sir  J. 
Milbanke  —  Baroness  Tautphceus  and  '  The  Initials  ' — 
Vienna — Birth  of  the  Crown  Prince  Rudolph  —  Lord  A. 
Loftus — Austrian  review — Trieste — Eastward  ho  ! 


CHAPTER     II. 

ARRIVAL    IN    INDIA,    AND    LIFE    IN    CALCUTTA.       1 857. 

Calcutta — Arrival  of  the  mail — First  impressions — India  trans- 
ferred to  the  Crown — Colonel  Mundy  on  caste — Sir  H. 
Thuillier  on  Indian  servants  —  The  Bengal  Club  —  The 
Calcutta  season  —  The  so-called  college — Munshis  —  The 
competition  men — Cream  of  the  universities — Some  draw- 
backs —  Twins  —  Changes  in  society  —  The  old  style — 
Hospitality — Stay  with  Sir  James  Outram — His  consider- 
ateness — Illness — The  Bheel^Lady  Outram's  two  Wallahs 


CONTENTS 

— Sir  Bartle  and  Lady  Frere — Their  delightful  hospitality 
— Major  Malleson — Colonel  Nassau  Lees — Am  appointed 
Master  of  the  Revels  —  The  town  band  —  Lord  Clyde — 
Memorable  dinner  given  by  Right  Hon.  James  Wilson  to 
Lord  Canning — Sir  John  Peter  Grant — Am  passed  out  of 
college  in  Calcutta  ........  28 


CHAPTER     III. 

IN   THE    MOFUSSIL,    MIDNAPORE,    AND    THE    INCOME-TAX 
COMMISSION.       I  86 1. 

Appointed  Assistant  -  Magistrate  at  Midnapore  —  Mr  F.  R. 
Cockerell — My  work  there — A  dacoity  case — Bears — Visit 
to  Calcutta — Mrs  Monty:  Turnbull :  her  salon  and  its  terrors 
— The  Income- Tax  Commission — Appointed  Secretary  to 
Commission — Press  criticism — Shoe  question  and  truculent 
Babus — They  answer  it  for  themselves — Appointed  Under- 
Secretary  in  the  Home  Department  —  Red  office-box  — 
Political  uniform  —  Trap  for  a  gobe-mouche — My  new  work 
— Anxieties  with  first  despatch — Lord  Canning  on  my  hand- 
writing—  Appointed  Joint- Magistrate  at  Burdwan  —  Our 
pleasant  life  there — Arrival  of  Lord  Elgin — Reception  held 
in  Calcutta  —  Cholera  —  Colonel  Denny  attacked  —  No 
medical  aid  available  —  Incident  at  mail-train  —  Doctor 
refuses  to  come — Death  of  Colonel  Denny — Indignation  in 
Calcutta  —  Orders  by  the  Viceroy  on  duties  of  medical 
officers  —  Temple  appointed  Chief  Commissioner  of  the 
Central  Provinces — Offers  me  post  of  Assistant-Secretary 
— Farewell  to  civilisation  !......  49 


CHAPTER    IV. 

UP-COUNTRY    AND   THE   CENTRAL    PROVINCES.       1 862. 

The  journey  up-country — Lepel  Griffin — After  a  bear — Benares 
— In  a  bullock-coach  to  Jubbulpore — The  mail-cart — Arrival 
at  the  Residency,  Nagpore — The  Central  Provinces  Com- 
mission— Value  of  the  appointments — Temple,  my  new  chief 
— His  industry  and  power  of  work — Simplicity  of  his  char- 
acter— Formation  of  his  staff — Distinguished  careers  of 
Temple's  lieutenants — His  method  of  work — Nagpore  in 
the  'Sixties — The  museum — The  old  chiefs  contribution 
thereto — His  disappointment — The  scientific  Governor  and 
skulls  in  duplicate — Dangerous  results  of  the  order — Wild 
tribes  and  skulls  plentiful — Fate  of  the  anthropological 
collection  .........  69 


CONTENTS  XI 

CHAPTER    V. 
AT   NAGPORE.       I  862-1  864. 

European  Society — "  Camp  fashion  " — Ladies  in  Lower  Bengal 
— The  terrors  of  precedence,  its  difficulties  and  pitfalls — 
The  army  chaplain  and  his  new  rank — My  blunder — The 
amende — A  secretary's  announcement. 

Tigers  I  have  known — First  experience  at  Dacca — Tiger  on 
elephant — Tigers  in  the  Chandah  district — Merited  apprecia- 
tion of  the  tiger  by  Mr  Rees,  M.P. — The  tiger's  place  in 
the  village  economy — The  "virtuous"  tiger — Relapse  from 
virtue — Cattle-killer  and  man-eater  —  Death  of  a  village 
scourge — Tiger  killed  on  top  of  a  man — My  Swiss  servant 
improves  my  tiger-skins — Merits  of  spherical  bullets  at  close 
quarters — The  panther — Tragic  death  of  Lieutenant  St  John 
Shaw,  R.H.A. — The  brave  Gondh  beater — His  reward,  and 
consequent  domestic  ruin. 

A  search  in  the  Nagpore  record-room — Original  despatches  of 
General  Wellesley  (Duke  of  Wellington) — "Wesley  Sahib's" 
certificate  in  hands  of  a  native  landholder — Camping — The 
Chief  Commissioner's  big  camp — Temple  on  the  march — 
His  patience  with  natives — Flying  camp  across  Baitool — 
Major  Baldwin  and  his  district  notes — Gives  me  the  idea  of 
a  Gazetteer — My  proposal — Testimony  of  Sir  Alfred  Lyall — 
Great  Indian  Gazetteer  of  Sir  William  Hunter  follows  .  .  89 


CHAPTER    VI. 

IN   CAMP BOMBAY.       I  864. 

The  so-called  Indian  bison — Old  men  and  new  methods — Deputy- 
Commissioner  No.  1 — Book-circular  on  arboriculture — The 
old  officer's  failure — The  young  civilian  No.  2 — His  marked 
success — The  impudent  mango  bantlings — Halts  by  the 
way — The  colonel's  discomfiture — Administrative  ability — 
Timely  breakfast  and  appreciation  in  camp  of  this  quality — 
The  hideous  secret  of  the  great  mango  trick — Am  sworn  to 
secrecy — Punishment  of  the  peccant  tehsildar  and  its  results 
— The  Alfred  Lyall  Avenue  in  the  Hoshungabad  district — 
Afternoon  tea  on  Terrace  of  the  House  of  Commons  thirty 
years  later — The  two  Privy  Councillors — The  secret  revealed 
— Temple's  fury — Sir  Alfred  Lyall  vicariously  to  blame — 
The  astute  police  inspector,  an  Indian  village  idyll — Import- 
ance of  explaining  orders  to  the  people — The  new  tax  and 
official  seal — The  Gondh  shikari  and  increased  tiger  reward 


Xli  CONTENTS 

— "Progress"  since  those  days — "The  Old  Pindaree" — 
Popularity  of  Sir  Alfred  Lyall's  poem — First  published  by 
me  in  local  newspaper — Story  of  the  Temple  medal — His 
entire  innocence  of  the  whole  matter — Proposed  as  Exhibition 
medal  during  his  absence  in  England — My  successful  oppo- 
sition— Medal  struck  privately — Mint-master  adds  laurel- 
wreath  as  a  bad  joke — Temple  unfairly  blamed — Visits  to 
Bombay  with  Temple — The  cotton  famine — Wild  specula- 
tion— Sir  Bartle  Frere's  warning  to  the  services — Hospitality 
at  Government  House — The  Governor's  great  charm — His 
appearance  at  the  Poonah  review — Shares  offered  to  Temple 
— His  righteous  indignation — His  strictness  in  this  respect 
— Insists  on  officers  banking  with  Bank  of  Bengal  instead 
of  with  native  shroffs        .  .  .  .  .  .  .116 


CHAPTER    VII. 

CHANDAH.       I  865-I  866. 

Am  appointed  Settlement  Officer — The  assessment  of  the  Govern- 
ment land  revenue — The  bestowal  of  proprietary  right — The 
question  in  the  Gurboree  district  of  Chandah — The  claims 
of  the  absentee  Court-favourites  versus  the  Coerie  cultivators 
on  the  spot — The  great  tanks,  or  artificial  lakes,  made  by 
these  latter — I  decide  a  ruling  case  in  favour  of  the  cultivator 
— Great  joy  throughout  the  district — My  pleasures  in  camp 
— The  people  by  degrees  gain  confidence — Commencement 
with  the  children — Elephant  rides  —  Magic-lantern — The 
duck,  fish,  and  magnet — Parents  join  in  the  revels — My 
success — Destroyed  by  counter-attraction — A  six  weeks' 
British  baby  arrives  in  camp — Is  powdered  twice  daily  in 
public — My  shows  are  deserted — Companions  of  my  solitude 
— Sport — Sketching — 'Cello — Intelligent  young  elephant — 
My  beloved  "  Selim" — How  the  old  sheikh  selected  him  for 
me — The  Arab's  companionship  in  camp — Horse  has  no 
chance  against  dog  as  a  house  companion — Selim's  services, 
extending  over  more  than  twenty  years — His  devoted  old 
groom,  Kurban — Selim  dies  of  snake-bite  —  Sorrow  and 
depravity  of  Kurban — Takes  to  native  liquor,  and  follows 
his  beloved  companion — My  books — Prinsep's  '  Antiquities  ' 
— '  The  Initials  ' — '  Undine  '  and  '  Sintram  ' — '  Mr  Sponge's 
Sporting  Tour' — Dangerous  companion  to  a  young  man — 
Melancholy  story  of  "Black  Tommy"  and  this  book — My 
successors  with  Temple — The  brethren  of  St  Francois  de 
Sales  at  Nagpore — I  assist  their  colony,  and  shoot  heretic 
tiger — The  band — Priest  on  the  committee — The  sick 
young  priest's  reasons  for  declining  my  hospitality — He  is 
persuaded         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .144 


CONTENTS  Xlll 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

COTTON   COMMISSIONER.       I  866-1  868. 

Appointed  Cotton  Commissioner — My  duties  with  the  trade — 
With  the  cultivation — Difficulties  of  the  road-carriage — 
Cotton  delayed  at  the  railway  stations — Lack  of  waggons — 
Bribes  to  station  people — Regulation  of  traffic  and  institution 
of  cotton  yards — Become  Puss-in-Boots  on  the  line — Euro- 
pean firms  begin  to  come  up-country — Foreigners  and  steam 
machinery  introduced — My  initial  success  in  Bombay,  thanks 
to  a  story — My  Bombay  friends — Little  Birdwood — Indian 
•  Punch  ' — Charley  Watts-Russell — Dr  James  Wilson — Rev. 
Mr  Stephen  Hislop — Temple  goes  to  Hyderabad  as  Resident 
— "  The  Nagpore  Cinderella,"  by  Sir  Alfred  Lyall — Temple 
and  the  caricaturist — Ride  with  Temple  across  from  Akola 
to  Hyderabad — The  Eastern  mandate,  "  Prepare  ye  the  way 
of  the  Lord" — The  delights  of  the  320-mile  ride — Excellence 
of  the  arrangements — My  ride  from  Oomrautee  to  Nagpore 
— Visits  to  Khangaon — A  rotund  table  and  impossibility  of 
"sitting  on  its  head,"  according  to  Teutonic  ideas — Some 
expensive  liqueur  brandy — Temple  Finance  Minister — Lord 
Lawrence  as  Viceroy — Am  summoned  to  Simlah — Its  delights 
— Interview  with  Lord  Lawrence — His  great  State  services 
— His  kindness  and  encouragement — I  find  my  Hildegarde 
— Engaged  to  be  married — Lord  Lawrence  comes  up  to 
congratulate  us — His  magnificent  present — Our  marriage — 
M'Gregor  as  my  best  man — His  distinguished  career — 
Marries  one  of  the  bridesmaids — Sir  Henry  Durand — My 
devotion  to  my  father-in-law — His  splendid  qualities  .        165 


CHAPTER    IX. 

WITH    LORD   MAVO.       1 868. 

Lord  Mayo  succeeds  Lord  Lawrence  as  Viceroy — We  visit  Lord 
Napier  of  Magdala  at  Bombay — Summoned  to  Umballa — 
First  interview  with  Lord  Mayo — Confides  to  me  the  con- 
struction of  the  first  State  Railway  in  India — The  Amir  of 
Afghanistan  at  Umballa — Simlah — Difficulties  with  the  rail- 
way— Mr  Alex.  Izat  appointed  Engineer — His  success — 
Capture  rails  from  Bombay — General  Trevor,  R.E. — Major 
O.  Burne  as  Private  Secretary — His  excellent  management 
— Sir  Henry  Maine  lends  us  his  Simlah  house — Personal 
work  with  Lord  Mayo — Major  Lucie-Smith's  coal-mine — His 
discoveries  in  Chandah — Opposed  by  the  Geological  Depart- 


Xiv  CONTENTS 

merit — His  perseverance — Lord  Mayo  shows  me  the  file — 
Orders  further  investigation — Tour  in  Chandah — Plot  by  the 
Staff — Lord  Mayo's  night-ride  in  a  bullock-coach — Opening 
of  coal-mine — Distribution  of  rewards — Major  Lucie-Smith's 
great  services — Lord  Mayo  opens  Khangaon  State  Railway, 
the  first  in  India — Rewards  my  Private  Secretary — A  Gov- 
ernor's views  on  patronage — A  shoot  in  the  Sauthpoorah 
jungles — The  Viceregal,  or  so-called  Local  Fund,  tiger — 
Expenses  incurred  therewith — Bullocks — Indisposition  of 
tiger  from  overfeeding — Expensive  medical  attendance  neces- 
sary— The  shoot  reserved  for  the  Viceroy — Catastrophe  of 
a  chance  shot — Lamentable  immediate  decease  of  the  tiger 
— His  cost — Difficulties  raised  by  the  Accountant-General — 
The  Rev.  Dr  Wilson's  veracious  story  of  a  Bombay  tiger      .        190 


CHAPTER    X. 

WORK   UNDER   LORD   MAYO — HIS   ASSASSINATION.       1 872. 

Sir  Henry  Durand  goes  to  the  Punjab  as  Lieutenant-Governor — 
I  am  appointed  Commissioner  of  Cotton  and  Commerce  with 
the  Government  of  India — At  Simlah — Franco-German  War 
— Lord  Napier's  view  of  probable  effect — '  Alice  in  Wonder- 
land' dramatised  by  us  at  Simlah — Lord  Mayo  and  his 
household  assist — Great  success — Interview  with  uninvited 
"  plunger  " — Death  of  Sir  Henry  Durand — Foreign  visitors — 
Employed  as  cicerone — Russian  Mission — Austrian  Mission 
— Appointed  Knight  Grand  Commander  of  Order  of  Francis 
Joseph — General  Vlangaly,  Russian  Minister — His  ideas 
about  dangers  on  the  road — Monsieur  Jacques  Siegfried 
deputed  by  the  Emperor  Napoleon — Peace  by  establishing 
strong  commercial  relations — Germans  find  M.  Siegfried's 
Report  on  Emperor's  table  at  Fontainebleau — Our  visit  to 
the  Chateau  de  Langais,  since  gifted  to  the  French  nation — 
Lord  Mayo  on  infallibility  of  a  Viceroy — Correspondent  of 
'  The  Times  '  temporarily — Of  ■  The  Manchester  Guardian ' 
— Sir  George  Campbell  and  Sir  Charles  Bernard — Bernard 
not  in  accord  with  Campbell's  policy — Leaves  Secretariat 
believing  Campbell  his  enemy — Campbell  chooses  Bernard 
as  Secretary  for  Bengal — Asks  me  to  sound  Lord  Mayo 
— Bernard's  astonishment — Appointed  Secretary — His  im- 
mense success  and  merits — The  Kipling  family — Mr  Lock- 
wood  Kipling  at  School  of  Art,  Bombay — Young  Rudyard's 
early  theological  ideas  —  His  later  contributions  to  '  The 
Pioneer '  —  Mr  Lockwood  Kipling  undertakes  for  me 
sketches  of  Indian  craftsmen — His  visit  to  us  at  Simlah — 
High  price  realised  for  copy  of  Rudyard's  early  poems — 
Sketches  of  Lord  Mayo — Master  Terence  in  possession — 
His  discretion — Lady  Connemara's  story  of  Lord  Dalhousie's 


CONTENTS  XV 

only  confidante  in  India — With  Lord  Mayo  in  Calcutta  in 
January  1872 — Dine  with  him  on  last  evening — His  con- 
versation with  my  wife — Good-bye — Assassination  of  Lord 
Mayo — Universal  sorrow — His  lovable  character  and  success 
as  Viceroy — Qualifications  required  for  the  office — Lord 
Minto's  resemblance  to  Lord  Mayo  .  .  •  .213 


CHAPTER    XL 

HOME.       1872. 

Homeward  bound — The  P.  and  O.  steamer — Angels  unawares — 
Dignatories  of  the  Italian  Court — Attention  at  Naples — 
Reception  of  Siamese  Mission — Royal  box  at  the  opera 
gala — Charlie  Dickens — Rome — Monseigneur  Howard — His 
Holiness  the  Pope — Cardinal  Antonelli — Cardinal  Barnabo 
— Monseigneur  Stonor — The  Archbishop's  servant — System 
of  tipping — Indian  definition — Across  the  Continent — My 
uniform  at  the  customs — An  Elder  Brother  of  the  Trinity 
House  and  his  alarming  French — Foreign  idea  of  a  lady 
from  India — Back  at  Bonn — Sad  story  of  Sidonia — London — 
Northumberland  House — Albury — Syon — Duke  and  Duchess 
of  Argyll — Placed  on  duty  at  the  India  Office — The  Ex- 
hibition— Mrs  Rivett-Carnac's  collection  of  women's  orna- 
ments— Lac  ornaments — Derivation  of  the  word — An  invita- 
tion and  its  complications — Destruction  of  Northumberland 
House — The  Duke's  proposals — A  posting  tour — Bentley 
Priory — The  Tile  House,  Denham — Lady  Emily  Drummond 
and  the  long  ago — Bannerdown — Post  and  hearse  horses — 
Salisbury — Mr  Stevens  the  antiquary — To  Manchester — 
Dinner  in  Town  Hall  given  me  by  Chamber  of  Commerce 
— Gold  medal  of  the  Cotton  Supply  Association — My  two 
supporters — Both  now  Privy  Councillors — Difficulties  of 
oratory — Mr  C.  P.  Scott,  M.P. — Sir  Stafford  Northcote — 
Mr  Campbell  of  Islay — Lord  Granville     ....       237 


CHAPTER     XII. 

AT    HOME.       1872. 

At  Guy's  Cliffe — Lady  Charles  Percy  and  smoking — Duchesse 
de  la  Marmora  on  my  Italian  acquaintances — Lady  Dormer 
and  the  Tichborne  case — Lord  Dormer's  entomological  col- 
lection— General  Jim  Dormer  routs  the  mission  from  the 
Mahdi — Kielder  Castle — Chevy  Chase — Grouse  and  my 
grey-hen — Alnwick  Castle — Its  splendours — Baron  Hiibner 


XVI  CONTENTS 

thereon — Mediaeval  castles  v.  modern  habitations — Cup- 
marks  at  Alnwick — Views  of  the  Duke  of  Argyll — My 
hobby — Sir  John  Drummond-Hay — Lord  Iddesleigh  and 
Morocco — Artistic  description — Sir  John  and  the  great  Elchi 
— Visit  to  Edinburgh — Glories  of  the  place — At  Raynham 
again — How  a  barrister  was  created — Rougham  Hall  and 
its  inhabitants — Sir  Harry  Keppel  and  naval  gunnery — 
Castle  Ashby — A  distinguished  medico — Lord  and  Lady 
Alwyne  Compton — Lord  Northampton — Lady  Marion  Alford 
— The  footman  on  Niagara — Partridges  in  real  stubble — 
Some  experiences  of  London  charities — The  late  Marquis 
Townshend — Large  sums  given  in  charity — My  efforts  to 
assist — Society  of  Universal  Benevolence — A  case  before 
the  committee — What  resulted  therefrom — Difficult  question 
of  charitable  relief — My  heretical  views — Sir  Henry  Maine 
and  incorrigible  young  civilian — Estimate  of  value  of  being 
relieved  from  the  question  of  poverty  .....        261 


CHAPTER    XIII. 

THE    FAMINE.       1874. 

Return  to  India — Change  in  the  Government — My  special  duties 
nearly  worked  out — Proposals  to  abolish  my  appointment — 
Lord  Northbrook's  fairness  and  support — Major  Baring  his 
Private  Secretary,  now  the  Earl  of  Cromer — Appointed 
Special  Commissioner  for  Bengal  Famine — Purchase  of 
grain  and  organisation  of  transport — Bullock-carts  and  mule- 
and  pony-trains — Large  number  of  military  officers  employed 
— Trains  organised  in  charge  of  sepoys,  commanded  by 
British  officers — Their  patience,  energy,  and  splendid  ser- 
vices— Difficulties  on  the  road — Sir  Ian  Hamilton's  first 
appearance  at  Allahabad — Other  workers  on  the  Famine — 
The  Native  staff — Romany  Babu — The  Great  Gugun — 
Appreciation  by  the  British  officer  of  the  Native  staff — The 
ocal  chaplain  and  his  candidates — Clerk  and  chorister — 
His  disappearance — Accounted  for — Subsequent  career — A 
different  specimen — A  Rugby  boy — Officer — Fireman — The 
new  moon  fatal — Efforts  to  pull  him  through — Vicissitudes 
— Ultimate  triumph — Peaceful  end  as  planter  and  sportsman 
— Experiences  with  drunkenness — My  theories  regarding 
food  and  cooking  as  a  deterrent — Difficulties  of  providing 
for  me — Am  appointed  Benares  Opium  Agent — Advantages 
of  the  appointment — In  harbour — Babu's  interpretation  of 
a  haven — The  Indian  opium  revenue — The  Benares  agency 
— The  staff — Methods — The  pleasures  of  patronage — An 
impossible  yet  strictly  true  experience       .  .  .  .284 


CONTENTS  XV11 

CHAPTER    XIV. 

AT  GHAZIPORE.      1 876  onwards. 

Examinations — Importance  of  the  language  question — My  sym- 
pathy with  the  examinees — Old  Nuckshahs  and  his  terrors 
— Other  members  of  the  committee — The  best  bull-pup  in 
Upper  India — Lob  Lane  and  Departmental  Examinations — 
The  old  Colonel's  views  of  the  language — Original  method 
of  drawing  a  proof  of  an  examination  paper — The  Powers 
that  was  —  The  Paramount  Power — The  "  Belly- Gerant" 
Power — Their  splendid  conduct  during  the  Mutiny — Storm 
in  a  flower-pot — Sad  effects  of  a  green  waistcoat — Failure 
of  my  diplomacy — Our  palace  on  the  Ganges — Pleasures 
of  life — The  delights  of  camp — A  morning  in  the  bazaar — 
Coin-collecting — Metal  work — The  fiurana  chiz — Old  blue 
china — An  enterprising  collector — Lord  Ralph  Kerr  puts  us 
on  the  track — A  friend  from  home — Native  leather — A  pair 
of  bazaar  shoes — Terrific  result — Signalling  by  lollipops — 
An  astute  banker  and  peccant  signaller — On  the  road  to 
Fatehgarh — Railway  ballast — The  ruined  temple — The  pres- 
ervation of  antiquarian  remains — My  paper  before  the  Asiatic 
Society — Government  complications — And  orders  resulting 
therefrom  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .312 


CHAPTER    XV. 

ON    THE    GANGES    AND    IN    THE    HILLS.       1877-1885. 

Ad  montem — Pachmarhi — Mussourie — The  Duke  and  Duchess 
of  Connaught — Her  Royal  Highness's  interest  in  everything 
Indian — Story  of  the  book  at  Quaritch's — Value  of  the  scien- 
tific collection  at  Bagshot — An  enterprising  little  German 
boy — Field-Marshal  Count  von  Moltke — Interest  of  the 
Prince-General  in  his  command — H.R.H.'s  happy  manner 
with  the  native  officers — Our  visit  to  T.R.H.  at  Meerut  and 
later  at  Bagshot — The  American  General,  Lionel  Wood,  on 
the  Royal  General  and  his  knowledge — Pleasant  days  on 
the  Naini-Tal  hilltop — Mai-trank  on  the  mountain-side — My 
camp  clerk  on  the  hills — Sir  Seymour  FitzGerald  on  terrors 
of  the  Indian  climate — Neues  Palais  at  Potsdam — Am  sent 
by  the  German  Crown  Prince  to  his  surgeon,  who  orders  a 
Carlsbad  cure — Functions  in  India  in  my  time — Visit  of  the 
Prince  of  Wales — Badmashes  invited  to  garden-party  in  the 


xviii  CONTENTS 

jail  —  My  Bombay  University  gown  —  Effect  at  the  levee 
— Political  uniform — My  bearer's  mistaken  views  regarding 
breeches — The  Imperial  assemblage  at  Delhi  in  1877 — 
Additional  Private  Secretary  to  Lord  Lytton — His  amiable 
considerate  character — Increase  of  salutes  to  native  princes 
— A  Jemadar  improves  the  occasion — A  soldier's  view  of  the 
herald — The  Delhi  medal — Sir  Ashley  Eden's  reading  of  the 
legend — The  grand  manoeuvres  at  Delhi,  1888 — Command 
there  the  Volunteer  Brigade — Substitute  for  white  helmets — 
Durzis  invited  to  an  evening  party — Torrential  rain  at  Review 
— My  wife's  arrangements  for  drying  the  uniforms  of  the  corps 
— Eminent  success — American  officers  at  the  manoeuvres — 
Their  cheery  humour — Great  durbar  to  the  Ameer  at  Rawul- 
Pindi — Am  appointed  Honorary  Aide-de-Camp  to  Sir  Donald 
Stewart,  Commander-in-Chief — Rain,  rain  ! — Difficulties  with 
uniform — Visit  of  T.R.H.  the  Duke  and  Duchess  of  Con- 
naught — My  mixed  uniform  exposed  ....        338 


CHAPTER    XVI. 

LATER    YEARS    IN    INDIA.       1885-I894. 

definition  of  idleness — The  Volunteers — Foreigner's  view  of 
the  wonders  of  the  East — Am  attached  to  the  Cheshire 
Regiment — Cholera  in  Allahabad — A  cholera  camp — An 
undelivered  sermon — General  Sir  Herbert  M'Pherson  on 
rifle  instruction — Command  the  Wimbledon  Team  from 
India — Difficulties  of  Volunteering — Commencement  at 
Ghazipore — Progress — Canvassing — Efforts  to  popularise 
movement — Two  corps  of  Light  Horse  and  a  battalion  of 
Infantry  raised — Scheme  of  so-called  Reserve  to  include 
stragglers — General  success — Appointed  Aide-de-Camp  to 
the  Queen  in  acknowledgment  of  efforts — Difficulty  of  ob- 
taining suitable  Adjutants — Excellence  of  the  Light  Horse 
— Volunteer  conditions  in  England  and  India  widely  different 
— The  signalling  sentry — The  Assistant  Adjutant-General's 
indignation — The  General's  personal  inquiry — Result — Ex- 
cellent services  of  Colonel  George  Fox — And  Colonel 
Holdsworth — Also  of  my  Adjutants,  Colonel  Guy  Vivian 
and  Major  Layton,  D.S.O. — End  of  my  Indian  service — 
Hearty  farewells — Ball  given  by  the  Civil  Service — Banquet 
at  Benares — Sir  John  Edge — The  Rivett-Carnac  Challenge 
Trophy  —  Government  complimentary  resolution  —  Journey 
through  the  Punjab  and  Sindh — Visit  to  the  grave  of  Sir 
Henry  Durand — Bombay — Homeward  bound    .  .  -359 


CONTENTS  XIX 

CHAPTER    XVII. 

HOME    AGAIN.       1894. 

Return  home — Marseilles — Wiesbaden — Precautions  at  the  Post 
Office — Title  of  Colonel — Count  Seckendorff — Invitation 
to  Friedrichshof — The  Empress  Frederick  —  Her  great 
ability  and  charm — Beauties  of  the  Castle — Her  Majesty's 
interest  in  India — 'Helen  Treveryan '  and  Sir  Mortimer 
Durand — "Where  is  Ghazipore?" — Her  Majesty  answers — 
Benares — A  ball  at  Benares — Mai-trank — At  Potsdam — 
The  Princess  Victoria — At  Bonn  again — The  Prince  of 
Schaumburg-Lippe  —  The  Konig-Husaren  —  The  cavalry 
exercises — The  British  education  of  the  German  Emperor— 
A  visit  to  the  Palace  of  Ballenstedt — The  Duchy  of  Anhalt 
— The  Prince  of  Anhalt-Dessau  succeeds — Relationship  to 
the  German  Emperor — His  war  services — Banquet  at  the 
Palace — Life  there — A  pleasant  week's  visit — Glorious 
weather — The  forest  and  game-preserves — Dinners  in  the 
forest — The  hat  difficulty  abroad — Royal  German  etiquette 
— Purity  and  a  head  of  hair — Suspicions  of  baldness — The 
reigning  Duke  and  his  Minister — Our  leave-taking — The 
happiness  of  others — The  much-dreaded  etiquette      .  .        378 


CHAPTER    XVIII. 

AT    HOME.       1894-1900. 

We  rent  the  old  Castle  of  Wildeck,  in  Switzerland — Difficulties  of 
an  Anglo-Indian  in  England — The  old  Hapsburg  Castle — 
The  Effinger  family — Delights  of  the  place — My  wife's 
description  of  the  birds — -A  Swiss  luncheon -party— The 
battalion  of  Rifles — Invitation — Willy  Drummond  and  the 
Raynham  trick — Consideration  and  tact  of  the  then  Prince 
of  Wales — A  successful  luncheon — On  duty  in  London  as 
a  Royal  Aide-de-Camp — The  first  Jubilee — At  Albury — In 
the  Abbey  —  Excellence  of  arrangements  —  The  German 
Crown  Prince — My  telegram— Sad  predicament — The  old 
Colonel  and  Collars — The  Diamond  Jubilee — The  crowd  at 
Hyde  Park  Corner — A  tight  corner  -  Lord  Suffield  saves 
the  situation — ■"  God  Save  the  Queen  " — The  Queen's  funeral 
— Depression  everywhere — The  enormous  crowds — Their 
excellent  behaviour — On  the  road — The  scene  at  Windsor 
— The  bluejackets — The  Queen  of  the  Seas  taken  to  her 
last  resting-place  by  her  sailors — St  George's  Chapel — St 
George's   Hall — Lord   Dufferin — Story  of  his   kindliness — 


XX  CONTENTS 

The  Coronation — A  new  charger — Joyful  expectation  of  the 
crowd  —  Disappointment  —  Arrangements  excellent  —  Lord 
Wemyss — His  popularity  with  the  crowd — His  great  ser- 
vices to  the  Empire  —  A  visit  to  Ely — Garden-party  at 
Windsor  Castle — The  four  Aides-de-Camp  on  duty  with  the 
King  —  "  Quite  Elizabethan  "  —  Advantages  of  the  Alpine 
climate  in  the  winter — Change  in  condition  in  recent  years        396 


CHAPTER    XIX. 

CONCLUSION.       1 903- 1 909. 

A  visit  to  Languedoc — The  old  Chateau  of  Castelnau — Cradle  of 
my  mother's  family — The  Marquis  de  Valfons — The  Edict 
of  Nantes  revoked — The  old  noblesse— Their  feeling  towards 
England— At  H.B.M.'s  Embassy  at  Madrid — The  Queen 
Regent  and  Infantas — Pleasant  society — "  II  Barbiere  "  at 
Madrid — The  Art  treasures — The  boars  of  Avila — Cup- 
marks — Monsgr.  Fidel  Fita — The  Royal  Academy  of  Spain 
— My  address — Am  elected  a  foreign  Member — The  Cor- 
onation Stone  —  Committee  on  it  —  Our  cup -mark  theory 
not  accepted — My  theories  regarding  ideographic  origin — 
Further  discoveries  in  Spain  and  Italy — -Search  for  place 
with  a  good  summer  and  winter  climate — The  Swiss  Alps 
in  winter — -The  "Wintere  Sportes" —  Excellent  summer 
climate — Drive  to  Rougemont — Find  an  ally  on  the  road — 
Inspect  and  buy  the  place  offhand — The  architect's  verdict 
— The  climate  in  summer,  and  sport — The  delights  of  the 
winter — Variety  of  "Wintere  Sportes  "—Pleasant  Swiss 
neighbours  —  History  of  the  place  —  Benedictine  Priory 
founded  by  the  Count  of  Gruyere  in  1074 — Government 
House  of  the  Berne  Baillis  from  1555 — Napoleon  expels 
the  Bernese — The  Burgundians  and  Allemani — Our  many 
visitors  and  friends — My  dangerous  illness — Conclusion     .        41 1 


Index 439 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


J.     H.     RIVETT-CARNAC,    BENGAL    CIVIL    SERVICE,    COLONEL 
GHAZIPORE      LIGHT      HORSE,      AND     AIDE-DE-CAMP     TO 

QUEEN    victoria        ......     Frontispiece 

"my  hildegarde  " — 1868    ......        186 


MANY    MEMORIES 


CHAPTER    I. 


PARENTAGE    AND    EARLY    LIFE. 


1838-1857. 

Birth  and  parentage — Ryvet  family  of  Suffolk — Foreign  blood — Boileau 
de  Castelnau — Grandfather,  Mr  Davis,  R.E.,  defends  the  staircase 
at  Benares — Visits  of  Mountstuart  Elphinstone  and  Lord  Hardinge 
— Life  at  Broadstairs — Charlie  Dickens — Foreign  water-cures — 
School  at  Bonn — Prince  Frederick  of  Prussia,  afterwards  German 
Emperor — Prince  of  Anhalt — Mr  Bulwer-Lytton — Our  connection 
with  Lord  Palmerston — Promised  appointment  in  Foreign  Office — 
Lord  Palmerston's  advice — Have  to  take  up  Indian  appointment — 
Haileybury — Last  term — Fall  of  Delhi — The  "  Legislator  " — Balls' 
Park  and  its  guests — United  Service  Club  and  the  Admiral's  Corner 
— Raynham- — Political  friends  —  Eartham  coterie — Lady  Palmer- 
ston's Saturday  evenings  —  Story  of  Lady  Palmerston  —  End  of 
Haileybury  —  Across  Europe  —  Leighton  at  Giotto's  Chapel — 
Tegernsee — Munich — Sir  J.  Milbanke — Baroness  Tautphceus  and 
'The  Initials' — Vienna — Birth  of  the  Crown  Prince  Rudolph — 
Lord  A.  Loftus — Austrian  review — Trieste — Eastward  ho  ! 

As  this  volume  is  to  assume  an  autobiographical  form, 
the  notes  being  linked  together  with  some  account  of  my 
life  and  movements,  it  seems  desirable  that  the  first 
chapter  should  be  prefaced  with  a  short  notice  of  my 
forbears,  which  although  not  coming  strictly  within  the 
scope  of  my  "  Memories,"  is  still  necessary  as  an  intro- 
duction to  the  subject  of  this  memoir. 

A 


2  PARENTAGE    AND    EARLY   LIFE 

I  was  born  in  Portland  Place,  London,  on  the  16th 
September  1838,  being  the  second  son  of  Admiral  John 
Rivett  -  Carnac  and  his  wife,  Maria,  daughter  of  Samuel 
Davis,  Esq.,  an  officer  of  the  Royal  Engineers,  and  a 
Fellow  of  the  Royal  Society. 

My  father  was  a  cadet  of  the  ancient  Suffolk  family  of 
Ryvet,1  members  of  which  were  for  several  hundred  years 
lords  of  many  manors  and  holders  of  large  possessions  in 
that  county.  A  copy  of  a  pedigree  in  his  handwriting, 
copied  from  the  Suffolk  Davy  Collection  in  the  MS.  De- 
partment of  the  British  Museum,  shows  him  to  have  been 
16th  in  direct  male  descent  from  Thomas  Ryvet,  who  held 
the  manor  of  Freton  and  died  in  1272.  His  descendant, 
Andrew  Revett,  purchased  in  the  reign  of  Edward  VI.  the 
manor  of  Brandeston,  and  built  there  the  Hall  which  still 
exists,  and  remained  the  seat  of  the  senior  branch  of  the 
family  for  several  hundred  years  until  it  was  sold  to  the  cele- 
brated Parliamentary  lawyer,  Mr  Charles  Austin,  in  1847. 

My  father's  branch  came  from  a  younger  brother  of  the 
above  Andrew,  from  one  Sir  Thomas  Revett  of  One-house 
Hall,  Stowmarket,  the  "  Maister  Ryvet "  who  entertained 
Queen  Elizabeth  during  one  of  her  progresses,  and  regard- 
ing whom  the  chronicler  records  that  "  Then  to  Maister 
Ryvets,  where  all  was  well,  and  Meates  liberally  spent." 
The  tradition  of  the  family  in  this  respect  appears  to  have 
been  well  maintained  in  the  county  throughout  several  suc- 
ceeding generations,  at  the  expense  of  many  manors  and 
broad  acres,  until,  at  last,  Brandeston  Hall,  the  last  pos- 
session of  the  Revetts  in  Suffolk,  passed  out  of  the  family, 
as  noticed  above.  My  father  was  16th  in  direct  male 
descent  from  Thomas  Ryvet  of  Freton,  and  8th  from  this 
Sir  Thomas  Revett  of  Stowmarket,  and  was  descended  from 
William,  the  younger  son  of  Queen  Elizabeth's  host.  The 
elder  son,  Sir  Thomas,  who,  like  his  father,  was  knighted, 
and   was   a   man   of  large   possessions   in    Suffolk    and   the 

1  The  name  is  to  be  found  spelt  in  a  variety  of  ways,  spelling  not  being  included 
in  ancient  times  among  the  exact  sciences. 


RYVET   FAMILY    OF   SUFFOLK  3 

adjoining  county  of  Cambridge,  his  chief  seat  being  at 
Chippenham,  near  Newmarket,  married  Griselda,  daughter 
of  Lord  Paget  of  Beaudesert,  K.G.,  ancestor  of  the  present 
Marquis  of  Anglesey.  As  Sir  Thomas  Revett  left  no  son, 
his  large  possessions  in  Suffolk,  Wales,  and  elsewhere  went 
to  his  two  daughters  and  co-heiresses,  one  of  whom,  Alice, 
married  Sir  Thomas  Gerard ;  the  other,  Anne,  the  fifth 
Lord  Windsor,  ancestor  of  the  present  Earl  of  Plymouth. 
Thus  many  of  the  Suffolk  manors  passed  out  of  the 
Revett  family. 

My  father's  grandfather,  whose  family  had  settled  in 
Derby,  was  Thomas  Revett,  who  in  1715  was  Mayor  of 
Derby  and  Member  for  that  borough.  His  son,  also  a 
Thomas  Revett,  represented  the  borough  in  Parliament, 
and  was  High  Sheriff  of  the  county  in  1745,  the  contest 
at  Derby  creating  some  excitement  at  the  time,  as  described 
by  Horace  Walpole  in  one  of  his  letters.  But  elections  and 
other  Revett  extravagances  must  have  told  heavily  on  his 
resources,  for,  on  his  death,  Mapleton  Hall,  the  seat  of  the 
family,  had  to  be  sold,  and  the  eldest  son  migrated  to 
Lymington,  in  Hampshire.  My  grandfather,  James,  a 
younger  son,  appears  to  have  tried  his  fortunes  in  India, 
and  entering  the  Bombay  Civil  Service,  rose  there  to  be 
Member  of  Council  and  acting  Governor  of  the  Presidency. 
His  sister,  Elizabeth,  had  married  General  Carnac,  M.P., 
at  one  time  Commander-in-Chief  in  India.  The  General, 
of  a  noble  French  family  of  emigres,  had  sat  in  Parliament 
with  the  lady's  father,  and  marrying  the  daughter,  probably 
persuaded  the  brother  to  try  his  fortunes  in  India,  then 
unknown  ground  to  the  family.  The  General  and  his  wife 
(the  latter  of  whom  is  known  by  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds' 
celebrated  portrait  of  "  Mrs  Carnac ")  having  no  children, 
the  General  left  his  property  to  his  brother-in-law,  Mr 
James  Rivett,  my  father's  father,  on  the  condition  that 
he  assumed  the  surname  and  arms  of  Carnac.  The  neces- 
sary permission  having  been  accorded  by  sign-manual  in 
1 801,  this  branch  of  the  Rivett  family  henceforth  came  to 


4  PARENTAGE   AND    EARLY   LIFE 

be  known  by  the  name  of  "  Rivett-Carnac,"  although  they 
are  Rivetts,  with  no  drop  of  the  blood  of  Carnac  in  their 
veins.  My  grandfather,  Mr  Rivett-Carnac,  acting  Governor 
of  Bombay,  died  in  1802,  leaving  by  his  wife,  Harriet, 
daughter  of  J.  Fisher,  Esq.,  "  Beau  Fisher,"  of  Great  Yar- 
mouth, several  sons,  of  whom  Sir  James  Rivett-Carnac, 
Bart.,  M.P.,  was  Chairman  of  the  East  India  Company, 
Member  for  Sandwich,  and,  like  his  father,  Governor  of 
Bombay.  My  father,  Admiral  Rivett  -  Carnac,  already 
noticed,  was  the  youngest  son. 

In  the  meantime,  all  the  other  branches  of  the  family 
having  died  out,  my  cousin,  the  present  baronet,  Sir  Claud 
Rivett  -  Carnac,  who  is  19th  in  direct  male  descent  from 
Thomas  Ryvet  of  Freton,  is  now  the  representative  of  the 
ancient  Ryvet  family  of  Suffolk.  A  small  foothold  in  the 
county  has  recently  been  recovered  by  me  by  the  acquisi- 
tion of  the  manor  of  Stanstead  Hall,  which  was  long  in 
the  Rivett  family,  so  that  there  is  still  a  Rivett,  lord  of 
a  manor,  in  the  county  of  Suffolk. 

My  mother's  father,  Mr  S.  Davis,  was  a  man  of  some 
distinction.  The  son  of  a  military  officer  who  died  on  duty 
in  the  West  Indies,  he  entered  the  Royal  Engineers,  and 
serving  in  India  was  appointed  an  aide-de-camp  to  the 
Commander-in-Chief  there.  Being  an  excellent  artist,  he 
was  attached  to  Turner's  Mission  to  Thibet  in  1783,  and, 
among  other  sketches,  brought  back  with  him  a  plan  of 
the  "  canterlever "  bridge  used  in  that  country.  I  first 
heard  of  this  through  an  article  published  at  the  time  of 
the  opening  of  the  Tay  Bridge,  when  the  discovery  of  this 
particular  class  of  bridge  was  credited  to  my  grandfather, 
who  was  described  as  a  lieutenant  in  the  Royal  Navy, 
instead  of  the  Royal  Engineers.  For  his  services  he  was 
promoted,  after  the  manner  of  the  times,  to  a  place  in  the 
civil  administration,  and  the  year  1799  found  him  Magistrate 
of  the  important  district  of  Benares.  My  grandfather  had 
a  taste  for  astronomy,  and  his  published  papers  on  the 
subject,   which    are   understood   to   have    still   considerable 


DE    BOILEAU    FAMILY   OF   CASTELNAU  5 

interest,  secured  for  him  at  an  early  age  the  Fellowship 
of  the  Royal  Society,  an  honour  in  those  days  unknown 
to  officers  serving  in  India.  On  the  roof  of  his  house  at 
Benares,  the  well-known  Nandesur  House  there,  where  His 
Highness  the  present  Maharajah  entertains  royalties,  vice- 
roys, and  other  distinguished  guests,  he  had  erected  his 
big  astronomical  telescope,  and  this  could  only  be  reached 
by  a  narrow  winding  staircase  with  barely  room  for  one 
person  to  pass  at  a  time. 

This  staircase  my  grandfather  valiantly  defended  with  a 
spear  when  Vizier  Ali  in  1799,  having  massacred  Mr  Cherry 
the  Resident  and  most  of  the  British  inhabitants  of  Benares, 
attacked  the  house.  He  not  only  saved  the  lives  of  his 
wife  and  child,  but  by  keeping  the  enemy  occupied  until 
the  troops  came  up,  was  thus  the  means  of  saving  also 
the  lives  of  the  other  European  residents  who  had  escaped 
the  general  massacre. 

In  those  days  the  Pagoda  Tree  must  have  borne  abundant 
quantities  of  fruit,  for  my  grandfather  retired  with  a  fortune 
from  India,  was  Chairman  of  the  East  India  Company,  wrote 
the  celebrated  "  Fifth  Report,"  and  died  at  the  comparatively 
early  age  of  fifty-two. 

Mr  Davis  married  a  daughter  of  Mr  S.  Boileau,  of  the 
ancient  noble  French  family  Barons  of  Castelnau  and  St 
Croix  de  Boriac,  in  Languedoc,  whose  name  is  well  known 
in  the  history  of  the  Huguenot  struggle  in  France.  My 
ancestor,  the  head  of  the  family,  renouncing  his  titles  and 
possessions  in  favour  of  his  younger  brother,  who  remained 
Catholic,  emigrated  to  England,  where  the  family  is  now 
represented  by  my  kinsman,  Sir  Maurice  Boileau,  Bart.,  of 
Ketteringham  Park,  Norfolk.  The  historical  old  Castle  of 
Castelnau,  built  by  the  Boileaus  in  the  fourteenth  century, 
is  still  in  excellent  preservation,  and  in  possession  of  one  of 
the  family,  the  present  Marquis  de  Valfons,  who  keeps  up 
the  most  affectionate  relations  with  the  British  branch  of 
the  Boileaus,  and  has  ever  a  warm  welcome  for  us  whenever 
we  pass  into  Languedoc. 


6  PARENTAGE    AND    EARLY    LIFE 

My  earliest  recollections  are  associated  with  what  always 
seemed  to  me  the  vast  expanse  of  Portland  Place,  the  gardens 
at  the  park  end  of  the  street,  and  the  daily  appearance  of  the 
detachment  of  the  Life  Guards,  which  passed  down  from  the 
barracks  to  the  palace.  There  must  have  been  in  those  days 
a  distinctly  Eastern  flavour  about  Portland  Place,  not  unlike 
that  which  now  pervades  certain  portions  of  South  Kensing- 
ton. For  besides  my  grandmother,  the  widow  of  Mr  Davis, 
there  lived  hard  by,  on  different  sides  of  the  broad  street,  two 
of  her  sisters,  married  to  Directors  of  the  East  India  Com- 
pany, and  also  several  other  Eastern  magnates  with  whom 
we  were  on  intimate  terms.  And  I  retain  a  vivid  remembrance 
of  a  grim  old  great-uncle,  whom  I  was  periodically  dragged 
most  unwillingly  to  see,  who  gave  me  much  good  advice,  but 
never  a  single  tip,  and  who  lived  in  a  big  house,  at  the  corner, 
half-way  down  Portland  Place.  In  this  same  house  I  was 
more  recently  the  guest  of  a  very  different  personality,  Field- 
Marshal  Earl  Roberts,  who  never  forgets  those  who  have 
served  with  him  in  India  or  elsewhere,  and  whose  cheery 
presence  had  effectually  exorcised  the  spectre  of  the  grim 
old  Indian  nabob  of  some  sixty  years  before. 

In  the  corner  of  my  grandmother's  drawing  -  room  in 
Portland  Place  was  the  spear  with  which  her  husband  had 
defended  the  staircase  at  Benares,  and  in  that  room,  when 
I  was  a  child,  I  saw  several  distinguished  persons,  whose 
importance  was  hardly  realised  by  me  at  the  time.  But  I 
remember  well  the  stately  figure  of  Mountstuart  Elphinstone, 
one  of  the  most  distinguished  members  of  the  great  service 
which  I  was  later  to  enter.  He  would  come  at  least  once 
a-year  "to  do  poojah  to  the  spear,"1  as  he  used  to  call  it. 
Another  great  occasion  is  impressed  on  my  memory,  when, 
clad  in  our  Sunday  clothes,  and  with  our  hair  specially 
brushed  up  for  the  occasion,  my  brother  and  I  were  placed 

1  My  grandfather  left  two  sons,  the  late  Sir  J.  F.  Davis,  Bart.,  K.C. B.,  formerly 
Minister  Plenipotentiary  in  China,  who  took  the  spear  to  his  place,  Hollywood 
Tower,  near  Bristol,  and  Colonel  S.  Davis,  commanding  the  52nd  Oxfordshire 
Light  Infantry. 


LORD    HARDINGE    AND    LITTLE    ARTHUR  7 

on  the  landing  to  see  pass  Lord  Hardinge,  the  Governor- 
General,  who  with  his  son  "  Little  Arthur  "  soon  after  his 
return  from  India  paid  a  visit  to  my  grandmother.  The 
great  man  patted  us  both  on  the  head,  and  we  graciously 
informed  him  that  we  purposed  following  his  excellent 
example  and  becoming  soldiers.  My  brother  duly  carried 
out  his  promise,  and  in  later  years,  when  colonel  in  the  nth 
(Prince  Consort's  Own)  Hussars,  was  Military  Secretary  to 
this  same  "Little  Arthur  "  when  General  Sir  Arthur  Hardinge 
was  Commander-in-Chief  in  Bombay.  Unfortunately  I  never 
succeeded  in  getting  further  than  to  be  an  officer  of  Volunteers, 
but  as  such  I  had  the  honour  of  serving  as  an  Aide-de-Camp 
to  her  Majesty  Queen  Victoria,  and  also  to  his  Majesty  King 
Edward  VII.  I  also  acted  for  a  short  time  as  an  aide-de- 
camp to  Field-Marshal  Sir  Donald  Stewart  when  he  was 
Commander-in-Chief  in  India,  and  accompanied  him  to 
Rawul-Pindi  on  the  occasion  of  the  visit  of  the  Amir  of 
Afghanistan  to  India.  I  also  commanded  the  Volunteer 
brigade  at  the  great  manoeuvres  at  Delhi  in  1886. 

Besides  his  town  house,  my  father  had  a  seaside  residence 
at  Broadstairs,  near  Sandwich,  for  which  his  brother  was 
Member.  In  those  days  Broadstairs  was  not  so  accessible  as 
now,  and  was  a  quiet  little  place,  not  without  some  preten- 
sions to  fashion,  as  the  Duchess  of  Kent  and  the  Princess 
Victoria  had  more  than  once  honoured  it  with  their  presence. 
There,  when  not  travelling  abroad,  we  spent  the  summer,  and 
there  we  boys  learnt  to  swim,  to  record  the  movements  of  the 
barometer  and  thermometer,  and  with  my  father's  sea-glasses 
to  watch  the  Goodwin  Sands,  where,  alas !  during  our  days 
of  duty,  we  had  to  report  more  than  one  sad  shipwreck.  And 
here,  after  a  series  of  pitched  battles,  in  which  I  was  ignomini- 
ously  worsted,  I  swore  eternal  friendship  to  Charlie  Dickens, 
whom  I  was  later,  after  his  father's  death,  to  see  much  of  at 
Gadshill  and  in  London. 

My  father,  an  amiable  man,  save  when  the  gout  was  upon 
him,  had  brought  ashore  with  him  much  of  the  discipline  and 
some  of  the  language  of  the  quarter-deck.     We  always  called 


8  PARENTAGE    AND    EARLY    LIFE 

him  "  Sir,"  and  gave  him  a  wide  berth  when  my  mother 
hoisted  the  storm-signals  of  gout.  On  some  points  he  was 
particular,  and  two  rules  had  to  be  scrupulously  observed  : 
punctual  attendance  at  morning  prayers,  which  were  short 
and  to  the  point ;  and  full-dress  at  all  meals,  which  latter 
regulation  was  unpopular,  as  it  necessitated  leaving  off  our 
games  earlier  than  other  children,  so  as  to  rig  ourselves  out 
according  to  regulation.  He  was  an  eminently  God-fearing 
man,  and  exemplary  in  all  the  relations  of  life.  But  the 
custom  of  those  days,  among  sailors  at  least,  recognised  the 
employment  of  certain  expressions  that  are  hardly  con- 
sidered Parliamentary  in  these  times.  I  am  sure  that  he 
intended  no  harm  in  it,  but  an  exceedingly  respectable  old 
lady  staying  in  the  house  was,  it  was  related,  much  scandal- 
ised on  hearing  the  Admiral  one  morning  hailing  the  ship's 
company  in  the  nursery  and  schoolroom  with  "  Why  the 
Hell  don't  you  all  come  down  to  prayers  " !  !  ! 

Frequent  attacks  of  gout  obliged  my  father  to  try  many  of 
the  Continental  springs,  believed  to  be  cures  for  the  disease, 
and,  as  children,  we  generally  accompanied  our  parents  on 
their  Continental  trips.  In  this  way  I  began  early  to  pick  up 
foreign  languages,  the  knowledge  of  which  has  remained  to 
me  as  a  pleasure  and  advantage  all  my  life.  And  I  imbibed 
a  taste  for  foreign  travel,  and  acquired  a  fancy  for  Continental 
life  which  I  have  never  been  able  entirely  to  shake  off. 

After  exhausting  such  well-known  "  cures  "  as  Homburg, 
Wiesbaden,  and  elsewhere,  my  father  tried  other  baths  farther 
afield,  and  one  year  we  made  for  Loeche  les  Bains,  or  Leuker- 
bad,  in  the  Rhone  Valley,  not  then  as  well  known  or  accessible 
as  now.  We  went  as  far  as  Dijon  by  railway,  the  terminus  in 
those  days.  For  the  rest  of  the  journey  we  had  brought  with 
us  a  great  lumbering  travelling-carriage  with  roof-seats  and  a 
rumble.  In  this  carriage  we  all  sat  in  state  during  the  railway 
journey,  our  coach  being  mounted  on  a  truck.  From  Dijon 
we  lumbered  along  with  post-horses  over  the  Jura  into 
Switzerland,  a  goodly  party  in  that  coach,  as  besides  my 
father,  mother,  and  sister  in  the  body  of  the  coach,  there 


IN    FOREIGN    PARTS 


were  in  the  rumble  my  father's  man  and  a  maid-servant, 
whilst  we  boys  occupied  the  roof-seats.  I  remember  distinctly 
the  first  splendid  view  of  the  Alps  from  Neuchatel,  and  the 
delights  of  swinging  along  the  mountain  roads  in  our  lumber- 
ing vehicle,  on  the  top  of  which  we  boys  passed  most  of  the 
time.  At  Loeche  I  learnt  the  system  of  small  tables  for 
breakfast,  reading,  &c,  useful  during  the  many  hours  the 
patients  have  to  sit  in  the  bath  with  water  up  to  their  necks, 
and  I  attempted  later  to  introduce  the  system  when  hearing 
settlement  appeals  in  the  Chanda  district  in  India,  where 
there  was  a  large  swimming-bath  attached  to  my  office.  An 
artist  who  was  present  at  one  of  these  sittings  sent  a  sketch 
of  it  to  the  Indian  '  Punch,'  and  the  method  being  discussed 
rather  too  nakedly  in  the  newspapers  I  received  a  hint  to 
abolish  the  system. 

At  different  times  our  travels  extended  into  Italy  and  the 
Tyrol,  and  we  found  many  friends  in  the  Legations,  with 
which,  in  those  days,  Europe  was  more  liberally  equipped 
than  now.  A  first-cousin  of  my  mother's1  had  married  a 
sister  of  Lord  Palmerston's,  and  as  this  was  a  name  to 
conjure  with  in  the  Foreign  Office,  whether  at  home  or 
abroad,  we  were  sure  of  a  welcome  in  these  Continental 
capitals,  which  were  not  so  overrun  as  now  by  the  travelling 
Briton  and  his  belongings. 

Returning  home  late  one  summer  by  way  of  the  Rhine, 
my  younger  brother,  on  our  arrival  at  Bonn,  developed 
scarlet  fever.  The  whole  party  had  to  go  into  quarantine, 
and  we  were  detained  abroad  long  after  the  reopening  of  the 
school  in  England  which  my  brother  and  I  had  only  lately 
joined. 

My  father  determined  then  to  leave  us  both  at  Bonn  at 
a  school  kept  by  an  Englishman,  and  where  some  thirty 
British  boys  were  supposed  to  acquire  rapidly  and  accurately 
the  German  language,  and  an  exceptional  pronunciation,  by 
always  employing  that  tongue  in  their  intercourse  with  one 
another,   whether    in   the   schoolroom   or    the    playground. 

1  The  Rt.  Hon.  Lawrence  Sulivan,  Under-Secretary  of  State  for  War. 


10  PARENTAGE   AND   EARLY   LIFE 

And  the  order  was  so  far  carried  out  implicitly  by  us  at 
football  and  other  games,  when  the  choicest  Teutonic  ex- 
pressions of  displeasure  and  contempt  were  scrupulously 
employed  in  the  loudest  of  voices.  But  we  certainly  did 
get  to  learn  German  somehow  or  other.  And  I  acquired  a 
real  liking  for  Germany  and  the  Germans,  which  I  hope  to 
carry  with  me  to  my  grave.  In  those  days,  certainly,  they 
were  the  most  kindly  and  considerate  people,  always  tolerant 
of  our  boyish  tricks,  and  good-natured  and  cheery  to  a  degree. 
And  the  beautiful  country  round  Bonn,  the  abundant  fruit, 
and  the  cheap  music  at  the  opera-house  were  a  never-failing 
source  of  delight. 

My  father  happened  to  know  the  German  General  Fischer, 
the  Governor  of  Prince  Frederick  William  of  Prussia,  who 
with  his  cousin,  the  Prince  of  Anhalt,  had  just  joined  the 
University  at  Bonn.  When  we  were  at  school,  the  Prince, 
who  was  later  to  be  known  as  the  German  Crown  Prince, 
and  then  as  the  Emperor  Frederick,  would  very  kindly  call 
for  us  in  his  four-in-hand  and  take  us  to  picnics  at  Heister- 
bach  and  Rolandseck,  we  talking  English  to  him  during  the 
excursions.  This  kindness  was  extended  to  my  brother  and 
myself  both  by  H.R.H.  and  the  Empress  Frederick  through- 
out future  years  until  their  lamented  deaths,  and  whenever 
we  were  in  Germany  we  were  invariably  invited  to  the  Neues 
Palais  or  elsewhere,  and  were  allowed  to  keep  up  a  corres- 
pondence with  H.R.H.  during  the  greater  part  of  the  time 
we  were  in  India.  In  the  same  manner  the  Prince  of  Anhalt, 
who  afterwards  became  reigning  Duke  of  the  Principality, 
continued  to  us  both  the  greatest  consideration  and  friend- 
ship. In  a  later  chapter  I  hope  to  give  some  account  of  a 
week's  visit  paid  by  my  wife  and  myself  to  this  hospitable 
and  delightful  little  German  Court. 

Not  far  from  our  school  at  Bonn,  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  down  the  Coblentzer  Strasse,  was  the  villa  of  Dr  Perry, 
a  very  able  man,  who  coached  candidates  for  the  diplomatic 
service.  The  students  at  the  Bonn  University,  as  is  well 
known,  mostly  belong  to  clubs,  and  wear  distinctive  caps  as 


AT    SCHOOL    AT   BONN  II 

members  of  those  clubs.  Prince  Frederick  of  Prussia,  the 
Prince  of  Anhalt,  and  the  cream  of  the  students,  all  belonged 
to  the  Burussia,  or  were  "  White  Caps  "  as  they  were  called. 
The  young  Englishmen  at  Perry's,  not  to  be  outdone,  in- 
stituted a  distinctive  British  cap,  of  a  good-way-after  the 
manner  of  the  cap  worn  in  those  days  by  officers  of  the 
Guards — that  is,  with  a  peak  with  an  embroidered  gold  rim, 
similar  somewhat  to  that  which  the  guard  of  a  train  now 
affects.  At  one  time  my  ambition  was  to  grow  up  sufficiently 
to  be  admitted  to  the  wearing  of  this  cap,  but  I  left  Bonn 
before  I  was  out  of  jackets,  and  never  attained  the  coveted 
distinction.  The  great  mind  that  invented  this  cap  for  the 
British  young  men  at  Bonn  was  that  of  Mr  Bulwer-Lytton, 
who  was  then  preparing  for  the  Foreign  Office.  He  was 
invariably  gracious  to  me,  when  I  occasionally  met  him 
with  his  gold  cap  on  the  road,  and  I  was  not  to  see  him 
again  until  years  afterwards,  when  he  was  sworn  in  at 
Calcutta  as  Viceroy  of  India.  He  showed  me  many  kind- 
nesses, often  talked  over  Bonn  days,  and  was  much  amused 
at  my  remembering  his  cap  invention.  During  the  cere- 
monies connected  with  the  Proclamation  of  the  Queen  as 
Empress  of  India  at  Delhi  in  1878,  he  appointed  me  to 
be  his  additional  Private  Secretary,  and  I  had  many  oppor- 
tunities of  realising  his  great  ability  and  appreciating  his 
marked  consideration  to  all  who  were  brought  in  contact 
with  him. 

Much  as  I  loved  Bonn,  I  have  always  regretted  that  I 
never  had  the  advantage  enjoyed  by  most  of  my  male  rela- 
tions, of  being  at  Harrow  or  some  other  public  school.  I 
have  a  great  belief  in  the  advantage  to  a  boy  of  passing 
some  time  on  the  Continent,  and,  by  seeing  foreign  parts, 
getting  his  views  enlarged,  besides  learning  foreign  languages. 
But  nothing  can  make  up  to  any  British  boy  for  the  loss 
of  the  training  and  discipline  of  a  public  school ;  and  the 
foreign  visit  should  be  deferred  until  he  has  been  well  licked 
into  shape  on  his  native  territory,  and  has  taken  in  sufficient 
ballast  to  steady  him  throughout  his  future  career.     Abroad 


12  PARENTAGE   AND   EARLY    LIFE 

I  certainly  enjoyed  myself  hugely,  picked  up  a  knowledge 
of  many  things  that  were  not  in  the  least  practical,  imbibed 
a  taste  for  music  and  a  smattering  of  some  of  the  arts,  was 
prematurely  forced,  grew  impatient  and  unstable,  and  failed 
to  acquire  the  calm  temper  and  sound  judgment  that  I  ad- 
mired, and  which  made  for  the  success  of  some  of  my  more 
fortunate  contemporaries. 

I  returned  home  in  due  course  with  a  fairly  good  know- 
ledge of  German,  French,  and  Italian,  and  a  pronounced 
taste  for  music,  Mai-trank,1  open-air  meals,  and  Continental 
life.  When  the  question  of  our  careers  came  under  discus- 
sion, my  younger  brother,  in  accordance  with  his  promise 
to  Lord  Hardinge,  announced  his  intention  of  being  a  soldier, 
but  was  overruled  in  favour  of  an  Indian  writership.  I  also 
had  leanings  in  a  military  direction,  but  I  had  been  very 
much  taken  with  the  blue-and-gold  coats  of  the  attaches  I 
had  seen  abroad,  and  I  begged  for  a  diplomatic  career, 
which  promised  to  take  me  back  to  music,  Germany,  and 
Mai-trank.  As  already  mentioned,  a  relation  of  my  mother's 
being  married  to  Lord  Palmerston's  sister,  we  had  some 
interest  in  the  Foreign  Office;  and  another  cousin,  Sir  John 
Peter  Boileau,  having  married  Lady  Catherine  Elliot,  a 
daughter  of  Lord  Minto's,  and  the  aunt  of  Lady  John 
Russell,  some  of  the  valuable  Elliot-Russell  interest  might 
be  hoped  for.  Lord  Palmerston,  whom  I  saw  occasionally 
later,  when  he  would  ride  down  of  an  afternoon  to  the 
Sulivan's  beautiful  place,  Broom  House,  at  Fulham,  promised 
the  necessary  nomination,  and  I  commenced  to  dream  of  the 
blue-and-gold  coat,  and  of  European  capitals,  and  regular 
attendance  at  the  opera-house. 

The  cheery  old  Lord  Palmerston,  too,  helped  to  encourage 
me  in  my  ambition,  when  I  occasionally  met  him  at  Broom 
House,  and  I  remember  well  his  advice  to  me,  when  the 
great  man  had  been  reminded  that  I  was  a  candidate  for 
diplomatic  honours,  and  that  I  was  on  the  list  for  a  nomina- 
tion.     "  Practise   writing   a   legible   hand,"    said   he,    "  and 

1  A  glorified  species  of  hock-cup. 


TAKE    UP    AN    INDIAN    APPOINTMENT  13 

remember,  never  stick  your  despatches  together  with  pins." 
I  fear  me  that  I  did  not  sufficiently  take  to  heart  the  first 
part  of  this  excellent  advice,  for,  as  will  be  noticed  later, 
Lord  Canning,  when  I  was  an  Under-Secretary  in  India, 
had  occasion  to  complain  of  the  illegibility  of  my  notes. 
But  these  diplomatic  dreams  were  not  to  last  very  long. 
One  morning  it  was  announced  that  the  Government  had 
determined  that,  after  a  certain  date,  the  appointments  in 
the  Indian  Civil  Service  were  to  be  thrown  open  to  com- 
petition. Now  my  father,  having  several  relations  on  the 
Court  of  Directors,  had  secured  two  Indian  Civil  Service 
appointments  or  "  writerships,"  which  in  those  days  were 
regarded  as  valuable  assets  to  any  one  who  had  several 
sons  on  his  hands. 

The  last  examination  for  entrance  to  Haileybury  was  fixed 
for  the  end  of  1855.  On  that  date  I  should  have  just  reached 
my  seventeenth  year,  the  lowest  age -limit  for  admission  to 
the  Indian  Civil  Service.  My  two  brothers,  for  whom  these 
two  appointments  had  been  destined,  were  both  too  young, 
and  could  not  possibly  take  them  up.  I  might  just  be  able 
to  save  one  of  these  appointments  to  the  family.  So  my 
diplomatic  hopes  were  shattered.  I  had  to  commence  at 
once  to  prepare  for  the  Haileybury  examination.  My  younger 
brother  had  his  desire,  and  was  to  become  a  cavalry  officer, 
whilst  the  Foreign  Office  nomination  was  to  be  reserved  for 
my  youngest  brother,  then  just  preparing  for  Harrow.  The 
months  that  followed  were  to  me  far  from  pleasant.  The 
entrance  examination  for  Haileybury  was,  perhaps,  not  really 
severe.  But  I  had  not  very  long  to  prepare  for  the  ordeal. 
My  knowledge  of  French,  German,  and  Italian  all  went  for 
nothing,  not  being  included  in  the  examination  subjects. 
High  marks  were  necessary  in  Latin,  Greek,  and  mathe- 
matics, the  two  former  of  which  had  not  received  much 
attention  at  a  foreign  school,  whilst  my  mathematics  had 
been  limited  to  certain  very  simple  sums.  During  those 
days  there  was  always  staring  me  in  the  face  the  alarming 
fact  that,  if  I  failed  in  the  examination,  this  valuable  Indian 


14  PARENTAGE    AND    EARLY   LIFE 

Civil  appointment  would  be  entirely  lost  to  the  family.  This 
dread  gave  me  many  sleepless  nights ;  and  even  now  in  my 
old  age,  when  a  nightmare  does  visit  me,  it  is  not  in  the 
shape  of  the  ferocious  tigers  and  merciless  snakes  with  which 
my  foreign  friends  firmly  believe  I  was  ever  surrounded 
during  my  residence  in  India  at  Calcutta,  Simlah,  and  other 
civilised  centres,  but  the  visit  assumes  the  form  of  the 
examination  fiend,  who  pronounces  me  unprepared  for  the 
impending  ordeal  and  exaggerates  the  loss  that  my  failure 
will  cause  to  my  unfortunate  family.  But,  thanks  to  the 
exertions  of  dear  old  Tom  Dillon,  a  master  at  Dr  Greig's 
Walthamstow  school  where  I  then  was,  I  managed  to  pass 
the  examination  which  was  held  at  the  India  Office  during 
three  dreary  days  of  the  winter  of  1855.  Early  the  next 
year  saw  me  at  Haileybury  College,  promoted,  so  I  believed, 
to  the  status  of  a  man,  with  a  tail-coat,  my  own  rooms  and 
allowance,  and  my  own  cellar  (ensconced  beneath  the  window- 
seat  of  my  sitting-room). 

The  two  years  at  Haileybury  passed  pleasantly  enough. 
I  fear  I  never  attempted  to  do  more  than  keep  a  comfortable 
place  in  the  lower  half  of  my  term.  My  want  of  classical 
knowledge,  of  mathematics,  and  other  subjects  taught  at 
British  public  schools,  was  against  me.  Though  I  was  fond 
of  European  languages,  I  did  not  take  readily  to  Sanscrit 
and  Persian,  and  never  attempted  to  do  more  than  just 
scrape  through  the  examination.  And  I  might  have  failed 
even  in  this,  had  it  not  been  for  dear  old  Bernard,  a  college 
friend  to  be  noticed  later,  the  guardian-angel  of  all  the  idlers, 
who  came  round  to  us  regularly  towards  the  end  of  the 
term  and  insisted  on  coaching  us  up  in  Sanscrit  and  other 
unknown  tongues,  and  thus  saving  our  appointments  by 
securing  for  us  just  a  scrape  through  and  "  pass." 

The  last  term  at  Haileybury  was  a  large  one,  and  con- 
tained some  men  older  than  the  ordinary  run  of  the  students, 
who  were  generally  admitted  at  seventeen.  Thus  we  had 
Jack  Burney,  a  collateral  of  Madame  D'Arblay's,  who  had 
been  captain  of  Winchester  before  he  went  to  Balliol,  from 


AT    HAILEYBURY  15 

which  he  was  brought  to  take  up  the  nomination  of  one 
who,  like  my  brother,  lost  the  appointment  by  being  under 
age.  Then  there  was  Charles  Grant,  a  nephew  of  Lord 
Glenelg's,  who,  having  passed  through  Harrow  and  Trinity, 
Cambridge,  came  to  Haileybury  after  having  served  a  year 
in  one  of  the  Government  offices.  These  two  soon  took  the 
lead  among  the  young  "  Freshmen,"  and  established  a  club 
in  continuation  of  the  "  Wellesley  Club,"  which  had  long 
existed  at  the  college.  This  club,  which  was  considered  to  be 
very  exclusive  and  select,  consisted  of  twelve  members,  who 
held  closely  together  during  their  two  years  in  college  and 
carried  along  the  bond  during  their  later  service  in  India. 
I  was  proud  to  be  admitted  to  the  club,  and  it  certainly 
brought  with  it  friendships  which  lasted  during  life  and 
which  I  most  highly  valued.  Alas  !  of  the  members  who 
were  at  Haileybury,  the  only  two  survivors  are  "  Billy  "  Lyall 1 
and  myself.  And  that  staunch  and  valued  old  friend,  from 
whom  I  heard  only  a  few  days  ago  under  the  signature  of 
"Yours  in  the  Bond,"  was  ever  ready  in  his  high  position 
in  India  to  assist  and  support  his  old  friends  of  the  club, 
and  to  receive  them  most  hospitably  at  Government  House 
and  elsewhere  in  remembrance  of  old  Haileybury  days.  It 
is  somewhat  remarkable  that  out  of  the  twelve  members  of 
our  club  three  only  reached  their  seventieth  year.  Nugent 
Daniell  died  only  a  few  months  ago,  having  barely  reached 
that  limit.  Frank  Wyllie,  who,  together  with  Daniell  and 
Lyall,  was  of  my  most  intimate  friends,  died  a  year  be- 
fore he  reached  that  age.  Lyall  and  I  passed  it  just  a 
year  ago.  The  other  members  dropped  off  from  time  to 
time,  and  few  of  them  reached  their  sixtieth  year.  In  the 
face  of  the  great  age  sometimes  attained  by  India  annuit- 
ants, the  early  death  of  my  contemporaries  appears  some- 
what exceptional. 

The  "last"  term  received  one  or  two  distinguished  recruits 

1  Sir  James  B.  Lyall,  G.C.I. E.,  K. C.S.I,  (brother  of  Sir  Alfred  Lyall),  formerly 
Lieutenant-Governor  of  the  Punjab.  At  Haileybury  he  was  always  known  as 
Billy,  presumably  because  his  name  was  James. 


l6  PARENTAGE   AND    EARLY    LIFE 

in  the  person  of  some  selected  candidates  who  were  chosen 
to  fill  the  places  of  half  a  dozen  unfortunates  who  had  failed 
to  pass  the  entrance  examination,  and  to  whom  the  valuable 
appointments  were  thus  lost.  Bernard,  who  was  heading  his 
term  at  Addiscombe,  and  Hutchins,  who  had  run  a  distin- 
guished course  at  Merchant  Taylors'  School,  were  two  of 
those  selected  to  fill  the  vacancies,  and  regarding  whose 
passing  there  could  be  little  doubt.  Bernard,1  who  thus 
gave  up  his  military  career,  and  of  whom  Lord  Roberts 
subsequently  remarked,  "  A  splendid  soldier  lost  to  the  ser- 
vice," was  to  be  during  the  rest  of  his  life  one  of  my  closest 
and  most  valued  friends,  and  to  whom  I  was  indebted  not 
only  for  coaching  in  "Sanscrit  roots"  just  before  impending 
college  examinations,  but  for  innumerable  instances  of  assist- 
ance and  support  during  the  distinguished  career  he  ran  in 
India.  Hutchins2  also  rose  to  high  office  in  Madras,  but 
we  seldom  met,  my  service  being  exclusively  in  the  Bengal 
Presidency. 

It  was  during  my  time  at  Haileybury  that  the  Indian 
Mutiny  broke  out,  and  connected  as  nearly  every  one  in  the 
place  was  with  that  country,  the  news  of  the  progress  of 
our  army  was  followed  by  us  all  with  intense  interest.  The 
enthusiasm  was  naturally  enormous  when  it  was  announced 
that  Ross  Mangles,  the  son  of  the  Chairman  of  the  Court  of 
Directors,  and  a  young  civilian  who  had  passed  not  so  long 
ago  out  of  college,  had  earned  the  Victoria  Cross,  a  distinc- 
tion until  then  unknown  among  civilians.  And  we  all  went 
utterly  mad  with  excitement  and  delight  when  the  news  of 
the  storming  of  Delhi  reached  us.  A  bonfire  was  lighted 
in  "  Quod,"  the  materials  of  which  were  not  confined  to 
old  boxes  and  hampers,  but  included  a  run  on  the  forms 
and  doors  and  other  available  wooden  properties  of  the 
establishment.  The  bonfire  caused  alarm  throughout  the 
countryside,  and  the  fire-engines  from  Hertford  and  else- 
where came  hurrying  up  the  hill.  The  authorities  caught 
the    enthusiasm    of   the    moment   and    did    not   attempt   to 

1  The  late  Sir  Charles  Bernard,  K.C.S.I.  2  Sir  P.  P.  Hutchins,  K. C.S.I. 


A    HAILEYBURY    PROFESSOR  1J 

interfere.  Indeed,  there  was  a  story  that  the  cheery  old 
Dean  had  been  seen  with  his  coat  off,  chopping  up  some 
of  his  old  furniture  and  pitching  it  over  the  wall  to  feed 
the  flames. 

At  Haileybury  we  had  a  number  of  eminent  Professors  who 
gave  daily  lectures,  and,  if  we  had  been  so  minded,  much 
might  have  been  learnt  on  a  variety  of  useful  subjects.  I 
fear  that  some  of  us,  at  least,  did  not  make  the  best  of  our 
opportunities.  There  was  an  eminent  barrister  to  teach  us 
law.  We  named  him  the  "  Legislator,"  because  he  had 
the  credit  of  making  much  of  his  own  law.  We  used 
some  of  us  to  try  and  waste  time  at  his  lectures  by  pre- 
tending to  wish  to  discuss  points  in  cases  that  appeared 
in  the  newspapers,  and  relating  to  questions  of  law.  Cer- 
tainly the  result  was  that  the  lecture  subjects  occasionally 
got  somewhat  mixed.  And  probably  it  was  partly  owing 
to  this  that  an  untoward  incident  occurred  that  has  re- 
mained much  impressed  on  the  memory  of  my  Haileybury 
experiences.  We  were  supposed  to  make  full  notes  in  a 
"  rough  note-book "  of  the  words  of  wisdom  that  fell  from 
the  lips  of  our  legal  lecturer.  Then  we  were  required,  in 
the  solitude  of  our  chambers,  to  proceed,  with  the  assist- 
ance of  certain  law  books  that  were  prescribed  for  us,  to 
elaborate  valuable  treatises  on  these  legal  subjects,  taking 
our  rough  lecture  -  notes  as  guides.  At  the  close  of  the 
month  these  "fair-notes,"  as  the  elaborated  treatises  were 
termed,  had  to  be  handed  in  to  the  "  Legislator,"  who,  having 
inspected  them,  returned  the  books  a  few  days  later  to  us 
in  class  with  his  remarks,  complimentary  or  otherwise.  One 
morning,  after  some  very  appreciative  comments  on  the 
notes  of  the  good  boys  of  the  term,  he  came  to  a  notori- 
ously idle  man  who  was  seated  next  to  me,  and  addressing 
him  more  in  sorrow  than  in  anger,  said :  "  Mr  Simkins,  I 
have  been  carefully  through  your  notes,  and  it  quite  grieves 
me  to  be  obliged  to  say  that  I  have  found  them  a  tissue 
of  unconnected  nonsense  from  beginning  to  end."  To  my 
horror    Simkins,    taken    aback    and     disconcerted    by    the 

B 


l8  PARENTAGE    AND    EARLY    LIFE 

criticism,  unwittingly  blundered  out :  "  Oh !  I  know,  sir. 
I  am  very  sorry  indeed  for  the  mistake.  I  sent  you  in 
my  rough  notes,  sir,  instead  of  my  fair  note-book.  I  put 
down  every  word,  sir,  as  you  said  it,  and  I  had  not  time 
to  correct  it."     Tableau  ! 

As  good  fortune  would  have  it,  one  of  my  father's  oldest 
friends — Admiral  John  Townshend,  who  had  recently  suc- 
ceeded as  fourth  Marquis  Townshend  —  spent  part  of  the 
year  at  Balls'  Park,  his  beautiful  place  near  Hertford.  He 
had  known  me  since  I  was  a  child;  and  immediately  he 
learnt  I  was  at  Haileybury  hard  by,  he  and  Lady  Townshend 
most  kindly  gave  me  to  understand  that  I  was  always 
welcome  at  the  house  whenever  they  were  in  residence. 
My  father  and  mother  and  many  naval  friends  would  occa- 
sionally come  down  for  week-ends,  and  I  thus  got  to  know 
several  of  the  celebrities  of  the  "  Admiral's  Corner  "  at  the 
end  of  the  dining-room  in  the  United  Service  Club,  who 
were  figureheads  of  the  service  in  those  days.  There  was 
Rodney  Mundy,  one  of  my  godfathers,  generally  known 
as  "  The  Marquis,"  whereas  our  marquis-host  was  generally 
known  as  "Jack";  "Fly"  Martin  and  Henry  Martin — the 
latter's  special  taste  being  old  Dresden,  and  who,  at  his 
rooms  in  London,  would  show  me  with  pride  the  thickness 
of  the  dust  on  his  treasures,  proving  that  during  his  absence 
no  one  had  dared  to  touch  the  collection.  "  Harry"  Keppel 
was  comparatively  but  a  boy  in  those  days,  and  I  saw 
more  of  him  at  Raynham  than  at  Balls'  Park.  On  one 
occasion  Sir  Edward  Bulwer  -  Lytton,  who  was  then  con- 
testing Hertford,  spent  a  night  at  Balls'  Park,  and  I  can 
well  recall  the  contrast  between  his  fantastic  figure  and 
that  of  some  old  salts  who  were  present  on  the  occasion. 
And  here  I  met  for  the  first  time  Mary  Boyle,  a  great 
favourite  in  all  country  houses,  and  of  whom  I  was  to 
see  much  in  later  years  as  a  friend  of  my  sisters.  I  little 
supposed  in  those  days,  when  I  occasionally  called  for  my 
father  at  the  "  Senior "  and  caught  a  glimpse  of  the 
"Admiral's    Corner"    at    the    left-hand    end    of    the    big 


AT    RAYNHAM    HALL  ig 

dining-room,  that  I  should  ever  have  the  fortune  to  belong 
to  the  Club,  then  strictly  confined  to  the  senior  combatant 
officers  of  the  Army  and  Navy.  Yet  it  came  to  pass  in 
after -years  that,  having  been  appointed  an  Aide-de-Camp 
to  her  Majesty  the  Queen,  I  was  elected  to  the  Club  by 
the  Committee  —  being  the  only  Indian  civilian  who  has 
ever  yet  enjoyed  the  privilege. 

Lord  Townshend  had  also  in  Norfolk  the  beautiful  old 
family  seat  of  Raynham,  which  had  been  the  home  of  the 
Townshends  for  several  hundreds  of  years,  and  was  full  of 
the  portraits  and  other  valuable  records  of  that  distinguished 
East  Anglian  family.  Thither  was  I  bidden  regularly  every 
summer  and  autumn,  and  there  I  made  many  Norfolk 
friends  with  whom  I  have  kept  in  touch  all  my  life.  I 
was  allowed  to  stay  from  a  fortnight  to  a  month  at  a  time 
at  Raynham,  and  to  shoot  and  enjoy  myself  to  my  heart's 
content.  Lord  Raynham,  the  son,  who  always  remained 
my  intimate  friend,  sat  in  those  days  for  Tamworth,  and 
house-parties  contained  many  of  his  political  friends.  And 
one  met  there  also  many  of  the  Norfolk  notables  —  for  in 
those  days  great  people  in  the  county  were  not  above  see- 
ing something  of  their  neighbours,  and  had  not  yet  adopted 
the  process  of  destroying  all  local  conservative  coherence 
and  cordiality  by  limiting  their  house  -  parties  to  smart 
visitors  from  town.  Old  Dan  Gurney,  with  his  two  beauti- 
ful daughters  —  one  of  whom  married  later  Sir  Thomas 
Troubridge,  when  he  returned  as  a  hero  from  the  Crimea, — 
were  among  the  many  guests  at  Raynham.  The  old  gentle- 
man wore,  I  remember,  knee-breeches  and  a  blue  coat 
with  brass  buttons  in  the  evening,  which  was  certainly  a 
more  picturesque  costume  than  the  conventional  evening 
suit.  Augusta  Keppel,  then  the  acknowledged  belle  of  that 
part  of  Norfolk,  was  a  great  favourite  of  the  old  lord's, 
and  was  a  constant  visitor  at  Raynham.  She  was  the 
object  of  my  boyish  admiration,  as  she  was  indeed  the 
admiration  of  very  many  of  my  seniors.  Her  father,  the 
Rev.  Tom   Keppel,  a  younger  brother  of  Lord  Albemarle's 


20  PARENTAGE    AND    EARLY    LIFE 

and  of  Lady  Leicester's  (the  wife  of  Coke  of  Norfolk)  and 
of  Sir  Harry's,  was  rector  of  East  Creyke  hard  by,  and 
there  was  much  coming  and  going  between  the  two  houses, 
and  visits  to  Holkham  and  to  the  Wells  sands.  Miss 
Augusta  Keppel  subsequently  married  Charles  North  of 
Rougham,  the  head  of  the  Norfolk  branch  of  the  family, 
a  warm  and  lifelong  friend  of  mine.  During  the  whole 
of  my  time  in  India  I  kept  up  a  correspondence  with  my 
dear  friends  of  Rougham,  and  my  wife  and  I  were  regular 
visitors  at  the  Hall  on  every  occasion  of  our  return  home. 
The  father  and  mother  both  assisted  us  in  due  course  in 
ingratiating  ourselves  with  the  members  of  the  several 
generations  of  Norths  and  its  branches,  which  have  since 
developed  and  flourished,  and  all  of  whom  I  number 
among  my  best  friends.  On  one  occasion  during  a  visit 
to  Rougham  I  narrowly  escaped  the  honour,  when  after 
partridges,  of  being  blown  to  pieces  by  Sir  Harry  and 
Colin,  then  a  boy,  now  Admiral  Sir  Colin  Keppel.  They 
both  of  them  concentrated  their  fire  upon  me  as  if  I  had 
been  an  enemy's  cruiser.  But,  fortunately  for  me,  naval 
gunnery  in  those  days  not  having  reached  the  perfection 
of  accuracy  it  has  since  attained,  I  mercifully  escaped  and 
have  survived  to  tell  the  tale. 

When  I  saw  Raynham  again,  after  several  years'  service 
in  India,  and  returned  with  my  wife  on  a  visit  to  the 
beautiful  old  place  where  I  had  spent  so  many  happy  days, 
both  my  father  and  his*  dear  old  friend,  Lord  Townshend, 
had  joined  the  majority.  But  during  our  stay  at  the  old 
Hall  we  had  the  warmest  welcome  from  the  Dowager- 
Marchioness,  who  had  ever  been  so  good  to  me  as  a  boy, 
and  who  welcomed  my  wife,  not  only  for  my  sake,  but  as 
the  favourite  of  one  of  her  own  dearest  friends  and  rela- 
tions. Before  my  departure  for  India  the  old  Marquis  had 
given  me  a  photograph  of  himself  and  one  of  Raynham, 
showing  the  bedroom  always  assigned  to  me  on  my  visits. 
These  followed  my  fortunes  all  over  India  during  the 
many   years   of   my   service   there,   and    are   to   be   seen   in 


THE    EARTHAM    COTERIE  21 

an  honoured  place  adorning  the  walls  of  this  old  chateau 
where  I  have  anchored  with  most  of  my  belongings  in  my 
advanced  age. 

During  my  last  few  years  at  home,  before  leaving  for 
India,  I  had  better  opportunities  of  seeing  something  of 
English  life  than  generally  falls  to  the  lot  of  a  boy  of  my 
age.  I  suppose  that  the  fact  of  my  having  been  much 
abroad  made  me  somewhat  forward  and  bumptious,  so 
that  I  claimed  to  be  quite  "grown  up"  and  fit  for  "society" 
at  an  early  age.  My  cousin,  Sir  John  Rivett-Carnac,  who 
then  sat  for  Lymington,  had  to  be  in  town  for  the  session, 
and  used  to  lend  me  a  horse  to  ride  in  the  Row,  and  would 
take  me  down  to  Lymington,  where  he  had  the  celebrated 
Royal  Yacht  Squadron  cutter  the  Heroine,  and  make  me 
help  in  canvassing  at  the  elections.  He  could  always 
manage,  too,  to  get  me  a  seat  in  or  under  the  gallery 
whenever  I  wanted  to  go  down  to  the  House.  I  thus  got 
to  know  some  of  his  Parliamentary  friends,  who  were 
certainly  most  tolerant  to  me,  a  bumptious  boy.  The 
Palmerston  -  Boileau  connection  also  assisted  me,  as  John 
Boileau  was  then  Private  Secretary  to  his  kinsman,  Lord 
John  Russell.  My  youngest  sister,  too,  was  engaged  to  be 
married  to  Tilghman  -  Huskisson,  the  nephew  and  heir  of 
Huskisson,  the  Minister,  whose  tragic  death  on  the  occa- 
sion of  the  opening  of  the  first  railway  in  England  is  well 
known.  My  future  brother-in-law  had  a  delightful  place, 
which  had  belonged  to  his  uncle,  with  excellent  shoot- 
ing, at  Eartham  Park,  near  Chichester.  He  was  "  Eton " 
and  "Third  Trinity,"  and  he  had  a  coterie  of  friends  of 
the  same  mark,  who  used  to  gather  occasionally  at  Eartham, 
where  I  was  welcomed  by  him  after  the  manner  that  the 
young  brother  of  the  lady  is  generally  spoilt  by  the  fiance. 
At  Eartham  I  met  Ogle,  a  grand  Northumberland  squire, 
who  had  been  noted  in  the  boats  at  Eton,  and  was  a  great 
favourite  in  the  set.  Then  there  was  G.  Shaw  -  Lefevre, 
little  Gurdon,  who  went  by  the  name  of  the  "Waxen 
Chatterer,"  and  J.  St  Aubyn.     My  kinsman,  Frank  Boileau, 


22  PARENTAGE   AND    EARLY   LIFE 

would  also  sometimes  be  of  the  party  at  Eartham,1  which 
was  ever  most  sportsmanlike  and  cheery.  As  all  these 
men  were  in  London  in  the  season,  and  were  most  good- 
natured  to  me  as  the  future  brother-in-law  of  their  friend, 
I  had  several  to  whom  to  apply  if  ever  I  wanted  to  attend 
any  functions  of  interest.  Huskisson,  too,  was  related  to 
Lady  Palmerston,  and  to  this  and  the  Sulivan  connection 
I  was  indebted  for  what  to  one  of  my  age  was  a  great 
privilege — a  card  to  Cambridge  House  for  Lady  Palmerston's 
Saturday  evenings.  Here  I  would  get  one  of  my  friends 
to  point  out  to  me  the  notabilities,  and  I  can  fairly  claim 
to  have  seen  there  the  great  Delane,  who  on  one  occasion 
came  up  to  Gurdon,  who,  I  think,  was  then  acting  Private 
Secretary  to  Gladstone,  and  made  some  remark  to  him  in 
my  presence  about  the  weather  or  some  such  unconfidential 
subject.  I  cannot  boast  that  he  ever  addressed  himself  to 
me,  nor  can  I  claim  that  he  said  to  me  even  as  much  as 
the  man  bragged  that  King  William  the  Fourth  had  said 
to  him,  the  conversation  having  been  confined  to  the  king 
shouting  out,  "Damn  you,  sir,  get  out  of  my  way!" 

Here  must  be  interpolated  a  short  story  about  Lady 
Palmerston,  which,  as  it  was  very  well  known  at  the  time, 
may  be  pronounced  a  chestnut.  Still  it  is  worth  repeating, 
as  if  told  in  other  books  they  are  probably  of  the  long 
past.  And  the  story  hits  off  both  parties  admirably — 
Lord  Palmerston  and  his  wife — as  I  knew  of  them.  A 
kind  friend  thought  it  necessary  to  go  to  Lady  Palmerston 
with  a  terrible  story  of  the  iniquity  of  Lord  Palmerston 
and  a  lady  who,  if  I  remember  right,  was  French.  In 
relating  these  iniquities,  the  kindly  woman,  by  way  of 
pretending   to   help    Lady  Palmerston   through,    interlarded 

1  Of  the  members  of  the  cheery  parties  at  Eartham,  Ogle  died  soon  after  I  went 
to  India.  Tilghman-Huskisson  failed  to  obtain  a  seat  in  Parliament,  and  died 
comparatively  young.  Frank  Boileau  succeeded  to  the  baronetcy,  but  did  not  enter 
political  life.  His  younger  son,  my  kinsman,  Captain  Raymond  Boileau,  stood  at 
the  last  election  for  the  Eastern  Division  of  Norfolk.  The  remaining  three — Shaw- 
Lefevre,  Gurdon,  and  St  Aubyn — entered  the  House,  and  it  is  noticeable  that  each 
earned  for  himself  a  peerage,  under  the  titles  respectively  of  Eversley,  Cranworth, 
and  St  Levan. 


A   SEASON    IN    LONDON  23 

the  discourse  with  frequent  expressions  of  "  Of  course,  my 
dear,  I  do  not  believe  it."  Lady  Palmerston  heard  her 
patiently  to  the  bitter  end,  then,  looking  her  full  in  the 
face,  replied,  "  Oh,  my  dear,  you  say  you  do  not  believe 
a  word  of  it.  Well,  if  you  only  knew  Palmerston  half  as 
well  as  I  do,  you'd  know  he  is  quite  capable  of  it."  And 
this  was  all  the  encouragement  the  true  friend  received  for 
her  kindly  information. 

Thus,  together  with  a  goodly  number  of  friends  that  my 
father  and  mother  had  in  the  Navy  and  in  politics,  I  had 
a  very  good  time  during  my  last  year  in  England.  This, 
as  preparation  for  an  Indian  exile,  was  perhaps  hardly 
healthy.  I  never  really  liked  the  change  in  my  prospects, 
and  my  parents'  belief  that  India  was  "a  most  excellent 
place "  never  quite  reassured  me.  Neither  my  father  nor 
my  mother,  nor  indeed  any  of  my  own  immediate  family, 
were  ever  in  India,  save  my  second  brother,  who  served 
there  with  his  regiment,  and  their  ideas  of  the  delights  of 
the  country  were  presumably  founded  on  the  length  of  the 
purses  of  the  old  nabobs  who  lived  in  our  neighbourhood. 
There  was  indeed  a  legend  current  in  the  schoolroom  that 
my  father,  after  living  on  salt  junk  for  six  months,  had 
arrived  with  his  ship  in  Bombay  harbour,  where  his  elder 
brother  was  then  the  Governor,  and  that  he  had  promptly 
been  carried  off  to  Government  House  by  two  aides-de- 
camp, where  he  had  been  fed  for  a  fortnight  on  pate  de  joie 
gras,  champagne,  and  other  luxuries,  by  which  he  naturally 
became  impressed  with  the  many  excellences  of  India.  But 
the  dates  of  my  father's  commissions  do  not  support  this 
legend.  Though  the  training  I  had  received  did  not  make 
me  ever  take  quite  kindly  to  India,  still  it  had  this  advan- 
tage, that  it  left  me  with  some  knowledge  of  Continental  and 
home  life,  and  gave  me,  moreover,  some  political  friends 
with  whom  I  kept  in  touch  during  my  whole  service  in 
India,  and  whom  I  constantly  saw  on  my  return  home  on 
leave.  When  then  eventually,  after  my  full  service,  I  had 
to  leave  India,  I  did  not  return  to  the  Continent  and  to 


24  PARENTAGE    AND    EARLY   LIFE 

England  absolutely  without  any  tastes  or  resources,  and 
wholly  eaten  up  with  regret  at  leaving  India  and  the  daily 
official  grind.  I  was  quite  content  to  throw  off  the  yoke, 
and  I  returned  to  find  many  old  friends  to  welcome  me, 
besides  those  I  had  made  in  India. 

The  old  East  India  College  at  Haileybury  finally  closed 
its  gates  in  the  winter  of  1857,  when  most  of  the  "  Last 
Term  "  left  immediately  for  India,  where  the  first  batch  of 
men  under  the  competitive  system  had  already  preceded 
them  by  two  years.  As  I  was  full  young,  it  was  decided 
that  I  should  remain  a  year  at  home,  so  as  to  reach  India 
in  the  cold  weather  of  1858.  I  much  enjoyed  my  last 
season  in  London,  and  at  its  close  left  for  Northern  Italy 
and  the  Tyrol,  on  what  was  to  be  my  last  Continental 
holiday  for  many  a  year  to  come.  And  one  of  the  pleasant 
landmarks  of  that  trip  was  a  day  at  Padua  with  Leighton 
and  his  friend  Cockerell.  I  had  met  them  both  in  London, 
and  when  they  found  me  at  the  hotel  they,  knowing  my 
youthful  pretensions  to  interest  in  art,  very  good-naturedly 
allowed  me  to  accompany  them  to  Giotto's  Chapel.  There 
they  not  only  instructed  me  in  all  that  was  worth  admiring, 
but  gave  me  an  excellent  luncheon  of  sandwiches  and  Chianti. 
And  I  spent  there  an  interesting  morning  and  afternoon, 
listening  and  admiring,  whilst  they  sketched  and  chatted, 
and  being  allowed  to  pick  up  some  of  the  scraps  of  the 
conversation  which  were  to  assist  me  in  discoursing  learnedly 
on  Giotto  and  the  old  masters  on  later  occasions  in  India. 

Thence  I  passed  into  the  Tyrol,  and  joining  some  of  my 
family,  we  journeyed  through  Innsbruck  and  the  Bavarian 
Oberland  towards  Vienna.  I  had  always  had  a  great  liking 
for  the  country  between  Munich  and  Innsbruck,  and  some 
years  earlier  we  had  met  at  Munich  the  Baroness  Tautphceus, 
who  had  written  what  I  have  ever  thought  one  of  the  most 
delightful  books  in  our  language,  '  The  Initials,'  a  novel  of 
the  very  long  ago.  This  was  ever  my  companion  during  our 
travels,  and  my  sister  and  I  were  never  tired  of  trying  to  dis- 
cover Hildegardes  and  Crescenzs  among  the  foreign  young 


HILDEGARDE    OF    'THE    INITIALS'  25 

ladies  whom  we  met  at  the  hotels.  'The  Initials'  also 
accompanied  me  to  India,  where  it  helped  to  temper  the 
rigours  of  many  a  trying  day,  and  where  I  was  in  due 
course  to  find  my  Hildegarde,  resembling  in  many  respects 
the  heroine  of  the  Bavarian  hills.  That  Hildegarde  and  my 
well-worn  copy  of  '  The  Initials '  has  each  now  its  honoured 
corner  in  this  old  chateau  of  my  retirement. 

I  can  remember  how,  soon  after  our  arrival  in  Vienna  at 
the  close  of  August,  we  heard  every  bandsman  that  could  be 
collected  in  the  neighbourhood  thunder  out  in  the  great 
square  before  the  palace  the  glorious  Austrian  National 
Hymn,  on  the  birth  of  the  Crown  Prince  Rudolph.  Some 
years  earlier,  when  on  the  Tegernsee  with  Sir  J.  Milbanke, 
our  Minister  at  Munich,1  we  had  met  two  pretty  young 
Bavarian  Princesses,  dressed  in  white  muslin  frocks,  with 
light-blue  sashes  tied  behind  their  backs  after  the  manner  of 
those  days.  The  elder  had  become  Empress  of  Austria  and 
mother  of  the  heir-apparent  whose  birth  was  now  being 
celebrated.  I  saw  her  Majesty  again  in  later  years  in 
Vienna,  and  long  afterwards,  when  I  had  retired  from  India, 
once  more  on  the  Lake  of  Geneva,  just  before  her  tragic 
death  at  the  hands  of  an  Italian  anarchist.  From  Vienna 
we  went  to  Baden,  the  watering-place  in  the  neighbourhood, 
which  many  years  later  gained  an  unenviable  notoriety 
from  the  double  death  at  the  villa  there  of  the  Crown  Prince 
Rudolph  and  his  companion.  Lord  Augustus  Loftus  was 
then  British  Minister  to  Austria,  there  being  no  Ambassador 
to  Vienna  in  those  days.  Lady  Augustus  was  daughter  of 
my  father's  friend,  Admiral  Greville,  and  they  made  our  stay 
very  pleasant.  The  grand  manoeuvres  that  year  were  held 
near  the  base  of  the  Semmering  Pass,  and  the  Minister 
having  procured  my  father  an  introduction,  we  drove  over  to 
the  ground  and,  together  with  some  other  privileged  visitors, 
saw  the  final  review  under  the  guidance  of  a  most  obliging 
Austrian  Staff  officer,  a  major  of  Hussars.      The  Emperor 

1  He  was  cousin  of  my  brother-in-law,  Mr  Tilghman-Huskisson,  on  whose  death 
he  succeeded  to  his  property  and  took  ths  name  and  arms  of  Huskisson. 


26  PARENTAGE   AND    EARLY   LIFE 

and  the  royalties  lunched  on  the  ground  in  a  small  pavilion, 
and  we  and  the  rest  of  the  guests  were  entertained  under 
some  trees  al  fresco  hard  by.  The  Count  of  Meran,  son  of 
the  Archduke  John  by  a  morganatic  marriage,  came  round 
after  luncheon  and  obligingly  took  some  of  us  to  see  the 
horses  of  the  Emperor  and  his  staff — a  sight,  it  will  be 
believed,  well  worth  seeing.  I  particularly  remember  the 
interest  of  some  of  the  guests,  including  myself,  in  the 
various  decorations  and  orders  of  knighthood  worn  by  many 
of  those  present.  Our  good  -  natured  cicerone  made  us 
sketches,  displaying  the  several  foreign  orders,  and  ended  by 
making  a  caricature  of  me  in  a  grand  uniform  decorated  with 
a  large  cross  and  star,  which  caused  much  amusement.  I 
kept  this  sketch  religiously,  and  curiously  enough,  many 
years  later,  after  that  I  had,  as  Commissioner  of  Commerce 
with  the  Indian  Government,  accompanied  and  assisted  an 
Austrian  mission  on  trade  sent  out  to  India,  the  Emperor 
was  pleased  to  appoint  me  to  be  a  Knight  Grand  Com- 
mander of  the  Order  of  Francis  Joseph,  with  a  cross  and  star 
not  unlike  the  decorations  of  the  prophetic  sketch.  From 
Vienna  we  made  for  Trieste,  and  one  glorious  October 
morning  my  father  and  Mr  William  Forsyth,  then  Member  for 
Marylebone,  who  was  connected  with  my  mother's  family 
and  was  travelling  with  us,  accompanied  me  to  the  Austrian- 
Lloyd  steamer,  which  was  to  take  me  to  Alexandria  on  my 
Indian  journey.  On  board  was  Frank  Wyllie,  one  of  my 
intimate  friends  at  college  and  a  member  of  our  Haileybury 
club.  He  also  had  remained  at  home  later  than  our  con- 
temporaries, so  that  we  were  the  two  last  of  the  civilians 
from  Haileybury  to  reach  India.  He  left  us  at  Aden  and 
went  to  Bombay.  I  went  round  by  Ceylon  to  Calcutta, 
arriving  in  India  a  week  after  he  had  reached  his  Presidency, 
and  thus  winning  the  race  in  being  the  last  Haileybury 
civilian  to  go  out  to  that  country. 

We  made  a  delightful  passage  down  the  Adriatic  in 
glorious  weather.  We  had  some  very  pleasant  fellow- 
passengers,    who   were    all    good  -  naturedly   sympathetic   to 


EASTWARD    HO  !  27 

two  boys  going  out  to  try  their  fortunes  in  the  East.  Mr 
Dudley  Fortescue,1  then  Member  for  Andover,  was  one  of  the 
party,  and  was  particularly  obliging  and  encouraging  to  us 
both.  He  left  us  at  Ceylon,  and  from  that  time  forth  I  kept 
up  a  correspondence  with  him,  and  on  my  visits  home  and  at 
other  times  he  showed  me  many  kindnesses,  extending  over 
more  than  fifty  years.  This  last  New  Year  only  he  wrote  me 
a  cheery  letter,  alluding  to  the  jubilee  of  our  friendship,  and 
adding  that,  notwithstanding  he  had  nearly  reached  his 
ninetieth  birthday,  he  was  fairly  well.  He  planned  going 
down  to  the  British  Museum  to  see  some  specimens  of 
"  cup  marks,"  in  which  we  were  both  interested.  A  few 
weeks  later  I  heard  with  deep  regret  of  his  death,  and  later 
Lady  Camilla  Fortescue  wrote  me  that  he  had  been  fairly 
well  until  nearly  the  last,  and  that  the  projected  visit  to  the 
British  Museum  on  the  matter  in  which  we  were  both 
interested  had  duly  been  made. 

Our  fellow-passenger,  dear  old  Frank  Wyllie,  had  already 
died  in  the  preceding  year.  He  was  the  elder  brother  of 
Curzon  Wyllie,  also  one  of  my  intimate  friends,  and  a 
constant  guest  at  this  old  chateau,  the  news  of  whose  tragic 
death  at  the  hands  of  an  Indian  assassin  has  reached  me,  to 
my  deep  sorrow,  whilst  preparing  these  notes  for  the  press. 

1  The  Hon.  Dudley  Fortescue,  M.P. 


28 


CHAPTER    II. 

ARRIVAL    IN    INDIA,    AND    LIFE   IN    CALCUTTA. 

1857. 

Calcutta — Arrival  of  the  mail — First  impressions — India  transferred  to 
the  Crown  —  Colonel  Mundy  on  caste — Sir  H.  Thuillier  on  Indian 
servants — The  Bengal  Club — The  Calcutta  season — The  so-called 
college — Munshis — The  competition  men — Cream  of  the  univer- 
sities— Some  drawbacks — Twins — Changes  in  society — The  old 
style — Hospitality — Stay  with  Sir  James  Outram — His  consider- 
ateness — Illness — The  Bheel — Lady  Outram's  two  Wallahs — Sir 
Bartle  and  Lady  Frere  —  Their  delightful  hospitality  —  Major 
Malleson — Colonel  Nassau  Lees — Am  appointed  Master  of  the 
Revels — The  town  band — Lord  Clyde — Memorable  dinner  given  by 
Right  Hon.  James  Wilson  to  Lord  Canning — Sir  John  Peter  Grant 
— Am  passed  out  of  college  in  Calcutta. 

The  voyage  was  quite  uneventful.  We  spent  a  week  in 
Egypt  awaiting  the  mail  steamer,  and  saw  the  Pyramids 
and  some  other  of  the  sights  of  that  wonderful  land.  The 
good  ship  reached  the  Hoogly  on  a  delightful  cold  weather 
morning  of  November  1858.  The  arrival  of  the  mail  was 
an  important  event  to  Calcutta,  and  was  announced  by  the 
firing  of  three  guns  from  the  fort,  in  time  to  allow  of 
carriages  being  got  ready,  and  a  drive  to  Garden  Reach  to 
inspect  the  new  arrivals.  In  those  days  the  fortnightly 
steamer  brought  not  only  the  mails,  but  a  concentrated 
stream  of  members  of  European  society  for  Calcutta  and 
the  rest  of  the  Presidency,  and  the  early  cold  weather 
boats  generally  contained  a  considerable  number  of  young 
ladies,  known  by  the  name  of  "  Spins,"  who,  coming  out 
to  join  their  families  in  India,  were  in  due  course  to  become 


FIRST   VIEW   OF   CALCUTTA  20. 

merged  into  society  as  the  wives  of  the  eligible  bachelors 
of  the  Presidency.  The  arrival  of  these  young  ladies  always 
excited  much  interest,  and  as  the  ship  came  up  to  her 
moorings  we  could  see  a  large  crowd  at  the  landing-place, 
where  many  of  my  Haileybury  friends  were  much  in 
evidence.  Of  course  they  had  come  down  with  the  sole 
object  of  meeting  me !  Anyhow,  the  greetings  were  most 
hearty,  and  I  found  myself  carried  off  by  my  good  friend 
Jack  Burney  to  a  house  in  Chowringhee  where  he  was  then 
living  with  his  brother,  a  chaplain  at  the  cathedral,  and 
told,  with  true  Indian  hospitality,  that  I  was  to  make  that 
house  my  home  until  I  could  settle  myself  comfortably  in 
suitable  quarters.  Certain  events  of  one's  life  remain  photo- 
graphed on  one's  brain,  and  to  me  one  of  these  is  the 
morning  drive  up  from  Garden  Reach,  the  first  view  of 
Calcutta  as  one  got  abreast  of  the  cathedral,  with  Govern- 
ment House,  the  shipping,  the  fort,  and  then  in  front  of 
us  the  great  plain  or  Maidan,  and  on  this  side  the  long 
stretch  of  the  large  houses  of  Chowringhee,  which  have 
earned  for  Calcutta  the  name  of  the  "  City  of  Palaces." 
Since  that  morning  of  more  than  fifty  years  ago,  much 
has  changed  in  Calcutta,  but  this  magnificent  view  remains 
nearly  the  same,  save  that  some  of  the  stucco  houses  have 
been  replaced  by  finer  buildings.  The  remains  of  a  huge 
bamboo  framework  erected  on  the  Maidan  for  fireworks  were 
pointed  out  to  me,  and  I  realised  that,  whilst  I  was  on 
board  ship,  India  had  passed  from  the  East  India  Company 
to  the  Crown,  and  that  I  was  not  to  be  a  servant  of  "  John 
Company,"  but  of  her  Most  Gracious  Majesty  the  Queen. 
The  fireworks  had  followed  the  reading  of  the  Queen's 
Proclamation  of  a  fortnight  before. 

The  delights  of  roomy  quarters,  and  the  breakfast  on 
the  broad  verandah,  and  other  luxuries  so  acceptable  after 
a  voyage  on  shipboard,  how  vividly  they  remain  impressed 
on  my  memory  after  the  lapse  of  even  more  than  half  a 
century !  In  the  afternoon  I  was  taken  in  hand  by  several 
college  friends,  driven  down  to  the  cricket-ground  and  en- 


30  ARRIVAL    IN    INDIA,   AND    LIFE    IN    CALCUTTA 

rolled  as  a  member,  then  taken  off  to  the  Bengal  Club, 
affected  by  the  Haileybury  civilian  of  those  days,  the  United 
Service  Club  being  more  in  favour  with  some  of  the  military 
and  the  new  group  of  what  were  termed  "  Competition 
Wallahs "  or  wallahs,  the  civil  servants  who  were  now 
taking  the  place  of  the  Haileybury  men.  During  the  next 
few  days  I  was  introduced  to  many  people,  and  favoured 
with  much  interesting  information  relating  to  India.  And 
I  had  been  set  up  with  two  or  three  servants,  the  necessary 
"  buggy "  with  a  respectable  Cabulee  horse,  and  was  in 
treaty  for  my  dear  Arab,  "  Selim,"  and  for  a  second  Cabulee 
to  complete  my  stable.  At  the  Bengal  Club  I  found  in- 
stalled Colonel  Mundy,  younger  brother  of  Sir  Rodney  the 
"  Marquis,"  my  father's  friend  and  my  godfather.  He  had 
been  in  the  Grenadier  Guards,  and  had  exchanged  to  India 
to  command  a  line-regiment  there.  He  did  not  like  the 
country,  and  was  not  particularly  encouraging,  though  he 
was  most  good  to  me,  knowing  my  people  so  well.  "  My 
dear  boy,"  he  would  say,  "now  that  this  Mutiny  fighting 
is  practically  over,  India,  believe  me,  is  no  place  for  a 
gentleman.  Oh,  that  fellow  with  a  caste -mark  who  has 
just  brought  your  racquet  things  is  your  bearer,  is  he  ? 
Wonder  he  condescends  to  carry  your  racquet !  Caste,  my 
dear  child,  is  the  bane  of  this  country.  Why,  the  fellow 
who  cleans  my  boots,  blowed  if  he  will  clean  my  shoes." 
But  there  were  many  others  who  sang  quite  a  different  tune, 
and  being  in  possession  for  the  first  time  in  my  life  of 
horses  and  servants  of  my  own,  and  drawing  a  monthly 
salary,  I  was  hardly  inclined  to  believe  that  India  could 
be  such  a  bad  place  for  the  younger  son  of  a  youngest  son, 
— certainly  not  whilst  the  cold  weather  lasted.  My  faith  in 
a  most  attentive  and  affable  "  bearer "  with  whom  one  of 
my  chums  had  fitted  me,  the  man  being  a  brother  of  the 
robber  attached  to  his  own  person,  was  soon  to  be  shaken 
by  the  words  of  wisdom  and  experience  of  Sir  Henry 
Thuillier,  the  Surveyor -General,  who  was  most  hospitable, 
and  gave  me  much  sound  advice.     "  Oh,  your  bearer,"  said 


THE    INDIAN    BEARER  31 

he,  "an  Ooryah  by  caste,  of  course;  that  lot  always  stick 
to  the  civilian,  young  and  old.  Oh  yes,  I  have  no  doubt 
his  certificates  are  excellent  —  honest  to  a  degree,  most 
virtuous,  and  all  that.  But  I  suppose  your  mother  got 
you  an  outfit  at  Thresher  &  Glennie's  ?  Just  so.  I  know 
all  about  it.  Did  not  my  own  wife,  when  far  away  from 
me,  do  the  same  for  my  son  ?  Three  dozen  pairs  of  white 
trousers  —  oh,  you  only  got  two  dozen  !  I  am  sorry  for 
your  bearer !  Shirts,  coats,  and  waistcoats  in  proportion. 
Well,  you  say  you  have  made  them  all  over  to  your  bearer. 
Now,  by  this  time  he  has  cut  off  two  buttons  from  each 
pair  of  trousers,  and  one  button  from  each  coat  and  waist- 
coat. At  the  end  of  the  month  he  will  come  to  you 
deploring  the  iniquities  of  the  dhobi,  or  washerman,  whom, 
he  will  represent,  has  in  the  ferocity  of  his  washing  process 
dislocated  all  the  buttons  of  your  vestments,  and  even 
utterly  destroyed  not  a  few.  This  infamy  has  necessitated 
the  purchase  in  the  bazaar  of  a  supply  of  buttons  of  the 
most  approved  British  manufacture  to  replace  the  loss. 
This  has  then  ended  in  the  expenditure  of  thirteen  annas 
on  buttons.  Moreover,  to  sew  on  these  buttons  and  to 
fortify  those  loosened  in  the  washing  process  has  necessi- 
tated the  engagement  of  a  durzi,  or  tailor,  for  half  a  day, 
hence  the  six  annas  entered  in  the  account.  And  the  other 
four  annas,  that  is  for  the  thread.  The  charge  may  seem 
high,  but  the  durzi  always  supplies  the  thread,  and,  as  the 
sahib  will  soon  learn  for  himself  fast  enough,  the  durzis  are 
mostly  Mohamedans,  and  the  most  rapacious  of  all  classes 
in  India.  And,"  continued  my  mentor,  "the  bearer  will 
then  proceed  to  sell  you  back  your  own  buttons,  which  he 
has  cut  off  your  clothes,  and  with  the  thread  taken  from 
the  housewife  which  I  am  sure  your  mother  put  into  the 
box,  he,  pocketing  the  wage  charged,  will  himself  sew  on 
those  buttons,  which  will  come  off  again,  and  again  reappear 
in  your  accounts  periodically  until  you  marry.  And  your 
bearer  will  then  retire  from  your  service  with  a  much  larger 
sum   to   his   credit   than  your  banking-account  will  show." 


32  ARRIVAL    IN    INDIA,    AND    LIFE    IN    CALCUTTA 

Although  I  had  most  excellent  servants  in  India,  it  is  not 
improbable  that  their  contentment,  on  which  so  much  of 
their  efficiency  must  depend,  was  in  part  due  to  the  system 
described  by  Sir  Henry  Thuillier,  and  which,  I  fear,  ex- 
tended even  to  a  period  later  than  my  marriage,  as  my 
wife  recked  little  of  such  matters,  and  we  always  retained 
an  excellent  and  most  contented  establishment  to  the  end. 
After  a  fortnight's  stay  with  my  hospitable  friends  in 
Chowringhee,  to  be  followed  later  by  a  visit  to  the  great 
Sir  James  Outram,  the  Bayard,  as  he  was  called,  of  India, — 
a  friend  of  my  family's  who  showed  me  great  kindness,  and 
whom  I  regarded  with  much  veneration, —  I  took  up  my 
quarters,  as  it  was  then  meet  for  a  fashionable  young 
civilian  to  do,  at  the  Bengal  Club,  as  a  student  in  college, 
or  a  "  Lance  Civilian,"  as  my  soldier -friends  in  the  Fort 
called  me.  The  system  of  keeping  young  civilians  in  Cal- 
cutta to  study  the  languages  has  since  been  abolished,  and 
I  can  pronounce,  from  experience,  that  no  more  unwise 
system  could  possibly  have  been  devised.  The  alarm  and 
troubles  of  the  Mutiny  were  all  practically  over  when  I 
commenced  life  in  Calcutta,  and  everything  had  resumed 
its  wonted  confidence  and  calm.  During  the  cold  season 
there  was  an  unceasing  round  of  amusements  of  every 
description,  which  the  cool  weather  permitted  one  to  enjoy. 
The  young  civilian  who  "went  in  for  it,"  and  was  "in  it," 
need  never  have  had  a  moment  to  himself.  He  was  an 
eligible  parti,  and,  in  the  language  of  the  country,  "  worth 
three  hundred  pounds  a  -  year  dead  or  alive."  He  was 
thus  in  demand  at  all  the  balls,  dinners,  and  fetes  which 
were  crowded  into  a  cold -weather  season.  There  was 
cricket,  racing,  paper-chases,  and  the  tent-club  later  in  the 
year,  and  one  could  play  sufficiently  high  at  the  Bengal 
Club  and  sit  up  very  late  and  eat  heavy  suppers  there  if 
so  inclined.  One's  college  duties  consisted  in  having  a 
munshi  daily  to  teach  one  the  language.  One  had  to 
go  up  for  examination  periodically  to  show  progress,  other- 
wise   there   was    no   control   of    the    so-called   "students." 


IN  "COLLEGE   IN  CALCUTTA  33 

If,  then,  one  was  not  very  sensible  and  earnest  beyond 
one's  years,  it  will  be  understood  that  when  the  munshi 
presented  himself  in  the  morning  after  a  ball,  or  a  late 
night  at  cards  and  supper  at  the  club,  that  then,  like  the 
small  boy  in  'Punch,'  one  would  find  that  "the  very  idea 
of  work  in  this  delicious  weather  is  quite  repugnant  to 
my  feelings,"  and  that  the  munshi,  who  was  paid  by  the 
month,  not  unwillingly  took  a  holiday  and  left  you  to 
recuperate.  One  had  almost  unlimited  credit  in  those  days, 
and  there  was  nearly  every  possible  temptation  to  a  young 
man  just  beginning  life  to  indulge  in  wholesale  extrav- 
agance. There  were  legends  of  the  debts  piled  up  by 
former  young  civilians  during  their  stay  in  college  which 
might  well  have  terrified  the  unsteady.  I  do  not  think 
that  my  time  knew  any  really  bad  cases,  but  some  of  my 
friends,  like  myself,  were  not  studious,  and  hardly  econ- 
omical, and  certainly  wasted  time  and  money  in  the 
gaieties  of  Calcutta.  A  few  had  the  good  luck  to  be 
carried  off  by  friends  to  stations  "  up-country,"  where  they 
saw  something  of  the  people,  learned  the  language,  passed 
soon,  and  got  a  start  in  the  service  of  the  idler  in  Calcutta. 
The  competition  man,  being  generally  older  and  made 
of  sterner  stuff,  was  not  so  easily  misled  as  was  the  youth 
from  Haileybury.  And  as  regards  the  "  New  System," 
as  it  was  termed  fifty  years  ago,  and  its  men,  if  they  did 
not  materially  improve  the  supply,  it  is,  in  my  opinion, 
quite  silly  to  debit  against  them,  as  has  sometimes  been 
done,  any  portion  of  the  difficulties  of  recent  years,  the 
inevitable  outcome  of  so-called  progress  and  of  the  times. 
It  is  true  that  after  the  first  year  or  so  the  service  no 
longer  attracted,  as  at  first,  some  of  the  picked  men  of  the 
universities,  and  that  the  exceptional  high  average  was  not 
sustained.  Still,  as  a  rule,  the  men  were  of  a  satisfactory 
class.  It  was  a  question  whether  the  raising  of  the  age 
limit  was  an  improvement.  The  Haileybury  boy,  caught 
young,  took  kindly  to  his  work.  He  had  generally  relations 
in  the  service,  had  been  brought  up  to  regard  the  appoint- 

c 


34  ARRIVAL    IN    INDIA,    AND    LIFE    IN    CALCUTTA 

ment  that  interest  had  secured  for  him  as  a  prize,  and 
was  proud  of  the  career  offered  to  him.  The  older,  mature, 
university  man,  conscious  of  his  own  ability  and  the  position 
this  might  command  at  home,  would  be  inclined  to  dis- 
appointment when  he  found  himself  at  some  out-of-the-way 
station  in  the  hot  weather,  and  set  to  perform  the  element- 
ary preparatory  work  of  an  assistant  magistrate  that  hardly 
seemed  commensurate  to  his  education  and  powers.  The 
average  ordinary  work  in  the  districts  demanded  no  selected 
university  talent.  What  was  most  wanted  was  cheery 
good  health,  intelligence  sufficient,  and  common-sense.  And 
the  Haileybury  consignments,  with  all  their  faults,  generally 
supplied  this,  together  with  a  few  picked  men  for  the  Secre- 
tariat and  special  posts.  By  degrees,  as  the  first  surprise 
of  the  change  wore  off,  the  position  was  readjusted  by  the 
service  being  recruited  largely  from  the  old  class  that  had 
supplied  Haileybury,  by  the  sons  and  relations  of  those  who 
were  of  the  Indian  service. 

Before  leaving  the  subject  of  the  competition  men,  which 
bulked  large  during  the  first  part  of  my  time  in  India,  I 
must  illustrate  the  effect  of  the  change  in  the  age  of  candi- 
dates by  the  following  story :  The  "  Haileybury  boys " 
came  out  generally  at  nineteen.  Among  the  new  lot  were 
now  often  to  be  met  a  young  civilian  who  had  brought 
out  with  him  his  wife  and  perhaps  a  child  or  so.  A  clever 
little  man,  who  had  come  out  with  his  wife,  had  passed 
through  college  in  Calcutta  and  had  been  posted  to  a 
headquarter  station  up-country,  where  he  was  yet  faced 
by  the  two  departmental  examinations  which  all  Assistant 
Magistrates  had  then  to  undergo.  The  Lieutenant- 
Governor's  lady  was  credited  with  taking  great  interest 
in  all  domestic  occurrences,  and  to  be  most  good-naturedly 
successful  in  assisting  all  the  young  married  ladies  of  the 
service  in  selecting  personages  of  the  Mrs  Gamp  persuasion 
when  occasion  required.  The  little  be-spectacled  gentle- 
man above  mentioned  and  his  wife  had  come  specially 
under    the    favourable    notice    of    milady    in    this    respect, 


CHANGES    IN    CALCUTTA  35 

though  the  Lieutenant-Governor  himself  had  had  no  oppor- 
tunity of  interesting  himself  in  the  young  assistant  magis- 
trate or  his  affairs.  One  evening  the  pair  were  invited  to 
dine  at  Government  House,  and  his  Honour,  whilst  going 
the  round  of  his  guests  before  dinner,  rather  hesitated  as 
he  arrived  at  his  be-spectacled  retiring  young  guest.  But 
her  Ladyship  speedily  sailed  up  to  the  rescue,  and  bringing 
forward  the  young  couple  announced  before  the  whole 
company,  "  Oh,  James,  don't  you  know  Mr  Larkins  ?  Why, 
he  is  the  young  civilian  who  has  twice  had  twins,  and  not 
yet  passed  either  of  his  examinations." 

During  the  fifty -one  years  that  have  passed  since  little 
Jack  Burney  drove  me  up  in  his  buggy  to  his  brother's 
hospitable  house  in  Chowringhee,  Calcutta  has  undergone 
many  changes.  The  buildings  along  the  Maidan  have 
improved.  Tramways  have  ousted  the  palanqueens,  and 
electric  fans  have  exorcised  the  punkah  -  wallahs,  while 
abundant  ice  has  improved  the  abdar1  off  the  face  of 
each  European  establishment.  But  the  greatest  change 
has  been  in  the  society  itself.  I  have  not  been  in  Calcutta 
for  some  fifteen  years,  but  even  at  the  close  of  Lord  and 
Lady  Lansdowne's  delightful  reign  the  real  Bahadur2  and 
the  Bara  Bibiz  were,  like  the  dodo,  things  of  the  past — 
practically  only  to  be  looked  for  in  the  new  Indian  Museum. 
And  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  excellent  influence  of 
that  well  -  attuned  Viceregal  Court  —  quite  the  best  of  my 
time  in  India — had  greatly  assisted  the  development  of  sound 
ideas.  When  I  arrived  there  in  1858,  at  the  close  of  the 
Mutiny,  Calcutta  was  still  the  headquarters  of  the  Empire, 
and  the  whole  machinery  of  the  Government  of  India,  and  of 
the  Government  of  Bengal,  was  not  packed  up  just  before 
the  hot-weather  and  sent  up  with  its  whole  staff  to  the 
mountains.  The  Members  of  Council  and  other  high  officers 
had  big  houses  in  Chowringhee,  kept  "  curricles "  in  fair 
supply,  and  entertained  in  a  hospitable,  if  after  a  somewhat 
ponderous  and  tedious,  fashion.     The  white  soup,  the  tinned 

1  The  man  who  cooled  the  wines  and  water.         "  Great-man.         s  Great-lady. 


36  ARRIVAL    IN    INDIA,   AND    LIFE    IN    CALCUTTA 

salmon,  were  then  much  the  same  as  now,  but  the  whole  of 
your  dinner  was  displayed  before  your  eyes  on  the  splendid 
old  mahogany  table,  which  was  duly  uncovered,  and  its 
beauties  revealed  at  dessert.  Your  host  would  himself  carve 
the  saddle  of  mutton  placed  in  front  of  him,  and  the  turkey 
and  ham  would  be  similarly  sliced  and  distributed  by  the 
lady  of  the  house.  Possibly  the  ice-ship  had  been  delayed 
and  there  was  no  chance  of  ice-pudding,  but  the  clever  abdar, 
to  whom  all  the  secrets  of  sal-ammoniac  were  well  known, 
would  cool  the  champagne  to  a  nicety,  and  of  this  your  host 
would  be  sure  to  invite  you  to  drink  with  him  a  glass.  In 
humbler  establishments  there  was,  perhaps,  the  hot  wind 
and  evaporation  to  make  the  bottle  of  beer  a  delight.  All 
the  furniture  and  appointments  of  the  house  were  "  early 
Victorian,"  the  Georgian  influence  being  sometimes  notice- 
able, as  most  men  on  succeeding  to  office  took  over  all  the 
solid  furniture  of  their  predecessors.  Your  host  and  hostess, 
if  they  were  at  the  top  of  the  tree,  were  fashioned  after  the 
same  style — early  Victorian  ;  and  if  somewhat  pompous,  still 
kindly,  liberal  souls,  as  you  would  learn  soon  enough  were 
you  unfortunately  to  be  taken  ill.  In  this  case,  though  your 
acquaintance  hardly  extended  beyond  the  dinner-party,  your 
hostess  would  drive  over  to  the  club  or  boarding-house  and, 
listening  to  no  excuse,  would  carry  you  off  to  the  Chow- 
ringhee  mansion,  and,  installing  you  there  in  the  best  room, 
would  tend  you  with  every  care  until  you  were  convalescent. 
And  the  pompous  old  Bahadur,  the  husband,  would  never 
fail  to  pay  you  his  daily  visit  on  return  from  office,  and  fire 
off  a  few  platitudes  for  your  delectation.  "  Society  "  with 
the  big  "S"  in  those  days  was  mostly  confined  to  the 
members  of  the  Civil  Service,  with  a  sprinkling  of  military 
men.  The  "  Outsider,"  as  he  was  called, — the  barrister, 
merchant,  those  connected  with  the  railway  and  other  enter- 
prises,— was,  so  to  speak,  "  out  of  it,"  and  seemed  often  to 
appreciate  being  spared  the  terrors  of  the  great  man's  barra- 
khana.1  The  Lower  Bengal  Civil  Service  was  a  close  and 
somewhat  fastidious  autocracy,  looking  askance  even  at  the 

1  Big-dinner. 


THE    COMPETITION    MEN  37 

civilians  employed  directly  under  the  Viceroy,  unless  they 
had  been  drawn  from  the  pure  Bengal  source.  All  civilians 
from  the  non-regulation  provinces,  such  as  the  Punjab,  were 
regarded  as  having  fallen  away  from  the  tenets  of  the  class 
to  which  they  had  belonged,  and  to  be  showy  and  unreliable. 
The  men  who  were  to  supplant  the  Haileybury  civilians,  the 
"  Competition  Wallahs,"  or  wallahs  as  they  were  termed,  had 
made  their  appearance  in  Calcutta  a  couple  of  years  before 
my  arrival,  and  notwithstanding  the  strong  class  feeling 
aroused,  had  fairly  made  their  way  in  social  and  official 
success.  This  was  hardly  to  be  wondered  at,  since,  as  has 
already  been  noticed,  the  first  few  batches  included  several 
picked  men  from  both  universities,  who  would  have  been 
welcomed  everywhere  in  the  best  European  society.  These 
talented  men,  older  than  the  Haileybury  arrivals,  and  with 
greater  experience  of  the  world,  did  something  towards 
leavening  the  old-fashioned  ponderous  routine  of  the  Calcutta 
season.  In  those  days  Europe  was  still  a  great  way  off,  and 
a  journey  there  was  long  and  expensive.  The  daily  telegram 
to  keep  all  up  to  time  with  European  politics  and  ideas  had 
not  arrived,  and  the  flood  of  cheap  English  literature  of 
to-day  had  not  yet  swamped  the  old  '  Calcutta  Review  '  or  the 
'  Journal  of  the  Asiatic  Society.'  One  had  then  to  live  to  some 
extent  in  India,  and  one's  thoughts  were  mainly  of  India. 
The  remembrance  of  the  past  year's  visit  home,  with  the 
continuity  of  its  events  kept  up  by  mail  letters  and  contem- 
porary literature,  did  not  then  cause  one  to  live  in,  and  think 
of,  Europe,  distempered  by  the  obligatory  return  at  times 
to  the  dull  routine  of  one's  official  Indian  duties.  I  went 
out  to  India  long  after  the  times  of  Malcolm  and  Todd,  when 
men  lived  entirely  for  India,  and  being  free  from  the  worries 
of  the  telegraph,  and  untrammelled  by  regulation  and  inces- 
sant tabular  returns,  had  some  time  to  devote  to  a  study  of 
the  people,  of  their  history  and  their  literature.  Since  then 
there  has  been  much  "  Progress."  When  I  openly  avow  I 
have  some  liking  for  the  traditions  of  those  bad  old  times,  it 
will  be  seen  how  hopelessly  old  and  fatuous  I  have  become, 
and  how  little  is   to  be  expected  from  my  recollections  of 


38  ARRIVAL    IN    INDIA,    AND    LIFE    IN    CALCUTTA 

what  will  assist  the  inquirer  to  an  appreciation  of  the  many 
well-worn  topics  of  Indian  reform. 

To  return  to  the  friends,  and  doings,  of  my  first  years  in 
India.  With  the  exception  of  a  visit  during  one  hot  weather 
to  Dacca,  to  my  cousin  Mr  C.  Rivett-Carnac,  a  mighty 
hunter,  to  be  introduced  to  my  first  tiger,  I  wasted  a  year 
and  a  half  at  the  Presidency,  making  many  friends,  it  is 
true,  and  enjoying  myself  sufficiently. 

During  my  day  in  Calcutta  there  came,  as  members  of  the 
Viceroy's  Council,  two  very  distinguished  men,  with  whom, 
3'oung  as  I  was,  I  had  the  privilege  of  becoming  on  terms  of 
close  intimacy.  Sir  James  Outram  was  appointed  as  Military 
Member  of  Council  in  1858,  his  Lucknow  laurels  still  fresh 
upon  him.  Sir  Bartle  Frere,  who  had  rendered  signal  service 
in  Sindh  during  the  Mutiny,  joined  from  Bombay  as  member 
in  the  Home  Department  at  the  close  of  the  following  year. 
Sir  James  Outram  had  known  my  uncle  when  Governor  of 
Bombay,  so,  with  true  Indian  hospitality,  I  was  bidden  not 
long  after  my  arrival  to  the  big  house  at  Garden  Reach, 
where  the  old  warrior  was  then  installed,  and  there  received 
with  great  kindness  by  the  General  and  Lady  Outram.  I 
spent  a  month  with  them  in  the  cold  weather,  to  be  followed 
later  by  shorter  visits  of  a  week  or  ten  days  at  a  time. 
Although  I  find  that  he  was  then  only  in  his  fifty-fifth  year, 
Sir  James  appeared  to  me  to  be  marvellously  old.  Since  he 
landed  in  India  he  had  led  an  arduous  life,  often  out,  season 
after  season  during  the  hot  weather,  amid  the  Central  Indian 
hills  with  the  wild  Bheel *  tribes,  who  were  devoted  to  him, 

1  The  Bheel  is  perhaps  best  known  by  the  Indian  student's  delightful  description 
of  him  :  "  The  Bheel  is  a  black  man,  but  much  more  hairy.  He  shoots  you  with 
the  archers  which  he  carries  in  his  hands,  and  throws  your  body  into  the  ditch.  By 
this  you  may  know  the  Bheel."  This  is  probably  a  "chestnut"  to  some,  but,  as 
Mr  Lionel  Tollemache  truly  says,  "it  may  be  as  nuts  to  others."  This,  and  some 
other  equally  amusing  essays  by  Bengali  students,  were  told  me  years  ago  by  an 
officer  of  the  Educational  Department.  I  happened  to  be  with  the  late  Lord  Lytton 
shortly  afterwards,  and  related  these  to  him,  to  his  delight.  He  was  writing  home 
at  the  time  to  H.R.H.  the  then  Prince  of  Wales,  and  included  these  stories  in  his 
letter.  They  are  thus  to  be  found  enshrined  in  the  '  Letters  of  the  First  Earl  of 
Lytton,'  edited  by  his  daughter.  Hardly  the  sort  of  volume  in  which  one  would 
expect  to  find  such  frivolous  tales  ! 


SIR   JAMES   OUTRAM  39 

and  to  whom  he  was  equally  devoted.  The  anxieties  and 
hardships  of  the  recent  campaigns  had  told  heavily  on  his 
enfeebled  constitution.  And  now  the  man  accustomed  to  an 
outdoor  life  in  a  dry,  if  hot,  climate  had  come  down  to  the 
heavy  steamy  atmosphere  of  Calcutta,  to  work  all  day  long  in 
an  office,  and  to  have  to  dress  up  of  an  evening  and  take  part 
in  ever-recurring  barra-khanas,  or  big  dinner-parties.  He 
detested  the  constant  daily  flow  of  office  boxes,  and  the  visits 
of  secretaries  who,  I  fear,  sometimes  came  to  discover  where 
some  important  file  had  got  delayed.  "  This  is  civilian's 
work,"  he  would  growl  out  to  me,  adding,  "  I  daresay  you 
could  do  it  as  well  if  not  better  than  I."  He  had  grown 
stout  and  had  given  up  riding,  but  enjoyed  his  drive  in  the 
early  morning  and  in  the  cool  of  the  evening  in  an  open 
carriage.  I  often  accompanied  him  on  his  morning  outings, 
and  would  try  to  get  him  to  talk  of  Bheels  and  tigers,  but 
seldom  succeeded.  He  seemed  generally  tired  and  worn-out, 
and  would  drink  in  the  morning  air,  lie  back  in  the  carriage, 
and  think.  Among  the  few  stories  he  told  me  was  one  of  his 
Bheel  servant,  who  saw  for  the  first  time  a  kuskus  tattle,  or 
mat  or  screen  of  sweet  dried  grass,  used  in  cooling  a  room, 
which  his  master  had  brought  back  with  him  on  one  of  his 
visits  to  Bombay.  The  mat  was  well  soused  in  water,  and 
Outram  got  behind  it  into  a  comfortable  arm-chair,  trusting 
to  the  roaring  hot  wind  to  send  to  him  cool  breezes  through 
the  wet  screen  whilst  he  dozed.  At  first  the  result  was  excel- 
lent, and  Outram  went  comfortably  to  sleep,  soon  to  be 
awakened  by  the  hot  wind  roaring  through  the  tattie.  "  Why 
did  you  not  keep  the  tattie  wet?"  he  howled  to  the  man.  "  So 
I  did,"  was  the  reply,  "  but  as  soon  as  I  wetted  it  the  wind 
dried  it  up  again,  and  the  sahib  did  not  expect  me  to  go  on 
wasting  water  and  my  time  in  that  foolish  manner  ?  " 

Sir  James  was  most  particular  about  his  social  duties. 
Much  as  he  hated  dinner-parties,  he  recognised  his  responsi- 
bilities as  a  highly  salaried  entertainer,  and  nearly  every 
one  who  called  was  invited  to  his  table.  He  would  groan 
to  me  and  say,  "Oh,  but  that  custom  would  only  allow  me 


40  ARRIVAL    IN    INDIA,    AND    LIFE    IN    CALCUTTA 

to  send  out  cards :  '  Sir  James  and  Lady  Outram  hope  that 
Mr  X.   will  not  give  them  the  pleasure  of  his  company  at 

dinner  on  the  .      Rs.  16  are  enclosed.'  "      "  This,"  he 

would  add,  "  would  be  sufficient  to  give  a  young  man  a 
decent  dinner  at  the  Club  or  elsewhere,  and  this  he  would 
much  prefer  to  a  drive  all  the  way  down  to  Garden  Reach. 
And  they  could  not  then  accuse  me  of  being  mean,  and  not 
spending  a  fair  portion  of  my  salary  in  entertaining."  He 
was  very  scrupulous — unnecessarily  so,  I  used  to  think — in 
returning  all  calls,  even  those  of  the  last -arrived  young 
civilian,  who,  in  duty  bound,  left  cards  on  all  Members  of 
Council.  He  would  come  into  my  room  with  a  sheaf  of 
cards  in  his  hand  and  make  me  tell  him,  as  far  as  I  could, 
who  the  callers  were.  Then  I  would  help  to  find  out  where 
these  many  callers  lived.  More  than  once,  when  leaving  a 
friend's  room,  high  up  on  the  fourth  floor  of  a  boarding- 
house,  or  the  Club,  I  have  found  dear  old  Sir  James  on  the 
landing,  very  blown,  for  he  had  grown  stout,  searching 
for  the  room  of  some  young  man  who  had  called  upon  him, 
and  whose  call,  he  would  instil  upon  me,  must  be  returned. 
In  those  days  Calcutta  knew  no  lifts,  and  a  four- storey 
climb  on  a  hot  afternoon  was  trying  even  to  the  young 
and  the  light  of  figure.  A  catastrophe  occurred  on  the 
occasion  of  a  big  dinner-party  given  during  one  of  my 
visits  to  this  hospitable  house.  Lady  Outram  had  made 
out  a  list  of  two -and -twenty  guests,  and  she  decided  to 
complete  the  two  dozen  by  adding  two  of  the  young  com- 
petition civilians,  or  wallahs.  Intending  to  ascertain  from 
me  two  names,  she  added,  on  her  rough  list,  "  and  two 
wallahs"  Having  picked  out,  with  my  aid,  the  names  of 
two  of  the  callers,  she  wrote  her  notes  of  invitation,  and 
then,  after  the  manner  that  one  had  with  native  orderlies, 
when  the  invitations  were  sent  out  by  hand,  she  wrote  out 
a  careful  list  of  the  names  of  those  to  whom  the  invitations 
were  sent,  with  a  note  on  the  top,  "  Please  sign  initials  in 
acknowledgment  of  receipt."  By  ill-fortune,  instead  of  giving 
this  fair  list  to  the  orderly,   she  gave   him    her  rough  list, 


A    SOCIAL   COMPLICATION  41 

completed  with  the  "  and  two  wallahs."  Every  one  to  whom 
the  invitations  went  saw  this  entry,  and  doubtless  chortled 
much  thereat.  At  last  the  two  notes  reached  the  two  young 
civilians  for  whom  they  were  destined,  and  one  signed 
"  Wallah  No.  I,"  the  other  following  suit  with  "  Wallah 
No.  2."  Poor  Lady  Outram  was  horrified  when  the  return 
of  the  list  disclosed  the  mistake.  Then,  on  the  evening 
coming  round,  she  had  to  receive  the  two  young  men,  and 
Sir  James  was  insistent  that  she  should  express  deep  regret 
for  the  mistake.  I  had  settled  to  be  near  my  hostess  when 
the  guests  arrived,  but  had  just  conveyed  an  old  lady  to  a 
sofa  when  the  two  young  men  made  their  appearance.  I 
rushed  back  to  my  hostess,  and  was  just  in  time  to  hear 
Lepel  Griffin  introduce  his  companion  with  "  This,  Lady 
Outram,  is  '  Wallah  No.  1,'  "  and,  bowing  low,  continue, 
"  and  I  am  '  Wallah  No.  2.'  "  Dear  old  Sir  James  then 
came  up,  and  the  hosts  were  full  of  kindness  and  apologies, 
which  were  of  course  accepted  with  much  amusement  and 
delight  by  the  two  young  civilians.  Sir  James  Outram 
fought  manfully  for  two  years  with  the,  to  him,  hateful 
climate  of  Calcutta.  He  was  present  at  the  memorable 
dinner  given  to  Lord  Canning  by  Mr  Wilson,  noticed  later, 
and  resigned  soon  afterwards,  and  like  many  of  those  present 
on  the  occasion,  died  within  a  couple  of  years  of  the  event. 
Grand,  chivalrous  old  man !  He  well  deserved  his  name  of 
the  Bayard  of  India,  and  all  who  knew  him  regarded  him 
with  the  greatest  admiration  and  respect.  It  will  be  well 
understood  what  a  pride  it  was  to  me  to  be  permitted  to 
know  this  distinguished  and  delightful  character,  and  with 
what  regret  I  read  during  my  first  year's  service  in  the 
Central  Provinces  of  his  too  early  death.  For,  without 
claiming  to  be  young,  I  am,  thank  God,  still  enjoying  life. 
And  the  great  Sir  James  Outram,  at  the  time  of  his  death, 
was  more  than  ten  years  younger  than  I  now  am. 

Sir  Bartle  Frere,  who  3at  in  Lord  Canning's  Council  with 
Outram,  was  also  an  officer  from  the  Bombay  side.  He, 
too,  had  known  my  uncle,  Sir  James  Rivett-Carnac,  when 


42  ARRIVAL    IN    INDIA,    AND    LIFE    IN    CALCUTTA 

Governor  of  Bombay,  and  was  ready  to  extend  a  welcome 
to  any  of  his  kin.  My  first  visit  to  the  Freres'  house  in 
Chowringhee  is  one  of  the  incidents  of  my  life  which,  as  I 
have  said,  has  remained,  so  to  speak,  photographed  on  my 
mind  and  recollection.  As  befitted  a  Member  of  Council, 
Sir  Bartle  Frere,  who  always  did  everything  well,  had  taken 
one  of  the  finest  houses  in  Calcutta.  Before  my  hostess 
appeared,  I  had  time  after  my  entry  to  look  around  the 
room,  and  to  gather  some  idea  of  its  owners.  It  was 
certainly  unlike  anything  I  had  seen  since  leaving  home. 
The  day  was  a  bright  pleasant  one  of  the  cold  weather — 
hot  outside,  lazy  and  balmy  within.  The  furniture,  I  noticed, 
was  not  of  the  solid  mahogany,  early  Victorian  style  of  that 
of  the  house  I  had  just  left  on  my  visiting-round,  and  I  had 
not  to  steer  between  islands  of  massive  couches  and  heavily 
upholstered  arm-chairs  and  colossal  round  tables.  Every- 
thing was  light,  cool,  and  graceful.  Even  the  usual  door- 
swung-parallelogram-punkah  monstrosity  had  been  replaced 
by  an  arrangement  in  flounces  which  appeared  almost 
aesthetic.  That  drawing-room  as  much  resembled  the  con- 
ventional Calcutta  interior,  to  which  I  had  become  accus- 
tomed, as  a  fine  solid  Victorian  arm-chair,  well  upholstered 
in  black  horse-hair,  resembles  a  dainty  Louis  Quinze  fau- 
teuil  covered  with  delicate  tapestry.  Whilst  I  awaited  my 
hostess,  I  found  the  last  number  of  the  '  Revue  des  Deux 
Mondes '  on  a  small  table  near  a  comfortable  chair,  and  had 
just  opened  it  when  Lady  Frere  appeared.  From  that  day 
until  I  left  Calcutta,  Sir  Bartle  and  Lady  Frere  never 
failed  to  send  me  a  number  of  the  '  Revue  des  Deux 
Mondes '  as  soon  as  the  mail  brought  a  new  one  to 
replace  it. 

Lady  Frere  was  exactly  what  her  room  had  led  me  to 
expect,  and  I  found  myself  in  the  presence  of  the  perfect 
hostess  and  accomplished  lady  who,  for  long  years,  was  to 
be  one  of  my  kindest  and  most  valued  friends.  That  morn- 
ing Sir  Bartle  was  absent  in  Council.  But  I  was  bidden 
to  come  to  dinner  in  the  evening,  and  to  see  for  the  first 


SIR    BARTLE    FRERE  43 

time  the  man  whom  I  was  to  admire  from  henceforth,  with 
a  boyish  enthusiasm,  as  an  ornament  to  the  service,  and  as 
one  of  the  most  fascinating  men  it  was  ever  my  good 
fortune  to  meet.  At  that  time  Sir  Bartle  Frere  was  just 
forty-five  years  of  age.  He  had  recently  received  the  Knight 
Commandership  of  the  Bath  for  his  splendid  services  in  Sindh 
during  the  Mutiny,  and  all  in  Calcutta,  from  Lord  Canning 
downwards,  were  inclined  to  regard  him  as  a  man  of  ex- 
ceptional brilliancy  and  strength.  His  looks  were  greatly 
in  his  favour,  and  when  he  entered  the  room  one  was  at 
once  prepossessed  by  the  graceful  dignified  figure  of  the  man, 
with  a  head  like  that  of  a  Konkani  Brahmin,  and  delicate 
well-cut  features.  He  looked  thoroughly  well-bred,  and  was 
quite  free  from  the  ponderous  pomposity  of  some  of  the  local 
big-wigs.  He  was  always  carefully  well  dressed.  In  a  word, 
he  reminded  me  of  the  dignified  diplomats  I  had  seen  before 
leaving  home ;  and  I  remember  deciding  in  my  mind  that  he 
was  just  the  type  of  man  I  should  select  as  Cardinal,  had  I 
anything  to  do  with  the  Sacred  College.  When  he  spoke, 
the  fascinating  effect  of  his  presence  was  increased  by  a 
voice  as  gentle  as  it  was  insinuating.  And  he  possessed  an 
extraordinary  knack  of  appearing  to  take  real  interest  in 
everyone  and  everything,  which,  so  far  as  everything  was 
concerned,  was  not  unnatural,  as  there  was  hardly  a  subject, 
small  or  great,  with  which  he  had  not  some  acquaintance, 
and  of  which  he  had  not  some  information  to  impart  in  a 
pleasant  manner  without  making  one  feel  an  utter  ignoramus. 
When  one  came  to  deal  with  him,  one  soon  realised  that 
beneath  that  amiable  and  sympathetic  manner  there  was 
great  stiength,  determination,  and  vigour,  the  same  that  had 
pulled  Sindh  through  in  the  troublous  days  of  the  Mutiny, 
and  which  had  earned  for  him  so  much  distinction.  Of 
this  most  distinguished  man  it  was  my  good  fortune  to  see 
much  in  later  times,  and  frequently  to  enjoy  his  society  and 
hospitality,  as  these  notes  will  record. 

With  these,  and  other  pleasant  friends,  my  time  passed 
cheerily  enough.     Having  been  a  good  deal  abroad,  I  was, 


44  ARRIVAL    IN    INDIA,    AND    LIFE    IN    CALCUTTA 

I  suppose,  rather  cosmopolitan  in  my  views,  and  very 
bumptious,  I  have  no  doubt.  Being  devoted  to  Germany, 
I  got  admitted  to  the  German  Club,  and  long  retained  there 
friends  who  saw  that  I  always  had  a  full  supply  of  sound 
hock  at  reasonable  prices.  In  this  way  I  got  to  know  all 
the  merchants,  and  many  others  who  were  regarded  some- 
what as  outsiders  by  the  stiff  ancient  civilians  of  the  old 
school.  Being  able  to  dwell  on  the  delights  of  the  Tyrol, 
I  was  taken  up  soon  after  my  arrival  by  no  less  a  person- 
age than  Major  Malleson,  the  author  of  the  Red  Pamphlet, 
then  a  person  of  much  consequence  in  Calcutta  society. 
And  my  having  seen  many  of  the  galleries  of  the  Continent, 
and  being  thus  able  to  recognise  some  of  the  copies  of  the 
old  masters  in  his  collection,  early  secured  for  me  the  favour 
and  friendship  of  Colonel  Nassau  Lees,  the  Persian  scholar, 
the  head  of  our  so-called  college,  and  the  examiner  before 
whom  we  had  to  appear  monthly.  I  was  constantly  his 
guest  at  his  small  select  dinner-parties,  and  acted  as  a 
sort  of  "  solo  chorus  "  in  dilating,  with  the  aid  of  the  remem- 
brance of  some  of  Leighton's  and  Cockerell's  remarks,  on 
the  merits  of  the  great  painters  when  the  guests  were  taken 
round  the  collection  after  an  excellent  dinner.  "  My  dear 
boy,"  Lees  would  say  to  me,  "  I  fear  I  shall  really  be  obliged 
to  pass  you  at  the  next  examination.  You  have  been  quite 
a  time  now  in  college.  Your  munshi  says  you  are  quite  up 
to  standard  in  Hindustani.  Oh,  and  you  have  got  to  manage 
the  farewell  ball  to  Lord  Clyde  next  month,  have  you  ? 
And  if  you  are  passed,  you  will  have  to  be  absent  ?  Well, 
I  will  see  if  you  can  be  spared  this  time.  But  understand, 
you  must  absolutely  not  ask  for  any  further  chance.  It 
cannot  really  be  done.  I  must  pass  you."  For  I  had  taken 
with  great  zest  to  the  management  of  the  balls  and  fetes, 
and  had  received  practically  carte  blanche  from  the  inevit- 
able and  nominal  committee,  of  which  I  had  been  elected 
Secretary ;  and  to  be  passed,  which  would  mean  leaving 
Calcutta,  was  a  terrifying  prospect.  One  of  my  actions,  by 
which   I   hoped  to  be  handed   down    to   posterity,  was  the 


LORD    CLYDE  45 

formation  in  Calcutta  of  a  town-band.  For  all  the  dances 
and  other  functions  we  had  hitherto  been  dependent  on 
the  band  of  the  regiment  in  the  Fort,  which  was  not  always 
available,  or  on  a  half-caste  crew  from  the  bazaar.  The 
arrival  in  Calcutta  of  eight  German  musicians,  of  which 
I  got  news  at  the  German  Club,  induced  me  to  propound 
to  their  leader  a  scheme  for  a  band,  of  which  my  eight 
Germans  were  to  form  the  nucleus,  supplemented  by  a 
dozen  East  Indians,  who,  if  properly  conducted,  could  play 
decently  enough.  My  scheme  was  warmly  supported  by  the 
Right  Hon.  James  Wilson,  the  Financial  Minister  recently 
sent  out  from  England,  and  by  his  family,  who  were  very 
fond  of  music  ;  by  my  cousin  Temple,  one  of  the  leading 
civilians  of  the  day,  who  will  figure  as  chief  personage  in 
these  recollections,  and  who  had  just  been  brought  down  from 
Lahore  to  be  secretary  to  the  great  man ;  and  by  several 
others.  The  idea  soon  took  shape,  and  secured  for  Cal- 
cutta a  band  which  is  still  kept  up,  though  my  good  Germans 
and  most  of  the  original  crew  have  probably  long  since  all 
joined  the  majority. 

The  farewell  ball  to  Lord  Clyde,  who  had  come  to  Cal- 
cutta on  the  way  home  after  his  successful  campaign  up- 
country,  duly  came  off,  and  to  me  fell  the  honour  of  man- 
agement. It  was  a  labour  of  love,  as  I  knew  the  dear 
old  man  well,  and  had  often  seen  him  at  our  house  both 
before  and  after  the  Crimean  War,  he  being  an  intimate 
friend  of  my  father's.  During  his  stay  in  Calcutta  at 
Government  House,  Lord  Clyde  had  me  over  several  times, 
and  took  me  out  with  him,  calling  me  his  civilian  aide-de- 
camp. He  was  good  enough  to  pronounce  that  I  would 
make  an  excellent  aide-de-camp  in  time,  and  I  little  guessed 
in  those  days  that  I  was  to  be  an  aide-de-camp  eventually 
to  Sir  Donald  Stewart  when  Commander-in-Chief,  and  also 
to  their  Majesties  Queen  Victoria  and  King  Edward  VII. 
The  ball  was  a  great  success,  and  soon  afterwards  Nassau 
Lees  carried  out  his  threat  and  passed  me  at  the  examina- 
tion, so  that  I  had  to  be  appointed  to  an  assistant  magis- 


46  ARRIVAL   IN    INDIA,    AND    LIFE    IN    CALCUTTA 

tracy  in  the  districts,  being  no  longer  a  "  Lance  Civilian." 
This  meant  farewell  to  Calcutta.  Before  leaving,  however, 
I  was,  by  good  chance,  present  at  what  was  quite  a  historical 
banquet  given  by  the  Right  Hon.  James  Wilson,  the  Finance 
Minister,  to  Lord  Canning.  Never  before  had  the  Viceroy 
been  known  to  accept  an  invitation  from  the  outside,  and 
the  exception  made  on  this  occasion,  which  was  much 
canvassed  in  Calcutta,  was  attributed  to  the  exceptional 
position  held  by  Mr  Wilson,  who,  besides  being  a  Privy 
Councillor,  was  supposed  to  be  invested  with  some  special 
powers  by  the  Home  Government.  The  parly  was  to  be 
small  and  most  select,  none  of  the  personages  invited  being 
attended  by  any  member  of  their  staff  save  in  the  case  of 
the  Governor  -  General,  who  was  to  bring  with  him  his 
private  secretary. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  I  went  over  to  Mr  Wilson's  house 
regarding  some  arrangements  to  be  made  for  the  town-band, 
which  was  to  play  during  dinner,  and  found  the  establish- 
ment greatly  exercised  in  consequence  of  an  unforeseen 
contretemps.  Temple,  who,  being  Mr  Wilson's  chief  secre- 
tary, was  to  attend  the  banquet,  as  was  also  Mr  Wilson's 
son  -  in  -  law  and  private  secretary,  William  Halsey,  had 
written  to  say  he  had  had  a  bad  accident,  had  sprained 
his  ankle,  and  could  not  possibly  get  over  to  dinner.  The 
table  was  all  laid  :  fourteen  places  —  a  dangerous  number 
always.  There  was  thus  the  chance  of  a  party  of  thirteen, 
which,  if  possible,  must  be  avoided.  I  was  then  told  that 
it  was  absolutely  necessary  that  I  should  attend  as  a 
quatorzihne.  I  protested  against  the  idea,  as  no  one 
present  would  be  under  the  rank  of  a  Member  of  Council 
with  the  exception  of  the  two  private  secretaries  of  the 
two  great  men.  But  it  was  insisted  that  I  must  save  the 
situation  by  filling  the  vacant  place.  I  had  not  much  more 
than  time  to  get  back  to  the  club  and  dress,  and  returning 
to  the  house  found  the  staircase  lined  with  men  of  the  body- 
guard, and  all  preparations  complete  for  the  biggest  function 
known  in  Calcutta  for  long  years  past.     The  fourteen  who 


A    MEMORABLE    DINNER-PARTY  47 

sat  down  to  table  that  evening  were  Mr  Wilson,  Lord 
Canning,  Lord  Clyde,  Sir  Hugh  Rose  (afterwards  Lord 
Strathnairn),  who  had  just  arrived  to  relieve  Lord  Clyde, 
Sir  John  Peter  Grant,  Lieutenant-Governor  of  Bengal,  the 
Chief  Justice,  Sir  Barnes  Peacock,  Dr  Cotton,  the  Bishop  of 
Calcutta,  Sir  James  Outram,  Sir  Bartle  Frere,  Mr  Ritchie,  and 
Sir  Cecil  Beadon,  members  of  the  Supreme  Council.  These, 
with  the  two  private  secretaries  and  myself,  made  up  the 
party.  An  unfledged  assistant  magistrate,  such  as  was  I, 
was  truly  out  of  place  in  such  a  gathering  of  notables,  and 
there  were  several  good-natured  smiles  at  my  appearance  in 
this  august  assembly.  The  Lieutenant-Governor  of  Bengal, 
in  whose  Province  I  was  to  serve,  was  then  Sir  John  Peter 
Grant,  a  delightful  man,  beloved  by  all  those  who  knew 
him,  but  who  had  the  character  of  being  just  a  trifle 
original.  He  was  distinctly  unconventional  in  some  mat- 
ters. It  was  related  of  him,  not  to  his  discredit,  that, 
like  Diogenes,  he  loved  to  sit  in  his  tub,  and  that,  on  warm 
days,  he  transacted  urgent  business  with  his  secretaries 
whilst  enveloped  in  a  bath  of  colossal  dimensions.  Ordin- 
arily he  preferred  doing  his  work  at  night,  and  he  kept  to 
his  bed  during  the  day.  I  had  dined  several  times  at  Gov- 
ernment House,  but  had  never  yet  had  speech  of  the  great 
man.  When  I  was  talking  to  old  Lord  Clyde  before  dinner, 
I  saw  my  Governor  eyeing  me  in  his  good-natured  whimsical 
way,  as  much  as  to  say,  "Who  the  devil  are  you,  my  young 
person,  and  what  the  deuce  are  you  doing  here,  I  should  like 
to  know  ?  "  I  suppose  he  ascertained  during  dinner  who  I 
was,  as  later,  when  we  were  in  the  drawing-room,  he  came 
up  to  me  with  a  good-natured  twinkle  in  his  eye  and  said 
in  a  cheery  way,  "  I  was  much  exercised  to  find  out  who 
the  distinguished  stranger  was  who  was  seated  opposite  to 
me  at  dinner,  and  I  now  learn  that  it  is  Mr  Rivett-Carnac." 
I  bowed,  and  said,  "That  is  me,  sir."  "Ah,"  replied  he, 
"  you  have  forgotten  your  '  Ingoldsby  Legends,' "  upon 
which  I  hastened  to  assure  him  that  I  was  quite  sound 
as  to  my  grammar  in  general,  but  that  my  nerve  had  for- 


48  ARRIVAL    IN    INDIA,    AND    LIFE    IN    CALCUTTA 

saken  me  on  being  addressed  by  a  Lieutenant-Governor.  He 
good-naturedly  accepted  the  explanation,  and  proceeded, 
"But  which  Mr  Rivett-Carnac  ?  there  are  several  of  the 
name ;  there  is  the  excellent  magistrate  at  Dacca,  who  be- 
haved so  pluckily  during  the  Mutiny  there."  I  explained 
that  he  was  my  cousin,  and  the  great  man  said  he  hoped 
I  was  like  him.  "  But,"  continued  he,  "  there  is  yet 
another  Mr  Rivett-Carnac ;  I  think  I  passed  an  order  but 
a  few  days  ago  appointing  him  Assistant  -  Magistrate  at 
Midnapore."  "That  is  I,  sir,"  I  humbly  made  answer, 
remembering  my  grammar  and  the  Rheims  Jackdaw,  and 
proceeded  to  explain  my  presence  among  the  magnates  by 
the  urgent  need  of  a  quatorzieme  to  fill  the  vacant  place. 
"  Well,"  continued  he,  "  I  shall  rate  my  staff  for  never 
having  introduced  me  to  so  important  a  personage  as  your- 
self. But  you  must  come  and  dine  with  me  quietly  to- 
morrow. I  cannot  ask  all  these  big-wigs  to  meet  you 
again,  but  you  will  see  what  I  am  sure  you  will  like  much 
better,  my  pretty  niece  and  some  other  young  ladies,  and 
you  can  all  go  on  to  the  ball  together  afterwards."  And 
I  did  not  fail  to  attend  that  dinner-party,  and  Sir  John 
Peter  Grant  was  good  to  me  ever  afterwards,  and  always 
had  a  cheery  word  in  regard  to  my  importance  and  presence 
at  great  banquets.  I  do  not  suppose  that  the  fact  of  our 
having  been  fourteen  at  table  had  much  to  do  with  it,  but 
death  made  sad  havoc,  though  not  perhaps  within  the  year, 
among  those  present  at  that  banquet.  Mr  Wilson,  our  host, 
died  from  cholera  during  the  following  hot  weather.  Sir  J. 
Outram,  Mr  Ritchie,  the  Bishop,  Lord  Clyde,  and  Lord 
Canning  followed  not  long  afterwards.  They  were,  it  is 
true,  all  middle  -  aged  men.  All  the  other  guests  are  long 
since  dead,  except  Mr  Bowring,1  then  Lord  Canning's 
private  secretary,  and  myself. 

1  Mr  L.  Bowring,  C.S.I.,  now  in  his  eighty-sixth  year. 


49 


CHAPTER    III. 

IN    THE    MOFUSSIL,    MIDNAPORE,    AND   THE    INCOME-TAX 
COMMISSION. 

l86l. 

Appointed  Assistant  -  Magistrate  at  Midnapore — Mr  F.  R.  Cockerell — 
My  work  there — A  dacoity  case — Bears — Visit  to  Calcutta — Mrs 
Monty:  Turnbull :  her  salon  and  its  terrors — The  Income-Tax  Com- 
mission— Appointed  Secretary  to  Commission — Press  criticism — 
Shoe  Question  and  truculent  Babus — They  answer  it  for  themselves 
— Appointed  Under-Secretary  in  the  Home  Department — Red  office- 
box — Political  uniform — Trap  for  a  gobe-mouche — My  new  work — 
Anxieties  with  first  despatch — Lord  Canning  on  my  handwriting — 
Appointed  Joint-Magistrate  at  Burdwan — Our  pleasant  life  there 
— Arrival  of  Lord  Elgin — Reception  held  in  Calcutta — Cholera — 
Colonel  Denny  attacked — No  medical  aid  available — Incident  at 
mail-train — Doctor  refuses  to  come — Death  of  Colonel  Denny — 
Indignation  in  Calcutta — Orders  by  the  Viceroy  on  duties  of  med- 
ical officers — Temple  appointed  Chief  Commissioner  of  the  Central 
Provinces  —  Offers  me  post  of  Assistant- Secretary — Farewell  to 
civilisation ! 

In  the  Mofussil. 

As  the  Lieutenant  -  Governor  had  told  me  at  the  banquet 
above  described,  I  was  appointed  Assistant  -  Magistrate  of 
Midnapore  "  on  qualifying  for  the  public  service."  Midna- 
pore was  the  station  of  my  desires.  It  was  not  very  far  from 
Calcutta,  and  had  what  was  termed  an  almost  "  up-country  " 
climate, — dry,  not  damp  like  Lower  Bengal,  as  it  lay  to  the 
west,  had  a  range  of  hills  of  its  own,  with  fine  jungles,  where 
even  bears  and  panthers  might  occasionally  be  met.  The 
Collector  had  the  character  of  being  one  of  the  best  offi- 
cers in  the  Lower  Bengal  service.     Frank  Cockerell — "old 

D 


50  IN    THE    MOFUSSIL,    MIDNAPORE,    ETC. 

Squares,"  as  he  was  generally  called — was  a  cousin  of  him 
of  the  Giotto  Chapel,  and  of  Horace  and  Roland  Cockerell, 
a  pair  of  brothers,  quite  the  most  distinguished,  most  pleas- 
ant and  popular  of  the  civilians  in  the  service.  They  were 
both  by  several  years  my  seniors ;  but  I  had  become  intimate 
with  them  during  my  stay  in  Calcutta,  and  they  were  pleased 
to  take  an  interest  in  me,  and  decide  that  I  ought  to  be 
posted  to  Midnapore  under  "  old  Squares."  So  to  him  did 
they  write,  vaunting  my  high  moral  qualities,  with  the  result 
that  Squares  actually  addressed  the  Secretariat  begging  that 
I  might  be  sent  to  him.  And  sent  I  was.  My  friends,  the 
brothers,  said,  "  We  are  sure  you  will  get  on  with  old 
Squares.  We  would  not  have  suggested  you  if  we  were 
not  quite  confident  of  that."  And  the  Secretary  to  Govern- 
ment chimed  in  with,  "  Well,  if  he  satisfies  old  Square-toes, 
he  will  about  do." 

My  arrival  at  Midnapore  in  the  early  morning  of  a  hot- 
weather  day  is  another  of  the  events  of  my  life  remaining 
distinctly  photographed  on  my  brain.  I  had  been  jogging 
along  all  night  in  the  palanquin  of  those  days,  and  woke 
up  on  the  vehicle  being  suddenly  plumped  down  on  the 
ground.  Rubbing  my  eyes,  I  found  myself  in  front  of  a 
large  house,  on  the  broad  verandah  of  which  a  grim-looking 
middle  -  aged  personage  was  seated  at  a  breakfast  -  table, 
employed  in  opening  a  number  of  letters.  He  rose  as  I 
tumbled  out  of  the  palki,  and  I  stood  in  front  of  the  man 
who  was  to  be  for  a  time  my  master,  and  ever  my  most 
valued  friend.  He  certainly  did  look  just  a  little  bit  grim, 
rectangular  and  starchy,  and  deserving  of  his  nickname  of 
"  Squares."  And  his  manner  was  hardly  at  first  what  one 
would  term  extremely  cordial  or  encouraging.  He  was  ever 
somewhat  ceremonious — not  a  bad  quality,  however.  But  by 
the  time  we  had  had  tea  and  discussed  the  weather,  he  unbent 
just  a  little  bit,  and  by  evening  we  were  quite  on  amicable, 
if  not  intimate,  terms.  It  was  arranged  that  I  should  share 
the  big  house  with  my  new  master,  who  had  hitherto  declined 
to  admit  any  "  chum."     And,  notwithstanding  the  difference 


A    DACOITY   CASE  5 1 

in  our  ages,  the  arrangement  worked  excellently,  and  as  his 
stiffness  wore  off  by  degrees,  we  became  in  due  course  firm 
friends.  Old  Squares  was  really  one  of  the  best  of  men, 
as  well  as  one  of  the  ablest  of  magistrates.  It  would  have 
been  difficult  not  to  learn  one's  work  thoroughly  under  so 
good  a  master.  And  I  certainly  did  take  to  my  work,  and 
satisfied  even  a  rather  exacting  superior.  Having  idled  so 
long  in  Calcutta,  I  suppose  I  must  have  been  glad  to  get 
at  last  to  some  interesting  work,  and  to  be  steadied  by  some 
real  responsibility.  Cockerell  made  me  go  carefully  through 
every  detail  of  the  Collector's  and  Magistrate's  office,  and 
gave  me  the  most  patient  aid  and  wholesome  encourage- 
ment. I  was  made  a  special  assistant  to  him  in  working 
the  income  -  tax  in  the  district,  an  innovation  due  to  Mr 
Wilson's  budget.  And  my  magistrate  duly  introduced  me 
to  the  bears,  of  which  Midnapore  could  boast  a  few  in  those 
days  in  its  jungles.  On  one  memorable  occasion,  when  we 
were  in  camp,  partly  after  bears,  he  unselfishly  gave  me  a 
great  dacoity  case  to  work  out  all  to  myself,  and  told  me 
to  go  in  and  win  my  official  spurs.  We  had  changed  camp 
unexpectedly,  and  a  band  of  dacoits,  not  suspecting  our 
whereabouts,  attacked  a  village  in  the  neighbourhood.  News 
was  brought  us  in  the  middle  of  the  night,  and  I  galloped  off 
at  once  with  the  head  of  the  native  police,  who  happened  to 
be  in  our  camp,  and  had  the  satisfaction  eventually  of  getting 
hold  not  only  of  the  poor  Gondhs l  who  had  committed  the 
robbery,  but  also  of  the  receivers,  rich  liquor-sellers,  who  had 
the  poor  creatures  in  their  debt,  and  had  put  them  up  to, 
and  made  them  commit,  the  dacoity.  Cockerell  allowed  me 
to  work  the  case  up  and  prosecute  it  at  the  sessions  in  the 
Judge's  Court,  and  two  rich  men,  the  receivers,  important 
personages  in  the  district,  were  convicted  and  transported. 
Some  time  after,  when  I  was  in  Calcutta,  acting  as  Under- 
Secretary  there,  one  of  the  High  Court  Judges,  who  had  heard 
and  dismissed  the  case  on  appeal,  came  up  to  me  and  told  me 
he  had  seldom  seen  a  case  more  fully  proved  right  up  to  the  hilt. 

1  Wild  hill-tribe. 


52  IN    THE    MOFUSSIL,    MIDNAPORE,    ETC. 

All  this  and  much  more  did  I  owe  to  the  guidance  of  my 
good  friend  and  preceptor,  old  Squares.  For  when  I  had 
been  nearly  a  year  at  work,  and  had  earned  a  report  on  my 
efficiency  which,  egotistical  as  is  this  book,  I  should  not 
dare  to  put  into  print,  I  went  up  to  Calcutta  for  a  change, 
and  found  some  local  excitement  about  the  appointment  of 
Secretary  to  the  Income -Tax  Commission.  The  tax  was 
the  chief  plank  in  Mr  Wilson's  financial  scheme,  and  had 
been  introduced  in  the  face  of  much  opposition.  A  care- 
fully chosen  Commission,  composed  of  merchants,  officials, 
European  and  Indian,  with  a  dozen  picked  assessors,  had 
been  appointed  not  only  to  manage  the  Act  in  Calcutta, 
but  to  control  its  working  in  other  parts  of  India.  A  well- 
known  man,    L ,   who    had   once   been   a   merchant    in 

Calcutta,  had  been  appointed  Secretary  to  the  Commission. 
The  appointment  caused  some  comment  at  the  time,  and 
just  before  my  visit  to  Calcutta  a  despatch  had  been  received 
from  the  Secretary  of  State  ordering  that  the  appointment 
should  be  cancelled.  A  new  man  had  to  be  chosen,  who, 
in  the  existing  state  of  feeling  in  India  against  the  tax, 
and  about  the  appointment  itself,  would  have  no  easy  time 
of  it.  One  of  the  most  remarkable  persons  in  Calcutta  in 
those  days  was  Mrs  Monty:  Turnbull,  wife  of  Monty:,  the 
most  popular  of  sporting  colonels,  who  had  won  the  Cal- 
cutta Derby  with  that  most  glorious  of  Arabs,  old  Hermit. 
She  was  an  acknowledged  "  character."  The  daughter  of 
Apperley,  "Nimrod"  of  the  preceding  generation,  she  had 
inherited  all  her  father's  knowledge  of,  and  love  for,  animals. 
She  had  in  Calcutta  what  was  as  nearly  as  possible  a  salon, 
tempered  with  the  chance  of  one's  great  toe  being  nibbled 
or  one's  leg  damaged  during  the  evening  by  some  squirrel 
from  Zanzibar,  or  by  some  other  wild  beast  that  had  strolled 
from  the  menagerie  in  the  adjoining  back  drawing-room, 
and  which  would  attack  a  guest  quite  independently  of  his 
having  any  special  scientific  interest  in  the  particular  species. 
At  her  parties  were  to  be  met  what  she  claimed  to  be  the 
most  interesting  people  in  Calcutta.     She  was  an  excellent 


MRS    MONTY:    TURNBULL  53 

artist  and  good  musician,  so  all  of  artistic  temperament  were 
welcomed.  The  distinguished  Roman  Catholic  Archbishop, 
the  learned  Jesuit  Father  La  Font,  and  many  others  were 
to  be  met  at  her  house.  And  there  also  came  Arthur 
Grote,  the  brother  of  the  historian,  and  head  of  the  Board 
of  Revenue  and  President  of  the  Asiatic  Society,  who 
was  one  of  her  great  allies.  Although  his  tastes  lay  in 
the  line  of  rare  plants  and  flowers  rather  than  in  birds, 
beasts,  and  fishes,  he  might  be  seen  there  having  as  com- 
panion the  Superintendent  of  the  Botanical  Gardens,  whom 
he  had  driven  down  to  the  house.  He  was  known  occa- 
sionally to  produce  at  these  periodical  parties  men  with 
specimens  of  strange  bugs,  and  now  and  again  equally 
strange  foreigners,  who  had  come  out  with  introductions  to 
the  President  of  the  Asiatic  Society.  Besides  her  salon 
Mrs  Monty:  used  to  give  Sunday  luncheon-parties,  to  which 
Monty:  was  permitted  to  invite  one  or  two  horsey  friends 
with  whom  to  discuss  '  Ruff's  Guide,'  and  thus  to  leaven 
the  scientific  lot.  To  be  admitted  to  these  parties  was,  on 
a  small  scale,  rather  like  the  admission  to  Holland  House 
of  days  gone  by,  and  I  considered  myself  highly  favoured 
at  being  occasionally  invited  as  a  Sunday  guest.  Seeing 
me  riding  on  the  course  soon  after  my  return  to  Calcutta, 
Mrs  Monty:  had  sent  me  an  invitation  to  the  next  Sunday 
"  tiffin," 1  and  there  in  due  course  I  found  myself  seated 
among  some  of  the  foremost  personages  of  Calcutta.  Grote, 
already  mentioned,  head  of  the  Board  of  Revenue  and  also 
President  of  the  Income-Tax  Commission,  was  present,  and 

1  "  Tiffin,"  though  popularly  supposed  to  be  a  word  of  impurely  Indian  extraction, 
is,  as  a  fact,  a  good  old  British  word,  which,  with  some  others  still  used  by  our 
American  cousins,  were  carried  out  to  India  or  America  in  Queen  Elizabeth's  time, 
and,  though  lost  sight  of  in  the  old  country,  are  still  used  by  the  descendants  of 
the  colonists  or  adventurers  of  those  old  days.  Thus  Skeat  gives  "Tiffin"  as 
follows  : — 

"Tiffin" — luncheon  (Scand.)  An  Anglo-Indian  word,  but  originally  provincial 
English.  Wedgwood  says,  "It  is  the  North  country  'tiffing'  (properly  sipping), 
eating  or  drinking  out  of  due  season — Grose.  I  cannot  find  it  in  Grose  (ed.  1790), 
but  the  Lowland  Scotch  has  the  word  'tift,'  to  quaff,  from  the  sb.  'tift,'  a  drink  ; 
corresponding  to  which  we  should  have  provl.  'tiff,'  to  quaff;  whence  the  sb. 
'  tiffin '  =  '  tiffing,  a  quaffing,  a  drinking.'" 


54  IN    THE    MOFUSSIL,    MIDNAPORE,    ETC. 

he  was  asked  as  to  the  appointment  to  the  vacant  Secretary- 
ship, regarding  which  there  was  then  much  speculation. 
He  announced  that  Colin  Mackenzie  of  Portmore,  son  of 
Forbes  Mackenzie  of  liquor  law  fame,  had  been  selected, 
but  would  not  return  to  India  for  some  months  to  come. 
They  were  looking  out,  he  said,  for  a  man  to  officiate  in 
the  appointment.  "  Why  don't  you  take  this  boy  ? "  says 
the  impulsive  Mrs  Monty:,  indicating  me.  The  suggestion 
was  received  with  a  roar  of  laughter,  in  which  I  blush- 
ingly  joined.  Mrs  Monty:,  however,  was  not  to  be  sup- 
pressed, and  said  squarely  and  determinedly,  "  But,  my 
dear  Grote,  I  assure  you  he  would  do  excellently,"  and  she 
looked  so  grim  and  decided  that  the  laughter  was  not 
repeated.  Grote  good-naturedly  tried  to  turn  the  conversa- 
tion, but  not  until  a  testy  old  official  had  snarled  out,  "  But 
he'd  have  to  bring  his  wet-nurse  from  Midnapore  with 
him,  and  we  have  no  room  for  old  Squares  here."  I 
returned  to  Midnapore  the  next  day,  and  thought  no  more 
of  the  incident.  On  the  Wednesday  I  was  astonished  by 
Cockerell  coming  into  my  room  and  handing  me  a  tele- 
gram from  Government  directing  him  to  send  me  at  once 
to  Calcutta  to  act  as  Secretary  to  the  Income-Tax  Com- 
mission. I  left  not  without  much  regret,  but  elated  with 
the  prospect  of  so  good  a  post  after  less  than  a  year  in 
harness.  Grote  was  most  good  to  me,  and  so  were  most 
of  the  other  Commissioners  and  Assessors  —  the  latter  of 
whom  were  subordinate  to  the  Secretary,  who  was  also 
appointed  a  Special  Commissioner  under  the  Act.  At 
first  it  was  not  a  little  appalling,  having  to  sit  alone  in  a 
large  office-room  and  receive  there  great  merchants,  Indian 
and  European,  who  had  complaints  to  make  or  questions 
to  ask  about  the  unpopular  tax.  And  I  then  had  my  first 
introduction  to  Press  criticism.  The  appointment  was  much 
debated.  Luckily  I  had  always  been  on  very  good  terms 
with  most  of  the  merchants,  British  and  foreign,  and  their 
organ  treated  me  tenderly.  The  other  side,  however, 
favoured   me  with   some   rather   severe   and   personal  criti- 


INCOME-TAX   COMMISSION  55 

cism.  And  I  had  the  pleasure  of  reading  that  "  the 
Government  having  already  succeeded  in  making  this 
iniquitous  tax  unpopular,  there  was  nothing  left  to  them 
but  to  make  it  utterly  and  contemptuously  ridiculous.  And 
in  this  they  had  succeeded  beyond  expectation  by  appoint- 
ing a  Secretary  to  the  hated  Commission — a  young  civilian 
who,  not  having  yet  passed  the  second  Departmental 
Examination,  is  still  in  official  swaddling-clothes."  All  of 
which  interesting  remarks  were,  I  knew,  read  in  the  ad- 
joining room  by  the  assessors,  most  of  whom  were  old 
enough  to  be  my  parents,  and  commented  upon  approvingly. 
For  why,  indeed,  had  not  one  of  them  been  selected  for 
the  post  ?  My  youthful  appearance,  too,  was,  I  fear,  rather 
a  joke  among  the  elderly  assessors,  and  did  not  altogether 
impress  the  natives  who  had  to  come  before  me  to  lodge 
their  appeals.  Soon  after  I  had  taken  charge  of  the  office 
a  question  presented  itself  which  gave  me  no  little 
anxiety,  as  it  was  specially  necessary  that  I  should  not  be 
represented  by  the  native  Press  as  a  young  person  from 
the  districts  bringing  with  him  the  cast-iron  conservative 
notions  and  prejudices  of  the  very  conservative  Civil 
Service  —  some  of  which,  young  as  I  was,  I  had  had 
sufficient  time  to  imbibe.  The  question  was  the  so-called 
"  Shoe  Question,"  which  had  for  some  time  past  been  exer- 
cising the  European  and  Native  Press — that  is,  whether  a 
native  should  remove  his  shoes  when  entering  the  presence 
of  a  European  ?  One  morning  some  half  a  dozen  repre- 
sentatives of  native  firms  appeared  in  my  office  to  present 
petitions  of  appeal  against  the  surcharge  orders  of  the 
assessors.  I  noticed  that  these  men  all  wore  native  slippers, 
with  which  they  flopped  about  the  place  in  a  clumsy  and 
noisy  manner.  In  the  mofussil,  as  the  districts  are  called, 
my  training  had  been  altogether  hostile,  even  to  the  ad- 
mission of  natives  wearing  European  shoes — permitted  as 
a  concession  in  advanced  Calcutta ;  and  the  idea  of  a 
native  presenting  himself  with  the  flopping  native  slippers 
was   regarded  in  the  districts  as  utterly  impossible.      But, 


56  RETURN   TO    CALCUTTA 

fortunately,  I  did  not  hurriedly  express  my  indignation  and 
tell  an  orderly  to  ensure  that  the  slippers  were  immedi- 
ately and  forcibly  removed,  as  an  irate  magistrate  was  re- 
ported to  have  done  in  one  of  the  districts.  I  inquired 
courteously  from  the  Babus  whether  they  were  in  order  in 
entering  the  room  wearing  the  native  slippers  ?  They  one 
and  all  said  I  must  be  quite  ignorant  of  Calcutta  customs, 
and  must  have  brought  with  me  my  mofussil  (country)  ideas. 
The  removal  of  their  slippers  was  quite  out  of  the  question — 
an  indignity  to  which  no  self-respecting  Calcutta  Babu  could 
possibly  submit.  One  middle-aged  man  was  specially  truc- 
ulent. "  Did  I  really  intend  to  insist  on  this  absurdity  ? " 
he  asked.  "  Very  well ;  he  would  understand  thereby  that 
I  refused  to  accept  their  petitions  of  appeal.  They  could 
all  quite  understand  that.  It  was  only  another  phase  of 
the  tyranny  of  this  iniquitous  Income-Tax  Act,  which  mis- 
management was  daily  making  more  and  more  odious.  He 
would  represent  my  action  to  the  Commissioners,  who, 
being  senior  men,  knew  something  of  the  country  and  the 
people  and  their  feelings.  And  the  matter  would  also  be 
fully  explained  to  the  native  Press."  It  will  be  seen,  then, 
that  in  those  days  even  the  Babu,  when  he  supposed  he 
had  a  weak  vessel  to  deal  with,  could  be  sufficiently  truc- 
ulent. I  thus  found  myself  on  the  brink  of  what  appeared 
to  threaten  to  be  a  serious  row.  The  tax  was  unpopular 
enough ;  and  the  President  and  the  Commissioners  were 
all  most  anxious  to  prevent  the  discussion  of  inconvenient 
questions,  or  to  do  anything  that  would  present  the  Com- 
mission in  an  unfavourable  aspect,  or  raise  any  point  that 
might  increase  its  unpopularity.  And  here  I  was,  doing 
what  might  be  considered  as  lighting  up  a  pretty  consider- 
able conflagration  !  Fortunately,  instead  of  acting  hastily, 
I  further  dissembled ;  and  saying  to  the  Babus  that  this 
was  a  serious  question  which  I  could  not  decide  myself, 
but  on  which  I  must  take  counsel,  I  begged  my  hecklers 
to  accompany  me  whilst  I  sought  the  room  of  one  of  the 
assessors,  who  was  a  few  doors  up  the  passage.     This  hap- 


THE    SHOE    QUESTION  57 

pened  to  be  my  friend,  the  Maharajah  Harendra  Krishna,  an 
Indian  nobleman  of  high  rank,  who  had  patriotically  joined 
the  Commission  as  an  assessor  to  assist  the  Government  in 
the  difficult  task  with  which  it  was  confronted.  I  opened  the 
door  of  the  room,  my  persecutors,  who  were  already  unduly 
triumphant,  closely  following  me.  At  the  table  was  seated 
this  imposing  Indian  noble.  As  they  came  into  the  room, 
all  my  following  intuitively  slipped  off  their  native  shoes 
at  the  threshold  and  approached  the  table.  I  told  the 
Maharajah  what  had  occurred,  and  of  my  wishing  to  con- 
sult him  as  to  whether  or  not  I  should  insist  on  these 
gentry  removing  their  slippers  when  they  entered  my  room. 
I  added:  "It  is  hardly  necessary,  Maharajah,  to  trouble 
you  now,  as  these  gentlemen  have  answered  the  question 
for  themselves.  Here  they  are,  and  there,  outside  the  door, 
are  their  shoes.  I  daresay  you  will  kindly  explain  to  them 
that  if  it  is  meet  and  proper  that  they  should  take  off  their 
shoes  on  entering  the  office  of  one  of  the  assessors,  it  is 
equally  becoming  for  them  to  do  so  when  they  are  ad- 
mitted to  the  room  of  a  Commissioner — which,  you  know, 
is  my  position  under  the  Act."  The  Babus  promptly  made 
for  the  door,  slipped  on  their  slippers,  and  hastily  left  the 
building.  But  they  made  no  complaint  of  me  to  the 
President  or  to  the  local  Press,  and  there  was  no  further 
shoe  difficulty  in  the  Income-Tax  Office  after  that  morning. 
My  friend  the  President  was  much  amused  at  Harendra 
Krishna's  relation  of  my  experience,  and  much  relieved 
that,  by  a  lucky  move,  the  raising  of  an  inconvenient 
question  had  fortunately  been  avoided.  Thus  supported 
by  Grote  and  some  merchant  friends,  I  got  along  well 
enough,  and  tried  to  look  as  old  and  judicial  as  possible 
when  I  had  to  sit  with  the  other  Commissioners  to  hear 
appeals.  When  my  friend  Colin  Mackenzie1  arrived,  after 
my  tenure  of  several  months,  the  Commissioners  were  very 
complimentary;    and  Grote  informed  me  that  the  Govern- 

1  Colin  James  Mackenzie  of  Portmore.     He  retired  early  from  the  service,  and 
was  Lord-Lieutenant  of  Fifeshire. 


58  IN    CALCUTTA   AGAIN 

ment  of  India  had  written  a  letter  highly  approving  of  my 
work,  and  that,  in  acknowledgment,  I  had  been  selected 
to  officiate  as  Under  -  Secretary  in  the  Home  Department, 
with  charge  of  the  Foreign  Department's  Office  during  the 
Viceroy's  absence  up-country. 

I  was,  of  course,  very  pleased.  But  if  I  had  been  wiser 
I  should  have  realised  that  I  was  going  unhealthily  fast. 
I  had  not  yet  been  at  work  a  full  year  and  a  half.  I  had 
had  little  mofussil  experience,  had  yet  an  examination  to 
pass,  and  had  already  been  named  for  two  Calcutta  ap- 
pointments. My  contemporaries,  who  were  assistant- 
magistrates  at  out -stations,  stared.  The  older  men  rather 
ignored  me,  making  sure  I  was  bumptious.  And  I  know 
now  that  it  would  have  been  much  better  for  me  to  have 
remained  another  couple  of  years  perfecting  myself  under 
old  Squares  in  district  work  at  Midnapore  rather  than  being 
employed  in  letting  off  fireworks  in  Calcutta. 

The  appointment  to  the  Secretariat  of  the  Home  Office, 
especially  with  the  temporary  work  of  the  Foreign  Office 
thrown  in,  much  delighted  my  vanity,  and,  I  doubt  not, 
made  me  more  than  ever  bumptious  and  objectionable. 
My  new  post  carried  with  it  the  honour  of  being  allowed 
the  use  of  one  of  the  red-and-gold  Foreign  Office  boxes,  a 
limited  number  of  which  had  been  brought  into  the  country 
in  the  time  of  Lord  Ellenborough.  It  added  immensely  to 
my  delight  and  dignity  to  be  able  to  drive  down  to  office 
daily  in  my  smart  buggy  with  this  red-and-gold  box  well 
in  evidence  at  my  feet.  This  and  other  failings  did  not 
escape  some  of  my  seniors  in  the  service  who  did  not  hold 
me  in  very  high  esteem,  and  some  of  whom  were  possibly 
not  a  little  jealous  of  my  good  fortune.  One  man,  a  good 
deal  my  senior,  whom  I  realised  bore  me  little  love,  sud- 
denly evinced  much  interest  in  my  prospects,  and  anxiously 
inquired  if  I  had  not  already  arranged  to  supply  myself 
with  the  blue  -  and  -  gold  uniform  of  an  Under-Secretary, 
such  as  befitted  my  degree  ?  I  quite  realised  that  my 
appointment    was    temporary   only,   and    that    much    as    I 


TRAP   FOR   A    GOBE-MOUCHE  59 

should  have  loved  the  garb,  the  matter  was  quite  out  of 
the  question.  But  he  was  most  amiably  insistent  in  his 
unselfish  advice,  and  assured  me  it  was  quite  right,  and 
even  obligatory,  that  I  should  array  myself  in  the  longed- 
for  uniform  without  delay.  He  lived  in  chambers  adjoining 
mine  at  the  club,  and  he  would  most  affably  drop  in  before 
dinner  and  return  to  the  subject  in  which  he  evinced  special 
interest.  He  was  a  notorious  gobe-mouche,  and  it  seemed 
not  unfair  to  try  and  give  him  a  fall.  So,  at  last,  I  pretended 
to  be  somewhat  taken  with  the  soundness  of  his  arguments, 
and  promised  to  see  Ranken,  the  tailor,  on  the  subject,  who, 
my  friend  thought,  might  be  able  to  supply  a  full-dress 
uniform  second-hand.  Good  chance  arranged  for  me  that 
just  at  that  time  Temple,  my  cousin,  who  was  employed 
upon  the  Finance  Commission,  went  down  to  Burmah  on 
tour.  He  left  to  me  the  charge  of  his  horses  and  some  of 
his  chattels,  among  which  was  a  blue  -  and  -  gold  political 
uniform,  that  of  my  desires.  So  I  laid  a  trap  for  my  in- 
sistent counsellor  and  friend,  whom  I  expected  to  come  in 
on  his  usual  visit  before  dinner.  Temple's  paraphernalia 
were  therefore  laid  out  on  the  couch  in  my  sitting-room. 
These  I  covered  up  carefully  with  a  rug,  but  I  was  equally 
careful  to  allow  the  tell-tale  hilt  of  the  sword,  the  corner 
of  an  embroidered  sleeve,  and  the  end  of  the  gold-laced 
trousers  just  to  peep  out  from  below  the  cover;  and  the 
semicircular  proportions  of  the  cocked  -  hat  could  not  be 
mistaken  as  they  asserted  themselves  boldly  beneath  the 
covering.  Gobe  -  mouche  did  not  fail  in  his  visit,  and  the 
bait  took.  When  he  entered  I  was  discovered  nervously 
occupied  in  trying  to  cover  up  these  splendours ;  but  I 
threw  myself  into  an  arm-chair  and  pretended  to  be  deep 
in  the  '  Revue  des  Deux  Mondes.'  Gobe-mouche's  eagle  eye, 
however,  embraced  the  whole  situation  at  a  glance,  as  the 
tell-tale  contours  of  the  cocked-hat  would  have  baffled  even  the 
most  astute  measures  of  concealment.  A  gleam  of  intense 
satisfaction  overspread  his  fleshy  features,  and  he  ineffect- 
ually  attempted    to  cover   his   emotion    by   some   common- 


60  IN    CALCUTTA   AGAIN 

places  about  the  weather.  Then  he  rushed  away  to  dress 
for  dinner  and  undo  me.  I  had  a  notion  of  what  was  to 
happen,  and,  being  already  in  my  dress -clothes,  hurried  to 
the  billiard-lounge  of  the  club,  where  most  of  us  met  before 
dinner.  I  had  several  good  friends  among  the  audience, 
and  every  one  was  not  devoted  to  Gobe-monche.  So  I  told 
my  story,  warned  them  what  to  expect,  and,  retreating  to  a 
corner,  awaited  developments.  Gobe-mouche  duly  appeared, 
quite  excited  and  full  of  the  information  he  had  to  impart. 
"  You  know  they  have  appointed  that  young  ass  R.-C.  an 
Under-Secretary,  and  he  drives  down  daily  to  office  with 
a  red-and-gold  despatch-box.  Well,  I  have  been  trying  to 
persuade  him  for  some  days  past  that  he  should  rig  himself 
out  in  political  uniform.  Of  course  the  idea  is  too  pre- 
posterous. He  is  only  acting  temporarily  in  the  appoint- 
ment, and  if  it  becomes  permanent  I  am  much  senior  to 
him,  and  could  certainly,  I  am  sure,  have  it  if  I  liked. 
Well,  if  you  will  believe  me,  the  young  idiot,  in  his  vanity, 
has  actually  been  and  got  the  full  uniform.  I  was  in  his 
room  just  now  and  saw  it  all,  though  he  tried  to  hide  it." 
Then  there  arose  a  mighty  shout  from  among  the  company 
which  much  disconcerted  old  Gobe  -  mouche,  but  which  he 
understood  when  I  emerged  from  behind  the  newspaper 
and  mildly  remarked,  "  But,  my  dear  Gobe-mouche,  you  gave 
me  no  opportunity  of  explaining  that  the  uniform  you  so 
much  admired  was  Temple's,  which  he  left  in  my  care." 
Gobe  -  mouche  then  realised  I  was  not  quite  the  donkey  he 
supposed,  and  after  that  never  again  did  he  try  unpleasant 
conclusions  with  me. 

Entering  the  Secretariat,  I  was  to  come  under  a  very 
different  class  of  master  from  those  with  whom  I  had 
hitherto  served,  and  notwithstanding  all  the  dignity  and 
delights  of  the  red-and-gold  office-box,  my  daily  companion, 
I  had  some  quarters  of  an  hour  which  were  not  altogether 
pleasant.  Cockerell  as  Magistrate,  and  Grote  as  President 
of  the  Income  -  Tax  Commission,  had  had  great  patience 
with   me,   and    had    taken   much   trouble    to   teach   me   my 


AT   THE    HOME    OFFICE  6l 

work.  They  both  invited  me  to  go  to  them  at  all  times 
whenever  I  wanted  guidance  or  advice,  and  they  never 
failed  to  encourage  and  to  cheer  me  when  faced  with  some 
official  difficulty.  The  old  Secretary  in  the  Home  Depart- 
ment was  a  man  of  acknowledged  ability,  but  he  was  eminently 
dry,  unsympathetic,  and  official.  He  was  a  widower,  seldom 
went  out  anywhere,  and  seemed  to  live  only  for  office-boxes 
and  work.  I  realised  that  he  did  not  much  like  my  appoint- 
ment, which  was  due  to  Sir  Bartle  Frere's  recommendation 
to  Lord  Canning,  Sir  Bartle  being  Member  of  Council  in 
charge  of  the  Home  Department  at  the  time.  On  the  first 
morning  of  my  arrival  in  office,  I  was  received  into  the 
Secretary's  room  and  was  told  briefly  what  I  had  to  do. 
After  that  the  door  between  our  two  rooms  was  closed, 
and  it  was  understood  that  communications  were  to  be  on 
slips  of  paper.  Once  or  twice  when  I  attempted  to  break 
through  the  rule  my  reception  was  so  little  cordial  that 
I  gladly  returned  to  the  system  of  official  notes.  At  first 
I  was  painfully  impressed  with  the  responsibility  attaching 
to  my  out-turn  of  precis,  office  notes,  and  draft  despatches, 
believing  that  the  stability  of  the  Empire  depended  entirely 
thereon.  And  after  working  at  a  commonplace  despatch, 
re -correcting,  polishing  and  re -polishing,  it  was  sad  to  see 
my  composition  come  back  in  the  afternoon  from  the  next 
room  slashed  all  over  with  one  of  the  blue  pencils  that 
had  recently  been  introduced  into  the  Indian  official  system. 
The  Secretary  seemed  to  take  a  fiendish  delight  in  causing 
the  draft  to  look  as  hideous  as  possible,  scarring  it  with 
blue  pencil,  making  what  appeared  to  me  to  be  the  most 
trivial  and  unnecessary  alterations,  and  holding  me  up,  as 
I  supposed,  to  the  contempt  and  derision  of  the  office- 
clerks  below.  But  I  got  some  consolation  from  the  old 
Superintendent  of  the  Office.  "Lor',  sir,  he  does  just  that 
same  to  all  of  my  notes  too ;  it's  his  way  only."  And  a 
very  unpleasant  way  it  was.  Lord  Canning  and  Sir  Bartle 
Frere,  I  noticed,  made  all  necessary  alterations  very  neatly 
and   considerately   in   ink,    and   from    that    day   forward    I 


62  IN    CALCUTTA   AGAIN 

determined  to  follow  their  excellent  example  with  all  papers 
sent  up  in  the  future  by  my  subordinates.  I  still  vividly 
remember  the  first  despatch  I  had  to  draft  for  transmission 
to  the  Secretary  of  State  in  London.  It  had  reference 
to  the  water-supply  of  the  shipping  in  the  Hoogly.  I  do 
not  suppose  that  the  draft  ever  went  farther  than  the 
Secretary's  room  in  Calcutta,  or  that  the  Secretary  of  State, 
or  even  a  senior  clerk  at  the  India  Office  in  London,  troubled 
themselves  much  about  it.  But  the  drafting  of  that  my 
first  despatch  gave  me  intense  anxiety.  I  wrote  and  re-wrote 
it  a  dozen  times :  took  it  home  with  me,  re-copied  it  at 
night,  and  worked  at  it  again  in  the  early  morning,  and 
at  last  sent  it  up  to  the  grim  Secretary.  It  came  back 
chopped  up,  with  amended  wording  in  small  details  which 
seemed  to  me  to  be  of  exactly  the  original  lines  of  the 
composition  which  I  myself  had  changed  in  the  intense 
desire  of  improvement.  Then  I  prepared  with  some  trouble 
a  precis  of  a  file  in  the  Foreign  Department.  It  came  back 
in  due  course  with  a  note  from  Lord  Canning.  "This  is 
an  excellent  note.  I  wish  I  could  say  the  same  for  the 
handwriting  of  the  new  Under-Secretary.  I  hope  he  will 
be  more  careful  in  this  respect."  Alas !  I  had  not  heeded 
Lord  Palmerston's  excellent  advice !  I  was  more  careful. 
Lord  Canning  wrote  a  beautiful  hand.  I  carefully  imitated 
his  writing,  and  succeeded  to  some  extent ;  for  my  friend, 
Mr  W.  S.  Seton-Karr,  who  was  afterwards  Foreign  Secre- 
tary, told  me  one  day  at  Simlah  that  sometimes  when  open- 
ing one  of  the  old  files,  he  could  not  at  first  tell  whether 
the  handwriting  was  mine  or  Lord  Canning's.  In  those 
days  all  the  files  were  little  brick-shaped  monstrosities,  the 
papers  being  folded  in  four.  And  very  few  notes  were  then 
printed.  I  was  too  young  then  to  know  much  of  Lord 
Canning,  the  Viceroy,  though  I  saw  him  occasionally  at 
dinners  and  functions.  Like  all  others,  I  admired  the  beauty 
and  grace  of  Lady  Canning,  and  the  dignity  and  charm 
of  her  manner  to  her  guests.  I  remember  her  once  show- 
ing me  some  of  her  excellent  water-colour  sketches.     But  in 


AT    BURDWAN  63 

those  days  the  Viceroy  was  much  absent  from  Calcutta  in 
the  Upper  Provinces,  and  it  wasn't  my  lot  to  accompany 
him. 

I  received  much  help  and  encouragement  from  Sir  Bartle 
Frere  during  my  few  months  in  the  Secretariat,  but  was 
not  very  sorry  even  to  part  with  the  red-and-gold  box  when 
the  permanent  man  returned  and  relieved  me  of  my  office. 
I  got  some  credit  for  my  work,  and  found  that  instead  of 
having  to  return  as  an  Assistant-Magistrate,  in  which  office 
I  had  yet  hardly  qualified  myself,  I  had  been  promoted  to 
act  as  Joint -Magistrate  of  Burdwan,  a  station  on  the  rail- 
way near  Calcutta,  and  the  most  sought-after  in  the  whole 
Province. 

My  days  at  Burdwan,  from  the  end  of  1861  to  the  middle 
of  the  following  year,  were  as  pleasant  as  any  I  spent  in 
India.  I  had  for  the  first  time  in  my  life  a  house  of  my 
own.  I  was  young,  in  good  health,  was  getting  on  well 
in  the  service,  had  a  fair  income,  and  interesting  and 
responsible  work.  And  I  had  a  stable  full  of  good  horses — 
my  Arab,  dear  Selim,  having  a  Cabouli  and  a  stout,  most 
exemplary,  Kathiawar  gelding  as  stable-companions  to  do 
the  rough  work  of  the  establishment.  My  master,  the 
Magistrate  and  Collector,  Mr,  now  Sir,  Stuart  Hogg,  was 
everything  that  could  be  desired.  On  the  Collector,  the 
happiness  of  the  "Joint,"  as  he  was  termed,  much  depended. 
His  life  could  be  made  to  him  a  burden,  if  employed  on 
dismal,  uninteresting  work.  Or  the  Collector  could  trust 
his  subordinate,  give  him  the  charge  of  the  Police,  and 
make  him  even  as  the  Magistrate  of  the  District  under 
wholesome  supervision.  Though  I  was  quite  young  to  the 
work,  my  master  treated  me  splendidly,  allowed  me  to 
gallop  about  and  investigate  all  the  troublesome  indigo 
cases  that  were  then  cropping  up  in  the  district,  and  placed 
the  police  under  my  care.  He  kept,  however,  a  pretty  tight 
hand  on  me,  which,  considering  my  inexperience,  was  ab- 
solutely necessary.  And  we  were  the  best  of  friends.  He 
had  recently  married  whilst  at  home,  and  his  wife  and  the 


64  IN    THE    MOFUSSIL,    MIDNAPORE,    ETC. 

whole  establishment  were  thoroughly  English,  and  the  house 
one  to  which  it  was  a  real  pleasure  to  go  for  a  change  after 
a  hard  day's  work.  He  and  his  wife,  Lady  Stuart  Hogg, 
remained  my  firm  and  valued  friends  during  all  my  service 
in  India.  To  add  to  my  happiness,  I  had  a  very  cheery 
circle  of  friends,  and  as  I  had  a  good  house  at  Burdwan 
and  a  taste  for,  as  the  ladies  expressively  say,  "  having 
everything  nice,"  my  house  was  generally  full  at  the  week- 
end of  visitors  from  Calcutta.  Here  would  come  Colin 
Mackenzie,  who  had  succeeded  me  in  the  Income-Tax  Office 
in  Calcutta ;  Ewan  Macpherson  (Cluny  of  later  years) ; 
Horace  and  Roland  Cockerell,  then  the  two  leading  of  the 
civilians  in  the  Province  ;  Tom  Cowie,  the  Advocate  General  ; 
Seymour  Blane,  then  on  the  Staff;  iEneas  Perkins,1  then  a 
rising  young  engineer  officer, —  and  many  others.  Tom 
Cowie  always  sent  up  a  case  of  champagne  in  advance,  as 
a  joint  -  magistrate's  pay  hardly  ran  to  such  luxuries. 
Temple,  my  cousin,  who  is  to  figure  prominently  later  in 
these  "  Memories,"  was  a  regular  visitor.  I  have  since 
realised  that  the  steady  visits  to  me  of  my  bachelor  friends 
may  not  have  been  solely  dictated  by  affection  for  myself. 
At  that  time  Burdwan  enjoyed  the  presence  of  at  least  two 
of  the  most  celebrated  Calcutta  belles,  one  of  whom,  with 
her  descendants,  have  been  since  recognised  as  distinguished 
beauties  in  English  society.  And  the  attraction  of  Burdwan 
may,  possibly,  have  had  something  to  do  with  the  presence 
of  these  ladies.  Anyhow,  this  all  contributed  to  make  my 
stay  at  Burdwan  most  pleasant,  and  caused  me  to  hesitate 
when  the  time  came  to  leave  it  on  the  offer  of  promotion 
in  another  Province  that  soon  was  to  be  made  to  me. 

Before  I  left  Burdwan,  however,  I  was  to  have  a  very  sad 
and  unpleasant  experience,  which  must  find  a  place  in  these 
"  Memories." 

In  March  1862  Lord  Elgin  arrived  in  Calcutta  to  succeed 
Lord  Canning  as  Viceroy,  and  a  great  reception  was  given 
at  Government  House  to  introduce  the  officers  of  Govern- 

1  The  late  General  Sir  /Eneas  Perkins,  R.E.,  K.C.B. 


CHOLERA   AT    BURDWAN  65 

ment  to  the  new  Viceroy.  All  the  civil  officers  at  Burdwan 
received  notice  to  attend,  and  it  was  understood  that  every 
one  who  could  be  spared  was  to  present  himself,  a  special 
train  being  run  at  night  to  bring  us  back  to  our  station. 
Most  of  the  officials  left  Burdwan  for  the  purpose  by  the 
afternoon  train.  But  I  was  detained,  as  I  had  to  try  the 
jailor  of  the  place,  charged  with  malpractices.  The  accused 
had  brought  up  from  Calcutta  a  leading  barrister  for  his 
defence.  The  case  closed  sooner  than  we  expected,  and 
the  barrister  and  his  wife  took  the  afternoon  train  to 
Calcutta.  I  had  finished  up  my  work  and  was  just  making 
ready  to  start  by  the  later  train,  when  the  German  assistant 
at  Kellner's  hotel  came  running  up  to  the  house  begging 
me  to  come  down  to  the  hotel  at  once,  as  an  English  officer 
was  lying  there  dangerously  ill  of  cholera.  The  assistant 
had  found  that  the  doctor  was  absent,  having  gone  down 
to  Calcutta  for  the  Viceregal  party.  There  was  no  other 
medical  officer  in  the  station,  and  the  German  was  in  a 
state  of  excitement  and  perplexity.  I  found  the  sick  man 
in  an  alarming  state.  He  was  a  very  distinguished  and 
well-known  officer,  Colonel  Denny,  commanding  a  regiment 
in  Calcutta.  He  had,  he  told  me,  when  I  came  to  his 
bedside,  seen  much  of  the  disease  on  service ;  knew  that 
his  case  was  a  bad  one,  but  was  wonderfully  plucky  and 
brave  under  the  terrible  pain  he  suffered.  He  had  come 
up  to  Burdwan  to  escort  down  his  relation,  the  barrister's 
wife,  and  take  her  to  the  Viceregal  reception,  as  it  was 
feared  her  husband  would  be  detained.  And  he  had  missed 
them  both.  We  did  all  we  could  for  the  poor  sufferer. 
The  Colonel  had  a  most  excellent  and  devoted  native 
servant,  who  never  left  him  for  a  moment,  and  had  some 
idea  of  the  necessary  treatment.  I  telegraphed  all  over 
the  place  for  medical  aid.  And  as  the  mail-train  that  was 
to  have  taken  me  to  Calcutta  would  soon  arrive,  I  bethought 
myself  of  sending  the  German  assistant  to  the  station  to 
see  if,  perchance,  there  was  any  medical  man  on  board, 
and  to  summon  him  in  my  name  as  magistrate  to  the  hotel. 

E 


66  IN   THE   MOFUSSIL,   MIDNAPORE,   ETC. 

I  did  not  go  myself,  as  the  sick  man  could  not  well  be  left. 
But  I  wrote  an  official  notice  explaining  the  case  and  begging 
the  assistance  of  any  medical  man  who  might  be  passing, 
and  signed  and  sealed  the  document  as  magistrate.  I  was, 
as  it  may  be  supposed,  furious  when  the  assistant  returned 
and  told  me  that  there  had  been  a  doctor  in  the  train  and 
that  he  had  declined  to  come.  As  the  train  remained  only 
a  few  minutes  at  the  station,  there  was  no  time  to  send 
back  and  tell  me.  Early  next  morning  all  the  guests  who 
had  been  at  Calcutta  returned,  and  with  them  our  civil 
surgeon  and  two  other  medical  officers  who  had  received 
my  telegrams  on  their  return  to  their  stations  after  the 
Viceregal  function.  The  poor  patient  received  every  atten- 
tion that  was  possible.  But  the  case  had  gone  too  far, 
and  he  died  the  next  afternoon.  All  of  us  were  furious  at 
the  behaviour  of  the  unknown  doctor  of  the  downward  mail. 
I  wrote  in  great  indignation  to  the  Secretary  to  Government 
in  Calcutta  relating  the  circumstances.  In  Calcutta,  where 
the  Colonel  was  well  known,  the  indignation  was  even  more 
intense.  An  inquiry  was  instituted,  and  it  was  ascertained 
that  the  medical  officer  sought  for  was  one  holding  a  high 
office  in  Upper  India,  who  had  arrived  in  Calcutta  on  his 
way  home  on  sick-leave  and  was  to  be  a  passenger  by  the 
mail-steamer.  He  was  detained,  called  upon  to  explain, 
and  ultimately  it  was  announced  that  he  had  been  removed 
from  the  high  appointment  he  held  in  the  civil  department. 
At  the  same  time  an  order  of  the  Supreme  Government 
was  issued  to  the  officers  of  the  medical  department  re- 
minding them  that,  in  the  interests  of  humanity,  no  medical 
man  was  ever  off  duty  if  his  services  were  required  in  a 
case  of  urgency.  I  was  very  sorry  for  the  officer  on  whom 
I  had  not  willingly  brought  down  so  heavy  a  sentence.  I 
was  glad  when  later,  and  when  the  indignation  in  Calcutta 
had  cooled  down,  that  this  sentence  was  modified.  The 
officer  had  been  very  ill,  had  been  waked  out  of  his  sleep 
towards  the  close  of  a  long  and  tiring  journey,  and  had 
hardly  had  time,  during  the  short  stoppage  of  the  train  at 


APPOINTED   TO   THE    CENTRAL    PROVINCES  67 

Burdwan,  to  realise  the  position.  Had  he  been  fully  awake 
and  well,  he  would  undoubtedly,  like  any  other  member  of 
his  distinguished  profession,  have  at  once  started  on  his 
errand  of  mercy.  Lord  Elgin  afterwards  told  me  that  one 
of  the  first  cases  he  had  to  decide  as  Viceroy  was  that 
above  narrated.  And  he  commended  me  for  having  at  once 
followed  the  matter  up,  and  enabled  the  Government  to 
notify  to  all  officers  of  the  medical  service  their  position 
in  such  cases. 

My  connection  with  Burdwan,  and  what  was  then  con- 
sidered Indian  civilisation,  was  after  a  six  months'  residence 
now  to  come  to  an  end.  My  cousin  Temple  had,  to  the 
dismay  of  many,  been  selected  as  the  Chief  Commissioner 
of  the  new  administration  of  the  Central  Provinces,  which, 
as  their  name  denotes,  were  situated  in  the  very  centre  of 
India,  far  away  from  railway,  steamers,  and  civilisation.  He 
had  received  a  good  character  of  me  from  those  under  whom 
I  had  served  in  Calcutta,  and  had  obtained  the  sanction 
of  Lord  Elgin  to  offer  me  the  appointment  of  Assistant- 
Secretary  just  created  in  the  new  Province.  The  offer  was 
tempting.  The  appointment  meant  great  promotion,  as  I 
was  still,  so  to  speak,  in  official  swaddling-clothes.  For  I 
had  had  but  little  more  than  sixteen  months'  district  work, 
and  had  not  yet  passed  my  second  departmental  examina- 
tion. Besides  the  additional  pay,  I  should  be  relieved  of 
nearly  all  expense,  as  I  was  to  live  at  Government  House, 
or  ths  Residency  as  it  was  called,  as  the  guest  of  my 
cousin,  helping  him  also  in  the  very  confidential  position 
of  Private  Secretary,  besides  being  the  Assistant-Secretary 
to  Government.  Several  of  my  friends  strongly  advised  me 
to  decline  the  offer  and  stick  to  civilisation.  I  had  already, 
it  was  argued,  an  excellent  appointment,  was  getting 
on  well,  and  could  hope  for  the  Secretariat  in  Calcutta 
later  on.  But,  fortunately,  wiser  counsels  prevailed,  and 
early  in  June  1862  I  found  myself  gazetted  Assistant- 
Secretary  to  the  Chief  Commissioner  and  Assistant  to  the 
Agent  to  the  Governor- General  in   the   Central   Provinces, 


68  IN    THE    MOFUSSIL,    MIDNAPORE,    ETC. 

which  latter  part  of  the  office  meant  that  I  was  now  a 
full-fledged  political  officer,  with  the  right  to  wear  the  much 
coveted  blue-and-gold  coat  of  my  ambition. 

I  had  now  only  to  dispose  of  most  of  my  possessions  and 
to  send  off  my  horses,  and  to  prepare  for  a  long  journey 
into  the  almost  unknown,  or  the  "  wilderness "  as  it  was 
called.  And  to  get  to  Nagpore  from  Calcutta  fifty  years 
ago,  when  there  was  no  railway,  no  carriage  dak  even,  was 
a  matter  of  no  little  difficulty  and  arrangement,  such  as 
hardly  any  one  now  resident  in  India  can  readily  realise, 
but  of  which  some  attempt  at  description  must  now  be 
made. 


69 


CHAPTER    IV. 

UP-COUNTRY   AND   THE    CENTRAL    PROVINCES. 
1862. 

The  journey  up-country  —  Lepel  Griffin  —  After  a  bear — Benares — In 
a  bullock-coach  to  Jubbulpore  —  The  mail-cart  —  Arrival  at  the 
Residency,  Nagpore — The  Central  Provinces  Commission — Value 
of  the  appointments  —  Temple,  my  new  chief — His  industry  and 
power  of  work  —  Simplicity  of  his  character — Formation  of  his 
staff — Distinguished  careers  of  Temple's  lieutenants — His  method 
of  work — Nagpore  in  the  'Sixties — The  museum — The  old  chiefs 
contribution  thereto  —  His  disappointment  —  The  scientific  Gov- 
ernor and  skulls  in  duplicate  —  Dangerous  results  of  the  order 
— Wild  tribes  and  skulls  plentiful  —  Fate  of  the  anthropological 
collection. 

At  last  all  was  settled,  and  one  very  hot  day  in  June 
1862  I  started  from  Calcutta  on  my  jungle  journey,  in 
company  with  my  friend  Lepel  Griffin,  who  was  then  on 
his  way  up-country  to  commence  the  brilliant  career  he 
was  thenceforth  to  run  in  the  Punjab.  As  far  as  Ranigunge 
we  could  get  by  railway.  From  thence  to  Benares,  all  along 
the  Grand  Trunk  Road,  was  to  be  done  in  a  dak-ghary,  a 
box  upon  wheels  drawn  by  ponies  changed  at  short  stages. 
Each  had  his  carriage,  such  as  it  was,  but  during  the  day 
we  sat  together  for  company,  and  allowed  the  other  con- 
veyance to  accompany  us  as  a  tender.  We  had  hardly  been 
on  our  way  for  an  hour  when,  being  in  thick  jungle,  we  saw, 
to  our  delight,  a  fine  old  bear  lollop  across  the  road  just  in 
front  of  our  carriage.  I  had  already  shot  two  bears  in  the 
Midnapore  jungles.     But  the  sight  was  new  to  Griffin,  and 


70  UP-COUNTRY   AND   THE    CENTRAL    PROVINCES 

we  two  noble  sportsmen  promptly  started  in  pursuit  after 
the  bear  into  the  thick  jungle.  Each  had  a  revolver,  and 
we  were  determined  to  hold  together  and  fight  to  the  death. 
We  stumbled  about  in  the  jungle  for  half  an  hour,  and,  of 
course,  never  got  anywhere  near  to  that  bear.  It  was  nearly 
evening.  We  had  no  idea  where  we  were,  but  made  a  lucky 
cast  in  striking  out  for  the  Grand  Trunk  Road,  which  we 
regained  in  due  course,  after  a  tiring  struggle  through  the 
jungle.  Arrived  at  the  road,  we  had  no  notion  of  where  our 
carriage  was,  whether  to  north  or  south.  So  one  of  us  went 
north,  the  other  south,  and  Griffin  coming  luckily  on  the 
convoy  after  half  an  hour's  walk,  drove  back  and  found  me 
tired  out,  and  halted  at  a  small  police-post  by  the  wayside. 
We  did  not  attempt  any  further  jungle  scouring  after  that 
experience,  and  reaching  Benares  after  an  uneventful  journey, 
our  roads  parted,  and  we  said  good-bye  for  a  long  series  of 
years,  as  we  never  served  together  in  the  same  Province. 
But  we  kept  up  our  friendship,  and  I  ever  retained  a  warm 
regard  for  that  most  able  and  generous  man,  who  with  his 
versatility  and  ability  was  a  real  ornament  to  the  service, 
and  whose  death  I  have  quite  recently  had  to  deplore.  He 
was  occasionally  admittedly  a  trifle  audacious,  but  it  was 
refreshing  to  see  his  courage  and  independence,  and  to  hear 
him  valiantly  express  ideas  which  many  felt,  but  few  quite 
liked  to  enunciate,  on  difficult  questions  connected  with  the 
State  and  its  personages. 

Arrived  in  Benares,  I  found  myself  for  the  first  time  "up- 
country,"  that  is,  in  quite  a  new  land,  differing  in  climate, 
in  scenery,  in  its  people  and  language,  from  what  I  had  been 
accustomed  in  Lower  Bengal.  I  had  been  invited  to  stay  at 
Benares  with  the  Agent  to  the  Governor- General,  and  at 
about  half-past  eight  of  a  very  hot-weather  morning  my 
conveyance  drew  up  at  the  great  man's  door.  I  was  received 
by  several  imposing  servants  clad  in  red-and-gold,  and  con- 
ducted to  my  room.  All  was  silent  in  the  corridors,  and  I 
noticed  the  boots  of  the  occupants  of  the  bedrooms  aligned 
outside  the  doors,  indicating  that  the  owners  had  not  yet 


JOURNEY   UP-COUNTRY  71 

dressed  for  the  day.  I  was  beginning  to  think  that  they 
kept  rather  curious  hours  up-country  when,  noticing  the 
table- servants  clearing  away  the  debris  of  breakfast  from 
under  a  splendid  tree  in  the  garden,  from  a  table  around 
which  had  been  grouped  a  dozen  chairs,  I  realised  that  the 
household  had  been  astir  before  daybreak,  that  the  sahibs 
had  probably  been  out  for  a  couple  of  hours  already  on 
horseback,  had  had  their  early  breakfast  under  the  tree, 
and  were  now  resting  for  a  space  before  commencing  the 
more  serious  work  of  the  day.  In  some  other  parts  the 
official  day  commenced  at  six,  and  at  noon  all  the  offices 
closed,  and  the  tired  official  returned  home  to  bathe,  break- 
fast, and  rest.  In  Lower  Bengal  one  sat  throughout  the 
usual  official  hours  of  the  heat  of  the  day,  and  early  cutcherry, 
as  it  was  called,  or  office  was  unknown.  I  visited,  in  pious 
pilgrimage,  the  historical  staircase  defended  by  my  grand- 
father, Mr  Davis,  in  the  Nandesur  House,  and  after  a  couple 
of  days'  halt  in  the  holy  city,  packed  myself  and  belongings 
into  a  bullock-coach,  in  which  I  was  to  rumble  for  days  along 
the  splendid  road  through  the  beautiful  wild  country  lead- 
ing through  Mirzapore  to  Jubbulpore.  The  route  was  well 
supplied  with  dak-bungalows,  or  travellers'  rest-houses,  at 
easy  distances ;  and  as  the  weather  was  very  hot,  I  would 
make  up  a  bed  in  the  coach,  travel  during  the  night,  and 
spend  the  heat  of  the  day  at  the  rest-house.  Relays  of 
bullocks  of  a  fine  powerful  breed  were  placed  at  stages  all 
along  the  road,  and  at  last,  after  several  days'  journey,  one 
found  oneself  in  Jubbulpore,  the  most  northern,  and  one  of 
the  most  important  stations  of  the  new  Provinces  to  the 
staff  of  the  Governor  of  which  I  had  now  been  appointed. 
I  had  a  very  cordial  reception  from  the  Commissioner,  with 
whom  I  passed  a  day,  and  then  set  out  in  tremendous  heat 
to  cross  the  hilly  range  that  divides  what  were  called  the 
Saugor  and  Nerbudda  Provinces  from  Nagpore.  The  road 
through  the  jungle  country  had  been  splendidly  engineered, 
and  being  a  main  artery  of  traffic  towards  Bombay,  was  kept 
in  excellent  order.     This  was  the  post-road  along  which,  in 


72  UP-COUNTRY   AND   THE    CENTRAL    PROVINCES 

those  days,  all  the  mails  to  Bombay  were  carried.  As  I  was 
travelling  on  urgent  duty,  I  had  special  permission  to  journey 
through  the  night  on  the  mail-cart,  which  went  at  a  great 
pace,  drawn  by  a  pair  of  good  horses  changed  every  six 
miles,  and  on  the  box  of  which  there  was  just  sufficient 
room  for  the  driver  and  one  passenger.  It  was  difficult  to 
keep  awake  during  the  night,  hot  as  it  was,  and  with  the 
iron  of  the  back  of  the  cart  entering  into  one's  spine.  But 
somehow  or  other  I  got  through  that  night  and  a  part  of 
the  next  day,  until  I  reached  a  stage  where  I  found  my  dear 
Selim,  who  had  been  sent  out  for  me  with  my  other  horses, 
and  laid  out  in  stages  to  take  me  through  the  last  part  of 
my  long  journey  into  Nagpore,  where  after  a  good  gallop  I 
was  welcomed  by  Temple  at  the  Residency.  I  still  remember 
the  joy  of  the  swimming-bath,  into  which  I  plunged,  making 
the  warmish  water  fizz  as  my  overheated  body  dived  in 
again  and  again  with  repeated  headers,  prior  to  the  dinner 
and  the  well-earned  bottle  of  champagne  which  my  cousin 
and  new  chief  had  had  specially  cooled  for  me  by  the 
accomplished  Residency  abdar,  or  official  who,  in  the  days 
before  ice,  cooled  the  drinks  for  the  great  man  and  his 
guests.  In  the  house  I  found  an  old  friend,  Colonel  Bruce, 
C.B.,  the  brother  of  the  late  Lady  Campbell-Bannerman, 
who  had  been  commissioned  to  reorganise  the  police  force 
in  India,  and  I  passed  a  pleasant  time  with  my  cousin  and 
new  master,  and  with  my  dear  old  friend. 

The  next  day  I  commenced  work  in  real  earnest,  and 
found  a  variety  of  duties  awaiting  me.  I  lived  with  my 
cousin,  Mr  Richard  Temple — as  he  then  was — the  Chief 
Commissioner,  at  Government  House,  or  the  "  Residency  " 
as  it  was  called,  having  been  inhabited  formerly  by  the 
British  Resident  and  Agent  to  the  Governor-General,  in  the 
days  before  the  Nagpore  State  was  annexed  and  erected  into 
a  British  Province  by  Lord  Dalhousie  on  the  failure  of  an 
heir  to  the  Bhonsla  Maharajah  of  Nagpore.  The  Province, 
which  extended  from  the  southern  slopes  of  the  Sauthpoorah 
Mountains  down  to  the   Godavery  river,  and  farther  north 


THE    CENTRAL    PROVINCES  73 

beyond  Sumbulpore,  almost  within  sight  of  Cuttack,  Pooree, 
and  the  sea,  included  a  vast  tract  of  wild  jungle- territory 
under  a  dozen  small  native  chiefs.  The  Province  had  been 
divided  into  a  number  of  districts,  each  ruled  by  a  Deputy- 
Commissioner,  generally  a  middle-aged  military  officer,  who 
with  no  previous  training,  small  encouragement,  and  without 
much  supervision,  still  with  the  remarkable  king-craft  of  his 
race,  had  made  the  tract,  long  entangled  in  many  of  the 
peculiarities  of  native  rule,  into  a  fairly  satisfactory  charge. 
These  Deputy -Commissioners  had  been  ruled  over  by  a 
Commissioner,  a  distinguished  old  military  civilian,  who  had 
succeeded  the  Governor -General's  Agent  at  the  Residency. 
The  Nagpore  Province  had  recently  been  joined,  by  the  order 
of  the  Governor-General,  to  the  Saugor  and  Nerbudda  terri- 
tories lying  north  and  west  of  Jubbulpore,  and  numbering 
half  a  dozen  rich  districts,  each  with  its  Deputy-Commis- 
sioner, and  also  ruled  over  by  a  Commissioner,  likewise  a  dis- 
tinguished military  civilian,  Colonel  Erskine,  who  had  just 
retired  from  the  service  on  succeeding  to  the  Earldom  of 
Mar  and  Kellie.  It  had  now  been  determined  to  wheel  these 
outlying  territories  into  line  with  the  other  Provinces  of  the 
Empire,  and  joining  them  together  to  erect  a  new  Adminis- 
tration or  subordinate  Government,  to  be  called  the  Central 
Provinces.  For  this  purpose  three  or  four  of  the  districts 
were  grouped  together,  each  group  being  placed  under  a 
Commissioner  of  Division.  Over  the  six  Commissioners  of 
Division  and  the  four-and-twenty  Deputy- Commissioners 
was  placed  a  Chief  Commissioner,  whose  position  in  most 
matters  nearly  approached  that  of  a  Lieutenant-Governor  in 
the  older  Provinces,  save  that  here  all  was  "  non-regulation," 
the  salary  was  smaller,  and  the  Chief  Commissioner  was 
directly  under  the  control  of  the  Governor-General.  To  this 
Chief  Commissioner  had  now  been  assigned  a  Secretariat, 
and  a  variety  of  officers  had  recently  been  appointed,  judicial, 
educational,  forest,  &c,  to  bring  it,  the  administration,  up  to 
the  level  of  the  older  Provinces.  The  district  staff,  too,  had 
been  strengthened,  and  the  resettlement  of  the  land  revenue 


74  UP-COUNTRY   AND   THE    CENTRAL   PROVINCES 

sanctioned  in  several  districts,  together  with  a  special 
European  staff  for  the  purpose,  and  in  the  appointment  of 
the  new  men  Temple  had  been  left  a  free  hand  under  the 
general  control  of  the  Supreme  Government.  The  per- 
manent Chief  Commissioner,  a  very  distinguished  military 
civilian,  Colonel  Elliot,  who  had  long  been  Commissioner  of 
Nagpore,  had  gone  home,  very  ill,  on  long  sick-leave.  So 
the  important  task  of  welding  these  two  Provinces  into  one, 
and  starting  the  whole  staff  on  what  were  practically  entirely 
changed  lines,  fell  to  my  new  master.  And  in  this  I  was  to 
help  him  as  Assistant-Secretary  in  the  office,  Assistant-Agent 
to  the  Governor-General  in  respect  to  the  dealings  with  the 
Nagpore  Royal  Family  and  the  Native  States,  and  at 
Government  House  itself  as  confidential  Private  Secretary 
and  friend. 

Temple,  the  eldest  son  of  one  of  my  father's  sisters,  and 
a  well-known  Worcester  squire,  of  the  distinguished  family 
settled  in  different  parts  of  England  and  Ireland,  and  winners 
of  several  peerages,1  was  almost  a  stranger  to  me  until,  soon 
after  my  arrival  in  India,  I  met  him  in  Calcutta.  He  was 
some  thirteen  years  my  senior,  and  when,  occasionally  as  a 
child,  I  had  been  on  a  visit  to  my  uncle's  place  in  Worcester- 
shire, the  "  big  boy  "  had  either  been  at  Rugby  or  at  Hailey- 
bury.  And  he  had  been  shipped  off  to  India  when  I  was 
hardly  out  of  the  nursery.  It  always  seemed  to  me  curious 
that  he,  the  eldest  son  of  a  squire  of  ancient  family,  heir  to  a 
fair-sized  entailed  estate,  with  a  very  beautiful  Elizabethan 
home,  should  have  shared  the  same  fate  as  myself,  the 
younger  son  of  a  youngest  son,  and  should  have  been  obliged 
to  seek  his  fortunes  in  the  East.  But  my  uncle,  on  the  death 
of  my  father's  sister,  had  married  a  second  time,  and  it  had 
become  necessary  to  economise  out  of  the  entailed  estate  for 
the  sake  of  the  second  family.     So  I  had  the  good  fortune  to 

1  At  one  time  there  were  in  India,  all  holding  high  office,  three  members  of  the 
house  of  Temple,  all  descended  from  a  common  ancestor — viz.,  the  Marquis  of 
Dufferin,  the  Viceroy  ;  the  Duke  of  Buckingham,  Governor  of  Madras  ;  and  Sir  R. 
Temple,  Lieutenant-Governor  of  Bengal.  Lord  Palmerston,  too,  was  of  the  same 
family. 


SIR   RICHARD   TEMPLE  75 

find  a  relation  and  friend  to  teach  me  my  work  in  this  new 
Province.  And  from  that  date,  the  middle  of  1862,  until  he 
left  India,  having  then  filled  every  high  post  in  the  country 
save  that  of  Viceroy,  I  served  under,  or  was  constantly  in 
official  communication  with,  that  remarkable  man,  who  by 
his  kindness,  support,  teaching,  and  example  did  his  best  to 
make  of  me  an  efficient  public  servant,  and  who  placed  me 
under  obligations  which  I  can  never  sufficiently  acknowledge. 
He  was  a  curious  character,  this  my  kinsman,  and  in  relating 
some  of  my  experiences  with  him  in  the  Central  Provinces,  it 
hardly  seems  desirable  to  "leave  out  the  warts"  when  an 
attempt  is  made  to  sketch  him  in  as  he  appeared  to  me. 
Temple  carried  his  defects  on  his  sleeve,  and  it  would  be 
silly  to  ignore  them.  His  vanity  was  proverbial,  but  its 
measure  was  often  exaggerated  by  his  detractors.  He  was 
ambitious  and  self-confident,  or,  with  all  he  had  against  him, 
he  could  never  have  succeeded  as  he  did.  Even  those  who 
liked  him  least  could  not  deny  his  great  ability.  Joined  to 
this,  he  had  what  Lord  Lawrence  is  supposed  to  have  valued 
as  highly  as  brains — viz.,  an  admirable  physique,  without 
which,  in  an  Indian  climate  certainly,  the  value  of  brains  is 
much  discounted.  Then  he  had  great  industry,  and  having 
had  the  advantage  of  thorough  grounding  and  excellent 
training  in  the  Punjab,  the  best  Indian  school,  under  Sir 
John  Lawrence,  the  best  of  masters,  he  had  a  knowledge  of 
affairs  which,  when  combined  with  his  other  qualities,  made 
him  a  model  organiser  and  administrator  in  a  new  Province. 
He  was  a  curious  mixture  of  shrewdness  and  simplicity. 
Supposed  by  some  to  be  the  most  self-seeking  and  selfish 
individual  in  existence,  he  was,  as  a  fact,  in  most  things 
almost  childishly  innocent  and  simple ;  and  it  was  often  a 
wonder  to  me  how  a  man  brought  up  at  Rugby  and  in  a  big 
country  house,  his  father  a  man  of  great  family  and  holding 
a  prominent  position  in  the  county,  the  son  should  not  have 
brought  with  him  to  India  more  of  the  protective  knowledge 
of  the  world,  so  valuable  in  official  and  non-official  life.  If 
in  those  days  I  had  ventured  to  advance  that  Temple,  who 


j6  UP-COUNTRY   AND   THE    CENTRAL    PROVINCES 

was  regarded  as  the  incarnation  of  self-seeking  and  ambition, 
was  in  reality  one  of  the  most  guileless  of  men,  I  should  have 
been  received  with  a  howl  of  derision.  Many  now,  however, 
will  recognise  this  description  as  a  correct  estimate  of  this 
curious  character. 

Our  recollections  and  the  characters  of  those  we  have 
known  have,  naturally,  often  been  talked  over  by  my  wife 
and  myself.  She  knew  Temple  almost  as  well  as  I  did, 
and  was  not  blind  to  some  of  his  peculiarities.  But  she 
will  be  found  to  insist,  together  with  me,  on  the  simplicity 
of  his  character,  and  on  one  special  characteristic  of  which 
all  might  well  be  proud.  He  never  bore  malice,  and  he  never 
said  a  bad  word  of  any  one.  He  always  tried  to  check 
uncharitable  comment,  and  would  ever  try  and  excuse  those 
who  came  under  unfavourable  criticism.  Now  I  always  bore 
malice,  and  sometimes  a  good  deal  of  it.  Some  of  this  would 
occasionally  be  imported  into  my  official  dealings.  On  first 
arrival,  Temple  had  to  encounter  from  some  of  the  senior 
officers  of  the  "Old  Gang,"  as  it  was  called,  and  some  of 
whom  were  old  enough  to  be  fathers,  much  opposition,  some- 
times of  a  disloyal  and  exasperating  character.  I  used  to 
mark  down  the  action  of  these  gentry  for  future  recognition 
and  observance.  I  remember  well  how  a  favourite  station  in 
the  Provinces  fell  vacant,  and  as  nearly  every  one  in  the 
Commission  sent  in  a  petition  for  transfer  to  this  delightful 
district,  I  took  up  the  list  to  Temple  for  orders.  Amongst 
the  applicants  was  one,  a  Colonel  X.,  who  had  behaved 
disloyally  and  objectionably  in  a  recent  case.  There  might 
have  not  been  enough  to  justify  the  stoppage  of  his  promo- 
tion, but  he  was  certainly  not  a  man  who  merited  special 
consideration  and  favour,  or,  to  my  mind,  one  to  be 
selected  for  a  favourite  station.  So  I  said,  "  Oh,  there 
is  X.  He  is  the  man  who  behaved  so  badly  in  the 
Local  Funds  case,  and  was  so  rude  to  you.  Of  course, 
he  will  not  have  it."  "  Oh,  did  he  ?  "  answered  Temple  ; 
"  I  do  not  remember  it,  and  anyhow,  I  do  not  wish  to  be 
reminded  of  it,  please," — and  taking  the  list,  he  wrote  de- 


temple's  patronage  77 

liberately  and  in  a  very  clear  hand  Colonel  X.'s  name  against 
the  vacancy,  signed  the  paper,  and  placed  it  in  the  office-box, 
signifying  that  all  discussion  on  the  subject  must  cease. 

Though  he  was  always  generous  and  occasionally  mag- 
nanimous, he  would  exasperate  me  now  and  then  by  not 
doing  himself  justice,  and  by  omitting  to  give  those  graceful 
little  touches  to  some  of  his  actions  which  go  so  far  towards 
winning  the  hearts  of  those  with  whom  one  has  to  deal.  I 
remember  well  one  of  my  first  difficult  discussions  with  my 
new  master.  A  lady  in  the  Punjab,  the  widow  of  an  officer 
he  had  known  and  who  had  been  killed  in  some  frontier 
skirmish,  wrote  him  a  pathetic  letter,  saying  she  had  been 
left  very  badly  off,  and  begging  Temple  to  assist  her  by 
giving  her  son,  then  an  ensign  in  the  army,  an  appointment 
in  the  Commission.  Such  appointments  were  then  the  most 
valuable  patronage  in  India,  and  proportionately  highly 
prized.  A  very  young  soldier  could  be  appointed  thus  to 
the  civil  branch  of  the  service  without  the  labour,  risk,  and 
expense  of  a  competitive  examination,  and  he  started  work 
quite  young,  whilst  the  competition  man  was  yet  working 
at  college.  Save  as  regards  pension,  he  was  every  bit  as 
well  off  as  a  civil  servant.  He  could  rise  to  be  Governor 
of  the  Province,  retaining  the  while  his  army  rank,  and 
although  he  would  never  set  eyes  on  a  soldier,  being  em- 
ployed the  whole  time  purely  on  civil  duty,  he  would  be 
promoted  through  all  the  grades  until  at  last,  after  five- 
and-thirty  years  of  entirely  civil  work,  he  might  retire  from 
the  service  with  the  military  magnificence  and  rank  of  a 
Major-General. 

The  applications  for  these  valuable  appointments  were 
therefore  numerous,  and  keeping  of  the  patronage-book  was 
not  the  least  of  my  responsible  duties.  Temple  would 
receive  letters  from  all  parts  of  the  world  from  those  in- 
terested in  young  officers  who  wished  for  the  loaves  and 
the  fishes  of  "  civil  employ."  When  the  widow's  application 
arrived  I  brought  up  the  patronage-book,  with  a  very  long  list 
of  applicants   from  political   friends  in   England,  important 


78  UP-COUNTRY   AND   THE    CENTRAL    PROVINCES 

men  connected  with  the  Government  in  Calcutta,  and  so  on, 
the  names  of  whose  proteges  had  been  for  some  time  on 
the  list.  "  This  case,"  said  Temple,  "  is  an  exceptional  one — 
the  father  did  good  service  and  was  killed  in  action  ;  there  is 
a  vacancy,  this  young  fellow  should  have  it," — and  ignoring 
the  other  influential  applicants,  he  immediately  filled  in  the 
form  for  the  issue  of  the  necessary  official  orders  from  the 
office.  "  I  will  leave  the  letter  with  you,"  I  said  ;  "  you  will, 
of  course,  answer  Mrs  A."  "I  write  to  Mrs  A. !  "  said  he  in 
amazement, — "I  answer  the  lady!  No,  of  course  you  will 
write  to  her."  "  But,"  said  I,  "  you  know  her,  and  knew 
the  husband,  and  an  answer  from  you  will  be  so  much  more 
appreciated  and  more  graceful  than  a  demi-official  letter 
from  me,  an  utter  stranger."  "  Well,"  he  replied,  "  I  think 
secretaries  are  made  for  this  particular  class  of  work.  I 
have  given  the  lady's  son  the  appointment,  so  I  do  not 
think  she  has  any  cause  to  complain.  This  will  be  quite 
enough  on  my  part,  without  my  having  to  write."  When 
I  attempted  to  argue  the  point,  Temple,  who  could  be 
obstinate  on  occasion,  closed  the  conversation  by  com- 
mencing the  next  case  on  hand.  The  widow  was  doubtless 
overjoyed  at  the  son  being  provided  for  for  life.  But  if  she 
were  human,  she  must  have  resented  the  woodeny,  demi- 
official  answer  communicated  to  her  by  the  unknown  Assistant- 
Secretary.  This  story  is  only  told  in  order  to  show  how  really 
good  he  was,  though  he  could  exasperate  one  by  not  doing 
himself  justice. 

In  those  days  Temple  was  eminently  industrious,  and  had 
an  enormous  power  of  work.  Being  very  abstemious,  and 
having  a  splendid  constitution,  he  never  seemed  to  tire.  He 
would  ride  twenty  or  five-and-twenty  miles  in  the  early  morn- 
ing, have  his  bath  and  breakfast,  and  work  at  high  pressure 
all  day.  But  he  would  be  rather  astonished  when  every  one 
else  could  not  do  exactly  the  same,  and  he  did  not  easily 
realise  that  perhaps  a  flabby  old  Deputy-Commissioner  could 
not  stand  half  the  exertion.  Thus  he  was  sometimes  accused 
of  being  inconsiderate.     When  I  first  commenced  work  with 


temple's  ability  and  energy  79 

him,  I  used  to  be  astounded  at  the  manner  in  which,  after  a 
long  ride,  he  would  sit  down  at  a  table,  double  up  a  sheet  of 
foolscap  paper,  and  proceed  to  write  out,  on  half-margin,  a 
long  despatch  or  portion  of  a  report,  never  hesitating  for  a 
sentence,  and  seldom  changing  a  word  when  later  he  read 
over  the  despatch  for  correction.  Of  course  I  learnt  the  trick 
later,  and  knew  that  all  this  did  not  come  from  sudden 
inspiration,  but  that  during  a  ride  or  a  walk  he  would  think 
out  his  report,  arrange  it  in  sequence,  and  be  quite  ready  to 
commit  it  to  foolscap  when  he  reached  the  end  of  the  march. 
And  this  was  the  plan  I  myself  adopted  in  after-days  when 
I  had  to  compose  reports  on  my  own  account. 

With  Temple,  during  the  two  years  that  followed,  I 
scampered  all  over  the  whole  of  the  Central  Provinces, 
visiting  every  district,  getting  twice  down  to  the  Bay  of 
Bengal  from  central  Nagpore,  and  visiting  Bombay  as  many 
times  with  my  energetic  chief.  The  Secretary  was  a  man  of 
great  ability,  and  most  valuable  in  the  office.  But  he  kept  a 
bullock-coach,  and  I  do  not  think  he  ever  in  those  days  had  a 
horse.  So  I,  who  was  known  as  the  "  galloping  Secretary," 
had  the  good  luck  to  do  all  the  camping.  I  rode  about  ten 
and  a  half  stone  at  that  time,  had  always  three  or  four 
fairly  good  horses,  and  when,  as  sometimes  happened,  we 
had  to  do  sixty  or  even  seventy  miles  in  the  day,  I  would 
pick  out  a  sowar's  horse  from  the  escort,  leaving  him  his 
own  bit  and  using  my  own  saddle.  Temple  always  had 
one  showy  Arab  that  he  could  ride  on  parade,  or  when  we 
went  out  to  meet  some  regiment  marching  into  Nagpore. 
And  he  would  keep  during  the  working  season  five  or  six 
animals  of  sorts,  each  one  of  which  would  do  its  eight  or 
even  ten  miles  when  laid  out  on  a  stage.  But  he  had  no 
taste  for  a  really  good  stable. 

On  the  whole,  we  got  on  well  together.  No  two  characters 
could  have  been  more  unlike.  He  was  a  strong,  steady 
Rugbean  of  great  ability,  very  simple  in  his  ideas  and  tastes. 
Ijhad  a  strain  of  foreign  blood  in  me,  had  been  brought  up 
abroad,  was  something  of  the  petit-maitre,  and  if  I  had  any 


80  UP-COUNTRY  AND    THE    CENTRAL    PROVINCES 

ability,  it  was  of  an  unsteady,  not  very  practical  kind.  He 
was  of  a  careful  disposition,  and  had  inherited  no  Rivett 
extravagances,  which  were  all  strongly  developed  in  me, 
especially  the  standard  that,  with  the  chronicler,  "  all 
was  well,  and  Meates  liberally  spent,"  as  recorded  of 
my  Elizabethan  ancestor.  Temple  cared  little  for  com- 
fort, and  what  is  expressively  termed  by  ladies  "  having 
things  nice."  I  had  been  brought  up  to  regard  "  nice- 
ness  "  as  a  necessity  of  one's  surroundings.  When  living 
with  him  as  his  private  secretary  and  guest,  I  was  con- 
tinually attempting  to  wheel  the  establishment  into  line 
according  to  my  ideas  as  to  what  befitted  a  Government 
House,  and  occasionally  I  had  pitched  battles  over  infini- 
tesimal details.  His  chief  relaxation  was  sketching  and 
painting.  I  only  wish  I  could  reproduce  the  excellent 
series  of  water-colour  sketches  that  Temple  made  in  those 
days  —  for,  like  his  father,  he  was  an  excellent  artist,  and 
painting  was  his  one  relaxation.  Before  photography  came 
much  into  vogue  this  accomplishment  was  of  great  value, 
and  he  made  during  our  tours  accurate  sketches  of  all 
the  chief  places  visited  by  us. 

Later  he  fortunately  married  again,  and  under  delightful 
home  influences  many  valuable  changes  were  gradually 
wrought  in  all  connected  with  himself  and  household. 

One  of  my  first  duties  with  Temple  at  Nagpore  was  to 
assist  him  in  completing  his  staff  for  the  newly  formed 
Provinces.  The  district  appointments  were  mostly  already 
occupied  by  the  members  of  the  old  Commission,  senior 
"  military  civilians "  as  they  were  termed.  Temple  was 
desirous  of  introducing  some  new  blood  in  the  shape  of 
young  civil  servants,  for  whom  places  could  be  found  in 
the  appointments  sanctioned  by  the  Government  of  India 
for  the  revision  of  the  land  revenue  in  many  of  the  districts. 
Those  so  appointed  were  called  "  Settlement  Officers."  Their 
work  was  most  interesting  and  important,  bringing  them 
in  direct  communication  with  the  people,  and  necessitating 
an  open-air  life  in  camp  whilst  the  investigations  regarding 


temple's  staff  8i 

the  reassessment  of  the  revenue  were  being  made.  Some 
of  the  most  distinguished  of  Indian  administrators  had 
risen  in  the  settlement  school,  and  there  was  generally 
keen  competition  for  places  in  that  department ;  and  as 
these  appointments  were  well  paid,  there  was  little  difficulty 
in  getting  recruits  even  when  the  work  was  in  an  out-of- 
the-way  jungly  Province  like  ours.  Temple,  too,  was 
regarded  as  a  man  likely  to  go  far,  and  many  ambitious 
young  civilians  were  willing  to  join  his  standard.  He  had 
therefore  to  consider  a  vast  number  of  applications  for 
employment  from  men  in  every  part  of  India,  and  it  was 
a  portion  of  my  duty  as  private  secretary  to  assist  him  in 
the  sifting  of  these.  Naturally  enough  I  was  anxious  to 
get  some  of  my  college  friends  brought  down  to  the  new 
Provinces.  And  here  let  me  say  that  Haileybury  certainly 
had  this  advantage,  that  it  admitted  of  one's  learning,  during 
the  time  spent  together  at  college,  something  of  the  char- 
acter of  the  men  who  were  later  to  be  one's  contemporaries 
and  fellow -workers  in  the  service.  I  did  not  fail  to  put 
forward  the  claims  of  my  friends.  Temple,  during  the  two 
years  he  had  been  with  me  in  Calcutta,  had  rather  got  to 
believe  in  my  knowledge  of  character.  He  had  not  himself 
seen  much  of  the  younger  men  in  the  service,  to  whom 
his  choice  was  restricted.  He  therefore  encouraged  me  to 
suggest  names.  He  did  not,  however,  blindly  accept  my 
recommendation,  but  would  write  off  to  the  Secretary  to 
the  Government  where  my  nominee  was  serving,  make 
inquiries  regarding  his  record,  and,  if  satisfactory,  ask  for 
his  transfer.  In  this  way  came  down  to  us  at  Nagpore 
Bernard,  Charles  Grant,  Bell,  Frank  Wyllie,  who  had  all 
been  at  college  with  me,  and  were  my  intimate  friends.  I 
also  suggested  Alfred  Lyall  and  Charles  Elliott,  both  of 
whom  were  known  to  me,  and  connected  with  me  by 
marriage.  And  they  also  in  due  course  joined  the  Com- 
mission—  the  one  as  Deputy- Commissioner,  the  other  as 
Settlement  Officer  of  Hoshungabad.  But  in  one  case, 
although   I  was  unsuccessful,  the   issue   added  not  a  little 

F 


82  UP-COUNTRY   AND   THE    CENTRAL    PROVINCES 

to  Temple's  faith  in  my  recommendations.  J.  B.  Lyall, 
or  "Billy"  Lyall  as  he  was  called  at  college,  was  one  for 
whom  I  had  the  highest  regard,  and  on  ascertaining  that 
he  was  willing  to  come  down  from  the  Punjab,  I  got 
Temple  to  apply  for  his  services.  Temple  wrote  to  the 
Secretary,  who  was  an  old  friend  of  his,  and  I  remember 
well  the  answer,  which  came  in  a  private  note,  to  this  effect : 
"  Oh,  you  want  J.  B.  Lyall,  do  you  ?  Well,  he  is  the  very 
best  of  our  young  men ;  and  don't  you  wish  you  may  get 
him  !  "  So  James  Lyall,  a  younger  brother  of  Sir  Alfred 
Lyall,  remained  in  the  Punjab,  to  be  beloved  and  trusted 
by  every  one,  European  and  Native  alike,  and  to  rise  there 
eventually  to  be  the  Governor  of  the  Province  in  which 
all  his  service  had  been  passed,  and  to  leave  it  on  retire- 
ment with  the  verdict  of  all  classes  that  he  was  the  best 
Governor  they  had  ever  had.  Of  the  others  named,  Bell 
died,  unhappily,  a  year  after  he  joined  us.  Frank  Wyllie 
retired  early  in  bad  health,  and  earned  great  credit  in 
several  political  offices  held  by  him  at  home.  Sir  Charles 
Bernard  and  Sir  Charles  Grant  both  rose  to  the  higher 
posts  in  India,  and  might  undoubtedly  have  succeeded  to 
Governorships  had  they  not  retired  before  the  conclusion 
of  their  term  of  service.  Sir  Alfred  Lyall  became  Foreign 
Secretary,  then  Lieutenant-Governor  of  the  N.W.  Provinces, 
later  Vice-President  of  the  Indian  Council,  and  is  now 
one  of  the  very  few  members  of  the  service  who  have 
attained  to  the  honours  of  the  Privy  Council.  Sir  Charles 
Elliott  was  member  of  the  Viceroy's  Council,  and  later 
Lieutenant-Governor  of  Bengal,  and  is  well  known  as  an 
authority  on  a  variety  of  subjects,  not  all  restricted  to 
India.  So  Temple's  subalterns  may  be  said  to  have  done 
him  credit ;  and  he  generously  acknowledged  in  his  official 
reports,  and  on  other  occasions,  that  in  his  many  difficulties 
in  starting  his  successful  administration  of  the  Central 
Provinces  he  had  received  assistance  from  me. 

Temple  was  soon   busily  employed  in  collecting    inform- 
ation  for   his   first   report   on   the  Central   Provinces.      He 


temple's  manner  of  working  83 

had  earned  great  credit  for  his  share  in  the  Punjab  reports, 
and  the  Government  required  of  him  a  full  and  descriptive 
account  of  the  Provinces,  which  hitherto  had  been  a  terra 
incognita,  and  regarding  which  little  official  information 
was  on  record.  For  this  purpose  he  visited  in  due  course 
every  single  district  in  the  Province,  and  interviewed  every 
one  credited  with  any  knowledge  of  the  people  and  the 
country.  It  was  a  very  general  and  very  unfair  complaint 
in  those  days  that  "  he  picked  men's  brains."  Now  it  was 
obvious  that  he,  as  a  new  arrival,  must  be  quite  ignorant 
of  the  circumstances  of  the  Provinces.  The  Government 
required  the  information  to  be  collected  and  placed  before 
them.  So  Temple  naturally  went  to  the  local  officers  as 
those  best  qualified  to  supply  the  information  required, 
which  was  duly  sifted  and  recorded,  supplemented  by  the 
Chief  Commissioner's  own  observation,  the  result  of  further 
inquiries.  In  his  reports  Temple  invariably  gave  credit 
to  those  who  assisted  him.  So  the  brain  -  picking  com- 
plaint ever  appeared  to  me  to  be  preposterously  unfair. 
I  accompanied  him  always  on  tour,  and  did  "  devil "  for 
him  in  most  of  his  reports,  as  has  been  very  handsomely 
acknowledged  from  time  to  time  in  his  several  publica- 
tions. When  he  had  some  important  report  on  hand,  his 
method  would  be  to  send  servants  and  all  necessaries  to 
some  selected  bungalow,  situated  at  a  picturesque  spot  at 
perhaps  twenty  miles  from  headquarters,  and  well  away 
from  all  society  distractions.  Here  there  was  no  risk  of 
being  disturbed  save  by  the  daily  post  -  bag,  which,  so  far 
as  official  documents  were  concerned,  was  restricted  by  the 
Secretary  at  headquarters  to  papers  of  urgent  importance. 
We  would  both  work  hard  all  the  morning  and  afternoon, 
taking  our  amusements  in  the  evening,  he  with  his  sketching- 
block  and  brush,  I  with  my  gun  or  fishing-rod.  There, 
after  two  or  three  days'  outing,  with  the  report  complete 
to  its  last  polish,  we  would  gallop  back  to  Nagpore,  and 
the  daily  routine  of  office -boxes  and  dinner-parties  would 
recommence. 


84  UP-COUNTRY   AND    THE    CENTRAL    PROVINCES 

I  now  propose  to  exhibit,  as  it  were,  certain  selected 
lantern  -  slides  from  my  collection,  so  as  to  give  some  idea 
of  our  life  at  Nagpore  in  those  remote  days,  and  as  explain- 
ing the  difficulties  and  surprises  that  beset  the  path  some 
fifty  years  ago  of  those  connected  with  the  administration  in 
that  new  and  distant  Province  of  the  Indian  Empire. 

A  commencement  will  be  made  with  an  episode  intro- 
ducing one  of  the  distinguished  native  inhabitants,  a  man  of 
the  old  school,  who  is  entitled  to  first  place  in  this  notice  of 
the  country  which,  until  shortly  before  our  arrival,  had  been 
under  the  rule  of  the  Bhonslah  Rajah  of  Nagpore. 

The  Province  had  always  been,  as  Sir  Alfred  Lyall  well 
describes  it  in  his  delightful  verses  printed  later  on,  the 
Cinderella  of  India,  and  Temple,  the  new  Governor,  had  to 
try  and  provide  many  necessaries  which  the  more  favoured 
Provinces  had  long  enjoyed.  Thus  a  Museum  was  started, 
and  all  the  zeal  of  the  district  officers  and  that  of  the 
native  chiefs  and  landholders  enlisted  in  the  collection  of 
objects  of  interest  for  the  new  institution.  The  fiat  went 
forth  that  every  one  was  invited  to  bring  into  Nagpore  all 
that  was  "marvellous  and  rare,"  and  a  special  "durbar"  or 
function  was  announced  for  the  reception  of  the  leading  local 
nobles  and  landholders  assisting  in  this  meritorious  object. 
As  is  always  the  case,  there  was  no  small  competition  among 
the  nobles  to  minister  to  the  hobby,  as  it  was  regarded,  of 
the  great  man.  But  some  earnest  workers  had  rather  vague 
ideas  of  the  class  of  rarity  suitable  for  a  museum  collection. 
The  durbar,  to  which  all  the  leading  people  of  the  Province 
had  been  invited,  was  opened  with  much  state  and  ceremony 
in  the  great  hall  of  the  Residency.  Temple,  seated  on  a  red- 
velvet  chair  of  state  placed  on  a  dais,  commenced  to  explain 
the  object  of  the  assembly  in  an  impressive  speech  in  the 
vernacular,  and  dwelt  on  the  desirability  of  all  bringing  in 
what  was  uncommon  and  "rare,"  and  repeated  and  dwelt 
upon  the  word  "  rare."  An  old  chief  from  a  wild  part  of  the 
Province,  who  was  seated  in  the  front  row,  suddenly  held  up 
his  hand  as  does  a  schoolboy  in  class  when  anxious  to  get  in 


A    MUSEUM    SPECIMEN  85 

his  reply  to  some  question,  and  echoing  the  "  rare,"  with 
an  excited  yell  shouted  out,  "  Yes,  Lord  of  the  World, 
Rare  !  "  The  old  chap  was  quieted  with  some  difficulty, 
and  Temple,  who  was  annoyed  at  the  interruption,  continued 
his  address,  returning  in  due  course  to  his  great  point,  the 
importance  of  collecting  all  that  was  "rare."  This  was  too 
much  for  the  old  chief.  Loudly  re-echoing  the  "rare,"  he 
struggled  towards  his  servants,  who  were  in  the  verandah  of 
the  hall  watching  the  proceedings,  and  received  from  the 
hands  of  a  retainer  a  young  goat,  which  immediately  com- 
menced to  make  melody  to  the  interruption  of  the  formal 
proceedings.  Pressing  forward  to  where  the  great  man 
stood,  and  attempting  to  thrust  the  precious  gift  into 
Temple's  hands,  the  old  fellow  held  up  a  fifth  leg,  with 
which  the  goat  was  endowed,  and  which  with  its  screams 
made  it  an  object  of  much  interest  and  attention  to  all  the 
natives  assembled.  The  durbar  was  restored  to  order  with 
no  little  difficulty,  and  not  a  few  of  the  audience  found  it 
hard  to  understand  why  the  great  man  was  so  little  apprecia- 
tive of  a  contribution  which  certainly  in  their  eyes  had  the 
merit  of  being  both  marvellous  and  rare ! ! ! 

The  next  slide  is  of  a  later  date,  and  exhibits  an  incident 
under  Temple's  successor.  As  it  illustrates  the  character 
and  views  of  the  old  native  chiefs  of  those  bygone  days, 
dwelling  in  their  distant,  wild,  hilly,  little,  semi-independent 
States,  long  before  the  railway  and  advancing  civilisation 
had  touched  even  headquarters,  it  is  introduced  here  as  a 
companion  picture  to  the  foregoing. 

The  Central  Provinces  were  in  my  day  the  happy  hunting- 
ground  of  the  antiquary,  and  there  I  imbibed  my  first  taste 
for  prehistoric  research  under  the  distinguished  missionary, 
Mr  Stephen  Hislop,  my  friend,  whose  tragic  and  deeply- 
lamented  death  occurred  two  years  after  my  arrival.  He 
laughingly  held  that  no  one  bearing  the  Breton  name  of 
"  Carnac  "  could  fail  to  be  interested  in  dolmens  and  the 
like,  and  at  an  early  date  of  our  acquaintance  introduced 
me  to  a  group  of  prehistoric  tumuli  near  Nagpore,  which 


86  UP-COUNTRY   AND   THE    CENTRAL    PROVINCES 

afforded  me  later  much  occupation.  This  subject  has  ever 
since  been  one  of  my  favourite  hobbies,  and  I  recognise  that 
it  is  to  Mr  Hislop  that  I  owe  my  early  election  to  the  Society 
of  Antiquaries,  and  to  some  of  the  Royal  Academies  and 
many  of  the  learned  societies  of  Europe. 

One  of  Temple's  successors  in  the  government  of  the 
Central  Provinces  was  a  very  distinguished,  many-sided  man 
who  had  a  strong  taste  for  anthropology.  This  taste  in- 
cluded a  great  interest  in  facial  angles  and  in  the  shape  of 
skulls,  &c.,  and  at  the  date  of  his  arrival  he  was  especially 
keen  on  the  conformation  of  the  heads  of  the  hillmen  of 
India  and  the  peoples  representing  the  remains  of  the 
aboriginal  tribes.  Into  the  hilly  country  of  Central  India 
had  been  driven  by  the  advancing  invaders  from  time  im- 
memorial the  Bheels,1  the  Gondhs,  and  other  of  the  wild 
tribes,  after  the  manner  of  the  retreat  to  Wales  and  other 
hilly  regions  of  the  ancient  Britons,  as  related  in  the  histories 
of  our  childhood.  In  this  new  kingdom  the  recently  arrived 
Governor  found  himself,  so  to  speak,  in  clover.  One  of  the 
first  circulars  that  issued  from  the  Secretariat  was  no  longer 
about  sanitation  or  criminal  procedure,  but  invited  district 
officers  to  forward  the  interests  of  science  by  obtaining  for  the 
museums  and  investigators  the  skulls  of  the  aboriginal  tribes. 
Dear  old  Bernard,  then  Secretary,  drafted  the  circular,  sent  it 
up  in  print  to  his  chief,  and  hurrying  off  to  racquets,  enjoined 
the  printer  to  strike  off  this  urgent  circular  at  once  and 
issue  it  without  delay,  as  soon  as  it  was  returned  approved  by 
the  chief.  The  great  man,  who  also,  perhaps,  was  in  a  hurry, 
had  running  in  his  mind  the  desirability  of  getting  skulls  for 
his  private  collection.  So  he  added  "in  duplicate"  to  the 
circular.2     The    harassed  district  officers   thus  found  them- 

1  An  eloquent  description  of  the  Bheel  from  the  pen  of  a  native  schoolboy  has 
already  been  given  on  p.  38. 

2  The  only  known  approach  to  this  proposed  arrangement  of  "skulls  in  dupli- 
cate" is  the  device  of  the  crafty  American  showman  who  found  his  entertainment 
languishing  from  the  counter-attraction  of  the  show  next  door.  His  rival  was  daily 
drawing  large  crowds  by  having  on  view  the  skull  of  Robespierre.  But  he  who 
claimed  to  have  the  biggest  show  on  earth  was  not  to  be  outmatched  by  such  a 
trifle.       In  a  few  days'  time  he  had  carefully  arranged  in  a  row  as  a   counter- 


DANGERS   OF   ANTHROPOLOGICAL    RESEARCH  87 

selves  faced  with  the  difficult  problem  of  finding  aboriginal 
native  gentlemen  endowed  with  a  pair  of  skulls  apiece  to 
satisfy  the  hobby  of  the  new  Chief  Commissioner. 

The  order  very  nearly  had  a  tragic  result  in  one  district, 
and,  for  what  I  know,  may  not  have  escaped  those  results  in 
some  others.  All  in  the  Provinces,  Europeans  and  Natives 
alike,  were  anxious  to  carry  out  the  wishes  of  the  new  ruler, 
and  far  away  on  tour,  in  a  wild  hill  tract,  the  district  officer 
explained  to  an  old  native  chief  how  anxious  he  was  to  make 
a  good  collection  of  skulls  to  gratify  the  whim  of  the  Chief 
Commissioner.  "  I  am  with  you,"  said  the  astute  old  fellow, 
"  and  quite  understand  what  is  wanted  ;  there  is  plenty  of 
material  in  my  State."  The  next  morning,  when  riding  back 
to  camp,  the  officer  came  across  a  long  procession  of  Gondhs, 
young  and  old,  roped  together,  and  being  driven  along  by 
matchlock-men  to  the  old  chief's  palace.  They  howled  out 
with  one  accord  at  the  European  officer,  imploring  mercy, 
and  affirming  they  were  guilty  of  nothing  deserving  instant 
death.  The  Deputy-Commissioner  turned  back  to  the  palace, 
and  there,  sure  enough,  he  found  a  good-sized  block  and  an 
accomplished  headsman  in  attendance,  and  all  in  readiness 
for  immediate  execution.  When  the  old  chief  was  remon- 
strated with,  he  urged,  "  Why  not,  Lord  of  the  World  ?  I 
have  plenty  of  them.  No  ?  But  you  told  me  that  the 
Great  -  Man  wanted  these  skulls,  and  how  else  could  I 
possibly  get  them  ? "  These  Gondhs  were  fortunately 
respited,  to  the  old  chief's  disgust.  But,  nevertheless,  a 
fine  collection  was  made,  in  duplicate,  under  less  tragic 
circumstances,  and  the  magnate  carried  the  selected  skulls 
away  with  him,  together  with  other  treasures  collected  during 
his  long  service  in  the  East.  In  due  course  he  had  to  retire 
from  the  service,  and  he  sent  home  his  treasures  stored  in 
cases,  and  enjoined  his  wife,  who  was  in  England,  to  open 

attraction  the  thirty-five  skulls  of  Robespierre,  from  the  first  year  of  his  birth  to  the 
date  of  his  lamented  death.  The  other  show  was  soon  deserted,  and  it  is  stated 
that  in  that  out-of-the-way  part  of  the  United  States  it  is  still  popularly  supposed 
that  prominent  politicians  shed  their  skulls  annually,  as  the  well-known  local  snake 
does  its  skin. 


88       UP-COUNTRY  AND  THE  CENTRAL  PROVINCES 

them  up  and  have  them  arranged  against  his  arrival.  Mi- 
lady had  been  at  home  a  long  time,  being  ill,  and  had  left 
India  before  her  husband  had  developed  anthropological 
hobbies.  As  ill-luck  would  have  it,  the  first  of  the  cases 
opened  contained  the  beloved  skulls.  The  astonished  lady 
was  not  a  little  alarmed  and  horrified,  and  ordering  im- 
mediately a  second-class  funeral,  had  what  she  justly  deemed 
human  remains  buried  in  a  suburban  cemetery.  And  there, 
on  her  lord's  return  home,  he  found  his  precious  collection 
entombed.  And  there,  I  am  informed,  it  remains  to  the 
present  day,  as  nothing  but  a  special  Act  of  Parliament,  they 
tell  me,  can  reclaim  human  remains  when  once  buried  in 
one  of  our  cemeteries ! 


89 


CHAPTER    V. 


AT     NAGPORE. 


1862-1864. 

European  Society — "Camp  fashion" — Ladies  in  Lower  Bengal — The 
terrors  of  precedence,  its  difficulties  and  pitfalls  —  The  army 
chaplain  and  his  new  rank  —  My  blunder  —  The  amende  —  A 
secretary's  announcement. 

TIGERS  I  have  known  —  First  experience  at  Dacca — Tiger  on  ele- 
phant—  Tigers  in  the  Chandah  district  —  Merited  appreciation  of 
the  tiger  by  Mr  Rees,  M.P.  —  The  tiger's  place  in  the  village 
economy  —  The  "virtuous"  tiger  —  Relapse  from  virtue  —  Cattle- 
killer  and  man-eater  —  Death  of  a  village  scourge  —  Tiger  killed 
on  top  of  a  man  —  My  Swiss  servant  improves  my  tiger-skins — 
Merits  of  spherical  bullets  at  close  quarters — The  panther — Tragic 
death  of  Lieutenant  St  John  Shaw,  R.H.A. — The  brave  Gondh 
beater — His  reward,  and  consequent  domestic  ruin. 

A  search  in  the  Nagpore  record  -  room  —  Original  despatches  of 
General  Wellesley  (Duke  of  Wellington)  —  "  Wesley  Sahib's  " 
certificate  in  hands  of  a  native  landholder  —  Camping  —  The 
Chief  Commissioner's  big  camp  —  Temple  on  the  march  —  His 
patience  with  natives  —  Flying  camp  across  Baitool  —  Major 
Baldwin  and  his  district  notes — Gives  me  the  idea  of  a  Gazetteer 
—  My  proposal  —  Testimony  of  Sir  Alfred  Lyall  —  Great  Indian 
Gazetteer  of  Sir  William   Hunter  follows. 

The  social  or  "  society "  side  of  our  life  at  Nagpore  now 
claims  some  attention,  and  an  attempt  must  be  made  to 
show  the  conditions  under  which,  half  a  century  ago,  we 
Europeans  lived  and  made  "  Society,"  with  a  big  S,  in  the 
centre  of  India  some  five  hundred  miles  from  the  coast, 
and  before  improved  communications  had  come  to  help 
to  mitigate  the  many  difficulties  of  the  situation. 

As    every    article    of    European    manufacture    had    to    be 


go  AT   NAGPORE 

dragged  by  bullock-cart  over  several  hundreds  of  miles  of 
often  indifferent  roads,  "  Europe  goods,"  as  they  were 
termed,  were  expensive,  and  could  not  be  freely  indulged  in 
save  by  those  with  large  salaries.  For  furniture,  and  the 
appurtenances  of  a  house,  the  residents  depended  mainly  on 
the  chattels  collected  by  former  officials  at  periods  more  or 
less  remote.  An  officer,  in  taking  over  an  appointment, 
would  generally  take  over  at  the  same  time  the  chairs, 
tables,  and  other  belongings  of  his  predecessor.  The  Parsee 
general-provider  would  have  on  hand  some  few  odds  and 
ends  belonging  to  unfortunates  who  had  died  or  had  left 
the  station  without  being  able  to  dispose  of  certain  unin- 
viting domestic  articles.  But  the  choice  was  limited.  A 
few  high-placed  officials  had  real  houses,  furnished,  after  the 
fashion,  with  massive  round  tables  and  chairs  of  an  early 
Georgian  era.  And,  thanks  to  the  liberality  of  former  days, 
there  were  generally  several  really  good  houses  available 
for  the  senior  officers.  The  smaller  fry  lived  in  somewhat 
temporary  bungalows,  dear  to  scorpions  and  white  ants. 
Here  the  furniture  was  mostly  of  the  well-known  "  camp  " 
description  —  folding  -  tables,  and  the  dangerous,  gin  -  like 
folding-chair,  which  would  suddenly  double  up  and  clamp 
an  unfortunate  young  man,  as  a  gin  does  a  rat,  when  he 
was  perhaps  paying  a  visit  of  ceremony.  All  living  was  on 
about  the  same  scale.  That  is  to  say,  the  biggish-wigs, 
with  furniture  and  houses,  gave  occasional  dinners,  or  barra- 
khanas  as  they  were  termed,  with  white  soup,  tinned 
salmon,  a  saddle  of  mutton,  a  turkey  and  ham,  and  tinned 
vegetables,  with  sweets  in  proportion.  And  there  would  be 
wine  of  sorts,  according  to  the  conscience  of  the  host.  In 
the  modest  establishments  dinners  were  dependent  on  the 
distribution  of  the  joints  by  the  weekly  mutton-club.  If  it 
was  your  turn  for  the  saddle,  and  you  were  hospitably 
inclined,  you  invited  one  or  two  allies,  and  perhaps  a  lady 
or  so.  Of  these,  however,  the  choice  was  limited,  for,  when 
first  coming  to  distant  parts,  a  man,  if  he  had  a  wife, 
generally  sent  her  home  until   he  could  sample  the  climate 


NAGPORE    IN    THE    'SIXTIES  gi 

and  social  surroundings  of  his  new  station.  On  such  festive 
occasions,  the  rule  was  that  if  you  had  any  special  delicacy 
on  hand,  you  then,  picnic  fashion,  contributed  it  to  the 
feast.  Your  table-servant  always  attended,  and  probably  he 
would,  by  an  understanding  with  the  head  -  man  of  your 
host,  carry  with  him  your  convert  complete  —  knife,  fork, 
spoon,  and  the  silver  goblet  that  accompanied  you  always 
in  camp,  and  had  survived  several  generations  of  cheap 
table-glass.  In  those  days  beer  was  the  drink  even  of  those 
who  had  attained  high  rank.  The  brandy-and-water  which 
the  Anglo-Indian  was  supposed  to  indulge  in  to  excess  had 
been  drained  off  before  my  day.  But  every  one  was  very 
particular  about  his  beer.  This  was  seldom  indulged  in,  by 
those  who  had  hard  office-work  to  do,  until  after  the  sun 
had  gone  down.  Some  old  files,  indeed,  could  stand  it  even 
in  the  middle  of  the  day,  and  all  of  us  took  our  bottle  at 
luncheon  on  high  days  and  holidays,  and  at  a  Sunday 
"  tiffin." 1  One  looked  forward  longingly  to  the  cooled 
drink  at  dinner,  to  the  beer  that  seemed  to  be  even  as  both 
meat  and  drink.  There  were  several  rival  brands  in  those 
days,  all  of  which  had  their  special  devotees  and  adherents. 
And  one  got  accustomed  to,  and  absolutely  required,  not 
only  a  certain  mark  of  beer,  but  beer  in  a  certain  condition  ; 
and  one's  happiness  might  be  entirely  destroyed  by  one's 
host  either  producing  a  brand  which  one  abhorred,  or  by 
his  having  you  served,  perhaps,  with  the  correct  brand,  but 
still  in  a  condition  too  ripe  for  your  taste  or  digestion. 
Thus,  then,  it  was  understood  that,  your  happiness  being  so 
much  dependent  on  it,  you  were  permitted  to  send,  together 
with  your  knife  and  fork,  even  your  own  beer,  which  your 
man  served  to  you,  placing  the  bottle  the  while,  if  un- 
finished, under  your  chair.  Now  and  then  a  ball  was  got 
up.  But  the  dearth  of  ladies  militated  much  against  the 
result.  This  class  of  dissipation  was  more  successfully 
carried  out  at  the  military  station  of  Kamptee,  ten  miles 
off.      Temple,  notwithstanding   all   one's   endeavours,    never 

1  See  ante,  p.  53. 


92  AT   NAGPORE 

would  favour  this  type  of  entertainment,  and  held  in  prefer- 
ence the  hateful  b arra -khan as,  or  huge  dinner-parties,  the 
terrors  of  which  I  would  do  my  utmost  to  temper.  After 
the  banquet  Temple's  sketches  would  be  on  view.  And 
although  many  of  the  pictures  were  of  real  merit,  there 
were  some  ill-natured  persons  who  considered  that  they  got 
rather  too  much  of  the  artistic  sequel  to  the  dinner-parties. 
I  cannot  pretend  that  in  those  days  the  society  side  at 
Nagpore  was  inviting.  Still,  we  were  better  off  than  they 
were  at  some  little  stations  in  favoured  Bengal.  For  on  my 
writing  an  account  of  our  doings  and  social  shortcomings 
to  my  friend  Horace  Cockerell,  with  whom  I  kept  up  a 
correspondence,  with  many  others  of  my  friends,  during  my 
exile  from  Calcutta,  he  replied,  "  Well,  after  all,  you  are 
not  so  badly  off.  I  am  sent  to  this  place  to  officiate  for 
six  months.  Here  there  are  three  ladies,  and  they  all 
drink  beer  with  their  soup."  Further  details  were  perhaps 
unnecessary.  But  we,  the  young  men,  had  our  compensa- 
tions, and  were  much  better  off  than  the  few  poor  ladies. 
There  were  racquets  every  evening,  the  tent-club  once  a-week, 
and  the  neighbouring  station,  with  some  soldier-officers  not 
red-tape  bound,  and  then  the  swimming-bath,  and  a  club, 
in  embryo,  for  whist.  Lastly,  there  were  the  neighbouring 
jungles  and  their  delights.  But  I  must  not  anticipate 
my  tiger-slides,  and  must  return  to  describe  some  of  the 
pitfalls  that  society,  even  in  those  out-of-the-way  parts, 
occasionally  prepared  for  the  reception  of  the  unwary  like 
myself. 

Here  at  Nagpore,  dating  from  very  early  days,  the  demon 
of  precedence,  with  the  jealousies  and  complications  attend- 
ant thereon,  had  duly  invaded  society,  and  had  swollen  to 
unusual  proportions  as  the  place  became  peopled  with  new 
officials  of  departments  hitherto  unrepresented.  The  pre- 
cedence squabble  is  often  very  unfairly  debited  to  India  as 
a  noxious  growth  produced  by  the  unwholesome  climate  of 
that  unjustly  accused  land.  As  a  fact,  it  exists  wherever 
military  and  naval  men  are  gathered  together.     In  England, 


THE    PRECEDENCE    PUZZLE  93 

apart  from  garrison  towns,  much  is  not  heard  of  it,  because 
in  general  society,  military  and  naval  rank  not  being  re- 
cognised, precedence  is  confined  to  those  comparatively  few 
in  number  who  have  real  rank.  But  amongst  these  last, 
precedence,  clearly  laid  down  by  royal  warrant,  is  as  scrupu- 
lously observed  as  in  India,  as  any  big  dinner  in  London 
during  the  season  would  show.  In  India  the  case  is  quite 
different.  There  precedence  is  regulated  by  official  rank. 
At  Nagpore  the  society  was  composed  entirely  of  officials, 
to  each  one  of  whom  was  assigned  by  royal  warrant  either 
the  military  precedence  of  his  rank,  or,  if  a  civilian,  certain 
"relative  rank,"  which  caused  him  to  rank  with  a  major  or 
a  colonel,  as  the  case  might  be,  and  which  rank  and  prece- 
dence encompassed  his  wife  also.  This  had  to  be  carefully 
observed  in  sending  your  guests  to  dinner  on  all  official 
and,  often  for  convenience'  sake,  on  private  occasions  also, 
and  the  complications  connected  therewith  caused  from 
time  to  time  no  inconsiderable  upheavals  among  our 
officials  and  their  belongings. 

I  got  into  serious  trouble  at  Nagpore  in  those  early  days 
over  the  precedence  of  a  reverend  clergyman  and  his  wife. 
It  was  Christmas  week,  and  to  Temple  occurred  the  hideous 
idea  of  one  of  his  big  parties,  or  of,  as  he  called  it,  "open- 
ing the  hospitality  of  the  Residency  to  all  and  sundry  in 
the  station."  It  was  hardly  a  part  of  my  official  duty,  but 
living  with  him  at  Government  House,  I  would  try  and 
help  in  working  out  the  precedence  list  on  these  com- 
plicated occasions.  With  appointments  and  appliances 
which  would  hardly  dine  more  than  a  dozen  persons  com- 
fortably, Temple  would  sometimes  let  the  invitation  list 
swell  to  some  sixty  or  seventy  souls,  and  the  necessary 
arrangements  caused  no  small  difficulty  and  anxiety. 

At  Nagpore  we  were  on  the  confines  of  the  Bengal, 
Bombay,  and  Madras  Presidencies,  and  officers  of  all  these 
three  armies  served  there.  Every  one  of  these  knew  exactly 
his  own  place  on  the  list,  and  whether  he  ranked  above  or 
below   his   military   neighbour.      The    difference   often   was 


■94  AT    NAGPORE 

one  of  a  few  days  only,  but  told  all  the  same.  Besides 
the  soldiers,  whose  cases  were  comparatively  simple,  there 
were  the  members  of  the  Civil  Service  and  other  men  in 
all  sorts  of  other  minor  civil  departments,  all  enjoying 
"relative  rank."  On  the  occasion  of  a  banquet  such  as 
above  mentioned,  it  was  necessary  then  that  the  position 
of  each  one  of  these  to  the  other  should  be  laboriously 
worked  out.  A  Bengal  civilian  ranked  with  a  major  after 
twelve  years'  service.  Then  the  forest  officer  got  this  rela- 
tive rank  after,  say,  sixteen  years'  service,  an  irrigation 
officer  after  fifteen  years,  the  police  officers  after  so  many 
more.  So  the  number  of  different  sums  to  be  worked  out 
on  varying  lines  on  a  big  occasion  like  that  impending,  so 
as  to  assign  to  each  guest  his  proper  place,  was  simply 
"  kollosal !  "  I  had  made  out  the  list  laboriously  for  this 
stupendous  Christmas  party,  when  the  reverend  gentleman 
above  mentioned  and  his  wife  arrived  incontinently  at  Nag- 
pore  and  called  at  the  Residency.  He  was  an  army  chap- 
lain, and  the  pair  had  made  the  journey  from  Madras  after 
weeks  of  jolting  in  a  bullock- coach,  and  were  bound  for 
Agra.  Of  course  Temple  had  them  invited  to  the  banquet, 
and  of  course  they  came.  In  a  hurry,  just  before  dinner, 
I  had,  in  what  I  thought  my  wisdom,  classed  his  reverence 
as  a  captain,  and  in,  together  with  the  captains  and  their 

ladies,  did  the   Rev.   Mr  and  Mrs  go  to  the  feast,  by 

which  I  mean  that  they  were  paired  off  with  possessors  of 
that  rank,  and  marched  into  dinner  accordingly.  I  thought 
that  the  reverend  gentleman  seemed  somewhat  reserved  after 
dinner,  but  put  that  down  to  Temple  having  asked  the  local 
missionary  to  say  grace  instead  of  this  chaplain.  But  the 
next  morning  the  real  cause  of  the  discomfiture  was  revealed. 
There  came  a  letter  from  the  aggrieved  cleric  addressed  to 
Temple  direct.  He  pointed  out  in  finely  rounded  periods 
to  the  Chief  Commissioner  that  by  Her  Majesty's  warrant 
he,  as  a  chaplain,  had  the  honour  to  rank  as  a  major  in 
the  army,  and  that  his  wife  enjoyed  the  same  status;  that 
they  had  both  been  surprised  and  pained  on  the  previous 


A    CLERICAL    CLAIM  95 

evening  to  find  that  what  was  undoubtedly  their  right  by 
royal  warrant  had  been  ignored  by  the  young  secretary, 
who,  if  he  might  be  allowed  to  say  so,  had  mismanaged 
the  arrangements  of  an  otherwise  interesting  function.  I 
was  furious,  and  wanted  Temple  to  allow  me  to  write  back 
and  say  the  pair  had  come  in  at  the  last  moment,  when  all  the 
lists  and  arrangements  had  been  completed,  and  that  they 
should  be  grateful  that  they  had  been  included  at  all.  But 
with  Temple,  who  had  a  proper  dread  of  the  church 
militant,  wiser  counsels  prevailed.  He  made  me  bring 
forth  the  Army  List,  and  between  us  we  worked  out  an 
elaborate  sum,  which,  when  duly  checked,  conclusively 
proved  that,  three  days  before  the  arrival  of  his  reverence 
and  his  lady  at  Nagpore,  they  had  both  attained,  whilst 
travelling  in  the  bullock -coach  along  the  dusty  road,  to 
the  dignity  of  major  in  the  army,  with  precedence  accord- 
ing. And  that  I  had  sent  them  both  down  as  only  captains 
I  was  guiltily  forced  to  admit.  Temple,  with  his  own  hand, 
was  then  pleased  to  write  a  letter  expressing  deep  regret  for 
the  unfortunate  mistake,  and  as  the  bullock-coach  and  its 
occupants  left  Nagpore  the  next  day,  I  was  spared  their 
further  wrath.  But  time  and  age  soften  one's  prejudices, 
and  permit  me  after  nearly  a  half- century  of  interval  to 
judge  the  reverend  pair  less  harshly  than  I  at  first  did. 
I  can  now  realise  the  excusable  elation  with  which  they  both 
recognised  the  arrival  of  their  new  rank  when  it  overtook 
them  in  their  bullock  -  coach  on  the  long  dreary  road  up- 
country.  The  function  at  the  Residency  was  an  unexpected 
opportunity  of  wearing  their  three-days-old  dignity,  and  my 
bungling  must  have  been  a  severe  disappointment.  But 
considering  it  was  Christmas  time,  and  that  he  was  a  parson, 
I  do  not  think  he  need  have  been  so  insistent  in  demanding 
my  blood.  If  in  this  truthful  recital  the  sympathy  of  my 
audience  is  more  with  me  than  with  my  clerical  exposer, 
I  think  they  may  agree  that  it  would  have  served  the 
reverend  gentleman  right  had  he  been  gibbeted  as  even 
was  the  pompous  old  civilian  in  the  following  anecdote  of 


96  AT    NAGPORE 

a  somewhat  similar  precedence  claim  that  occurred  to  my 
knowledge  in  another  part  of  India. 

A  Governor  in  one  of  the  northern  provinces  had  a  cheery 
private  secretary,  who  had  little  sympathy  with  those  who 
fussed  over  their  precedence.  It  was  related  how,  as  the 
company  once  assembled  on  the  occasion  of  a  big  dinner- 
party at  Government  House,  a  pompous  old  civilian,  button- 
holing the  secretary  before  the  arrival  in  the  room  of 
his  chief,  said,  in  his  hot  desire  to  secure  the  first  place, 
"  I  think  it  ought  to  be  generally  known  that  I  rank 
before  everybody  in  this  room.  I  have  seen  the  list  of 
those  invited  this  evening,  and  know  I  am  the  senior  of 
all."  In  due  course  the  Governor  entered  and  made  the 
tour  of  his  guests,  saying  a  few  words  to  most  of  those 
assembled.  Then  there  was  the  usual  silence  and  a  halt 
in  the  proceedings,  and  the  secretary,  addressing  his  chief, 
declaimed  in  a  loud  voice  before  the  whole  company,  "  May 
it  please  your  Honour,  Mr thinks  it  ought  to  be  gener- 
ally known  that  he  ranks  before  every  single  person  in  this 
room."  In  the  meantime  the  old  party  had  rushed  forward, 
attempting  to  check  his  tormentor,  who,  however,  persisted, 
adding,  "  You  said  you  thought  it  ought  to  be  generally 
known,  and  how  then  could  I  better  advertise  the  fact 
than  here  ?  " 

After  a  surfeit  of  uninteresting  station  dinner  -  parties, 
accompanied  by  unedifying  squabbles  relating  to  preced- 
ence, it  may  be  a  relief  to  get  away  from  stuffy  rooms 
into  the  far  healthier  air  of  the  neighbouring  jungles,  which 
will  admit  of  my  bringing  out  some  of  my  favourite  slides, 
— those  of  my  experiences  with  the,  to-day,  almost  unknown 
tigers.  Though  these  experiences  are  not  confined  to  my 
first  years  at  Nagpore,  these  sketches  may  be  found  to  fit 
in  conveniently  here  as  a  foil  to  the  details  of  station-life, 
which,  little  interesting  as  they  are,  cannot  well  be  omitted 
from  what  claims  to  be  a  notice  of  our  existence  in  that 
part  of  India  during  the  early  years  of  my  service. 


INTRODUCTION    TO   TIGER-SHOOTING  97 


TIGERS. 

For  in  what  purports  to  be  a  collection  of  Indian  notes 
it  is  as  necessary  to  introduce  one  or  two  stories  about 
tigers  as  it  is  obligatory  in  an  Eastern  landscape  to  sketch 
in  at  least  one  palm-tree  in  the  foreground,  and  with  per- 
haps two  or  three  in  the  middle  distance. 

As  I  went  out  to  India  now  just  fifty-one  years  ago,  my 
statement  that  I  have  in  my  early  days  had  the  advantage 
of  meeting  some  tigers  will  probably  be  credited.  Nowadays, 
though  tigers  are  still  to  be  found  in  out-of-the-way  districts, 
they  must,  in  face  of  the  advance  of  cultivation  and  civilisa- 
tion, be  becoming  rare.  And  although  the  native  magnates 
may  be  expected  to  continue  to  preserve  a  few  of  this  rare 
species  for  the  visits  of  some  royal  personage  or  specially 
favoured  friend  of  the  local  Governor,  the  average  young 
civilian's  knowledge  of  the  tiger  will  probably  soon  be  con- 
fined to  a  study  of  the  subject  in  its  cage  at  the  Zoological 
Gardens. 

My  first  introduction  to  tiger-shooting  was  in  the  Dacca 
district,  where  my  cousin,  C.  F.  Rivett-Carnac,  a  mighty 
hunter,  was  then  magistrate.  During  the  first  three  days 
I  was  present  at  the  slaying  of  several  tigers,  and  even  got 
a  bullet  into  one  of  these.  On  the  last  day  I  had  the  un- 
pleasant experience  of  the  tiger  up-top  of  my  elephant, — an 
experience  I  have  no  desire  to  repeat,  save  on  paper.  One 
of  the  party  had  wounded  a  tigress,  and  we  were  following 
her  up  in  high  grass,  when,  suddenly,  she  charged  my 
elephant.  I  admit  that,  up  to  the  present  day,  I  have  an 
excited  remembrance  only  of  what  occurred.  I  was  quite 
taken  aback,  lost  what  little  coolness  I  possessed,  and  firing 
off  both  barrels  of  my  gun  wildly,  missed  the  tigress,  and 
allowed  her  to  get  on  to  the  elephant's  head.  Before  going 
into  action  I  had  had  visions  of  what  one  would  do  if  the 
elephant  was  so  attacked,  and  how,  leaning  forward  grace- 
fully,   one   would   put   a   bullet   through    the    tiger's    head. 

G 


0,8  AT    NAGPORE 

All  these  visions  were  entirely  dissipated  by  the  event.  The 
tigress  once  up,  I  found  it  as  much  as  I  could  possibly  do,  by 
clinging  to  the  sides,  to  keep  myself  from  being  shaken  out 
of  the  howdah  in  which  I  was  seated.  The  elephant  made 
desperate  efforts  to  shake  off  the  foe,  and  ultimately  suc- 
ceeded, but  not  until  my  guns  and  paraphernalia  had  all 
gone  by  the  board.  Then  began  a  mad  gallop  by  the 
affrighted  elephant  through  the  open.  Fortunately,  we  were 
in  grass,  not  in  tree-jungle,  otherwise  that  elephant's  flight 
might  have  meant  crashing  through  trees,  and  the  howdah 
and  its  occupants  being  swept  off  and  smashed.  The  ele- 
phant made  straight  for  camp,  and  I  got  to  my  tent,  having 
escaped  with  little  more  than  a  severe  shaking.  My  guns 
were  retrieved  later  by  one  of  the  party.  There  were, 
however,  some  of  the  sportsmen  who  thought  that  the 
mahout  (elephant -driver)  had  much  to  do  with  the  beast's 
rapid  return  to  camp,  and  that  neither  mahout  nor  elephant 
had  much  confidence  in  my  prowess  after  the  double  miss 
at  the  tigress  at  such  close  quarters.  Later,  I  had  a  bullet 
in  a  fine  tiger  we  killed  actually  on  the  Dacca  racecourse, 
so  close  up  was  the  jungle  in  those  happy  days. 

I  saw  no  more  of  the  tiger  for  one  or  two  years,  until 
I  was  Settlement  Officer  in  the  Chandah  district  of  the 
Central  Provinces,  a  paradise  for  the  sportsman  and  the 
artist.  Situated  in  the  wild  country  south  of  Nagpore, 
between  the  Godavery  and  Wyngunga  rivers,  the  district  in 
those  days  was  little  explored,  and  with  extensive  forests  and 
pleasant  hills  and  a  profusion  of  artificial  lakes,  or  tanks  as 
they  were  called,  it  was  the  home  of  every  sort  of  game. 
The  country  being  wild,  and  it  being  recognised  as  a  part 
of  a  European  officer's  duty  to  kill  any  really  troublesome 
tiger,  the  Government  had  specially  sanctioned  an  elephant 
for  the  use  of  the  settlement  officer,  and  dear  old  Bernard,1 
my  predecessor,  had  taken  care  that  that  elephant  should 
be  of  the  staunchest  and  best.  So  when  the  hot  season 
came  on,  and   the  jungle  was  in  order,  life  was  indeed   a 

1  The  late  Sir  Charles  Bernard,  K.C.  S.  I. 


MR    REES,    M.P.,    ON    TIGERS  gg 

delight.  In  my  old  age  many  a  pleasant  memory  of  that 
beautiful  country  and  those  happy  days  comes  back  to  me 
from  time  to  time,  with  a  fierce  desire  to  be  in  camp  again, 
in  the  wilds  amid  the  tigers,  the  hills,  trees,  and  lakes  of 
beautiful  Chandah.  And  before  going  further  I  would 
desire  to  add  my  humble  testimony  to  what  has  been  so 
ably  advanced  in  defence  of  the  character  of  the  tiger  by 
Mr  Rees,  M.P.,  in  a  recent  letter  to  'The  Times.'  There 
is  no  doubt  that  the  tiger  is  often  unfairly  debited  with 
sins  of  which  he  is  entirely  innocent.  If  a  jealous  husband, 
for  example,  in  some  remote  village  summarily  disposes  of 
an  errant  wife,  the  corpse  will  be  thrown  near  the  jungle 
at  nightfall,  and  in  the  morning,  when  the  jackal  and 
hyena  have  mangled  the  remains,  the  police  will  be  in- 
formed of  another  tiger-kill  to  swell  the  Government  returns. 
The  police,  for  a  few  rupees,  will  accept  the  story  readily 
enough.  And  the  village  neighbours  will  much  prefer  that  a 
tiger  be  unfairly  accused  than  have  a  murder  case  opened  up, 
which  will  bring  many  of  the  police  to  the  village  and  result 
in  a  long  and  expensive  investigation.  In  this  manner,  too, 
the  character  of  the  snake  is  often  unfairly  maligned. 
Domestic  differences  settled  out  of  court  are  put  down 
to  him,  the  unjust  accusation  being  sustained  for  reasons 
similar  to  those  given  above.  In  the  jungle  the  tiger  has 
his  place  in  the  local  economy,  just  as  the  cat  has  in  the 
villager's  house  or  barn.  He  is  necessary  to  keep  down 
the  vermin.  In  the  districts  of  which  I  speak  the  tiger 
was  easiest  found  in  the  jungle  on  the  outskirts  of  the 
cultivation,  where  game  was  plentiful.  If  he  was  what  I 
may  call  a  "virtuous"  tiger,  that  is,  one  in  good  health, 
who  hunted  and  lived  on  game,  he  was  respected,  nay, 
even  beloved,  by  the  villagers.  For  in  these  wild  districts 
the  jungle  impinges  on  the  cultivation,  and  the  deer,  pig, 
and  other  wild  animals  are  most  destructive  to  the  crops. 
One  or  two  healthy  tigers,  then,  would  be  regarded  as  a 
real  blessing,  as  without  them  the  game  would  flourish 
and   increase  too  exceedingly.      The  "virtuous"  tiger   gen- 


100  AT    NAGPORE 

erally  lived  in  some  spot  well  known  to  the  villagers,  far 
up  a  ravine  and  near  a  spring.  He  remained  there  during 
the  heat  of  the  day,  and  generally  did  business  among  the 
big  game  at  night,  when  the  timid  deer  came  down  to 
the  small  lake  to  drink,  and  the  families  of  porkers  came 
out  on  the  same  errand.  Such  tigers  the  villagers  would 
not  like  to  see  disturbed,  as  they  were  regarded  as  part 
of  the  village  economy,  and  were  certainly  more  useful 
than  some  of  the  village  servants.  But  there  were  other 
tigers,  regular  jungle -wallahs,  attached  to  no  village  com- 
munity, who  lived  far  away,  well  in  the  jungle,  and  fed 
on  the  game  there,  and  to  whom  no  villager  owed  allegi- 
ance. With  these  you  might  do  as  you  liked.  And  there 
was  yet  another  class,  a  thoroughly  unrighteous  tiger,  whose 
death  was  eagerly  sought,  who,  killing  cattle,  and  some- 
times even  men,  was  the  terror  of  the  countryside.  He, 
or  she,  was  generally  some  originally  virtuous  tiger  who, 
perhaps  from  no  fault  of  his  own,  had  fallen  on  evil  times, 
and  who,  from  accident,  a  wound,  or  disease,  or  old  age, 
being  no  longer  able  to  hunt  successfully  the  wild  game,  was 
perforce  obliged  to  take  to  some  food  secured  with  less 
difficulty.  Some  weak,  lagging  bullock  would  perhaps  be 
the  first  prey.  Then,  maybe,  it  would  happen  that  the 
tiger,  emboldened  by  success,  would  go  for  some  fat  cow 
from  among  the  herd.  The  herdsman  would  come,  and 
with  shouts  try  to  drive  the  beast  off.  But  hunger  giving 
courage,  the  wicked  one  would  turn  on  the  man,  and  find, 
to  its  amazement,  that  he  of  whom  the  whole  tiger  family 
had  ever  been  in  terror  went  down  before  the  blow  even 
more  easily  than  did  a  bullock.  From  that  day  forward 
that  tiger  would  confine  himself  to  the  villagers,  and  be- 
coming a  confirmed  man-eater,  would  remain  the  scourge 
of  the  countryside.  Of  this  class  I  killed  in  my  time  but 
one  only,  and  he  had  a  hideously  bad  record,  and  was 
debited  with  the  death  of  seventeen  men  and  women.  A 
petition  came  to  me  from  a  village  in  the  south-eastern 
corner   of  the   district    to   go   thither   and   exterminate   the 


TIGER  SHOT  ON  TOP  OF  A  MAN  101 

brute.  I  got  him  the  second  day  over  the  body  of  a 
woman  he  had  killed.  The  beast  was  not  very  old,  but 
much  out  of  condition.  His  off  hind  leg  had  been  broken 
by  a  heavy  slug  from  a  native  gun,  and  the  animal  was 
quite  lame  and  unable  to  hunt  the  jungle  game.  So  his 
depravity  was  not  without  some  extenuating  circumstances. 
This  tiger  was  killed  in  the  early  afternoon.  Soon  the 
news  of  his  death  spread  far  and  wide,  and  that  hot- 
weather  evening  my  camp  was  visited  by  hundreds  of 
persons  from  the  neighbouring  villages  rejoicing  in  the 
death  of  the  common  enemy,  for  the  beast  had  included 
several  villages  in  his  beat  and  taken  toll  from  them  all. 
The  people  inspected,  spat  at,  and  abused  the  carcase  of 
the  tiger ;  then  interviewing  me,  praised  my  prowess  and 
virtues  with  many  a  Wah  -  wall !  And  that  hot  -  weather 
night  was  rendered  hideous  by  their  rejoicings,  celebrated, 
alas !  with  the  consumption  of  much  country  liquor,  and  by 
an  unusual  amount  of  tom-toming  and  nasal  accompaniments. 
I  had  one  hideous  experience,  in  seeing  a  man  seized  by 
a  tiger  within  a  few  yards  of  me  and  being  unable  to  save 
his  life.  It  was  the  24th  May  (the  Queen's  birthday), 
a  very  hot  day  of  the  hottest  season  of  the  year.  I  had 
had  to  come  into  Chandah  sick  with  fever.  In  the  morning 
a  half-caste  employe  of  the  Telegraph  Department  came  to 
tell  me  there  was  a  tiger  close  to  the  wall  of  the  city.  As 
he  heard  I  was  too  ill  to  go  out  myself,  he  begged  for  the 
loan  of  my  Government  elephant  to  help  him  to  dispose 
of  the  beast.  It  would  have  been  as  the  dog  -  in  -  the- 
manger  to  refuse,  so  reluctantly  I  let  my  elephant  go. 
About  eleven  o'clock  my  elephant  and  mahout  returned, 
both  violently  perturbed.  The  tiger,  the  latter  told  me, 
was  there  sure  enough.  It  had  come  out  of  its  lair,  and 
both  the  East-Indian  and  his  mate  had  fired  and  missed, 
but  the  tiger,  on  his  part,  had  slightly  clawed  the  elephant 
during  the  retreat.  The  elephant,  mahout,  and  I  myself 
had  all  been  dishonoured,  the  mahout  said,  and  it  was 
absolutely   obligatory   I   should   go    at  once   and    dispose  of 


102  AT    NAGPORE 

that  tiger  and  wipe  out  the  insult  and  disgrace  caused  to 
the  whole  establishment.  I  put  on  some  clothes  and  crawled 
into  the  how d ah.  Oh,  the  heat  of  that  hot  day !  But  the 
excitement,  and  even  the  fierce  hot  wind,  seemed  to  revive 
me,  and  when  near  to  the  spot  I  was  quite  ready  for  the 
fray.  I  found  that  this  tiger  had  taken  refuge  in  a  deep 
hole  on  the  side  of  a  dry  water -course  within  a  few  yards 
from  the  wall  of  the  city  of  Chandah,  from  which  a  crowd 
had  come  out  to  see  the  fun.  The  hole  in  the  bank  had 
been  made  in  digging  for  white  clay,  and  was  large  and 
deep.  The  tiger,  all  the  people  said,  was  there  in  the  hole. 
According  to  some  he  was  dead,  having  been  badly  wounded 
in  the  morning  by  the  East -Indian  sportsman,  who,  the 
mahout  had  declared,  had  missed  the  mark  nobly.  Attempts 
had  been  made  to  smoke  the  tiger  out,  but  without  success. 
I  soon  cleared  the  water-course  of  the  crowd  of  idlers  from 
the  city,  and  posting  myself  on  the  elephant  on  the  top  of 
the  bank  above  the  hole,  had  the  fire  lit  again.  Notwith- 
standing the  smoke,  no  tiger  appeared.  The  sun's  heat 
was  fierce,  I  was  feeling  faint,  and  had  just  opened  a  bottle 
of  soda-water  when,  with  a  sudden  roar  and  rush,  out  came 
the  tiger.  Unluckily  in  the  water- course  had  remained, 
notwithstanding  all  my  efforts  to  clear  it  of  spectators,  a 
sowar1  of  my  police  escort  who  had  assisted  in  lighting 
the  fire  at  the  cave's  mouth,  and  was  swaggering  about  in 
his  long  cavalry  boots  in  a  reckless  manner.  In  an  instant 
the  tiger  was  upon  him  and  had  him  down.  I  shall  never 
forget  the  look  the  man  gave  me,  seeming  to  implore  me 
to  do  my  best  at  once  to  save  him.  There  was  no  time 
to  consider  whether  there  was  danger  of  hitting  the  man 
in  firing,  and  I  let  off  both  barrels  of  my  gun  almost  sim- 
ultaneously. The  tiger  was  not  twenty  yards  off  me,  and 
fortunately  one  bullet  broke  the  beast's  spine  and  rolled 
him  over,  freeing  the  man.  The  sight  of  him  in  the  beast's 
clutches  was  such  as  to  haunt  me  for  many  a  long  day. 
On  a  big  scale  it  resembled  the  shaking  of  a  mouse  by  a 

1  Native  trooper. 


FATE    OF    MY   TIGER-SKINS  IO3 

cat ;  and  the  helplessness  of  the  man  under  such  conditions, 
and  the  enormous  strength  of  the  tiger,  were  most  hideously 
impressive.  The  sowar  was  hardly  severely  mauled,  but 
he  was  in  bad  health,  and  an  opium-eater;  the  shock,  too, 
had  been  terrible,  and  he  died  the  next  evening. 

That  year  I  brought  back  with  me  five  tiger- skins  to 
Nagpore,  and  fortunately  sent  away  three  as  presents.  For 
a  sad  fate  awaited  the  remaining  two.  There  passed  through 
the  station  at  the  commencement  of  the  rains  a  Swiss, 
who  had  been  a  waiter  and  a  steward,  and  was  making 
his  way  across  country  to  Bombay.  The  chaplain,  to  whom 
he  went  for  assistance,  sent  him  over  to  me,  saying  I  might 
like  to  talk  German  to  him.  I  gave  him  shelter  in  my 
bachelor  establishment,  and  in  return  he  made  himself 
useful  in  a  variety  of  ways.  It  ended  in  my  taking  him 
on  as  a  servant,  and  he  proved  thoroughly  efficient  and 
trustworthy.  Having  to  go  down  to  Bombay  for  ten  days, 
I  left  him  in  charge  of  the  establishment.  On  my  return 
I  found  him  beaming  with  satisfaction,  and  desirous  of 
showing  me  all  he  had  done  during  my  absence.  There 
had  been  a  thorough  spring  -  cleaning,  and  he,  after  the 
manner  of  his  Swiss-kind,  had  polished  up  all  the  furniture 
and  made  the  whole  place  look  bright  and  clean.  He  took 
me  into  the  double-bedded  guest-room,  kept  in  those  days 
for  the  many  friends  who  passed  through  Nagpore,  bound 
Bombay-ward,  and  there  he  had  to  show  me  the  crowning 
triumph  of  his  handiwork.  To  all  who  travel  on  the  Conti- 
nent is  the  descente  de  lit  familiar, — a  narrow,  oblong  strip 
of  carpet  placed  beside  each  bed  in  a  foreign  inn,  and  often 
the  only  bit  of  drugget  to  be  found  in  the  room.  There, 
aligned  carefully  against  the  side  of  each  bed,  was  one  of 
these  monstrosities  to  which  he  proudly  invited  my  atten- 
tion. But,  to  my  horror,  these  narrow  strips  were  my  two 
best  tiger-skins,  which  I  had  kept  back  to  send  to  Ward, 
to  be  mounted  in  his  best  style,  and  to  remain  with  me  in 
my  declining  years  as  a  memory  of  my  jungle  days,  and 
as  a  joy  for  ever.     Finding   my  establishment  wanting  in, 


104  AT    NAGPORE 

to  his  mind,  this  most  necessary  adjunct  of  the  descente  de  lit, 
the  faithful  fellow  had  put  himself  to  supply  the  void  and 
to  provide  a  surprise  for  me.  And  this  latter,  certainly, 
he  had  succeeded  in  doing.  My  two  best  tiger-skins  had 
been  squared  with  mathematical  precision.  The  heads, 
tails,  and  legs  and  claws  had  all  been  shorn  off.  Any  loss 
in  this  respect  had,  according  to  his  view,  been  more  than 
balanced  by  a  fringe  of  red  cloth  running  round  the  parallelo- 
gram with  which  each  descente  de  lit  had  been  supplied.  His 
disappointment  at  my  want  of  appreciation  of  his  handiwork 
was  only  equalled  by  my  horror  at  the  fate  of  my  two  best 
skins.  Poor  fellow,  he  meant  well,  though  his  zeal  was  a 
trifle  embarrassing.  He  served  me  faithfully,  and  left  me 
a  year  later  to  return  to  his  native  mountains,  being  a 
German  Swiss  from  near  Lucerne.  But  he  got  no  farther 
than  Bombay,  dying  there  of  cholera  the  day  before  the 
sailing  of  the  Austrian-Lloyd  steamer  in  which  I  had  got 
him  a  place  for  the  voyage  as  steward. 

After  leaving  the  Central  Provinces  I  had  seldom  a  chance 
of  tiger-shooting,  save  on  an  occasional  Viceregal  progress. 
I  may  mention  that  I  shot  all  my  tigers  with  a  double- 
barrelled  muzzle-loader,  which  "young"  Charles  Lancaster 
(as  he  then  was)  chose  for  me  just  before  I  went  out  to 
India  in  1858,  for  in  those  days  the  breech-loader  was  only 
just  making  its  first  appearance.  My  weapon  was  of  the 
best.  With  a  spherical  bullet  and  a  heavy  charge  of  powder 
behind  it,  the  tiger,  shot  at  close  quarters,  had  little  chance, 
so  severe  was  the  shock.  And,  under  similar  conditions,  I 
used  to  prefer  the  spherical  to  the  conical  bullet,  which  a 
twig  or  a  bone  may  deflect,  whilst  a  round  ball  smashes 
through  all  opposition,  and  flattening  and  coming  out  at 
the  other  side  leaves  a  ghastly  wound. 

The  tiger,  it  may  be  added  to  his  credit,  is  not  usually 
aggressive  unless  wounded  or  cornered.  But  a  tigress  with 
cubs  is  to  be  avoided1   as  much  as  possible  when  one   is 

1  As  with  the  bear  so  also  with  the  tiger,  speaking  generally.  The  native  boy 
wrote  :  "The  bear  is  a  pleasing  animal,  and  will  not  attack  unless  offended.  But 
his  ideas  of  offence  are  peculiar.     Therefore,  it  is  well  to  avoid  the  bear." 


DEATH    OF    LIEUT.    ST  JOHN    SHAW,    R.H.A.  IO5 

unarmed.  In  my  day  I  have  several  times  in  the  jungle, 
when  on  horseback  or  on  foot,  come  across  a  tiger,  and  he 
has,  so  to  speak,  invariably  taken  off  his  hat,  apologised, 
got  out  of  the  way,  and  passed  on.  I  am,  therefore,  in- 
clined to  believe  that  the  ancient  story  of  the  lady  who, 
meeting  a  tiger  one  morning  in  a  narrow  path  in  the  jungle, 
in  her  terror  suddenly  opened  her  parasol  and  thus  put  the 
pusillanimous  tiger  to  flight,  is  probably  no  romance,  and 
that  any  lady  of  the  present  day  (I  would,  however,  hardly 
recommend  any  one  of  the  sex  to  repeat  the  experiment) 
might  hold  the  field  under  similar  conditions.  An  un- 
wounded  tiger  will  invariably  slink  away  before  an  elephant. 
With  the  panther,  a  hideous  animal,  it  is  different.  Many 
experienced  sportsmen  hold  that  he  will  generally  open  the 
attack.  In  my  time  I  saw  three  only,  two  of  which  I 
bagged.  So  far  as  I  remember,  we  both  attacked  simul- 
taneously. But  the  panther  is  a  terrible  brute,  more  active 
and  savage  than  the  tiger.  It  is  he,  too,  who  occasionally 
has  been  found  to  be  the  dreaded  man-eater  when  villagers 
have  been  carried  off  from  their  beds  at  night  in  the 
verandahs  of  their  houses,  or  dragged  out  of  the  machans, 
or  platforms,  on  which  they  sat  guarding  the  crops.  During 
my  second  year  at  Nagpore  a  friend  of  mine,  Lieutenant 
St  John  Shaw,  a  very  handsome,  smart  horse-gunner,  an 
excellent  shot,  and  first-rate  all-round  sportsman,  and  a  great 
favourite  with  us  all,  was  the  victim  of  one  of  these  brutes. 
Some  years  afterwards  I  was  lunching  at  Simlah  with  Lord 
Mayo,  and  found  H.E.  and  the  aides-de-camp  much  ex- 
ercised over  what  they  regarded  as  a  rather  tall  story, 
related  by  Sir  R.  Temple  at  dinner  the  evening  before. 
But  the  facts  were  as  then,  and  now  again,  stated.  Shaw 
was  out  shooting  in  the  Baitool  district  with  the  local 
police  officer.  A  panther  was  afoot ;  Shaw  climbed  into 
a  tree  to  get  a  shot  at  the  brute.  It  was  in  the  days 
before  breech  -  loaders.  Shaw  saw  the  beast,  fired,  and 
wounded  it.  Before  he  had  time  to  reload,  the  panther 
was  up  the  tree  after  him.  Unluckily  the  second  barrel 
missed  fire,  and  in  another  moment  Shaw,  lugged   out   of 


106  AT   NAGPORE 

the  tree,  had  fallen  to  the  ground,  and  the  panther  was  on 
top  of  him,  worrying  him.  A  native  policeman,  posted  in 
a  neighbouring  tree,  seeing  what  was  happening,  shrieked 
the  alarm,  whereupon  the  panther,  leaving  Shaw,  went  for 
the  policeman,  and  pulling  him  also  out  of  his  tree  mauled 
him  badly,  returning  later  to  again  worry  Shaw,  who  was 
lying  on  the  ground  badly  mauled  and  calling  for  help. 
Suddenly  a  Gondh  1  beater,  hearing  the  shouts,  rushed  out 
of  the  jungle,  nearly  stepping  upon  poor  Shaw  and  the 
panther.  In  an  instant  the  brave  fellow  drove  the  stout 
spear  which  he  carried  right  through  the  backbone  of  the 
panther,  pinning  it  to  the  earth,  much  as  one  affixes  a 
butterfly  with  a  pin  to  a  specimen -tray.  The  rest  of  the 
party  coming  up,  found  both  Shaw  and  the  policeman  still 
alive,  but  desperately  mauled.  The  panther  was  dead, — 
Shaw's  bullet  and  the  Gondh's  spear-thrust  had  been  too 
much  for  it.  The  brave  fellow  was  still  holding  on  to  the 
spear  pinning  the  body  of  the  panther  to  the  ground,  and 
seemed  to  think  little  of  the  achievement.  But  his  bravery, 
alas  !  failed  to  save  either  life,  and  both  the  wounded  men 
died  soon  after  they  had  been  carried  into  the  station  of 
Baitool.  The  Gondh,  who  failed  to  understand  what  all  the 
attention  bestowed  upon  him  meant,  and  considered  he 
had  performed  only  a  commonplace  action,  was  the  hero 
of  the  hour.  I  have  now  before  me,  taken  from  "  my 
archives  "  as  Temple  called  them,  a  faded  sheet  of  foolscap 
paper  on  which  I  wrote  an  appeal  to  all  sportsmen  to  give 
a  small  subscription  towards  rewarding  that  brave  Gondh 
for  his  valour.  The  subscription-list  was  limited  to  five 
rupees,  and  the  paper  bears  the  names  of  nearly  all  in  the 
station.  The  story  of  that  Gondh  was  copied  into  many 
newspapers  throughout  India,  and  donations  came  pouring 
in  to  me  from  all  sides  for  this  fund.  Eventually  we  were 
able  to  set  that  brave  fellow  up  in  comfort  in  a  clearing 
we  purchased  for  him,  close  to  the  scene  of  his  plucky 
exploit.     We   gave   him   some   cattle,   helped   him   to  build 

1  Wild  hill-tribe. 


THE  NAGPORE  RECORD-ROOM  10J 

a  wigwam,  and  encouraged  some  fellow-tribesmen  to  squat 
near  him,  so  that  there  was  soon  a  village,  which  we  named 
"  Shaw-gunge  "  in  memory  of  our  poor  friend.  But  I  grieve 
to  have  to  record  that  prosperity  bringing  to  that  brave 
but  unfortunate  young  Gondh  -  man  several  wives,  and  as 
many  troubles,  his  after  -  life  proved  neither  domestically 
nor  agriculturally  a  success,  so  that  the  name  of  Shaw- 
gunge  is  no  longer  included  in  the  Settlement  record  of  the 
Baitool  district. 

Returning  from  this  tiger  shoot,  which  has  taken  us  rather 
far  afield,  and  coming  back  to  the  office  in  the  Nagpore 
Residency,  where  we  are  now  to  spend  part  of  a  hot,  muggy 
afternoon  in  the  rains,  I  have  to  relate  my  pleasant  ex- 
periences in  turning  upside-down  the  contents  of  a  dusty 
old  cupboard,  and  searching  for  papers  of  interest  of  bygone 
times.  The  oldest  of  these  dated  from  the  days  of  the 
appointment  of  a  Resident  to  the  court  of  Nagpore,  the 
Agent  to  the  Governor-General  as  he  was  sometimes  called. 
Now,  during  the  whole  period  of  the  Mahratta  war, 
Nagpore  was  not  far  removed  from  the  scene  of  military 
operations  in  the  Nizam's  territory  of  Berar,  in  the  south- 
western corner  of  which  General  Wellesley  had  gained  the 
celebrated  victory  of  Assaye.  It  must  evidently  have  been 
the  duty  of  the  Resident  all  that  time  to  keep  in  communi- 
cation with  the  army,  and  do  all  that  was  required  to 
supply  the  troops  from  the  rich  districts  around  Nagpore. 
So  I  was  hopeful  of  discovering  correspondence  with  the 
General, — despatches,  perhaps,  relating  to  the  movements 
and  successes  of  our  troops  during  those  stirring  times.  I 
had  actually  seen,  and  could  have  obtained  from  the  man 
had  I  been  mean  enough  to  do  so,  a  certificate  kept  by  a 
native  landholder  of  the  Wurdah  district,  given  his  ancestor 
by  the  "  Genraal  Wesley  Sahib,"  and  testifying  to  the 
bearer  having  assisted  in  procuring  supplies.  What  that 
old  cupboard  contained  has  now  to  be  told. 

The  records  of  the  old  Nagpore  Residency  contained  much 


108  AT    NAGPORE 

that  was  interesting,  but,  unfortunately,  they  were  in  very 
bad  order.  A  pernicious  habit  obtained,  even  well  into  my 
time,  of  folding  all  letters  in  four.  The  paper  might  be  fairly 
good,  yet  the  folding  and  unfolding  broke  the  fibre  ;  and 
then  there  was  the  constant  nuisance  of  opening  out  the 
files,  unfolding  and  folding  up  again  the  papers,  and  tying 
up  the  file  with  the  traditional  red  tape.  In  time  came 
an  improved  system  of  folding  all  papers  down  the  centre, 
and  long  ere  now  is  the  approved  plan  in  vogue  by  which 
the  paper  lies  out  flat  like  a  book,  and  is  not  folded  even 
when  placed  in  an  envelope,  the  cover  being  made  of 
appropriate  dimensions.  I  am  afraid  to  say  how  many 
of  these  dusty  little  bundles  I  untied,  unfolded,  refolded, 
and  repacked,  without  ever  getting,  so  to  speak,  a  bite. 
But  at  last  all  my  trouble  was  more  than  repaid  by  a 
splendid  fish,  glorious  beyond  all  expectations.  A  bundle 
marked  in  the  cramped  hand  of  a  native  clerk  of  many 
years  before,  "  Letters,  chiefly  from  Mr  Roplang,"  did  not 
seem  to  promise  much.  But  the  first  few  papers  on  the 
top  came  near  the  description,  being  letters,  or  rather  official 
despatches,  signed  by  a  Major  Ross  Lang,  who,  I  found 
to  my  joy,  was  no  other  than  a  staff-officer  of  one  General 
Wellesley,  who  had  written  to  the  Nagpore  Resident  of 
the  day  for  information  regarding  supplies,  in  view  of 
certain  operations  imminent  in  the  adjoining  territory  of 
Berar.  As  I  went  deeper  the  interest  increased ;  "  Mr 
Roplang's"  school-boyish  characters  disappeared  before  a 
clearer,  firmer  handwriting.  The  signature  was  in  the 
same  hand  as  the  writing  in  the  body  of  the  letter,  and 
there  it  stood  before  me,  "  Arthur  Wellesley."  I 
bounded  off  my  chair  in  delight,  and  leaving  the  rest  of 
the  bundle  scattered  on  the  floor,  I  rushed,  unannounced, 
into  Temple's  room,  waving  my  find  and  disturbing  a 
grumpy  old  public  works  officer,  who  was  busy  explaining 
to  the  Chief  Commissioner  the  beauties  of  some  hideous 
building-plan  proposed  for  a  dak-bungalow,  or  similar 
departmental    monstrosity.      Temple,    to    his    credit    be    it 


GENERAL   WELLESLEY'S    DESPATCHES  log 

recorded,  left  the  plans  and  the  demonstrator,  and  was 
soon  helping  me  in  the  search.  In  an  hour's  time  we 
had  landed  a  dozen  holograph  despatches  of  him  who  was 
later  the  great  Duke  of  Wellington.  There  were  other 
despatches  not  written  but  only  signed  by  the  great  man. 
And  in  these  it  was  noticeable  that  the  practice  was  not, 
as  now,  for  the  despatch  to  bear  the  signature  only  of  the 
sender,  but  that  the  whole  of  the  dedication  was  in  the 
handwriting  of  the  official.  Apparently  this  was  because 
of  the  variety  of  expression  employed  in  the  concluding 
sentences.  These  were  not  confined  to  the  "your  obedient 
servant "  of  to-day,  but  expanded  into  the  most  honorific 
or  affectionate  addresses.  Thus  were  to  be  seen,  "  I  have 
the  honour  to  subscribe  myself,  Sir,  with  the  sentiments  of 
profound   respect    and    admiration,    your   obedient,    humble 

servant, ."      Or,    "Sir,   yours    with    real   devotion   and 

the  warmest  affection   and  regard,  ."     The  scribe,  who 

could  not  guess  to  what  lengths  his  employer's  respect 
or  affection  might  carry  him,  was  constrained  to  leave 
this  complimentary  part  to  be  filled  in  according  to 
circumstances. 

I  shall  never  forget  the  pleasurable  excitement  of  that 
hot  afternoon  in  the  record -room  at  Nagpore.  I  have 
seldom  experienced  anything  like  it,  save,  perhaps,  when 
the  long-awaited  tiger  has  at  last  appeared,  or  when  the 
legend  of  some  very  rare  coin  has  been  developed,  after 
careful  cleaning,  from  a  chance  find,  picked  up  in  a  handful 
of  rubbish  in  an  up-country  bazaar.  This  find  of  Wellington 
autographs,  interesting  as  it  was,  did  not  contain  any 
unpublished  despatches  of  the  great  man.  Like  other 
officials,  he,  perforce,  had  a  letter-book,  and  into  this  his 
despatches,  when  he  had  written  them  off,  were  copied  in 
due  course.  And  from  these  books  was  Gronow's  collection 
subsequently  copied  out  and  printed. 

But  interesting  as  the  old  records  were,  it  was  never 
given  to  me  to  remain  long  at  the  office  at  Nagpore. 
Save  when  the  heavy  rains  rendered  road  and  river  utterly 


HO  AT   NAGPORE 

impassable,  Temple,  whether  the   days   were   hot   or   cold, 
was,   during   the  first  two  years  of  his  reign,   ever  on  the 
move.      If  a  district  was  fairly  near,  it  could  be  visited  by 
laying  out  horses,  and  perhaps  sleeping  at  a  dak-bungalow 
half-way.      But   some  distant  parts  of  the  Provinces  were 
only  to  be  reached  by  what  was  termed  "  regular  camping  " — 
that  is,    marching   along  a  high-road  with  a  big   camp  at 
the  rate  of  about  ten  miles  a-day.      From  this  main  camp 
as  a  base,  flying   camps   could  be   sent   out   from   selected 
points.     When    it   was    necessary   to    spend   a   considerable 
time  at  a  great  distance  from  Nagpore,  the  big  camp  was 
a  necessity.     This   consisted  of  huge  tents  for  state  occa- 
sions,  durbars,    or   occasional   receptions   to   the   European 
residents  at  large  stations.     These  tents,  difficult  to  pitch, 
were  carried,  together  with  all  the  other  paraphernalia,  in 
carts  that  creaked  along  at  a  very  slow  pace,  and  rendered 
the  keeping  to  the  high-road  obligatory.     The  Chief  Com- 
missioner had  his  handsome  office  and  sleeping  tents,  whilst 
there  were  tents  for  the  staff,  and  dining  and  reception  tents, 
the  large  durbar  tents  being  generally  used  for  this  latter 
purpose.     On  such  a  march  the  actual  staff  would  be  limited 
to   myself  and    a   medical   officer   in    charge   of   the   camp. 
Sometimes  the  Secretary  in  the  Public  Works  Department 
and   the    Inspector- General    of   Police  would  join,   and  be 
included  as  belonging  to  headquarters.      This,  with  a  few 
clerks,  made  up  the  centre  party.      But  the  big  camp  was 
attended  by  half  a  dozen  or  more  smaller  camps  as  escort. 
Thus    with    the    Chief    Commissioner    on    such    occasions 
marched  the  Commissioner  of  the  Division  or  sub-province 
through  which  the  camp  was  passing.      The  Deputy-Com- 
missioner of  the  district  and  the  Deputy  Inspector-General 
of  Police  were  also  in  attendance,  and  these  brought  with 
them  the  Assistant  -  Commissioner  and  the  District   Police 
officer.      Then  there  were   also  the   Engineer  in  charge  of 
roads  and  buildings,  whilst  the  Educational  officer  of  the 
circle,    the    Forest    officer,    and    occasionally    an    Irrigation 
Engineer,  would  march  with  us  to  the  limit  of  their  charges 


A    BIG    CAMP  III 

to  demonstrate  matters  connected  with  their  departments, 
or  to  settle  any  questions  that  might  arise. 

Each  one  of  these  officials  would  have  his  own  camp, 
which  would  be  pitched  in  line  with  that  of  the  Chief 
Commissioner  according  to  the  rigid  rules  of  precedence 
among  these  officials.  Then  the  native  magistrate  of  the 
beat,  the  tehsildar  as  he  was  called,  was  never  absent  for 
a  moment,  having  to  satisfy  the  continuous  demands  of  all 
these  officials  and  their  retinues  for  supplies  of  every  sort 
and  description.  The  escort  would  consist  of  a  company 
of  Native  Infantry  under  a  European  officer,  whom  I  ought 
to  have  included  in  the  personal  staff,  whilst  a  detachment 
of  the  old  Mahratta  Cavalry,  now  being  transformed  by 
degrees  into  mounted  police,  escorted  the  cavalcade  on  each 
march,  and  carried  urgent  despatches.  When  the  number 
of  servants  and  horses  that  accompany  each  official  is 
remembered,  it  will  be  understood  how  huge  was  the 
gathering  in  all  its  parts.  Most  officers  had  a  double 
supply  of  tents,  one  to  inhabit  and  a  duplicate  to  send  on 
at  night  to  be  ready  for  the  arrival  on  the  morrow.  All 
the  Chief  Commissioner's  tents  were  duplicated,  so  it  can 
be  imagined  how,  on  the  march,  the  baggage-train  resembled 
that  of  a  small  army.  Temple  always  rode  the  marches, 
and  it  was  considered  de  rigueur  for  all  the  other  officers  to 
do  the  same,  though  several  attempted  to  shirk  the  ordeal. 
And  the  cavalcade,  as  it  started  in  the  morning  with  the 
cavalry  escort  in  their  light  -  blue  uniforms,  was  quite  im- 
posing. There  were  occasional  halts  on  the  way  to  inspect 
certain  points  and  to  listen  to  native  petitioners.  At  the 
end  of  the  march  the  Chief  Commissioner  would  be  met 
by  the  whole  staff  of  the  neighbouring  district,  and  by  a 
mass  of  native  officials,  sightseers,  petitioners,  and  the  local 
musicians,  who,  with  tom-toms  and  other  weird  instru- 
ments, would  make  music  of  a  very  decided,  if  inharmonious, 
description.  The  actual  staff  were  the  guests  of  the  Chief 
Commissioner.  All  the  other  officers  had  their  own  camp 
arrangements,  and  were  invited  from   time  to  time  to  join 


112  AT    NAGPORE 

the  table  at  the  big  tent.  On  these  marches  there  was  ever 
a  very  heavy  amount  of  work  to  be  done,  as  Temple  in- 
spected everything,  and  the  Secretary  had  always  to  be 
present  to  make  notes  and  to  issue  orders.  But  he  could 
occasionally  get  away  for  a  morning's  shooting,  or  a  run 
after  a  pig.  Temple,  unfortunately,  was  no  sportsman.  All 
interest  in  this  respect  had  been  early  denied  to  him  by  an 
accident  whilst  at  Rugby  to  one  of  his  eyes,  and  I  do 
not  think  I  ever  saw  him  handle  a  gun.  On  arrival  at  a 
big  station  there  were  durbars  and  parties  to  the  European 
officials.  Here  and  on  the  march  Temple  was  ever  most 
accessible  to  all  the  natives.  He  had  an  excellent  plan  of 
suddenly,  on  the  road,  getting  together  a  crowd  of  men 
who  awaited  the  cavalcade,  and  dismounting  and  seating 
himself  with  his  staff  under  a  tree,  he  would  have  the 
native  audience  squatted  round  in  a  circle.  Then,  with 
infinite  patience,  he  would  try  and  find  out,  from  men 
selected  by  chance  from  the  crowd,  what  they  understood 
regarding  important  orders  recently  issued,  and  affecting 
their  interests.  After  a  time  the  audience  would  gain 
confidence,  and  commence  boldly  to  discuss  the  incidence 
of  some  new  tax,  or  ventilate  a  grievance  regarding  some 
recent  orders  relating  to  village  economy.  And,  as  a  story 
which  comes  in  later  will  show,  it  was  then  possible  occa- 
sionally to  discover  some  abuse,  and  to  check  some  villainy 
of  the  subordinate  officials.  Anyhow,  it  kept  all  official 
native  miscreants  in  a  constant  dread  of  being  exposed. 
The  cheeriest  time  was  in  the  flying  camp,  which  generally 
took  one  away  from  conventionalism  to  interesting  ground 
in  hilly  country,  among  beautiful  views  and  delicious  sur- 
roundings, and  away  from  the  steady  office  grind  that 
could  not  be  escaped  altogether  in  the  big  camp,  where 
all  important  work  arrived  daily,  carried  to  us  by  mounted 
troopers  or  by  the  post. 

It  is  now  proposed  to  leave  the  main  camp,  which  is 
marching  steadily  down  the  Nerbudda  valley  at  ten  -  mile 
stages,  and  after  returning  on  some  urgent  duty  to  Nagpore, 


THE    INDIAN    GAZETTEERS  II3 

to  rejoin  it  by  way  of  the  hilly  district  of  Baitool,  well 
off  the  main  road.  And  this  gives  me  an  opportunity  of 
noticing  how,  with  the  help  of  a  worthy  old  official,  a 
happy  inspiration  assisted  me  in  starting  the  Gazetteer  of 
the  Central  Provinces.  And  this  Gazetteer,  be  it  added, 
gave  the  idea  and  the  lead  to  the  preparation  of  the  great 
Indian  Gazetteer,  as  produced  under  the  able  direction  of 
the  late  Sir  William  Hunter,  for  the  whole  of  India,  and 
which  forms  so  valuable  a  record  for  all  desiring  information 
relating  to  the  Empire. 

At  a  recent  meeting  of  the  Royal  Society  of  Arts,  held 
to  commemorate  the  completion  of  a  new  edition  of  this 
Imperial  Gazetteer,  Sir  Alfred  Lyall,  who  was  in  the  chair, 
corrected  the  incorrect  views  expressed  that  the  Indian 
Gazetteers  owed  their  origin  to  Sir  William  Hunter.  Sir 
Alfred  said — and  having  been  Commissioner  at  Nagpore  the 
circumstance  must  have  been  well  known  to  him — that  the 
Gazetteers  were  first  started  in  the  Central  Provinces  in  Sir 
Richard  Temple's  time,  and  that  the  suggestion  to  compile 
these  records  came  from  me.  This  is  quite  correct,  and 
Temple,  who  was  ever  fair  and  generous,  always  gave  me 
the  full  credit  of  the  idea.  But  at  the  time  I  was  the 
Assistant-Secretary,  and  not  the  Settlement  Officer,  as  Sir 
Alfred  Lyall  supposed.  The  following  note,  however,  will 
show  that  a  part  at  least  of  the  credit  of  the  idea  belongs 
to  the  late  Major  Baldwin,  then  Deputy-Commissioner  of 
Baitool,  in  the  Province. 

In  1863  I  accompanied  Mr  Temple,  as  he  then  was,  on  his 
official  tour  through  the  Northern  Districts  of  the  Central 
Provinces,  of  which  he  was  then  the  Chief  Commissioner. 
We  halted  at  Baitool,  a  hilly  district  in  the  Sauthpoorahs, 
which  we  reached  by  flying  camp.  The  district  was  in 
charge  of  Major  Baldwin,  a  middle-aged  Deputy-Commis- 
sioner of  the  old  school,  who  had  served  long  in  the  district. 
Like  most  of  his  comrades  of  the  old  lot,  he  had  an  unholy 
mistrust  of  the  young  go-ahead  new  Chief  Commissioner, 
who   was   incorrectly   debited   with   a   desire   to    upset   and 

H 


114  AT    NAGPORE 

change  everything  in  the  country.  The  worthy  old  chap 
got  rather  mixed  under  the  volley  of  questions  fired  at  him 
by  his  new  chief,  and  by  the  close  of  the  day  Major  Baldwin 
seemed  to  be  uncomfortably  conscious  that  he  had  not  come 
very  well  out  of  the  severe  ordeal  of  the  cross-examination, 
whilst  I  realised  that  his  modesty  and  nervousness  had 
not  allowed  of  his  appearing  at  his  best.  Over  a  pipe  before 
bedtime  (Temple,  who  never  smoked,  had  already  retired), 
old  Baldwin  hesitatingly  propounded  to  me  that  he  was 
not  really  so  ignorant  of  all  relating  to  his  district  as  he 
had  made  himself  appear  to  be  under  the  cross-examination 
of  his  chief.  He  produced  a  bundle  of  papers,  and  showed 
me  a  whole  sheaf  of  notes  regarding  nearly  everything  in 
his  district,  which  he  had  jotted  down  during  his  long 
residence  in  Baitool.  Not  only  had  the  birds,  beasts,  and 
fishes,  for  which  he  had  a  real  affection,  received  full  atten- 
tion, but  the  notes  showed  keen  observation  on  most  subjects 
connected  with  the  physical  and  economic  condition  of  the 
district.  Carrying  the  bundle  away  with  me,  I  showed  the 
notes  to  Temple  at  our  next  camp,  and  he,  quite  appreciating 
them,  bade  me  return  them  to  old  Baldwin  with  a  compli- 
mentary official  letter,  which  delighted  the  old  fellow,  and 
removed  all  apprehensions  regarding  the  result  of  his  official 
inspection.  In  sending  up  to  the  Chief  Commissioner  the 
draft  of  the  letter,  I  added  a  suggestion  that  it  might  be 
well  to  encourage  all  officers  to  compile  similar  information 
regarding  their  districts,  and  to  leave  their  notes  on  record 
fo^  the  benefit  of  their  successors,  so  that  a  man's  knowledge 
would  not  be  entirely  lost  on  his  leaving  the  district.  Temple 
highly  approved  the  idea,  and,  if  I  remember  aright,  it  was 
talked  over  with  Alfred  Lyall  and  Charles  Elliott  when  we 
met  them  both  a  few  days  later  in  the  Hoshungabad  district. 
The  orders  then  went  forth  for  the  compilation  of  what  was 
the  Gazetteer  of  the  Central  Provinces,  and  which  was  edited 
by  Charles  Grant.  Later  Alfred  Lyall  undertook  the  Gazet- 
teer for  Berar.     The  Government  of  India  did  not  fail  to 


SUGGESTED    BY    ME  115 

appreciate  the  merit  of  these  beginnings,  and  determining 
to  extend  the  system  to  the  whole  of  India,  put  Hunter 
in  charge  of  the  work.  Until  then  he  had  no  connection 
with  the  undertaking,  and  had  no  hand  in  it  until  after  the 
Gazetteers  of  both  the  Central  Provinces  and  Berar  had 
been  compiled  and  published. 


n6 


CHAPTER    VI. 

IN    CAMP — BOMBAY. 
1864. 

The  so-called  Indian  bison — Old  men  and  new  methods — Deputy-Com- 
missioner No.  1 — Book-circular  on  arboriculture — The  old  officer's 
failure — The  young  civilian  No.  2 — His  marked  success  —  The 
impudent  mango  bantlings — Halts  by  the  way — The  colonel's 
discomfiture — Administrative  ability — Timely  breakfast  and  apprecia- 
tion in  camp  of  this  quality — The  hideous  secret  of  the  great  mango 
trick — Am  sworn  to  secrecy- — Punishment  of  the  peccant  tehsildar 
and  its  results  —  The  Alfred  Lyall  Avenue  in  the  Hoshungabad 
district — Afternoon  tea  on  Terrace  of  the  House  of  Commons  thirty 
years  later  —  The  two  Privy  Councillors  —  The  secret  revealed — 
Temple's  fury — Sir  Alfred  Lyall  vicariously  to  blame — The  astute 
police  inspector,  an  Indian  village  idyll — Importance  of  explaining 
orders  to  the  people — The  new  tax  and  official  seal — The  Gondh 
shikari  and  increased  tiger  reward—"  Progress  "  since  those  days — 
"The  Old  Pindaree  "—Popularity  of  Sir  Alfred  Lyall's  poem — First 
published  by  me  in  local  newspaper — Story  of  the  Temple  medal — 
His  entire  innocence  of  the  whole  matter — Proposed  as  Exhibition 
medal  during  his  absence  in  England — My  successful  opposition — 
Medal  struck  privately — Mint-master  adds  laurel-wreath  as  a  bad 
joke — Temple  unfairly  blamed — Visits  to  Bombay  with  Temple — 
The  cotton  famine — Wild  speculation — Sir  Bartle  Frere's  warning 
to  the  services — Hospitality  at  Government  House — The  Governor's 
great  charm— His  appearance  at  the  Poonah  review — Shares  offered 
to  Temple — His  righteous  indignation— His  strictness  in  this  respect 
— Insists  on  officers  banking  with  Bank  of  Bengal  instead  of  with 
native  shroffs. 

Our  journey  from  Nagpore  through  Baitool  to  rejoin  the 
main  camp,  which  was  making  its  slow  progress  down  the 
Nerbudda  valley,  took  us  across  the  jungle-clad  back  of  the 
rocky  Sauthpoorah  range,  which,  running  parallel  with  the 
river    Nerbudda,    separates    Hindustan,    or   Northern  India, 


THE    SO-CALLED    BISON  II7 

from  what  used  to  be  termed  the  Deccan, — a  vast  territory, 
including  the  Nagpore  Province,  and  extending  far  beyond 
the  limits  of  what  nowadays  is  included  under  that  name. 
The  country  is  wild  and  picturesque,  inviting  to  the  sports- 
man and  artist,  and  boasts  of  several  sacred  spots  visited 
annually  by  thousands  of  pilgrims,  who,  seeing  in  the  rocky 
peaks  some  resemblance  to  the  emblems  of  sacred  Mahadeo, 
worship  at  these  shrines,  and  sometimes  immolate  themselves 
there,  casting  themselves  down  from  the  peaks  into  the 
canons  below.  The  jungle  in  those  days  was  swarming  with 
every  variety  of  game,  and  it  was  in  this  district,  it  may  be 
remembered,  that  there  occurred  the  tragic  death  at  the 
claws  of  a  leopard  of  that  gallant  sportsman,  Lieutenant  St 
John  Shaw,  related  among  my  tiger  experiences.  On  this 
range,  too,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  what  is  now  the  sana- 
torium of  Pachmarhi,  the  site  of  which  was  selected  during 
one  of  our  tours,  were  to  be  found,  besides  the  tiger  and 
sambhur,  what  used  to  be  called  the  bison.  I  myself  never 
succeeded  in  bagging  one  of  these  much -coveted  trophies, 
though  Major  Forsyth,  the  forest  officer  who  wrote  a  well- 
known  book  on  this  tract,  once  took  me  with  him  on  an 
unsuccessful  expedition  after  them.  Years  afterwards,  when 
staying  at  Hodnet  with  the  late  Mr  Heber-Percy,  his  son,  Mr 
Algernon  Heber-Percy,  in  showing  me  over  the  remarkable 
collection  of  sporting  trophies  in  the  hall,  secured  in  all  parts 
of  the  world  by  members  of  the  family,  pointed  out  as  a  rarity 
a  splendid  head  of  a  bison,  brought  back  by  him  from  Russia. 
I  naturally  commenced  to  hold  forth  on  the  Indian  bison, 
and  was  surprised  to  hear  that  the  bison  was  not  to  be  found 
in  India.  I  was  not  quite  convinced,  and  remembering  the 
frontispiece  in  Forsyth's  book,  '  The  Highlands  of  Central 
India,'  with  the  site  of  what  is  now  Pachmarhi  and  the 
great  dark  animal  in  the  foreground,  I  took  the  first  op- 
portunity of  referring  to  the  book  at  the  British  Museum, 
and  therein,  sure  enough,  found  that  Forsyth  clearly  explains 
that  the  real  "bos"  is  not  to  be  found  in  India,  and  that 
the  Sauthpoorah  so-called  bison  is  of  a  different  and  inferior 


Il8  IN   CAMP 

specimen  to  that  of  the  Hodnet  horns.  During  this  trip  to 
rejoin  camp  we  were  in  light-marching  order,  and  hardly  had 
even  a  flying  camp.  We  put  up,  I  remember,  in  all  sorts 
of  out-of-the-way  places — in  schoolhouses,  serais  (native  rest- 
houses),  and  the  like,  which  the  local  authorities  obligingly 
made  habitable.  One  gladly  dispensed  with  all  special 
creature  comforts  in  exchange  for  the  delicious  clear  air  of 
the  higher  levels,  the  glorious  views  of  the  river  and  valley 
below,  and  the  free  life,  with  an  absence  of  ceremonial  dinner- 
parties and  office-boxes.  But  what  was  practically  a  holiday 
soon  came  to  an  end,  and  descending  along  a  very  rough  pass 
into  the  valley  of  the  Nerbudda,  we  reached  the  main  camp, 
from  which  Temple  had  been  called  back  to  headquarters  on 
urgent  business,  and  we  were  soon  again  condemned  to  re- 
commence with  guards  of  honour,  durbars,  official  interviews, 
and  the  like. 

The  big  camp  was  pitched  much  after  the  manner  described 
in  the  preceding  pages,  and  peopled  with  the  officers  therein 
enumerated,  who  received  the  Chief  Commissioner  on  arrival 
and  formed  the  cavalcade  during  the  daily  farther  progress 
down  the  valley.  It  was  during  one  of  the  marches  of  this 
pleasant  tour  that,  thanks  to  the  enterprise  of  a  subordinate 
native  official,  we  were  treated  to  the  exhibition,  on  a  large 
scale,  of  the  famous  Indian  great  mango  trick,  which,  as  it 
makes  a  good  story,  I,  Mr  Barlow-like,  "  will  now  proceed  to 
relate." 

Temple,  as  explained,  had  but  recently  commenced  his 
attempt  to  bring  these  new  Provinces  up  to  date,  and  had 
had  occasional  difficulties  with  worthy  senior  colonels  and 
majors  of  the  old  school,  who,  untrammelled  by  regulation, 
had  done  excellent  work  of  a  rough-and-ready  kind  in  their 
day,  but  were  hardly  well-attuned  to  the  high  pitch  of  the 
new  regime.  The  district  now  reached,  which  will  be  num- 
bered (i),  was  presided  over  by  a  worthy  old  colonel  of  this 
ancient  type,  who  had  found  it  difficult  to  accommodate 
himself  to  the  ideas  and  pace  of  the  changing  times  and  the 
new  school. 


INDIAN   ARBORICULTURE  Tig 

In  the  Central  Provinces,  the  new  era  was  now  one  of 
Circulars  and  Book  Circulars,  as  they  were  called,  containing 
orders  and  instructions  on  every  conceivable  subject.  It  was 
computed  that  the  Secretary,  left  behind  at  Nagpore,  as  he 
was  not  much  addicted  to  "  horse  exercise,"  composed  about 
six  of  these  interesting  documents  daily,  which,  after  having 
been  approved  by  Temple  from  camp  and  duly  scoffed  at  by 
me,  were  issued  from  Nagpore  for  the  instruction  and  con- 
fusion of  the  district  officials.  One  of  the  subjects  to  which 
Temple  attached,  and  most  properly  attached,  great  import- 
ance was  arboriculture,  including  the  planting  of  trees  along 
new  lines  of  road,  the  provision  of  groves  of  trees  at  certain 
intervals,  besides  the  much  larger  question  of  forestry.1 

Native  rulers  had  ever  given  much  attention  to  the  provision 
of  shade  by  the  way,  and  many  a  weary  traveller  during  a 
long  hot  tramp  has  recognised  their  forethought,  whilst  even 
he  who  goes  about  in  camp  to-day  has  to  thank  them  also  for 
the  glorious  mango  groves  to  be  found  at  nearly  every  stage 
of  a  main  road.  The  tree  idea  received  the  approval  even  of 
myself,  and  some  months  earlier  I  had  condescended  to  draft 
a  "  Book  Circular "  on  the  subject,  which  was  to  be  found 
sandwiched  in  between  circulars  relating  to  sanitation  and 
other  unsavoury  matters,  with  which  the  other  Secretary 
muddled  the  brains  and  broke  the  hearts  of  the  officers  of 
the  old  staff.  We  had  during  the  march  left  the  umbrageous 
main  road  to  inspect  a  new  line  joining  two  of  the  districts 
to  the  south  of  the  river,  and  Temple  had  now  a  fine  oppor- 
tunity of  enunciating  his  views  upon  arboriculture.  An 
attempt  had  been  made  to  carry  out  the  instructions  of  my 
circular,  and  to  plant  trees  on  either  side  of  the  new  road. 
But  the  difficulties  had  been  great.     There  were  few  villages, 

1  It  is  probably  not  generally  known,  though  the  fact  is  of  interest,  that  the 
credit  of  starting  the  forest  preservation  system  in  India  is  due  to  the  great  Duke  of 
Wellington,  who,  as  Colonel  Wellesley,  then  at  Mysore,  wrote  a  memorandum 
urging  attention  being  given  to  the  subject.  The  memorandum  was  sent  to  his 
brother,  the  Marquis  Wellesley,  then  Governor-General,  and  was  acted  upon.  I 
have  not  my  copy  of  the  despatches  with  me,  but  I  remember  the  memorandum 
distinctly. 


120  IN    CAMP 

little  water,  and  scant  population  along  this  new  line. 
Temple,  as  we  rode  along,  examined  carefully  the  young 
trees  on  either  side,  and  the  whole  cavalcade — a  dozen  Euro- 
pean officers,  as  many  natives,  and  a  cavalry  escort,  with  a 
proportion  of  squealing  and  fidgeting  horses — would  have 
consequently  to  pull  up  whilst  the  great  man  passed  his 
opinion  on  some  struggling  sapling  or  withered  stem.  For  a 
short  distance  the  treelings  were  flourishing  enough,  being 
near  a  fine  village,  well  supplied  with  water.  But,  alas  !  a 
little  farther  on  the  heat  had  played  havoc,  and  the  propor- 
tion of  dead,  sick,  and  wounded  was  enormous.  The  stout 
old  colonel,  the  Deputy-Commissioner,  who,  mounted  on  a 
very  quiet  horse,  had  fallen  far  to  the  rear,  was  summoned 
and  lectured  on  the  condition  of  his  would-be  avenue.  It 
was  pleaded  by  him  and  the  tehsildar  (native  magistrate)  of 
the  beat  that  the  difficulties  of  water  made  success  almost 
impossible.  But  Temple,  who  would  accept  no  excuse, 
lectured  the  poor  old  colonel,  then  the  tehsildar,  then  all  of 
us  assembled,  on  the  ethics  of  arboriculture ;  and  declaring 
that,  with  average  administrative  vigour,  the  lives  of  innum- 
erable treelings  might  have  been  saved,  gave  us  all  a  rather 
rough  time  of  it,  halting  in  front  of  nearly  every  measly- 
looking  plant,  reproaching  the  unfortunate  officials  the  while, 
and  keeping  us  all  out  in  the  sun  and  bringing  us  late  into 
camp,  tired,  hot,  and  hungry.  The  news  of  the  great  man's 
sayings  and  doings  were,  of  course,  carried  on  ahead  to  the 
next  district,  which  we  reached  the  following  da)'.  Here  we 
were  met  by  a  Deputy-Commissioner  of  a  very  different  type, 
a  young  civilian,  a  friend  of  mine,  a  few  years  my  senior, 
whom  I  had  been  instrumental  in  getting  down  to  the 
Provinces  to  join  Temple's  new  team.  The  old  colonel  had 
been  invited  to  accompany  the  camp  to  the  next  stage  and 
make  the  acquaintance  of  his  new  neighbour.  Early  the 
next  morning,  with  the  first  few  yards  of  the  march,  com- 
menced the  interminable  tree  inspection,  and  Temple 
impressed  upon  the  new  victim,  whom  I  shall  call  Deputy- 
Commissioner  No.   2,  and  who  had  been  summoned  to  his 


THE   GREAT   MANGO   TRICK  121 

side,  the  importance  of  arboriculture,  and  again  commenced 
a  lecture  on  the  subject  in  its  many  interesting  branches.  All 
this  took  place  in  the  presence  of  a  diminutive  but  perky- 
looking  little  mango  plant,  one  of  the  new  line  by  the 
wayside.1 

"Not  large,"  said  Temple,  "but  vigorous,  well-watered, 
and  properly  cared  for ;  though  young,  just  the  sort  of  tree 
for  our  purpose,"  continued  he,  addressing  the  Deputy- 
Commissioner  whom  I  have  called  No.  2.  "  This  is  indeed 
quite  creditable,  if  sustained,"  and  he  rode  on,  satisfied  at 
seeing  a  series  of  similar  small,  perky  -  looking  bantlings 
posted  at  regular  intervals  on  either  side  of  the  road. 
"  Really  very  creditable,"  he  added,  as  he  drew  up  a  few 
minutes  later  and  admired  a  diminutive  plant  which  had 
evidently  been  quite  recently  well  soused  with  water.  "  Very 
creditable,  Mr  No.  2  ;  I  see  this  success  has  been  well  main- 
tained on  no  easy  piece  of  road,  and  I  congratulate  you." 
No.  2  modestly  protested  that  he  could  claim  no  credit,  that 
he  had  only  recently  joined  the  district,  and  until  the  day 
before  had  been  absent  sixty  miles  away,  and  had  only  just 
ridden  over  to  join  the  camp.  The  tehsildar,  he  added,  had 
been  in  charge  of  the  work  from  the  first.  The  old  be- 
whiskered  native  magistrate,  who  on  an  ambling  pony  was 
present  and  understood  some  English,  commenced  to  purr 
with  pleasure  like  a  huge  tom-cat,  and  on  receiving  some 
gracious  words  of  approval,  assured  the  great  man  that  he 
would  find  trees  of  exactly  the  same  type  the  whole  length 
of  the  march.  This  was  verified  along  another  half-mile  of 
road,  and  then  a  halt  was  again  made  before  another 
impudent-looking  mango  bantling  who  might  have  been  the 
twin-brother  of  the  last  inspected. 

"  Really  very  creditable,"  repeated  Temple.  "  Where  is 
No.  1  ?  "  and  I  had  to  canter  back  and  bring  up  the  old 
colonel,  who  had  fallen  well  to  the  rear.  Then  began  a 
jobation,  before  the  whole  of  us  there  assembled,  in  which 

1  Owing  to  the  accident  at  Rugby  already  mentioned,  Temple's  sight  was  not 
good. 


122  IN    CAMP 

the  shortcomings  of  No.  i  were  vividly  contrasted  with  the 
eminent  success  of  No.  2.  I  could  see  that  to  No.  2  these 
remarks  were  eminently  distasteful,  and  he  again  protested 
that  he  could  take  no  credit  for  the  result,  as  important  work 
had  kept  him  at  the  other  end  of  the  district  until  the  day 
before.  But  Temple  would  take  no  denial.  Wherever  there 
was  credit  or  discredit,  the  District  Officer,  he  said,  must 
come  in  for  the  largest  share.  He  did  not  expect  officers  to 
do  all  the  work,  or  water  the  trees  with  their  own  hands,  but 
results  such  as  he  had  seen  that  day,  contrasted  with  what 
he  had  seen  the  day  before,  showed  the  value  of  administra- 
tive ability.  And  as  the  treelings  all  seemed  to  be  flourishing, 
there  were  no  further  incessant  halts  that  morning,  and  the 
cavalcade  cantered  gaily  along  into  camp,  thoroughly  appre- 
ciating the  advantages  of  "  administrative  ability,"  and  feel- 
ing its  debtor  for  a  pleasant  ride  and  a  timely  bath  and 
breakfast. 

Later,  when  we  had  all  settled  down  to  the  work  of  the 
day,  Nos.  1  and  2  came  to  my  tent,  No.  2  looking  much 
perturbed.  They  then  unfolded  to  me  the  whole  truthful 
story  of  the  great  mango  trick,  which  had  been  successfully 
performed  that  morning  along  the  road  for  the  edification  of 
the  great  man  and  his  suite.  No.  2,  as  was  known,  had  been 
absent  at  the  other  extremity  of  the  district.  His  vigilant 
native  magistrate  on  the  spot  had  duly  received  the  advance 
news  of  the  great  man's  attention  to  the  treelings  along  the 
roadside,  and  had  been  quite  equal  to  the  occasion.  One  or 
two  fine  trees  in  villages  near  the  line  had  been  despoiled  of 
some  of  their  branches,  and  these  again  had  been  chopped  up 
into  diminutive  slips,  which,  stuck  into  small,  newly-watered 
patches,  had  all  the  appearance  of  carefully  nurtured  young 
trees  !  No.  2's  assistant,  sent  ahead  in  the  very  early  morn- 
ing to  see  all  was  in  order  in  camp,  had  come  upon  a  party 
of  enthusiastic  arboriculturists,  just  as  they  were  giving  the 
last  finishing  touches  to  some  well -watered  slips  near  the 
road  leading  to  the  Chief  Commissioner's  tent. 

In  these  circumstances,  No.   2  found  the  mantle  of  "  ad- 


THE    DELINQUENT'S    SENTENCE  123 

ministrative  ability,"  with  which  he  had  been  invested, 
weighing  heavily  on  his  shoulders,  and  he  was  specially 
anxious  to  be  relieved  of  it,  and  to  have  justice  done  to 
poor  old  No.  I,  who  had  fared  so  badly  in  the  comparison 
that  morning.  He  wanted  to  go  at  once  to  the  great  man 
and  explain  the  whole  affair.  But  generous  old  No.  i,  who 
had  taken  his  whipping  smiling  and  did  not  seem  much  the 
worse  for  it,  vehemently  opposed  the  confession.  I  saw  the 
weight  of  his  objection.  Temple,  with  all  his  merits,  had 
not  the  slightest  sense  of  humour,  and  being  quite  incapable 
of  seeing  any  joke  in  the  operation,  would  have  ordered  out 
the  wretched  old  tehsildar  to  immediate  execution.  The 
old  native  was  a  favourite,  had  done  good  service  during 
the  Mutiny,  and  was  a  man  of  some  resource,  as  the  pro- 
ceedings of  the  morning  had  abundantly  demonstrated. 
We  adjourned  to  the  tent  of  the  Commissioner,  a  strong 
sensible  man.  He  was  of  opinion  that  if  I,  as  Secretary, 
could  be  sworn  to  secrecy,  Temple  should  be  kept  in  the 
dark.  The  tehsildar,  who  knew  the  game  was  up,  had 
already  suffered  severely  from  fright,  and  would  be  dealt  with 
mercifully,  departmentally.  We  were  now  on  the  old  road 
again,  which  from  the  long-ago  had  been  liberally  supplied 
with  shady  avenues,  so  the  lectures  on  arboriculture  were 
likely,  for  a  time  at  least,  to  be  suspended,  and  the  subject 
kept  in  the  background.  I  gladly,  therefore,  undertook  to 
guard  the  story  as  a  State  secret,  and  save  the  culprit  from 
all  the  terrors  of  gubernatorial  displeasure. 

But  a  well-merited  penalty  imposed  upon  that  old  tehsildar 
for  his  unrighteousness  was  that  those  mango-trick  treelings 
of  the  morning  were  to  be  transformed  into  a  real,  living, 
abiding  avenue,  to  afford  grateful  shade  to  the  travellers 
of  the  future,  and  to  remain  as  a  lasting  monument  to  the 
wisdom  of  my  celebrated  Arboricultural  Book  Circular. 
And  I  learnt  later  that  the  cheery  old  sinner  undertook 
and  carried  out  his  task  right  earnestly  and  loyally,  and 
selecting  his  young  trees  with  care,  and  seeing  that  no 
mango  trick  was  again  played  on  that  portion  of  the  road, 


124  IN    CAMP 

he  tended  the  saplings  once  planted  with  the  devotion  of  the 
fondest  parent.  "  For,"  said  that  well-whiskered  old  tiger 
cat,  "  this  idea,  at  least,  of  the  Sirkar's,  this  Seerkularjee,  has 
some  sense  in  it,  and  the  order  for  the  giving  of  shade  to 
travellers  is  so  wise  it  might  have  come  from  our  own  old 
Raj  even."  So  during  the  remaining  years  of  his  service 
that  avenue  had  his  unremitting  attention.  And  even  when 
he  retired  on  pension  to  his  native  village,  his  home  not 
being  distant  from  the  cross-road,  the  old  fellow  still  found 
in  that  avenue  an  interest  and  a  delight,  visiting  it  periodic- 
ally, and  from  time  to  time  replacing  those  trees  that  did 
not  prosper  by  sturdier  specimens,  and  seeing  that  the  more 
vigorous  ones  were  pruned  or  thinned  out.  And  so  it  came 
to  pass  that,  thanks  muchly  to  that  great  mango  trick  of 
the  Chief  Commissioner's  visit,  there  was  planted  and  reared 
along  that  road  an  avenue  that  to-day,  nearly  fifty  years  after 
the  event,  is  known  as  one  of  the  most  prosperous  in  that  part 
of  the  Provinces,  and  is  the  admiration  of  all  those  who 
hoot  past  in  motor-cars  or  creak  along  in  the  still  surviving 
bullock-cart  of  the  valley. 

But  that  fine  avenue  is  not  known  by  the  name  of  the 
author  of  the  Book  Circular,  or  of  the  mango-trick  conjuror, 
but  is  the  Alfred  Lyall  Avenue,  after  the  brilliant  young 
civilian,  the  author  of  '  The  Old  Pindaree,'  who  exacted 
the  penalty  from  the  tehsildar,  and  who  for  a  short  period 
was  Deputy-Commissioner  of  Hoshungabad,  the  only  district 
charge  held  by  him  during  his  service,  before  he  was  snapped 
up  to  fill,  one  after  another,  nearly  all  the  highest  posts  in 
the  gift  of  the  Government  of  India  and  the  Secretary  of 
State.  Temple  himself  remained  for  upwards  of  thirty  years 
in  blissful  ignorance  of  the  clever  trick  so  successfully  played 
upon  him  that  cold-weather  morning  in  the  Nerbudda  valley. 
And  it  was  not  until  we  had  all  three  retired  from  the  Indian 
service — Temple,  No.  2,1  and  myself — that  the  truth  was 
incontinently  revealed  to  him  under  circumstances  of  very 
strong  temptation  and  interest. 

1  The  Rt.  Hon.  Sir  Alfred  Lyall,  P.C.,  K.C.B.,  G.C.I.E. 


THE    TRICK    EXPOSED  125 

After  filling  every  high  office  to  which  an  Indian  civilian 
can  aspire,  save  that  of  Viceroy,  Temple  had  entered  Parlia- 
ment as  member  for  a  division  of  his  own  county.  No.  2, 
following  pretty  closely  in  the  footsteps  of  his  former  chief, 
had  received  the  Knighthood  of  the  Bath,  an  honour  hardly 
ever  conferred  on  an  Indian  officer,  had  ended  his  Indian  career 
as  Governor  of  the  North-Western  Provinces,  had  returned 
home  and  entered  the  Council  of  India,  which  he  was  to 
leave  soon  afterwards  on  being  sworn  of  the  Privy  Council.1 

Temple  was  entertaining  us,  two  of  his  former  lieutenants, 
one  afternoon  at  tea  at  the  House,  and  two  other  legislators 
joined  the  table.  One  of  these  having  recently  been  at 
Nancy,  commenced  to  hold  forth  on  the  advantages  of  the 
French  forest  system,  and  advocated  similar  measures  in 
the  United  Kingdom.  This  gave  Temple  an  opening  for 
a  dissertation  on  what  he  had  done  in  India  for  arbori- 
culture,— the  planting  of  avenues  along  the  roads  and  the 
like.  And  he  waited  for  us  to  affirm  in  chorus  the  benefits 
of  the  measures  undertaken.  I  caught  the  twinkle  in  No.  2's 
eye,  and  I  think  I  should  have  been  more  than  human  if  I 
could  have  resisted  the  temptation  of  then  and  there  relating 
the  history  of  the  great  mango  trick  as  performed  in  the 
long  ago,  and  as  above  described.  Temple,  who,  as  I  have 
said,  had  no  sense  of  humour,  was  furious,  not  with  No.  2, 
who  was  at  least  vicariously  responsible  for  the  episode, 
but  with  me,  because  I  had  not  allowed  myself  to  forget 
the  incident.  And  he  would  have  rended  me,  had  not  No.  2 
come  gallantly  to  my  rescue  and,  affirming  the  correct- 
ness   of    my    statement,    explained    how,    ever    after    that 

1  Temple  also  attained  to  the  exceptional  honour,  for  an  Indian  civilian  at  least, 
of  being  sworn  of  the  Privy  Council.  For  it  may  be  of  interest  to  notice  that, 
during  the  whole  history  of  the  service,  the  number  of  its  members  who  for  their 
successes  in  India  have  received  this  honour  may  be  counted  on  one  hand,  these 
being  Warren  Hastings,  Mountstuart  Elphinstone,  Lord  Lawrence,  Temple,  and 
Sir  Alfred  Lyall.  Sir  Bartle  Frere,  Sir  Mortimer  Durand,  and  Lord  MacDonnell 
have  indeed  also  reached  this  dignity,  but  the  reward  in  these  instances  has  been  for 
successful  services  rendered  outside  India.  Even  Lords  Teignmouth  and  Metcalfe, 
each  of  whom  for  a  time  filled  the  office  of  Governor-General,  do  not  appear  to  have 
been  included  in  the  Privy  Council.  And  in  Temple's  case  also  it  may  be  held  that 
the  reward  was  rather  for  his  Parliamentary  than  his  Indian  services. 


126  IN    CAMP 

morning,  he  had  come  to  regard  with  suspicion  all  perky- 
looking  little  trees  planted  along  the  roadside,  and  so  much 
so  that  on  his  gubernatorial  progresses  he  had  from  time 
to  time  thought  it  desirable  to  have  an  occasional  suspicious- 
looking  little  plant  taken  by  the  neck  and  hauled  out  of 
the  ground  for  a  proper  inspection  of  its  roots. 

And  this  story  has  been  included  in  my  "Memories" 
chiefly  for  the  edification  of  present  and  future  administra- 
tors. For  I  am  credibly  informed  that  the  great  mango 
trick,  even  as  I  have  herein  related  it,  is  still  occasionally 
performed  in  India  during  the  visits  of  the  mighty.  And 
to  these  I  would  commend  the  precaution  adopted  by  No.  2, 
and  the  occasional  examination  of  the  roots  of  any  very 
perky-looking  treeling  planted  along  the  line  of  the  morning's 
march. 

Later  we  passed  through  a  district  the  speciality  of  which 
was  irrigation  and  cultivation  by  wells,  and  it  was  during 
this  progress  that  the  misuse  that  can  be  made  of  a  Govern- 
ment order,  unless  its  effect  is  carefully  watched,  came  under 
notice, 

It  has  already  been  said  that  Temple,  when  on  tour,  very 
wisely  made  a  point  of  seeing  as  much  of  the  people  as 
possible,  of  speaking  to  villagers  whom  he  came  across  by 
chance,  and  of  getting  the  people  together  at  our  halting- 
places  and  talking  over  and  explaining  the  recent  orders 
of  the  Government.  This  duty  was  also  strongly  impressed 
on  all  district  officers.  How  necessary  these  precautions 
were  will  be  understood  from  the  following  story,  which  is 
only  one  of  many  of  the  ignorance  and  timidity  of  the  native 
population  in  the  districts,  and  the  clever  manner  in  which 
the  astute  native  official  can  turn  this  to  his  own  advantage. 
The  orders  of  Government  drawing  attention  to  certain 
points  and  ordering  certain  procedure  were  issued  from 
time  to  time  by  us  secretaries  in  circulars,  and  these  circulars 
would  be  translated  and  communicated  by  the  European 
officer  to  the  subordinate  Native  magistrates  and  officers 
of  police,  and  with  an  ignorant  and  timid  people  there  was 
ever  great  danger  of  these  orders  being  misapplied  or  mis- 


AN    ASTUTE    POLICEMAN  I27 

understood.  One  year  the  annual  reports  showed  an  increase 
in  the  returns  of  deaths  from  persons  falling  down  wells,  and, 
in  my  wisdom,  I  marked  this,  and  suggested  attention  being 
called  to  the  fact,  and  precautions  being  taken  in  the  shape 
of  old  disused  wells  being  filled  in  and  the  like.  This  was 
approved  by  Temple,  and  the  usual  circular  issued.  Some 
months  afterwards,  as  we  were  on  tour  in  a  country  with 
water  near  the  surface,  and  liberally  irrigated  with  Persian 
wheels,  we  discovered  that  this  innocent  circular  had  been 
the  means  of  a  smart  police  inspector  feathering  his  nest, 
with  much  satisfaction  to  himself  and  commensurate  dis- 
comfort to  the  population. 

With  a  translation  of  the  circular  in  his  hand,  the 
inspector  had  gone  into  the  centre  of  the  irrigated  tract, 
and  had  called  together  the  chief  cultivators  to  explain 
the  order  regarding  wells  just  received  from  Government. 
He  read  out  the  part  about  closing  disused  wells,  leaving 
out  the  word  "disused."  "Close  our  wells!"  cried  the 
people  with  one  voice.  "  Why,  our  lives  and  those  of  our 
families  depend  on  the  well-water."  "  Considering  that  my 
mother  is  from  these  parts,  and  that  I  have  served  here 
for  the  last  seven  years,  I  think  I  know  that  fact,"  replied 
the  inspector.  "  But  the  point  is,  here  are  these  idiotic 
orders  of  this  foreign  Government,  which  dwells  a  hundred 
miles  and  more  away  from  here,  and  has  no  idea  of  our 
wants.  Still,  these  orders  I've  got  to  obey,  or  disobey  at 
my  peril.  Some  of  you  have  an  idea  of  what  these  white 
men  are,  and  Govind  Dass,  who  is  here,  and  went  into  the 
station  last  rains  in  the  cow  case,  has  told  you  how  he 
saw  the  '  Barra  Sahib '  [Magistrate]  open  in  court  a  bottle 
of  water  that  made  a  noise  like  a  matchlock,  and  that  the 
white  men  drank  of  this  water,  which  makes  of  these  sahibs 
madmen,  all  more  or  less."  "  But,  great  one,"  answer  the 
timid  cultivators,  "  you,  who  are  as  our  father  and  our 
mother,  will  save  us  from  these  madmen's  ruin ;  you  surely 
will  never  insist  on  carrying  out  this  wicked,  ruinous  order  ?  " 
"And  if  I  don't,"  asks  the  inspector,  "what  suppose  you 
will  be  the  lot  of  this  miserable  one  ?     I  am  an  inspector 


128  IN    CAMP 

of  police  of  long  and  honourable  service,  within  a  year  and 
a  half  of  my  pension,  and  with  a  family  of  seven  children 
for  whom  to  provide.  Don't  you  all  know  that  the  '  Captain 
Sahib '  [the  Superintendent  of  Police]  will  be  round  in  six 
weeks'  time,  and  will  carefully  inquire  as  to  the  carrying 
out  of  these  orders  ?  And  if  I  fail,  where  will  be  my 
pension  and  my  unfortunate  family?  They  may  be  mad, 
these  English,  but  they  are  powerful,  curse  them !  and,  as 
I  have  said,  we  have  to  obey  them — at  least  /  have.  There 
is,  so  far  as  I  can  see,  only  one  way  out  of  it.  For  the 
pension  I  do  not  care  so  much,  but  I  have  always  hoped 
to  set  my  eldest  son  up  in  a  cloth-business  in  the  sudder 
[headquarters]  station,  the  profits  of  which  would  support 
us  all.  For  this  the  sum  of  two  thousand  rupees  is  still 
wanting.  With  this  in  hand  I  could  afford  to  smile  at  the 
sahibs  and  their  idiotic  orders.  Now  there  are  at  least 
five  hundred  wells  in  this  circle :  this  means  but  four  rupees 
a  well.  Do  you  see,  then  ?  Keep  your  wells  going,  and 
let  the  sahibs  do  their  worst."  After  much  confabulation 
it  was  determined  by  the  headmen  of  the  caste  that 
the  required  sum  should  be  levied  and  the  irrigation 
saved.  It  was  in  reality  more  natural  than  it  may  at 
first  appear  that  these  timid  villagers  should  give  in  at 
once  to  the  wily  inspector.  For,  as  the  French  say,  "  Le 
diable  paye  argent  comptant,"  and  the  return  made  by  the 
inspector  would  be  prompt.  As  for  waiting  to  be  righted 
by  the  magistrate,  that  might  be  a  long  business.  That 
astute  inspector  did  not,  however,  retire  immediately  he 
got  the  money :  greed  induced  him  to  remain  on  and  earn 
yet  a  few  more  illicit  rupees.  But  the  facts  as  above  related 
having  leaked  out,  unluckily  for  him,  and  being  estab- 
lished in  the  criminal  court,  that  inspector  passed  several 
years  in  the  jail  of  the  sudder  station  before  he  could  com- 
mence to  enjoy  the  profits  of  the  coveted  cloth -shop  in 
that  same  station  of  the  district  in  which  the  wells  were 
not  closed  down. 

"  The  man  with  a  belt " — the  Government  chuprassy  with 


A    NEW   TAX  129 

a  belt,  to  which  is  attached  an  engraved  brass  -  plate  or 
chuprass  designating  his  office — will  probably  ever  remain  a 
terror  to  most  villagers.  I  remember  one  morning  in  the 
Wurdah  district  we  were  a  merry  party  out  pig-sticking. 
A  villager  who  had  helped  us,  and  seemed  to  have  gained 
some  confidence  by  chatting  with  us,  complained  of  a  new 
tikkus  (tax)  which  he  said  was  being  levied,  and  which  his 
village  had  had  to  pay  up  that  very  morning,  just  before 
our  unexpected  arrival.  The  chuprassy,  the  man  told  us, 
was  all  right  and  no  mistake  about  it :  he  had  a  chuprass 
(or  badge),  a  red  turban,  and  the  necessary  Government 
order,  sealed  with  a  large  seal.  We  were  all  sceptical  still. 
"Oh,"  replied  our  informant,  "he  can  hardly  have  got 
much  farther  than  the  next  village."  So  leaving  the  pig 
for  the  moment,  the  whole  party  prepared  for  a  man-hunt. 
As  we  rode  up  to  this  village,  one  of  us  shouted,  "  Stole 
away !  "  and  there,  sure  enough,  was  a  red-turbaned  figure 
sneaking  off  to  the  eastward.  He  had  a  long  start  of  us, 
and  the  country  he  led  us  across  was  hideous  with  dry 
nullahs  or  watercourses.  Of  course  we  eventually  got  our 
man.  He  was  faultlessly  costumed,  being  a  dismissed  ser- 
vant who  knew  well  the  tricks  of  the  trade.  The  parwannah 
or  Government  order  was  a  real  work  of  art.  It  had  been 
written  in  Hindustani,  a  language  no  villager  could  under- 
stand, save  that  about  tikkus  there  could  be  no  mistake. 
But  the  triumph  was  in  the  seal.  In  India  wax  seals  are 
not  affixed  to  ordinary  official  documents,  but  an  impression 
is  made  by  means  of  a  brass  seal  and  an  inked  pad,  the 
most  important  seals  bearing  the  royal  arms.  And  here, 
sure  enough,  were  both  lion  and  unicorn  and  the  arms  of 
the  United  Kingdom !  This  astute  person  had  carefully 
floated  off  the  label  from  a  broken  sauce -bottle,  found  at 
some  deserted  camp,  and  the  royal  arms  being  all  there, 
this  label  made  a  most  efficient  official  seal  for  the  purpose 
of  extorting  a  contribution  from  the  timid  villagers. 

In  India  it  is  necessary,  even  more  specially  than  else- 
where, not  only  to  give  orders  and  see  that  they  are  carried 

1 


130  IN    CAMP 

out,  but  also  to  watch  their  after-effect.  Otherwise  come 
surprises  like  unto  that  of  the  well  case  above  cited.  It 
was  considered  desirable  at  one  time  to  increase  the  reward 
for  each  dead  tiger  brought  in,  and  although  some  European 
sportsmen  profited,  the  number  of  tigers  exterminated  by 
the  native  shikaris  (or  hunters)  did  not  increase;  on  the 
contrary,  these  fell  off.  The  result  was  explained  the  next 
season  when  I  was  in  Chandah.  A  cunning  old  Gondh 
shikari  joined  us,  and  was  to  be  well  paid  if  he  helped 
to  show  sport.  A  native  chief  who  was  with  me  at  the 
time,  and  knew  the  old  man  well,  took  his  matchlock  from 
him,  and  examining  the  notches  on  the  stock,  said,  "  Holloa, 
Gunnoo,  only  two  tigers  last  year ;  I  thought  always  four  ?  " 
"Oh,"  said  the  knowing  old  fellow,  "yes,  with  the  old 
reward  four  were  necessary  to  fill  the  stomachs  of  my 
family  and  myself,  but  with  the  present  big  price  I  can 
do  it  on  two  tigers ;  and  why  should  I  risk  my  life  un- 
necessarily ? "  And  so  also  with  an  enthusiastic  engineer 
who  hoped  to  get  some  urgent  work  through  sharp,  and 
in  his  wisdom  bethought  himself  of  doubling  the  work- 
men's wages.  The  result  was  that  they  worked  for  one  day 
and  then  all  took  holiday  the  next.  For,  as  they  elegantly 
expressed  it,  when  they  had  enough  in  hand  to  fill  their 
bellies  for  two  days,  why  should  they  work  unnecessarily 
the  second  day  ? 

I  am  writing  of  the  India  of  the  long  ago,  and  doubtless  the 
change  since  my  time  has  been  great.  The  poor  imposed- 
upon  well-men  of  whom  I  have  spoken  had  probably  hardly 
ever  been  farther  than  to  the  neighbouring  market -town, 
and  the  station  with  its  English  church  and  big  houses 
in  which  the  sahibs  lived  was  quite  unknown  to  them. 
Nowadays  do  not  their  sons  and  grandsons  take  return 
third-class  tickets  and  run  into  the  station  and  back  by 
railway  whenever  so  inclined  ?  And  the  police  inspector 
of  the  present  day  must  look  to  his  morals,  otherwise  the 
former  timid  villagers  may  show  him  up  in  the  local  native 
newspaper.      The    magistrate    possibly    may    overlook    the 


INDIAN    "PROGRESS  131 

paragraph ;  but  are  there  not  important  persons  sent  up 
specially  for  the  purpose  to  the  Himalayas  each  hot  season, 
Under-Secretaries  to  Government,  who  mark  such  items 
with  red  pencils  for  the  perusal  of  the  "  Lord  Sahib "  at 
Naini-Tal,  and  even  for  that  of  the  greatest  of  all  "Lord 
Sahibs,"  he  at  Simlah  ?  And  in  due  course  that  para- 
graph and  that  village  will  have  an  unusual  interest  for 
the  overworked  officials  on  the  spot,  who  will  have  to 
answer  inquiries  from  headquarters  by  post  and  telegraph. 
In  old  days  the  ideas  and  the  wants  of  the  villagers  were 
few.  Our  education  and  civilisation  are  daily  increasing 
those  wants  and  enlarging  those  ideas,  and  stimulating  the 
ambition  even  of  those  in  the  remote  districts.  When  a 
man  seldom  went  beyond  his  native  village  his  requirements 
were  few,  and  he  thought  little  of  accumulating  for  future 
ambitious  projects.  Old  Gunnoo's  grandson  has  probably 
read  on  the  illuminated  poster,  at  the  railway  station,  of  the 
forthcoming  Paris  Exhibition,  and  being  in  the  grain  trade 
(the  family  do  not  depend  any  longer  on  tiger  carcases), 
will  probably  think  of  sanding  and  adulterating  his  grain 
more  thoroughly  than  usual,  and  getting  together  enough 
for  a  flutter  on  the  Champs  Elysees,  of  which  he  knows 
something  already  from  the  highly  coloured  announcement 
above  mentioned.  Whether  the  family  are  really  happier 
under  these  new  conditions  is  quite  another  question.  Still, 
whether  the  advance  makes  them  happy  or  not,  it  all  helps 
to  spell  "  Progress  "  in  the  reports  stowed  away  in  the 
Indian  Government  offices,  and  presented  annually  to  the 
High  Court  of  Parliament  under  our  Most  Gracious  Sovereign 
Lord  King  Edward  at  this  time  assembled. 

A  few  weeks  after  we  had  left  our  camp  on  the  Nerbudda, 
Deputy-Commissioner  No.  2 — Mr  Alfred  Lyall,  as  he  then 
was  —  sent  me  some  verses  he  had  written,  dated  "On 
the  Nerbudda."  This  was  the  text  of  the  now  well-known 
"  Old  Pindaree,"  which  many  in  India,  soldier  and  civilian 
alike,  know  by  heart ;  which  hardly  any  educated  person  in 
that  country  has  not  heard  ;    which  has  been  quoted  more 


I32  IN    CAMP 

than  once  in  Parliament,  and  dozens  of  times  elsewhere ; 
and  which  will  ever  remain  one  of  the  most  picturesque 
and  faithfully  descriptive  pieces  in  Anglo-Indian  literature. 
Lyall  was  very  modest  regarding  these  verses  at  the  time. 
But  Temple  and  others  appreciated  at  once  their  immense 
merit,  and  realised  the  great  literary  power  of  the  writer, 
which  was  later  to  be  recognised  far  outside  India.  Just 
then  we  were  trying  to  keep  afloat  a  newspaper  at  Nagpore, 
and  save  it  from  the  fate  of  sinking  beneath  contempt  with 
the  rubbish  with  which  local  organs  were  often  weighted, 
and,  with  Lyall's  consent,  I  published  "The  Old  Pindaree  " 
in  'The  Central  India  Times.'  I  kept,  however,  the  original 
paper,  recognising  its  value,  and  sent  a  copy  only  to  the 
press.  This  enables  me  to  republish  now,  with  Sir  A. 
Lyall's  permission,  a  copy  of  the  original,  which  I  know 
will  be  received  with  pleasure  by  many  readers  besides  the 
existing  admirers  of  this  stirring  poem.  The  original  score 
I  hope  to  keep  as  long  as  I  live. 

THE    OLD    PINDAREE. 

On  the  Nerbudda,  1862. 


Allah  is  great,  my  children,  and  kind  to  a  slave  like  me — 
The  great  man's  tent  is  gone  from  under  the  peepul-tree  : 
With  his  horde  of  hungry  retainers,  and  oil-fed  sons  of  the  quill, 
I  paid  them  the  bribes  they  wanted,  and  Satan  may  settle  my  bill ! 


It's  not  that  I  care  for  the  money,  or  expect  a  dog  to  be  clean — 
If  I  were  lord  of  the  ryots,  they'd  starve  ere  I  grew  lean — 
But  I'd  sooner  be  robbed  by  a  tall  man  who  showed  me  a  yard  of  steel, 
Than  be  fleeced  by  a  sneaking  Babu,  with  a  knave  in  a  belt  at  his  heel. 


There  goes  my  lord  the  Feringhee,  who  talks  so  civil  and  bland, 
Till  he  raves  like  a  soul  in  Jehannum  if  I  don't  quite  understand. 
He  begins  by  calling  me  Sahib,  and  ends  by  calling  me  Fool ; 
He  has  taken  my  old  sword  from  me,  and  tells  me  to  set  up  a  school ! 


THE   OLD    PINDAREE  133 


"  Set  up  a  school  in  the  village !     And  my  wishes  are,"  says  he, 
"That  you  make  the  boys  learn  reg'lar,  or  you'll  get  a  lesson  from  me." 
Well,  Ramlal  the  Oilman  spites  me,  and  pounded  my  cow  last  rains  ; 
He's  got  three  greasy  young  urchins — I'll  see  that  they  take  pains. 


Then  comes  the  Settlement  Hakim,  to  teach  us  to  plough  and  to  weed 

(I  sowed  the  cotton  he  gave  me,  but  first  I  boiled  the  seed). 

He  likes  us  humble  farmers,  and  speaks  so  gracious  and  wise 

As  he  asks  of  our  manners  and  customs — I  tell  him  a  parcel  of  lies. 


"Look,"  says  the  school  Feringhee,  "what  a  silly  old  man  you  be. 
You  can't  read,  write,  nor  cypher — and  your  grandsons  do  all  three ; 
They'll  total  the  shopman's  figures,  and  reckon  the  tenant's  corn, 
And  read  good  books  about  London,  and  the  world  afore  you  were  born." 


Well,  I  may  be  old  and  foolish,  for  I've  seventy  years  well  told, 

And  the  English  have  ruled  me  forty,  so  my  heart  and  my  hand's  got 

cold. 
Good  boys  they  are,  my  grandsons,  I  know,  but  they'll  never  be  men 
Such  as  I  was  at  twenty-five,  when  the  sword  was  king  of  the  pen  ; 


When  I  rode  a  Dekhani  charger,  with  a  saddle-cloth  gold-laced ; 
And  a  Persian  sword,  and  a  twelve-foot  spear,  and  a  pistol  at  my  waist. 
My  son  he  keeps  a  pony,  and  I  grin  to  see  him  astride, 
Jogging  away  to  the  market,  and  swaying  from  side  to  side. 


My  father  was  an  Afghan,  and  came  from  Kandahar — 

He  rode  with  Nawab  Ameer  Khan  in  the  great  Mahratta  war. 

From  the  Dekhan  to  the  Himalays,  five  hundred  of  one  clan, 

They  asked  no  leave  of  prince  or  chief  as  they  swept  thro'  Hindustan. 


My  mother  was  a  Brahminee,  but  she  clave  to  my  father  well. 
She  was  saved  from  the  sack  of  Juleysur,  when  a  thousand  Hindus  fell. 
Her  kinsmen  died  in  the  sally,  so  she  followed  where  he  went, 
And  lived,  like  a  bold  Pathani,  in  the  shade  of  a  rider's  tent. 


134  IN  camp 


It's  many  a  year  gone  by  now,  and  yet  I  often  dream 
Of  a  long  dark  march  to  the  Jumna,  of  splashing  across  the  stream, 
Of  the  waning  moon  on  the  water,  and  the  spears  in  the  dim  starlight, 
As  I  rode  in  front  of  my  mother,  and  wondered  at  all  the  sight. 


Then  a  streak  of  the  pearly  dawn,  the  flash  of  a  sentinel's  gun, 
The  gallop  and  glint  of  horsemen  who  wheeled  in  the  level  sun, 
The  shots  in  the  clear  still  morning,  the  white  smoke's  eddying  wreath, 
Is  this  the  same  land  that  I  live  in,  the  dull  dank  air  that  I  breathe  ? 

But  the  British  chased  Ameer  Khan,  and  the  roving  times  must  cease; 
My  father  got  this  village,  and  he  sowed  his  crops  in  peace  ; 
And  I,  so  young  and  hot  of  blood,  I  had  no  land  or  wife, 
So  I  took  to  the  hills  of  Malwa  and  the  free  Pindaree  life. 


14. 

Praise  to  the  name  Almighty,  there  is  no  God  but  One. 

Mahomed  is  His  prophet,  and  His  will  shall  ever  be  done. 

Ye  shall  take  no  care  for  your  money,  nor  your  faith  for  a  ransom  sell; 

Ye  shall  make  no  terms  with  the  infidel,  but  smite  his  soul  to  hell. 

Tell  me,  ye  men  of  Islam,  who  are  rotting  in  shameful  ease, 
Who  wrangle  before  the  Feringhee  for  a  poor  man's  last  rupees, 
Are  ye  better  than  were  your  fathers,  who  plundered  with  old  Cheetoo, 
Squeezing  the  greedy  traders  as  the  traders  now  squeeze  you  ? 

16. 

Yes,  and  here's  one  of  them  coming.     My  father  gave  him  a  bill ; 
I  have  paid  the  man  twice  over,  and  here  I'm  paying  him  still. 
He  shows  me  a  long  stamp-paper,  and  must  have  my  land,  must  he  ? 
If  I  were  twenty  years  younger  he'd  get  six  feet  by  three. 

17- 

And  if  I  were  forty  years  younger,  with  my  life  before  me  to  choose, 
I  wouldn't  be  lectured  by  Kafirs  or  bullied  by  fat  Hindoos, 
But  I'd  go  to  some  far-off  country  where  Musulmans  still  are  men, 
Or  take  to  the  jungle  like  Cheetoo,  and  die  in  the  tiger's  den  ! 


THE    NAGPORE    EXHIBITION  135 

After  a  delightful  march  we  returned  for  a  time  to  head- 
quarters at  Nagpore,  where  attention  was  demanded  to  a  great 
scheme  Temple  had  on  hand.  This  was  nothing  less  than  an 
Exhibition  at  Nagpore  to  introduce  the  backward  province  to 
her  more  advanced  neighbours,  and  to  stimulate  local  manu- 
factures by  a  display  by  their  side  of  the  products  of  their 
rivals.  Situated  as  Nagpore  was  far  from  what  was  then 
regarded  as  civilisation,  the  undertaking  seemed  somewhat 
audacious.  But,  thanks  to  the  loyalty  of  a  legion  of  helpers, 
the  scheme  worked  out  well  enough,  and  the  Nagpore 
Exhibition  proved  a  memorable  success.  After  the  lapse  of 
nearly  half  a  century,  the  experiment  has  been  repeated  at 
Nagpore  this  last  year,  but  at  a  Nagpore  now  very  different 
to  that  of  our  day, — a  Nagpore  with  the  railway  and  much 
civilisation,  progress,  and  reform.  But  the  old  time,  even 
without  ice,  was  not  such  a  bad  time  after  all,  and  I  was 
gratified  to  see  that  the  advanced  officials  of  the  present  day 
generously  enough  acknowledged  that,  considering  our  re- 
sources, we  did  not  do  so  badly  in  those  very  inferior  days 
of  the  long  ago. 

The  remarkable  rapidity  and  ever-sustained  continuity  of 
Temple's  successful  progress  generated  a  jealousy  the  force 
of  which  was  formidable,  and  which  gave  off,  in  the  shape 
of  stories  concerning  him,  sparklets  or  shocks  according  to 
whether  these  were  good-natured  and  amusing  or  designedly 
malicious  and  harmful.  One  of  the  most  dangerous  of  the 
latter  class  was  to  the  effect  that  Temple,  in  his  extraordinary 
vanity,  had  caused  to  be  struck  of  himself  a  medal,  to  com- 
memorate his  success  in  the  Central  Provinces,  and  that  on 
that  medal  he  had  had  himself  portrayed  crowned  with  the 
laurel-wreath  of  a  victorious  Roman  emperor  !  As  material 
evidence  existed  appearing  to  support  this  story,  it  was  very 
generally  accepted,  and  the  efforts  of  myself  and  others  to 
contradict  it  met  with  small  success.  Such  a  medal  was  un- 
doubtedly struck,  but  that  Temple  was  entirely  innocent  of 
all  knowledge  of  the  matter  the  following  statements  of  facts 
will  sufficiently  show. 


I36  NAGPORE 

In  the  spring  of  1864  Temple,  being  then  Chief  Com- 
missioner of  the  Central  Provinces,  went  home  on  leave, 
Mr  J.  Scarlett  Campbell  succeeding  him  temporarily  in  the 
post.  Before  leaving  for  England  Temple  had  set  agoing  all 
the  arrangements  for  the  Exhibition  that  was  to  be  held  at 
Nagpore  at  the  close  of  the  year.  A  large  committee  of 
management  was  appointed,  of  which  the  Chief  Commis- 
sioner was  president,  and  there  were  several  sub-committees, 
of  the  chief  of  which  I  was  chairman.  Soon  after  Temple's 
departure  the  question  of  a  prize  medal  for  successful 
exhibitors  came  up  before  the  Grand  Committee.  Mr 
Scarlett  Campbell  had  been  in  communication  with  the 
mint -master  in  Calcutta,  and  Temple's  features  being 
peculiar,  the  engraver  had  succeeded  in  producing  a  remark- 
able likeness  of  his  subject.  Mr  Campbell  showed  the  medal 
to  the  committee,  and  recommended  its  adoption  for  the 
exhibition  prizes.  The  members  were  one  and  all  delighted 
with  the  likeness,  and  the  advocacy  of  the  president  naturally 
had  great  weight.  But  I,  fortunately,  realised  the  danger  to 
Temple  in  the  proposal,  and  stated  my  objections  as  chair- 
man of  the  committee  for  general  arrangements,  to  whose 
department  the  question  belonged.  I  urged  that  only 
crowned  heads  and  chiefs  of  States  were  commemorated  on 
medals,  and  that  if  the  medal  was  struck  Temple  would 
certainly  be  debited  with  the  sin  of  it.  Campbell  had  taken 
much  trouble  in  the  matter,  and  was  disappointed  at  my 
opposition,  especially  when  I  succeeded  in  bringing  several  of 
the  committee  over  to  my  side.  He  sarcastically  inquired 
whether  I  could  suggest  anything  better,  and  adjourned  the 
discussion  to  the  next  day.  In  the  meantime  I  prepared  one 
or  two  designs,  which  went  the  round  of  the  racquet-court 
and  the  club  in  the  evening.  The  first,  I  remember,  had  on 
one  side  a  copy  of  the  excellent  likeness  of  Temple  on  the 
medal.  On  the  reverse  was  a  hand  with  thumb  extended, 
resembling,  save  in  the  extension,  the  bloody  hand  borne  by 
a  baronet  in  a  canton  on  his  arms.  The  designs  were  on  a 
card,  and  to  either  side  of  the  card  was  attached  a  thread,  by 


THE   TEMPLE    MEDAL  137 

which  the  card  could  be  twiddled  round,  after  the  manner  of 
the  mouse  and  the  cage  of  one's  childhood.  The  twiddling 
process  brought  the  thumb  up  to  Temple's  nose,  and  was 
designed  to  represent  his  views  on  the  subject.  Yet  another 
design  was  Temple  as  a  dragon,  gobbling  up  local  funds,  for 
which  he  had  an  insatiable  appetite ;  and  a  third  design  ex- 
hibited Temple  as  Hercules  helping  a  cotton-cart  out  of  the 
mud,  —  a  compliment  to  his  improvement  of  the  roads  of 
the  Provinces.  Campbell,  who  was  my  warm  and  valued 
personal  friend,  took  all  the  chaff  in  good  part.  At  the  next 
meeting  of  the  committee  wise  counsels  prevailed,  and  a 
colourless  cornucopia-like  design  was  adopted  for  the  prize 
medal.  Later  it  appeared  that  some  expense  had  been 
incurred  in  engraving  Temple's  portrait,  and  Campbell 
suggested  that,  as  the  likeness  was  excellent,  the  members 
of  the  committee  and  others  in  the  Province  might  like  to 
purchase  copies.  This  was  done,  and  I  have  to  this  day  this 
excellent  portrait  of  my  good  old  chief  and  kinsman.  But 
the  mint-master  did  what  I  always  held  to  be  utterly  un- 
justifiable. To  some  of  these  medals  he  superadded  a  laurel- 
wreath  encircling  Temple's  brow.  Copies  of  these  medals 
were  given  away,  and  soon  were  distributed  over  India,  and 
presented  themselves  as  incontestable  proof  of  the  story  that 
Temple  had  had  such  a  medal  struck  in  his  own  glorification, 
on  which  he  appeared  laurel-crowned  like  a  victorious  Roman 
emperor !  Later  Temple  had  an  excellent  opportunity  of 
making  matters  uncomfortable  for  the  gentleman  who  had 
played  him  this  trick,  and  I  advocated  a  little  ungentle 
discipline.  But  Temple  would  not  hear  of  it,  so  generous 
was  he,  and  so  little  given  to  malice.  He  always  recognised 
that  I  had  done  him  a  good  service  in  opposing  the  medal 
in  committee,  and  was  grateful  for  it.  Over  and  over  again 
was  Temple  attacked  in  the  press  on  account  of  this  medal, 
and  although  the  story  was  contradicted  by  myself  and 
others,  few,  in  face  of  the  medal  itself,  were  disposed  to 
accept  our  denial.     So  much  for  history ! 

Whilst  with  Temple  as  Secretary  I  accompanied  him  four 


I38  BOMBAY 

times  from  Central  Nagpore  to  the  sea -coast, — no  mean 
journey,  be  it  east  or  west,  in  those  days  before  the  rail- 
way. Once  we  marched  through  the  wild  country  beyond 
Sumbhulpore  to  Cuttack,  and  Pooree  on  the  east  coast,  and 
my  dear  Arab,  "  Selim,"  quite  enjoyed  there  a  sea-bath  which 
he  had  richly  earned.  Then  in  the  rains  we  made  a  perilous 
journey  down  the  Godavery  river,  through  Seroncha,  to 
Rajumundry  and  the  seaport  of  Coconada,  as  Temple  had  to 
report  on  the  then  vexed  Godavery  scheme,  to  which  he  was 
to  give  the  quietus.  On  that  tour  we  ran  every  possible  risk 
of  drowning,  fever,  and  all  other  available  Indian  calami- 
ties, and,  to  the  amazement  of  every  one,  we  both  escaped 
scot-free.  I  should  not,  however,  care  to  repeat  that  risky 
experiment. 

Our  two  visits  to  Bombay  were  of  a  very  different  char- 
acter. We  had  the  new  railway  part  of  the  way,  so  the  ride 
of  a  couple  of  hundred  miles  was  as  nothing,  with  the  help  of 
the  excellent  arrangements  of  a  great  man's  progress.  And 
at  the  end  of  our  journey  we  enjoyed  the  most  hearty 
delightful  hospitality  of  our  Calcutta  friends,  Sir  Bartle  and 
Lady  Frere,  who  reigned  at  Government  House,  Bombay, 
and  at  Dapoorie,  near  Poonah.  The  Freres  were  quite  the 
most  perfect  of  hosts.  Everything  connected  with  Govern- 
ment House  was  thoroughly  well  done.  All  the  members 
of  the  family  and  household  were  after  the  manner  of  the 
heads  of  the  establishment,  and  those  who  had  not  in- 
herited their  charm  appeared  to  have  acquired  at  least 
some  portion  of  it  by  living  in  such  excellent  company. 
So,  on  both  occasions,  our  visits  were  most  enjoyable,  and 
I  had  the  best  opportunities  of  making  friends  with  many 
of  the  merchants  and  other  residents,  which  was  to  stand 
me  in  good  stead  later  on  in  my  new  post  of  Cotton  Com- 
missioner. Bombay  was,  at  the  date  of  both  our  visits, 
in  all  the  throes  of  the  share  mania,  consequent  on  the 
immense  rise  in  the  price  of  Indian  cotton  on  the  breaking 
out  of  the  civil  war  in  the  United  States.  The  conditions 
were  very  exceptional.     Every  one,  save  those  at  Govern- 


THE    SHARE    MANIA  I39 

ment  House,  seemed  to  have  gone  mad,  the  speculation 
craze  being  hot  upon  them.  This  will  to  some  extent  be 
understood  when  it  is  told  that  in  Bombay,  in  those  days, 
the  flood  of  silver  had  encouraged  to  a  wild  extent  every 
sort  of  scheme  for  the  investment  of  the  superabundant 
rupees.  One,  for  instance,  the  Back  Bay  Reclamation, 
which  was  to  provide  land  for  the  extension  of  the  city  of 
Bombay,  was  announced  with  a  capital  of  so  many  lacs 
of  rupees,  divided  into  shares  of,  say,  2000  rupees  each. 
Such  was  the  anxiety  to  obtain  shares  in  this  much-adver- 
tised and  favoured  scheme  that,  prior  to  allotment,  the 
shares  were  quoted  in  the  market  at,  say,  1000  rupees 
premium  each.  These  figures  are  not  intended  as  an 
exact  statement  of  facts,  but  are  given  in  the  view  of  ex- 
plaining the  position.  Well,  this  meant  that  any  one  who 
had  a  friend  among  the  directors  might  hope  for  an  allot- 
ment of  shares.  If  he  got  a  single  one,  he,  by  at  once 
selling  his  share,  could  pocket  iooo  rupees,  which,  as  the 
rupee  was  worth  in  those  days  two  shillings,  was  a  sum 
not  to  be  despised.  If  he  were  in  power,  or  especially 
fortunate,  he  might  receive  an  allotment  of  ten  or  even 
a  hundred  shares ;  and  it  requires  but  a  simple  calculation 
to  show  how  a  fortune  might  be  obtained  with  no  risk 
or  trouble.  Naturally,  many  were  wild  to  obtain  allot- 
ments of  shares  in  the  new  companies  that  were  announced 
with  shares  invariably  quoted  at  a  high  premium,  and 
scandal  was  rife  with  stories  of  how  some  of  the  greatest 
personages  in  the  Presidency  had  been  given  allotments  in 
the  hope,  it  was  insinuated,  of  their  lending  their  official 
support  to  this  particular  or  to  other  schemes.  And  there 
were  other  and  much  pleasanter  stories  current, — how  a 
kind-hearted  director  had  got  together  the  names  of  certain 
worthy  old  officers  known  to  be  badly  off  and  in  debt,  and 
in  allotting  to  them  shares,  had  spared  them  all  further 
anxiety,  and  sent  them  home  rejoicing.  Government  House 
was  the  only  quarter  that,  admittedly,  had  been  left  un- 
touched by  the  craze.     Sir  Bartle  Frere  seemed  to  Temple 


140  BOMBAY 

and  myself  to  move  about  quite  unconscious  of  what  was 
passing  around  him.  He  himself  was  such  a  perfectly 
clean,  honourable  gentleman  that  it  did  not  seem  to  suggest 
itself  to  him  that  any  others  in  the  service  could  possibly 
descend  to  engage  in  speculations  which,  in  view  of  their 
official  position,  were  objectionable,  and  it  was  obviously 
in  the  interest  of  some  of  his  advisers  to  keep  him  in  the 
dark.  Sir  George  Campbell,  who  was  subsequently  Lieu- 
tenant-Governor of  Bengal,  came  to  Government  House  the 
day  after  our  arrival,  and  made  some  strong  remarks  in  a 
very  audible  tone  as  to  what  was  going  on  in  Bombay. 
These  were  brought  to  Sir  Bartle's  knowledge,  and  in  the 
evening  he  came  up  to  Temple's  room  and  asked  him  to 
give  him  frankly  his  view  of  the  position,  which,  until  then, 
the  Governor  had  not  sufficiently  realised.  Temple  ex- 
plained fully  his  own  view  of  the  situation.  Sir  Bartle 
was  enlightened  and  convinced,  and  a  Government  resolu- 
tion was  promptly  issued  setting  forth  the  obligations  of 
officers  of  the  service  in  respect  to  the  spirit  of  specula- 
tion then  raging.  But  it  is  to  be  feared  that  the  warning 
came  somewhat  late,  and  that  much  harm  had  already 
been  wrought  before  the  Governor  was  able  to  put  on 
the  brake. 

I  was  often  to  see  Sir  Bartle  Frere  after  this  visit,  and 
to  enjoy  the  much-prized  hospitality  of  his  household.  And 
the  more  I  saw  of  him,  so  grew  my  admiration  of  that 
eminent  public  servant  and  most  delightful  of  characters. 
There  was  about  him  everything  to  captivate  the  imagina- 
tion of  a  young  man,  whether  an  official  or  non  -  official. 
For  everything  he  did,  he  did  well ;  and  he  was  so  favoured 
by  nature  in  figure  and  in  face  that  wherever  he  appeared 
his  presence  was  always  agreeably  impressive.  Whether 
he  turned  out  in  riding  kit  for  the  morning  gallop,  which 
he  loved,  or  stood  in  the  drawing  -  room  of  an  evening 
receiving  his  guests,  clad  in  conventional  black  dress-clothes, 
relieved  by  the  red  ribbon  of  the  Bath  around  his  neck  and 
the  sparkling  star  of  the  order  on  his  breast,  he  looked  what 


SIR    BARTLE    FRERE  141 

he  was,  a  most  distinguished  and  accomplished  gentleman. 
In  his  robes  as  Chancellor  of  the  University  of  Bombay, 
superimposed  on  his  full  political  blue-and-gold  uniform  (an 
arrangement,  by  the  way,  which  I  subsequently  attempt- 
ing to  copy  on  a  smaller  scale  was  ruled  out  of  order),  he 
looked  both  handsome  and  gorgeous.  But  I  think  the 
portrait  that  has  remained  on  my  mind,  and  which  I  like 
of  all  the  best,  is  that  of  Sir  Bartle  making  his  annual 
inspection  of  the  troops  at  Poonah.  I  can  see  him  riding 
down  the  lines,  splendidly  mounted,  and  with  his  perfectly 
easy  graceful  seat  in  the  saddle.  The  custom  then  was 
that  the  Governor  did  not  appear  in  uniform  at  the  review. 
Sir  Bartle's  mufti  included,  among  other  garbs,  a  perfectly- 
fitting  frock-coat,  on  which  glistened  his  star,  all  surmounted 
by  an  unexceptionable  white  hat.  And  he  looked  the  part 
of  the  civilian  Governor  to  perfection.  "  I  thought,"  growled 
out  an  old  officer  riding  near  me,  "  that  these  civilians  always 
put  on  uniform  on  such  occasions."  "  I  daresay  they  did," 
answered  one  of  our  companions.  "  I  suppose  in  former 
times  they  never  had  any  decent  mufti,  only  bazaar-made 
clothes,  you  know."  But  I  believe  that  facts  hardly  sustain 
the  accuracy  of  this  remark.  Later,  in  England,  I  was 
often  to  see  Sir  Bartle  and  Lady  Frere,  ever  the  most 
generous  and  tolerant  of  my  friends.  And  I  had  the  privi- 
lege of  corresponding  with  this  truly  noble  character  until 
a  short  time  before  his  lamented  death.  The  resentment 
with  which,  together  with  many  others,  I  regarded  the 
manner  in  which  he  was  treated,  and  my  real  sorrow  at  his 
death,  are  still  strong  upon  me  whilst  I  write.  And  the 
pity  that  he  was  not  spared  until  the  Boer  War  could  prove 
the  accuracy  of  his  forecast  and  the  correctness  of  his  little- 
heeded  warnings !  Looking  into  dates,  I  am  surprised  to 
find  that,  full  of  honours,  but  still  far  from  adequately  re- 
warded for  his  great  services  to  the  country,  he  died  at 
an  earlier  age  than  I,  who  have  been  spared  to  write  these 
notes,  have  already  attained. 

I  myself  was  more  than  once  tempted  to  have  a  plunge  in 


I42  BOMBAY 

speculation  during  my  Bombay  visits.  But,  fortunately,  I  was 
not  insensible  to  the  obligations  of  my  position  with  Temple, 
or  of  my  loyalty  to  Sir  Bartle,  my  host,  and  I  wisely  abstained. 
Temple  found  out  what  had  passed,  and  sending  for  me  one 
morning,  obligingly  assured  me  that  if  he  had  ascertained 
that  I  had  accepted  one  single  share,  he  would  have  turned 
me  out  of  the  Provinces  that  very  day.  An  attempt  "  to  get 
at "  the  rising  Chief  Commissioner  of  the  Central  Provinces, 
who  was  credited  with  much  influence,  was  not  unnatural. 
One  day  he  brought  me,  with  much  indignation,  a  letter 
from  a  well-known  firm,  offering  him  a  large  allotment  of 
shares  in  a  proposed  company  which  were  already  quoted 
at  a  high  premium.  This  meant  a  very  large  sum  into  his 
pocket  if  he  accepted  the  offer.  He  was  furious,  and  made 
me  write  back  a  scornfully  indignant  letter,  expressing  sur- 
prise that  such  an  offer  could  have  been  addressed  to  one 
holding  his  office.  Some  time  later,  when  he  was  Financial 
Member  of  Council,  Temple  showed  me  some  papers  con- 
nected with  this  very  same  scheme,  which  had  then  come 
under  the  unfavourable  notice  of  the  Government  of  India. 
And  he  remarked  to  me,  "  A  nice  position  I  should  have 
been  in  now,  had  I  accepted  the  bribe  these  gentlemen  so 
generously  offered  to  me  when  at  Nagpore !  "  In  all  his 
financial  arrangements  Temple,  as  I  have  reason  to  know, 
having  been  one  of  his  trustees,  was  most  particular.  He 
never  made  any  investment  in  India,  and  would  not  even 
touch  Government  paper.  All  that  he  saved  either  went 
to  extending  his  family  estate  in  Worcestershire,  or  was 
invested  in  British  or  foreign  Government  Stocks.  Soon 
after  his  arrival  he  succeeded  in  having  a  branch  of  the 
Bank  of  Bengal  established  at  Nagpore.  Until  then  all 
Government  officers  had  their  accounts  with  a  great  local 
native  banker,  who  was  consequently  a  power  in  the  land. 
He  not  only  knew  rather  too  much  about  every  officer's 
private  affairs,  but  had  the  entree  of  the  houses  of  all 
officials  from  the  highest  to  the  lowest.  In  those  days, 
with  the  cotton  famine  on,  the  balance  of  trade  was  greatly 


TEMPLE    AND    NATIVE    BANKERS  I43 

on  the  side  of  Nagpore,  and  the  expense  of  bringing  up 
specie  by  cart  or  camel  was  considerable.  So  any  one 
who  could  save  from  his  pay,  and  wished  to  send  money 
home  or  to  Bombay,  had  the  exchange  well  in  his  favour, 
and  could  add  each  month  a  certain  number  of  rupees 
to  his  account  by  watching  and  working  the  exchange. 
The  wily  native  would  come  round  occasionally  with  news 
of  a  favourable  rise  in  the  market,  which  might  make  His 
Honour  desirous  of  remitting  to  Bombay  ?  Before  Temple's 
time  it  was  the  joke  of  the  place  that  the  banker  could 
always  command  admittance  to  the  great,  even  when  the 
gates  were  shut  to  others.  And  occasionally,  no  doubt,  when 
visiting  an  important  official,  the  wily  banker  had  a  chance 
of  inserting  a  word  or  two  on  some  other  subject  in  which 
he  had  an  interest.  The  whole  native  world  outside,  at 
least,  firmly  believed  that  this  was  the  case,  and  hence  the 
man  was  a  real  power  in  the  land.  When  officers'  accounts 
were  kept  with  the  uninteresting  Bank  of  Bengal,  this  native 
gentleman  had  less  interest  in,  and  excuse  for,  his  constant 
visits  to  officials. 


144 


CHAPTER   VII. 


C  H  AN  D  AH. 

1865-1866. 

Am  appointed  Settlement  Officer — The  assessment  of  the  Government 
land  revenue — The  bestowal  of  proprietary  right — The  question  in 
the  Gurboree  district  of  Chandah — The  claims  of  the  absentee 
Court-favourites  versus  the  Coerie  cultivators  on  the  spot — The 
great  tanks,  or  artificial  lakes,  made  by  these  latter — I  decide  a 
ruling  case  in  favour  of  the  cultivator — Great  joy  throughout  the 
district — My  pleasures  in  camp — The  people  by  degrees  gain 
confidence — Commencement  with  the  children — Elephant  rides — 
Magic-lantern — The  duck,  fish,  and  magnet — Parents  join  in  the 
revels — My  success  —  Destroyed  by  counter-attraction  —  A  six 
weeks'  British  baby  arrives  in  camp — Is  powdered  twice  daily  in 
public — My  shows  are  deserted — Companions  of  my  solitude — 
Sport — Sketching — 'Cello — Intelligent  young  elephant — My  beloved 
"Selim" — How  the  old  Sheikh  selected  him  for  me — The  Arab's 
companionship  in  camp — Horse  has  no  chance  against  dog  as  a 
house  companion  —  Selim's  services,  extending  over  more  than 
twenty  years — His  devoted  old  groom,  Kurban — Selim  dies  of 
snake-bite — Sorrow  and  depravity  of  Kurban — Takes  to  native 
liquor,  and  follows  his  beloved  companion — My  books — Prinsep's 
'  Antiquities '  —  '  The  Initials '  —  '  Undine  '  and  '  Sintram  '  —  '  Mr 
Sponge's  Sporting  Tour ' — Dangerous  companion  to  a  young  man 
— Melancholy  story  of  "Black  Tommy"  and  this  book  —  My 
successors  with  Temple — The  brethren  of  St  Francois  de  Sales  at 
Nagpore — I  assist  their  colony,  and  shoot  heretic  tiger — The  band 
— Priest  on  the  committee — The  sick  young  priest's  reasons  for 
declining  my  hospitality — He  is  persuaded. 

After  I  had  served  for  two  years  as  Assistant-Secretary, 
Temple  told  me  one  day  that  my  only  chance  of  learning 
my  real  work  was  to  leave  headquarters  and  go  out  into 
the  districts  among  the  people.  He  held  that  the  best  of 
all  training  was  to  be  obtained  in  the  Settlement  Department, 


APPOINTED    SETTLEMENT   OFFICER  I45 

in  which  he  himself,  and  many  other  officers  well  to  the 
front,  had  been  raised.  The  work  of  the  Settlement  Officer 
brought  him  directly  into  contact  with  the  cultivators  and 
landholders,  whose  conditions,  wants,  customs,  and  history 
had  all  to  be  investigated  before  even  an  attempt  at  a  "Settle- 
ment "  could  be  made ;  the  settlement  in  question  being 
the  settlement  of  the  land  revenue  of  a  district — i.e.,  the 
determination  of  the  amount  of  land  revenue  to  be  paid 
to  Government  by  the  people,  and  of  many  questions  re- 
lating thereto,  all  requiring  a  very  careful  study  of  the 
district  and  its  people  in  all  its  aspects.  I  was  appointed 
Settlement  Officer  of  the  Wurdah  and  Chandah  districts, 
in  succession  to  Sir  Charles  Bernard,  who  came  to  Nagpore 
as  Chief  Secretary.  The  settlement  of  Wurdah  was  then 
about  half  finished ;  that  of  Chandah,  the  adjoining  district, 
had  only  recently  been  commenced.  So  I  was  to  have  my 
hands  pretty  full.  The  districts  were  divided  into  a  certain 
number  of  what  were  termed  "villages," — that  is  to  say, 
not  only  the  homesteads,  but  the  lands  thereto  appertaining 
within  certain  boundaries.  These  were,  in  fact,  large  estates 
with  a  resident  population,  nearly  entirely  occupied  with 
the  cultivation  of  the  land  within  the  village  limits.  The 
Province  of  Nagpore  had  but  recently  been  annexed  by  our 
Government,  and  the  levy  of  the  land  revenue  was  accord- 
ing to  the  arrangements  made  under  the  native  regime, 
which  were  known  to  be  open  to  improvement.  It  is  not 
proposed  to  enter  here  into  any  detailed  description  of  the 
various  and  interesting  duties  which  occupied  a  Settlement 
Officer's  day.  These  included  survey  and  measurements, 
the  settlement  of  boundary  disputes,  the  examination  of 
tenures,  the  classification  of  soils,  the  inspection  of  villages, 
the  hearing  of  complaints,  and  many  other  important  duties 
which  assisted  to  a  complete  education  in  the  history  of  the 
country,  economic  and  political.  These  notes,  however, 
will  relate  chiefly  to  a  very  important  part  of  my  new 
duties — namely,  what  was  termed  the  bestowal  of  proprie- 
tary right  in  these  estates. 

K 


I46  CHANDAH 

This  work  in  Wurdah  had  already  been  completed  by 
Sir  Charles  Bernard,  but  I  had  the  good  fortune  of  having 
this  most  interesting  duty  left  to  me  to  undertake  and 
carry  through  in  Chandah.  In  the  old  Nagpore  Province 
the  rule  had  been  that  all  lands  were  the  property  of  the 
Maharajah  or  ruler.  Every  man  who  held  land  was  but 
a  tenant,  and  had  to  pay  towards  the  revenue.  But  the 
State  did  not  trouble  itself  to  deal  with  the  individual 
cultivator.  The  native  Revenue  Department  took  a 
"  village,"  or  estate,  as  above  described,  and,  making  a 
rough  estimate,  decided  that  it  should  pay  annually  a  sum 
of,  say,  1000  rupees  into  the  Government  treasury.  The 
collecting  of  this  sum  was  entrusted  to  a  farmer  called  a 
Malgoozar,  with  whom  a  contract  was  made  for  a  term  of 
years,  generally  thirty.  The  village  and  the  villagers  were 
then  handed  over  to  the  man  chosen  as  farmer,  and  so 
long  as  he  paid  in  the  fixed  sum  regularly,  the  Native 
Government  did  not  ask  many  questions,  and  this  Malgoozar 
might  screw  as  much  as  he  could  out  of  the  cultivators 
and  pocket  the  difference  between  his  collection  and  the 
Government  demand.  In  the  rich  estates  with  good  culti- 
vation near  Nagpore,  affairs  were  fairly  well  managed :  the 
farmer  often  lived  on  the  spot,  looked  after  the  people, 
helped  them  in  bad  years,  and  was  not  so  bad  a  master. 
But  as  one  got  farther  away  from  headquarters,  and  found 
oneself  in  Chandah,  in  an  out-of-the-way,  hilly,  and  jungly 
district  lying  to  the  south,  on  the  Wyngungah  and  Godavery 
rivers,  the  condition  of  the  cultivator  was  not  so  satisfac- 
tory. The  Malgoozars  there  were  all  absentees,  and,  never 
going  near  their  villages,  left  their  agents  to  screw  from 
the  people  the  largest  amount  possible.  The  out-of-the-way 
Chandah  villages  had  all  fallen  into  the  hands  of  Court- 
favourites,  the  brothers  of  dancing  -  girls,  pimps,  and 
scoundrels  of  many  sorts,  to  whom  the  Malgoozarship  was 
a  valuable  asset.  The  term  of  years  under  which  these 
gentry  held  was  just  coming  to  an  end,  and  our  Govern- 
ment  had   determined   to  make  a  complete  change  in  the 


THE  SETTLEMENT  OF  CHANDAH  147 

revenue  system.  The  lands,  the  property  of  the  Maha- 
rajah, had  now  passed  into  the  possession  of  the  British 
Crown,  and  it  was  decided  that  the  leasing  system  should  be 
abolished,  and  that  proprietary  right  in  these  estates  should 
not  be  retained  by  the  Government,  but  should  be  bestowed 
on  those  persons  who  should  be  considered,  on  inquiry,  to 
be  the  most  deserving  of  this  valuable  possession.  It  could 
hardly  be  maintained  that  any  one  had  any  real  claim  to 
the  gift,  as  the  Malgoozar's  tenure  of  his  farm  had  been 
precarious,  and  he  had  been  liable  to  be  turned  out  by  the 
Native  Government  at  the  close  of  his  lease,  if  not  indeed 
before,  if  any  one  outbid  him,  or  any  other  scoundrel  about 
the  Court  came  more  prominently  into  favour.  The  culti- 
vators had  never  entertained  the  remotest  hope  of  becoming 
proprietors  of  their  holdings,  and  many,  so  long  as  they 
were  not  too  unfairly  dealt  with,  would  be  quite  content 
with  the  continuance  of  the  old  state  of  things,  and  even 
prefer  it  to  a  change  and  direct  contact  with  Government 
officials.  For  the  native  of  India  holds  very  strongly  and 
sensibly,  "  Better  the  devil  you  know  than  the  devil  you 
don't  know."  The  Settlement  Officer  had  then  to  decide 
the  important  question  in  the  case  of  each  estate,  On  whom 
should  the  proprietary  right  be  bestowed  ?  I  had  to  com- 
mence by  giving  my  decision  in  the  Gurboree  division  of 
the  Chandah  district,  where  the  conditions  were  somewhat 
unusual.  The  country  was  intersected  with  low  hills,  and 
the  forest  and  jungle  were  extensive.  What  there  was  of 
cultivation  was  excellent,  consisting  chiefly  of  large  patches 
adjoining  the  jungle.  The  value  and  merit  of  the  cultiva- 
tion was  due  to  its  being  mostly  irrigated  from  what  were 
called  "tanks," — really  splendid,  and  in  many  cases  exten- 
sive, artificial  lakes,  in  which  the  district  abounded.  The 
cultivators  were  nearly  all  of  a  caste  called  "  Coeries," 
market-gardeners,  who  had  come  down  from  the  Benares 
country  several  generations  before,  and,  clearing  the  jungle, 
had  made  these  artificial  lakes,  and  with  their  aid  had 
brought  a  considerable  area  under  cultivation  with   sugar- 


I48  CHANDAH 

cane,  betel-nut,  and  other  crops  of  high  class.  The  Coerie 
has  a  wonderful  eye  for  irrigation  possibilities,  and  this  he 
brought  to  bear  in  the  Chandah  district,  selecting  sites 
between  two  ranges  of  hills,  where  a  small  embankment 
would  throw  back  a  stream  and  provide  him  a  lake  to 
supply  the  water  for  neighbouring  village  lands.  So  soon 
as  the  lake  had  been  made  and  the  cultivation  well  started, 
the  village  had  been  seized  and  made  over  by  the  Native 
Government  to  some  scoundrel  about  the  Nagpore  Court, 
who  promptly  sent  down  an  agent  to  bleed  the  Coeries. 
And  this  he  generally  did  fairly  thoroughly.  Such  was 
the  condition  of  things  as  found  by  me  in  Gurboree  when 
I  went  there  early  one  hot-weather  to  determine  the  ques- 
tion of  Proprietary  Right. 

I  pitched  my  camp  in  the  centre  of  the  tract,  near  a 
beautiful  lake,  and  spent  some  considerable  time  in  riding 
about,  making  inquiries  and  collecting  information  relating 
to  the  Coeries,  their  doings  and  their  claims.  In  due  course 
a  number  of  Malgoozars  from  Nagpore  made  their  appear- 
ance at  my  camp,  having  for  the  first  time  in  their  lives 
come  to  see  their  estates  in  distant  Chandah.  They  were 
nearly  all  of  the  same  type  :  favourites  of  the  old  Court  of  an 
undesirable  class,  dissipated,  wretched  creatures  who  were  very 
miserable  in  a  jungle  camp,  and  whose  only  interest  in  the 
village  was  the  amount  of  rupees  their  managers  could  squeeze 
out  of  the  cultivators  annually.  These  gentry  pleaded, 
through  their  advocates,  and  sometimes  in  person,  their 
long  connection  with  the  villages,  and,  asserting  that  they 
had  ever  evinced  the  deepest  interest  in  the  country  and  their 
tenantry,  claimed  that  proprietary  right  should  be  bestowed 
upon  them.  On  the  other  hand,  the  hard-working  Coeries 
prayed  that  they  might  be  released  from  the  yoke  of  these 
absentee  rack-renters,  who  had  never  helped  them  in  any 
way,  and  who  would  not  even  contribute  when  necessary 
towards  repairing  the  embankment  of  the  lake  on  which 
the  village  lands  depended  for  their  irrigation.  The  Coeries 
could  invariably  prove  that  their  ancestors  had  come  down 


PROPRIETARY   RIGHT  149 

long  years  before  from  the  Benares  Province,  had  cleared 
the  jungle,  made  the  lake  and  cultivated  the  lands,  and  that 
then,  when  everything  had  been  got  into  order,  they  and 
the  village  had  been  handed  over  to  the  Malgoozar,  who 
had  fattened  on  their  industry  for  an  admitted  long  number 
of  years.  It  was  known  that  in  the  other  districts,  where 
the  Malgoozars  had  lived  on  their  estates  and  recognised 
their  duties  as  landlords,  the  Settlement  Officer  had  ac- 
cepted the  fact  of  a  man  being  in  possession,  and  having 
long  held  a  lease,  as  very  strong  points  in  a  claimant's 
favour,  generally  securing  for  him  proprietary  right.  So 
the  proofs  of  long  tenancy  were  produced  before  me  with 
great  satisfaction  by  the  Nagpore  men,  who  relied  entirely 
on  this  occupancy  and  possession  argument.  I  could  not 
help  remembering  the  decision  of  the  Republican  judge 
during  the  French  Revolution,  who  encouraged  a  suitor  of 
one  of  the  old  noblesse,  who  claimed  an  estate,  to  prove 
carefully  step  by  step  that  the  property  had  been  in  the 
family  without  break  for  four  hundred  and  fifty  years.  That 
done,  he  said,  "  Citizen,  I  am  entirely  satisfied  with  the 
evidence,  and  consider  it  has  been  indubitably  established 
that  your  family  have  held  this  property  for  four  hundred 
and  fifty  years.  Now,  however,  I  think  that  that  is  long 
enough,  and  I  consider  it  is  quite  time  that  some  other 
family  should  have  a  turn  at  it !  " 

But  it  was,  of  course,  not  quite  on  these  lines  that  the 
decision  went.  The  question  was,  Who  had  the  better  claim, 
the  Nagpore  absentee  with  a  very  long  record  of  ill-doing,  or 
the  Coerie  headman  with  his  many  years  of  successful  toil  ? 
For  in  each  village  there  was  inevitably  to  be  found  some 
family  among  these  cultivators  who  had  ever  taken  the  lead, 
and  had  held  the  management  of  village  affairs,  and  who 
would  be  accepted  gladly  as  landlord,  the  tenant  rights  of  the 
others  being  recorded  and  secured  by  the  Settlement  Officer. 
The  cases  I  had  to  decide  in  Gurboree  were  practically  all 
of  the  same  type.  Some  Malgoozars  had  held  longer  than 
others ;    in   some   cases   the   arrival   of  the    Coeries   in  the 


150  CHANDAH 

district  had  been  comparatively  late.  All  these  facts  had 
to  be  inquired  into  and  recorded.  This  done,  I  was  in  a 
position  to  announce  my  decision  as  to  who  should  become 
proprietor,  the  Malgoozar  or  the  Coerie.  The  decision  was 
awaited  with  immense  interest  by  all  concerned,  and  a 
certain  afternoon  in  May  was  fixed  for  the  announcement. 
It  was  evident  that  the  order  in  one  case  would  govern 
nearly  all  the  rest,  so  the  decision  in  the  first  case  on  the 
list  was  to  be  read  out  in  public  by  me  under  a  splendid 
tree  near  the  bank  of  the  lake  in  front  of  my  camp.  Here 
assembled,  from  all  parts  of  the  district,  on  that  afternoon 
hundreds  of  Coeries  interested  in  the  result.  I  had  no 
difficulty  in  deciding  in  favour  of  the  cultivator  against 
the  absentee  Malgoozar.  Not  only  had  the  former  the 
better  claim  for  past  work,  but  it  was  certain  that  the 
Government  interests  would  be  more  secure  in  the  hands 
of  the  patient,  industrious  Coeries  on  the  spot,  than  of  the 
dissipated  absentee  at  Nagpore.  So  Proprietary  Right  was 
bestowed  according  to  my  decision  on  the  Coeries,  and  the 
district  saw  no  more  of  the  temporary  visitors  from  Nagpore. 

I  am  not  likely  ever  to  be  able  to  forget  the  scene  that 
afternoon  and  evening  round  my  camp.  The  Coeries  were 
in  the  wildest  state  of  excitement  and  exultation  at  their 
success,  and  came  round  the  camp  until  late  at  night  with 
the  most  excruciating  village  music  and  melodies.  Deputa- 
tions brought  me  offerings  of  flowers,  of  fruits  and  sweet- 
meats, and  the  next  few  days  wherever  I  passed  the  whole 
village  would  turn  out  and  wah-wah  me,  which  is  the  local 
mode  of  expressing  great  satisfaction.  Thus  were  these 
deserving  people  righted  and  made  supremely  happy.  And 
the  whole  countryside  benefited.  The  Nagpore  people  ap- 
pealed, of  course,  against  my  decision.  But  it  was  upheld, 
and  is  still,  I  hear,  talked  of  by  Coeries  of  the  present 
day  as  the  charter  of  their  liberties  and  prosperity. 

This  was  only  one  step  in  the  many  inquiries  that  had 
to  be  made  and  decisions  given  on  every  variety  of  subject 
towards  the  great  end  of  fixing  the  sum  to  be  paid  by  each 


DIVERSIONS    IN    CAMP  151 

estate — the  assessment  of  the  Government  revenue  in  the 
district.  For  this  purpose  I  and  my  assistants  had  to  pass 
all  the  hot-weather  and  cold  season  in  camp,  going  into  the 
station  only  when  the  rains  made  district  work  impossible, 
and  when  a  mass  of  clerical  work  had  to  be  undertaken  by 
the  native  staff  in  less  unstable  quarters  than  tents.  But 
the  real  time  of  enjoyment  was  the  camp  life,  which,  besides 
sport  of  all  kinds,  had  many  varieties  of  delights  to  any  one 
interested  in  the  country  and  the  people.  These  latter  were, 
of  course,  somewhat  timid  and  suspicious  at  first.  But  with 
a  little  patience  and  management  most  of  this  suspicion 
could  be  dispelled.  I  found  the  easiest  and  surest  way  of 
getting  at  the  people  was  through  the  children.  These  I 
enlisted  as  my  allies ;  and  the  plan  succeeded  well,  and  has 
been  applied  with  equally  satisfactory  results  in  the  Alpine 
country  around  this  old  chateau,  where  some  of  our  time 
is  now  passed  annually.  I  had  a  couple  of  elephants  with 
me.  These  were  quite  unknown  in  most  parts  of  the  district, 
and  the  arrival  of  my  camp  was  of  as  much  interest  to  the 
native  children  as  the  advent  of  a  circus  is  to  the  youngsters 
of  a  British  village.  The  camp  would  be  besieged  by  all 
the  gamins  of  the  neighbourhood,  and  their  joy  would  be 
intense  when  it  became  known  that,  in  the  evening,  the 
elephant  would  take  a  select  party  for  a  ride  on  its  back. 
I  was  generally  present  in  person  when  the  riding -party 
was  chosen,  and  would  help  some  of  the  small  boys  to  climb 
on  to  the  elephant's  back,  where  they  would  cling  together, 
like  a  number  of  young  rats,  during  the  ride  through  the 
village.  Encouraged  by  this  treat,  they  would  return  to  the 
camp,  where  in  the  cool  of  the  evening  a  show  of  some  sort 
would  be  prepared  for  young  and  old,  as  the  children  soon 
taught  their  parents  that  the  sahib  was  not  to  be  feared,  and 
persuaded  their  elders  to  accompany  them.  The  magic- 
lantern  had  a  long  run  of  popularity,  and  both  young  and  old 
were  impressed  by  the  resource  of  the  British  tar  in  the  well- 
known  old  slide,  the  tiger  in  the  tub,  the  tail  through  the 
bung-hole,  the  tying  of  that  tail  in  a  knot,  the  tiger's  im- 


152  CHANDAH 

prisonment  resulting  therefrom,  and  his  final  slaughter  by 
the  brave  tar  with  his  cutlass !  But  I  think  I  scored  even  a 
greater  success  with  a  large  basin  of  water,  placed  outside 
the  tent  door,  in  which  was  the  fish,  duck,  and  magnet  of 
one's  childhood.  It  was  to  those  simple  villagers  indeed  a 
marvel  that  the  sahib  could  make  the  fish  or  duck  follow 
him  round  the  basin !  They  did  not,  of  course,  notice  that 
the  magnet  was  turned  in  the  process  of  its  being  handed 
to  them.  And  then  great  indeed  was  the  astonishment  when 
it  was  seen  that  the  fish  would  not  only  decline  to  follow 
any  native,  but  would  positively  retreat  from  before  him ! 

By  this  and  other  means  —  by  shooting  an  occasional 
troublesome  tiger,  by  dosing  a  fever  -  stricken  man  with 
quinine,  and  so  on — I  managed  by  degrees  to  get  on  quite 
confidential  terms  with  the  people.  Fortunately,  I  no  longer 
relied  so  much  as  formerly  on  these  shows  and  parlour  tricks 
for  holding  their  confidence.  For  I  was  soon  to  learn  that  my 
popularity  as  a  Barnum  must  go  down  entirely  before  a  great 
counter-attraction  introduced  by  my  married  assistant.     This 

officer,  Captain  S ,  joined  me  in  camp,  temporarily,  and 

brought  with  him  his  wife  and  quite  a  new  baby.  This  baby 
entirely  put  the  noses  of  the  elephant,  the  magic-lantern,  and 
the  fish,  duck,  and  magnet  out  of  joint.  It  soon  became 
known  throughout  the  countryside  that,  in  the  cool  of  the 
morning  and  evening,  that  pink-and-white  baby  was  taken 
outside  the  tent,  its  clothes  removed,  and  its  body  powdered 
publicly.  And  the  whole  population  of  the  neighbourhood, 
male,  female,  young  and  old,  turned  out  and  sat  outside  the 
camp  waiting  patiently  to  see  the  operation,  and  remained 
in  breathless  admiration  until  the  close  of  the  performance. 
Fortunately,  by  this  time  I  had  got  sufficiently  far  with  my 
clients  not  to  fear  the  effects  of  such  dangerous  competition. 
I  think  now  that  one  might  have  scored  considerably  if  one 
had  had  in  those  days  a  megaphone  or  phonograph  and  the 
like.  But  I  am  persuaded  that  nothing  would  have  stood 
against  the  exhibition  and  powdering  of  the  pink-and-white 
British  baby  in  its  primitive  state. 


COMPANIONS   OF    MY    SOLITUDE  153 

Whilst  I  thus  provided  some  divertisement  for  my  many 
native  friends,  I  was  myself  also  fairly  well  supplied  with 
interests,  and  was  thoroughly  happy  in  camp.  When  I 
first  went  out  into  the  districts,  it  was  supposed  that  I  had 
so  long  been  accustomed  to  be  surrounded  by  a  very  varied 
society  that,  the  novelty  once  worn  off,  I  should  find  the 
solitude  of  camp  life  intolerable.  But  so  was  it  not  to  be. 
I  quite  enjoyed  an  occasional  run  into  the  station,  to  inspect 
my  headquarters  office  and  to  take  a  few  days'  change  amidst 
comparative  civilisation.  But,  for  the  rest,  I  was  absolutely 
happy  in  my  tents,  amidst  my  work,  tigers,  and  other  resources. 
I  again  took  to  reading,  and  even  commenced  the  study  of  some 
Indian  subjects,  and,  thanks  to  Tod's  '  Rajasthan,'  '  Ariana 
Antiqua,'  '  Prinsep,'  and  other  standard  books  recommended 
to  me  by  Sir  Bartle  Frere,  I  imbibed  a  taste  for,  and  acquired 
some  knowledge  of,  Indian  antiquities,  which  have  remained 
as  my  valued  companions  ever  since.  I  sketched  and 
painted  too,  whenever  it  was  fairly  cool,  and  had  even  with 
me  a  'cello  during  the  cold  weather,  which,  however,  could 
not  be  expected  to  face  the  hot  weather  or  rains.  My  great 
dread  was  the  occasional  appearance  in  my  camp  of  some 
good  -  natured  bore,  who  would  ride  over  from  some  ten 
miles  off  to  keep  me  company  and  "to  cheer  me  up,"  as 
he  would  term  it.  "  Don't  you  find  it  very  dull  where  you 
are,  out  by  yourselves  in  the  district  ? "  I  once  heard  a 
lady,  who  was  devoted  to  the  local  club  and  gossip  (for  in 
India  the  local  club  has  its  special  ladies'  quarter),  say  to 
another,  the  wife  of  a  planter,  who  had  a  bungalow  and 
pretty  grounds  some  ten  miles  out.  "  I  find  it  quiet,"  was 
the  reply,  "  but  never  dull."  For  dulness,  in  truth,  is  an 
inherent  personal  quality.  If  you  have  no  natural  cheer- 
fulness and  resource,  the  more's  the  pity,  and  you  will  find 
it  dull  in  most  places.  But  with  a  certain  stock  of  resource 
piled  up  for  future  use  as  required,  and  a  happy  faculty  of 
being  able  to  interest  yourself  in  the  minor  things  that  sur- 
round you,  it  need  never  be  necessary  to  be  dull,  whether 
alone  in  camp  or  elsewhere.     At  least,  that  was  my  experi- 


154  CHANDAH 

ence,  and,  like  my  dear  friend  of  later  years,  the  talented 
and  cheery  "  Elizabeth " x  in  her  beloved  German  garden, 
I  would  much  resent  the  appearance  of  the  bore  aforesaid, 
who,  full  of  good  intentions,  would  intrude  upon  one's 
solitude.  This  visit  would  mean  my  having  to  play  com- 
pany and  talk  platitudes  during  the  day  and  evening  when- 
ever one's  work  left  one  spare  time.  Then  the  sketch  would 
have  to  be  left  uncared  for,  just  as  it  demanded  a  fresh 
"wash";  the  'cello  must  be  laid  aside;  and  after  dinner 
there  would  be  no  chance  for  the  book,  which  had  had  the 
marker  left  in  a  most  interesting  passage.  And  how  grate- 
ful one  was  when  the  worthy  old  bore,  thanking  one,  took 
his  leave  and  cantered  back  to  his  camp ! 

Besides  my  books  and  other  inanimate  surroundings  min- 
istering to  happiness  in  camp,  I  had  also  as  "  companions 
of  my  solitude  "  my  dog,  my  horses,  and  a  very  intelligent 
little  elephant,  who  would  afford  much  amusement  during 
the  morning  and  evening  visit  to  his  tree,  well  outside  the 
camp.  Of  dogs  I  had,  in  my  time,  a  whole  succession  of 
beloved  friends,  but  of  whom  I  do  not  care  to  allow  myself 
to  write  much.  Alas !  the  then  conditions  did  not  admit 
of  their  being  long-lived,  and  one  was  periodically  harrowed 
by  the  sufferings  and  death  of  a  valued  companion,  and  the 
attempt  to  accommodate  oneself  to  the  characteristics  of  a 
successor.  My  wife  and  I  had  a  dear  dog  who  for  fourteen 
years  distrib.  ""ed  its  affection  between  master  and  mistress 
with  such  exquis'te  impartiality  and  tact  that  we  were  both 
devoted  to  it — the  one  as  much  as  the  other — as  one  might 
be  to  a  favourite  child.  When  that  dog  died  we  were  both 
seriously  unhappy,  and  wisely  determined  not  to  replace  it. 
We  both  loved  the  dear  little  beastie  too  much  to  tolerate 
a  successor. 

Last,  but  not  least,  I  had  always  with  me  in  camp  my 
Arab,  my  beloved  "  Selim,"  who  had  been  with  me  ever 
since  my  first  month   in   Calcutta.      During  my  busy  days 

1  The  Countess  von  Arnim,  whom  I  hope  to  be  able  to  introduce  later,  some 
afternoon,  whilst  on  a  visit  to  this  Chateau  de  Rougemont. 


MY   DEAR   SELIM  155 

at  the  capital,  or  whilst  scampering  over  the  Provinces 
with  Temple,  my  acquaintance  with  dear  Selim  had  been 
almost  entirely  official.  That  is  to  say,  I  had  ridden  him 
regularly,  and  had  earned  several  thousands  of  rupees  on  his 
back,  in  travelling  allowance,  whilst  riding  him  on  duty. 
But  I  had  had  little  opportunity  of  knowing  that  brave 
horse  in,  so  to  speak,  private  life.  Now  in  camp  we  were 
to  be  much  together,  and  when  it  was  off-duty  and  off-saddle 
of  an  evening  we  got  to  know  one  another  intimately,  and  to 
appreciate  one  another,  and  to  become  firm  friends.  As  I 
have  said,  he  came  to  me  early  in  my  Indian  life  in  Calcutta. 
I  had  already  set  myself  up  with  the  necessary  buggy-horse. 
But  to  make  my  stud  complete  I  required  a  really  good 
saddle-horse,  an  Arab, — for  riding  then  under  ten  and  a  half 
stone,  I  knew  there  was  nothing  like  an  Arab  for  my  work. 
The  Cabulis  were  all  very  well  between  the  shafts,  or  to  ride 
a  stage  when  necessary,  but  for  real  enjoyment  one  must 
have  an  Arab,  a  real  Arab,  such  as  was  yet  to  be  found  in 
those  days,  and  not  what  was  called  then  and  thereafter  a 
"  Gulf  Arab."  A  well-known  character  in  Calcutta  fifty 
years  ago  was  the  old  "  Sheik  "  who  was  to  be  seen  every 
morning  at  Cook's  Livery  Stables,  where  he  kept  his  string 
of  horses.  My  cousin,  Mr  Charles  Rivett  -  Carnac,  then 
magistrate  of  Dacca,  was  a  well  -  known  sportsman,  and 
most  of  his  horses,  which  had  made  him  famous  on  the 
Calcutta  course  and  the  Tent  Club,  had  come  from  his 
friend  the  "  Sheik."  To  this  old  character  I  was  given  by 
my  kinsman  a  letter  with  the  advice,  "  Leave  the  matter 
in  the  old  fellow's  hands  entirely.  I  have  told  him  you 
want  a  really  good  Arab,  and  will  pay  a  fair  price.  And 
he  will  give  you  one  that  will  be  a  joy  to  you  for  ever." 
And  so  it  turned  out.  I  did  not  attempt  to  pretend  to  know 
anything  about  horses.  Nor  did  I  bring  down  with  me  any 
one  to  inspect  the  stable  or  assist  me  in  my  choice.  "  Sheik 
Sahib,"  I  said,  "I  trust  entirely  to  you."  And  he  answered 
by  producing  the  most  shapely,  gentle,  delightful  beast  I 
had  ever  set  eyes  upon.     "  This,"  said  he,  "  is  for  the  bhai 


156  CHANDAH 

[brother]  of  my  good  friend  at  Dacca,  who  knows  me,  and 
knows  a  good  horse.  And  Selim  will  disappoint  neither 
of  you.  He  is  the  flower  of  my  flock."  And  so  for  the 
sum  of  1200  rupees — a  good  sum  in  those  days — I  became 
the  master  of  dear  Selim  and  a  syce,  or  groom,  who  had 
been  with  him  some  little  time,  and  which  pair  for  more 
than  twenty  years  followed  my  fortunes. 

Dear  Selim  !  He  was  unusually  large  and  powerful  for  an 
Arab.  He  had  a  delightful  temper,  great  muscle,  and  what 
many,  especially  my  female  friends,  thought  most  important, 
quite  a  beautiful  tail.  A  horse  has  small  chance  against  a  dog 
in  establishing  himself  in  his  master's  affections  as  a  com- 
panion and  friend.  Neither  Selim  nor  I  would  have  been 
comfortable  companions  had  he  curled  himself  up  on  my 
bed  at  my  feet  at  night.  And  he  bulked  too  large  to  be  con- 
venient either  in  an  office-room  or  in  a  tent  during  the  day. 
So,  before  I  came  out  into  the  wilderness,  we  could  only 
get  to  know  one  another  when  I  went  down  occasionally  to 
his  stable  in  the  club  with  a  piece  of  sugar-cane,  or  when  we 
went  out  together  for  a  ride.  He  had  many  winning  ways, 
and  showed  real  intellect  in  some  things.  He  learnt  to 
understand  the  modulations  of  my  voice,  and  did  pretty 
nearly  exactly  what  I  told  him  to  do. 

Years  afterwards,  when  I  first  took  up  the  command  of 
Volunteers,  I  rode  him  one  day  for  the  first  time  as  a  charger 
on  parade,  for  he  was  well  above  charger  -  height.  Little 
anticipating  any  such  result,  I  roared  out  the  word  of  com- 
mand at  the  top  of  my  voice,  as  I  had  been  told  to  do,  as 
this  was  a  point  on  which  our  General  was  most  particular. 
Before  I  knew  where  I  was,  we  were  right  across  the  parade- 
ground.  I  was  buckled  up  in  an  unaccustomed  uniform, 
had  my  drawn  sword  in  my  hand,  whilst  the  scabbard  and 
sabretasche,  to  which  Selim  had  not  previously  been  in- 
troduced, smote  him  on  the  flank  at  every  bound.  We  were 
well  into  the  open  country  before,  more  by  speaking  to  him 
gently  than  by  tugging  at  his  mouth,  I  persuaded  him  to 
come  to  the  halt.     Dear  old  Selim,  he  had  never  heard  me 


ARAB   AS   A   COMPANION  157 

speak  to  him  in  anger,  and  my  howl  of  command  suggested 
that  I  was  furious  with  him,  and  he  had  been  fairly  frightened 
out  of  his  wits  !  He  carried  me  several  thousand  miles  during 
the  two  years  I  scampered  with  Temple  all  over  the  Central 
Provinces,  and  worked  as  Settlement  Officer  and  Cotton 
Commissioner.  And  twice  did  I  ride  him  from  Nagpore,  in 
the  very  centre  of  India,  to  the  sea.  I  rode  him  into  a  very 
mild  Bay  of  Bengal  wavelet  one  morning  at  Poori.  And  a 
year  later  I  wetted  his  feet  on  the  same  shores,  but  some 
hundred  miles  south,  when  I  accompanied  Temple  down 
the  Godavery  to  Coconada.  On  the  former  occasion  we 
marched  through  some  desolate  jungles  between  Sumbulpore 
and  Cuttack.  The  supplies  ran  short,  and  the  horses  had  to 
put  up  with  some  wretched  small  grain,  the  best  procurable. 
But  Mr  Selim  the  while  had  his  gram  daily  like  a  gentle- 
man. It  turned  out  that  his  old  syce  (he  was  not  young  when 
he  came  to  me  with  the  horse)  had  insisted  on  each  camel- 
driver  carrying  a  small  supply  for  his  favourite,  in  case  of 
accidents.  For  that  service  Kurban  Syce,  during  the  many 
years  he  was  yet  with  me,  drew  regularly  one  rupee  extra 
per  month. 

When  for  nearly  two  years  I  worked  as  Settlement 
Officer,  in  camp  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  Selim  and  I 
were  for  the  first  time  much  together.  He  would  come  and 
moon  about  my  tent  in  the  cool  of  the  evening,  and  had  the 
most  insinuating  way  of  placing  his  neck  gently  on  my 
shoulder,  and  keeping  it  there  whilst  I  petted  him  and 
talked  to  him  the  while.  I  can  well  believe  that  the  Arab- 
master  of  the  desert,  who  having  no  fixed  office  hours  and 
few  society  calls  has  much  time  to  devote  to  his  favourite 
steed,  can  thus  manage  to  get  quite  on  terms  with  him,  and 
make  him  nearly  as  companionable  as  a  dog.  Brave  old 
Selim  !  He  and  his  groom,  old  Kurban,  were  together  with 
me  just  over  twenty  years.  Both  were  getting  past  work. 
To  shoot  the  dear  old  horse  would  have  gone  to  my  heart. 
And  India  does  not  lend  itself  to  paddocks  for  old  favourites. 
The  difficulty  was  solved  for  me  in  a  merciful  manner  one 


158  CHANDAH 

cold  -  weather  morning  at  Ghazipur.  Old  Kurban,  who,  I 
fear  me,  had  been  gambling  in  the  bazaar,  returned  early 
to  find  his  beloved  companion  lying  dead  in  the  stall,  and 
howls  and  weeping  soon  aroused  the  whole  establishment. 
Selim  had  been  bitten  by  a  cobra.  He  probably  did  not 
suffer,  and  died  peacefully  in  his  sleep.  Old  Kurban  never 
got  over  his  loss.  Put  in  charge  of  a  new  waler,  he  treated  it 
with  contumely,  and  got  well  kicked  for  his  pains.  Then  he 
took  to  the  most  inferior  bazaar  liquor,  quarrelled  with  every 
one  save  myself,  whom  he  associated  with  Selim's  memory, 
and  in  about  a  year's  time  followed  his  beloved  companion 
and  friend  to  the  grave. 

Then  there  were  my  equally  beloved  books,  to  whom,  as 
"  companions  of  my  solitude,"  a  passing  tribute  must  also 
be  paid.  These  included  Prinsep's  '  Antiquities,'  and  ranged 
from  'Undine,'  'Sintram,'  and  'The  Initials,'  to  'Mr  Sponge's 
Sporting  Tour.'  The  presence  of  this  latter  gentleman  in 
camp  reminds  me  how  he  was,  in  former  years,  nearly  the 
undoing  of  another  young  civilian,  to  whom  it  happened 
after  this  wise. 

Among  the  intimates  of  my  sporting  cousin,  who  had 
introduced  to  me  my  first  tiger  and  secured  for  me  my 
dear  Selim,  was  one  Tomson,  a  civilian,  also  a  mighty 
hunter,  and  universal  favourite.  He  was  known  as  "  Black 
Tommy,"  in  distinction  to  a  red-headed  gentleman  in  the 
service  of  the  same  name,  whose  tastes  were  more  on  the 
lines  of  nuckshas,  as  they  are  called  (i.e.,  tabular  statements), 
than  tigers.  "Black  Tommy"  had  been  sent  to  a  very 
serious -minded  magistrate,  with  an  equally  serious  wife,  in 
the  idea  of  mitigating  his  somewhat  too  pronounced  sport- 
ing proclivities,  and  the  poor  young  man  had  a  real  dreary 
time  of  it.  It  was  now  the  cold  season,  in  which  he  had 
pictured  for  himself  pig  and  every  variety  of  jungle  produce. 
And  here  he  was  in  camp,  in  the  train  of  the  most  un- 
sporting of  masters,  in  a  district  which  boasted  of  little 
more  than  an  occasional  paddy- bird.  It  was  evident  that 
he    found    but    little    favour    with    either    the    lady    or    her 


BLACK  TOMMY  159 

husband,  and  he  resented  both  the  social  and  official  dis- 
cipline to  which  he  was  subjected.  But,  of  a  sudden, 
matters  improved,  and  he  was  astonished  to  find  himself 
bidden  to  the  not  very  hospitable  board  of  his  superior. 
"  My  dear,"  had  said  the  wife,  "  I  begin  to  think  that  our 
bad  opinion  of  this  young  man  may  not  have  been  quite 
just.  His  tent,  you  know,  is  near  mine,  and  last  night 
I  heard  him  say  to  his  bearer,  'Jo  khitab  hum  roz-roz 
partah  hon,  lao ' "  (which,  notwithstanding  the  bad  grammar, 
being  interpreted  means,  "  Bring  to  me  the  book  which  I 
daily  read").  "It  is  comforting,"  she  added,  "to  know  he 
is  not  entirely  frivolous,  and  to  think  he  sends  his  bearer 
to  bring  him  his  Bible  every  night  when  he  goes  to  bed." 
So  the  assistant  -  magistrate  was  bidden  to  luncheon,  or 
"tiffin"1  as  it  is  generally  termed  in  India.  The  feast  was 
of  the  skimpy  proportions  to  be  expected  of  this  serious 
and  frugal  pair.  But  in  the  entertainment  there  was  this 
advantage,  that  it  was  held  in  a  tent  with  a  stove,  and  the 
weather  being  very  wet  and  cold,  Tommy  was  glad  enough 
to  dry  himself  at  the  fire  and  escape  temporarily  from  his 
own  well  -  soaked  shelter.  He  so  far  ingratiated  himself 
during  the  scanty  meal  that,  the  rain  having  choked  off 
all  business  in  camp,  he  was  bidden  to  remain  by  the 
fireside  to  complete  his  drying,  and  to  stay  even  to  the 
tea-hour,  when  the  magistrate  would  improve  the  occasion 
by  reading  aloud  from  the  works  of  the  Rev.  DTsmal 
Howler,  that  eminent  divine  whose  writings  are  so  well 
known  to  his  many  admirers.  Tommy  gladly  curled  him- 
self up  before  the  stove,  and  having  exhausted  all  his  topics 
of  conversation,  asked  permission  to  send  for  his  bearer, 
to  whom,  being  duly  summoned,  was  repeated  the  formula, 
"  Bring  to  me  the  book  which  I  daily  read."  The  man 
soon  returned,  bearing  in  his  hand  a  volume  of  considerable 
proportions  with  a  bright  red  cover  on  which  were  em- 
blazoned a  hunting-crop,  a  fox's  brush,  and  various  other 
emblems  of  the  chase,  and  altogether   as   unlike   as   could 

1  See  ante,  p.  53. 


l60  CHANDAH 

possibly  be  imagined  to  the  family  Bible  so  hopefully  ex- 
pected. Poor  Tommy  unexpectedly  found  that  the  relations 
between  him  and  his  host  were  again  somewhat  strained, 
and  thought  it  desirable  to  retire  to  his  own  wet  tent,  and 
there  console  himself  with  the  company  of  Mr  Sponge, 
whose  well-known  sporting  tour  was  the  subject  of  his  daily 
attention.  Poor  Tommy  fared  badly  for  yet  another  space. 
He  almost  became  desperate,  and  nearly  sold  his  horses. 
But,  fortunately,  the  Governor  of  the  Province,  who  was  of 
the  same  serious  type  as  the  magistrate,  retired,  and  was 
succeeded  by  one  of  sporting  tendencies,  a  friend  of  Tommy's 
father.  This  one  had  some  sympathy  for  the  smart  young 
assistant  condemned  to  a  life  among  the  paddy-birds.  And 
when  the  fierce  hot  weather  had  dried  the  jungle  into  a 
sportsman's  paradise,  Tommy  found  himself  with  a  sym- 
pathetic magistrate  in  a  district  in  which  the  pig,  the  tiger, 
and  the  deer  were  a  never-ceasing  delight. 

When  I  left  Temple  to  take  up  work  in  the  districts  as 
a  Settlement  Officer,  I  had  to  provide  him  with  a  new 
assistant  secretary  and  private  secretary — no  easy  task.  I 
suggested  my  great  friend  Frank  Wyllie,1  who  had  been 
with  me  at  Haileybury  and  came  out  with  me  from  Trieste, 
and  who  was  then  in  Bombay.  Temple  approving  the  choice, 
Frank  duly  took  up  the  appointment.  But  his  health  was 
never  strong,  and  the  work  with  Temple  was  not  light. 
So,  to  the  great  regret  of  all,  Wyllie  left  the  Central 
Provinces  after  a  year's  work  there,  and  later  had,  on 
account  of  bad  health,  to  resign  the  service  and  retire  from 
India.  In  England  he  obtained  congenial  political  em- 
ployment, and  earned  golden  opinions  from  both  political 
parties.  He  remained  ever  my  valued  intimate  friend  until 
his  lamented  death,  which  occurred  a  year  and  a  half  ago, 
he  being,  with  Billy  Lyall,  Nugent  Daniell,2  and  myself, 
the  last  representatives  of  the  old  Haileybury  Club.  Wyllie 
was  succeeded  by  another  friend  of  mine,  Arthur  Bloomfield, 

1  Elder  brother  of  Sir  Curzon  Wyllie  ;  see  ante,  p.  8l. 

2  Since,  I  grieve  to  say,  dead. 


BRETHREN  OF  ST  FRANCOIS  DE  SALES        l6l 

then  an  officer  of  the  ist  Royals  at  Kamptee,  who  remained 
with  Temple  until  the  Chief  Commissioner  left  for  Hyder- 
abad as  Resident.  He  afterwards  joined  the  Central  Prov- 
inces Commission,  and  having  inherited  an  old  family 
property,  is  now  a  flourishing  squire  in  Suffolk,  who  never 
forgets  to  invite  me  to  his  pretty  Suffolk  home,  or  omits  to 
have  a  pleasant  talk  over  the  Nagpore  times  of  the  far 
gone-by. 

On  becoming  Settlement  Officer  I  had  to  set  up  an  office 
and  house  in  Nagpore,  where  the  work  of  preparing  the 
voluminous  documents  for  each  village  was  carried  out,  and 
where  all  the  staff  sought  refuge  in  the  rains.  Among  many 
pleasant  friends  of  those  days  I  could  number  several  of  the 
brethren  of  the  Order  of  St  Francois  de  Sales,  who  had 
their  headquarters  at  Kamptee,  the  neighbouring  military 
cantonment,  with  a  branch  at  Nagpore. 

Whenever  opportunity  offered,  I  always  sought  the  com- 
pany of  foreign  missionaries.  They  mixed  much  with  the 
people  and  collected  a  mass  of  information,  sometimes 
valuable,  often  curious,  but  not  always  of  the  most  trust- 
worthy quality.  They  saw  most  questions,  however,  from 
a  standpoint  different  from  that  of  the  official,  which  was 
an  advantage,  and  I  had,  moreover,  an  opportunity  of 
talking  French,  or  German,  or  Italian  with  them,  and  thus 
keeping  up  languages  in  a  manner  that  reading  alone  would 
not  ensure.  For  the  dear  brothers  of  St  Francois  de  Sales 
who  were  at  Nagpur  and  Kamptee  I  had  a  real  affection, 
and  I  flatter  myself  they  reciprocated  the  feeling  in  some 
measure.  They  were  grand  fellows,  and  entirely  devoted 
themselves  to  their  work,  worthy  of  their  great  founder, 
who,  besides  possessing  other  grand  qualities,  was  such  a 
gentleman.  India,  and  especially  Central  India,  fifty  years 
ago  was  very  different  from  what  it  is  now,  and  the  brother 
who  went  there  not  only  expatriated  himself  but  plunged  dur- 
ing his  tours  into  a  wild,  often  unhealthy,  almost  unknown, 
country.  They  seldom  remained  long  at  headquarters,  were 
real  pioneers  these  good  brothers,  like  the  Benedictines  who 

L 


l62  CHANDAH 

founded,  in  1074,  this  old  priory  from  which  I  am  writing. 
In  addition  to  religion,  the  Benedictines  taught  the  people 
all  crafts,  and  looked  after  the  temporal  as  well  as  the 
spiritual  welfare  of  the  flock.  Some  of  the  Nagpore  brothers 
possessed  real  kingcraft  and  were  born  administrators,  such 
as  Temple  would  gladly  have  enlisted  into  the  Commission 
of  the  Provinces.  Like  the  best  class  of  our  own  devoted 
missionaries,  they  lived  among  the  people  and  studied  them 
thoroughly  in  a  manner  which  the  married  missionaries, 
with  all  the  best  of  wills,  cannot  always  compass.  They 
made  the  most  marvellous  journeys  through  the  jungles  to 
out-of-the-way  places,  and  having  generally  some  knowledge 
of  medicine  and  a  small  stock  of  quinine,  worked  what  were 
regarded  as  marvellous  cures,  and  secured  for  themselves  a 
welcome  among  the  timid  jungle  folk.  One  of  them,  Father 
Bertrand,  was  great  at  bricks  and  mortar.  He  collected 
money  from  all  sides,  and  built  chapels  and  schools  in 
places  that  boasted  of  no  Protestant  church.  Following  a 
plan  he  had  noticed  in  some  ancient  native  structures,  he 
would  allow  no  wood  in  the  actual  building,  beams  being 
avoided  by  a  system  of  arches,  a  plan  since  adopted  by  some 
of  our  engineers.  Sometimes  in  the  most  out-of-the-way 
places  one  came  across  examples  of  his  handicraft,  where 
no  Protestant  missionary  had  attempted  to  explore. 

The  good  Fathers  wanted  to  start  a  farm  near  Nagpore 
for  their  native  converts :  I  interested  the  Government  in 
the  matter,  and  obtained  for  my  friends  a  good  stretch  of 
land  under  the  Waste  Land  Rules  just  issued.  I  helped  to 
start  the  colony,  and  was  even  called  in  to  shoot  a  heretic 
tiger  who  carried  off  two  of  the  recently  purchased  mission 
cattle.  Although  I  also  was  a  heretic,  all  this  was  counted 
to  me  for  righteousness,  and  stood  me  in  good  stead  later 
with  His  Holiness  and  the  Cardinals  when  my  wife  and  I 
went  on  a  visit  to  Rome. 

The  good  Fathers  lived  hideously  cheaply,  and  hardly 
allowed  themselves  the  necessaries  of  life,  whilst  even  in 
sickness  luxuries  were  quite  unknown.     I  had  made  friends 


DISCIPLINE   IN   THE    BAND  163 

with  a  young  priest,  who  helped  me  with  one  of  my 
hobbies,  the  Station  Band,  which,  like  the  Calcutta  Town 
Band,  I  had  recently  started  at  Nagpore.  Here,  instead 
of  having  to  deal  with  educated  Germans  as  in  Calcutta, 
I  had  a  scratch  team  of  Eurasians,  discharged  bandsmen 
from  native  regiments,  of  each  of  whom  it  might  truly  be 
said,  as  was  once  pronounced  of  a  very  high  European 
official,  that  he  had  all  the  appearance  of  an  Italian  organ- 
grinder,  with  the  morals  of  his  monkey.  These  men  lived 
with  their  families  in  some  old  barracks  I  had  obtained 
for  them,  and  the  presence  of  a  large  number  of  dusky 
beauties,  of  all  ages,  resulted  in  occasional  domestic  com- 
plications with  which  I  found  it  difficult  to  deal.  The  men 
were  all  Catholics,  and  it  suggested  itself  to  put  my  friend 
the  Priest  on  the  Band  Committee,  and  to  give  him  charge 
of  the  department  of  domestic  morals.  Accepting  the  post, 
he  carried  out  the  duties  with  marked  vigour  and  success. 
Instead  of  bringing  a  culprit  up  before  the  Band  Committee 
for  a  fine,  entailing  a  reduction  of  the  income  of  unoffend- 
ing members  of  the  family,  he  would  give  the  fellow  a  real 
sound  thrashing  with  the  stout  Penang-lawyer  cane  which 
he  always  carried  on  his  rounds.  And  the  men  accepted 
this  discipline  as  a  matter  of  course,  so  that  both  music 
and  morals  improved  and  flourished.  One  rainy  season 
my  poor  friend  took  terribly  ill,  and  the  surgeon  of  the 
cavalry  regiment,  who  happened  to  be  his  co-religionist, 
told  me  that  the  poor  fellow,  who  had  had  severe  fever, 
was  dying  from  weakness,  and  required  feeding  up  with 
strong  soup  and  port  wine.  He  suggested  that,  as  the 
young  Priest  and  I  were  friends,  I  should  take  the  invalid 
in  hand,  and  invite  him  to  stay  with  me  for  a  fortnight 
or  so.  I  was  rather  proud  in  those  days  of  my  cook  and 
my  bachelor  establishment,  and  immediately  hurried  off 
to  the  chapel  and  urged  my  friend  to  come  to  me  on 
a  visit.  Nothing,  however,  would  induce  him  to  accept 
my  invitation.  At  last  I  said  to  him,  "  Come,  we  know 
one     another     pretty    well  ;    tell    me     honestly    why    you 


164  CHANDAH 

won't  do  what  is  really  for  your  good,  and  what  the 
doctor  recommends  ? "  He  answered,  "  My  kind  friend, 
all  the  station  will  think  I  am  going  to  convert  you." 
"  Pardon  me,"  I  said,  "  the  whole  place  will  think  I  am 
going  to  convert  you ! "  The  idea  of  his  being  converted 
by  me  struck  him  as  being  so  comic  that,  laughing  heartily, 
he  gave  way,  and  came  on  a  long  visit,  which  did  him,  I 
am  glad  to  say,  some  temporary  good.  Later  he  died,  poor 
young  fellow,  from  jungle  fever  on  the  Godavery  river. 


i65 


CHAPTER   VIII. 

COTTON    COMMISSIONER. 

I866-I868. 

Appointed  Cotton  Commissioner — My  duties  with  the  trade — With  the 
cultivation — Difficulties  of  the  road -carriage — Cotton  delayed  at 
the  railway  stations— Lack  of  waggons — Bribes  to  station  people — 
Regulation  of  traffic  and  institution  of  cotton  yards — Become  Puss- 
in-Boots  on  the  line — European  firms  begin  to  come  up-country — 
Foreigners  and  steam  machinery  introduced — My  initial  success  in 
Bombay,  thanks  to  a  story — My  Bombay  friends — Little  Birdwood 
— Indian  '  Punch  ' — Charley  Watts-Russell — Dr  James  Wilson — 
Rev.  Mr  Stephen  Hislop — Temple  goes  to  Hyderabad  as  Resident 
— "The  Nagpore  Cinderella,"  by  Sir  Alfred  Lyall — Temple  and  the 
caricaturist — Ride  with  Temple  across  from  Akola  to  Hyderabad — 
The  Eastern  mandate,  "Prepare  ye  the  way  of  the  Lord" — The 
delights  of  the  320-mile  ride — Excellence  of  the  arrangements — 
My  ride  from  Oomrautee  to  Nagpore — Visits  to  Khangaon — A 
rotund  table  and  impossibility  of  "sitting  on  its  head,"  according 
to  Teutonic  ideas  —  Some  expensive  liqueur  brandy  —  Temple 
Finance  Minister — Lord  Lawrence  as  Viceroy — Am  summoned  to 
Simlah — Its  delights — Interview  with  Lord  Lawrence — His  great 
State  services — His  kindness  and  encouragement — I  find  my  Hilde- 
garde — Engaged  to  be  married — Lord  Lawrence  comes  up  to  con- 
gratulate us — -His  magnificent  present — Our  marriage — MacGregor 
as  my  best  man — His  distinguished  career — Marries  one  of  the 
bridesmaids — Sir  Henry  Durand — My  devotion  to  my  father-in-law 
— His  splendid  qualities. 

I  had  now  done  two  full  years'  work  as  a  Settlement  Officer, 
and  had  had  some  of  the  most  valuable  possible  experience 
of  district  life.  I  had  finished  the  Settlement  of  the  Wurdah 
district,  and  had  written  the  final  report  with  which  an 
officer  brings  the  work  to  a  conclusion.  In  Chandah  we 
were  well  forward,  and  I  had  secured  for  the  good  people 


l66  COTTON   COMMISSIONER 

of  Gurboree  their  Charta  of  Rights,  and  had  ensured  for 
the  other  deserving  cultivators  in  the  district  the  certainty 
of  their  claims  being  settled  on  the  same  equitable  lines. 
In  the  autumn  of  1866  I  learnt,  to  my  no  small  pleasure, 
that  I  had  been  selected  for  the  new  appointment  of  Cotton 
Commissioner  in  the  Central  Provinces  and  the  Berars,  to 
assist  in  the  many  questions  relating  to  the  interests  of 
the  trade  that  had  arisen  consequent  on  the  breaking  out 
of  the  civil  war  in  America,  and  the  distress  in  our  manu- 
facturing districts. 

This  was  not  only  a  new  and  important  staff  appointment, 
with  a  roving  commission  over  a  considerable  territory, 
but  it  was  very  much  to  my  taste,  as  making  me  Head  of 
a  Department,  and  bringing  me  in  contact  with  Bombay 
and  the  merchants,  British  and  foreign,  with  whom  I  had 
already  made  acquaintance  during  my  visits  with  Temple 
to  that  Presidency.  My  position  also  placed  me  in  com- 
munication with  the  markets,  both  at  home  and  on  the 
Continent,  and  brought  me  into  correspondence  with  some 
old  friends  and  some  new  political  allies.  I  had  virgin 
ground  to  work  upon,  and  it  would  be  my  own  fault  if  I 
did  not  make  the  new  office  a  success.  The  next  two  years 
were  about  the  busiest  of  my  life.  The  districts  lying 
around  Nagpore,  which  were  well  known  to  me,  Wurdah 
being  the  most  important,  were  those  producing  the  best 
and  the  largest  quantity  of  cotton  in  the  Central  Provinces. 
The  Berar  districts,  which  also  came  under  my  charge, 
lying  to  the  S.W.  and  along  the  line  of  the  new  railway, 
were  an  even  more  important  source  of  supply.  My  first 
duties  were  to  extend  and  improve  the  cultivation  in  order 
to  increase  the  supply ;  then  to  undertake  all  necessary- 
measures  to  assist  the  trade  in  getting  these  supplies  to 
the  coast  in  good  order  and  without  delay ;  to  sift  and 
report  on  the  many  demands  made  on  the  Government  in 
the  interest  of  the  trade ;  to  keep  in  touch  with  the 
merchants,  a  considerable  number  of  whom  of  all  nation- 
alities were  beginning  to  find  their  way  "up-country"  to 


MY    NEW   DUTIES  167 

tap  new  sources  of  supply ;  and  to  collect  and  publish,  for 
the  information  of  Government  and  the  trade,  reliable 
statistics  regarding  the  extent  of  cultivation,  the  prospects 
of  the  crop,  and  such  general  information  as  might  be 
acceptable  to  the  mercantile  community  in  India  and  the 
cotton  interests  at  home  and  abroad.  The  high  prices 
ruling  for  the  staple  had  more  influence  than  would  have 
had  ten  thousand  Cotton  Commissioners  in  extending  the 
cultivation.  The  improvement  of  the  plant  was  quite  a 
different  matter.  The  native  cultivator  considered  he  knew 
rather  more  about  his  crop  than  did  even  the  expert  Scotch 
gardeners  who  later  came  to  our  aid,  and  he  was  therefore 
not  over  -  anxious  to  be  taught.  I  fear  no  great  progress 
in  this  last  direction  at  any  time  was  made.  But  the 
change  of  seed,  which  was  carried  out  on  a  large  scale, 
undoubtedly  did  good.  My  chief  success  was  in  the  matter 
of  assisting  the  traffic  and  encouraging  and  aiding  the 
establishment  of  branch  European  firms  with  machinery 
for  cleaning  and  pressing  cotton  at  certain  points  in  the 
comparatively  remote  inland  districts. 

After  the  manner  of  my  great  master,  Temple,  I  rode  about 
everywhere  and  collected  what  information  I  could,  and 
in  due  time  wrote  and  published  a  big  report.  This  was  well 
received  in  India  and  England,  was  republished  as  a  Parlia- 
mentary paper,  and  had  the  honour  not  only  of  a  review,  but 
of  a  leading  article  also,  in  '  The  Times,'  and  of  equal  appre- 
ciation from  '  The  Manchester  Guardian '  and  other  news- 
papers. The  chief  difficulty  at  first  was  to  get  the  cotton 
to  the  railway  and  thence  to  Bombay,  and  in  decent  con- 
dition. In  those  days  the  Great  India  Peninsular  Railway 
was  not  open  beyond  Bhosawul.  The  unwieldy  loose  bags 
of  cotton  called  dokras  had  to  be  brought  great  distances 
in  country  carts,  over  bad  roads  and  often  unbridged 
streams.  The  result  was  that  the  cotton  suffered  in  transit, 
and  damp,  dust,  and  delay  much  affected  the  consign- 
ment before  it  reached  the  railway  line.  And  the  com- 
plaints from   Bombay  and   Manchester  were  loud  and  con- 


l68  COTTON    COMMISSIONER 

tinuous.  Nor  was  the  trouble  at  an  end  even  when  the 
carts,  after  perhaps  two  or  three  break-downs,  reached  at 
last  the  railway  stations.  Cotton  presses  were  still  unknown 
"  up-country."  The  unwieldy  bags  of  loose  cotton  took  up 
much  room  on  the  trucks.  The  rolling-stock  was  at  first 
insufficient,  with  the  result  that  at  certain  stations  thousands 
of  bags  of  cotton  would  be  detained  for  weeks,  even,  in  a 
serious  block.  The  Bombay  firms  that  had  purchased  the 
bags  in  the  villages,  would  naturally  be  anxious  to  get  their 
consignments  to  port  to  meet  the  market.  Their  native 
competitors  on  the  spot  sometimes  got  the  better  of  them. 
To  catch  the  market  it  was  often  worth  a  man's  while  to  pay 
a  large  sum  for  a  waggon  supplied  out  of  turn.  And  in  this 
process  some  station-masters  soon  made  small  fortunes.  My 
chief  efforts  were  at  first  devoted  to  remedy  these  evils,  and 
in  my  endeavours  I  was  heartily  seconded  by  several  friends 
on  the  staff  of  the  railway,  with  whom  I  worked  in  perfect 
harmony.  "  Government  Cotton  Yards  "  were  established  at 
most  stations.  Here  each  cart  in  order  of  arrival  received 
from  one  of  my  staff  a  ticket  with  a  machine-printed  number 
thereon,  and  according  to  which,  in  sequence,  the  consign- 
ments were  loaded  on  waggons  and  sent  down  to  Bombay. 
Constant  supervision  by  myself  and  the  district  officers 
ensured  the  system  being  worked  with  fairness,  whilst  a 
small  fee  levied  on  each  bag  paid  for  the  staff. 

I  lived  part  of  the  time  in  a  comfortable  railway-carriage 
supplied  to  me  by  the  company.  And  to  this  was  attached  a 
horse-box,  so  that  I  could,  whenever  necessary,  ride  off  to 
some  important  point  in  the  district  where  my  presence  was 
required.  In  those  days  I  was  known  to  the  railway  officials, 
merchants,  and  others  as  "  Puss-in-Boots,"  and  I  hope  I  acted 
up  to  my  sobriquet.  The  next  object  was  to  get  enterprising 
Europeans  to  establish  steam-presses  up-country,  and  so  by 
reducing  the  bulk  of  the  bags,  to  relieve  the  pressure  on  the 
waggon-supply.  And  in  the  course  of  my  tenure  the  progress 
of  the  trade  and  the  increase  of  the  number  of  steam-presses 
enabled  great  advances  to  be  made  in  this  respect,  so  that 


A   SUCCESSFUL   STORY  l6g 

a  clumsy  dokra  on  a  waggon  became  unknown,  its  place 
being  taken  by  a  neat  well-pressed  bale.  My  early  educa- 
tion abroad,  and  my  knowledge  of  foreign  languages,  helped 
me  much  with  the  German,  French,  and  occasional  Italian 
merchants  who  established  themselves  up-country,  and  pur- 
chased under  orders  from  Bombay.  And  I  had  the  gratifi- 
cation of  knowing,  from  the  many  testimonies  offered  to  me, 
that,  in  respect  to  my  keeping  up  satisfactory  communi- 
cations with  the  trade,  at  least,  my  endeavours  had  not  been 
unsuccessful.  I  had  occasionally  to  be  in  Bombay,  where 
the  firms  who  sent  representatives  into  the  cotton  districts 
had  their  headquarters,  and  a  good  part  of  my  time  was  now 
spent  in  the  places  which  were  springing  up  near  the  old 
native  cotton-markets,  and  where  European  firms  were  now 
erecting  cotton-cleaning  factories,  steam  packing-presses,  and 
were  even  building  houses  for  their  agents.  At  Khangaon, 
in  Berar,  the  chief  of  these  marts,  there  had  come  together 
quite  a  small  cosmopolitan  society,  German,  French,  and 
even  one  Italian,  representing  Bombay  firms,  besides  a  dozen 
or  so  of  our  own  countrymen.  There  was  even  an  embryo 
club,  and  a  special  British  magistrate  had  been  appointed 
to  the  little  place,  which  had  hardly  ever  before  seen  a 
European  visitor. 

I  believe  I  succeeded  in  establishing  at  an  early  stage  of 
my  office  no  mean  reputation  in  mercantile  circles  in  Bombay 
by  the  help  of  a  story  successfully  launched,  which  had  been 
current  in  Calcutta  in  my  early  days  there,  but  which,  owing 
to  the  absence  of  the  railway,  and  to  the  utterly  wretched 
state  of  communication  between  the  two  centres,  had  not 
reached  Bombay  before  I,  some  years  later,  carried  it  thither. 
As  I  am  under  no  small  obligations  to  this  story,  and  as  I 
believe,  moreover,  that  it  will  be  voted  good,  I  must  again, 
after  the  manner  of  Mr  Barlow,  "  now  proceed  to  relate." 

One  of  the  most  distinguished  men  of  my  time  in  India 
was  Sir  Ashley  Eden,  nephew  of  the  Governor- General, 
Lord  Auckland.  Eden  had  very  pronounced  red  hair.  He 
was  always  up-to-date,  and  was  generally  among  the  first  to 


170  COTTON    COMMISSIONER 

get  hold  of  anything  that  was  new.  At  the  time  of  which  I 
am  writing,  now  upwards  of  fifty  years  ago,  the  well-known 
red  pencil,  indispensable  to  the  office  of  to-day,  had  just 
arrived  in  India,  and  Eden,  of  course,  had  succeeded  in 
capturing  one  of  the  earliest  of  these  interesting  and  unknown 
specimens.  He  was  then  secretary  to  Mr  Dampier,  a  dry, 
amusing  old  fellow,  head  of  the  Board  of  Revenue.  A  mer- 
chant calling  on  Dampier  at  the  office  one  day  on  some 
question  connected  with  custom  duties,  the  chief  sent  a  note 
down  to  the  secretary,  inquiring  whether  the  orders  of 
Government  had  been  received  on  the  subject.  In  India  it 
is  necessary  to  make  all  such  communications  in  writing,  as 
a  native  would  probably  hopelessly  distort  any  verbal  mes- 
sage. In  his  answer  Eden  had  an  opportunity  of  airing  his 
new  acquisition,  and  scribbled  on  the  slip  of  paper  sent  him 
a  reply  in  red  pencil,  "  No  orders  from  Government  yet. 
(Signed)  A.  E."  To  old  Dampier,  who  was  quite  ignorant  of 
the  existence  of  the  new  pencil,  the  red  reply  came  as  a 
complete  surprise.  The  old  fellow,  after  having  held  the 
paper  close  up  to  his  nose  and  scrutinised  it  carefully,  handed 
it  on  to  his  visitor,  with  the  remark,  "  Confound  the  fellow, 
he's  been  scratching  his  head  with  the  pencil  I  " 

Years  afterwards,  that  story  stood  me  in  good  stead  in 
Bombay.  I  had  recently  been  appointed  Commissioner  of 
Commerce  with  the  Government  of  India,  and  had  to  inter- 
view the  merchants  there  on  several  questions  then  pending 
before  the  Viceroy.  I  was  anxious  to  get  on  with  them  all, 
and  to  make  as  good  an  impression  as  possible.  On  the  day 
after  my  arrival,  I  went  to  lunch  at  one  of  the  great  merchant- 
houses,  which  always  entertained  liberally  at  that  hour,  and 
where  leading  lawyers,  brokers,  and  passers  through  Bombay 
were  always  to  be  met  gathered  together.  My  friend,  the 
junior  partner,  was  not  at  lunch.  The  head  of  the  firm  said 
he  would  send  him  up  word  I  was  there,  and  scribbled  off  the 
conventional  note.  The  answer  came  down,  written  on  the 
note,  and  this  was  handed  over  to  me.  My  friend,  who  was 
noted  for  his  flaming  red  hair,  had  scrawled  on  the  slip  an 


MY   BOMBAY   FRIENDS  171 

answer  saying  he  would  be  down  as  soon  as  he  could  finish 
his  mail-letters.  As  good  luck  would  have  it,  the  answer 
was  written  in  red  pencil !  Remembering  the  story  of  old 
Dampier,  and  trusting  to  good  chance  that  it  had  not  per- 
meated to  Bombay,  I  carefully  scrutinised  the  paper,  and 
throwing  it  on  the  table,  remarked,  "  Confound  the  fellow, 
he's  been  scratching  his  head  with  the  pencil!"  This  sally 
was  received  with  immense  applause,  and  before  band-time 
that  evening  my  fame  as  a  wit  was  all  over  Bombay.  And  I 
learn  that  my  memory  is  enshrined  in  that  Presidency,  not  so 
much  on  account  of  what  I  succeeded  in  getting  done  for  the 
trade  whilst  Commissioner  of  Commerce,  but  for  that  pirated 
story  connected  with  that  happy  red  pencil  and  the  red- 
headed writer. 

In  those  days  in  Bombay  I  had  the  good  fortune  to  make 
several  valuable  friendships.  I  have  survived  many  of  those 
good  friends,  they  having  mostly  been  my  seniors.  But  one, 
I  am  thankful  to  say,  is  still  spared  to  us,  and  although  he 
must  be  my  senior,  I  am  rejoiced  to  hear  he  is  going  pretty 
strong  still,  certainly  so  far  as  intellect  and  interest  in  all 
that  is  worth  knowing  is  concerned.  This  is  George  Bird- 
wood,1  who  was  then  a  young  medical  man,  and  now  happily 
remains  to  us,  not  young  perhaps,  but  covered  with  honours. 
He  was  a  great  friend  of  Sir  Bartle  Frere's,  and  I  got  first 
to  know  him  at  Government  House.  We  became  friends  at 
once,  and  have  remained  firm  friends  ever  since.  Birdwood 
knew  everything,  and  was  ready  to  help  one  in  everything, 
and  certainly  helped  me  in  dozens  of  cases.  In  those  days, 
besides  being  ultra-scientific,  he  could,  alas !  be  occasionally 
frivolous.  And  he  did  a  great  deal  to  help  the  Indian  'Punch' 
through  its  difficulties  when  Terry,  poor  Charley  Watts- 
Russell,  and  I  were  interested  in  that  defunct  periodical. 
And  though  he  has  been  long  separated  from  me  by  great 
distances,  we  have  ever  kept  up  a  friendship  which  is  one  of 
my  pleasantest  recollections  of  those  very  pleasant  days. 

Another  good  friend,  but  long  since  dead,  for  he  was  an 

1  Sir  George  Birdwood,  K.C.I.E.,  C.S.I.,  M.D.,  &c. 


172  COTTON   COMMISSIONER 

old  man  when  first  I  got  to  know  him,  now  nearly  fifty  years 
ago,  was  Dr  James  Wilson,  the  well-known  Scotch  mission- 
ary, Vice-Chancellor  of  the  University  of  Bombay.  He  and 
the  Rev.  Stephen  Hislop,  whose  tragic  death  has  already 
been  alluded  to,  used  to  encourage  me  as  a  young  man  in  my 
antiquarian  hobbies,  and  gave  me  much  support  when  we 
tried  to  start  an  Antiquarian  Society  in  the  Central  Provinces. 
We  did  succeed  in  just  starting  it,  but  could  not  succeed  in 
keeping  it  alive  for  any  time.  Such  local  societies  are  seldom 
a  success.  For  a  man  who  writes  a  good  paper  naturally 
wishes  to  place  it  before  the  largest  and  best  scientific 
audience,  and  this  is  not  to  be  found  in  local  and  newly 
formed  societies. 

Not  long  after  my  appointment  as  Cotton  Commissioner, 
Temple  was,  to  the  surprise  of  many  of  us,  suddenly  invited 
to  go  as  Resident  to  Hyderabad.  Temple's  great  friend  and 
master  had  recently  succeeded  as  Viceroy,  on  the  death  of 
Lord  Elgin  during  a  journey  in  the  Himalayas,  and  we  all 
realised  that  there  must  be  some  urgent  State  reason  for  the 
change.  And  such,  of  course,  was  the  case.  Hyderabad 
was  a  specially  important  and  difficult  charge,  and  Sir  John 
Lawrence  required  there  at  the  moment  a  strong  man  in 
whom  he  had  full  confidence.  And  none  suited  the  post 
better  than  his  trusted  pupil  and  lieutenant,  who  had  served 
him  so  satisfactorily  in  the  Punjab.  In  those  days  I  amused 
myself,  as  already  noticed,  with  my  dear  friend  Charley 
Watts- Russell,  who  was  then  in  Bombay,  and  with  Terry 
and  several  others,  in  trying  to  keep  agoing  the  Indian 
'  Punch,'  a  would-be  comic  paper  that  had  not  a  very  long 
or  prosperous  existence.  Alfred  Lyall,  with  his  delightful 
versatile  talent,  sometimes  helped  us,  and  his  contributions 
were  of  immense  value  and  assistance.  When  Temple  left 
Nagpore  for  Hyderabad,  Lyall  sent  me  the  following  verses, 
which,  under  the  name  of  "The  Nagpore  Cinderella,"  appeared 
in  the  Indian  '  Punch '  of  the  day.  They  were  immensely 
appreciated  by  us  all  at  the  time,  and  have  more  than  once 
appeared  in  Indian  newspapers,  though  they  are  not  included 


THE  NAGPOKE  CINDERELLA  173 

in  Lyall's  '  Verses  Written  in  India,'  in  which,  to  my'mind, 
they  are  well  deserving  of  a  place.  They  are  now  republished 
here  with  Sir  Alfred  Lyall's  permission. 

THE     NAGPORE     CINDERELLA. 

For  many  a  year,  in  times  of  old, 

Dame  India's  wild,  neglected  daughter, 
She  dwelt  in  the  Central  forest  wold, 

A  damsel  fair,  but  no  one  sought  her. 
To  North  and  South,  to  East  and  West, 

Settled  each  rich  and  prospering  sister. 
They  lived  in  towns,  and  danced,  and  dressed ; 

But  Cinderella — no  one  missed  her. 

Where  foaming  o'er  her  curb  of  stone 

Nerbudda  leaps,  and  leads  her  fountains, 
Or  deep  in  southern  forest  lone 

Where  far  Godaveri  bathes  the  mountains, 
She  wandered  here,  she  lingered  there, 

She  knew  no  books,  she  wore  no  bodice ; 
With  leaf  and  flower  she  decked  her  hair — 

A  simple  nymph,  a  rustic  goddess. 

Sometimes  through  moonlit  highland  glade, 

Like  Grecian  hamadryad  flitting, 
Or  by  the  creaming  cool  cascade, 

A  naiad  in  the  noon-day  sitting. 
And  oft,  when  thus  the  savage  wight 

The  lonely  girl  perchance  had  seen,  he 
Adored  the  huntress  of  the  night, 

Or  scattered  flowers  to  fair  Undine. 

So  passed  the  years.     But  as  she  grew, 

And  lonely  winters,  lingering,  passed  her, 
The  wandering  Gondh  came  near  to  woo, 

And  him  she  took  for  lord  and  master. 
He  gave  her  of  the  wild  bee's  comb, 

He  showed  her  berries,  sweet  and  sour, 
He  thatched  with  grass  her  woodland  home, 

And  pressed  for  wine  the  mhowah  flower. 

She  tended  cows,  she  planted  corn  ; 

The  dame  grew  proud  as  she  grew  fatter ; 
She  left  the  honest  Gondh  in  scorn, 

And  joined  a  freebooting  Mahratta. 


174  COTTON    COMMISSIONER 

'Twas  nothing  but  a  greedy  clown, 

Who  knew  no  manners,  arts,  nor  letters. 

He  took  her  cash,  and  built  a  town  j 
But  lost  it,  quarrelling  with  his  betters. 


PART    II. 

Behold  our  rustic  housewife's  fate  ! 

Unkempt,  uncouth,  unused  to  dangers, 
She  weds  a  smart,  outlandish  mate, 

And  lives  amongst  sarcastic  strangers. 
Her  foreign  husband's  kind  enough, 

But  finds  she  wants  some  schooling  sadly ; 
Her  talk  and  garb  are  rather  rough, 

And  then  her  lands  are  managed  badly. 

No  time  is  lost.     He  takes  command, 

The  lazy  household  now  must  waken. 
Full  soon  they  feel  the  master's  hand  : 

His  wife  herself  is  smartly  shaken. 
For  she  must  learn  to  write  and  spell ; 

To  mend  her  manners  broad  and  homely ; 
To  sweep  her  house,  and  scrub  it  well ; 

To  brush  her  hair,  and  keep  it  comely. 

For  ox  and  cart  he  will  not  wait — 

The  dame  must  ride  !     A  horse  is  saddled. 
They  gallop  o'er  the  whole  estate  : 

Her  breath  is  gone,  her  brain  is  addled. 
He  leaves  the  house,  and  lives  in  tents ; 

He  travels  by  unheard-of  stages  ; 
He  raises  all  the  farmers'  rents 

(But  then  he  raised  the  labourers'  wages). 

He  rattles  o'er  the  miry  ruts ; 

He  rates  at  every  loutish  farmer ; 
He  pokes  among  the  squalid  huts, 

Declaring  dung  and  dirt  will  harm  her ! 
But  she  must  see  the  outer  world, 

To  get  her  mind  the  proper  form  in — 
So  open  all  her  doors  are  whirled, 

He  gives  a  regular  house-warming  ! 

From  North  and  South,  from  either  coast, 
At  roads  and  inns  profoundly  swearing, 

The  neighbours  come,  their  sanguine  host 
Presents  his  wife  confused  and  staring. 


THE  NAGPORE  CINDERELLA  175 

He  welcomes  to  her  drawing-room 

Each  random  guest  who  sends  his  card  in, 

He  works  her  spindle,  vaunts  her  loom, 

And  walks  them  round  the  farm  and  garden. 

Full  loyally  he  plays  his  part ; 

Praises  his  wife,  her  dress,  her  trinkets, 
Her  pots  and  pans  are  works  of  art, 

So  are  her  tables  !     Who  would  think  it  ? 
He  bids  his  neighbours  show  their  wares ; 

He  challenges  to  competition ; 
He  beats  a  drum,  and  holds  a  fair — 

Was  ever  such  an  Exhibition  ! 

Her  fashionable  sisters  come, 

With  smiles  and  winks,  and  "  Did  you  ever  ? 
Dear  Cinderella's  looking  glum  ; 

I'm  sure  her  husband  need  be  clever  ! 
I'm  told  he  makes  her  wash  and  dress, 

And  drags  her  out  to  see  society. 
At  home  she  lives  in  nasty  mess, 

And  scandalises  all  propriety !  " 

But,  spite  of  sloth,  of  slush,  and  sneers 

From  witty  folks  and  sisters  loving, 
Her  husband  gaily  perseveres — 

The  land  and  lady  both  improving. 
Till  comes  a  shock  which  blasts  all  hopes, 

On  which  no  virtuous  dame  could  reckon — 
With  thee  her  gifted  spouse  elopes, 

Unruly  Nautch-girl  of  the  Deccan  ! ! 

Few  can  fail  to  appreciate  the  poetry  of  the  opening 
verses.  It  would  indeed  be  difficult  to  find  lines  more 
beautiful  and  graceful  than  those  describing  the  wild  scenery 
of  the  Central  Provinces,  followed  by  the  faithful  sketch 
of  the  vicissitudes  of  the  old  Nagpore  Province  under  the 
rule,  first  of  the  Gondh,  and  then  of  the  Mahratta.  Part  II. 
is  in  a  different  vein.  It  is  to  be  remembered  that  the 
sketch  was  written  for  the  Indian  '  Punch,'  and  had  there- 
fore to  be  made  what  the  Bengali  gentleman  described  as 
"jokative."  Still  it  would  be  impossible  to  record  more 
faithfully  in  a  small  compass  Temple's  doings  during  his 
five   years'  tenure   of  the   Central   Provinces,  and   its   only 


176  COTTON    COMMISSIONER 

rival  in  accuracy  and  conciseness  is  perhaps  the  monograph 
of  the  American  Admiral  on  Morocco,  recorded  in  chapter 
xii.  of  these  "  Memories."  How  Temple,  on  taking  charge, 
shook  up  the  old-fashioned  staff,  set  them  all  to  work,  and 
then  scampering  over  the  Provinces  introduced  every  sort 
of  reform  in  the  shape  of  education,  sanitation,  and  land- 
revenue  assessment,  is  sketched  to  the  life.  And  it  is  still 
gratefully  remembered  by  some,  that  when  the  land-revenue 
was  raised,  the  salaries  of  the  hard-worked  staff  were  raised 
also.  The  proposal  to  hold  an  Exhibition  at  Nagpore  was 
vigorously  attacked  by  Temple's  many  detractors,  but,  as 
noticed  in  a  former  chapter,  the  scheme  was  successfully 
carried  through  in  the  teeth  of  very  serious  opposition.  To 
my  mind,  the  happiest  hit  in  the  whole  of  this  most  clever 
skit  is  Temple's  desertion  of  the  humdrum  Central  Pro- 
vinces, and  his  elopement  with  the  "  unruly  Nautch-girl  of 
the  Deccan."  Those  who  only  know  the  important  and 
well  -  administered  State  of  Hyderabad  of  the  present  day 
may  hardly  recognise  her  garbed  in  the  above  profane  cos- 
tume. But  half  a  century  ago  the  city  of  Hyderabad  was 
an  Alsatia  that  attracted  many  of  the  most  turbulent  and 
desperate  characters  from  all  parts  of  India.  And,  in  the 
condition  of  the  State  itself,  there  was  much  requiring  the 
careful  attention  of  the  Supreme  Government.  Hence  the 
selection  of  Temple  for  the  important  post  of  Resident,  and 
his  transfer  from  Nagpore  before  his  important  work  there 
was  fully  completed. 

"The  Nagpore  Cinderella,"  when  published,  was  accom- 
panied by  some  clever  sketches  by  Terry,  the  editor  of  the 
Indian  '  Punch,'  revealing  Temple  in  several  amusing  situa- 
tions. In  face  and  feature,  form  and  figure,  Temple  lent 
himself  readily  to  the  caricaturist,  and  during  his  time  in 
Parliament  he  was  frequently  presented  to  the  British  public 
by  Toby,  M.P.,  in  his  delightful  sketches,  published  in  the 
pages  of  Mr  Punch.  I  myself  had  a  pernicious  habit  of 
caricaturing  in  years  when  I  was  younger.  One  day  during 
the  famine,  in   Lord  Northbrook's  time,  I   was   summoned 


TEMPLE   AND   THE    CARICATURIST  177 

to  attend  the  meeting  of  the  Supreme  Council  in  connection 
with  some  question  relating  to  transport,  for  which  I  was 
then  Special  Commissioner.  I  found  myself  seated  next  to 
Sir  John  Strachey  and  opposite  to  Temple.  As  the  pro- 
ceedings dragged  somewhat,  my  hand  strayed  to  the  blue 
pencil  placed  by  my  side,  and  I  commenced,  half- uncon- 
sciously, to  sketch  Temple's  well  -  known  features  on  the 
sheet  of  paper  spread  in  front  of  me,  and  destined  for  the 
recording  of  important  points  in  the  discussions.  Suddenly 
Strachey  swooped  down  on  the  sketch,  and  annexing  it, 
folded  it  up  and  placed  it  in  his  pocket.  When  we  came  out 
of  Council  he  produced  it  and  showed  it  to  Sir  James  Fitz- 
James  Stephen,  a  very  intimate  friend  of  mine.  Stephen 
inspected  it  carefully,  and  drawing  his  burly  figure  up  to 
its  full  height,  he,  with  a  twinkle  in  his  eye,  pronounced 
in  his  deep  sonorous  tones,  and  in  an  amusingly  melo- 
dramatic manner,  "  A  man  who  could  caricature  Sir  Richard 
Temple  would  strike  a  woman." 

Temple,  ever  the  most  good-natured  of  men,  but  little 
resented  the  incessant  gibes  of  the  caricaturist.  Indeed  he 
used  to  cut  out  the  sketches  of  himself  that  periodically 
appeared,  and  a  book  full  of  these  is  to  be  seen  at  his 
beautiful  old  family  seat  in  Worcestershire,  where  it  finds 
a  place  among  his  many  other  collections  to  amuse  and 
instruct  his  successors  and  their  friends  when  on  a  visit 
to  the  Nash. 

With  Temple  at  Hyderabad  I  had  still  official  dealings, 
as  being  Cotton  Commissioner  of  the  Berars,  a  part  of  the 
Hyderabad  territory  then  administered  by  our  Government, 
I  came  under  his  orders.  It  was  after  one  of  his  inspec- 
tions of  the  Assigned  Province  that  I  made  with  him  a 
memorable  ride,  and  had  the  advantage  of  seeing  that  most 
interesting  of  native  cities,  Hyderabad.  I  met  him  at 
Akola,  in  Berar.  He  had  determined  to  ride  from  thence  on 
his  return  to  Hyderabad,  and  careful  arrangements  had 
been  made  for  the  journey  of  the  great  man.  At  the  last 
moment  his  Secretary  went  down  with  fever,  so  I  volunteered 

M 


178  COTTON    COMMISSIONER 

to  attend  in  his  place.  I  rode  my  own  and  then  the  Secre- 
tary's horses  as  far  as  they  would  go,  and  later  depended  for 
a  mount  on  the  escort  of  the  Hyderabad  contingent  stationed 
at  each  stage.  The  journey  was  done  in  the  greatest  com- 
fort. It  was  at  the  commencement  of  the  glorious  cold 
weather,  when  the  days  were  neither  too  short  nor  too  hot. 
There  was  a  friendly  nip  in  the  air  of  a  morning  which 
both  man  and  beast  appreciated.  The  distance  was  over 
three  hundred  miles.  We  did  the  journey  in  five  days, 
which  gives  a  daily  distance  of  over  sixty  miles.  This  may 
appear  tall.  But  we  travelled  under  the  most  favourable 
conditions.  It  has  been  pointed  out  before  now  that  the 
words  of  the  Gospel,  "  Prepare  ye  the  way  of  the  Lord,  make 
His  paths  straight,"  are  the  text  of  the  order  always  issued 
in  the  East  whenever  a  great  man  is  on  his  travels.  And 
these  were  the  instructions  issued  and  duly  carried  out 
for  the  Resident's  journey  through  the  Hyderabad  territory. 
The  roads  were  mostly  what  the  Americans  call  "  dirt  roads," 
— tracks  leading  from  village  to  village,  not  macadamised,  but 
in  the  Rotten  Row  style,  dear  to  the  horses'  feet.  The  track 
had  been  carefully  smoothed  from  one  end  of  our  ride  to 
the  other.  At  any  unbridged  stream  or  dry  water-course 
a  temporary  crossing  had  been  rigged  up,  either  a  rough 
bridge  or  some  other  arrangement  with  fascines  and  the 
like.  Wherever  doubtful,  the  road  had  been  marked  out 
with  stones  dabbed  with  whitewash,  which  could  be  seen 
in  the  dark,  or,  where  stones  failed,  by  inverted  gharrahs, 
or  earthenware  pots,  all  also  whitewashed,  to  serve  as  land- 
marks. The  work  had  been  distributed  among  the  villages 
along  the  route,  and  carried  out  by  the  local  officials  by 
the  express  command  of  the  Nizam,  who  was  particularly 
anxious  that  the  Resident  should  be  favourably  impressed 
with  the  arrangements  of  his  officials.  We  would  ride  the 
longer  half  of  the  journey  in  the  delightful  morning  air,  and 
with  horses  every  eight  or  ten  miles  it  was  not  difficult  to 
cover  thirty  or  forty  miles  before  breakfast.  Then  came 
a  comfortable  half-way  camp,  and  bath  and  breakfast,  so 


A    PLEASANT    RIDE  179 

that  we  were  quite  ready  for  a  further  canter  of  twenty 
or  twenty-five  miles  in  the  afternoon.  There  was  a  camp 
with  every  comfort,  and  an  excellent  dinner  at  the  end  of 
the  day's  march.  All  the  Nizam's  officials  attended  and 
met  the  Resident  as  he  entered  their  charges,  and  saw  the 
arrangements  were  in  order.  And  all  these  were  carried 
out  to  perfection,  so  much  so  that  after  a  brush-up  just 
outside  cantonment,  Temple,  who  was  not  above  a  little 
effect,  was  able  at  the  close  of  the  fifth  day's  march  to  canter 
up  with  his  escort  to  the  grand-stand  on  the  Mol-Ali  race- 
course just  as  the  bell  was  ringing  for  the  second  race. 
He  answered  the  General's  greeting  with,  "Oh,  I've  just 
ridden  in  with  '  Kinnack  '  "  1  (as  he  would  always  provokingly 
call  me)  "  from  Akola,"  as  if  he  had  come  in  from  the 
Residency  of  Bolarum,  some  five  miles  off,  instead  of  a 
320 -miles  ride  from  distant  Berar !  There  was  little  merit 
in  making  the  ride  under  such  perfect  conditions  of  weather 
and  management.  The  difficulty  lay  in  making  the  arrange- 
ments, and  these,  as  stated,  had  been  carefully  thought  out 
by  the  Secretary  and  the  Nizam's  people  weeks  beforehand. 
Temple  had  several  of  his  own  horses  laid  out  at  either 
end,  and  the  officers  of  the  Hyderabad  contingent  helped 
him  with  mounts.  I  had  my  three  horses  with  me,  as  in 
those  days  I  was  always  allowed  to  take  horses  about  by 
train  when  necessary.  Of  course  these  did  not  go  very  far. 
But  I  had,  as  already  explained,  also  the  Secretary's  horses, 
and  those  of  the  escort  marked  out  for  his  use. 

My  longest  ride,  in  one  day,  was  from  Oomrautee,  in 
Berar,  to  Nagpore.  I  had  been  on  leave  in  Bombay,  and 
had  suddenly  to  return,   on  account  of  some  urgent  work. 

1  Few  of  the  family,  I  fear  me,  had  any  special  affection  for  the  foreign  surname 
of  Carnac  which  my  grandfather  had  superadded  to  our  ancient  East -Anglian 
patronymic  of  Rivett.  It  was  related  of  my  youngest  brother  that,  one  day  in  class 
at  Harrow,  the  master  called  to  him  twice.  As  my  brother  took  no  notice  of  the 
summons,  the  master,  going  up  to  him  angrily,  said,  "  I  called  to  you  twice  by 
name;  what  mean  you  by  not  answering?"  "I  did  not  hear  you,  sir,"  says 
the  youth.  "Nonsense,"  replies  the  master,  "I  distinctly  called  out  'Carnac' 
twice."  "Oh,  I  beg  your  pardon,  sir,"  answers  the  cheeky  youngster,  "you  see 
■*  Carnac '  is  not  my  name  !  " 


l8o  COTTON    COMMISSIONER 

The  railway  was  not  open  so  far,  but  I  was  able  to  get  to 
Oomrautee  on  the  contractors'  engine.  All  along  the  line 
were  the  contractors'  European  assistants,  each  one  of  whom 
had  ponies  for  his  work.  The  contractors,  who  were  my 
good  friends,  sent  word  along  the  line  to  lay  out  mounts 
for  me  from  end  to  end.  And  a  curious  lot  were  those 
horses  and  ponies !  I  had  a  hot  ride  throughout  the  day, 
and  ought  to  have  finished  the  120  miles  by  dinner-time. 
But,  late  in  the  afternoon,  one  of  the  horses  foundered,  and 
I  had  to  walk  several  miles  on  foot.  Then  night  came  on, 
and  I  could  not  get  along  fast.  I  did  not  reach  the  Resid- 
ency until  after  midnight,  and  I  then  thoroughly  enjoyed  a 
bottle  of  champagne  and  my  comfortable  bed.  And  in  such 
good  condition  was  one  in  those  days,  that  I  did  not  feel 
distressed  the  next  morning,  and  got  to  work  in  due  course 
cheerily  enough. 

During  my  stays  at  Khangaon  I  was  always  in  cordial 
communication  with  my  several  German  friends  there,  and 
I  was  generally  accompanied  by  my  assistant,  who  was 
really  my  secretary,  Mr  Alexander  Dunlop,  son  of  the  Chair- 
man of  the  Glasgow  Chamber  of  Commerce,  whom,  as  will 
be  related  later,  I  was  able  to  start  on  a  career  which  has 
proved  of  the  greatest  value  to  the  Hyderabad  Government 
and  credit  to  himself.  One  season,  as  the  heat  in  tents  was 
monumental,  I  proposed  to  a  little  German  merchant,  who 
was  installed  in  a  new  house  built  for  him  by  his  firm  at 
Khangaon,  that  he  should  let  my  secretary  and  myself 
"  chum "  with  him  during  the  weeks  we  should  have  to 
spend  at  the  market,  and  occupy  some  of  his  available 
spare  room.  To  this  he  at  once  good-naturedly  assented. 
We  found,  to  our  amusement,  that  his  dining-room  had 
been  furnished  appropriately,  according  to  Continental  ideas, 
with  a  large  long  table,  such  as  is  to  be  seen  in  a  hotel 
abroad,  and  capable  of  dining  about  eighteen  people.  At 
this  we  commenced  to  take  our  meals,  seated  at  one  end, 
which  was  garnished  with  a  scrap  of  tablecloth,  the  little 
man    seated    at    the    top,    and   we    flanking   him   on    either 


A   ROTUND   TABLE  l8l 

side.  This  long  table,  with  the  absence  of  cloth  during 
three-quarters  of  its  length,  was  too  much  after  a  short 
time  for  our  feelings.  So  I  propounded  to  the  little  man 
that  among  our  camp-equipage  was  an  inviting  small  round 
table,  appropriate  to  his  tablecloths,  and  capable  of  seating 
four  or  five  people.  And  I  begged  him  to  adopt  it  in 
preference  to  the  elongated  parallelogram  of  the  dining- 
room.  He  assented,  and  at  this  small  table  we  sat  through 
our  dinner  that  evening,  our  host  the  while  not  appearing 
to  be  quite  at  his  ease.  With  the  morning  came  the  ex- 
planation. We  had  again  to  sit  for  our  early  tea  at  the 
long  table,  which  had  duly  been  replaced,  and  which  might 
have  accommodated  sixteen  other  persons.  That  "  the  rotund 
table  should  remain,"  said  the  little  man,  "that  was  of  all 
necessity  impossible.  For  from  its  constitution  it  was  im- 
possible that  any  one  person  could  sit  on  its  head.  And 
if  that  person  did  not  sit  on  its  head,  then  how  could  any 
other  person  understand  that  that  person,  and  not  another 
person,  was  the  head  of  the  house  ?  "  Our  little  friend's 
knowledge  of  English  was  purely  elementary.  But  he  al- 
ways insisted  on  conversing  with  us  in  that  language,  using 
us,  as  it  seemed,  as  one  might  a  strop,  to  give  an  edge  to 
his  much-desired  knowledge  of  our  tongue.  There  was  no 
shaking  him  in  his  resolve,  and  in  what  he  considered  his 
duty  to  his  firm  as  representing  them  in  a  foreign  land.  No 
suggestion,  even  that  such  an  important  a  person  as  King 
Arthur  had  tolerated  a  "  rotund  "  table,  had  any  effect.  He 
stuck  to  the  parallelogram,  and  duly  "sat  on  its  head"  during 
all  the  rest  of  our  stay,  and  presumably  for  ever  afterwards. 

In  justice  to  this  worthy  little  Teuton,  be  it  recorded  that 
his  view  regarding  the  head  of  the  table  must  be  more 
deeply  ingrained  in  foreign  etiquette  than  occurred  to  me 
at  the  time  that  I  ridiculed  his  insistence.  Recently  I 
read  an  account  of  the  flight  of  the  French  King  after  the 
Hundred  Days,  and  how  the  poor  man  was  more  concerned 
at  his  favourite  old  slippers  having  been  left  behind  in  the 
hurry  of  the  flight  than  at  the  loss  of  his  crown  and  throne. 


l82  COTTON    COMMISSIONER 

"Ah,  monseigneur,"  said  he  pathetically  to  a  courtier  who 
had  not  forsaken  him,  "  you  are  young,  and  do  not  know 
the  comfort  of  an  old  pair  of  slippers,  and  how  indispensable 
they  become  to  one."  But  my  story  relates  to  a  later  part 
of  the  day's  operations,  when  dinner  had  been  laid  for  the 
royal  party  in  the  little  Belgian  inn  to  which  they  had 
escaped,  and  when  it  was  discovered,  to  the  consternation 
of  all  present,  that  the  dinner  had  been  placed  on  a 
"rotund"  table.  Hungry  as  they  all  were,  etiquette  de- 
manded that  the  dinner  should  be  immediately  removed, 
and  no  square  table  being  available,  the  devoted  courtiers 
drew  their  swords  and  laboriously  hacked  that  table  into 
a  rough  oblong,  so  that  eventually  His  Majesty  was  able 
to  sit  "  on  the  head  of  that  table,"  and  the  honour  of  the 
French  crown  was,  for  the  time,  rescued  from  indignity. 

One  more  story  and  I  must  leave  Khangaon  and  return 
to  my  headquarters.  During  the  wild  days  of  the  cotton 
famine  I  was  dining  with  the  French  assistant  of  a  Havre 
firm  to  meet  his  head  partner,  who  had  come  up  on  a  visit 
from  Bombay.  The  visitor  produced  some  excellent  brandy 
he  had  brought  with  him,  and  of  which  the  firm  had  recently 
received  a  large  consignment.  It  was,  however,  he  com- 
plained, a  drug  in  the  market,  and  none  had  been  sold. 
"Oh,"  said  the  assistant,  "it  is  the  price  that  is  against 
it."  His  principal  replied  that  my  friend  was  quite  mis- 
taken, as,  considering  the  high  quality  of  the  spirit,  the 
price  was  far  from  immoderate.  "What  I  mean,"  replied 
the  astute  assistant,  "  is  that  the  price  is  far  too  ordinary 
and  unattractive  to  suit  the  present  extravagant  state  of 
ideas  in  Bombay.  Increase  the  price  fourfold  and  await 
results."  This  was,  to  our  amusement,  done  soon  after- 
wards, and  a  fortnight  later  the  principal,  in  sending  his 
assistant  a  dozen-case  of  the  brandy  as  a  present,  thanked 
him  for  his  suggestion,  and  said  that  this  was  the  last  of 
the  venture,  the  whole  consignment  having  been  rapidly 
bought  up  at  the  increased  price.  And  visiting  Bombay 
ten    days    later,    and   dining   there   with   a   big-wig,    I   was 


AD  MO  NT  EM  1 83 

invited   to   taste    some   of  X &    Co.'s    celebrated  very 

expensive    liqueur  brandy.     "  Costs    Rs. a  bottle,   you 

know!  " 

In  the  meantime  I  was  busy  in  considering  and  represent- 
ing the  requirements  of  the  cotton  trade.  My  office  was 
inundated  with  applications  for  the  improvement  in  com- 
munication by  railway,  road,  post,  and  telegraph.  And  all 
necessary  measures  in  this  respect  were  reported  by  me  to 
Government,  and  invariably  received  prompt  attention,  and 
the  Government  more  than  once  acknowledged  that  my 
action  had  saved  them  from  the  continued  complaints  that 
formerly  poured  in  upon  the  Secretariat.  Temple,  under 
whom  I  had  served  in  the  Central  Provinces,  and  later  in 
Berar,  had  recently  gone  up  yet  a  step  higher,  and  had 
been  appointed  Finance  Minister  under  Lord  Lawrence, 
who,  as  mentioned,  had  succeeded  Lord  Elgin  as  Viceroy. 
My  constant  representations  that  this  scheme  and  the  other 
were  necessary  for  the  development  of  the  trade,  and  that 
such  and  such  a  grant  was  urgently  required  for  the  pur- 
pose, made  me  well  known  to  the  Financial  Department, 
and  in  the  autumn  of  1868,  when  work  was  slack  in  the 
districts,  the  Viceroy,  to  my  delight,  summoned  me  to 
Simlah  to  explain  personally  one  or  two  schemes  that  were 
being  pressed  by  me  on  the  attention  of  Government.  I 
knew  the  Bombay  hill-stations,  thanks  to  the  hospitality 
of  my  most  excellent  friends,  Sir  Bartle  and  Lady  Frere. 
But  I  had  never  seen  the  Himalayas  or  the  great  Governor- 
General,  for  whom,  as  a  member  of  the  service,  I  could  not 
but  have  a  profound  admiration.  After  knocking  about 
during  the  whole  of  the  hot  weather  on  the  railway-line 
and  adjacent  districts,  living  in  one's  riding-breeches  and 
boots,  the  sudden  change  to  a  cool  climate  and  civilisa- 
tion was  as  a  delightful  dream.  In  those  days  a  part  of 
the  journey  had  to  be  made  in  the  dak-gharry,  and  the  last 
fifty  miles  into  Simlah  up  and  down  hill  was  done  on  little 
hill-ponies  posted  in  relays.  Riding  into  Simlah  in  the 
afternoon,  I  was  much  impressed  by  the  delightful  appear- 


184  AT    SIMLAH 

ance  of  the  European  children  and  of  the  dogs.  White, 
very  white  children  were  indeed  to  be  seen  in  the  plains, 
often  poor,  listless,  washed-out  little  bodies.  But  here  they 
were  the  real  thing,  with  warm  colour  and  much  vitality, 
running  about  laughing  and  as  active  as  the  big  dogs  that 
accompanied  them, — great  hairy  creatures,  Newfoundland 
and  setters,  which  were  never  to  be  seen  in  the  central 
plains.  My  dear  terrier,  indeed,  lived  through,  somehow  or 
other,  the  hot-weather,  as  did  others  of  his  breed,  by  lying 
snoozing  most  of  the  day  near  the  tattie.1  But,  save  in  the 
early  morning  or  evening,  he  seldom  had  much  bounce  or 
life  in  him. 

Another  delight  offered  to  one  by  the  hills,  after  a  long 
residence  in  the  plains,  was  the  houses.  Instead  of  the 
huge,  whitewashed,  rambling,  airy  habitations  known  below, 
the  Simlah  houses  were  mostly  compact  and  cosy.  The 
walls  of  the  rooms  were  papered,  and  in  place  of  the  cur- 
tains separating  the  rooms  were  to  be  seen  real  doors, — 
doors  that  opened  and  shut,  and  ensured  some  privacy, 
admitting  even  of  your  "  sporting  your  oak,"  if  some  un- 
usually troublesome  bore  invaded  the  establishment,  which 
in  a  house  in  the  plains,  open  to  all  four  quarters,  was 
almost  an  impossibility.  The  situation  is  explained  to 
perfection  by  Sir  Charles  Dilke  in  one  of  his  books,  in 
which  he  wrote  of  the  delight  of  finding  himself  in  a  house 
in  the  hills,  and  in  which  he  says,  "  Here  I  am  in  a  real 
room,  and  not  in  a  section  of  a  street  with  a  bed  in  it." 
How  perfectly  does  this  describe  the  room  in  the  blaz- 
ing plains,  the  whitewashed  parallelogram  of  one's  re- 
membrance ! 

I  was  now  no  longer  the  Puss-in-Boots  of  the  cotton  trade, 
but  found  myself  even  as  Jack-in-the-Beanstalk,  enjoying  quite 
a  new  world.  To  an  Orson  of  the  jungles  who  had  ever  had 
a  taste  for  the  delights  of  civilisation  enjoyed  by  his  brother 
Valentine,  Simlah,  with  its  climate,  scenery,  and  society, 
had  a  dangerous  charm.     I  stayed  with  my  kinsman,  Temple, 

1  Wetted  grass  mat. 


LORD    LAWRENCE  185 

and  he,  with  his  Private  Secretary,  Denzil  Onslow,  afterwards 
Member  for  Guildford,  did  everything  to  make  my  visit  most 
enjoyable.  I  much  looked  forward  to  the  interview  with  the 
Viceroy,  with  which  Lord  Lawrence  had  kindly  consented 
to  honour  me, — for,  ordinarily,  a  Viceroy  cannot  be  expected 
to  give  any  of  his  much-occupied  time  to  the  requirements 
of  those  of  the  minor  Departments.  I  was  then  in  a  high 
state  of  satisfaction  when  I  found  myself,  on  the  second 
day  after  my  arrival,  on  my  way  to  Government  House,  on 
a  summons  from  the  Private  Secretary  to  his  Excellency. 
And  I  was  still  more  delighted  when  I  found  myself  in  the 
presence  of  the  man  who  had  done  such  great  work  for 
India,  and  for  the  honour  of  our  service.  I  found  him 
utterly  different  from  the  Indian  big -wigs  of  Calcutta  of 
my  younger  days, — a  grand,  dignified,  quiet,  oldish  man, 
with  the  most  kindly  manner,  which  put  me  at  my  ease 
at  once.  On  the  table  was  a  note  of  the  many  require- 
ments of  the  trade  as  represented  by  me,  and  Lord  Lawrence 
asked  me  some  rather  searching  questions  regarding  a  few 
of  my  proposals.  He  said,  I  remember,  that  the  Government 
was  inclined  to  do  as  much  as  possible,  because  the  need  of 
Manchester  was  great,  and  because  the  Government  was 
satisfied  with  my  work  and  thus  had  confidence  in  my 
representations.  He  was  warmly  complimentary  on  one 
or  two  points,  and  ended  by  telling  me  I  must  try  and 
persuade  Temple  to  provide  the  money  for  my  wants.  He 
knew,  of  course,  that  I  was  a  cousin  of  his  devoted  pupil 
and  henchman.  The  interview  closed  by  his  asking  me  to 
remain  to  lunch,  and  saying  that  if  I  were  half  as  sound  as 
was  Temple,  the  Government  would  have  every  reason  to 
be  satisfied  with  me.  I  received  after  this  many  acts  of 
consideration  from  this  great  and  amiable  man,  of  whose 
favourable  opinion  I  was  necessarily  immensely  proud. 

I  enjoyed  the  society  part  of  Simlah  to  the  top  of  my  bent, 
and  though  the  Departments  kept  me  at  work  with  many 
questions  and  objections,  there  was  yet  sufficient  time  for 
enjoyment  and  for  the  many  delights  of  a  hill-station  in  bright 


l86  AT   SIMLAH 

autumn  weather.  Colonel  Malleson,  my  old  Calcutta  friend, 
was  there,  and  had  not  forgotten  '  The  Initials.'  He  had 
the  character  of  being  very  able  and  "superior,"  and  had  a 
coterie  of  literary  friends,  including  Sir  Henry  Maine,  dear 
old  Whitley  Stokes  (of  whose  death  I,  with  sorrow,  have 
heard  whilst  writing  these  notes),  Temple,  and  several  others. 
To  this  coterie  I  was  fortunate  enough  to  obtain  admission. 
In  those  days,  in  this  particular  set,  there  was  a  great  run 
upon  Shakespeare,  much  as  nowadays  there  is,  in  some 
circles,  a  still  greater  run  upon  bridge.  The  members  of 
this  set  would  give  little  dinners  and  evening  parties  in 
which  certain  ladies  joined,  and  after  dinner  some  selected 
play,  chosen  at  the  last  meeting,  would  be  read,  each  person 
taking  the  part  assigned  to  him  or  her. 

Among  these  was  Marion  Durand,  the  eldest  daughter  of 
General  Sir  Henry  Durand,  of  the  Royal  Engineers,  then 
the  Military  Member  of  the  Viceroy's  Council.  We  had 
met  before  in  Calcutta,  when  she  arrived  as  a  girl  with  her 
younger  sister  on  her  father's  appointment  from  the  Secretary 
of  State's  Council  in  London  to  his  Indian  post.  Malleson 
and  I  had  long  since  christened  these  ladies  Hildegarde  and 
Crescenz.  And  so  I  was  to  find  here  my  Hildegarde,  and 
before  my  Simlah  turn  of  duty  was  up,  I  was  engaged  to 
be  married  to  the  Hildegarde,  who  has  been  my  valued 
companion  for  upwards  of  forty  years,  and  who  is  my  aid 
and  kindly  critic  in  preparing  these  "  Memories."  The 
engagement  caused  some  little  amazement  at  the  time,  as 
my  fiancee  and  I  belonged  to  two  recognised  opposite  camps. 
Sir  Henry  Durand  was  known  not  to  be  always  in  accord 
with  the  Viceroy.  Temple,  of  whom  I  was  a  disciple,  was 
Lord  Lawrence's  devoted  henchman.  Old  Lord  Lawrence 
was  much  amused  at  the  result.  It  was  well  known  that 
the  daughter  was  Sir  Henry  Durand's  trusted  Private 
Secretary,  and  Lord  Lawrence  laughingly  told  me  that  he 
was  as  familiar  with  her  writing  as  with  that  of  her  father, 
as  the  most  important  minutes  were  invariably  copied  out 
by   her !      Sir   Henry    Durand   was   absent    at   the   time   in 


■                  ^1    & 

1       w  ^          1     % 

fj^% 

\  &?SA 

WjPr 

/•><w  <i  //Wo  £y  Bourne  <S-»  Shepherd,  Simla. 

"MY     HILDEGARDE,"    1868. 


A    VICEREGAL    GIFT  l8j 

England.  But  his  approval  having  been  obtained  and  the 
engagement  announced,  the  kindly  old  Viceroy  lost  no  time 
in  toiling  up  the  hill  to  our  house,  the  "  Observatory,"  and 
wishing  us  all  happiness.  A  red-and-gold  orderly,  that  had 
accompanied  him,  had  carried  a  large  package,  of  which 
Lord  Lawrence  asked  our  acceptance  with  his  best  wishes. 
This  was  found  to  contain  a  magnificent  silver-gilt  inkstand, 
the  sort  of  equipment  that  one  might  suppose  would  be  pro- 
vided at  the  close  of  the  Conference  at  Berlin,  and  with  the 
aid  of  which,  together  with  some  magnificent  pens,  manu- 
factured expressly  for  the  occasion,  the  high  -  contracting 
parties  of  the  various  Governments  would  be  invited  to  sign 
the  Treaty.  It  was  for  some  time  difficult  to  assign  to  this 
splendid  specimen  a  befitting  place  in  a  modest  establish- 
ment. But,  after  my  retirement,  having  rented  the  beautiful 
old  Hapsburg  Castle  of  Wildeck,  I  bethought  myself  of 
placing  it  in  the  big  library  there,  on  a  high  carved  desk, 
which  supported  one  of  Bonn  van  Hauten's  elaborate  visitors' 
books,  with  arms  emblazoned.  There,  flanked  by  two  of  Mr 
Hill's  finest  swan-quills,  it  invited  visitors,  after  they  had 
been  shown  round  the  Castle,  to  inscribe  their  names.  And 
it  now  holds  the  same  important  post  under  nearly  similar 
conditions  in  the  library  of  this  old  Chateau.  It  is  the 
admiration  of  many  visitors,  who,  I  am  certain,  are  much 
more  interested  in  it  than  they  are  in  the  various  specimens 
of  the  relics  of  this  old  Schloss  and  of  the  adjacent  valley 
in  old  times,  placed  for  their  instruction  in  the  museum  in 
the  billiard-room.  It  will  always  remain  a  proud  testimony 
of  the  countenance  received  by  me  from  the  great  Viceroy 
under  whom  I  had  the  honour  to  serve,  and  who  was  one 
of  the  most  distinguished  men  of  the  great  service  to  which 
I  once  belonged. 

I  had  now  to  return  to  Nagpore  and  put  my  house  in 
order  for  the  arrival  of  a  wife.  We  were  married  at  Simlah 
in  Christmas  week  1868,  on  a  hyper-glorious  winter's  day, 
when,  after  heavy  rain,  the  weather  suddenly  clearing,  re- 
vealed the  mountain-ranges  all  clothed  in  pure  bridal  robes 


100  AT    SIMLAH 

in  honour  of  the  event.  The  assemblage  was  not  large,  as, 
fortunately,  Simlah  was  then  nearly  deserted.  My  wife's 
sisters  were  the  bridesmaids.  My  best  man  was  Charlie 
MacGregor,1  an  old  friend,  then  only  a  Lieutenant  in  the 
staff- corps,  but  already  a  soldier  with  a  reputation  who 
was  employed  on  the  staff  at  Simlah.  He  asked  me  in  the 
gruff  way  peculiar  to  him  what  he  was  to  do,  and  I  jokingly 
replied  that  he  had  to  hold  the  ring,  and  marry  one  of  the 
bridesmaids.  When  the  moment  for  its  disposal  arrived,  he 
nearly  swallowed  the  ring,  and  not  long  afterwards  he  came 
to  me  in  a  sheepish  way  and  announced,  "  Going  to  marry 
one  of  the  bridesmaids."  He  married  my  wife's  youngest 
sister  six  months  later,  and,  before  that  event,  had  already 
been  promoted  in  that  brief  space  from  Lieutenant  to 
Lieutenant  -  Colonel.  He  was  widely  recognised  as  one  of 
the  finest  and  most  rising  soldiers  in  the  service,  but, 
though  not  before  he  had  gained  great  distinction,  he  died, 
at  the  comparatively  early  age  of  forty-eight,  of  a  disease 
contracted  whilst  General-in-Command  of  a  brigade  during 
the  Afghan  war. 

Our  short  honeymoon  was  spent  at  Simlah,  near  my 
father-in-law,  Sir  Henry  Durand,  who  had  returned  from 
home  in  time  to  be  present  at  our  wedding.  Until  then,  I 
had  seen  but  little  of  this  remarkable  man,  who  had  arrived 
in  Calcutta  during  the  latter  part  only  of  my  term  there. 
But  he  was  known  to  all  by  reputation  as  one  of  the  most 
distinguished  of  the  great  soldier  -  administrators  of  India, 
and  to  be  a  man  of  the  highest  character  and  of  the  first 
courage  and  independence.  Many  stood  somewhat  in  awe 
of  him  and  his  commanding  presence,  but  all  respected  him. 
I  cannot  trust  myself  to  attempt  to  describe  the  character 
of  this  great  man,  which  has  already  been  portrayed  more 
than  once,  both    carefully  and   correctly,   by  other  writers. 

1  General  Sir  Charles  MacGregor,  K.C.B.,  C.S.I.,  CLE.  Although  recom- 
mended for  reward,  he  could  not  be  promoted  by  brevet  until  he  attained  the  rank 
of  Captain.  On  that  being  reached,  he  jumped  at  once  to  Major  and  Lieutenant- 
Colonel. 


GENERAL    SIR    HENRY    DURAND  189 

My  close  connection  with  him,  too,  would  probably  not  admit 
of  my  being  accepted  as  an  unprejudiced  chronicler.  It  will 
be  enough  to  say  that,  after  I  got  to  know  him,  he  seemed 
to  me  to  be,  in  all  things,  a  head  and  shoulders  above  every 
one  else,  and  will  ever  remain  as  such  in  my  remembrance. 
We  soon  became  the  closest  friends.  It  has  already  been 
said  that  his  daughter  was  devoted  to  him.  It  was  known 
that  the  distinguished  father  was  equally  devoted  to  the 
daughter,  who  was  deservedly  admired  and  respected  by  the 
many  various  elements  that  constitute  Indian  society.  In 
due  course  Sir  Henry  accepted  me  as  a  devoted  son.  As 
I  was  soon  to  be  in  constant  touch  with  the  headquarters 
of  Government,  I  had  the  privilege  of  being  often  with  him 
until  he  left  as  Governor  of  the  Punjab,  not  long  before  his 
untimely  death.  For  him  I  had  the  greatest  affection,  ad- 
miration, and  respect,  and  before  he  left  us  I  think  that  he 
recognised  that  I  was  nearly  as  devoted  to  him  as  was  the 
daughter  I  had  taken  away  from  his  side. 


igo 


CHAPTER    IX. 


WITH    LORD    MAYO. 


Lord  Mayo  succeeds  Lord  Lawrence  as  Viceroy — We  visit  Lord  Napier 
of  Magdala  at  Bombay — Summoned  to  Umballa — First  interview 
with  Lord  Mayo — Confides  to  me  the  construction  of  the  first  State 
Railway  in  India — The  Amir  of  Afghanistan  at  Umballa — Simlah — 
Difficulties  with  the  railway — Mr  Alex.  Izat  appointed  Engineer — 
His  success — Capture  rails  from  Bombay—  General  Trevor,  R.E. — 
Major  O.  Burne  as  Private  Secretary — His  excellent  management — 
Sir  Henry  Maine  lends  us  his  Simlah  house — Personal  work  with 
Lord  Mayo — Major  Lucie-Smith's  coal-mine — His  discoveries  in 
Chandah — Opposed  by  the  Geological  Department — His  persever- 
ance— Lord  Mayo  shows  me  the  file — Orders  further  investigation — 
Tour  in  Chandah — Plot  by  the  Staff — Lord  Mayo's  night-ride  in  a 
bullock  -  coach — Opening  of  coal-mine — Distribution  of  rewards — 
Major  Lucie-Smith's  great  services — Lord  Mayo  opens  Khangaon 
State  Railway,  the  first  in  India — Rewards  my  Private  Secretary — 
A  Governor's  views  on  patronage  —  A  shoot  in  the  Sauthpoorah 
jungles — The  Viceregal,  or  so-called  Local  Fund,  tiger — Expenses 
incurred  therewith — Bullocks — Indisposition  of  tiger  from  overfeed- 
ing— Expensive  medical  attendance  necessary — The  shoot  reserved 
for  the  Viceroy — Catastrophe  of  a  chance  shot — Lamentable  im- 
mediate decease  of  the  tiger — His  cost — Difficulties  raised  by  the 
Accountant-General — The  Rev.  Dr  Wilson's  veracious  story  of  a 
Bombay  tiger. 


The  reign  of  Lord  Lawrence  came  to  a  close  soon  after  our 
marriage,  and  when  I  had  returned  to  my  Puss-in-Boots 
duties  at  Nagpore.  The  newspapers  then  announced  what 
some  represented  as  almost  a  calamity,  the  appointment  as 
Viceroy  of  the  Earl  of  Mayo,  whom  these,  in  their  wisdom, 
represented  as  quite  unfitted  for  the  post.  '  Punch,'  too,  who 
is  seldom    at  fault,  was   misled    into   publishing   a   cartoon 


LORD    NAPIER   OF    MAGDALA  igi 

representing  beautiful,  bright  India  suffering  eclipse  by  the 
advent  of  the  new  Viceroy.  So  much  for  the  value  of 
public  opinion  in  the  case  of  the  man  who  has  since  been 
recognised  as  one  of  the  most  distinctly  capable  Viceroys 
that  India  has  ever  known ! 

My  work  still  occasionally  took  me  to  Bombay.  Alas  !  the 
Freres  had  left,  they  who  had  ever  been  not  only  the  best 
of  friends  to  me,  but  also  of  my  wife  and  her  father.  Lord 
Napier  of  Magdala,  however,  had  come  in  the  meantime  as 
Commander-in-Chief,  and  being  a  brother  officer  of  Sir  Henry 
Durand's  and  the  friend  of  my  wife  since  she  had  been  a 
child,  we  found  warm  welcome  at  his  hospitable  house.  The 
speculation  mania  had  abated.  There  had  been  failures  and 
ruined  fortunes.  But  trade  was  on  a  much  more  satisfactory 
basis  than  before.  The  price  of  cotton  still  admitted  of 
money  being  made,  kept  business  active,  and  encouraged 
many  claims  being  pressed  on  the  Government,  all  of  which 
came  to  me  for  report.  Among  the  most  pressing  of  these 
was  the  demand  for  improved  communications  with  Khangaon 
and  Oomrautee,  the  chief  cotton  markets  on  this  side  of  India. 
In  laying  out  the  Great  India  Peninsular  Railway  the  origin- 
ators had  said  in  their  wisdom,  "  Never  mind  the  towns  and 
markets.  All  trade  must  come  to  the  railway.  What  is 
required  is  a  cheap  straight  line,  following  that  of  least 
resistance."  So  the  railway  was  carried  through  the  valley 
in  a  bee-line,  leaving  these  important  centres  of  trade,  the 
one  at  twelve  miles  the  other  at  ten  miles  to  the  south.  But 
the  conservative  Hindu  was  not  to  be  so  easily  moved,  and  it 
was  soon  found  that  he  was  determined  to  stick  to  his  old 
marts.  It  was  naturally  a  standing  grievance  with  the 
European  firms  who,  with  great  trouble  and  at  great  ex- 
pense, had  set  up  cotton  -  cleaning  and  pressing  machinery 
at  these  markets,  that,  after  overcoming  many  difficulties  and 
after  bringing  the  cotton  to  the  steam-presses  erected  for  the 
improvement  of  the  packing,  and  that  process  being  com- 
pleted, the  bales  should  again  have  to  undertake  a  journey 
by  road  to  the  railway  station.     In  the  interests  of  the  trade 


ig2  WITH    LORD    MAYO 

I  had  strongly  urged  upon  the  Government  the  desirability 
of  constructing  these  branch  lines,  and  the  Chambers  of 
Commerce  and  the  Berar  authorities  had  manfully  supported 
my  proposals.  At  Simlah  I  had  been  unable  to  get  these 
projects  through  the  Secretariat,  and  had  been  obliged  to 
content  myself  with  the  success  of  some  half  a  dozen  minor 
schemes.  But  with  a  new  Viceroy  who,  in  his  published 
utterances  before  leaving  England,  had  expressed  his  readi- 
ness to  give  early  attention  to  the  requirements  of  the  trade, 
I  returned  to  the  charge.  During  a  pleasant  visit  my  wife 
and  I  were  making  at  Bombay  to  Lord  Napier  of  Magdala 
during  the  spring  of  1869,  I  learnt  that  Lord  Mayo  desired 
that  I  should  proceed  at  once  to  Umballa  and  join  there 
the  Viceregal  camp  assembled  to  receive  the  Amir  of  Afghan- 
istan. The  Khangaon  and  some  other  schemes,  I  was  told, 
would  be  considered  by  the  Viceroy  in  personal  consultation 
with  myself.  These  orders  naturally  gave  me  the  greatest 
satisfaction.  Not  only  would  I  thus  have  an  opportunity 
of  seeing  the  new  Viceroy,  and  personally  urging  my 
schemes,  but  this  durbar  was  an  important  political  event, 
at  which  it  was  a  privilege  to  be  present.  Moreover,  there 
I  should  be  with  Sir  Henry  Durand  and  Temple,  who  as 
Members  of  the  Viceregal  Council  attended  the  ceremonies, 
and  I  should  meet  there  old  friends  collected  from  many 
parts  of  India.  The  prospect,  then,  was  in  every  way  pleasing. 
Now  came  a  repetition  of  the  journey  across  the  Sauthpoorahs 
to  Jubbulpore,  and  thence  on  to  the  head  of  the  approaching 
railway,  which,  steadily  working  its  way  through  the  interven- 
ing native  States,  was  making  fair  progress  in  its  work  of 
rescue,  which  was  to  bring  civilisation  within  reach  of  us. 
Early  in  March  1869  I  found  myself  in  the  busy  Viceregal 
camp,  which  had  been  arranged  with  full  oriental  splendour, 
so  as  to  receive  the  Ruler  of  Afghanistan  with  all  the  pomp 
and  ceremony  befitting  his  high  rank. 

On  the  day  of  my  arrival  I  was  informed  that  the  Viceroy 
would  receive  me  the  next  forenoon.  I  went  to  my  audience 
not  without  some  misgiving.     I  was  anxious  to  satisfy  the 


FIRST    INTERVIEW  I93 

great  man's  expectations  as  to  the  progress  in  my  Depart- 
ment, but  I  knew  that  the  mighty  are  often  not  easily 
satisfied.  Lord  Mayo,  of  whom  I  shall  have  much  to  say  in 
a  later  chapter,  put  me  at  my  ease,  and  dispelled  all  my 
anxiety  before  I  had  been  in  his  presence  five  minutes.  I 
still  seem  to  be  able  to  see  the  look  with  which  he  first 
greeted  me.  It  was  dignified  and  quiet,  but  so  amiable 
and  straight  that  it  removed  all  apprehension  at  once.  He 
spoke  to  me  quite  freely  and  easily,  without  any  of  the 
stiffness  and  pomposity  sometimes  noticed  in  rulers  of  lesser 
magnitude.  He  commenced  by  saying  that  the  question 
of  the  cotton-supply  was  of  enormous  importance  to  both 
India  and  England,  and  that  he  was  prepared  to  give  to  it  all 
necessary  attention.  He  added  that  he  had  read  my  mem- 
orandum of  progress  and  statement  of  requirements,  and 
that  he  had  received  favourable  reports  of  what  I  had  done ; 
and  that  so  long  as  I  kept  up  to  the  mark  I  might  rely  on 
his  personal  support.  He  said  he  gathered  that  the  most 
pressing  of  the  works  recommended  by  me  was  the  short 
line  of  railway  from  the  great  cotton  market  of  Khangaon 
to  the  main  line  of  the  G.I. P.  Railway.  I  was  to  see  the 
Secretary  in  the  Public  Works  Department  (the  late  General 
Sir  Richard  Strachey),  who  had  already  placed  the  matter 
before  the  Government  ;  I  should  talk  the  affair  over 
with  him,  and  attend  with  the  Secretary  the  next  after- 
noon to  receive  the  final  orders  of  the  Viceroy.  I  went 
away  relieved  and  much  satisfied,  and  quite  delighted  with 
the  great  man  of  whom  later  I  was  to  see  so  much,  and  to 
whom  I  was  to  be  indebted  for  such  constant  kindness  and 
support.  I  found  that  Colonel  Strachey  had  quite  accepted 
my  recommendations,  and  that  a  scheme  was  all  cut  and 
dried  for  my  little  cotton  railway,  the  first  of  the  State 
Railways  of  the  Government  of  India.  The  next  afternoon 
I  accompanied  Colonel  Strachey,  with  much  less  misgiving, 
to  my  second  audience  with  the  Viceroy.  Lord  Mayo  went 
through  the  chief  points,  and  then,  to  my  utter  astonishment, 
announced  that,  after  consulting  the  Secretary,  he  had  de- 

N 


ig4  WITH    LORD    MAYO 

termined  to  confide  the  whole  carrying  out  of  the  scheme  to 
me !  He  added,  "  You  are  on  the  spot,  know  the  local 
requirements,  and  we  have  confidence  in  you, — so  much  so, 
that  you  will  be  allowed  to  select  your  own  engineer  for 
the  work.  He,"  Lord  Mayo  said,  "  must  keep  within  his 
estimates,  and  you  must  keep  him  up  to  the  mark.  And  it 
is  absolutely  necessary  that  the  work  should  be  finished  by 
next  spring,  so  that  I  may  open  the  line  in  person  at  the 
close  of  my  tour  in  Central  India."  It  was  enough,  I  think, 
to  turn  the  head  of  a  not  very  wise  young  civilian,  to  be 
entrusted  by  two  such  distinguished  men  with  a  work  not 
in  his  own  line, — the  construction  of  the  first  State  Railway 
in  India!  After  dining  with  the  Viceroy,  and  receiving  a  few 
more  encouraging  words  from  him,  I  returned  to  Nagpore  in 
a  very  natural  state  of  elation,  which  was  further  increased 
by  the  reception  of  a  demi-official  letter  from  the  Viceroy 
himself,  reiterating  his  confidence  in  me,  and  authorising 
me,  if  I  found  it  necessary,  to  write  to  him  through  his 
Private  Secretary  on  any  urgent  points.  I  had  fortunately 
the  good  sense  not  to  trust  altogether  to  my  own  judgment 
in  the  choice  of  an  engineer,  and  I  at  once  consulted  the 
head  of  the  local  Public  Works  Department.  He  was 
very  strongly  in  favour  of  a  pleasant  enough  fellow,  a  man  I 
knew  and  liked  personally,  who  was  supposed  to  have  great 
experience  of  railway  work,  having  served  for  some  years 
on  one  of  the  great  lines  before  joining  the  Government 
service.  So  I  took  my  man  down  to  Berar  and  started 
him  there.  For  some  little  time  it  was  not  easy  to  judge 
of  the  progress,  but  it  was  painfully  evident  that  the  time 
available  for  getting  the  work  through  was  very  limited. 
I  was  pledged  to  Lord  Mayo  to  have  the  line  ready  for 
the  formal  opening  in  March.  When  I  returned  from  a 
holiday  at  Simlah,  and  as  the  cold  weather  came  on,  it 
was  evident  that  my  man  was  making  but  slow  progress. 
It  was  then  explained  that,  though  he  had  been  long  em- 
ployed upon  railways,  he  had  always  had  contractors  under 
him  to  do  the  constructional  work,   and  that  he  was  quite 


THE    FIRST    STATE    RAILWAY  I95 

unaccustomed  to  collecting  labour  and  supervising  it.  I  was 
in  a  serious  dilemma.  Fortunately,  in  Berar  was  now,  as 
Commissioner,  my  life-long  and  valued  friend  Mr  (now  the 
Right  Hon.  Sir  Alfred)  Lyall.  After  consulting  with  him, 
it  was  decided  that,  if  the  line  was  to  be  ready  by  the 
time  specified,  the  engineer  in  charge  must  be  changed. 
My  man  was  a  very  gentlemanly,  cultivated  person,  a  great 
favourite  in  society,  who  would  be  practically  ruined  if 
summarily  removed.  Still,  there  was  nothing  else  to  be 
done ;  and  a  change  was  immediately  sanctioned  from 
Simlah.  Fortunately,  there  happened  to  be  on  the  spot 
a  young  engineer,  Mr  Alexander  Izat,  recently  out  from 
home,  and  then  employed  as  the  engineer  of  the  Akola 
Local  Funds.  Both  Lyall  and  I  knew  him  to  be  a  man 
of  special  energy  and  resource.  So  him  did  we  put  into 
the  breach,  and  tell  to  go  in  and  win.  And  win  he  did. 
In  a  couple  of  weeks'  time  I  was  able  to  report  to  Simlah 
that  all  anxiety  had  passed,  and  that  Mr  Izat  had  the 
work  well  in  hand,  and  guaranteed  it  being  ready  by  the 
date  fixed.  And  how  the  first  State  Railway  was  formally 
opened  by  the  Viceroy,  and  how  Colonel  Strachey  conferred 
upon  me  the  title  of  "  Honorary  Sub  -  Inspector  in  the 
P.W.D.,"  must  be  related  at  the  close  of  the  tour  made 
with  the  Viceroy  in  the  spring  of  1870.  I  would  only  add 
here,  that  although  nowadays  the  construction  of  this  little 
line  in  less  than  a  year  may,  according  to  the  present  ideas, 
appear  to  be  a  very  diminutive  success,  the  conditions  at 
the  time  were  very  different  from  those  of  India  of  to-day. 
The  difficulties  were  considerable.  Material  had  to  be 
brought  up  long  distances  by  country  road  by  native  cart, 
and  labour  was  not  abundant.  A  consignment  of  rails 
expected  from  England  was  delayed,  and  there  were  ab- 
solutely no  new  rails  available  in  the  country.  Fortunately 
I  ascertained  that  some  rails  brought  back  from  Abyssinia 
were  stored  away  unused  in  Bombay,  and  I  rushed  down 
there  and  persuaded  my  good  friend  General  Trevor,  then 
the  Chief  Engineer,  to  let  me  have  them.     He  consented, 


ig6  WITH    LORD    MAYO 

and  that  afternoon  I  proceeded  to  cart  them  to  the  railway- 
station.  I  was  getting  on  well  with  the  work  when  down 
came  an  order  from  the  then  Governor,  who  was  at  Poonah, 
to  stop  delivery,  on  the  grounds  that  the  rails  might  be 
wanted  later  locally.  But  dear  old  Trevor,  who  was  all 
for  the  public  service,  and  would  be  no  party  to  the  jealousies 
that  occasionally  cropped  up  between  Bombay  and  Simlah, 
regretted  his  indiscretion  deeply,  but  reported  that  I  had 
already  carried  off  all  but  three-quarters  of  a  mile  of  rail, 
which  was  hardly  worth  while  retaining !  But  he  had  tipped 
me  the  wink  in  time,  and  for  two  days,  during  which  those 
orders  were  being  registered,  docketed,  and  the  file  got 
ready  for  action,  my  coolies  and  cartmen  were  working 
double  tides,  and  the  miserable  residue  of  three-quarters  of 
a  mile  of  rail  only  was  left  in  the  yard  for  the  veto  of 
the  unamiable  and  jealous  Government  of  Bombay. 

But  I  must  revert.  When  the  railway  work  had  been 
well  started,  and  the  rains  had  set  in,  Burne,1  Lord  Mayo's 
private  secretary,  wrote  me  that  the  Viceroy  would  be  glad 
if,  during  the  slack  season,  I  could  manage  to  come  up  to 
Simlah  for  a  time,  there  personally  to  represent  and  explain 
some  of  the  questions  then  pending.  The  change,  too,  it  was 
kindly  added,  would  do  me  good  after  all  the  hard  work  in  the 
heat.  Since  my  Umballa  visit  I  had  been  in  constant  com- 
munication with  that  pearl  of  Private  Secretaries.  For, 
however  able  others  may  have  proved  themselves,  I  doubt 
if  any  man  ever  filled  this  difficult  and  confidential  post 
better  than  did  Burne.  For  years  we  were  in  constant 
correspondence,  and  I  had  full  experience  of  him,  not  only 
in  Lord  Mayo's  time,  but  later  also  when  he  returned  to 
India  as  Private  Secretary  to  Lord  Lytton.  His  tact,  good 
temper,  and  courtesy  in  dealing  with  many  difficult  questions 
and  persons,  always  filled  me  with  admiration  and  envy. 
He  was  an  ideal  Private  Secretary  in  the  manner  in  which 
he  entirely  effaced  himself,  working  always  for  the  credit 
of  his  master,  and  never  letting  his  own  hand  appear.     He 

1  The  late  General  Sir  Owen  Burne,  G.C.I.E.,  K.C.S.I.,  &c. 


AT    SI  ML  AH  197 

was  constantly  thinking  out  graceful,  kindly  little  attentions 
to  those  brought  in  contact  with  the  Viceroy  and  Govern- 
ment House,  and  these  being  paid  in  the  name  of  the 
Viceroy  added  to  His  Excellency's  popularity,  and  oiled 
the  wheels  of  the  official  machinery.  For  these  kindnesses 
I  came  in  for  my  full  share  in  my  time,  and  during  my 
whole  service  I  was  under  great  obligations  to  my  generous 
friend,  who,  whether  at  Government  House  or  the  India 
Office,  was  always  ready  to  listen  to  my  requirements,  and 
to  help  as  far  as  it  was  in  his  power  to  do.  Alas !  I  have 
had  quite  recently  to  regret  his  death,  and  also  that  of 
several  other  of  my  contemporaries,  who,  like  myself,  have 
reached  the  limit  mentioned  by  the  Psalmist. 

At  Simlah  my  wife  and  I  found  a  delightful  house,  not 
too  huge,  placed  at  our  disposal  by  Sir  Henry  Sumner 
Maine,  who  was  a  great  friend  of  Sir  Henry  Durand  and 
also  of  my  wife.  The  views  on  all  sides  were  glorious. 
The  climate,  after  the  hot  weather  in  Central  India  and 
on  the  coast,  was  most  invigorating.  My  wife's  family 
and  our  many  friends  were  assembled  round  the  Govern- 
ment, so  that  we  had  all  that  a  young  married-couple  in 
India  could  wish  for.  Lord  Mayo  showed  me  the  greatest 
kindness  and  confidence,  and  made  all  my  official  work 
most  pleasant.  And,  in  those  days,  I  had  no  lack  of  en- 
couragement from  other  quarters,  as  the  Chambers  of  Com- 
merce in  Bombay  and  at  home  were  quite  satisfied  with 
all  that  was  being  done  to  meet  the  many  demands  of  the 
trade.  Then,  and  afterwards,  I  was  allowed  to  place  per- 
sonally before  Lord  Mayo  questions  that  required  special 
attention.  And  it  was  his  practice  whilst  I  was  at  Simlah 
to  send  for  me  and  desire  me  to  obtain  information  on, 
or  to  explain,  certain  points  which  presented  themselves. 
I  was  nominally  the  Cotton  Commissioner  under  the  local 
Administrations  of  the  Central  Provinces  and  the  Berars, 
and  my  doing  business  with  the  Viceroy  direct  was  against 
all  precedent,  and  placed  me  in  a  somewhat  difficult 
position   with   the   heads   of    the    local   governments   under 


ig8  WITH    LORD    MAYO 

whom  I  served.  Lord  Mayo  realised  this,  and,  as  will  be 
seen  later  on,  saved  me  from  the  inconveniencies  of  the 
position  by  having  me  appointed  Commissioner  of  Com- 
merce, as  well  as  Cotton  Commissioner  with  the  Govern- 
ment of  India,  so  that  my  dealings  could  now  be  with  the 
Supreme  Government  direct. 

The  following  incidents  relate  to  the  times  when  I  was 
at  headquarters  on  attendance  on  the  Viceroy.  One  after- 
noon at  Simlah,  when  I  had  finished  some  business 
connected  with  my  Department  which  I  had  had  to  take 
up  to  the  Viceroy,  Lord  Mayo,  opening  one  of  the  little, 
square,  brick-shaped  files  of  those  days,  said  to  me,  "  So 
you  were  in  Chandah  ?  I  have  just  come  across  your 
name  in  this  file,  all  about  some  coal,  which  an  en- 
thusiast of  the  name  of  Lucie -Smith  insists  upon  declar- 
ing exists  in  the  Chandah  district.  I  see  he  says  you  once 
accompanied  him  to  the  spot.  Now,  come  and  tell  me 
all  about  it.  He  has,  I  see,  been  snubbed  by  the  Geological 
Department  and  the  local  authorities  time  after  time.  But 
he  is  most  persistent,  and  returns  again  and  again  to  the 
charge,  and  his  earnestness  impresses  me."  So  I  told  the 
Viceroy  the  whole  story  of  my  friend,  of  his  enthusiasm 
and  persistence  through  good  and  evil  report,  and  his  un- 
swerving faith  in  the  Chandah  coal  -  field.  Major  (now 
General)  Lucie-Smith  was  a  man  of  real  king-craft.  Living 
as  a  bachelor  in  an  out-of-the-way  but  very  interesting 
district,  he  was  a  little  king  among  the  people,  and  devoted 
himself  to  everything  affecting  the  interests  of  his  charge. 
One  day  in  camp  he  came  across  what  he  believed  to  be 
a  coal-seam.  He  realised  how  important  such  a  discovery 
would  be  to  his  beloved  district,  and  immediately  went  at 
the  matter  enthusiastically.  He  read  up  all  the  literature 
he  could  procure  on  the  subject,  commenced  to  study 
geology  seriously,  and  went  about  in  camp  with  a  box  full 
of  specimens,  a  hammer,  and  a  variety  of  text-books.  A 
sack -load  or  so  of  his  find  had,  in  the  meantime,  been 
sent   into   Nagpore,   and   had   been   submitted   for   what   it 


lucie-smith's  coal  199 

was  worth  for  the  inspection  and  opinion  of  the  Geological 
Department  in  far-off  Calcutta.  A  scornful  and  disappoint- 
ing answer  came  back  to  the  zealous  Deputy-Commissioner. 
The  stuff  was  certainly  as  black  as  coal,  but  how  could  it 
possibly  be  coal  when  the  Geological  Department  had  never 
reported  coal  to  be  there  ?  So  poor  Lucie-Smith  was  for 
the  moment  silenced.  But  he  never  then,  or  half  a  dozen 
times  afterwards,  gave  in  or  abandoned  faith  in  his  dis- 
covery. He  went  for  the  Local  Government  periodically, 
bombarding  them  with  letters  and  sackfuls  of  his  coal. 
These  were  duly  sent  on  to  the  Geological  Department,  which 
continued  to  be  as  disdainful  as  ever.  At  last  they  admitted 
that  Lucie-Smith  had  found  what  was  a  species  of  coal,  of 
which  the  Department  had  known  all  along,  but  had  not 
been  considered  worthy  of  notice.  The  only  use  of  coal 
was  to  burn,  said  the  Department.  This  stuff  would  not 
burn.  Major  Lucie-Smith  might  have  discovered  coal  if 
it  so  pleased  him  to  say  so,  but  it  was  not  the  economic 
product  in  which  the  Geological  Department,  and  it  was 
believed  the  Government  also,  were  interested.  So  Lucie- 
Smith  had  to  begin  again.  He  saw  that  the  early  sack- 
loads  of  stuff  had  perhaps  been  taken  out  too  close  to  the 
surface,  where  the  strength  of  the  coal  had  evaporated 
under  hundreds  of  years  of  burning  sun.  So  he  dug 
deeper,  and  to  his  delight  found  stuff  that  blazed  merrily. 
He  carried  in  several  cartloads  to  Nagpore,  and  insisted 
on  experimenting  therewith  before  the  Chief  Commissioner. 
And  behold  there  was  such  a  Fifth  of  November  blaze 
that  Government  House,  the  public  offices,  and  the  new 
church  nearly  all  perished  in  the  conflagration, — or  rather 
might  have  been  in  danger,  had  not  the  timely  arrival  of 
the  local  fire-brigade  swamped  the  most  successful  Chandah 
bonfire!  But  the  Geological  Department  said,  "Exactly; 
the  coal  did  burn.  That  was  just  its  fault ;  it  was  much 
too  inflammable  :  the  Local  Government  had  had  the  ex- 
perience of  that  bonfire,  at  which  most  of  their  public 
buildings   might   have   been   sacrificed.      As    a    commercial 


200  WITH    LORD    MAYO 

product  the   stuff  was   simply   a   terror  and  a  danger,  and 
might,  if  it  could  have  been  got  safely  to  the  coast  in  old 
days,  have  been  employed  in  the  fire  -  ships  of  the  former 
wars ;    that   was   all."      The   file   was    in   about   this   stage 
when  Lord  Mayo  spoke  to  me  about  it.      Poor  old  Lucie- 
Smith  had  made  a  last  frantic  appeal  to  the   Government. 
I  was  able  to  relate  how  I  had  visited  that  coal-hole,  and 
how  I  believed  in  old  Lucie- Smith's  find.      The  file  went 
back  from  the  Viceroy,  with  orders  insisting  on  the  subject 
being    taken    up    seriously.      And    the    end    was    that    the 
Geological    Department's    Chief    had    to    pay   a   prolonged 
visit  to  Chandah,  and  that,  eventually,  the  Lucie-Smith  coal- 
field had  to  be  accepted  as  a  fact,    amidst  the  hearty  re- 
joicings of  those  locally  interested.     Lord  Mayo  announced 
his  intention  of  formally  opening  the  pit  on  his  approach- 
ing visit    to   the    Central    Provinces,   and,    notwithstanding 
many  pressing  engagements,  managed  to  keep  his  promise. 
In  February  1870  I  found  myself  once  more  in  camp  in 
the  beautiful  Chandah  district ;   but  no  more  as  Settlement 
Officer,   but   as   one   of    the    suite   of    the   Viceroy.      Lord 
Mayo  had  directed  me  to  accompany  him  throughout  the 
tour,  and  it  was   a   great    delight    to    be    again  among   old 
friends    in    familiar    haunts.       Bernard,    best    of   men,    was 
the  Commissioner   of  the    Division.      Lucie  -  Smith  was  in 
his  glory  as  the  head  of  the  district  in  which  the  Viceroy 
was  encamped,  and  he  was  clothed  in  his  fresh  honours  of 
discoverer  of  the  coal-field,  and  consequently  in  high  spirits 
and  favour.     The  camp  was  on  the  high-road,  some  fifteen 
miles  from  the  city  of  Chandah  and  about  ten  miles  from 
the  coal  -  field  which  was   to   be  opened   in   state  the  next 
morning.    Lucie-Smith  had  been  most  anxious  that  Lord  Mayo 
should  visit  his  beloved  city  of  Chandah,  in  which  he  had 
worked  wonders  during  his  reign,  transforming  a  poisonous 
native  city  into  a  habitable  station,  and  providing  it  with  all 
sorts  of  modern  improvements.     Dear,  generous  old  Bernard, 
too,  was  most  anxious  for  the  visit.     But  the  higher  powers 
were  dead  opposed  to  Lucie-Smith  getting  any  more  credit. 


A   VICEREGAL    PLOT  201 

He  had  succeeded  in  persuading  the  Viceroy  to  upset  all 
local  estimates  of  his  coal  discoveries.  So  a  visit  to  the 
city  of  Chandah  was  cut  out  of  the  programme  by  the 
Local  Government,  and  the  Viceregal  party,  being  de- 
pendent on  the  local  authorities  for  most  of  the  arrange- 
ments, the  decision  had  to  be  accepted.  But  there  were 
traitors  in  the  camp  ;  and  Major  Burne,  the  Private 
Secretary  already  alluded  to,  —  a  man  who  had  a  mar- 
vellous gift  of  being  able  to  find  out  everything  and  to 
please  everybody, — was  good-naturedly  exercised  over  Lucie- 
Smith's  severe  disappointment.  So  that  day  a  plot  was 
hatched ;  and  if  I  was  among  the  conspirators,  it  is  quite 
enough  for  me  to  plead  that  Bernard  was  of  the  number 
to  show  that  all  was  right  -  wise  and  fair, —  for  Bernard 
would  never  have  permitted  anything  the  least  unfair  or 
doubtful  to  be  suggested  even,  much  less  carried  through. 
The  denouement  came  off  during  dinner.  That  big  tent, 
the  dinner  -  table,  the  places  of  the  principal  actors,  all 
remain  photographed  on  my  memory  even  to  this  day, 
after  a  lapse  of  forty  years ! 

"  This  is  the  Chandah  district  already,  is  it  not  ?  "  says 
Lord  Mayo,  addressing  the  local  magnate. 

"Yes,  your  Excellency,"  is  the  reply;  "we  crossed  the 
boundary  at  the  river  a  few  miles  down." 

"  Oh !  And  how  far,  then,  is  the  city  of  Chandah  from 
here  ?  " 

"  Oh,  about  fifteen  miles,  sir,"  says  the  magnate. 

"  Bernard  tells  me,"  continues  the  Viceroy,  "  that  it  is 
the  most  interesting  old  city,  with  some  fine  native  build- 
ings and  a  magnificent  wall  running  round  the  place.  I 
should  have  liked  to  have  seen  it." 

"  It  would  certainly  have  been  included  in  the  pro- 
gramme," answers  the  other,  "  had  not  your  Excellency- 
been  pressed  for  time ;  and  although  we  are  not  far  from 
the  place,  it  would  be  impossible  now  to  arrange  for  horses, 
which  are  laid  out  for  the  ceremony  of  to-morrow  and  the 
return  to  Nagpore." 


202  WITH    LORD    MAYO 

"Oh,  horses,"  answers  Lord  Mayo.  "  Rivett-Carnac  tells 
me  that,  when  he  was  in  the  district,  he  used  often  to  make 
a  night's  journey  in  a  bullock-coach.  Not  a  bad  means  of 
conveyance,  is  it — eh  ?  "  adds  Lord  Mayo,  addressing  me. 

I  gave  my  testimony  to  the  merits  of  this  class  of  vehicle, 
when  the  Viceroy,  to  the  amazement  of  those  not  in  the 
plot,  announced — 

"I  am  thinking  of  trying  a  bullock  -  coach  after  dinner, 
as  there  is  no  other  means  of  conveyance  available,  and 
having  a  look  at  Major  Lucie- Smith's  Chandah  to-morrow 
morning  before  opening  his  coal-fields.  I  will  not  trouble 
you  to  change  your  arrangements  in  any  way,"  continues 
he,  addressing  the  great  man.  "  Bernard  has  got  me  a 
cart,  and  will  see  me  through." 

This  was  indeed  a  bombshell.     The  Viceroy  was  evidently 
quite  determined,  and  there  was  nothing  more  to  be  said. 
I  can  still  see  the  whole  scene  outside  the  Viceregal  camp 
that    cold  -  weather    night,    now    nearly    forty    years     ago. 
Lord   Mayo,   preparing    himself  for   the  journey,  had  come 
out   of    his    tent   wearing   a   long   coat    covering   a   pair   of 
pyjamas — if  indeed  it   is  possible  for  a  Viceroy  to  be  clad 
in  pyjamas.      The  bullock  -  coach  is  there,  the  sentries  are 
standing  at  attention.     The  local  dignitary  is  perturbed  and 
put  out,  but  present.     The  staff  are  amused  ;  the  Europeans 
not  of  the  party  are  astonished ;    the  natives  are  amazed. 
Lucie-Smith  is  jubilant;    Bernard  looks  serious.      The  red- 
and-gold  chupr assies  glide  about  like  huge  goldfish.      Lord 
Mayo   tumbles   into  the  coach,  settles   himself  down   amid 
cushions   and   straw,    and   pronounces   all    "  excellent,    most 
comfortable."     He  lights  a  big  cigar,  waves  his  hand,  and 
says  good  -  night.      Bernard  and  Lucie  -  Smith  mount  their 
horses  and  take  position  on  either  side  of  the  coach.     The 
equipage   moves   on,   two   sowars   of  the   escort    trot    past, 
and  the  whole  party  disappears  into  the  night.     The  next 
morning  Chandah  was  fully  inspected,  and  the  Viceroy  can- 
tered into  our  new  camp,  with  his  escort  of  the  night  before, 
in  plenty  of  time  for  breakfast,  and  to  put  on  his  costume 
and   stars  for  the    State  opening  of  the  Lucie-Smith  coal- 


lucie-smith's  services  203 

mine.  As  we  received  him  on  alighting,  he  said  graciously 
to  the  local  magnate,  who  had  hardly  recovered  from  the 
shock  of  the  previous  evening,  "  I  was  delighted  with 
Chandah.  Most  interesting  place.  I  am  so  glad  you 
were  able  to  arrange  for  my  going  there.  Major  Lucie- 
Smith  has  done  a  great  work  there,  and  deserves  much 
credit."  As  he  passed  me  he  brushed  off  from  his  over- 
coat a  straw,  part  of  the  bedding  of  the  night  before,  and 
said  to  me  with  a  smile,  "  Excellent  conveyance  a  bullock- 
coach  ;    slept  splendidly.     So  glad  Bernard  managed  it." 

With  us  of  the  Viceroy's  party  there  was  much  merriment. 
The  lot  of  those  around  the  local  magnate  was  not  so  cheer- 
ful. We  drew  up  a  comic  programme  of  the  ceremony  of  the 
State  Opening  of  the  mines,  of  which  I  remember  so  much. 
The  Viceroy  was  with  a  pick  -  axe  to  hew  out  a  first 
specimen  of  coal  and  put  it  in  a  sack,  and  this  brought 
to  the  surface,  pieces  of  coal  were  to  be  distributed  among 
the  distinguished  persons  present  as  souvenirs.  This  done, 
the  head  of  the  Geological  Department  was  then  to  be  pre- 
sented with — the  sack. 

Of  the  cheery  party  that  sped  that  night  into  Chandah, 
two  out  of  the  three — Lord  Mayo  and  Sir  Charles  Bernard, 
two  of  the  noblest  characters  ever  known  in  India  —  are 
dead.  Lucie  -  Smith,  who  discovered  the  coal  and  ruled 
long  and  beneficently  in  Chandah,  still  lives.  And  as  he  is 
older  even  than  I  am,  he  must  have  attained  to  a  good 
old  age.  Lord  Mayo  marked  him  out  for  reward,1  and 
had   that   generous   master   lived,   the   good   service   of  the 

1  From  a  printed  paper  which  I  have  by  me,  dated  1885,  I  am  able  to  give  the 
following  statistics.  Lieutenant  Lucie-Smith  was  included  in  Lord  Canning's 
celebrated  despatch,  written  after  the  Mutiny,  regarding  officers  recommended  for 
reward,  and  was  then  recommended  for  the  honour  of  the  C.B.  Lord  Canning  in 
1859,  Lord  Lawrence  in  1864,  Lord  Northbrook  in  1874,  and  Lord  Lytton  in 
1876,  all  recommended  him  for  reward — the  C.S.I.  But  up  to  the  present  day  he 
has  received  no  recognition  of  his  services.  It  is  not  a  satisfactory  fact  that  if  an 
officer  fails  to  obtain  recognition  before  he  leaves  India  he  has  no  chance  later.  It 
often  happens  that  the  list  is  full  and  a  man  cannot  be  rewarded  before  retirement. 
His  name  should  not  be  forgotten  at  the  India  Office.  But  the  India  Office  will  do 
nothing  for  retired  officers,  and  a  Viceroy  has  his  own  men  to  attend  to,  and  cannot 
think  of  those  before  his  time,  and  whose  services  are  ancient  history.  That 
General  Lucie-Smith's  distinguished  services  have  never  yet  been  rewarded  is  a 
scandal,  which  ought  even  at  this  late  date  to  be  remedied. 


204  WITH    LORD    MAYO 

coal  -  finder  and  Chandah  restorer  would  never  have  been 
forgotten.  As  it  is,  Lucie -Smith,  now  a  General,  has  no 
letters  after  his  name,  although  I  and  many  hold  that  he 
earned  them  more  than  some  of  us  more  fortunate  and  less 
deserving  ones.  He  is  one  of  many  District  Officers  who 
have  done  eminent  service  and  have  gone  unrewarded,  whilst 
others,  who  lived  mostly  in  the  hills,  have  carried  off  the 
stars  and  ribbons.1  We,  old  friends  of  forty  years'  standing, 
have  not  yet  lost  sight  of  one  another.  Once  or  twice  in 
the  year  we  greet  one  another  through  the  post,  and  occa- 
sionally we  arrange  to  meet  and  have  a  hand  -  shake  and 
a  chat  over  old  Chandah  days.  And  the  memory  of  Lord 
Mayo  and  Bernard  is  not  then  forgotten.  The  General 
lives  in  a  beautiful  house  near  the  sea,  where  the  roses  of 
his  garden  are  as  dear  to  him  as  once  were  the  coal-mines 
of  his  youth  and  the  many  improvements  of  remote  Chandah. 
And  if  his  establishment  is  administered  with  half  the  vigour 
and  success  that  characterised  his  Chandah  reign,  that 
household  must  be  of  the  most  approved  model  type,  and 
the  admiration  of  the  neighbourhood !  Life  in  India,  alas ! 
has  some  demerits,  and  gives  one  many  a  heart-burn.  But 
it  has  one  solid  merit,  it  gives  one  in  exchange  many  a 
staunch  friend. 

From  Chandah  the  Viceroy  and  his  party,  I  being  still  of 
the  privileged  number,  went  on  to  Berar,  where  at  Khangaon 
His  Excellency  was  to  open  the  little  line  linking  the  cotton 
market  to  the  G.I. P.  Railway,  the  first  of  the  Indian  State 
lines.  Since  the  day  that  Lord  Mayo  did  me  the  un- 
precedented honour  of  entrusting  the  management  of  this 
important  venture  to  me,  the  Government  of  India  have 
undertaken  and  carried  out  some  thousands  of  miles  of 
State  Railways  in  India,  and  a  new  line  is  hardly  a  matter 

1  Alas  !  two  days  before  the  receipt  of  this  proof,  I  heard  that  my  dear  old  friend, 
who,  although  in  his  eighty-sixth  year,  had  been  well  and  hearty,  has  suddenly  been 
overcome  by  a  distressing  illness.  Although  he  is  still  alive,  he  is  hardly  in  a  state 
to  appreciate  even  the  highest  honours  were  they  suddenly,  but  tardily,  to  be 
lavished  on  him  !  So  thus  my  effort  to  bring  his  claims  under  notice  has  been 
of  no  avail. 


THE    FIRST   STATE    RAILWAY  205 

of  particular  importance  to  the  public  nowadays.  But  the 
opening  of  the  first  State  Railway  early  in  March  1870 
excited  interest  throughout  India.  The  making  of  the  rail- 
ways by  the  State  was  a  new  departure.  The  development 
of  the  cotton  trade  was  of  supreme  importance,  not  only 
to  the  Indian  districts,  but  to  our  home  trade,  and  also 
to  the  continent  of  Europe.  When  Lord  Mayo,  after 
the  ceremony  of  opening  the  line,  made  his  celebrated 
speech,  he  knew  that  his  audience  included  not  only  the 
representatives  of  British  houses  from  all  parts  of  India 
and  doing  business  with  Manchester,  but  a  polyglot  lot  of 
agents  and  merchants  from  France,  Germany,  Austria,  and 
Switzerland,  some  of  whom  had,  as  already  noticed,  set  up 
steam-presses  at  the  market,  and  sent  their  bales  direct  to 
various  foreign  ports.  Lord  Mayo  had  fully  redeemed  his 
promise,  made  to  the  Manchester  Chamber  of  Commerce 
before  leaving  England,  to  give  attention  to  the  require- 
ments of  the  trade,  and  every  recommendation  made  by 
me  in  its  interest  had  been  immediately  considered,  and 
invariably  promptly  sanctioned  when  proved  necessary. 
Sir  Owen  Burne,  in  his  interesting  '  Memories,'  says  truly 
that  the  speech  made  by  Lord  Mayo  on  that  occasion  was 
one  of  the  best  of  the  Viceroy's  many  excellent  utterances. 
It  was  very  well  received  in  India  and  at  home,  and  satisfied 
even  the  various  cotton  interests.  To  us  workers  it  was 
particularly  grateful.  Lord  Mayo  was  a  most  generous 
master.  Izat,  who  had  covered  himself  with  glory,  —  he, 
the  young  Local  Fund  engineer,  who,  at  Lyall's  suggestion, 
had  come  to  the  rescue,  and  helped  me  out  of  a  most 
serious  difficulty, — was  marked  out  for  immediate  promotion. 
Then  began  his  career  as  a  railway  engineer  of  the  first 
class.  In  India  he  held  some  high  State  appointments, 
but  gave  them  up  for  the  more  remunerative  management 
of  some  of  the  great  railway  lines.  He  has  long  been  known 
as  one  of  the  leading  authorities  on  Indian  railways,  and 
having  now  retired  from  the  country,  which  did  not  treat 
him    badly,   he  is  still   the    managing    director   at   home  of 


206  WITH    LORD    MAYO 

many  successful  projects.  I  was  fortunate  enough  to  be 
much  with  him  later  in  my  life,  when  he  was  a  great  man, 
the  head  of  the  railway  system  in  North -West  India,  and 
I  was  Colonel  of  the  Volunteers  on  his  lines  of  railway. 
Never  did  Izat  lose  an  opportunity,  at  Volunteer  banquets 
and  other  occasions,  of  exaggerating  what  I  had  done  for 
his  early  career,  and  ignoring  how,  with  his  energy  and 
resource,  he  had  saved  the  position  for  us  at  a  very  critical 
moment. 

Lord  Mayo  rewarded  me  in  various  ways,  and  recom- 
mended me  for  reward  elsewhere,  and  I  shall  always  pre- 
serve with  pride  what  he  so  generously  said  publicly  in  his 
speech.  He  took  me  away  from  under  the  Local  Govern- 
ments under  which  I  was  serving,  and  placed  me  directly 
under  the  Government  of  India  as  Commissioner  of  Cotton 
and  Commerce,  enlarging  my  responsibilities  and  increasing 
my  salary,  and  giving  me  the  enormous  advantage  of  working 
directly  under  his  orders  at  Calcutta  and  Simlah.  I  was 
going  rather  rapidly  in  those  days,  rather  too  rapidly,  and 
the  death  of  Lord  Mayo,  which  came  but  too  terribly  and 
soon,  put  what  was  probably  a  very  necessary  drag  on  my 
pace.  Lord  Mayo  bestowed  upon  me,  through  the  inter- 
vention of  his  marvel  of  a  Private  Secretary,  Sir  Owen,  then 
Major,  Burne,  who  found  out  everything  that  was  wanted, 
and  constantly  put  his  master  up  to  doing  graceful  and 
highly  appreciated  acts,  yet  another  most  valuable  benefit 
in  recognition  of  my  Khangaon  success.  I  had  as  my  per- 
sonal Assistant  or  Secretary,  as  it  would  be  called  in 
England,  Mr  Alexander  Dunlop,  a  man  much  too  good  for 
the  post,  who  had  done  excellent  work  for  me  and  the 
State.  He  was  the  son  of  the  Chairman  of  the  Glasgow 
Chamber  of  Commerce,  and  thus  had  a  knowledge  of,  and 
interest  in,  the  affairs  of  my  Department.  For  him  I  was 
anxious  to  secure  a  permanent  post  in  the  higher  ranks  of 
the  Civil  Service,  for  which  I  knew  his  abilities  well  fitted 
him.  The  Berar  Commission  would  be  a  splendid  opening. 
But  it  seemed  to  both  Dunlop  and  myself  almost  too  good 


INDIAN    PATRONAGE  207 

to  hope  for.  It  will  probably  be  hardly  understood  now- 
adays what  a  jump  this  would  mean  for  my  deserving 
Assistant.  If  appointed  to  the  Berar  Commission  he  would 
be  nearly  as  well  off,  quite  as  well  off  save  as  regards  pension, 
as  any  civil  servant  who  had  entered  the  service  by  com- 
petition. In  those  days  a  few,  very  few,  of  these  appoint- 
ments existed  (they  have  long  since  gone  the  way  of  all 
such  advantages),  and  were  the  very  valuable  patronage  of 
the  Viceroy.  "  That  is  what  I  call  patronage,"  said  a 
Governor  once  to  me,  who  had  a  large  family  for  whom 
he  wanted  posts.  "  I  don't  call  being  able  to  move  about 
a  number  of  Civil  Servants  from  one  post  to  another,  like 
pieces  on  a  chess  -  board,  patronage."  But  Burne  did  it 
for  us,  much  to  our  delight,  and  Lord  Mayo  said  to  me 
cheerily  one  morning,  "  Oh !  I  have  got  something  for  you 
that  Burne  tells  me  you  wanted,"  and  he  handed  to  me 
the  notification  of  Dunlop's1  appointment  to  the  Berar 
Commission.  And  Dunlop  has  ably  justified  my  selection, 
and  has  risen  to  the  highest  distinction  in  the  service,  having 
long  been  the  head  of  the  Revenue  Department  of  the 
Hyderabad  Government. 

The  Central  Provinces  having  been  visited,  and  the  little 
Khangaon  line  duly  honoured,  there  remained  yet  a  few 
days  before  the  Viceroy  was  due  at  Jubbulpore,  there  to 
meet  H.R.H.  the  Duke  of  Edinburgh,  and  open,  with 
befitting  ceremony,  the  railway  line,  now  completed  to  this 
point.  So  it  was  ordained  that  the  whole  party,  in  reward 
for  the  hard  work  of  the  past  few  weeks,  should  have  a  few 
days'  rest  in  the  jungles  of  the  Sauthpoorah  hills,  and  that 
the  Viceroy  should  shoot  a  splendid  tiger  that  had  been 
promised  to  him  in  the  Jubbulpore  district. 

1  It  may  be  mentioned  here  that  Dunlop  was  decorated  some  years  ago  with  the 
Order  of  the  Indian  Empire,  of  which  Izat  of  Khangaon  fame  is  also  a  member. 
Lord  Mayo  recommended  me  on  that  occasion  for  the  Companionship  of  the  Star 
of  India.  But  I  was  considered  too  young  for  it  at  the  time,  and  Lord  Mayo's 
death  and  subsequent  events  prevented  my  ever  attaining  to  that  honour.  Later, 
however,  my  good  friend  Burne,  who  had  come  out  with  Lord  Lytton  as  Private 
Secretary,  and  who  knew  what  work  I  had  done,  secured  for  me  the  Companionship 
of  the  Indian  Empire  in  the  first  list  on  the  institution  of  the  order  in  1877. 


208  WITH    LORD    MAYO 

And  now  has  to  be  related  the  somewhat  pathetic  story  of 
the  celebrated  "  Local  Fund  Tiger,"  as  he  was  named — per- 
haps the  most  expensive  tiger  ever  recorded  in  Indian  annals. 

Special  arrangements  had  been  made  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  our  rather  large  party  in  tents  in  a  beautiful  stretch 
of  forest  on  the  lower  spurs  of  the  Sauthpoorahs,  and  at 
some  ten  miles  distant  from  the  high-road.  And  hither  we 
all  hied  in  great  glee,  like  a  number  of  schoolboys  bent  on 
enjoying  a  holiday,  Lord  Mayo  himself  being  as  keen  and 
cheery  as  any  one  in  the  party. 

We  all  enjoyed  the  first  night's  rest  in  that  well- 
selected  camp,  and  were  pleased  to  hear  that  the  tiger 
was  marked  down  and  ready  for  us.  And  there,  poor 
old  fellow,  he  had  been  kept  in  the  lap  of  luxury  for  us, 
or  rather  for  the  Viceroy,  for  some  time  past.  One  of 
the  local  officers  connected  with  the  arrangements — which 
were  elaborate,  and  commensurate  with  their  importance — 
revealed  to  me  the  whole  scheme  before  we  retired  to  bed 
that  first  night  in  the  beautiful  camp  near  the  Pachmari 
hills.  This  tiger  was,  as  has  been  described  in  a  former 
chapter,  of  the  virtuous  type,  who  lived  peacefully  his  own 
life,  beloved  by  the  villagers,  and  quite  innocent  of  man-  or 
cattle-killing.  He  inhabited  a  narrow  valley  near  our  camp, 
and  living  on  the  game  there,  was  respected  by  the  villagers 
for  his  virtuous  conduct  and  magnificent  proportions.  This 
latter  quality,  unfortunately  for  him,  marked  him  out  as  a 
meet  sacrifice  for  the  Viceroy;  and  all  the  wisdom  of  the 
neighbourhood  was  brought  to  bear  to  keep  him  undisturbed 
in  his  quarters  until  Lord  Mayo  could  arrive  to  slay  him. 
For  this  purpose  the  valley  was  surrounded  by  a  small 
army  of  watchers,  to  prevent  the  tiger  going  too  far  afield. 
But  the  watchers,  although  they  tried  not  to  incommode 
the  tiger  personally,  disturbed  and  drove  away  the  game 
on  which  he  fed,  and  as  the  arrival  of  the  Viceroy  was  un- 
fortunately delayed,  it  became  necessary,  the  official  told 
me,  to  provide  relays  of  bullocks  for  the  tiger's  table. 
These    were    regularly    sent    out    from    the    neighbouring 


THE    SUFFERING    TIGER  200, 

villages,  the  cost  being  charged  to  "  Local  Funds,"  then  a 
milch  cow  of  the  district  authorities.  The  tiger,  it  appeared, 
had  at  first  taken  kindly  enough  to  this  change  of  diet. 
But  the  ease  with  which  it  was  put  into  his  mouth,  the 
loss  of  exercise  in  being  saved  the  trouble  of  securing  for 
himself  the  deer  and  other  big  game,  and  over-indulgence, 
perhaps,  in  the  daily-provided  bullock,  engendered  habits  of 
indolence  affecting  his  constitution,  so  that  the  watchers 
reported  to  headquarters  that  this  pet  tiger  was  getting  out 
of  condition,  and  showed  symptoms  of  knocking  up.  There 
had  even  been  traces  of  dysentery  noticeable  near  his 
favourite  walks.  The  position  was  getting  serious ;  the 
Viceroy,  though  delayed,  was  to  be  expected  within  a  week 
or  ten  days  :  there  was  no  time  to  arrange  for  a  substitute, 
and  if  this  choice  tiger  sickened  and  died  from  over-feeding, 
great  would  be  the  disappointment  from  the  Viceroy  down- 
wards. So  the  Civil  Surgeon  of  the  station  was  deputed 
to  the  spot,  accompanied  by  a  native  cattle -doctor,  and 
furnished  with  the  necessary  restoratives.  It  was  under- 
stood that,  with  the  help  of  some  opium  skilfully  introduced 
within  the  carcase  of  the  bullocks,  the  tiger  was  kept  on  his 
legs  until  our  long-delayed  arrival  at  last  gave  relief  to  all 
the  anxious  watchers  by  that  suffering  tiger's  hillside. 
The  Civil  Surgeon  had  been  unremitting  in  his  attentions, 
and  had  made  nearly  daily  visits  to  the  neighbourhood  of 
his  interesting  patient.  And  my  informant,  who  was  in 
charge  of  the  finances  of  the  district,  apprehended  a  very 
long  bill  from  that  medical  officer  for  travelling  allowances 
and  consultation  fees,  as  his  charges  were  to  be  on  the 
higher  scale,  the  doctor  claiming  that  he  had  been  acting 
throughout  in  consultation  with  his  native  colleague,  who 
must  be  considered  to  have  been  primarily  in  charge  of  the 
case.  "  But  confound  the  expense,"  said  the  cheery  Magis- 
trate, "here  you  are,  all  of  you;  and  our  well-fed  tiger, 
whatever  he  has  cost,  will  probably  give  the  Viceroy  to- 
morrow such  sport  as  he  has  never  before  seen  or  is  likely 
ever  again  to  behold." 

o 


210  WITH    LORD    MAYO 

On  the  morrow,  before  being  placed  in  our  machans  or 
stations,  we  were  all  carefully  instructed  by  the  chief 
local  authority  that  the  sport,  if  possible,  was  to  be  re- 
served for  the  Viceroy,  and  that  this  expensive  tiger  was 
not  to  be  fired  at  by  meaner  hands  save  as  a  last  neces- 
sity, such  as  to  prevent  his  getting  away  far  from  the 
august  presence.  We  all  loved  Lord  Mayo,  and  would 
have  each  done  his  utmost  to  secure  so  good  a  chief  fine 
sport.  He  himself,  the  best  of  sportsmen,  the  most  generous 
and  unselfish  of  men,  would  gladly  have  made  over  his 
chance  to  any  young  subaltern  or  youthful  assistant  who 
had  not  yet  seen  a  tiger,  had  any  such  been  in  camp.  And 
he  would  have  been  furious  had  he  known  that  arrange- 
ments which  he  would  have  voted  unsportsmanlike  were 
being  made  in  his  favour.  Still,  we  were  all  anxious  that 
His  Excellency  should  slay  that  tiger.  If  it  was  wounded 
by  any  one  of  us  whilst  trying  to  get  away,  Lord  Mayo 
was  immediately  to  be  placed  on  a  staunch  elephant  that 
was  in  waiting,  and  to  be  hurried  up  to  the  wounded  tiger, 
who,  splendid  fellow  as  he  was,  might  be  expected  to  make 
a  magnificent  fight,  showing  the  Viceroy  some  real  sport, 
and  justifying  the  time  and  expense  expended  in  his 
preparation  for  the  struggle.  But  it  was  not  fated  so  to  be. 
As  the  beaters  approached,  a  single  shot  was  heard  from 
the  extreme  left  flank  of  the  line,  and  the  shout  was  passed 
up,  "  Wounded  tiger  !  "  The  instructions  had  evidently 
been  carefully  observed,  and  the  gun  on  the  flank  had 
wounded  the  tiger  when  seen  sneaking  away,  and  had  thus 
prepared  him  for  a  battle -royal  with  the  elephant  and  its 
rider.  Lord  Mayo  was  hurried  on  to  the  howdah,  and  the 
elephant  taken  up  at  its  best  pace  to  where  the  tiger  was 
supposed  to  be  lying  wounded  and  ready  for  battle.  There 
he  was,  sure  enough  —  but  stone-dead,  and  with  no  ghost 
of  a  fight  left  in  him.  There  lay  this  magnificent  tiger,  the 
devourer  of  many  local-fund  bullocks,  and  their  worth  in 
rupees,  extended  at  full  length  on  his  back.  Running  the 
greater  length  of  that  part  of  the  body  was  what  resembled 


HIS    UNTOWARD    END  211 

a  huge  inflated  white  waistcoat,  to  such  proportions  had 
the  stomach  of  that  tiger  been  enlarged  by  insufficient 
exercise  and  over-feeding  on  the  bullocks  so  liberally  sup- 
plied by  the  Jubbulpore  local  funds,  and  doctored  to  his 
taste  by  the  Civil  Surgeon  and  his  assistant.  Coming  up, 
we  all  then  learnt  the  sad  story  of  the  sudden  and  too 
early  death  of  this  splendid  specimen  from  which  such 
great  things  had  been  expected.  One  of  the  party,  who 
was  on  the  extreme  left  of  the  line,  had  carefully  carried 
out  instructions.  Seeing  the  beast  slinking  off,  he  had  fired 
a  shot  to  stop  it,  with  no  intention  of  spoiling  sport,  and 
quite  innocent  of  any  idea  of  immediate  fatal  consequences. 
Unfortunately,  the  bullet  had  caught  the  tiger  on  the  nape 
of  the  neck,  just  where  the  head  is  joined  to  the  spinal 
cord,  and  hence  the  untoward  result.  The  Viceroy's  body 
surgeon,  who  was  of  the  party,  and  came  promptly  to  the 
spot,  felt  the  poor  beast's  pulse,  or  whatever  is  usual  under 
such  circumstances,  and  sadly  pronounced  life  to  be  entirely 
extinct.  He  would  not,  however,  express  a  decided  opinion 
as  to  whether  death  had  not  been  accelerated  by  full -habit 
and  apoplexy  induced  by  over-indulgence  in  butcher-meat. 

I  cantered  back  to  camp  ahead  of  most  of  the  party. 
The  unwilling  tiger- slayer  and  I  shared  a  large  double- 
poled  tent,  divided  down  the  middle  by  a  curtain.  I  found 
his  old  bearer  squatted  outside  and  brushing  up  his  master's 
evening  clothes.  "  Your  sahib  has  shot  the  big  tiger,"  I 
shouted  to  him.  But  he  gave  me  a  quiet  look  from  the 
corner  of  his  eye,  as  much  as  to  say,  "  You  don't  humbug 
me,  sahib."  When  I  repeated  the  information,  he  said, — 
his  master,  it  being  well  known,  being  no  sportsman, — "  I 
have  had  much  taklif  [trouble]  with  my  master  over  quail, 
and  I  know  he  never  killed  that  tiger."  An  hour  later, 
when  a  pad-elephant  deposited  the  huge  carcase  outside  the 
tent,  the  sceptical  old  fellow  was  as  haughty  as  if  he  had 
shot  that  huge  tiger  himself.  Thus  died,  prematurely,  the 
celebrated  Jubbulpore  Local  Fund  Tiger.  It  may  be 
doubted  whether  any  tiger  before  or  since  has  ever  cost  so 


212  WITH    LORD    MAYO 

much  money,  and  it  was  rumoured  that  the  Accountant- 
General  hesitated  for  some  time  before  passing  all  the 
charges  for  the  long  list  of  bullocks  supplied,  and  demurred 
to  the  heavy  consultation  fees  claimed  by  the  Civil  Surgeon 
on  his  many  difficult  visits  to  that  suffering  tiger's  hillside. 
I  must  now  close  my  tiger  stories  with  one  less  pathetic 
than  the  last,  relating  to  the  days  when  the  first  houses  for 
Europeans  were  being  built  on  the  now  well-covered  western 
slope  of  Malabar  Hill,  Bombay.  The  jungle  there  was  then 
thick,  and  wild  animals  abundant.  An  officer  of  the  Royal 
Engineers,  who,  engaged  on  the  works,  had  built  him  a 
bungalow  there,  was  alarmed  one  evening,  so  said  my  infor- 
mant, by  a  terrific  row  in  his  cook-house,  and  rushing  thither, 
found,  to  his  amazement,  a  tiger  in  possession  of  the  place. 
The  beast,  attracted  apparently  by  the  smell  of  the  viands, 
had  entered  the  house,  and  put  his  head  into  a  large  deckchi, 
or  copper  cooking-pot,  containing  meat.  Having  filled  his 
mouth  with  the  viands,  the  tiger,  who  had  squeezed  in  his 
head  with  difficulty,  found  it  even  more  difficult  to  extract 
his  swollen  neck  from  out  of  the  pot,  and  was  floundering 
and  blundering  blindfolded  about  the  place  when  the 
officer  opportunely  made  his  appearance.  A  shot,  fired  at 
close  quarters,  disposed  of  that  tiger.  My  informant  added 
that  he  was  called  in  later  to  see  that  muzzled  tiger,  and  that 
the  copper  pot  had  got  so  tightly  welded  on  to  the  beast's 
swollen  neck,  that  it  had  to  be  chopped  off  from  the  carcase  ! 
Some  will,  perhaps,  hold  that  this  is  a  companion  picture  to 
the  lantern-slide  of  one's  childhood,  "  The  Tale  of  a  Tub," 
noticed  among  my  Chandah  experiences.  But  when  I  state 
that  my  informant  was  no  other  than  my  dear  old  friend  the 
late  Right  Rev.  Dr  James  Wilson,  the  well-known  missionary, 
the  Vice-Chancellor  of  the  University  of  Bombay,  who  him- 
self was  in  at  the  death,  it  will  be  recognised  that  this  is 
no  traveller's  tale,  but  is  supported  indeed  by  the  highest 
credible  authority. 


213 


CHAPTER    X. 

WORK    UNDER  -LORD    MAYO — HIS   ASSASSINATION. 
1872. 

Sir  Henry  Durand  goes  to  the  Punjab  as  Lieutenant-Governor — I  am 
appointed  Commissioner  of  Cotton  and  Commerce  with  the  Govern- 
ment of  India — At  Simlah — Franco-German  War — Lord  Napier's 
view  of  probable  effect — '  Alice  in  Wonderland  '  dramatised  by  us 
at  Simlah — Lord  Mayo  and  his  household  assist — Great  success — 
Interview  with  uninvited  "plunger" — Death  of  Sir  Henry  Durand 
— Foreign  visitors — Employed  as  cicerone — Russian  Mission — 
Austrian  Mission — Appointed  Knight  Grand  Commander  of  Order 
of  Francis  Joseph — General  Vlangaly,  Russian  Minister — His  ideas 
about  dangers  on  the  road — Monsieur  Jacques  Siegfried  deputed  by 
the  Emperor  Napoleon — Peace  by  establishing  strong  commercial 
relations — Germans  find  M.  Siegfried's  Report  on  Emperor's  table 
at  Fontainebleau — Our  visit  to  the  Chateau  de  Langais,  since  gifted 
to  the  French  nation — Lord  Mayo  on  infallibility  of  a  Viceroy — 
Correspondent  of  '  The  Times  '  temporarily — Of  '  The  Manchester 
Guardian  ' — Sir  George  Campbell  and  Sir  Charles  Bernard — Ber- 
nard not  in  accord  with  Campbell's  policy — Leaves  Secretariat 
believing  Campbell  his  enemy — Campbell  chooses  Bernard  as 
Secretary  for  Bengal — Asks  me  to  sound  Lord  Mayo — Bernard's 
astonishment — Appointed  Secretary — His  immense  success  and 
merits — The  Kipling  family — Mr  Lockwood  Kipling  at  School  of 
Art,  Bombay — Young  Rudyard's  early  theological  ideas — His  later 
contributions  to  '  The  Pioneer  ' — Mr  Lockwood  Kipling  undertakes 
for  me  sketches  of  Indian  craftsmen — His  visit  to  us  at  Simlah — 
High  price  realised  for  copy  of  Rudyard's  early  poems — Sketches 
of  Lord  Mayo — 'Master  Terence  in  possession — His  discretion — 
Lady  Connemara's  story  of  Lord  Dalhousie's  only  confidante  in 
India — With  Lord  Mayo  in  Calcutta  in  January  1872 — Dine  with 
him  on  last  evening — His  conversation  with  my  wife — Good-bye — 
Assassination  of  Lord  Mayo — Universal  sorrow — His  lovable 
character  and  success  as  Viceroy — Qualifications  required  for  the 
office — Lord  Minto's  resemblance  to  Lord  Mayo. 

My  constant  presence  in  the  cotton  country  becoming  now 
less  necessary,   it  was  ordained  that   I   should  spend  what 


214  WORK   UNDER   LORD   MAYO 

time  could  be  spared  at  Simlah,  or  near  Government  head- 
quarters, so  that  I  could  personally  advise  on  questions 
relating  to  the  trade  that  arose  in  India,  or  were  referred  to 
the  Government  from  home.  Early  in  the  summer  of  1870 
Sir  Henry  Durand,  being  appointed  Governor  of  the  Punjab, 
left  Simlah,  and  made  over  to  us  his  beautiful  house  there,  the 
Observatory  near  Government  House,  and  which  since  our 
time  has  become  the  residence  of  the  Viceroy's  Private  Secre- 
tary. There  I  removed  with  part  of  my  office,  and  George 
Hart,1  an  able  nephew  of  Sir  Bartle  Frere's,  who  had 
succeeded  Dunlop  as  my  Private  Secretary.  At  Simlah  I 
spent  much  of  the  close  season  in  constant  communication 
with  Lord  Mayo,  who  treated  me  almost  as  one  of  his  per- 
sonal staff.  It  was  an  exciting  year.  In  July  the  inevitable 
war  between  Germany  and  France  broke  out,  and  at  Simlah, 
as  elsewhere,  the  telegrams  announcing  its  progress  were 
awaited  with  the  keenest  interest.  These  telegrams  were 
printed  and  distributed  among  the  Members  of  Council  and 
the  Viceroy's  personal  staff,  and  the  Observatory  was  included 
in  the  privilege.  On  the  day  of  the  receipt  of  the  news  of 
the  declaration  of  war  I  happened  to  be  at  Government 
House,  and  Lord  Mayo,  as  he  would  sometimes  do,  invited 
me  to  accompany  him  on  his  evening  ride.  Soon  after 
leaving  the  house  we  met  Lord  Napier  of  Magdala,  who  had 
recently  come  up  to  Simlah  as  Commander-in-Chief  in  India. 
"  Well,  my  Lord,"  said  Lord  Mayo,  "  what  think  you  of  this 
news  ?  "  "  The  war  is  bound  to  be  a  most  terrible  one," 
answered  the  soldier.  "  What  I  have  been  thinking  of  is  the 
effect  that  the  result  will  have  on  our  interests.  The  general 
sympathy  seems  to  be  with  the  French.  Well,  if  they 
succeed,  we  must  be  prepared  for  the  excitable  victors  turn- 
ing their  attention  to  us  in  the  hope  of  wiping  out  old  scores. 
On  the  other  hand,  if  Germany  wins,  we  have  nothing  to 


1  Mr  George  Hart,  late  Comptroller-General  to  the  Government  of  India.  After 
leaving  me  he  served  as  Private  Secretary  to  Sir  Richard  Temple,  then  to  the 
Governor  of  Bombay,  and  lastly  as  Private  Secretary  to  Lord  Northbrook,  Governor- 
General. 


'ALICE'    DRAMATISED  215 

fear.  They  are  almost  of  our  own  blood,  are  solid  and 
reliable,  and  will  never  want  to  give  us  any  trouble."  This 
view  seemed,  at  the  time,  entirely  sound.  How  astonished 
would  these  two  distinguished  men  be  if  they  could  realise 
the  position  of  these  three  nations  in  this  the  year  of  grace 
1909! 

As  our  house  at  Simlah  was  large,  we  bethought  ourselves 
of  an  entertainment,  in  acknowledgment  of  all  the  hospitality 
shown  to  us  young  married  people  at  Simlah.  With  the  aid 
of  Hart,  my  Private  Secretary,  we  determined  to  dramatise 
'Alice  in  Wonderland,'  then  much  in  vogue,  and  which  up  to 
that  time  had  not  been  put  on  the  stage.  Lord  Mayo  most 
kindly  undertook  to  help  us  in  every  way,  and  all  the  staff 
joined  in  the  idea  most  merrily.  They  were,  like  unto  their 
chief,  a  happy  and  amusing  lot  at  that  time  at  Government 
House,  and  certain  to  make  the  venture  a  success.  For 
the  part  of  Alice  we  had  the  good  fortune  to  secure 
Miss  Norman  (now  Lady  Newmarch),  sister  of  Sir  Henry 
Norman.  She  was  pretty,  fair,  and  petite,  and  with  her 
hair  down  her  back,  hardly  looked,  on  the  other  side  of 
the  footlights,  the  years  of  Alice.  As  Father  William, 
to  stand  on  his  head,  we  had  Captain  Scott,  a  brother  of 
Lady  Napier  of  Magdala.  He  was  a  noted  acrobat,  and 
stood  on  his  head  most  successfully.  Lord  Naas  (now  Lord 
Mayo)  had  in  those  days  an  excellent  shock-head  of  hair,  and 
got  himself  up  perfectly  as  a  ploughboy.  Hart  was,  among 
other  characters,  the  Caterpillar,  and  aided  me  in  a  variety 
of  duties  on  and  off  the  stage.  Lord  Mayo's  Private  Secre- 
tary— Major,  later  Sir  Owen,  Burne — was  the  March  Hare, 
with  excellent  movable  ears.  Harry  Lockwood,  my  cousin, 
one  of  the  aides-de-camp,  was  the  Mad  Hatter.  Lord 
Lascelles  (now  Lord  Harewood)  was  the  Dormouse ;  and 
Terence  Bourke,  then  very  young,  who  clamoured  for  a 
place,  was  eventually  appeased  by  having  assigned  to  him 
the  important  part  of  one  of  the  spectators  in  the  trial  scene. 
Lord  Mayo  gave  us  every  aid  from  Government  House,  send- 
ing over  his  European  servants  and  the  necessary  workmen 


2l6  WORK    UNDER   LORD    MAYO 

to  assist.  A  few  days  before  the  event,  when  I  was  at 
Government  House  on  business,  Lord  Mayo  jokingly  said  to 
me,  "  You  have  demoralised  the  whole  of  my  establishment  : 
my  Private  Secretary  is  away,  rehearsing,  I  am  told.  I  never 
see  my  aides-de-camp  now,  and  Naas,  and  even  little  Terence 
of  tender  years,  are  taken  from  me  !  When  does  this  enter- 
tainment of  yours  come  off?  And,  by  the  way,  I  have 
received  no  invitation  as  3'et."  I  replied,  "  No,  sir;  it  is  not 
etiquette  to  invite  the  Viceroy."  "  Anyhow,"  said  Lord 
Mayo,  "  I  suppose  it  is  permitted  by  etiquette  for  the  Viceroy 
to  ask  himself?  I  should  like  to  see  that  little  scamp  Terence 
act,  he  is  so  full  of  it."  I  told  His  Excellency  how  delighted 
my  wife  and  I  would  be  if  he  would  honour  us.  And  he 
answered,  "  I  come."  I  thought  it  necessary  to  add,  "  I 
should  mention,  sir,  we  are,  as  you  know,  quite  young 
people,  and  this  is  quite  a  small  affair, — no  champagne, 
or  anything  of  that  sort."  "  Champagne,"  said  Lord 
Mayo,  —  "they  let  me  have  as  much  of  that  as  I  want 
at  Government  House,  and,  as  a  fact,  I  seldom  touch  it. 
Lascelles  tells  me  you  give  them  good  hock  and  seltzer ; 
I  shall  be  quite  content  with  that."  So  the  Viceroy  duly 
came  to  that  party.  Everything  went  off  splendidly.  Alice 
looked  and  acted  the  part  to  perfection.  Old  Father  William 
stood  on  his  head  long  enough  to  dispose  of  all  his  brains. 
The  Hatter  and  the  March  Hare  and  the  Caterpillar  all 
distinguished  themselves  in  their  respective  roles.  With  the 
Dormouse,  unfortunately,  there  was  nearly  a  catastrophe  to 
the  heir  of  Harewood.  He  it  was  who  did  the  Dormouse,  and 
for  him  we  had  provided  a  splendid  teapot, — a  tub,  covered 
with  silver  paper,  in  which  the  Dormouse  was  to  be  duly 
suppressed.  He  was  carefully  bundled  into  the  teapot  by  two 
brother  aides-de-camp.  But,  unluckily,  as  part  of  his  fur 
stuck  out,  it  was  held  that  he  was  not  properly  "  suppressed." 
So  the  Mad  Hatter  immediately  began  to  jump  on  him,  just 
as  one  might  on  a  pair  of  trousers  that  would  not  decently 
go  into  a  portmanteau.  And  the  results  nearly  ended  disas- 
trously in  spinal  dislocation ! 


AN    UNAWAITED    GUEST  217 

After  the  play  we  all  danced,  Lord  Mayo  joining,  and,  as 
ever,  delighting  every  one  with  whom  he  came  in  contact. 
Later  in  the  evening,  I  had  taken  my  partner  to  the  buffet 
to  get  her  some  refreshment,  when  a  burly  pompous  sort  of 
fellow  pushed  by  me,  and  taking  up  a  tumbler  said  to  one  of 
the  men  who  were  serving,  "  Simkin  do,"  which  in  the  lan- 
guage of  the  country  means,  "  Give  me  champagne."  The 
servant  replied  respectfully,  "  Khadawand,  Simkin  na  hai," 
which,  being  interpreted,  means,  "Lord  of  the  World,  there 
is  no  champagne."  Whereupon  the  plunger,  for  such  I  cor- 
rectly diagnosed  him  to  be,  turning  to  me,  said,  "  Did  you 
ever  in  your  life  see  anything  so  infernally  mean  ?  The  Vice- 
roy and  everybody  in  the  place  here,  and  no  champagne  !  " 
I  fear  I  was  perhaps  unnecessarily  nasty  and  inhospitable,  but 
not  knowing  the  man,  replied,  "  Well,  you  see,  Lord  Mayo 
told  me  he  could  do  without  champagne,  and  I  did  not  know 
that  you  were  coming."  The  unfortunate  fellow  collapsed  and 
retreated,  whilst  several  who  had  overheard  the  conversation 
soon  sent  the  story  all  round  the  room.  I  found  out  afterwards 
that  the  offender  was  a  plunger,  a  man  much  disliked  in  his  (a 
British  cavalry)  regiment,  the  son  of  some  candlestick-maker, 
or  such  sort,  who  had  been  brought  to  the  party  by  a  friend, 
who  had  omitted  to  introduce  him  to  the  host  and  hostess. 
Years  ago,  it  was  the  practice  of  some  people,  who  had  been 
successful  behind  the  counter,  to  put  a  son  in  a  cavalry 
regiment  in  the  hope  that  he  might  get  there  the  status  of  a 
gentleman.  And  all  such  would  naturally  regard  with  right- 
eous contempt  those  who,  however  good  their  blood,  had  to 
serve  in  India  owing  to  their  family  not  having  been  success- 
fully engaged  in  shopkeeping. 

On  the  eve  of  the  New  Year  of  1871  Sir  Henry  Durand 
met  with  the  lamentable  accident  which  resulted  the  next 
day  in  his  death,  and  deprived  the  Punjab  of  an  able  and 
vigorous  Governor.  We  were  at  the  time  at  Allahabad, 
where  my  central  office  had  now  been  established,  and  we 
started  at  once  for  Lahore,  and  stayed  with  my  good  friend 
Lepel  Griffin,  who  showed  to  the  family  the  greatest  sym- 


2l8  WORK   UNDER   LORD    MAYO 

pathy  in  the  terrible  blow  that  had  fallen  on  them.  My 
father,  the  Admiral,  died  at  about  the  same  time  at  a  fair 
old  age.  During  the  rest  of  the  year  I  was  moving  about, 
at  Calcutta,  Simlah,  Berar,  Bombay  in  turns,  occupied  on 
a  variety  of  duties  on  which  the  Viceroy  from  time  to  time 
employed  me.  Sir  Stuart  Hogg,  who  had  been  my  Collector 
at  Burdwan,  and  was  now  the  Chief  Magistrate  in  Calcutta, 
told  me  that  Lord  Mayo  had  said  to  him,  "  A  merit  that 
Rivett-Carnac  has  is,  that  if  you  tell  him  something  is 
wanted,  he  gets  it  done  somehow  or  other,  and  does  not 
spare  himself."  This  was  a  fair  estimate  at  the  time.  There 
was  no  concealing  the  fact  that  my  part  as  Cotton  Com- 
missioner was  nearly  played  out.  The  trade,  thanks  to  the 
floods  of  silver  poured  into  the  country  in  payment  for  the 
cotton,  had  made  great  advances.  The  difficulties  that  had 
at  first  beset  the  Europeans  in  establishing  themselves  up- 
country  had  been  mostly  removed  during  the  years  of  my 
tenure  of  the  office.  And  with  the  support  of  the  Govern- 
ment I  had  been  able  to  show  some  results.  I  was  now 
much  in  the  position  of  a  family  tutor,  whose  pupils  having 
grown  up,  there  remains  little  need  of  his  care  and  super- 
vision. Still,  I  had  my  hands  pretty  full  with  a  variety  of 
other  duties.  As  Commissioner  of  Commerce  I  had  to  do 
cicerone  to  the  several  Commissions  sent  out  to  India  to 
report  on  trade  prospects.  This  included  one  from  Russia, 
which  contemplated  the  establishment  of  a  line  of  steamers 
from  Odessa  to  Calcutta.  The  Austrian  expedition  sent 
round  the  world  also  visited  India,  and  I  made  the  acquaint- 
ance of  my  friend  Herr  Arthur  von  Scala,  who  was  already 
proving  himself  useful  in  the  Austrian  commercial  bureau. 
At  the  close  of  this  duty  H.M.  the  Emperor  of  Austria 
was  pleased  to  confer  on  me  the  Grand  Commandership 
of  the  Order  of  Francis  Joseph.  And  I  had  to  escort 
across  India  General  Vlangaly,  the  Russian  Minister  at 
Pekin,  who  had  made  an  adventurous  journey  to  the  Punjab 
through  Siberia,  —  a  very  different  journey  fifty  years  ago 
to  what  it  has    now  become.      We  had  to  travel  between 


DISTINGUISHED    VISITORS  210, 

Jubbulpore  and  Nagpore  by  the  ancient  dak-gharry,  the 
railway  being  still  incomplete.  The  General  seemed  im- 
pressed with  the  idea  that  India  being  held  by  the  sword, 
there  must  be  troops  to  be  found  at  every  step,  though 
they  were  kept  judiciously  out  of  sight.  When  we  stopped 
for  luncheon  a  couple  of  hours  out  of  Jubbulpore,  he  said 
he  would  like  to  see  the  post,  and  evidently  expected  a 
small  fort,  garrisoned  with  soldiers,  employed  in  keeping 
the  road  open.  He  hardly  believed  me  when  I  assured 
him  that  no  soldier  was  to  be  found  between  Jubbulpore 
and  Nagpore,  and  that  there  were  hardly  even  any  native 
police  employed  on  the  road.  But  before  he  reached 
Nagpore  he  ascertained  that  he  had  not  been  hoodwinked. 
He  held  afterwards  the  chief  post  at  the  Russian  Foreign 
Office,  and  I  met  him  recently  on  the  Continent,  just  before 
his  death  at  an  advanced  age. 

Another  interesting  visitor,  who  was  some  time  with  me 
in  camp  and  made  a  careful  inquiry  into  trade  prospects, 
was  Monsieur  Jacques  Siegfried,  since  well  known  in  the 
financial  world,  then  partner  in  a  firm  at  Havre  and  at 
Miilhausen,  which  had  a  branch  in  Bombay.  He  wrote 
a  well-known  book,  '  Autour  du  Monde,'  in  which,  after 
duly  immortalising  me,  he  concluded  the  chapter  describing 
our  adieux  by  inquiring,  "  When  and  where  shall  I  again 
meet  Mr  Rivett-Carnac? "  Arriving  at  Paris  a  couple  of 
years  afterwards,  I  bought  at  the  railway  bookstall  a  copy 
of  his  work,  and  marking  the  passage,  added,  "  Demain, 
quatre  heures  et  demie,  Hotel  Meurice."  Afterwards  he 
never  failed  to  open  to  us  the  hospitality  of  the  magnificent 
Chateau  de  Langais,  on  the  Loire,  where  Anne  of  Brittany 
was  married  to  Charles  VIII.  of  France  in  1491.  Monsieur 
Siegfried  died  within  the  last  few  weeks,  and  left  the 
splendid  chateau  with  its  carefully  collected  contents  to 
the  French  nation.  My  visitor  told  me  that  the  Emperor 
Napoleon  had  confided  to  him  the  duty  of  reporting  con- 
fidentially on  the  prospects  of  extending  trade  with  India. 
The  Emperor  had  said,  so  my  informant  told  me  :  "  Batteries 


220  WORK   UNDER   LORD    MAYO 

of  French  commerce  all  over  the  world  will  help  to  ensure 
peace  much  more  than  the  creation  of  an  equal  number  of 
thoroughly  equipped  batteries  of  artillery.  For,"  said  he, 
"these  firms  once  started,  many  interests  will  be  established 
that  will  all  be  in  favour  of  peace.  War  will  mean  to  them 
the  stoppage  of  business  and  ruin."  Monsieur  Siegfried's 
visit  took  place  just  before  the  war  broke  out.  His  report 
to  the  Emperor,  which  he  wrote  and  sent  home  as  he 
went  along,  was,  I  read  afterwards,  found  by  the  Germans 
in  the  drawer  of  the  Emperor's  writing-table  when  Fon- 
tainebleau  was  taken. 

During  all  this  time  I  had  constant  opportunities  of  notic- 
ing Lord  Mayo's  methods  of  work  and  appreciating  the 
cheery  considerateness  with  which  he  treated  all  his  sub- 
ordinates, and  which  resulted  in  his  being  beloved  by  them 
all,  and  in  his  being  able  to  command  the  willing  service 
of  every  one  who  came  in  contact  with  him.  He  did  not 
attempt  to  assume  that  he  knew  everything,  and  one  morn- 
ing he,  in  a  state  of  high  glee,  desired  me  to  note  how  a 
Viceroy  had  to  learn  he  was  not  infallible.  I  found  him  and 
Burne  laughingly  bundling  out  of  the  room  a  number  of 
large  office-boxes  which  had  been  carried  up  in  procession 
by  half  a  dozen  chuprassies  from  the  Public  Works  Office. 
"  See  the  lesson  General  Strachey  has  taught  me,"  says 
the  Viceroy.  "  I  said  to  him  yesterday,  '  I  cannot  under- 
stand why  such  and  such  a  system  is  not  adopted  in 
India.'  '  Would  hardly  suit  our  requirements,  sir,'  answers 
Strachey.  '  Why  not  ? '  says  I.  '  I  am  sure  it  would  do. 
Has  it  ever  been  tried  ? '  '  No,'  says  Strachey,  '  but  it 
has  been  discussed.'  '  Well,'  said  I,  rather  aggrieved, 
'  I  should  just  like  to  see  all  that  has  been  said  on  the 
subject.'  '  Your  Excellency's  wishes  shall  be  attended 
to,'  says  Strachey,  and  this  morning  he  has  filled  up 
my  room  with  this  procession  of  chuprassies  with  boxes, 
showing  by  their  contents  that  what  I  in  my  wisdom 
thought  immediately  applicable  to  the  country  had  been 
thoroughly  thought   out  and  discussed  by  the  best  men  in 


BERNARD  AND  CAMPBELL  221 

India  and  proved  to  be  utterly  unsuitable.  So  much  for 
the  value  of  my  ideas !  " 

During  this  time  I  acted  occasionally  as  correspondent 
of  '  The  Times.'  Later  I  was  offered  the  permanent  post. 
But  the  difficulties  connected  with  my  not  always  being 
at  headquarters,  and  the  objection  to  a  Government  official 
expressing  his  opinion  on  political  questions,  were  against 
my  undertaking  the  duty.  I  was,  however,  for  years  the 
correspondent  of  '  The  Manchester  Guardian,'  my  contribu- 
tions being  confined  to  trade  subjects,  and  not  touching 
on  the  personal  or  political.  With  the  assistance  of  my 
good  friend  Mr  C.  P.  Scott,  M.P.,  I  was  able,  with  the 
aid  of  the  money  thus  received,  to  help  several  others,  and 
to  educate  the  son  of  a  friend,  who  has  since  attained  to 
a  high  position  in  his  profession. 

The  account  of  my  service  under  Lord  Mayo,  to  my  mind 
the  most  interesting  of  my  many  duties  in  India,  will  now 
soon  draw  to  a  close.  But  I  must  include  the  following 
notice  of  an  incident  which,  besides  indicating  the  sort  of 
confidential  duty  on  which  I  was  occasionally  employed,  will 
help  to  illustrate  the  characters  of  two  very  distinguished 
men  in  my  service  with  whom  I  was  on  intimate  terms,  and 
both  of  whom,  it  will  be  seen,  I  had  good  reason  to  respect. 
The  one  was  Sir  George  Campbell,  Lieutenant-Governor 
of  Bengal ;  the  other  my  Haileybury  contemporary  and 
lifelong  friend,  Sir  Charles  Edward  Bernard. 

Of  Bernard,  when  some  years  ago  his  son  Arthur,  then 
at  Eton,  was  the  hero  of  the  day  in  the  match  against 
Winchester,  I  published  in  a  sporting  paper  a  skit,  "The 
Eton  Bowler,"  which  treated  chiefly  of  Bernard  pere,  and 
which  was  pronounced  by  our  mutual  friend  General  Trevor, 
V.C.,  R.E.,  to  be  a  fairly  accurate  sketch  of  the  character 
of  this  most  admirable  man.  In  it  I  related  from  my 
personal  knowledge  the  following  incident : — 

My  wife  and  I  were  then  in  Calcutta.  George  Campbell x 
had  recently  arrived  there  as  Lieutenant-Governor  of  Bengal. 

1  The  late  Sir  George  Campbell,  K.C.S.I.,  and  M.P.  for  the  Kirkcaldy  Burghs. 


222  WORK   UNDER    LORD    MAYO 

He  had  succeeded  Temple  before  this  as  Chief  Commissioner 
of  the  Central  Provinces.  There,  after  the  manner  of  many 
others,  Campbell  had  been  inclined  to  be  critical  of  some 
of  his  predecessors'  schemes.  Bernard,  who  had  been 
taken  over  as  Secretary  by  the  new  regime,  and  was  most 
loyal  to  his  old  chief,  found  himself  constantly  in  conflict 
with  the  new  Chief  Commissioner,  and  became  impressed 
with  the  idea  that  Campbell  abhorred  him.  Of  this  I  heard 
in  the  letters  occasionally  received  from  Bernard,  and  I 
was  not  surprised  when,  after  a  time,  he  told  me  he  had 
resigned  the  Secretariat  for  the  more  congenial  post  of 
Commissioner  of  Division.  Soon  after  this  Campbell  left 
for  Bengal,  and  Lord  Mayo,  making  the  tour  in  the  Central 
Provinces  described  in  chapter  ix.,  saw  much  of  Bernard, 
and  did  not  fail  to  appreciate  his  splendid  qualities. 

One  morning,  after  our  return  from  tour,  Campbell  attended 
a  meeting  of  the  Legislative  Council  in  his  capacity  of  Lieu- 
tenant-Governor, and  remained  to  luncheon  with  Lord  Mayo. 
I  happened  to  be  at  Government  House  on  business,  and,  as 
was  often  the  case,  was  also  bidden  to  remain  to  luncheon. 
Before  leaving,  the  Lieutenant-Governor  came  up  to  me 
and  asked  me  to  drive  down  with  him  to  his  Government 
House,  Belvedere,  just  outside  Calcutta.  When  in  the 
carriage  he,  to  my  astonishment,  commenced  the  conversa- 
tion with,  "  You  are,  I  know,  an  intimate  friend  of  that 
most  excellent  man,  Bernard "  (him  whom  I  supposed 
Campbell  held  in  abhorrence  !).  I  assented,  saying  I  thought 
Bernard  one  of  the  very  best  of  men,  and  was  delighted 
to  hear  an  appreciation  of  him.  "  Well,"  continued  the 
Lieutanant-Governor,  to  my  further  amazement,  "  you  know 
I  have  to  appoint  a  new  Chief  Secretary  to  the  Government 
of  Bengal,  and  I  want,  if  possible,  to  secure  Bernard  for  the 
place."  I  was  astounded.  The  Civilian  of  Lower  Bengal 
was  the  most  conservative  of  conservatives,  and  had  for 
generations  ruled  the  roost  throughout  the  whole  service. 
He  was  credited  with  having  no  small  contempt  for  the 
civilian  in  other  Provinces,  and  the  most  utter  detestation 


AN  AUDACIOUS  PROPOSAL  223 

of  those  in  non-regulation  Provinces  like  Nagpore.  To  pass 
over  all  the  chosen  of  the  Province,  and  to  bring  down  to 
Calcutta  from  the  jungles  a  comparatively  junior  man,  and 
to  put  him  as  Chief  Secretary  over  the  heads  of  numerous 
men  of  high  reputation,  who  considered  themselves  to  be 
quite  the  leading  lights  of  society  and  the  service,  seemed  to 
me  to  be  almost  too  audacious  to  come  within  what  was  then 
termed  "the  sphere  of  practical  politics."  "Well,"  con- 
tinued Campbell,  "  I  know  Lord  Mayo  has  formed  a  very 
high  ! opinion  of  Bernard,  as  he  told  me  so  the  other  day 
when  talking  over  his  Central  Province  tour."  I  said  I  also 
knew  this  to  be  the  case.  "  Well,"  continued  he,  "  I  know 
you  would  be  glad  to  help  Bernard.  You  see  Lord  Mayo 
often,  now  that  the  affairs  of  your  Department  are  under 
discussion.  Will  you  ascertain  for  me  whether  there  is  any 
chance  of  Lord  Mayo  assenting  if  I  apply  for  Bernard  as 
Chief  Secretary  ?  "  I,  of  course,  gladly  accepted  the  duty, 
and  went  off  at  once  to  my  friend,  Owen  Burne,  the  im- 
maculate Private  Secretary,  and  related  to  him  my  marvellous 
story.  Burne  good-naturedly  said  I  should  have  the  whole 
credit  of  the  undertaking,  and  that  he  would  not  breathe 
a  word  of  it  until  after  I  had  seen  Lord  Mayo  the  next  day 
on  some  business  for  which  I  had  been  summoned.  At  the 
close  of  my  audience  I  told  the  Viceroy  of  what  had  occurred. 
Lord  Mayo  was  utterly  amazed,  and  gave  a  prolonged  whistle. 
"  Bring  Bernard  down  among  these  Bengalis,  and  put  him 
over  their  heads,"  said  he, — "what  an  experiment!  Why, 
they  will  tear  both  Campbell  and  Bernard  to  pieces."  I 
dwelt  on  Bernard's  immense  merits,  in  which  Lord  Mayo 
agreed.  Then  Burne  came  in,  and  suggested  that  Campbell 
and  Bernard  united  could  hold  their  own.  I  mentioned 
that  Campbell  had  said  that  in  three  months'  time  Bernard 
would  conquer  all  opposition,  and  would  win  the  hearts 
and  respect  of  every  one.  "  But  the  three  first  months  will 
be  difficult,"  remarked  Lord  Mayo.  Then  we  all  three  ex- 
pressed our  amazement  at  Campbell's  selecting  Bernard, 
with  whom  he  was  supposed  to  be  on  the  worst  of  terms. 


224  WORK    UNDER   LORD    MAYO 

And  Lord  Mayo  pronounced  that  the  result  was  most  credit- 
able to  both  men.  It  was  then  decided  that  His  Excellency 
should  discuss  the  matter  with  the  Lieutenant-Governor 
the  next  day,  and  I  went  off  at  once  to  Campbell  to  tell 
him  that  the  outlook  was  far  from  unfavourable.  In  the 
afternoon  Campbell  drove  up  to  my  house  to  tell  me  that 
the  arrangement  had  been  settled,  and  asked  me  to  write 
to  Bernard  and  ascertain  whether  he  would  be  willing  to 
come  down  to  Calcutta  at  once  as  Chief  Secretary  to  the 
Government  of  Bengal. 

Bernard  was  out  in  camp  when  my  letter  arrived.  We 
constantly  corresponded,  and  when  he  was  busy,  Mrs  Ber- 
nard, as  she  then  was,  who  had  long  been  one  of  my  most 
valued  friends,  would  occasionally  answer  me.  So  she 
opened  the  letter  before  sending  it  on  to  Bernard  in  camp. 
They  have  since  often  told  me  of  their  amazement,  and  how 
at  first  they  supposed  the  whole  thing  must  be  a  joke  on 
my  part,  so  persuaded  were  they  that  Campbell  regarded 
Bernard  as  a  pet  abomination.  Bernard,  too,  was  rather 
dismayed  at  first  by  the  audaciousness  of  the  proposal ;  but 
backed  as  he  was  by  the  Viceroy  and  the  Lieutenant- 
Governor,  he  considered  it  to  be  his  duty  to  accept  the 
appointment.  He  was,  of  course,  the  most  pronounced 
success.  In  three  months'  time  he  was  respected  and 
trusted  by  the  whole  service  in  Lower  Bengal.  And  when 
Campbell's  successor  later  on  thought  to  please  the  civilians 
of  the  Province  by  shunting  Bernard,  he  met  with  the 
greatest  opposition  from  the  very  men  who  not  so  long 
before  were  furious  at  Bernard's  appointment. 

A  pleasant  remembrance  of  a  happy  time  passed  by  my 
wife  and  myself  in  those  days  at  Simlah  is  a  visit  paid  us 
by  Mr  Lockwood  Kipling,  the  father  of  Mr  Rudyard  Kipling, 
the  latter  of  whom  was  then  in  swaddling-clothes.  It  had 
been  determined  to  have  prepared  a  series  of  sketches  of 
Indian  craftsmen  to  illustrate  a  report  that  was  to  be  drawn 
up  in  the  Department  of  Commerce,  and  I  was  fortunate  to 
be  able  to  obtain  the  consent  of  Mr  Lockwood  Kipling  to 


YOUNG    RUDYARD    KIPLING  225 

undertake  the  duty  for  me.  It  was  in  relation  to  the  prep- 
aration of  these  sketches  that  he  paid  us  a  visit  at  Simlah, 
and  the  one  of  all  these  excellent  sketches  which  we  like 
the  most  is  that  made  in  our  company  one  afternoon  in 
the  Simlah  bazaar  of  the  old  man  carving  wood.  The  series, 
which  technically  as  well  as  artistically  has  been  pro- 
nounced to  be  of  the  highest  merit,  has  been  published 
by  Government,  and  is  well  known  to  all  interested  in 
Indian  art. 

It  was  in  the  days  of  Sir  Bartle  Frere  that  I  first  became 
acquainted  in  Bombay  with  Mr  Lockwood  Kipling  and  his 
talented  wife,  the  parents  of  Rudyard  Kipling,  and  I  saw 
them  frequently  during  the  rest  of  their  time  in  India. 
Rudyard  I  knew,  more  or  less,  from  his  birth  up.  The 
father  had  come  out  to  Bombay  to  fill  one  of  the  Professor- 
ships in  the  Art  College,  founded  by  the  accomplished  Sir 
Bartle,  in  the  palmy  days  of  Bombay  during  the  American 
War  and  the  cotton  famine.  Sir  Bartle,  the  busiest  man 
in  the  Presidency,  had  always  time  for  everything.  He, 
and  indeed  all  his  family,  had  great  artistic  taste  and  know- 
ledge, and  they  took  much  interest  in  all  branches  of  the 
School  of  Art.  So,  during  my  frequent  visits  to  them  in 
Bombay,  I  often  spent  a  morning  with  the  Professors  in  the 
wigwams  in  which  they  then  lived  and  carried  on  work  be- 
fore the  school  was  built.  Of  Rudyard,  as  a  small  boy,  I  have 
a  sketch,  made '  by  his  father,  showing  that  young  person's 
ideas  of  heaven  and  partiality  for  jam  during  his  early 
Bombay  days.  His  father  also  wrote  me  that  Master  Ruddy, 
at  this  early  stage,  entertained  rather  advanced  theological 
views.  Witness  the  following  story.  His  sister  was  a  couple 
of  years  the  elder,  and,  after  the  manner  of  her  kind,  con- 
sidered it  necessary  to  assume  a  very  critical  attitude  towards 
her  junior's  manners  and  morals.  One  day  Master  Ruddy 
had  left  a  small  quantity  of  pudding  uneaten.  "  You  must 
finish  that,"  said  the  sister,  "  or  God  will  be  very  angry  with 
you."  "  Boo,  boo,"  says  the  delinquent,  "  then  I  shall  change 
my  God  "  (as  he  might  his  dhoby  or  washerwoman).      But 

p 


226  WORK   UNDER   LORD    MAYO 

the  sister,  who  claimed  superior  theological  knowledge,  re- 
plied authoritatively,  "  You  can't  change  your  God,  it  is  the 
Sirkar's  [Government]  God."  And  Rudyard,  realising  even 
at  that  early  age,  thanks  to  the  gorgeous  chuprassy  who 
accompanied  him  on  his  morning  walks,  that  he  occupied 
a  sort  of  official  position  under  the  Government,  which  carried 
with  it  responsibilities,  surrendered. 

The  father  was  now  to  come  on  a  visit  to  us  at  Simlah  for 
the  purpose  stated.  When  the  Principalship  of  the  Lahore 
School  of  Art  was  sanctioned,  I  was  able  to  assist  in  success- 
fully supporting  Mr  Kipling's  claims  to  the  post.  He  then 
moved  to  Lahore,  where  he  was  joined  later  by  his  talented 
son,  who  had  just  left  school.  There  Kipling  commenced 
his  journalistic  career  on  '  The  Civil  and  Military  Gazette,' 
and  with  what  success  is  well  known.  Those  who  knew  the 
father  and  mother  could  hardly  be  surprised  at  the  son's 
ability  and  wit.  They  both,  from  the  first,  took  a  very  in- 
telligent interest  in  everything  connected  with  the  people 
and  country,  and  even  in  their  Bombay  days  were  better 
informed  on  all  matters  Indian  —  religions,  customs,  and 
peculiarities — than  many  officials  who  had  been  long  in  the 
country.  They  both,  too,  could  see  persons  and  events  from 
the  humorous  side,  and  were  the  most  excellent  company. 
Mr  Lockwood  Kipling's  book,  '  Beast  and  Man  in  India,' 
is  considered  by  many  to  be  quite  as  good  as  anything 
written  by  the  son.  I  do  not  know  that  Mrs  Kipling  ever 
published  any  of  her  writings.  But  I  used  to  think  I  recog- 
nised her  hand  in  witty  letters  and  articles  in  'The  Pioneer' 
and  '  The  Civil  and  Military  Gazette.'  Sir  George  Allen,  the 
proprietor  of  '  The  Pioneer,'  asked  me,  in  my  Bombay  days, 
to  recommend  him  a  Bombay  correspondent,  and  I  imme- 
diately suggested  Kipling  pere  (the  son  being  then  still  quite 
a  small  boy),  and  Allen  often  expressed  later  his  obligations 
to  me  for  the  result.  '  The  Pioneer  '  and  '  The  Civil  and  Mili- 
tary Gazette  '  were  connected,  and,  in  time,  Rudyard  passed 
to  Allahabad,  where  he  was  often  at  our  house.  Some  of  the 
pieces  written  by  him  then  for  the  Allahabad  paper  have  not, 


A   VALUABLE    BOOKLET  227 

I  think,  been  republished.  But  I  cut  them  all  out  at  the 
time,  and  still  find  them  excellent  reading.  I  know  few 
things  so  irresistibly  comic  as  a  collection  of  sentences  in 
the  vernacular,  supposed  to  be  prepared  as  a  vocabulary  for 
the  use  of  the  British  soldier  on  the  frontier, — a  mixture  of 
Hobson-Jobson  and  pidgin-Hindustani,  which  to  those  who 
know  something  of  the  two  languages  is  most  entertaining. 
I  remember  meeting  the  writer  in  the  afternoon  after  the 
article  had  appeared  in  '  The  Pioneer,'  and  asking  how  he 
could  possibly  have  arrived  at  so  marvellous  a  result  ?  He 
assured  me  he  had  taken  down  most  of  the  sentences  from 
the  lips  of  men  in  the  barracks.  But  without  desiring  to 
throw  doubt  on  the  author's  accuracy,  I  cannot  bring  myself 
to  credit  "  Tommy  "  with  all  the  delights  of  the  "  Soldier's 
Vocabulary."  I  must  not  forget  to  mention  my  obligations 
to  Mr  Kipling  and  his  mother  for  the  provision  of  a  con- 
siderable sum  of  money  which  enabled  us  to  make  a  sub- 
stantial addition  to  our  library.  After  we  had  left  India, 
and  were  living  at  Schloss  Wildeck,  I  read  one  morning  in 
'  The  Times '  how  a  small  book  containing  a  collection  of 
Kipling's  early  verses  had  sold  at  auction  for,  I  think,  £120. 
I  asked  my  wife  to  look  for  a  copy  of  the  verses  which  I 
thought  Mrs  Kipling  had  given  us  at  the  time.  A  search 
produced  a  booklet  of  about  thirty  pages  in  a  brown  paper 
cover.  This  I  sent  to  Sotheran.  In  the  meantime  one  or  two 
other  copies  had  come  on  the  market,  and  the  price  had  fallen. 
But  I  received  within  a  week  a  cheque  for  the  substantial 
sum  of  £80.  And,  for  a  valuable  addition  to  our  library, 
purchased  with  the  money,  we  have  to  thank  the  family  of 
Kipling,  of  whose  friendship  in  old  times  this  will  ever 
remain  to  us  as  a  pleasant  remembrance. 

In  those  days  when  we  returned  from  Simlah  to  Calcutta, 
business  men,  cotton  merchants  and  others,  would  frequently 
come  out  from  home,  or  run  across  from  Bombay  on  matters 
connected  with  the  trade,  and  they  would  generally  find  their 
way  to  my  office.  It  was  part  of  my  duty  to  keep  the  Viceroy 
informed   of   these   visitors   and    their   quality,   and   to   say 


228  WORK    UNDER   LORD    MAYO 

whether  I  thought  His  Excellency  should  see  them.  They 
would  generally  be  asked  to  dine  at  Government  House,  and 
I  would  also  be  bidden  at  the  same  time,  and  told  to  come 
early  and  see  Lord  Mayo  before  dinner.  I  would  generally 
find  him  in  his  dressing-room,  and  whilst  he  was  giving  the 
finishing  touches  to  his  toilette  I  would  tell  him  what  I 
knew  of  the  guests,  so  that  His  Excellency  might  be  able  to 
talk  with  them  sympathetically  after  dinner.  On  these  occa- 
sions I  would  invariably  find  the  dressing-room  already  in 
the  possession  of  Terence,  Lord  Mayo's  favourite  little  son, 
who,  knowing  this  to  be  the  only  time  in  the  afternoon  that 
his  father  was  disengaged,  would  always  demand  admittance. 
He  was  invariably  perched  up  on  the  top  of  a  high  chest  of 
drawers,  which  gave  him  plenty  of  opportunity  of  observing 
and  chattering,  but  did  not  admit  of  his  roving  about. 
"  Well,  tell  me  all  about  it,"  would  say  Lord  Mayo.  The 
first  time  I  rather  hesitated,  Terence  being  in  possession. 
"  Oh,  it's  Terence  you  are  thinking  of,  is  it  ?  Why,  Terry-boy, 
you  are  my  confidant,  are  you  not  ?  You  are  quite  discreet, 
too,  ain't  you  ?  Well,  let  us  get  on."  And  after  that  Terence 
was  always  a  party  to  the  deliberations,  and  would  sit  quite 
quiet  until  the  time  came  for  him  to  be  helped  off  the  chest 
of  drawers,  stood  up  on  a  chair,  and  permitted  to  assist  in 
putting  on  his  father's  star,  a  great  and  regularly  demanded 
treat. 

Another  Governor- General,  for  Viceroys  were  unknown 
until  Lord  Canning's  time,  had  a  confidant  in  the  big  room 
adjoining,  which  from  Lord  Wellesley's  day  had  always  been 
the  Governor-General's  study.  During  Lord  Dufferin's  reign 
Lord  and  Lady  Connemara  arrived  on  a  visit  to  the  Viceroy. 
She  was  the  daughter  of  the  great  Lord  Dalhousie,  and  had 
been  at  Government  House  with  him  as  a  girl.  On  the  day 
of  her  arrival  I  was  seated  opposite  Lady  Connemara  and  the 
Viceroy  at  dinner.  She  said  to  Lord  Dufferin,  "  Tell  me,  is 
the  Governor-General's  room  still  the  large  one  down  that 
passage  to  the  right  ?  "  Lord  Dufferin  assented,  saying  that 
it  had  ever  been  sacred  to  the  head  of  the  Government.     She 


STORIES    OF   LORD    MAYO  220, 

continued,  "  How  well  I  remember  the  morning  of  my  first 
arrival  in  Calcutta,  all  those  years  ago.  My  father  took  me 
into  that  room  and  gave  me  some  delicious  tea,  so  different 
from  ship's  tea,  you  know.  Then  he  threw  some  crumbs  of 
bread  into  the  corner  and  a  little  mouse  stole  out.  '  That,' 
said  my  father,  '  is  my  only  confidant  in  India.'  "  I  know 
that,  in  those  days  at  least,  Terence  was  every  bit  as  discreet 
as  that  mouse,  and  I  have  small  doubt  that  in  the  present 
century  H.B.  Majesty's  Consul  at  Biserta  is  in  no  wise 
wanting  in  this  respect. 

Since  I  have  been  writing  this  down  I  have  opened  the 
newspaper  and  noticed  an  Irish  story  told  by  Lord  Charles 
Beresford,  which  brings  back  to  me  vividly  Lord  Mayo 
telling  the  same  story  many  years  ago,  so  that,  even  if  it  may 
seem  somewhat  out  of  place  here,  I  must  repeat  it.  Lord 
Charles's  man  describes  the  whisky  going  down  his  throat 
"  like  unto  torchlight  processions."  Lord  Mayo  told  the 
story  somewhat  differently.  We  stopped  at  a  railway  station 
for  luncheon  prepared  for  the  Viceregal  party.  "  What  like's 
the  sherry  ?  "  said  Lord  Mayo  to  one  of  the  aides-de-camp. 
"  I  should  call  it  a  fine  powerful  military  wine,  sir,"  was  the 
answer.  "  I  remember,"  said  Lord  Mayo,  "  how  years  ago  at 
an  inn  in  Ireland  a  bottle  of  sherry  was  produced,  of  which 
my  companion,  fortunately  for  me,  consumed  three-quarters. 
The  next  morning  he  complained  he  had  not  slept  a  wink. 
'  Oh,  that  sherry  ! '  said  he.  '  Why,  I  lay  awake  all  night, 
and  felt  the  whole  time  as  if  torchlight  processions  were 
proceeding  through  my  veins.' "  The  "  proceeding  through 
his  veins  "  was  delightful,  though  perhaps  not  quite  so  much 
so  for  the  unfortunate  wine-bibber. 

And  here,  too,  must  be  interpolated  a  slight  sketch  of  Lord 
Mayo,  as  I  see  him  one  afternoon  in  camp  in  the  long  ago, 
and  which  will  better  help  to  portray  him  and  show  what 
attached  men  to  him  than  can  any  description  I  may 
laboriously  attempt  to  compose  of  that  entirely  lovable 
personality. 

There  had  been  a  durbar,  and  Lord  Mayo's  commanding 


23O  WORK   UNDER   LORD    MAYO 

figure,  arrayed  in  full  uniform  and  decorated  with  his  stars, 
had  appeared  quite  magnificent,  and  had  much  impressed  all 
present,  Europeans  and  Natives  alike.  We  were  in  a  great 
camp,  and  my  tent  was  in  one  of  the  side  streets.  The 
horses,  which  were  also  cared  for  in  camp,  were  stabled  out 
not  far  behind  my  tent.  It  was  afternoon,  and  I  had  gone 
out  to  the  stables  with  a  friend,  a  young  officer  who  had  just 
ridden  post-haste  into  camp  to  relieve  a  subaltern  of  the 
escort  who  had  met  with  an  accident.  My  friend  had  over- 
ridden his  favourite  Arab.  There  had  been  a  stone,  too,  or 
something  in  the  way,  and  there  was  serious  trouble  in  the  off 
fore-leg,  so  we  had  both  hastened  to  the  horse-lines  to  inspect 
the  damage.  As  we  were  standing  looking  on,  whilst  a  groom 
was  preparing  fomentations,  a  figure  came  up  behind  us,  and 
stooping  down  proceeded  to  feel  the  damaged  fore-leg,  which 
the  poor  beast  was  hanging  in  a  piteous  manner.  "  Very 
hot,"  said  the  voice  of  the  figure,  which  I  at  once  recognised 
as  that  of  Lord  Mayo.  And  he  began  to  give  instructions 
for  the  poor  beast's  treatment  in  a  slow,  matter-of-fact 
manner.  My  companion  had  never  seen  the  Viceroy,  and 
had  no  idea  who  was  the  tall,  good-natured  person  in  a 
lounge  suit  who  had  suddenly  come  to  our  aid.  I  poured  out 
thanks,  with  an  "  Excellency"  carefully  interpolated  so  as  to 
explain  the  position  to  my  companion  and  bring  him  to 
attention.  He  was  a  little  taken  aback  at  first,  whilst  Lord 
Mayo  went  on  in  the  most  approved  fashion  ministering  to 
the  wants  of  the  suffering  Arab.  It  seemed  quite  natural  to 
Lord  Mayo  to  come  to  the  rescue  and  to  assist  wherever  his 
knowledge  could  prove  of  any  service  to  man  or  beast  in  pain. 
Having  finished  his  office  work,  the  Viceroy  had  escaped 
from  his  staff  and  chuprassies  and  had  found  his  way  by  the 
back  of  his  tent  into  a  side  street  off  the  camp,  and  lighting  a 
cigar,  had  strolled  up  to  have  a  look  at  the  horses  hard  by. 
In  a  few  minutes  a  red- and -gold  Jemadar,  several  chip- 
prassies,  and  an  aide-de-camp  made  their  appearance,  having 
discovered  the  whereabouts  of  their  truant  Viceroy.  The 
poor  Arab  having  been  cared  for  as  far  as  possible,   Lord 


OUR    LAST    MEETING  23 1 

Mayo  strolled  back  to  the  big  tent,  having  first  invited  the 
young  subaltern  to  dinner,  and  told  him  to  let  him  know  how 
the  invalid  got  on.  "  In  the  meantime,"  said  Lord  Mayo, 
"Captain  X."  (the  aide-de-camp  who  was  with  us)  "will 
see  that  you  have  a  mount  from  the  stable  here."  It  was 
not  unnatural  that  this  sort  of  ruler  commended  himself 
to  subalterns,  to  their  seniors,  and  to  many  others  in  and 
out  of  the  service  also. 

During  the  early  part  of  1872  my  wife  and  I  were  in 
Calcutta,  and  constantly  at  Government  House,  and  I  was 
in  nearly  daily  communication  with  Lord  Mayo.  His  visit 
to  Burmah  and  the  Andamans  had  long  been  announced, 
and  I  had  my  last  official  interview  with  him  on  the  day 
before  his  departure.  He  charged  me  with  some  special 
work  during  his  absence,  desired  me  to  get  it  through  and  to 
return  to  Calcutta  in  about  a  fortnight,  when  the  Viceregal 
party  was  expected  back,  and  then  with  my  wife  to  spend 
four  days  with  him  at  Barrackpore,  the  beautiful  Government 
House  on  the  Ganges,  a  few  miles  above  Calcutta.  There  I 
was  to  report  to  him  the  result  of  my  inquiries  and  to  take 
orders  regarding  some  new  schemes  in  view.  On  this,  the 
last  night  of  Lord  Mayo  in  Calcutta,  my  wife  and  I  dined  at 
Government  House,  quite  a  quiet  little  party  consisting  of 
Lord  and  Lady  Drogheda,  who  were  staying  there,  the 
Burnes,  an  aide-de-camp,  and  ourselves.  My  wife  had  a 
long  talk  with  Lord  Mayo,  and,  after  her  manner,  inscribed 
the  conversation  in  her  journal.  Lord  Mayo  was  tired, 
having  been  busy  during  the  day  with  Secretaries  and  others, 
who  all  wanted  orders  at  the  last  moment  on  many  matters 
that  had  to  be  settled  before  the  Viceroy  left.  He  did  not 
seem  to  be  in  his  usual  cheery  good  spirits,  and  this,  from  his 
conversation  with  my  wife,  seemed  attributable  to  his  having 
just  received  the  news  of  an  engagement  in  his  family,  which 
troubled  him  with  the  prospect  of  the  young  people  not  being 
well-off.  He  gave  an  amusing  account  of  some  of  the  troubles 
that  encompassed  him  as  a  young  man  from  want  of  means 
and  the  anxieties  of  his  early  married  life,  but  cheered  up 


232  WORK   UNDER   LORD    MAYO — HIS   ASSASSINATION 

somewhat  when  he  related  some  rather  comic  experiences  he 
had  in  Ireland  during  that  period.  The  party  broke  up 
early.  His  last  words  to  me  were,  "  Let  me  hear  how  you 
get  on.  And  remember  Barrackpore  on  Friday  fortnight, 
when  you  will  report  progress.  Good-bye."  I  was  never  to 
see  again  that  most  lovable  of  men  and  excellent  of  masters, 
who  during  the  past  three  years  had  given  me  the  fullest 
measure  of  his  confidence  and  support,  and  had  secured  for 
me  a  position  much  beyond  my  abilities  and  deserts. 

I  left  Calcutta  next  morning,  and  for  some  time  was  busy 
at  Allahabad  and  in  Berar.  I  then  went  down  to  Bombay, 
and  waking  at  the  Callian  Junction  in  my  travelling  car- 
riage, heard  a  ghoul  -  like  cry  of  "  Assassination  of  the 
Viceroy."  I  thought,  at  first,  that  it  was  the  tag-end  of 
some  nightmare  of  the  heavily-ladened  morning  air.  But 
soon  a  half-caste  vendor,  repeating  the  cry,  shoved  a  Bombay 
newspaper  into  my  hands,  on  which,  noticing  the  deep  black 
border  of  the  front  page,  I  knew  that  some  catastrophe  had 
indeed  occurred,  and  read  how  Lord  Mayo  had  been  assassin- 
ated on  the  8th  February  by  a  fanatic  at  Port  Blair. 

It  was  a  truly  sorrowful  story,  filled  full  of  hideous  ill-luck. 
Every  possible  precaution  had,  it  was  thought,  been  taken  by 
the  able  and  devoted  Viceregal  staff.  The  party  on  their 
return  towards  the  ship  had  reached  the  landing-pier,  where 
lay  the  steam-launch  only  a  few  yards  off.  They  were  actually 
within  the  guard  drawn  up  at  the  landing,  when  an  officer, 
passing  through  to  give  an  order,  made  an  opening  in  the 
ranks  through  which  the  assassin  dashed  and  twice  stabbed 
Lord  Mayo  in  the  back,  inflicting  wounds  from  which  he 
died  a  few  minutes  later.  Until  arriving  at  the  pier  in  the 
midst  of  the  guard,  two  aides-de-camp,  one  of  whom  was 
my  cousin,  Captain  Harry  Lockwood,  had  walked  close  to 
the  Viceroy,  one  on  each  side,  and  no  precaution  for  his 
safety  had  been  omitted  until  they  had  come,  as  they 
thought,  safe  into  port. 

There  had  been  some  portents,  not  noticed  at  the  time, 
but   much   talked  of  afterwards.      The   assassination  but  a 


CHARACTER   OF    LORD    MAYO  233 

few  months  before  of  the  Chief  Justice  on  the  steps  of  the 
High  Court  suggested  the  advance  of  a  dangerous  wave  of 
fanaticism.  Major  Eddy  Bourke,  the  Viceroy's  Military 
Secretary  and  brother,  had  long  been  very  anxious  regarding 
Lord  Mayo's  safety,  ar.d  had  taken  special  precautions  at 
the  Government  Houses,  both  at  Simlah  and  Calcutta,  with 
this  view.  Notwithstanding  these,  a  native  was  found  one 
afternoon  in  the  throne  -  room  in  Calcutta  seated  on  the 
dais.  He  turned  out  to  be  a  half-witted  table-servant  who 
had  been  formerly  employed  at  Government  House.  The 
incident,  however,  showed  how  even  careful  precautions 
could  be  circumvented.  Lord  Mayo  used  often  to  say, 
"  Take  every  proper  precaution.  But  remember,  any  man 
who  is  ready  to  sacrifice  his  own  life  can  generally  manage 
to  kill  his  victim."     And  so,  alas !  was  it  to  be. 

I  returned  to  Calcutta,  my  work  completed,  but  to  no 
cheery  meeting  at  Barrackpore,  and  to  no  encouragement 
and  appreciation  from  him,  who  indeed  knew  how  to  ensure 
loyal  and  efficient  service  from  all  who  came  within  his 
command.  Personally  and  officially  the  death  of  Lord 
Mayo  was  to  me  one  of  the  severest  blows  of  my  life. 
That  death,  I  find  in  referring  to  dates,  occurred  now  more 
than  thirty-eight  years  ago.  I  am  conscious  that  I  may 
be  suspected  of  exaggeration  and  false  sentiment,  but  I 
sincerely  declare  that  I  cannot  even  now  think  over,  or 
write  of,  that  terrible  calamity  without  deep  sorrow  and 
emotion,  so  firmly  had  Lord  Mayo  attached  me  to  him 
by  his  essentially  lovable  qualities. 

It  is  not  easy  to  explain  what  those  qualities  were,  or  to 
do  justice  to  what  was  correctly  described  as  a  truly  noble 
nature.  First  of  all,  there  was  what  a  native  would  term  his 
"presence," — his  commanding  height,  his  manly  looks,  and 
his  ever-pleasant  smile.  Then  there  was  the  innate  dignity 
of  his  manner,  generally  attributable  to  lions  and  big  men. 
He  never  what  is  termed  attempted  "to  come  the  don," 
or  found  it  necessary  to  remind  any  one  of  his  immense 
superiority  as  Viceroy,  and  his  manner  was  always  quite  easy 


234  WORK   UNDER   LORD    MAYO — HIS   ASSASSINATION 

and  informal.  But  there  was  nothing  about  it  to  suggest 
that  the  same  tone  should  be  adopted  in  return.  With  this 
amiable  manner  he  always  seemed  to  command  "  attention," 
and  he  did  not  look  the  man  with  whom  it  would  be  de- 
sirable to  try  unpleasant  conclusions.  Then  he  had  a 
quiet,  rather  slow  and  decided  manner  of  speaking,  with 
a  pleasing  voice,  and  just  a  suspicion  of  an  Irish  accent. 
I  have  seen  him  angry,  but  I  never  saw  him  cross,  or  un- 
pleasant, or  discourteous,  or  otherwise  than  considerate  in 
his  manner  to  those  who  had  to  deal  with  him. 

I  have  been  asked,  "  But  was  he  really  able  ? "  The 
answer  must  depend  on  what  exactly  is  meant  by  ability, 
and  on  the  class  of  ability  referred  to.  I  doubt  if  Lord 
Mayo  would  ever  have  appreciated  at  any  period  of  his 
life  complicated  competitive  examinations.  He  had  no  pre- 
tensions to  being  a  savant  or  a  student,  or  what  a  native 
gentleman  recently  termed  a  "midnight-oil"  Viceroy.  But 
he  was  thoroughly  well  educated  and  intelligent,  if  that  is 
what  is  meant,  and  could  make  a  good  speech  and  interest 
himself  in  any  subject,  were  it  education  or  cavalry  re- 
mounts. He  might  prefer  the  latter,  as  more  in  his  original 
line,  but  he  would  be  quite  up  to  the  mark  and  sound  on 
the  former  topic  also.  I  hardly  suppose  any  one  considers 
that  Lord  Palmerston  possessed  marked  ability  in  the  sense 
of  familiarity  with  examination  subjects.  But  few  will  deny 
that  he  was  a  great  man,  successful  in  public  life  and  a 
leader  of  men.  And  this  must  certainly  mean  the  pos- 
session of  ability.  The  verdict  on  Lord  Mayo  will  be  the 
same  as  on  Lord  Palmerston.  Lord  Mayo  certainly  pos- 
sessed in  an  eminent  degree  the  ability  required  of  a 
Viceroy,  if  that  is  what  is  meant.  That  is  to  say,  he 
understood  men,  and  having  a  store  of  personal  magnetism, 
he  carried  them  with  him.  He  was  also  in  splendid  health, 
and  after  working  hard  could  throw  off  the  troubles  of  office 
by  a  good  run  after  a  pig,  thus  keeping  his  digestion  and 
temper  both  well  in  hand,  In  short,  so  far  as  my  opinion 
goes,  if  the  Secretary  of  State  for  India   and  the  Cabinet 


QUALIFICATIONS    FOR   A   VICEROY  235 

were  to  consult  me  as  to  the  choice  of  a  Viceroy,  I  should 
say,  Try  and  find  a  man  as  like  Lord  Mayo  as  possible. 
Let  him  be  big,  with  a  commanding  presence.  Let  him 
be  cheery  and  manly,  in  good  health,  and  a  sportsman. 
A  man  who  has  been  in  the  army  is  preferable,  for  in  that 
school  he  will  have  had  any  natural  priggishness  knocked 
out  of  him,  and  will  not  be  overwhelmed  with  the  thought 
of  his  own  importance  when  in  high  position.  And  he 
will  have  acquired  a  camaraderie  which  will  help  to  carry 
him  through  with  men,  and  with  women  also.  For,  as  in 
other  parts  of  the  world,  he  will  find  that  in  India  the 
opinion  of  the  women  counts  for  something.  It  will  be 
said,  "  But  Lord  Mayo  never  was  a  soldier."  It  is  difficult 
to  believe  that  he  was  not.  He  certainly  had  all  the 
soldierly  instincts  strong  in  him.  But  then  he  had  been 
a  Master  of  Hounds.  And  this  also  is  a  point  to  be 
remembered  in  the  choice  of  a  Viceroy.  A  successful 
Master  of  Hounds  will  be  found  successful  in  everything 
where  tact,  strength,  and  management  are  required.  Your 
man  must,  of  course,  admittedly  have  education  and  ability. 
But  please  remember,  a  very  clever  man,  as  it  is  called, 
is  not  what  is  wanted.  Such  a  one  will  probably  be 
full  of  fads,  and  will  rub  every  one  up  the  wrong  way  in 
his  desire  to  assert  himself  and  make  himself  important, 
and  in  doing  so  will  overlook  the  necessity  of  keeping  the 
Government  machine  working  steadily  and  quietly.  If  you 
employ  a  very  clever  man,  the  effect  will  be  somewhat  the 
same,  as  I  have  seen  it  described,  as  using  a  sharp  pen- 
knife in  cutting  the  leaves  of  your  book.  The  very  sharp 
blade  will  run  off  the  line  and  commence  to  cut  out  curves 
on  its  own  account,  irrespective  of  direction.  What  is 
wanted  for  the  purpose  is  in  the  nature  of  a  good,  solid, 
sound  paper-knife,  which,  working  steadily  through  the  folds 
of  the  pages,  will  do  its  work  honestly  and  neatly. 

"  But,"  says  a  friend  who  has  just  read  over  my  recipe  for 
a  Viceroy,  "this  is  a  rough  sketch  of  Lord  Minto."  I  was 
not  thinking  of  the  present  Viceroy  at  the  time  the  above 


236  LORD    MINTO 

remarks  were  written.  I  hardly  know  Lord  Minto,  having 
met  him  but  once,  years  ago,  as  Lord  Melgund.  But  re- 
reading what  has  been  written,  I  do  now  see  that  it  may 
well  be  said  that  Lord  Minto  answers  all  my  requirements. 
And  certainly  the  accounts  received  of  him  from  India  show 
him  to  come  nearer  to  Lord  Mayo  than  any  Viceroy  either 
before  or  since.  And  they  all  credit  him  with  that  quiet 
courage  which  was  a  characteristic  of  Lord  Mayo,  and  the 
valuable  power  of  making  men  trust  him  and  believe  in 
him,  which  Lord  Mayo  eminently  possessed.  And  no 
Viceroy  has  had  a  more  difficult  time  than  has  had  Lord 
Minto,  and  no  one  could  hope  to  come  out  of  the  ordeal 
more  successfully  and  modestly.  As  a  man  in  very  high 
position  recently  wrote  to  me,  "  Lord  Minto  has  shown 
the  greatest  courage  and  tact,  and  has  proved  himself  to 
be  a  statesman  of  the  first  order."  And  this  will,  I  am 
confident,  be  the  verdict  of  all  who  are  in  a  position  to 
realise  the  enormous  difficulties  that  have  had  to  be  en- 
countered and  surmounted  by  the  present  Viceroy  in  his 
dealings  with  the  existing  dangerous  position  in  India. 


237 


CHAPTER    XI. 

HOME. 

1872. 

Homeward  bound — The  P.  and  O.  steamer — Angels  unawares — Digna- 
tories  of  the  Italian  Court — Attention  at  Naples — Reception  of 
Siamese  mission — Royal  box  at  the  opera  gala — Charlie  Dickens — 
Rome — Monseigneur  Howard — His  Holiness  the  Pope — Cardinal 
Antonelli  —  Cardinal  Barnabo — Monseigneur  Stonor — The  Arch- 
bishop's servant — System  of  tipping — Indian  definition — Across  the 
Continent — My  uniform  at  the  customs — An  Elder  Brother  of  the 
Trinity  House  and  his  alarming  French — Foreign  idea  of  a  lady 
from  India — Back  at  Bonn — Sad  story  of  Sidonia — London — 
Northumberland  House  —  Albury — Syon — Duke  and  Duchess  of 
Argyll — Placed  on  duty  at  the  India  Office — The  Exhibition — Mrs 
Rivett-Carnac's  collection  of  women's  ornaments — Lac  ornaments — 
Derivation  of  the  word — An  invitation  and  its  complications — 
Destruction  of  Northumberland  House — The  Duke's  proposals — A 
posting  tour — Bentley  Priory  —  The  Tile  House,  Denham — Lady 
Emily  Drummond  and  the  long  ago — Bannerdown — Post  and 
hearse  horses  —  Salisbury  —  Mr  Stevens  the  antiquary  —  To 
Manchester — Dinner  in  Town  Hall  given  me  by  Chamber  of 
Commerce — Gold  medal  of  the  Cotton  Supply  Association — My 
two  supporters  —  Both  now  Privy  Councillors  —  Difficulties  of 
oratory — Mr  C.  P.  Scott,  M.P.— Sir  Stafford  Northcote  —  Mr 
Campbell  of  I  slay — Lord  Granville. 

Soon  after  my  return  to  Calcutta,  at  the  time  of  Lord 
Mayo's  death,  I  suffered  again  from  jungle  fever,  which  had 
attacked  me  in  the  Central  Provinces,  as  I  had  foolishly 
remained  out  too  late,  and  was  caught  by  the  rains  when 
trying  to  dispose  of  a  troublesome  tiger.  I  was  recommended 
to  take  leave,  and  was  right  glad  of  an  excuse.  I  had  been 
desirous  for  some  time  past  of  getting  home.  But  invariably, 
just  as  I  was  ready  to  go,  there  came  to  me  a  new  appoint- 


238  HOME 

ment,  or  some  special  work  that  put  even  a  temporary 
absence  out  of  the  question.  And,  during  all  Lord  Mayo's 
reign,  the  pace  had  been  too  fast  and  furious  for  any  thought 
of  a  holiday.  Now  all  had  changed.  My  part  as  Cotton 
Commissioner  was  nearly  played  out,  and  I  greatly  wanted 
a  holiday.  So  the  middle  of  April  saw  my  wife  and  myself, 
after  an  uneventful  voyage,  at  Naples,  in  all  the  delight  of 
a  trip  across  the  Continent  on  our  way  home  after  a  long 
absence.  There,  at  Naples,  one  of  the  first  persons  I  saw 
was  my  old  friend  and  enemy  Charlie  Dickens,  who  at  once 
carried  us  off  to  his  box  at  the  theatre  to  hear  "  Barbe 
Bleu,"  and  made  us  promise  to  come  down  to  Gad's  Hill, 
which  he  had  inherited  on  his  father's  death.  On  the  run 
between  Alexandria  and  Brindisi,  too,  we  had  made  the  ac- 
quaintance of  some  Italian  fellow-passengers,  who  among 
a  crowd  of  Britons  were  rather  "  out  of  it  "  on  board  the 
P.  and  O.  steamer,  where  they  knew  not  the  lines.  We  were 
fellows  in  misfortune,  for,  like  them,  I  had  omitted  to  rush 
down  and  secure  a  good  place  at  the  table,  so  that,  when 
the  time  came  for  dinner,  we  found  ourselves  ruled  out  at 
a  place  just  over  the  screw,  at  which  were  only  the  three 
Italians,  outcasts  like  ourselves.  We  got  into  conventional 
converse  during  dinner,  and  met  again  in  the  smoking- 
room,  where  my  fellow-Britons  looked  somewhat  askance 
at  the  foreigners,  whose  mufti  was  certainly  somewhat 
original  and  suggestive.  It  was  whispered  that  one  kept  a 
hell  at  Port  Said,  and  that  the  other  two  were  partners  in 
the  business.  We  got  on  well  enough,  however,  at  the 
dinner-table,  and  I  was  able  to  practise  my  Italian  after 
meals  also.  It  was  not  until  the  last  evening  of  the  passage 
that,  on  exchanging  cards,  I  found  that  the  suspected  "  said  " 
hell  was  hardly  in  it,  and  that,  in  reality,  we  had  been 
entertaining  angels  unawares.  For  of  the  despised  foreigners, 
the  one  proved  to  be  the  Marquis  d'Agh6mo,  Private  Secre- 
tary to  the  King  of  Italy,  and  the  other  two,  distinguished 
members  of  the  Court,  who  had  been  deputed  on  a  special 
mission  to  Cairo  to  invest  the  Khedive  with  the  Collar  of 


AT    NAPLES   AND    ROME  239 

the  Annunciad.  On  arrival  at  Brindisi,  they  were  received 
with  all  honour  by  the  local  authorities,  and  our  friends 
finding  we  were  also  bound  for  Naples,  where  the  Court  then 
was,  they  procured  for  us  a  reserved  compartment  in  the 
train,  and  on  arrival  at  Naples  overwhelmed  us  with  kindly 
attention.  Naples  was  en  gala,  receiving  a  special  mission 
sent  by  the  King  of  Siam.  The  day  after  our  arrival, 
Madame  Agh6mo  called  for  my  wife  and  myself,  and  taking 
us  to  the  Palace,  enabled  us  to  have  a  perfect  view  of  the 
State  reception  of  the  mission  by  the  King  Victor  Emanuel. 
In  the  afternoon  an  equerry  called  and  brought  us  the  key 
of  one  of  the  royal  boxes  for  what  was  to  be  the  next  night  a 
gala  performance  at  the  San  Carlo  in  honour  of  the  mission, 
when  the  house  (it  was  before  the  days  of  electric  light)  was 
lit  up  with  masses  of  wax-candles.  During  the  remaining 
days  of  our  stay,  our  steamer  acquaintances  helped  us  to 
visit  all  that  was  worth  seeing.  And  we  were  in  time  to 
witness  a  terribly  active  eruption  of  Vesuvius,  and  the  red- 
hot  lava  cutting  through  a  village,  and  knocking  down  the 
houses  as  if  they  were  ninepins.  I  ascertained  afterwards 
that  our  pleasant  friend  the  Marquis  d'Aghemo  owed  his 
position  about  the  King  to  his  being  the  brother-in-law  of 
Madame  Mirafiore,  whom  the  King  had  eventually  married. 
I  was  not  a  little  proud  of  my  Italian  acquaintance.  But 
it  will  be  seen  from  my  later  experiences  at  Guy's  Cliffe  that 
the  King's  entourage  was  not  admired  or  accepted  willingly 
by  the  old  Italian  noblesse. 

At  Rome  we  got  into  quite  another  stratum  of  Italian 
society.  I  had  received,  before  I  left  India,  letters  from 
my  friends  the  Nagpore  Fathers  of  St  Francois  de  Sales 
and  the  Catholic  Archbishop  of  Calcutta,  in  which  I  was 
recommended  to  Cardinal  Barnabo  and  His  Holiness  for 
having  aided  these  good  men  in  their  mission  and  in  their 
colony  near  Nagpore,  and  for  having  slain  that  tiger,  who, 
a  greater  heretic  even  than  myself,  had  destroyed  several 
of  the  mission  cattle.  So  we  were  sure  of  attention  at  the 
Vatican.     And  here  I  found  an  old  friend  of  my  childhood, 


24O  HOME 

whom  I  had  not  seen  for  many  years.  My  father  had  been 
very  intimate  with  Colonel  Williams,  then  commanding  the 
2nd  Life  Guards,  and  would  sometimes  take  me,  when  a 
boy,  with  him  to  the  barracks  to  see  the  men  and  horses 
and  hear  the  band  practise.  There  Captain  Howard,  a 
splendidly  handsome  soldier,  would  occasionally  join  us, 
and,  after  the  manner  of  big  men,  would  be  good-natured 
to  me  as  a  boy,  explaining  and  showing  all  that  was  to 
be  seen,  and  invariably  finishing  up  with  a  bagful  of  cakes 
from  the  officers'  mess.  At  Rome  I  found  him,  still  the 
strikingly  fine  handsome  man,  though  no  longer  a  soldier,  but 
an  Archbishop  in  partibus,  with  the  blue-ribbon  of  the  Church, 
the  Vicarate  of  St  Peter's.  He  had  at  Rome  a  perfect 
establishment,  his  sisters — Mrs  Marshall,  as  she  then  was, 
and  Lady  Hartopp  —  keeping  him  well  supplied  with  all 
that  was  good  and  interesting  from  England.  His  horses 
and  turns  -  out  were  what  might  be  expected  of  a  high 
dignitary  of  the  Church — he  was  not  a  Cardinal  then — and 
an  experienced  cavalry  officer.  During  our  stay  at  Rome 
he  took  us  under  his  special  care,  and  we  saw  all  that 
was  worth  seeing.  We  had  the  honour  of  a  private  audi- 
ence with  H.H.  the  Pope,  to  which  the  Archbishop  con- 
ducted us,  and  during  which  His  Holiness  referred  to  the 
aid  I  had  been  able  to  give  to  the  good  Fathers  at  Nagpore. 
And  I  had  two  interviews  with  Cardinal  Antonelli,  at  the 
first  of  which  I  was  introduced  by  the  Archbishop.  I  was 
amused  to  see  how  the  Cardinal  seemed  to  stand  much 
more  in  awe  of  the  splendidly  handsome  British  Archbishop 
than  did  that  prelate  of  the  Cardinal  -  Prince.  Antonelli 
was  a  deacon,  and  much  more  of  a  politician  than  a  cleric. 
Whilst  old  Cardinal  Barnabo  wanted  all  sorts  of  informa- 
tion about  the  position  of  the  missions,  which  I  could  not 
always  give  him,  Antonelli  asked  no  question  on  this  subject, 
but  was  much  interested  in  the  progress  of  the  railways  and 
the  advance  of  Russia  towards  the  frontier.  He  had  all 
the  best  and  latest  maps,  and  these  were  produced,  and  I 
had  to  show  him  the  new  lines  of  railway  and  point  out 


CARDINAL    HOWARD  241 

to  him  and  explain  where  I  lived  when  in  India.  He  asked 
a  good  many  questions  about  the  native  troops,  and  whether 
they  were  ever  allowed  to  be  cantoned  alone  and  apart  from 
the  Europeans  requisite  to  look  after  them ;  and  was  much 
disappointed  when  he  found  that  I  was  of  little  good  as  to 
information  about  the  Russian  advance.  But  he  was  inter- 
ested when  he  found  that  I  knew  something  about  Indian 
coins,  and  he  made  an  appointment  for  a  couple  of  days 
later,  when  I  went  through  his  coin  collection  and  explained, 
as  far  as  I  could,  his  Indian  specimens.  He  then  showed  me 
his  collection  of  gems  and  intaglios,  which  was  particularly 
fine,  and  was  again  to  be  disappointed  at  finding  that  this 
was  another  subject  on  which  I  was  ignorant. 

We  spent  a  very  pleasant  time  in  Rome,  due  chiefly 
to  the  kind  attention  of  the  Archbishop.  I  made  the 
acquaintance  also  on  this  occasion  of  another  British 
dignitary  of  the  Catholic  Church.  Monseigneur  Howard 
had  driven  me  to  the  Church  of  St  John-outside-the-Walls 
to  some  special  service,  and  we  were  returning  through  the 
crowded  streets  of  the  city,  his  splendid  pair  of  English 
horses  taking  us  along  at  a  great  pace,  when  he  suddenly 
tugged  violently  at  the  check  -  string,  and  the  coachman 
bringing  the  carriage  to  a  standstill,  the  violet-robed  prelate 
leaped  out  of  the  carriage,  I  following  him,  and  not  knowing 
exactly  what  was  going  to  happen.  He  made  his  way 
rapidly  through  the  crowd  in  front  of  him,  and  coming  up 
behind  an  ecclesiastic  who  was  walking  smartly  along,  he 
put  his  hand  on  his  back,  saying,  "  Old  fellow,  I  am  so 
delighted  they  have  made  you  a  Monsignore."  So  came 
out  the  Eton  boy  through  the  Archbishop's  robe,  and  so 
did  he  greet  his  old  friend,  Monsignore  Stonor,  whose  ap- 
pointment as  Monsignore  had  that  day  been  announced. 
I  was  to  see  this  latter  Monsignore  later  at  Guy's  Cliffe, 
and  later  in  London,  his  sister,  the  Dowager  Lady  Clifden, 
being  long  our  next-door  neighbour  in  Green  Street.  Mon- 
seigneur Howard  obtained  in  due  course  the  Cardinal's  hat, 
being   one   of  the   few  Britons  who  have  ever   attained   to 

Q 


242  HOME 

that  dignity.     Later,  his  terrible  illness  was  a  great  grief  to 
myself  and  all  his  friends. 

I  had  an  instance  in  his  case  of  how  the  master  of  a 
household  can,  if  he  is  in  earnest,  put  a  stop  to  his  serv- 
ants taking  money  from  his  guests,  and  thus  abolish  the 
system  of  tips  which,  whether  at  a  private  house  or  a 
hotel,  must  ever  be  the  greatest  nuisance  to  a  visitor.  Mon- 
seigneur  Howard  had  a  most  excellent  body-servant  whom 
he  sent  frequently  to  us  on  messages,  and  who  escorted  us 
several  times  on  expeditions,  besides  attending  at  the  table 
and  in  the  house.  When  I  was  leaving,  the  man  had  been 
so  attentive  and  useful  that  I  was  conscious  that,  according 
to  the  usual  abominable  practice,  I  ought  to  present  him 
with  a  handsome  tip.  I  communed  much  with  myself  as  to 
what  that  tip  ought  to  be,  and  being  desirous  of  doing  the 
thing  handsomely,  I  got  five  louis  d'or  from  the  bank,1  and 
on  leaving  tried  to  put  them  into  the  good  man's  hand.  We 
were  quite  alone  at  the  time,  and  he  fully  realised  the  amount, 
which  was  certainly  not  insufficient.  But  he  very  court- 
eously and  firmly  declined  the  money,  saying  he  had  a  most 
excellent  place  with  the  Monseigneur,  and  that  the  Arch- 
bishop would  be  disgusted  and  angry  with  him  if  he  thought 
of  taking  money  from  any  one  of  his  guests.  This  is  about 
the  only  case  in  my  experience  of  such  good  feeling  and 
form.  And  I  grieve  to  say  I  have  not  found  the  retainers 
of  the  very  biggest  potentates  less  rapacious  than  the  servants 
of  the  smaller  fry.     In  India,2  where  I  had  a  big  house,  and 

1  Paper  money  was  generally  in  use. 

2  A  point  of  interest  in  this  connection,  and  which  is  worth  noticing,  is  the  differ- 
ence between  the  Indian  and  English  equivalents  expressing  the  douceur  dear  to  the 
heart  of  every  native,  and  solicited  or  levied  by  him  according  to  his  position  for 
the  time  being. 

In  Hindustani  the  word  is  ll  Haq"  which,  being  interpreted  literally,  means 
"one's  right,  one's  due,"  showing  the  light  in  which  the  levy  has  been  regarded 
and  recognised  in  native  society  for  generations  past. 

Our  translation  of  the  word  according  to  our  improved  lights — ideas  which  an 
Indian  does  not  always  find  it  easy  to  grasp — is  "  illegal  gratification."  And  those 
who  attempt  to  assert  what  they  may  have  been  brought  up  to  consider  as  their 
"  rights,"  may  be  faced  with  a  further  explanation  of  the  term  taken  from  the  Indian 
Penal  Code,  para.  &c. 


THE    TIPPING    NUISANCE  243 

often  young  officers  staying  as  guests,  I  succeeded  to  some 
extent,  I  believe,  in  stopping  the  practice  in  my  own  establish- 
ment. I  got  my  Private  Secretary  to  warn  the  guests  against 
giving,  and  to  ascertain  whether  by  any  chance  the  rule  had 
been  misunderstood.  If  a  culprit  servant  were  discovered, 
he  had  to  stand  on  an  enormously  high  stool  of  repentance, 
specially  fashioned  for  the  purpose,  and  placed  in  the  sun 
at  the  front -door  near  the  sentry.  There  all  passers-by 
would  wag  their  heads  at  the  delinquent,  who  would  get 
terribly  chaffed  by  his  fellow-servants  for  having  been  such 
an  ass  as  to  be  found  out.  That  that  stool  had  some  effect 
I  am  glad  to  believe. 

In  India  the  servants  of  all  officials  receive  tips  from  the 
native  visitors,  and  the  higher  the  position  of  the  master 
the  bigger  the  tip  received  by  the  man.  At  one  time, 
years  ago,  when  on  a  visit  at  Meerut  to  H.R.H.  the  Duke 
of  Connaught,  his  head  native  servant  being  ill,  my  head- 
man, a  most  excellent  Mohamedan,  took  his  place  for 
six  months.  At  the  end  of  that  period  my  man  conde- 
scended to  return  to  me.  He  told  me  the  position  had 
been  in  every  way  delightful,  and  that  he  had  amassed  a 
good  sum  in  tips.  According  to  the  understood  etiquette 
of  the  position,  no  native  visitor  ever  gave  my  man,  then 
the  servant  of  a  Royal  Prince,  less  than  a  gold  piece — a 
gold  mohur  being  worth  16  rupees,  or  32s.  according  to 
the  old  rate  of  exchange,  or,  say,  22s.  even  now.  Anyhow, 
my  servant  did  not  do  so  badly  for  the  time,  and  until  his 
return  to  me,  when  he  had  to  come  down  to  the  more 
modest  standard  of  about  a  two-rupee  tip. 

I  had  several  introductions  to  leading  merchants  and 
manufacturers  on  the  Continent  connected  with  the  cotton- 
trade,  and  we  received  much  attention  and  hospitality  on 
our  travels.  At  one  of  the  cities  we  visited  I  called  upon 
a  leading  merchant,  a  rich  man  with  a  fine  house  in  the 
most  fashionable  locality,  who  received  me  with  much 
kindness,  and  added  that,  having  heard  from  his  Bombay 
correspondents  of  my  coming,   he   had  prepared   for   me  a 


244  HOME 

suite  of  rooms  at  his  house,  which  he  hoped  I  would  occupy 
during  my  stay  in  his  city.  I  thanked  him,  but  explained 
that  I  could  not  accept  his  hospitable  offer,  as  my  wife 
was  with  me  at  the  hotel.  Madame,  the  wife  of  the 
merchant,  who  was  in  the  room,  also  joined  in  the  hospit- 
able offer.  She  was  a  remarkably  handsome  woman, 
magnificently  apparelled  in  the  latest  fashion  received  from 
Worth.  On  hearing  that  my  wife  had  accompanied  me 
from  India,  "  How  interesting  !  "  ejaculated  the  lady ;  "  may 
I  come  to  the  hotel  and  see  her  ? "  I  said  that  it  was 
rather  the  duty  of  my  wife  to  call  upon  madame.  "  Oh 
no,"  she  continued,  "do  let  me  come.  And  may  I  bring 
with  me  Baroness  de  B.,  who  is  so  interested  in  India, 
and  especially  in  Indian  costumes,  of  which  she  had  one 
at  our  fancy-ball  ? "  Then  were  my  eyes  opened,  and  I 
realised  that  the  lady  hoped  to  find  in  my  wife  an  Indian 
woman  with  a  ring  through  her  nose,  clothed  in  appropriate 
costume,  and  carried  about  in  a  palankeen.  My  friend  when 
she  called  was  doubtless  disappointed  in  finding  my  wife  to 
be  of  European  extraction,  only,  unfortunately,  of  a  fashion 
in  dress  at  least  one  year  behind  the  last  Worth  model. 
Still,  we  became  great  friends,  and  have  so  remained  from 
that  day  forward.  On  my  return  to  India  I  related  this 
story,  among  some  other  tales  of  my  Continental  experience. 
At  dinner  with  us  was  a  shy  old  civilian,  a  recent  arrival 
at  the  station,  and  who  was  most  desirous  of  ingratiating 
himself  with  my  wife  and  myself.  When  I  had  told  the 
story,  his  neighbour  at  the  table,  wishing  to  get  him  to 
talk,  asked  the  old  fellow  what  he  thought  of  the  position. 
"  Oh,"  he  blurted  out,  "  I  can  quite  understand  how  dis- 
appointed they  must  have  been  to  see  but  a  very  ordinary 
Englishwoman  after  all."  The  delight  of  the  audience  was 
extreme  and  warmly  expressed  ! 

Leaving  Italy  we  passed  into  Switzerland  through  the 
Mont  Cenis.  I  had  been  told  that  an  excellent  way  of 
saving  oneself  trouble  at  the  customs  house  was  to  put 
one's    uniform    up    top    of    the    box,    which     the    douanier 


MY    POLITICAL    UNIFORM  245 

recognising,  would  then  pass  all  your  baggage  without 
question  or  delay.  So  my  blue-and-gold  coat  and  cocked 
hat  were  placed  well  to  the  front.  The  train  was  very 
full,  and  there  was  more  than  the  usual  crowd  of  fussy 
tourists  struggling  to  get  their  boxes  through  the  customs. 
I  was  served  early  in  the  day,  and  noticing  the  kindly 
recognition  given  to  the  gold-laced  coat  by  a  leading  official 
who  was  superintending  the  proceedings,  flattered  myself  I 
should  be  immediately  freed.  To  my  horror,  however, 
the  inspector — or  whatever  he  was — was  so  impressed  with 
and  interested  in  my  finery  that  he  made  his  subordinate 
bring  piece  after  piece  out  of  the  box,  and  arrange  them 
on  the  counter  so  that  he  might  leisurely  inspect  it.  The 
result  was  apparently  so  satisfactory  that  he  promptly  bade 
his  colleague  stop  his  work  in  another  part  of  the  shed  and 
come  and  admire.  And  some  of  the  subordinates  think- 
ing that  they,  too,  might  have  a  look  in,  the  work  for  a 
time  was  checked,  much  to  the  fury  of  several  travelling 
Britons  and  others  who  were  not  so  much  interested  in  or 
impressed  by  the  magnificence  of  my  trappings.  "  Monsieur 
est  sans  doute  Amiral,  n'est-ce  pas  ?  "  said  the  appreciative 
and  courteous  official  to  me  —  he  being  deceived  by  the 
blue  and  gold,  which  he  supposed  must  indicate  the  Navy. 
I  modestly  disclaimed,  and  explained.  It  is  related  how  an 
Elder  Brother  of  the  Trinity  House,  clad  in  his  uniform, 
at  a  Ministerial  reception,  was  similarly  mistaken  for  an 
Admiral,  and  being  interrogated,  replied  in  his  best  French, 
"  Nong,  je  suisje  Frere  aine  de  la  Trinite," — a  revelation 
which  caused  the  foreigner  to  fly,  in  not  unnatural  doubts 
as  to  the  sanity  of  the  person  claiming  such  an  extraordinary 
position  and  precedence ! 

We  spent  some  days  in  Switzerland,  passing  under  the 
imposing  old  Hapsburg  Castle  at  Wildeck  on  the  Aare, 
where,  after  my  retirement,  I  was  to  spend  so  many 
pleasant  years.  And  I  interviewed  many  of  the  Swiss 
interested  in  the  cotton-supply,  some  of  whom  had  agencies 
in    Bombay   and   even    in    Berar.      At    Zurich    I    saw   the 


246  HOME 

venerable  old  antiquarian,  Dr  Ferdinand  Keller,  with  whom 
I  had  had  some  correspondence  regarding  the  cup  -  marks 
on  monoliths  found  at  Nagpore  by  me,  and  also  not  un- 
common in  Switzerland  and  other  European  countries. 
And  thence  we  journeyed  to  Bonn,  the  place  to  me  of  the 
very  happiest  memories,  with  its  delightful  surroundings 
and  picnic  centres  well  known  to  my  childhood.  My  old 
schoolmaster  was  long  3ince  dead ;  and  the  house  had  been 
pulled  down  to  make  way  for  a  Fabrik,  as,  since  the  war, 
the  place  had  become  rich,  and  local  industry  had  much 
advanced.  But  I  found  the  daughter  of  my  old  master, 
and  thereby  hangs  a  tale.  She  was  the  younger,  Sidonia, 
the  elder  sister  being  dead.  Now,  in  my  time  at  Bonn 
school  this  Sidonia  had  about  nine  years,  and,  when  oppor- 
tunity occurred,  we  used  to  make  love  to  this  youthful 
beauty  and  quarrel  with  her  in  turns.  Her  mamma  was 
a  Teuton,  and  in  appearance  the  daughter  favoured  that 
race — having  a  fair  complexion  and  hair  of  a  lifeless  light 
colour,  yet  abundant  withal,  and  plaited  into  a  pigtail, 
adorned  with  a  shabby  black  bow  on  ordinary  occasions, 
but  one  of  a  light-blue  hue  on  high  days  and  holidays.  Now 
there  had  been  temporary  estrangement  between  us  con- 
sequent on  some  toffee  given  to  her  elder  sister,  and 
Sidonia  was  burning  for  revenge.  When,  then,  she  saw 
me  and  another  small  boy  enjoying  the  whiffs  from  a 
piece  of  cane  which  we  were  smoking  at  the  end  of  the 
garden,  this  forbidden  indulgence  was  immediately  reported 
to  the  papa,  who,  coming  upon  us  unawares,  gave  us  both 
a  considerable  dose  of  punishment-stick,  kept  in  pickle  for 
such  occasions.  But  we  were  to  have  our  revenge. 
Sidonia  was  lured  by  my  fellow  -  conspirator,  under  the 
promise  of  bull's-eyes,  to  the  upper  galeta — the  attic  where 
the  German  servants  occasionally  dried  their  washing. 
There,  far  from  help,  and  where  her  screams  would  not 
penetrate  below,  we  locked  that  abundant  pigtail  into  the 
door ;  and  so  effectually  imprisoned  did  Sidonia  remain 
for  a  good  hour  until  rescue  arrived.      When  I  again  met 


IN    LONDON  247 

Sidonia,  on  the  visit  to  Bonn  now  mentioned,  some  five- 
and  -  twenty  years  had  elapsed.  She  had  married  a  stout 
captain  of  artillery  in  the  meantime,  who,  not  being  able 
to  surmount  the  major  obstacle  which  blocks  the  way  of 
German  officers  who  are  not  wholly  efficient,  had  had  to 
retire  from  the  service,  and  had  settled  at  Bonn.  There 
were,  I  saw,  three  little  Sidonias  of  that  union  —  all  like 
their  mamma,  pasty  as  to  complexion,  and  with  the  towey 
pigtail  of  my  remembrance.  At  first  I  feared  the  good 
lady  might  have  communicated  to  her  warrior-husband  my 
wickedness  of  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  century  ago.  But  if 
she  did,  he  certainly  did  not  openly  resent  it ;  for  he  and 
his  wife  entertained  us  most  hospitably  to  a  supper,  with  a 
special  species  of  sausage  and  sundry  bochs  of  excellent  beer. 
We  arrived  soon  afterwards  in  London  in  the  midst  of 
the  season ;  and  here  I  was  detained  some  little  time  on 
business,  as  I  was  charged  with  several  official  questions 
connected  with  commerce  and  the  Exhibition,  then  im- 
minent, of  which  I  was  the  Special  Commissioner  in  India. 
My  mother  was  established  in  a  beautiful  place  some  four 
miles  out  of  Bath,  and  after  a  brief  visit  there  I  returned 
to  town.  My  wife's  eldest  brother1  was  then  in  India,  but 
her  second  brother2  was  in  England  working  for  the  Indian 
competitive  examination,  which  he  was  soon  to  pass.  The 
youngest3  was  preparing  for  the  Army,  and  was  spending 
his  holidays  at  Northumberland  House,  which  in  those  days 
still  survived,  and  where  we  met  with  a  most  hospitable 
welcome.  My  wife  and  her  brothers  had,  from  their  child- 
hood up,  received  the  greatest  kindness  from  the  then  Duke 
and  the  Duchess,  and  had  spent  much  of  their  time  at  Albury 
and  Alnwick.  Indeed  the  Duchess  was  ever  in  kindness  as 
a  second  mother  to  my  wife,  whilst  my  wife  herself  enter- 
tained for  her  and  the  Duke  much  of  the  affection  she  had 


1  Now  Colonel  Sir  Edward  Durand,  Bart.,  C.B. 

8  Now  the  Right  Honourable  Sir  Mortimer  Durand,  P.C.,  G.C.M.G.,  &c,  late 
Ambassador  at  Washington. 

3  Now  Colonel  Algernon  Durand,  C.B.,  CLE. 


248  HOME 

devoted  to  the  father  she  had  so  recently  lost,  and  who 
had  named  the  Duke  as  his  executor  and  guardian  of 
his  children.  During  our  stay  in  England,  then,  we 
spent  a  portion  of  our  time  with  these  very  kindest  of 
friends  in  London,  and  in  succession  at  Albury,  Syon, 
Kielder,  and  Alnwick.  And  with  them  I  had  the  great 
advantage  of  meeting,  soon  after  my  arrival,  the  Secretary 
of  State  for  India,  under  whom  my  official  work  in  Eng- 
land was  to  be  conducted.  I  first  met  the  Duke  and 
Duchess  of  Argyll  at  dinner  at  Northumberland  House.  It 
was  the  evening  of  a  State  ball  at  the  Palace,  and  the 
Duke  was  in  Highland  dress  and  wore  the  Order  of  the 
Thistle,  for  I  do  not  think  he  then  had  also  the  Garter. 
In  that  becoming  costume  he  looked  quite  imposing. 
Although  he  had  a  remarkably  fine  head,  he  was  small, 
and  in  ordinary  dress  his  appearance  was  less  impressive. 
Lord  Percy,  the  eldest  son  of  the  house,  was  married  to 
a  daughter  of  the  Duke  of  Argyll,  so  that  the  two  families 
were  closely  united.  The  introduction  to  my  official  chief, 
made  under  such  favourable  circumstances,  bore  good 
fruit ;  and  from  that  time  on  the  Duke  of  Argyll  showed  us 
much  kindly  attention,  and  gave  me  his  personal  support 
in  various  matters  which  then  and  later  I  had  to  undertake 
with  the  India  Office.  In  fact,  after  having  seen  him  two 
or  three  times  on  business,  the  Duke  was  good  enough  to 
have  me  placed  on  special  duty  in  England,  and  to  assign 
to  me  temporarily  a  room  at  the  India  Office,  where  I 
worked  on  several  questions  in  which  the  Secretary  of  State 
was  then  interested.  This  personal  intercourse  with  this 
distinguished  man  was  not  only  interesting  and  a  great 
advantage  to  me  at  the  time,  but  was  most  valuable  as 
securing  to  me  for  the  rest  of  his  life  a  powerful  friend 
who  more  than  once  assisted  me  most  obligingly,  as  will 
be  noticed  hereafter,  in  matters  in  which  I  was  concerned, 
and  who  encouraged  me  to  correspond  with  him  on  Indian 
and  antiquarian  subjects  until  his  death. 

One  of  the  periodical  Exhibitions  was  then  on,  and  to  this 


MRS    RIVETT-CARNAC  S    COLLECTION  249 

my  wife  had  contributed  a  remarkable  collection,  which  she 
had  made  at  the  suggestion  of  her  father,  of  the  various 
forms  of  ornaments  worn  by  native  women  in  India.  It 
would  be  incorrect  to  call  this  collection  "jewellery,"  as  it 
was  sometimes  termed,  for  it  included  a  much  more  extended 
class  of  ornament  worn  by  Indian  women  than  comes  under 
that  heading.  The  necklets,  bracelets,  and  anklets,  and 
other  ornaments  that  the  women  affect,  were  shown  not 
only  in  every  variety  of  form,  following,  to  a  great  extent, 
the  localities  represented,  but  included  every  sort  of  material 
used  in  this  class  of  feminine  adornment.  The  chief  object 
in  some  cases  being  to  show  the  shape  of  the  ornament,  it 
mattered  little  whether  the  material  was  of  gold,  silver,  or 
zinc,  so  long  as  the  workmanship  and  form  were  faithfully 
produced.  There  were  a  few  specimens  in  gold  and  silver, 
but  the  majority  were  in  the  baser  metals, — the  articles  worn 
by  the  poorer  classes,  —  which  still  faithfully  followed  the 
shapes  and  ornamentation  of  the  necklet  or  bracelet  worn 
by  the  rich  in  gold.  The  collection  did  not  extend  to 
precious  stones,  but  included  several  fairly  good  imitations 
made  in  the  bazaar  of  the  jewelled  sarpeches  and  necklets 
worn  by  the  higher  classes.  I  was  then  amused  when  a 
well  -  known  authority  who  had  seen  my  wife's  collection 
under  a  glass  case  at  the  Exhibition,  but  who  had  not,  of 
course,  had  the  opportunity  of  examining  it  at  close  quarters, 
in  complimenting  her  on  the  variety  and  excellence  of  the 
forms,  added  that  though  he  thought  the  emeralds  very  fine 
in  size  and  colour,  he  did  not  find  the  pearls  so  good !  Then 
there  were  the  ornaments  worn  by  the  very  poor,  fashioned  of 
straw  and  berries — graceful  enough,  and  indicating  sometimes 
the  models  from  which  the  metal  copies  had  been  fashioned. 
There  were  also  the  shell  and  composite  lac  1  ornaments  of 

1  Our  word  "lac"  comes  from  the  Indian  word  lakh,  meaning  100,000,  and  well 
know  in  connection  with  rupees,  and  derives  from  the  myriads  of  small  insects 
which,  puncturing  the  jungle  tree,  cause  to  exude  therefrom  a  juice  which,  drying  on 
the  branch,  forms  the  resin  or  gum,  and  which  collected  with  the  twigs  is  the  stick- 
lac  of  commerce.  From  this  again,  when  purified,  comes  the  lac,  or  shell-lac  as  it  is 
termed  ;  whilst  the  residue  is  the  colour  we  call  lake. 


250  HOME 

the  substance  from  which  sealing-wax  is  made,  and  which 
is  the  basis  of  the  beautiful  lacquered- ware  of  Japan  and 
elsewhere.  Altogether  the  collection  numbered  over  8000 
specimens,  and  although  the  scheme  has  since  been  followed 
up  on  a  large  scale  by  the  Government  and  other  collectors, 
the  idea  originated  with  Sir  Henry  Durand  and  Mrs  Rivett- 
Carnac.  Many  of  the  specimens  have  been  the  admiration 
of  Castellani  and  other  eminent  jewellers,  some  of  whom 
have  since  copied  in  their  art  the  lines  of  the  most  graceful 
of  the  ornaments.  I  had  occasionally  to  do  cicerone  to  those 
interested  in  the  collection,  visitors  to  the  Exhibition,  and 
on  one  occasion  I  was  horrified  at  an  unfortunate  contre- 
temps that  occurred,  and  which,  as  the  principal  actors  are 
now  dead,  may  without  indiscretion,  perhaps,  be  related  here. 
I  had  met  at  dinner  a  most  pleasant  and  intelligent  foreigner, 
the  Secretary  of  one  of  the  Embassies,  who  was  artistically 
interested  in  the  models  in  my  wife's  collection.  I  gave  him 
a  rendezvous  at  the  Exhibition  the  next  morning,  where  I 
had  already  arranged  to  meet  me  a  friend,  a  well-known 
public  man,  who  also  was  interested  in  artistic  designs. 
When  the  latter  arrived  he  introduced  me  to  his  sister-in- 
law,  who  had  unexpectedly  accompanied  him.  This  intro- 
duction had  hardly  been  made  when,  my  foreign  friend 
suddenly  arriving,  I  proceeded  to  introduce  Count  X.  to 
the  lady.  I  thought  from  the  expression  on  the  faces  of 
my  guests  there  must  be  something  wrong,  and  as  we  moved 
off  the  foreigner  said  to  me  in  a  sepulchral  whisper,  "  I  varrs 
engaged  to  marry  for  seeks  monts  to  that  yorng  laydie."  And 
so  had  it  been.  They  had  met  at  a  foreign  capital,  had 
become  engaged  to  be  married,  and  all  promised  well. 
Then,  so  report  had  it,  had  come  the  season  of  young 
ducks,  and  with  them  green  peas.  The  Count  was  socially 
sound  on  most  matters.  But  the  green  peas  and  the 
gravy  relating  thereto  were  too  strong  a  temptation  for 
his  knife,  and  with  it  they  went  to  his  mouth.  A  rupture 
of  the  engagement  was  the  inevitable  result.  But  how, 
unless  I  had  been  a  prophet,  could  I   possibly  have  known 


NORTHUMBERLAND    HOUSE  251 

of  this?  And  before  blaming  me,  be  it  remembered  that 
the  young  lady  came  down  quite  unexpectedly  to  the 
Exhibition. 

Whilst  we  were  in  town  the  construction  of  a  great 
avenue  from  the  Strand  to  the  Embankment,  involving 
the  destruction  of  Northumberland  House,  was  under  con- 
sideration, and  I  heard  the  subject  frequently  discussed. 
The  Duke  and  the  whole  family  were  strongly  opposed  to 
the  scheme.  When  at  Northumberland  House  one  afternoon, 
I  accompanied  the  Duke,  Sir  James  Hogg,  then  Chairman  of 
the  Board  of  Works,  the  brother  of  my  former  master  at 
Burdwan,  and  several  others  to  the  steps  of  the  National 
Gallery,  where  the  Duke  pointed  out  how,  by  carrying  a 
road  on  either  side  of  it  down  to  the  Embankment,  North- 
umberland House  might  be  spared,  and  all  the  requirements 
of  the  Board  met.  But  the  scheme,  which  seemed  to  me 
excellent,  was  not  accepted.  The  position,  as  I  understood 
it,  was  that,  much  as  the  Duke  would  have  wished  to  save 
the  house,  he  would  not  allow  his  private  wishes  to  stand 
in  the  way  of  a  scheme  really  necessary  for  the  convenience 
of  London  traffic  and  demanded  by  the  voice  of  the  public. 
And  he  preferred  to  yield  rather  than  to  appear  to  oppose 
popular  requirements,  and  eventually  to  be  expropriated  by 
Act  of  Parliament.  His  fortune  was  so  great  that  any 
prospect  of  pecuniary  benefit  cannot  have  entered  into  con- 
sideration. As  far  as  convenience  was  concerned,  the  house 
was  distant  from  what  was  then  becoming  the  centre  of 
London  fashion.  The  staircase  and  many  of  the  rooms  were 
very  fine,  and  the  grounds  down  to  the  Embankment  and  the 
inner-court — for  what  was  seen  from  the  Strand  was  not  the 
house  itself,  but  the  rooms  and  northern  side  of  the  inner- 
court — were  such  as  were  to  be  found  in  few  other  London 
houses.  There  was  little  ancestral  sentiment  connected 
with  the  place.  It  had  been  at  a  distant  date — so  Lord 
Northampton  told  me  later,  when  on  a  visit  to  Castle  Ashby 
— Northampton  House,  and  had  had  other  proprietors. 
But    it    is   a   question   whether  London    has  gained  by  the 


252  HOME 

change,  and  whether  the  monster  hotel  and  avenue  are 
preferable  to  the  scheme  of  the  fine  old  house  preserved 
and  a  broad  road  on  either  side  of  it. 

Before  the  season  was  over  we  commenced  a  series  of 
visits  to  a  number  of  relatives  and  friends  on  either  side 
of  the  family  who  hospitably  expected  my  wife  and  myself. 
In  those  days,  being  detained  at  home  on  duty,  I  was 
drawing  an  ample  salary,  and  my  natural  Ryvet  extravagant 
instincts  suggested  to  me  to  do  my  journeyings  in  comfort. 
I  had  been  much  impressed  with  the  idea  that,  to  see  Eng- 
land properly,  the  best  way  was  to  drive  or  ride  through 
the  country,  and  I  had  remembrance  of  my  father's  descrip- 
tion of  a  carriage  trip  made  by  my  mother  and  himself  in 
old  days.  Motor-cars  are  now  making  this  enjoyable  way  of 
travelling  more  than  ever  practicable.  Thorne  had  provided 
me  with  an  excellent  landau,  to  which  had  been  attached  a 
removable  rumble.  I  had  it  for  years  afterwards  with  me  in 
India,  and  it  was  the  comfort  of  the  life  of  my  wife  and 
myself.  It  had  sufficient  room  for  four  persons  inside. 
But  it  was  comparatively  light  without  the  rumble,  and 
could  be  drawn  by  a  single  horse.  So  it  was  useful  at 
night  in  town  as  a  brougham  to  go  out  to  dinners  or  the 
opera.  This  was  our  travelling  carriage  on  our  tour.  My 
wife  had  an  excellent  French  maid,  and  I  had  been  able  to 
secure  an  equally  satisfactory  footman-valet,  which  has  ever 
helped  to  make  me  sceptical,  united  as  it  is  to  much  further 
experience,  as  to  the  impossibility  of  the  British  servant  ques- 
tion. With  these  two  in  the  rumble,  and  a  pair  of  good 
horses  ridden  by  a  postilion,  harnessed  to  the  carriage,  my 
wife  and  I  commenced  our  travels  along  the  English  roads 
of  forty  years  ago,  without  any  apprehension  of  motor-cars 
and  immeasurable  dust.  Our  first  stage  was  a  short  one 
to  Bentley  Priory,  Stanmore,  then  the  property  of  our 
kind  old  friends,  Sir  John  and  Lady  Kelk.  The  house, 
which  had  one  time  been  the  residence  of  the  Queen 
Dowager,  I  believe  still  exists  as  a  hotel.  The  rooms  and 
grounds   and   all   accessories   were   very   beautiful,    and   not 


BENTLEY — DENHAM  253 

inferior  in  comfort  to  those  of  the  finest  places  in  England. 
There  was  in  those  days  a  tennis  court  (not  a  lawn-tennis 
court,  please)  and  a  covered  riding-school  for  the  young 
people  of  the  house.  We  had  brought  with  us  from  India 
our  favourite  little  dog,  which  we  could  not  find  it  in  our 
hearts  to  leave  behind,  and  which  on  board  ship  and  on  the 
Continent  had  already  cost  me  a  small  fortune  in  tips  to 
menials  of  sorts,  to  butchers,  railway-guards,  hotel-waiters, 
and  the  like.  After  luncheon  Sir  John  took  me  for  a  walk 
through  the  extensive  and  beautiful  grounds  that  surrounded 
the  house,  and  the  small  dog,  which  did  not  take  kindly  to 
either  the  French  maid  or  my  man,  accompanied  us  on  our 
stroll.  Suddenly  there  was  a  series  of  yaps,  and  the  sound 
of  the  rushing  of  many  wings.  The  small  dog  had  left  the 
path,  and  entering  an  adjoining  plantation  had  put  up  a 
hundred  or  so  of  pheasants  which  were  packed  there  awaiting 
the  first  of  October.  The  idea  of  pheasant -shooting  within 
nearly  cab-limit  of  Hyde  Park  corner  seemed  to  me  almost 
an  impossibility,  but  showed  what  money  could  ensure. 

From  Bentley  we  went  on  to  the  Tile  House,  Denham, 
beyond  Uxbridge, — a  very  different  class  of  establishment, 
but  quite  perfect  in  its  old-fashioned  methods.  There  lived 
then  Lady  Emily  Drummond,  widow  of  Mr  Mortimer 
Drummond,  the  banker,  and  aunt  of  the  then  Duke  of  North- 
umberland. The  dear  old  Tile  House  had  been  the  home 
for  the  greater  part  of  his  holidays  of  my  wife's  father, 
Sir  Henry  Durand,  when  a  boy,  and  the  whole  family  had 
been  ever  most  kind  to  him,  and  had  extended  the  same 
affection  to  my  wife.  Lady  Emily  cannot  then  have  been 
less  than  ninety  years  of  age,  and  was  the  last  survivor 
of  a  large  family.  She  had  been  abroad  in  the  former 
century  during  the  great  wars,  and  had  been  a  prisoner, 
together  with  other  members  of  her  family,  of  Napoleon. 
On  arrival,  after  embracing  my  wife,  she  said,  "  Well,  my 
dear,  where  have  you  come  from  ?  "  My  wife  commenced 
by  telling  how  we  had  landed  at  Naples.  Before  she  could 
get  any  further  the  old  lady  said,  "  Oh,  Naples ;   I   believe 


254  HOME 

Murat  made  many  changes  there  after  I  left,"  thus  giving 
one  a  fair  idea  of  the  range  covered  by  her  experience  and 
memory.  Everything  about  the  house  was  quite  old- 
fashioned,  but  equally  delightful.  The  grounds  sloping 
down  to  the  river,  where  were  the  Fisheries  that  in  old 
days  had  supplied  the  table  of  the  London  dignitaries 
of  the  Church,  were  rich  in  every  rare  flower  and  shrub. 
It  had  been  a  tradition  of  the  long  past  not  to  disturb 
any  bird  on  the  property,  and  the  grounds  were  full  of 
every  variety  of  the  feathered -folk,  who  knew  that  there 
they  had  found  sanctuary.  There  were  then  three  unmarried 
daughters  of  the  house,  who  had  been  the  companions  of 
my  wife's  father  in  old  days,  and  who  were  equally  devoted 
to  my  wife.  The  discipline  of  the  house  as  we  then  saw 
it  would  indeed  cause  any  up  -  to  -  date  young  lad}'  of  the 
present  day  to  open  her  eyes  very  wide  in  astonishment. 
The  eldest  daughter  must  have  been  then  not  far  from 
seventy  years  of  age.  Yet  the  idea  of  any  one  of  them 
going  out  without  leave  would  probably  not  have  been 
entertained  for  a  moment.  I  am  confident  that  not  one 
of  them  would  have  thought  of  ringing  the  bell  or  ordering 
a  carriage  without  first  obtaining  the  permission  of  old  Lady 
Emily.  But,  perhaps,  even  in  her  day  she  may  have  been 
considered  a  little  strict,  and  I  remember  her  sister,  the  old 
Lady  Ashburnham,  who  lived  near  to  us  in  Kent  when  I 
was  a  boy,  and  how  she  too  had  daughters  who  were  not 
young,  and  who  were  supposed  to  be  liable  to  equally  strict 
discipline.  At  the  "  Fisheries,"  just  below  the  house,  I  found 
Colonel  Gerald  Goodlake  and  his  wife,  both  of  whom  I  had 
known  before  I  went  out  to  India.  I  remembered  him  as 
a  strikingly  handsome  young  officer  of  the  Guards,  who  had 
won  the  Victoria  Cross,  and  who  with  Lloyd-Lindsay,  Trou- 
bridge,  and  some  others  were  the  acknowledged  Crimean 
heroes  of  my  younger  days. 

From  Denham  we  went  to  Bath,1  where  my  mother  lived 
in  a  lovely  old  place  among  the  hills,  some  three  miles  from 

1  Bannerdown  House,  near  Batheaston. 


BANNERDOWN    AND    SALISBURY  255 

the  city,  and  here  we  enjoyed  for  some  time  the  delights  of  a 
fine  English  summer  under  trees  nowhere  to  be  seen  in  such 
perfection  as  in  our  own  dear  land.  The  place  of  my  uncle, 
Sir  J.  F.  Davis,  Hollywood  Tower,  was  not  far  distant,  and 
there  was  my  wife  in  due  course  conducted  on  a  willing  pil- 
grimage "to  do poojah"  (worship),  as  Mountstuart  Elphinstone 
had  termed  it,  to  the  spear  with  which  my  grandfather  had 
defended  the  historic  house  at  Benares,  and  which  had  now 
found  a  place  in  the  library  at  Hollywood,  besides  having  been 
enshrined,  emblematically,  as  an  honourable  augmentation 
in  the  family  arms.  After  a  stay  in  this  beautiful  Somer- 
setshire country  we  determined  to  post  to  Salisbury,  and 
there  to  visit  what  was  held  to  be  the  unique  prehistoric 
museum,  of  great  interest  to  me  in  my  then  hobbies.  We 
started  in  state  from  my  mother's  place,  our  servants  in  the 
rumble,  a  pair  of  grey  horses  and  a  smart  postilion  as  our 
conductors.  We  had  taken  the  precaution  to  send  word 
on  to  Warminster  to  have  a  change  of  horses  and  breakfast 
ready  for  us  there.  All  went  well  on  the  road  so  far,  and 
we  were  everywhere  acclaimed  as  a  newly -married  couple 
on  their  state  matrimonial  progress.  We  had  an  excellent 
breakfast  at  Warminster,  but  on  entering  the  carriage  I 
recognised,  to  my  dismay,  that  in  the  place  of  the  bridal 
greys  that  had  conveyed  us  so  far  were  a  pair  of  fine 
horses,  but  the  blackest  of  black  in  colour,  with  crinkly 
tails,  such  as  one  sees  at  funerals.  And,  sure  enough,  these 
were  the  hearse -horses  doing  duty  as  post-horses  for  the 
occasion!  Remonstrance  was  of  no  avail.  "You'll  find 
they'll  do  Salisbury  all  right  in  good  time,"  said  the  host. 
And  he  explained  that  the  demand  for  post-horses  was  so 
limited  and  exceptional,  that  he  was  obliged  to  keep  horses 
that  would  suit  either  for  funerals  or  other  less  melancholy 
purposes.  We  reached  the  White  Hart  at  Salisbury  in  due 
course,  but  our  entry  into  the  town  did  not  arouse  the 
enthusiasm  of  the  small  boys  and  others  as  at  the  chief 
points  of  our  first  stage.  And  we  had  been  a  little  delayed 
by  our  horses  having  insisted  on  turning  into  the  cemetery 


256  HOME 

en  route,  and  apparently  having  been  surprised  at  our  not 
having  being  duly  deposited  there.  At  Salisbury  our  object 
was  to  see  Mr  Stevens,  the  celebrated  antiquary,  the  founder 
with  his  brother-in-law,  Mr  Blackmore,  there  of  the  pre- 
historic museum  in  the  town.  A  man  was  sent  with  us 
from  the  hotel  to  show  us  the  way  to  Mr  Stevens'  house. 
He  led  us  to  the  door  of  a  draper's  shop,  and  our  arrival 
having  been  announced,  we  were  taken  up  to  a  clever- 
looking  man  who  was  engaged  in  attending  to  two  old 
ladies,  and  who,  excusing  himself  for  the  moment,  sent  us 
up  to  his  rooms  above  the  shop  in  charge  of  one  of  his 
assistants.  In  the  ten  minutes  during  which  we  awaited 
our  host,  we  had  an  opportunity  of  admiring  his  excellent 
library  of  antiquarian  books  and  the  signed  photographs 
which  adorned  the  walls,  the  gifts  of  many  of  the  most 
distinguished  scientific  men  of  our  own  country  and  the 
Continent.  At  last  Stevens  appeared  full  of  apologies.  The 
two  old  ladies,  he  said,  required  only  a  small  length  of 
ribbon.  But  they  were  very  particular  indeed  as  to  the 
shade,  and  he  had  had  much  difficulty  in  matching  the 
pattern  and  satisfying  them.  The  idea  of  the  time  of  a 
distinguished  scientific  man  being  wasted  over  four-penny- 
worth of  ribbon  struck  one  as  comic.  But  Stevens  was 
never  above  his  work.  Offers  were  made  to  him  to  stand 
for  Parliament  and  to  accept  municipal  honours.  But  he 
would  not  accept  anything  that  might  interfere  with  his  busi- 
ness, or  his  other  favourite  occupation,  antiquarian  research. 
We  duly  visited  the  excellent  museum  in  Stevens'  company, 
and  there  saw  the  unique  collection  of  prehistoric  imple- 
ments made  by  Mr  Blackmore  and  himself,  and  which  had 
all  been  excellently  classified  and  arranged  at  eye-level, — an 
advantage  not  then  generally  appreciated  in  our  museums. 
On  my  return  to  India  I  was  careful  to  put  together,  with 
the  assistance  of  my  wife,  who  knew  almost  more  about 
such  matters  than  I  myself,  a  careful  selection  for  Salisbury 
from  the  large  number  of  flint  implements  found  by  us  in 
various   parts   of  India.     I   think  Mr  Stevens   had   died  in 


VISIT   TO    MANCHESTER  257 

the  meantime.  At  least  I  find  that  the  collection  presented 
by  me  to  Salisbury  was  sent  through  my  old  friend  Coleridge 
Kennard,  who  was  then  the  Conservative  Member  for  the 
borough.  And  this  brought  down  upon  my  head,  and  that 
of  the  party,  the  sarcasms  of  the  local  press  on  the  opposite 
side.  "  Mr  Rivett-Carnac,  of  the  family,"  it  was  said,  "  of 
the  Conservative  Member  for  Lymington,  had  presented 
through  Mr  Coleridge  Kennard,  their  local  Conservative 
Member,  a  collection  of  prehistoric  implements  to  Salisbury 
for  its  museum.  Now  nothing  could  be  more  conservative  or 
appropriate,  for  nothing  was  more  prehistoric  or  so  antique 
and  antediluvian  as  conservative  methods !  "  Rather  hard  on 
the  poor  Indian  flints,  who  were  no  parties  to  party  politics 
or  recriminations. 

We  gave  up  posting  soon  afterwards,  as  I  had  to  go  north 
to  Manchester  to  have  the  honour  of  a  public  dinner  to  be 
given  me  there  as  Cotton  Commissioner  in  the  Town  Hall 
by  the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  and  to  receive  the  gold  medal 
of  the  Cotton  Supply  Association  which  had  been  awarded 
to  me.  I  was  invited  to  bring  with  me  two  "  best  men  "  as 
supporters,  and  I  had  the  advantage  of  the  company  on  that 
occasion  of  my  wife's  second  brother,1  who  had  then  just 
passed  for  the  Indian  Civil  Service,  and  of  the  Deputy- 
Commissioner  No.  2  of  the  great  mango -trick  performance 
of  a  former  chapter,  the  talented  author  of  "  The  Old 
Pindaree." 2  He  had  ever  been  one  of  my  warmest  and 
much  valued  friends,  and  had  given  me  the  heartiest  and 
most  generous  support  during  all  my  work  in  the  cotton 
districts,  and  which  was  duly  recognised  by  the  cotton 
magnates  on  the  occasion.  He  was  connected  with  me  by 
marriage,  and  had  always  been  admired  by  me  for  his  ability 
and  power,  so  I  was  delighted  when  he  kindly  consented  to 
accompany  me.  It  is  a  curious  coincidence  that  the  two 
young  men  who  then  were  my  supporters  on  that  occasion 

1  The  Right  Honourable  Sir  Mortimer  Durand,  P.C.,  G.C.M.G.,  K.C.S.I., 
K.C.I.E. 

■  The  Right  Honourable  Sir  Alfred  Lyall,  P.C.,  G.C.I.E.,  K.C.B.,  &C. 

R 


258  HOME 

are  now  both  members  of  H.M.  most  Honourable  Privy 
Council,  to  which  honour  they  have  attained  after  very 
distinguished  careers  in  India  and  elsewhere.  We  were  the 
guests  in  Manchester  of  Mr  Hugh  Mason,  M.P.,  then  the 
President  of  the  Chamber  of  Commerce  there,  and  we 
revelled  in  the  most  sumptuous  hospitality.  Mr  Taylor, 
then  the  proprietor  of  '  The  Manchester  Guardian,'  was 
also  particularly  attentive  to  us,  and  with  him  was  young 
(as  he  then  was)  Mr  C.  P.  Scott,  with  whom  I  was  to  be 
on  terms  of  intimate  friendship.  He  was  until  recently 
Member  for  a  division  of  Manchester,  and  is  still  the  pro- 
prietor and  editor  of  '  The  Manchester  Guardian,'  of  which 
for  many  years  I  was  the  Indian  correspondent. 

The  speech  that  I  had  to  make  at  the  banquet  was  rather 
a  trying  ordeal  for  a  young  officer  from  India,  where  the 
making  of  speeches,  save  by  the  Governors  and  others  in 
high  authority,  is  almost  unknown,  as  one's  words  of  wis- 
dom are  generally  recorded  on  paper.  But  I  got  through 
my  speech  well  enough,  the  subject  being  familiar  to  me, 
and  being  chiefly  a  narration  of  what  had  been  done  in 
the  interests  of  the  trade  during  the  past  few  years.  But 
I  confess  that  an  uncomfortable  sensation  ran  down  my 
spine  when  I  stood  up  to  commence  speaking  and  saw  the 
eyes  of  a  dozen  reporters  fixed  on  me,  with  their  pencils 
and  notebooks  in  hand  all  ready  to  start  off.  I  had  given 
the  audience  what  seemed  to  me  to  be  enough,  and  was 
getting  towards  my  peroration,  having  had  no  reason  the 
while  to  be  displeased  with  my  reception,  when  the  Secre- 
tary came  up  behind  me  and  whispered  that  it  was  hoped  I 
would  go  on  for  another  ten  minutes,  as  Sir  Thomas  Bazle5', 
the  next  on  the  list  of  speakers,  was  coming  down  with 
a  dozen  others  from  town  by  special  train,  and  that  the 
train  had  been  delayed.  There  was  nothing  for  it  but  to 
try  and  do  my  best  and  go  on.  And  this  I  managed  to  do, 
and  spun  out  the  time  mainly  by  relating  some  anecdotes  of 
the  effect  of  the  plethora  of  wealth  on  Bombay  and  the  up- 
country  cultivator,  some  of  which  had  already  had  a  place 


SIR  STAFFORD  NORTHCOTE  AT  HOME         259 

in  my  official  reports.  These  stories  suited  the  audience 
quite  as  well  as  the  details  of  official  progress  and  the 
measures  for  meeting  the  demands  of  the  cotton  trade,  and 
I  was  getting  on  merrily  enough,  when  the  door  of  the  hall 
was  opened  and  Sir  Thomas  Bazley  and  his  company  ap- 
peared and  relieved  me.  During  that  visit  to  Manchester 
I  made  many  friends,  some  of  whom,  being  much  my  seniors, 
have  since  joined  the  majority,  but  others  of  whom,  like  Mr 
C.  P.  Scott,  I  am  glad  to  say,  still  remain  to  me.  And  I 
shall  always  feel  thankful  for  the  opportunities  that  were  per- 
mitted me  as  an  Indian  civilian  of  being  able  to  render  what 
were  considered  services  of  some  value  to  the  trade  of  Man- 
chester and  others  interested  in  our  national  cotton-supply. 
On  this  and  all  subsequent  visits  home  we  were  warmly 
welcomed  during  his  lifetime  by  Sir  Stafford  Northcote  and 
his  family.  They  had  been  our  neighbours  in  London  in 
old  days,  and  I  had  known  him,  when  I  was  a  child,  as  Mr 
Northcote,  and  I  was  to  know  him  again  later  as  Lord 
Iddesleigh.  He  was  the  simplest  and  most  amiable  of  men, 
and  seemed  always  to  me  to  have  quite  a  marvellous  knack, 
even  on  the  busiest  days  when  he  was  leader  of  the  House 
and  exposed  to  all  sorts  of  torments,  of  being  able  to  find 
time  for  everything.  When  I  would  notice  this  with  surprise 
he  would  laugh,  and  repeat  that  the  busiest  persons  could 
always  make  the  most  time.  We  would  now  and  then,  my 
wife  and  I,  go  to  the  house  in  Downing  Street  on  Sunday 
afternoons  to  tea  with  Lady  Northcote,  and  would  find  him 
taking  a  perfect  holiday,  no  secretaries  or  office -boxes  in 
the  house,  though  this  was  often  at  the  busiest  time  of  the 
session.  When  Sir  Stafford  was  Secretary  of  State  for  India 
he  used  to  allow  me  to  write  unreservedly  to  him  on  a  variety 
of  subjects,  and  although  he  did  not  answer  at  length  himself, 
he  never  failed  to  give  attention  to  anything  in  which  I  was 
really  interested.  Destroying  lately  a  large  number  of  letters, 
I  was  astonished  to  see  how,  in  the  comparatively  early  years 
of  my  service  in  India,  I  managed  to  carry  on  a  correspond- 
ence at  different  times  with  two  Secretaries  of  State — the 


260  HOME 

Duke  of  Argyll  and  Sir  Stafford.  But  then  one  had  con- 
siderable assurance  in  one's  younger  days,  and  both  my 
chiefs  at  the  India  Office  were,  fortunately,  tolerant. 

A  most  pleasant  rendezvous  on  a  Sunday  afternoon  in 
fine  weather  during  the  season  was  the  garden  at  Niddry 
Lodge,  then  the  property  of  our  very  valued  friend,  Mr 
Campbell  of  Islay.  There  my  wife  and  I  always  found  a 
warm  welcome  from  that  most  accomplished  and  original 
of  hosts,  who  never  failed  to  attract  on  those  occasions  some 
of  the  very  interesting  persons  in  the  artistic,  literary,  and 
diplomatic  world.  We  often  would  remain  to  a  Sunday 
dinner,  which  was  generally  joined  by  his  sister  and  Lord 
Granville  and  some  members  of  the  clan  Campbell,  Argyll 
Lodge  being  hard  by.  In  Lord  Granville,  too,  I  found  a 
hard-worked  Minister  who  could  apparently  always  find  time 
for  everything ;  and  when  he  was  Secretary  of  State  for 
Foreign  Affairs,  Lord  Granville  most  obligingly  helped  to 
make  many  of  our  Continental  trips  pleasant  by  giving  us 
introductions  to  the  Embassies  abroad. 


26l 


CHAPTER    XII. 


AT    HOME. 
1872. 

At  Guy's  Cliffe — Lady  Charles  Percy  and  smoking — Duchesse  de  la 
Marmora  on  my  Italian  acquaintances — Lady  Dormer  and  the 
Tichborne  case — Lord  Dormer's  entomological  collection — General 
Jim  Dormer  routs  the  mission  from  the  Mahdi — Kielder  Castle — 
Chevy  Chase  —  Grouse  and  my  grey-hen  —  Alnwick  Castle  —  Its 
splendours — Baron  Hiibner  thereon — Mediaeval  castles  v.  modern 
habitations — Cup-marks  at  Alnwick — Views  of  the  Duke  of  Argyll 
— -My  hobby — -Sir  John  Drummond-Hay — Lord  Iddesleigh  and 
Morocco — Artistic  description — Sir  John  and  the  great  Elchi — 
Visit  to  Edinburgh — Glories  of  the  place — At  Raynham  again — 
How  a  barrister  was  created — Rougham  Hall  and  its  inhabitants — 
Sir  Harry  Keppel  and  naval  gunnery— Castle  Ashby — A  distin- 
guished medico — Lord  and  Lady  Alwyne  Compton — Lord  North- 
ampton —  Lady  Marion  Alford  —  The  footman  on  Niagara — 
Partridges  in  real  stubble — Some  experiences  of  London  charities 
— The  late  Marquis  Townshend — Large  sums  given  in  charity — 
My  efforts  to  assist — Society  of  Universal  Benevolence — A  case 
before  the  committee — What  resulted  therefrom — Difficult  question 
of  charitable  relief — My  heretical  views — Sir  Henry  Maine  and 
incorrigible  young  civilian  —  Estimate  of  value  of  being  relieved 
from  the  question  of  poverty. 

It  was  soon  after  this  that  we  went  for  the  first  time  to 
Guy's  Cliffe,  known  to  most  visitors  to  Warwick,  Kenilworth, 
and  the  neighbourhood  for  its  grand  avenue  leading  from 
the  road — a  visit  that  was  to  be  repeated  regularly  in  future 
years  whenever  we  were  at  home,  and  as  long  as  Lady 
Charles  Percy  and  her  daughter  and  successor  in  that 
beautiful  old  property  remained  alive.  It  was  during  a 
fortnight  of  summer  weather  there,  when   Guy's  Cliffe  and 


262  AT    HOME 

the  Avon  and  the  avenue  and  mill  are  at  their  best,  that 
I  incautiously  found  myself  in  the  trouble,  already  referred 
to,  with  the  old  Duchesse  de  la  Marmora,  next  to  whom 
I  was  seated  at  dinner.  I  began  by  talking  in  self-satisfied 
terms  of  my  Roman  acquaintances,  and  the  Marquis 
d'Aghemo,  a  relation  of  Madame  Mirafiore's,  and  I  had,  of 
course,  little  idea  of  how  strongly  feeling  ran,  and  it  did  not 
at  first  appear  to  me  that  the  Private  Secretary  of  the  King 
could  be  regarded  as  otherwise  than  a  very  desirable 
acquaintance,  even  by  one  of  the  ancien  regime.  To  my 
horror  the  old  lady  expressed  her  surprise  that  Lady  Charles 
Percy  could  ever  have  admitted  into  Guy's  Cliffe  one  who 
had  made  such  questionable  acquaintances !  Two  other 
friends  were  there  on  that  occasion  who  were  to  render  this 
visit  and  many  future  years  pleasant  at  beautiful  Guy's 
Cliffe, —  the  Dowager  -  Lady  Dormer,  and  her  son,  Lord 
Dormer,  who  lived  at  Grove  Park  hard  by.  The  old  lady 
was  by  birth  a  Tichborne,  aunt  of  the  man  the  Claimant 
attempted  to  represent.  She  related  to  us  how  she  remem- 
bered as  one  of  the  peculiarities  of  her  nephew  that  he  had 
certain  devices,  which  she  could  describe,  tattooed  on  his  left 
arm.  This  information  was  kept  a  profound  secret  until  she 
appeared  to  give  her  evidence  in  court,  and  the  Claimant,  it 
will  be  remembered,  had  omitted  to  equip  himself  in  this 
respect.  One  morning  Lord  Dormer  brought  over  with  him 
his  little  girl,  as  she  was  in  those  days,  to  luncheon  with 
Lady  Charles  Percy.  I  had  just  received  and  showed  the 
young  lady  the  volume  of  fairy-tales  delightfully  illustrated 
by  Walter  Crane,  in  one  of  which  the  Princess  is  depicted 
flinging  the  frog  in  her  rage  against  the  wall,  and  the 
realistic  evolution  from  that  frog  of  the  handsome  Fairy 
Prince.  After  luncheon  we  repaired  to  the  garden  and  to 
Guy's  well.  The  child,  naturally  enough,  went  for  the  first 
fat  frog  to  be  seen  dozing  near  the  step,  and  flung  him  with 
smashing  effect  against  the  wall.  It  was  sad  to  notice  her 
disappointment  when  her  childish  faith  in  the  fairy-tale  did 
not,  even  at  the  expense  of  the  death  of  that  unhappy  frog, 


THE   DORMERS   AT   GROVE    PARK  263 

produce  the  hoped-for  Prince.  Lord  Dormer  was  a  many- 
sided  man.  He  had  served  for  some  time  in  the  Life  Guards. 
But  his  tastes  ran  towards  entomology,  and,  like  Lord 
Walsingham,  he  had  a  fine  collection  of  insects  at  Grove 
Park,  many  of  which  he  had  collected  himself  whilst  travel- 
ling for  the  purpose  in  out-of-the-way  parts  of  South  America 
and  elsewhere.  The  dining-room  at  Grove  Park  contained 
two  portraits  of  his  father  and  grandfather  in  Austrian 
uniform.  On  my  expressing  my  surprise  that  they  had  not, 
like  himself,  entered  the  British  service,  he  told  me,  what  I 
had  not  realised  at  the  time,  that,  belonging  as  they  did  to 
an  old  Catholic  family,  they  were  not,  until  his  time,  eligible 
for  the  service  which,  thanks  to  the  Catholic  Emancipation 
Act,  he  had  been  able  as  the  first  of  his  family  to  enter. 
His  brother,  the  General,  generally  ,  known  as  "Jimmy 
Dormer,"  was  also  an  occasional  visitor  at  Guy's  Cliffe 
when  he  was  not  abroad  on  duty.  He  is  known  to  fame 
as  having  put  to  flight  the  mission  to  Lord  Wolseley  sent 
by  the  Mahdi  to  enjoin  the  whole  British  host  to  follow 
him  as  the  true  Prophet.  The  mission  supported  their 
arguments  with  relations  of  the  miracles  performed  by  the 
holy  man.  "  Can  he  do  this  ?  "  says  Jim  Dormer,  taking  out 
of  its  socket  his  glass  eye,  and  then  chucking  it  into  the  air 
and  catching  it,  refixing  it  in  its  socket,  glaring  at  the 
mission  the  while,  and  adding  to  the  effect  by  putting  both 
hands  to  his  nose,  after  the  naughty  manner  of  our  child- 
hood. The  members  of  the  mission  gave  a  howl  of  affright 
in  chorus,  and  were  soon  miles  away  across  the  desert. 
The  General  died  from  a  regrettable  accident  when  out  tiger- 
shooting  in  the  Ootacamund  hills,  the  tiger  clawing  him 
and  inflicting  wounds  from  which  he  succumbed  after  some 
suffering. 

Forty  years  ago  smoking  was  not  such  a  universal  ac- 
complishment among  all  ages  and  sexes  as  it  has  since 
become,  and  in  some  old-fashioned  houses  a  smoking-room 
was  yet  unknown,  whilst  smoking  in  your  own  room  or  any- 
where else  in  the  house  was,  of  course,  out  of  the  question. 


264  AT    HOME 

Lady  Charles  Percy  had  the  greatest  aversion  to  tobacco 
and  the  smell  thereof.  I  was  in  no  wa}r  a  slave  to  the  habit, 
and  having,  since  my  illness,  been  obliged  to  give  up  smok- 
ing, I  find  I  utterly  detest  the  smell  of  it,  especially  of  stale 
smoke,  and  am  now  better  able  to  realise  how  distasteful  the 
smell  must  be  to  ladies  and  others.  It  was  related  how  one 
poor  old  visitor  at  Guy's  Cliffe,  having  on  a  wet  day  at- 
tempted to  smoke  a  cigar  in  the  housekeeper's  room,  and 
having  been  ignominiously  ejected,  went  forth  into  the  garden 
to  finish  his,  to  him,  necessary  smoke,  and  stood  there  for 
some  time  in  the  rain  under  an  umbrella.  Then  there 
appeared  old  Long,  the  butler,  a  well-known  character  at 
Guy's  Cliffe.  "  Please,  Sir  Paul,  milady  don't  like  smoking 
in  the  garden."  In  later  years  Miss  Percy  established  a 
smoking-room,  for,  after  all,  true  hospitality  means  meeting 
the  reasonable  requirements  of  one's  guests.  And  smoking, 
in  course  of  time,  came  within  that  category.  Smoking,  as 
a  general  habit,  dates  back  to  a  period  within  the  memory  of 
many  still  living.  I  remember  Dr  Smith,  the  editor  of  '  The 
Quarterly  Review,'  telling  us  how  he  asked  the  Marquis 
d'Harcourt,  when  he  returned  as  Ambassador  after  an  ab- 
sence from  England  of  some  years,  what  struck  him  most 
as  changes  during  his  absence  ?  He  replied,  the  smoking 
habit,  and  the  noticeable  increase  of  people  with  titles, 
especially  ladies.  He  said  that  when  he  was  last  in  England 
men  certainly  smoked,  but  that  if  they  did  so,  they  did  it 
privily  as  if  they  were  ashamed  of  it,  going  away  into 
corners,  or  behind  trees  in  the  garden.  To  smoke  in  the 
presence  of  ladies,  even  with  permission  accorded,  was  im- 
possible. Now,  he  said,  you  see  men  in  the  park  driving 
with  ladies  and  lolling  back  in  the  carriage  and  smoking. 
As  to  titles,  he  added,  "  When  I  was  first  here,  if  you  were 

introduced  to  Lady  X you  knew  that  she  was  probably 

some    one  of  distinction.      Now,"  he   said,   "every   second 

woman  you  meet  is  Lady ,  and  you  have  to  ascertain 

whether  she  is,  perhaps,  the  wife  of  a  marquis,  or  that  of  a 
mayor  of  some  small  town,  recently  added  to  the  enormous 


KIELDER    CASTLE  265 

list  of  knights  of  sorts."  On  one  of  my  later  visits  a  new 
interest  was  developed  in  me  at  Guy's  Cliffe,  when  I  found 
that,  as  far  back  as  1320,  it  had  belonged  to  a  grandfather 
of  mine  in  the  14th  degree,  Sir  Michael  de  Beau-Foie,  or 
Bellafagio, — my  ancestor  John  Ryvet,  lord  of  the  manor  of 
Freton,  Suffolk,  having  married  Alice,  daughter  and  co- 
heiress of  the  knight  about  that  same  time. 

At  the  end  of  August  we  were  at  Kielder,  where  the  grouse 
season  opened  rather  late  on  account  of  disease  among  the 
birds.  My  wife's  French  maid  was  greatly  excited  at  the 
idea  of  la  chasse,  as  her  father,  she  said,  shot  many  beasts  and 
birds  in  Languedoc,  and  was  famous  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  her  home  as  a  sportsman.  On  the  evening  of  our  arrival 
I  was  going  to  my  dressing-room  to  get  ready  for  dinner, 
having  left  my  wife  in  the  drawing-room,  when  the  maid, 
who  was  in  our  bedroom  overlooking  the  river,  came  rushing 
to  me  in  a  great  state  of  excitement,  begging  me  at  once  to 
bring  my  gun  for  the  chasse  she  had  marked  down.  And 
there,  sure  enough,  on  the  other  side  of  the  Kielder,  not  much 
more  than  two  hundred  yards  away,  was  an  old  black-cock, 
looming  large  in  the  evening  light,  at  whom  she  thought 
that,  according  to  the  rules  of  the  game,  it  was  my  duty  to 
take  careful  aim  and  slay  from  the  bedroom  window. 
Monsieur,  her  father,  she  said,  and  his  sporting  friends 
would  undoubtedly  have  done  it,  and  that  successfully  too. 

This  was  my  first  experience  with  grouse.  I  had  always 
been  good  with  the  rifle  and  the  pistol,  partly  owing  to  my 
spending  a  considerable  portion  of  my  pocket-money  when 
a  boy  at  the  tirs,  to  be  found  at  every  foreign  watering-place. 
And  in  my  time  in  India  I  carried  off  several  prizes,  among 
them  the  Regimental  Cup  for  the  best  rifle-shot  in  the 
battalion.  And  even  at  my  present  age  my  eye  and  hand 
allow  me  to  do  fairly  well  at  the  shooting-matches,  which  I 
regularly  attend,  of  the  local  Swiss  club,  of  which  I  am  the 
Hon.  President.  The  fact  of  my  being  good  in  this  respect 
is  presumably  against  my  being  very  successful  as  a  snap- 
shot, as  from  being  accustomed  to  a  long  aim  with  a  rifle,  I 


266  AT   HOME 

often  fire  too  late.  In  the  batteries  at  Kielder,  a  great  moor 
on  the  borders  of  Scotland  with  its  Castle,  near  which  was 
fought  Chevy  Chase,  I  did  not  disgrace  myself,  though  my 
bag  was  not  of  the  largest.  When  the  birds  were  laid  out 
at  luncheon,  my  contribution  was  found  to  contain  a  grey- 
hen. I  did  not  in  the  least  know  the  difference  between  it 
and  a  grouse,  and  others,  I  believe,  occasionally  find  at  first 
a  similar  difficulty.  I  acknowledged  my  iniquity,  and  the 
old  Duke  of  Northumberland,  our  host,  good-naturedly  said 
the  mistake  was  quite  pardonable  under  the  circumstances. 
But  his  Adjutant  of  Militia,  who  came  to  the  shoot 
annually,  was  not  so  merciful,  and  was  inclined  to  be  un- 
amiably  sarcastic  regarding  my  clumsiness.  After  the 
second  shoot,  following  luncheon,  and  on  our  return  to  the 
Castle,  the  last  new  lot  of  birds  was  duly  laid  out.  And,  lo 
and  behold !  there  among  them  was  yet  another  tell-tale  grey- 
hen. Then  all,  with  one  accord,  began  to  chaff  me — quite 
good-naturedly,  however.  But  my  gillie,  who  was  present, 
would  have  none  of  it.  "  My  gentleman  had  no  grey-hen," 
he  said,  "this  time;  must  be  some  other  gentleman,  your 
Grace."  One  after  another  the  other  members  of  the  party 
disclaimed,  until  it  came  to  our  Militia  friend,  when  it  was 
ascertained  without  denial  that  he  indeed  was  the  culprit. 
The  old  Duke,  remembering  the  ill-natured  remarks  of  the 
morning,  did  not  let  the  offender  off,  and  said  what  is  ex- 
cusable in  quite  a  new  man  is  not  so  easily  condoned  in  an 
old  hand.  "  But,"  he  added,  with  a  good-natured  smile, 
"you  know  all  about  it,  for  I  heard  the  complimentary 
remarks  you  made  on  the  subject  at  luncheon."  I  think 
the  offender  deserved  it. 

From  Kielder  we  went  to  Alnwick,  our  first  visit  to  this 
splendid  old  Castle,  which,  according  to  the  hospitable  invita- 
tion of  the  then  Duke,  and  his  son  and  successor,  has  without 
fail  been  repeated  every  year  we  have  been  at  home,  and  of 
which  we  have  fortunately  been  able  to  avail  ourselves  on  many 
occasions.  The  verdict  on  this  ancient  feudal  fortress,  re- 
stored with  the  greatest  care  and  at  immense  expense,  must 


ALNWICK   CASTLE  267 

be  that  it  is  magnificent.  It  is  difficult  for  any  one  for  the 
first  few  days  to  find  his  way  through  the  many  passages 
leading  to  the  various  wings  and  towers  of  the  Castle.  Some 
of  the  rooms  are  remarkably  fine,  and  the  carvings  by  the 
Italian  workmen — brought  over  at  the  time  for  the  purpose — 
are  as  perfect  as  any  to  be  found  in  England.  I  was  dining 
one  evening,  later,  at  Lord  Granville's,  and  Lady  Granville 
asked  Baron  Hiibner,  the  well-known  diplomatist  and  traveller, 
who  was  sitting  near  me,  and  who  had  been  travelling  over 
England,  which  of  the  many  places  he  had  seen  was  the 
finest.  He  replied  without  hesitation  that,  next  to  Windsor 
Castle,  certainly  Alnwick.  And  that,  I  should  think,  would 
be  the  general  verdict.  But  having  now  myself  for  parts  of 
fifteen  years  inhabited  buildings  of  this  feudal  description, 
though  on  a  more  minute  scale,  I  am  beginning  to  think  that 
there  may  be  something  to  be  said  in  favour  of  the  modern 
residence,  even  for  the  villa  up-to-date,  with  all  modern 
improvements.  The  old  Hapsburg  Castle  of  Wildeck,  though 
one  might  have  put  four  of  them  into  Alnwick,  is,  as  it  has 
been  said,  almost  perfect  of  its  kind,  and  good  enough  for  an 
Emperor.  And  though  the  Berne  Governors  altered  much 
of  the  ancient  character  of  this  dear  old  place,  Rougemont, 
from  which  I  write,  adapting  the  Priory  to  the  wants  of  the 
Baillis  three  hundred  years  ago,  and  more  recent  Governors 
added  many  comforts  in  the  shape  of  open  fireplaces,  &c, 
still,  even  with  electric  light  and  central-heating,  it  is  behind 
modern  residences  in  many  appliances  and  advantages.  An 
objection  to  a  castle  is,  to  my  mind,  that  if  it  is  sufficiently 
supplied  with  moats,  drawbridges,  courtyards,  and  other 
picturesque  paraphernalia,  you  cannot  step  out  at  once  on 
to  the  lawn  into  the  gardens.  And,  ordinarily,  in  a  feudal- 
keep,  the  windows  are  not  so  large  as  those  which  the  archi- 
tect of  to-day  will  supply.  The  consequence  was  that,  at 
Wildeck,  the  beautiful  old  oak-panelling  had  been  painted 
white.  We  must  have  more  light,  said  the  lord  of  the  time  ; 
and  I  want  light, — I  do  not  care  for  the  aesthetic  result. 
At    Rougemont,   too,    the    panelling,    generally    of    selected 


268  AT    HOME 

pitch-pine,  had  also,  in  some  cases,  been  painted  in  the 
same  way  and  for  the  same  reasons.  At  Alnwick,  in  re- 
storing the  Castle,  the  question  of  the  light  had  not  been 
overlooked.  And  as  regards  going  out  into  the  garden 
easily,  I  suppose  the  owners  of  Alnwick  might  say  if  we 
want  that,  we  go  to  one  of  our  many  other  places  for  the 
purpose. 

One  of  the  most  absolutely  perfect  places  I  have  ever 
seen,  combining  modern  comfort  with  feudal  magnificence, 
with  position,  views,  and  everything  in  its  favour,  is  the 
Castle  of  Lenzburg,  famous  in  history,  and  situated  in 
Canton  Aargau  in  Switzerland,  near  Wildeck,  already  men- 
tioned. There  my  friend  Mr  Jessup,  after  years  of  unre- 
mitting care,  has,  at  immense  expense,  restored  this  glorious 
Castle  according  to  the  original  plans,  and  yet  made  of  it 
the  most  picturesque  and  comfortable  of  modern  abodes,  amid 
scenery  and  country  which  are  equally  romantic,  attractive, 
and  interesting.  It  is  indeed,  as  has  been  said,  like  a  Castle 
of  the  Niebelungenlied,  though  replete  with  many  conven- 
iences which  Siegfried  and  his  followers  hardly  required. 

It  was  on  a  visit  to  Alnwick  that  I  had  my  interest  first 
seriously  aroused  in  what  are  termed  "  cup  -  marks,"  and 
which  have  remained  my  chief  hobby  during  the  remainder 
of  my  life.  In  early  days  at  Nagpore,  my  friend  Mr  Stephen 
Hislop,  the  distinguished  missionary,  had  drawn  my  atten- 
tion to  certain  marks  on  the  great  stones  surrounding  the 
prehistoric  tumuli  found  in  several  parts  of  Central  India. 
These  are  marks  hollowed  out  on  the  surface  of  the  stone, 
apparently  with  some  blunt  implement.  To  my  amazement, 
I  found  markings  of  almost  exactly  similar  description  on 
some  rocks  on  the  moor  not  far  from  Alnwick.  A  great 
folio  volume,  prepared  under  the  orders  of  Duke  Algernon 
of  Northumberland,  and  of  which  his  successor  gave  me  a 
copy,  opened  my  eyes  to  the  fact  of  the  remarkable  resem- 
blance, not  only  of  the  so-called  cup-marks  but  of  other 
marks  on  the  Northumberland  rocks  and  monoliths,  to  those 
found  in  India.     The  subject  is  a  large  one,  and  cannot  be 


MY   CUP-MARK   THEORIES  269 

entered  into  here,  but  has  been  discussed  by  me1  and  others 
in  books  and  papers  written  on  many  occasions.  Suffice 
it  to  say  that  my  belief  was,  and  is,  that  these  "  cups  "  are 
a  species  of  early  ideographs,  and  that  some  of  the  other 
markings  relate  to  the  nature  worship  of  the  time,  and  which 
has  a  resemblance  to  the  cult  prevailing  in  India  and  other 
parts  of  the  world.  The  late  Duke  of  Argyll,  himself  a  dis- 
tinguished antiquarian,  to  whom  I  communicated  my  views  at 
Alnwick  at  the  time,  did  not  at  first  favour  the  idea  of  the 
phallic  connection  of  these  markings.  But  in  later  years, 
having  consulted  Sir  James  Y.  Simpson  and  other  authorities 
on  the  subject,  he  came  round  to  my  view,  and  during  the 
rest  of  his  life  used  to  take  much  interest  in  all  I  could  com- 
municate to  him  on  the  subject.  My  host  and  his  successor 
at  Alnwick  have  also  always  encouraged  me  in  my  further 
inquiries  and  finds,  and  I  am  glad  to  say  that  there  is  now 
a  general  consensus  of  opinion,  certainly  among  the  leading 
foreign  antiquarian  societies,  that  the  significance  attributed 
to  these  markings  is  mainly  correct. 

I  find  among  my  notes  an  account  of  a  conversation  I  had 
when  staying  at  the  Castle  with  Sir  John  Drummond-Hay. 
This,  it  is  true,  must  have  been  not  at  our  first  but  at  one 
of  our  more  recent  visits  there,  as  it  will  be  seen  that  the 
story  relates  to  the  time  when  Lord  Iddesleigh  (Sir  Stafford 
Northcote)  was  Foreign  Secretary.  But  as  I  do  not  propose 
in  these  further  notes  to  proceed  absolutely  chronologically, 
or  to  attempt  to  record  annually  the  events  of  visits  to 
England  or  elsewhere,  the  story  is  inserted  here. 

At  Alnwick  one  autumn  we  met  Sir  John  Drummond-Hay, 
a  cousin  of  the  Duchess.  He  was  a  delightfully  keen,  brisk, 
little  man,  active  as  a  tiger-cat,  and  always  well  forward  in 
long  tramps  through  fifty-acre  turnip-fields.  He  had  just 
come  from  his  post  at  Morocco,  and  I  asked  him  one  day 
what  sort  of  a  place  Morocco  was  ?  "  That's  rather  a  big 
question,"   said  he,   "but   Lord  Iddesleigh  said   to   me  the 

1  "Cup-Marks  as  an  Archaic  Form  of  Inscription." — Proceedings  of  the  Royal 
Asiatic  Society,  &c. 


270  AT    HOME 

other  day  something  of  the  same  sort.  He  said,  '  Sir  John, 
I  should  like  to  hear  from  you  all  about  Morocco.'  I 
answered,  My  Lord,  I  am  only  away  on  six-weeks'  leave, 
but  if  the  Foreign  Office  would  prolong  my  leave  to  say 
another  six  months,  I  think,  within  that  time,  I  might  get 
through  most  of  the  subject,  supposing  always  that  you  could 
devote  your  whole  days  to  me.  The  Secretary  of  State 
looked  doubtful,  so  I  said,  perhaps  it  would  be  enough  to 
relate  to  you  what  the  American  Admiral  remarked  to  my 
daughter  about  the  country  the  other  day.  '  You  are,'  he 
said,  '  Miss,  I  guess,  daughter  of  that  distinguished  diplo- 
matist in  Morocco,  where  I  was  until  I  came  here,  to  Gib- 
raltar, yesterday  afternoon  ?  An  interesting  place,  Miss, 
Morocco.  Whilst  I  was  there,  give  you  my  word,  Miss, 
I  felt  exactly  as  if  some  one  had  taken  me  by  the  scruff 
of  the  neck  and  dropped  me  into  the  middle  of  the  Old 
Testament ! '  That,  I  said,  gives  a  fair  idea  in  a  few  words 
of  the  Morocco  of  the  present  day.  '  Thank  you,  Sir  John,' 
said  Lord  Iddesleigh,  '  I  don't  think  it  will  be  necessary  to 
detain  you  here  beyond  your  leave ;  your  friend's  description 
gives  me  a  very  good  idea  indeed  of  the  country  and  the 
people.'  And  perhaps,"  added  Hay,  "  this  will  be  sufficient 
for  you  also  ?  " 

Hay  it  was  who,  as  a  young  attache'  at  Constantinople, 
came  to  serious  grief  with  the  great  Elchi,  who,  on  that 
occasion,  certainly  showed  a  serious  want  of  humour  in 
dealing  with  the  offender.  The  story,1  though  probably 
well  known,  is  worth  repeating,  and  has  the  merit  of  being 
true,  as  Hay  at  Alnwick  admitted  the  soft  impeachment. 
After  a  very  heavy  night's  work,  Hay  told  his  Greek  valet, 
before  going  to  bed,  that  he  intended  to  sleep  until  eight 
o'clock  the  next  morning,  and  that  he  would  shoot  any  one 
who,  on  any  pretence,  disturbed  him  before  that  hour.  And 
fierce  little  Hay  always  looked  as  if  he  meant  what  he  said. 
In  the  early  morning  arrived  some  despatches  of  importance, 
which  should  have  been  placed  at  once  before  Lord  Stratford 

1  See  Lane-Poole's  '  Life  of  Lord  Stratford  de  Redcliffe.' 


VISIT  TO   EDINBURGH  271 

by  Hay.  But  the  valet,  remembering  the  threat  of  the  previ- 
ous night,  did  not  dare  disturb  his  master  before  the  appointed 
hour.  The  Elchi,  on  hearing  the  attache's  late  explanation, 
thundered  out,  "  Damn  your  eyes,  sir  !  "  Little  Hay  drew 
his  little  self  up  as  high  as  possible,  and  bowing  low,  replied 
in  the  most  respectful  tone,  "Damn  Your  Excellency's  eyes  !  " 
It  would  have  been  more  like  the  great  man  if  he  had 
accepted  the  position  ;  but,  unfortunately,  as  a  historical 
fact,  he  sent  Hay  off  at  once  in  disgrace  in  a  despatch-boat, 
to  purge  himself  of  his  offence  before  the  Foreign  Office  in 
London. 

I  must  not  forget  to  mention  that  it  was  after  one  of  my 
many  visits  to  Alnwick  that  I  had  the  good  fortune  to  see 
a  portion  of  Scotland,  though  unfortunately  my  stay  there 
was  not  long.  Although  I  had  been  much  in  many  foreign 
lands,  yet,  like  the  average  foolish  Briton,  I  had  never  seen 
much  of  my  own  country.  My  wife,1  besides  boasting  of 
much  Highland  blood,  had  been  in  Scotland  as  a  child  with 
her  grandmother,  and  was  very  properly  Highland  in  many 
of  her  instincts.  In  the  smoking-room  at  Alnwick  I  got 
much  chaffed  at  never  having  seen  Scotland.  So  thither 
we  went,  and  saw  Edinburgh  under  the  best  of  auspices, 
having  as  our  hosts  and  cicerones  Trotter  of  Colinton, 
General  Yule  (Marco  Polo),  Ewen  Macpherson  of  Cluny, 
my  old  friend  already  mentioned,  and  Mr  Douglas  the 
publisher.  I  have  seen  in  my  time  many  cities  and  many 
beautiful  sights,  but  I  do  not  think  there  is  anything  I 
have  ever  seen  that  can  equal  the  beauty  of  the  combin- 
ation at  Edinburgh  of  sea  and  hill  and  splendid  buildings. 
And  I  returned  south  delighted  with  my  visit,  and  appreci- 
ating more  than  ever  everything  that  is  Scotch. 

Travelling  southwards,  we  halted  for  a  couple  of  days  to 
visit  some  tombs  of  my  father's  family,  some  members  of 
which,  forsaking  for  a  time  Suffolk,  had  established  them- 

1  Her  mother  was  a  daughter  of  General  Sir  John  M'Caskill,  K.C.B.,  K.C.H., 
a  distinguished  Highland  officer  from  the  Island  of  Skye,  who  was  killed  at  the 
battle  of  Moodkee. 


272  AT    HOME 

selves  at  Derby,  where  two  had  represented  the  borough 
in  Parliament.  Our  next  visit  was  to  Raynham,  already 
noticed  in  the  opening  chapter,  and  of  which  I  had  ever 
retained  the  happiest  memories.  My  father  and  his  good 
friend  the  Admiral,  the  fourth  Marquis,  had  both  been 
gathered  to  their  fathers.  But  we  were  the  guests,  in  the 
place  in  which  I  had  formerly  passed  so  many  happy  days, 
of  the  Dowager  Marchioness,  who  was  then  living  at  the 
Hall,  and  of  her  daughter,  then  Lady  Audrey  Townshend, 
from  whom  we  received  all  the  kindness  and  hospitality 
I  had  so  long  associated  with  Raynham.  Here  I  visited 
many  people  and  places  known  to  me  in  former  years,  and 
renewed  several  old  acquaintances.  The  shooting  season 
had  commenced,  and  a  distinguished  Queen's  Counsel,  who 
had  rented  a  place  in  the  neighbourhood,  was  one  of  the 
guests  I  met  at  dinner  during  my  stay  at  the  Hall,  and 
it  was  due  to  him  that  my  brother-in-law  Sir  Mortimer 
Durand  can  number  among  his  numerous  honours  that  of 
being  a  barrister-at-law. 

Many  years  ago,  on  his  being  appointed  Ambassador  to 
Washington,  some  of  the  newspapers  attached  undue  im- 
portance to  the  fact  that  Durand  was  a  barrister,  and 
suggested  that  he  had  been  selected  partly  for  that  reason, 
in  view  of  the  necessity  of  having  some  one  with  legal 
acumen  and  experience  to  watch  British  interests  in  America. 
It  is  true  that  Sir  Mortimer  Durand  is  a  barrister,  but  he 
has  never  practised,  nor  has  he  ever  had  much  legal  experi- 
ence. The  manner,  too,  in  which  he  was  admitted  to  the 
bar  was  not  a  little  amusing,  and  as  it  is  a  relic  of  past 
times,  and  came  about  under  circumstances  which  would 
be  impossible  to  -  day,  the  story  may  be  related  here. 
Learning  that  my  neighbour  at  table  was  a  barrister,  I 
told  him  how  my  brother-in-law,  who  was  then  eating  his 
dinners,  had  found,  to  his  great  disappointment,  that  he 
could  not  complete  the  operation  before  leaving  for  India, 
and  that  thus  he  must  lose  his  chance  of  being  called  to 
the  bar.     The  old  gentleman  then  asked  me  to  what  Inn 


RAYNHAM — CASTLE  ASHBY  273 

my  brother-in-law  belonged.  On  my  telling  him,  he  an- 
swered, "  Oh,  I  am  a  Bencher  and  Treasurer  of  that  Inn. 
Come  both  of  you  and  dine  with  me  on  Wednesday  next, 
and  I'll  see  what  can  be  done."  To  dinner  we  duly  went, 
and  the  result  was  that  our  friend,  being  in  authority,  got 
Durand  excused  the  remaining  dinners,  and  my  brother- 
in  -  law  went  out  to  India  a  full  -  fledged  barrister.  I 
remember  his  great  chum  and  dinner  companion  at  the 
time  was  Ralph  Neville,  —  now  Mr  Justice  Neville, — who 
throughout  life  has  remained  his  intimate  friend.  The  call 
to  the  Bar  nowadays  is  a  very  different  matter,  with  very 
stiff  examinations,  and  no  friendly  Bencher  could,  I  fear, 
haul  any  one  successfully  through  the  rules. 

From  Raynham  we  went  on  to  Rougham.  I  am  now 
writing  of  as  far  back  as  1872,  and  we  found  then  at  the 
Hall  a  brood  of  the  most  excellent  North-Keppel  blend,  a 
company  of  children  endowed  with  every  splendid  physical 
attribute,  who  rode  horses  barebacked  and  did  everything 
they  were  forbidden  to  do,  had  innumerable  accidents,  and 
yet  have  all  happily  survived  to  introduce  other  broods  not 
less  dangerous  and  wicked  than  themselves,  and  who  one 
and  all  have,  with  their  parents,  remained  my  valued  friends. 
It  was  on  this  occasion  that  I  was  nearly  blown  to  atoms  by 
Sir  Harry  Keppel  and  his  son,  as  related  in  the  first  chapter 
of  these  recollections. 

Our  next  visit  that  year  was  to  Castle  Ashby,  the  fifth 
Marquis  being  then  alive.  There  we  found  a  large  house- 
party,  included  in  which  was  one  of  my  sisters,  who  on 
the  evening  of  our  arrival  hurriedly  told  me  who  most  of 
the  company  were.  I  knew  that  one  of  the  ladies  was  a 
sister  of  the  Duke  of  Westminster,  and  at  dinner,  by  a 
process  of  exhaustion,  I  made  out  which  of  the  men  was 
her  husband,  and  paired  off  the  rest  of  the  guests  fairly 
satisfactorily  in  my  mind.  After  the  ladies  had  left  the 
room  I  found  myself  sitting  next  to  the  husband  of  Lady 
Agnes  Frank,  and  was  surprised  by  his  asking  me  some 
questions     regarding     men     I     had     recently     seen    in     an 

s 


274  AT    HOME 

out-of-the-way  station  in  India.  Then  he  told  me  that, 
until  not  very  long  before,  he  himself  had  been  in  the  Indian 
medical  service,  and  had  recently  retired.  I  heard  later  the 
history  of  this  well-known,  talented  medical  man,  to  whom 
many  sufferers  at  Cannes  and  elsewhere  have  owed  much 
in  the  alleviation  of  ailments  and  the  improvement  of  their 
health.  He  had  been  on  leave  from  India  when  he  went 
to  Madeira  one  year  with  Lady  Marion  Alford  in  charge 
of  her  son,  Lord  Brownlow,  who  was  then  very  ill.  My 
brother-in-law,  Mr  Tilghman-Huskisson,  and  sister  were  of 
the  party,  and  owed  much  to  Dr  Frank's  attention.  I 
believe  that,  at  his  death,  Lord  Brownlow  left  a  handsome 
legacy  to  his  distinguished  medical  attendant.  On  this 
Dr  Frank  retired  from  the  Indian  medical  service,  and 
going  later  with  a  red-cross  party  to  the  Franco -Prussian 
War,  he  there  met  Lady  Agnes  Campbell,  who  had  lost 
her  husband,  and  who  was  also  assisting  in  ambulance 
work.  Later  they  married.  And  this  was  how  my  neigh- 
bour at  dinner,  the  husband  of  a  sister  of  the  Duke  of 
Westminster,  knew,  to  my  surprise,  much  about  Mainpuri 
and  some  other  remote  Indian  stations.  Castle  Ashby  is, 
I  believe,  acknowledged  to  be  one  of  the  most  perfect  of 
the  fine  Elizabethan  mansions  of  which  England  is  so  justly 
proud.  My  host  told  me  that  Compton  Wynyates,  also 
the  property  of  the  family,  is  equally  meritorious  as  a 
specimen  of  the  architecture  of  that  time.  But  it  lies 
somewhat  off  the  line,  and  I  have  never  seen  it.  Still,  I 
think  any  one  who  was  not  content  with  Castle  Ashby 
would  be  hard  to  please.  The  rooms  and  everything  in 
them  were  very  beautiful,  all  in  the  most  perfect  style, 
Lord  Northampton  being  well  known  as  an  accomplished 
artist  with  strong  artistic  tastes.  In  the  sitting-room  allotted 
to  my  use  was,  I  remember,  among  other  valuables,  a  Garter 
that  belonged  to  Charles  I.,  and  the  treasures  in  this  and 
other  rooms  were  untold. 

In  those  days  Lord  Alwyne  Compton,  who  was  vicar  of 
Castle  Ashby,  and  Lady  Alwyne  lived  with  their  brother  at 


NIAGARA    DESCRIBED  275 

the  Castle  and  kept  house  for  him,  Lord  Northampton  being 
an  invalid.  Lord  Alwyne,  afterwards  Bishop  of  Ely,  had  the 
most  delightful  library  in  a  wing  of  the  Castle,  full  of  rare 
books,  to  which  his  taste  always  ran,  and  which  he  was 
most  generous  in  showing  and  explaining.  Lady  Marion 
Alford,  the  sister,  was  also  in  the  house, — one  of  the  most 
amusing  of  women,  many  of  whose  sayings  and  doings  have 
been  related  by  Mr  Leveson-Gower,  her  brother-in-law,  and 
others ;  whilst  Lady  Alwyne  Compton  has  long  been  known 
as  one  of  the  most  perfect  of  hostesses  and  accomplished  of 
women.  There  is  to  be  found  at  Castle  Ashby,  as  in  many  old 
houses,  more  than  one  side  staircase,  which,  to  those  who 
know  the  place,  give  short  cuts  down  below.  The  system 
under  which  a  servant  of  a  visitor  in  a  house  goes  by  the 
name  of  his  master  or  mistress  is  well  known.  Lady  Marion 
Alford's  maid  was  supposed  to  resemble  her  mistress  some- 
what in  figure  and  appearance.  The  story  went  that  one 
afternoon  as  Lady  Marion  was  running  down  the  side  stair- 
case, known  to  her  from  her  childhood,  she  came  in  the 
dusk  upon  the  butler  escorting  upstairs  the  valet  of  a  new 
arrival.  Mistaking  the  mistress  for  the  maid,  he  said,  "  Oh, 
let  me  introduce  you  to  Lady  Marion  Alford."  She  amused 
us  much,  I  remember,  by  producing  one  afternoon  a  letter 
received  from  the  son  of  an  upper-servant  who  had  gone 
to  Canada  as  footman  with  Lord  Monck.  He  had  sent 
his  parents  an  account  of  a  visit  to  Niagara.  After  giving 
some  details,  he  finished  up  with — "  But,  after  all,  what  is 
it  but  water  falling  over  rocks?  Still,  how  great  an  effect 
is  produced  with  such  scanty  materials  !  "  Castle  Ashby 
will  remain  in  my  mind  as  one  of  the  last  places  at  which 
I  shot  partridges  over  dogs  —  the  very  preferable  system 
obtaining  in  old  days  before  machinery  had  abolished  a 
decent  stubble.  Lord  Northampton  being  an  invalid, 
machinery,  with  its  noise,  was  not  allowed  near  the  Castle. 
The  consequence  was  that  there  was  stubble  to  be  found, 
and  that  the  birds  were  not  driven,  but  were  shown  to  us 
after  some  pretty  working  by  the  dogs.     And  we  went  from 


276  AT   HOME 

stubble  to  turnips,  and  turnips  to  stubble,  quite  after  the 
manner  of  old  days,  to  the  high  appreciation  of  Colonel 
Dickins,  one  of  the  house-party,  and  myself. 

When  in  town  I  did  my  best  to  see  what  could  be  done 
to  check  my  old  friend,  the  then  Marquis  Townshend,  of 
the  extravagant  tendency  he  had  developed  of  giving  away 
his  money  with  both  hands  to  all  who  came  to  him,  and, 
telling  a  harrowing  tale,  asked  for  assistance.  I  had  known 
him  intimately  when  I  was  a  boy  and  before  I  went  out  to 
India,  and  knew  that  his  extravagances  did  not  run,  like 
many  of  his  class,  to  the  turf  or  cards.  But  he  had  de- 
veloped these  other  extravagances  almost  as  ruinous.  In 
his  not-always-well-considered  generosity  Lord  Townshend 
occasionally,  it  is  to  be  hoped,  did  some  good  in  relieving 
here  and  there  a  deserving  case.  But  there  is  no  doubt 
he  was  frequently  imposed  upon,  and  that  much  money 
went  to  undeserving  persons.  The  mischief  caused  by  in- 
discriminate charity  is  undoubted.  Still,  if  occasionally 
some  deserving  case  is  relieved,  or  some  poor  sufferer  goes 
away  with  a  shilling  or  so,  feeling  that  the  rich  man  is 
not  always  so  deaf  to  entreaty  as  represented,  then  some 
good  may  result,  even  if  the  measure  is  not  large.  Lord 
Townshend  was  painfully  impressed  by  his  responsibilities 
in  respect  to  the  poor,  arising  from  his  being  a  rich  man 
and  having  a  great  title.  Undoubtedly  he  carried  the  idea 
too  far,  and  helped  to  ruin  himself  without  doing  the  good 
that  carefully  administered  charity  might  have  secured.  But 
all  that  he  did  was  done  most  unselfishly  and  with  the 
highest  motives.  Some  of  my  time  then  was  taken  up, 
at  his  mother's  earnest  request,  in  trying  to  put  on  the 
brake,  and  to  introduce  more  economical  methods.  And 
for  the  moment  I  had  some  hope  of  success.  This  I  at 
least  saw,  that  many  of  the  poor,  even  those  who  imposed 
upon  him,  had  a  great  respect,  not  for  his  cunning,  per- 
haps, but  for  his  undoubted  kindness  and  generosity.  It 
was  said,  I  remember,  by  some  socialistic  agitator  of  the 
time,  that  if  the  poor  broke  out  and  despoiled  the  houses 


SOME    LONDON    CHARITIES  277 

of  the  rich,  as  agitators  sometimes  counselled  them  to  do, 
the  man  who  in  all  the  poor  quarters  of  London  went 
by  the  name  of  "  The  Good  Marquis  "  would  be  protected 
by  the  mob,  both  in  person  and  in  goods. 

Lord  Townshend,  in  the  days  of  which  I  write,  was  con- 
nected with  a  number  of  societies,  of  more  or  less  merit, 
all  having  as  their  object  the  alleviation  of  distress.  Since 
that  day  'Truth,'  with  great  ability  and  success,  has  exposed 
many  undeserving  and  even  not  a  few  swindling  societies,  and 
has  shown  how  even  some  that  claim  merit  waste  an  undue 
proportion  of  their  funds  in  keeping  up  well-paid  staffs  with 
comfortable  offices,  and  '  The  Times '  to  consult  daily  as 
regards  the  progress  of  charitable  relief.  I  fear  me  that 
some,  at  least,  of  Lord  Townshend's  charities  were  not  well 
administered.  It  was  the  old  story.  A  certain  number  of 
persons,  sometimes  men  with  great  titles,  allowed  their 
names  to  appear  on  the  list  of  the  committee.  After  that 
they  took  little  part  in  the  proceedings  of  the  society  unless 
specially  whipped  up  for  the  occasion.  In  most  cases  Lord 
Townshend  was  the  president,  and  there  was  generally  a 
paid  secretary.  When  I  first  arrived  at  home  I  was  put 
on  to  some  of  these  committees,  and  when  I  was  employed 
under  the  Duke  of  Argyll  at  the  India  Office  I  would  go 
over  to  luncheon  in  Dover  Street  and  attend  the  afternoon 
sitting  of  the  committee.  I  do  not  ever  remember  any 
question  about  forming  a  quorum,  and  I  think,  when  I  was 
not  there,  the  president  and  the  secretary  were  considered 
quite  sufficient  to  dispose  of  most  business.  Inasmuch  as 
this  was  generally  represented  by  urgent  cases  for  the  relief 
of  which  no  funds  were  available,  but  which  were  immedi- 
ately disposed  of  by  the  president  writing  a  cheque  for  the 
amount  required,  no  large  attendance  of  members  of  com- 
mittee was  necessary. 

Before  I  left  for  India,  at  the  end  of  the  year,  I  had  suc- 
ceeded in  getting  at  the  interior  working  of  one  of  these  so- 
called  charitable  societies,  and  had  seen  it  receive  its  quietus. 
I  am  now  an  old  man,  writing  of  the  events  of  forty  years 


278  AT   HOME 

ago ;  and  although  I  have  forgotten  the  names  of  some  of  the 
actors,  and  as  they,  being  all  men  much  older  than  myself, 
must  have  long  since  disappeared,  still  I  am  quite  clear  as 
to  the  salient  facts.  It  was  the  day  of  the  committee  meet- 
ing of  a  society  which,  if  I  remember  right,  had  for  its  ob- 
jects universal  benevolence,  and  was  highly  meritorious  and 
chivalrous  indeed  in  its  aim.  As  I  arrived  in  Dover  Street, 
just  before  lunch,  a  respectable-looking  man,  addressing  me 
at  the  doorstep,  told  me  he  was  a  party  to  a  case  that  was 
to  come  before  the  committee  that  afternoon,  and  begged 
that  it  might  not  be  disposed  of  without  his  being  first 
heard  in  explanation.  I  told  him  I  was  not  the  president, 
for  whom  he  had  mistaken  me,  but  that  I  would  see  to 
his  wishes  receiving  attention.  In  the  hall  was  the  usual 
crowd  of  beggars,  of  sorts,  to  whom  admittance  was  seldom 
denied  if  they  appeared  sufficiently  squalid  and  in  want. 
After  luncheon  the  committee  of  this  society,  to  which  I 
had  only  recently  been  appointed,  met  in  the  library.  As 
usual  in  similar  cases,  it  consisted  of  the  president,  the 
secretary,  and  myself.  After  a  few  minor  matters  had  been 
disposed  of,  the  secretary,  who  looked  shifty  and  of  the 
Jewish  persuasion,  said,  "This  is  a  case  to  which  I  wish 
your  lordship's  signature,  as  we  must  engage  counsel  to 
prosecute  in  the  police  court, — a  very  bad  case  indeed." 
And  as  he  mentioned  the  names,  I  recognised  that  of  the 
man  who  had  given  me  his  card  at  the  door,  and  to  whom  I 
had  promised  a  hearing.  "  Not  so  fast,"  I  pleaded.  "  There 
is  a  man  outside  to  whom  I  have  promised  that  he  shall  tell 
his  story  in  this  case  before  we  proceed  to  judgment."  The 
secretary  was  all  astonishment.  He  had  been  at  this  busi- 
ness for  some  time,  and  had  ever  had  his  own  way,  there 
being  never  any  one  present  to  interfere.  He  protested.  I 
insisted,  went  myself  and  produced  the  man,  who  was  wait- 
ing outside,  and  who  commenced  to  tell  his  tale,  which 
was  something  after  this  fashion. 

He  held  a  good  place  in  a  well-known  firm  in  the  city, 
the   principals   of  which  were   strict    Nonconformists.      He 


SOME    LONDON    CHARITIES  279 

had  been  married  several  years  previously  to  a  woman, 
a  Jewess,  who  had  made  life  so  intolerable  that  event- 
ually he  was  obliged  to  separate  from  her.  Since  that 
time  she  had  followed  him  with  relentless  ferocity,  trying 
to  ruin  him  and  avenge  what  she  described  as  her  wrongs. 
He  had,  he  told  us,  taken  to  himself  another  woman.  He 
did  not  defend  the  morality  of  it,  but  had  found  it  diffi- 
cult to  live  alone  and  manage  a  house,  and  the  woman 
had  been  devoted  to  him,  and  had  nursed  him  through  a 
dangerous  illness.  Recently  a  child  had  been  born  to 
them.  The  birth  had  been  registered  by  him,  and  as  the 
woman  was  known  in  the  neighbourhood,  respected  and 
supposed  to  be  his  wife,  he,  in  entering  the  mother's 
name  on  the  register,  had  given  her  his  own  name.  That 
might  have  been  incorrect,  and  he  regretted  it  if  wrong. 
But  the  Society  for  Universal  Benevolence  now,  he  under- 
stood, had,  in  the  cause  of  public  morality,  determined  to 
take  the  case  up  and  to  prosecute  him  in  the  police  court 
for  forgery,  false  entry,  and  possibly  other  counts.  He  had 
taken  advice,  and  was  assured  that  some  of  the  charges  at 
least  would  not  stand.  But  what  he  wanted  was  to  prevent 
the  case  being  published  by  getting  into  the  police  court, 
and  reported  as  prosecuted  backed  by  the  support  of  the 
powerful  society  which  had  so  many  distinguished  men  on 
the  committee,  and  who  would  be  supposed  to  be  quite 
incapable  of  supporting  a  case  that  was  not  clear  and  de- 
serving of  the  most  exemplary  punishment.  The  case,  he 
said,  had  been  entirely  got  up  by  his  persecutor,  the  wife, 
who  had  hunted  it  out,  been  to  the  secretary  with  it,  and 
had  accompanied  this  man  to  the  house  that  morning  in 
the  full  hope  of  getting  the  society's  imprimatur,  and  then 
taking  the  case  into  the  police  court.  She  wanted  little 
more  than  that.  His  principals  would  read  the  whole  case 
in  the  papers,  and  he  would  be  ruined.  They  would  not 
tolerate  a  scandal  connected  with  one  of  the  managers  in 
their  office.  That  was  the  whole  story.  Did  we  condemn 
him  to  ruin  ? 


280  AT    HOME 

The  court  was  cleared  for  deliberation.  The  secretary 
considered  it  necessary  to  favour  us  with  his  presence. 
He  volunteered  that  it  was  absolutely  one  of  the  worst 
cases  that  in  his  experience,  &c.  I,  however,  said  that 
the  order  was  utterly  preposterous,  and  that  the  society 
should  certainly  not,  so  far  as  I  was  concerned,  spend 
one  halfpenny  of  its  funds  in  instructing  counsel  in  such 
a  case.  The  secretary  appealed  to  the  president  that  his 
experience,  &c.  But  I  stuck  to  my  guns,  and  informed 
him  that  if  I  had  not  much  experience  in  London  cases, 
I  had  been  a  Magistrate,  was  a  Justice  of  the  Peace,  and 
had  some  knowledge  of  mankind.  He  made  a  last  struggle, 
and,  appealing  to  the  president,  said  that  it  was  quite  evi- 
dent that  the  very  natural  desire  of  the  new  member  of 
committee  was  to  protect  the  funds  of  the  society.  He  had 
omitted  to  mention  that  another  party  was  quite  ready  to 
guarantee  any  expense  that  might  be  incurred,  so  long  as 
the  prosecution  was  in  the  name  of  the  society.  I  said 
this  made  it  more  than  ever  evident  that  it  was  all  a  put-up 
affair  by  this  spiteful  woman,  and  that  nothing  would  per- 
suade me  to  allow  the  name  of  the  society  to  be  used. 
The  secretary  seemed  to  think  he  had  his  match,  and  un- 
gracefully gave  way.  I  insisted  in  it  being  recorded  that 
the  society  declined  to  prosecute,  and  thought  no  more 
about  the  matter. 

Ten  days  later,  returning  from  Norfolk,  where  I  had 
been  shooting,  I  read  in  '  The  Times,'  to  my  extreme  sur- 
prise, a  report  of  this  case,  with  names  and  facts  all  com- 
plete, prosecuted  in  the  police  court  in  the  name  of  the 
society.  I  saw  at  once  the  hand  of  the  secretary,  who 
thought  I  had  left  for  India,  but  did  not  know  that, 
at  the  last  moment,  the  Secretary  of  State  had  detained 
me  for  six  weeks  longer.  I  was  furious.  I  went  off  at 
once  to  Dover  Street  and  asked  the  president  whether,  by 
any  chance,  he  had  changed  his  mind  in  my  absence  and 
authorised  the  prosecution  ?  He  said  no,  he  had  not  seen 
the  secretary  since.     A  well-known  Q.C.,  a  friend  of  mine, 


LONDON    POVERTY  28l 

was  on  the  committee,  but,  like  the  others,  seldom  troubled 
himself  about  the  society's  affairs.  To  him  I  went  and 
unfolded  my  tale.  He  was  a  strong,  sensible  man,  and 
with  his  assistance  something  of  the  doings  of  the  secre- 
tary was  revealed.  After  further  investigation  my  friend 
and  I  found  ample  evidence  on  which  to  get  rid  of  the 
secretary,  even  if,  with  a  desire  not  to  wash  the  society's 
linen  in  public,  he  were  allowed  to  escape  prosecution. 
Eventually,  before  I  left  for  India  at  the  close  of  the  year, 
that  committee  met,  this  time  in  force,  all  those  with  big 
names  attending  in  their  chivalrous  desire  to  be  of  use  in 
the  universal  cause  of  benevolence.  And  my  barrister 
friend  stated  the  case  pretty  squarely.  The  secretary  was 
ill,  and  did  not  appear.  But  the  case  against  him  was 
quite  clear.  Allowed  to  have  pretty  well  his  own  way, 
he  had  thought  out  a  system  of  feathering  his  nest  with 
the  aid  of  one  or  two  intelligent  police  -  constables.  If 
gossip  brought  the  news  of  some  girl  misbehaving  with 
a  man  and  resulting  in  a  child  being  born,  the  offending 
father  would  be  sought  out,  and  he  would  be  told  that  the 
case  was  considered  so  black  that  the  society  would  have 
to  prosecute  it  in  the  police  court.  Only  such  cases  were 
touched  as  included  a  man  able  to  pay  and  to  whom  it 
would  mean  ruin  to  be  exposed.  He  would  in  such  a 
case  probably  be  ready  to  pay  a  fair  sum  to  get  the  threat- 
ened prosecution  stopped,  and  the  parties  to  the  plot  would 
divide  the  spoils.  This,  we  learnt,  had  been  going  on  for 
some  time.  And  the  evil  that  could  be  wrought  by  a  society 
started  with  all  good  intentions,  if  its  management  were  not 
properly  overlooked,  was  sufficiently  apparent.  The  society, 
I  heard,  broke  up  soon  afterwards,  and  probably  no  one  has 
since  been  much  the  worse  for  its  decease. 

I  saw  in  those  days  enough  of  London  poverty  to  convince 
me  that,  if  I  came  much  in  contact  with  it,  I  should  prob- 
ably take  it  to  heart  nearly  as  much  as  did  my  good,  gener- 
ous, but  not  well-advised  friend,  the  late  Lord  Townshend. 
I  estimate  roughly  that,  by  living  abroad  and  being  spared 


282  AT    HOME 

the,  to  me,  real  distress  of  seeing  those  around  me  in  terrible 
suffering,  to  which  I  cannot  adequately  minister,  is  as  good 
to  me  as  an  addition  to  my  income  of  £1000  a-year,  calcu- 
lated on  the  following  basis.  Sir  Henry  Maine  used  to  tell 
us  how  the  son  of  one  of  his  best  friends  had  entered  the 
Indian  Civil  Service  long  ago,  in  the  days  before  competi- 
tion, when  bad  bargains  for  the  service  were  occasionally 
known.  This  son  was  a  character  in  his  way,  but  extremely 
idle  and  unmanageable.  The  result  was  that,  whilst  his 
contemporaries  had  advanced  to  good  positions  with  high 
salaries,  this  gentleman,  after  many  years'  service,  was 
blocked  in  the  unpromising  appointment  of  Small  Cause 
Court  Judge  at  an  inferior  station.  This  had  exercised  his 
family,  and  Sir  Henry  Maine  then  being  in  high  position 
in  India,  had  undertaken  to  see  what  could  be  done  to  mend 
matters  with  the  unpromising  young  man.  Halting  one 
day  at  the  station  where  lived  the  subject  of  this  notice, 
Sir  Henry  Maine  went  to  the  Judge's  house  to  interview 
him,  as  nothing  would  induce  this  eccentric  to  call  on  Sir 
Henry  or  on  any  one  else.  Opening  the  conversation,  Sir 
Henry  explained  the  concern  with  which  his  parents  had 
noticed  the  small  progress  made  by  their  son  in  the  service. 
The  young  man  announced  himself  to  be  entirely  contented 
with  his  excellent  appointment.  "How  can  you  be,"  answers 
the  Member  of  Council,  "  with  your  contemporaries  all 
ahead  of  you  ?     Why,  what  do  you  consider  this  wretched 

little  appointment  worth  ?  "     "  Worth  ?  "  replies  Mr  F . 

"  Why,  sir,  I  calculate  roughly  about  five  thousand  rupees 
a-month."  "  Absurd,"  says  Sir  Henry.  "  Why,  such  a 
salary  is  not  paid  to  any  one  much  under  the  rank  of 
Member  of  Council,  and  even  your  contemporaries  who  are 
all  well  ahead  of  you  do  not  draw  such  a  salary."  "  Oh, 
pardon,"  replied  the  offender,  "  I  thought  you  asked  me 
what  I  considered  my  appointment  worth,  not  what  salary 
I  received.  It  is  true  I  draw  but  a  modest  one  thousand 
rupees  a-month  as  pay.  But  then,  sir,  you  see  that,  as 
Small  Court  Judge,  there  is   no  appeal  from   my  decisions. 


VALUE   OF    RELIEF  283 

And  I  put  down  that  valuable  advantage  as  at  least  worth 
one  thousand  rupees  a-month.  I  don't  really  know  what 
would  happen  to  me  if  my  decisions  were  appealed.  And 
then,"  continued  the  incorrigible,  "being  no  longer  a 
District  Officer,  I  am  spared  all  the  nuisance  of  being 
mixed  up  with  that  intolerable  humbug  of  Education.  I 
reckon  that  gain  at,  at  least,  another  two  thousand  a-month, 
and  that  is  quite  a  moderate  estimate,  I  think."  Sir  Henry 
had  begun  to  see  the  class  of  man  with  whom  he  had  to 
deal,  and  cut  short  the  visit,  writing  to  tell  the  father  that 
the  son  was  quite  impossible. 

Well,  according  to  this  style  of  calculation,  I  consider 
the  saving  to  my  feelings  by  living  here,  in  the  moun- 
tains, amidst  this  Swiss  population,  where  distress  from 
insufficient  means  is  practically  unknown,  and  where  the 
people  are  all  fairly  well-to-do  and  quite  contented,  to  be 
worth  to  me  at  least  one  thousand  pounds  a-year.  This 
valley  knows  no  very  rich  men.  But,  on  the  other  hand, 
it  is  free  of  those  in  the  opposite  extreme.  For  the  most 
part  the  men  are  yeomen  farmers,  each  with  a  certain 
number  of  acres  and  a  cow  or  two.  There  are  some 
without  capital  and  estate,  who  work  for  their  daily  bread, 
and  are  safe  so  long  as  health  lasts  or  accident  does 
not  overcome  them.  Then  there  is  trouble.  Health  is 
counted  as  above  all  treasures,  and  the  greeting  always  is, 
"  Good  conservation."  An  excellent  system  of  communal 
relief  will  generally  see  the  poor  man  through  his  troubles 
if  sickness  and  accident  overtake  him.  I  have  been  here 
some  years,  and  have  as  yet  seen  no  real  distress,  though 
there  are  some  who  are  poor.  And  a  beggar  is  quite 
unknown. 

Is  it  too  much   to    apprise   the   advantage   of  this  relief 
at  £1000  a-year  ? 


284 


CHAPTER    XIII. 


THE     FAMINE. 


1874. 

Return  to  India — Change  in  the  Government — My  special  duties  nearly 
worked  out — -Proposals  to  abolish  my  appointment — Lord  North- 
brook's  fairness  and  support — Major  Baring  his  Private  Secretary, 
now  the  Earl  of  Cromer — Appointed  Special  Commissioner  for 
Bengal  Famine — Purchase  of  grain  and  organisation  of  transport 
— Bullock-carts  and  mule-  and  pony-trains  —  Large  number  of 
military  officers  employed — Trains  organised  in  charge  of  sepoys, 
commanded  by  British  officers  —  Their  patience,  energy,  and 
splendid  services  —  Difficulties  on  the  road  —  Sir  Ian  Hamilton's 
first  appearance  at  Allahabad — Other  workers  on  the  Famine — 
The  Native  staff — Romany  Babu — The  Great  Gugun — Appreci- 
ation by  the  British  officer  of  the  Native  staff — The  local  chaplain 
and  his  candidates — Clerk  and  chorister — His  disappearance — 
Accounted  for  —  Subsequent  career  —  A  different  specimen  —  A 
Rugby  boy — Officer — Fireman — The  new  moon  fatal — Efforts  to 
pull  him  through — Vicissitudes — Ultimate  triumph — Peaceful  end 
as  planter  and  sportsman  —  Experiences  with  drunkenness  —  My 
theories  regarding  food  and  cooking  as  a  deterrent  —  Difficulties 
of  providing  for  me  —  Am  appointed  Benares  Opium  Agent — 
Advantages  of  the  appointment — In  harbour — Babu's  interpreta- 
tion of  a  haven — The  Indian  opium  revenue — The  Benares  agency 
— The  staff — Methods — The  pleasures  of  patronage — An  impossible 
yet  strictly  true  experience. 

I  left  England  at  the  close  of  my  holiday  in  December 
1872,  and  the  commencement  of  1873  saw  me  back  in 
Allahabad,  where  the  headquarters  of  the  Commissioner  of 
Cotton  and  Commerce  then  were.  But  the  official  life  to 
which  I  now  returned  was  very  different  indeed  to  that  in 
which  I  had  been  indulged,  under  the  personal  support  of 


RETURN    TO    INDIA  285 

Lord  Mayo,  during  the  preceding  years.  A  new  Viceroy 
had  arrived  —  one  who  knew  not  Joseph,  and  whose  views 
on  many  subjects  were  different  from  those  of  his  pre- 
decessor. I  had  good  reason  to  like  and  respect  Lord 
Northbrook,  who,  from  the  first,  treated  me  with  the 
greatest  fairness.  But  I  seldom  came  into  personal  contact 
with  him,  whilst  with  Lord  Mayo  I  had  almost  been  as  one 
of  his  own  staff.  Lord  Mayo  was  much  interested  in  the 
affairs  of  my  Department,  and  gave  to  them  his  personal 
attention.  For  Lord  Northbrook  they  had  not  the  same 
interest.  He  was  new  to  the  work  of  Viceroy,  and  had 
many  other  much  more  pressing  and  important  matters  to 
occupy  him  than  those  connected  with  cotton  and  com- 
merce. Moreover,  as  already  noticed,  even  towards  the 
close  of  Lord  Mayo's  reign  it  was  beginning  to  be  apparent 
that,  in  respect  to  the  cotton  trade,  my  work  was  nearly 
played  out,  and  that,  consequently,  I  had  been  occasionally 
employed  on  work  that  did  not  strictly  belong  to  my  office. 
The  state  of  the  finances  necessitated  economy.  My  high- 
paid  appointment  was  no  longer  a  necessity,  as  it  might 
have  been  during  the  cotton  famine  and  before  the  Euro- 
pean merchants  were  comfortably  settled  up-country.  More- 
over, my  Department  had,  it  was  said,  been  spoilt,  and  the 
sooner  we  could  be  disposed  of  the  better.  I  am  obliged 
to  admit  that  much  advanced  by  those  who  urged  that  the 
appointment  should  be  abolished  was  fair  enough.  That 
my  work  was  nearly  played  out  was  admitted  by  myself. 
And  that  I  was  not  an  economical  administrator  of  my  own 
or  any  other  funds  was  equally  true.  As  Lord  Mayo  had 
said  of  me,  if  I  was  told  to  do  a  thing  I  could  be  trusted 
to  get  it  done,  but  I  seldom  reckoned  the  expense  either  to 
myself  or  any  one  else.  There  was,  then,  a  fair  case  for 
the  abolition  of  the  Department,  and  many  did  not  care  much 
if  this  left  me  without  office,  so  long  as  the  saving  could 
appear  in  the  budget.  I  had  a  very  unpleasant  time  during 
the  next  few  months,  but  Lord  Northbrook,  who  was  essen- 
tially fair,  and  who  had  treated  me  well  throughout,  would 


286  THE    FAMINE 

have  none  of  these  things ;  and  I  was  conscious  that  I  owed 
much  to  the  support  of  his  Private  Secretary  and  kinsman, 
then  Major  Baring,  now  the  well-known  Earl  of  Cromer. 
The  appointment  was  retained,  as  to  abolish  it  then  would 
have  appeared  a  reflection  on  me.  Still,  it  was  hardly  clear 
how  my  services  were  to  be  utilised.  The  Berar  cotton 
trade  had,  so  to  speak,  grown  up,  and  no  longer  required 
me  as  a  preceptor  or  guardian.  The  Viceroy  had  no  place 
for  me  in  Calcutta,  and  was  occupied  on  affairs  other  than 
had  chiefly  interested  the  past  regime.  But  I  was  soon  to 
have  my  hands  as  full  as  ever.  A  serious  famine  was 
recognised  in  Behar.  Large  supplies  of  grain  were  required. 
The  difficulty  of  getting  food  to  the  distressed  districts  was 
great.  The  absence  of  railway  communication  necessitated 
special  arrangements  to  carry  the  grain  to  the  districts 
affected,  and  to  distribute  it  when  there.  Lord  Northbrook 
was  pleased  to  appoint  me  as  Commissioner  of  Commerce, 
to  be  also  a  Special  Commissioner  for  Famine  work,  and 
to  entrust  to  me  the  purchase  of  large  quantities  of  grain 
in  the  Upper  Provinces,  and  also  the  purchase  and  organi- 
sation of  a  vast  transport-train,  bullock-carts,  mules,  ponies, 
and  the  like,  to  carry  the  grain  from  the  railway  to  the 
distressed  centres.  And  then  began  again  a  further  spell 
of  special  work  which,  for  the  time  it  lasted,  was  to  be 
nearly  as  severe  as  that  of  some  of  the  special  undertakings 
with  which  I  had  already  been  entrusted  in  the  former 
years  of  my  service. 

The  headquarters  of  my  office  had  for  some  years  past 
been  at  Allahabad,  and  I  was  established  there  in  a  well- 
known  double-storied  house  in  cantonments,  known  as  the 
General's  House,  built  originally  for  the  General,  but  which 
no  General  had  yet  occupied,  and  which  by  permission  was 
rented  by  me.  This,  with  a  whole  camp  full  of  tents  within 
the  grounds,  was  now  to  become  a  very  busy  and  active 
centre  of  Famine  Supply.  The  Government  treated  me 
liberally  as  to  staff.  I  was  given  an  officer  of  nearly  my  own 
standing  in  the  service,  my  friend  Mr  J.  H.  Twigg,  I.C.S.,  as 


THE    BENGAL    FAMINE  287 

my  deputy,  and  to  carry  on  business  during  my  constant 
scampering  about  and  absence.  I  was  supplied  with  an 
experienced  officer  of  the  Financial  Department,  Mr  Gugun 
Chunder  Rai,  who  had  charge  of  the  financial  side  of  my 
office,  and  performed  towards  me  the  same  duties  as  an 
Accountant-General  does  to  a  Local  Government — that  is, 
check  of  expenditure,  observance  of  rule,  and  general  advice 
on  financial  matters. 

In  addition  to  these,  the  number  of  military  officers 
employed  under  my  orders  was  very  large,  and  at  one  time 
nearly  reached  the  figure  of  100.  These  were  mostly  passed 
on  by  me  to  the  famine  districts  in  charge  of  transport  trains. 
For,  having  purchased  the  grain,  it  had  to  be  placed  at 
certain  distant  points  in  Behar,  and  for  this  purpose  the  carts 
and  cattle  already  noticed  had  to  be  organised  into  trains. 
Army  headquarters  supplied  a  considerable  body  of  non- 
commissioned officers  and  men  from  native  regiments.  To 
each  train  of  carts  was  attached  a  certain  number  of  sepoys 
or  sowars,  who  looked  after  the  cart-men,  guarded  the  grain, 
and  saw  the  carts  through  the  many  difficulties  of  road  and 
camp.  Being  accustomed  to  carts  in  their  native  villages, 
the  sepoys  were  adepts  at  these  duties.  Each  train  was  in 
charge  of  a  British  officer.  At  my  headquarters  I  had  a 
considerable  staff.  After  my  deputy,  Mr  Twigg,  C.S.,  came 
Major  Affleck- Graves,  R.A.,  who  during  the  whole  of  the 
period  was  my  most  efficient  chief  Secretary.  With  him 
were  Captains  Apperley  and  Vivian,  employed  in  my  office, 
and  Lieutenant  Algernon  Durand,1  my  wife's  youngest 
brother,  who  had  now  come  out  to  India  with  his  regiment, 
and  acted  as  my  Private  Secretary.  We  had  not  only  to 
purchase  large  numbers  of  mules  and  ponies,  but  we  had  to 
make  for  these  and  fit  on  to  them  saddles  and  bags  to  carry 
the  grain.  Those  who  have  had  experience  of  such  matters 
can  form  some  idea  of  the  trouble  entailed.  For  the  manage- 
ment of  this  difficult  duty,  I  had,  at  headquarters,  two 
experienced  officers,  Major  Anderson  and  Captain  Pearson, 

1  Now  Colonel  Algernon  Durand,  C.B.,  CLE. 


288  THE    FAMINE 

both  of  the  Horse  Artillery,  and  as  such  accustomed  to  both 
horses  and  harness ;  and  under  them,  in  the  districts,  to  help 
select  and  purchase  the  cattle,  several  officers  were  employed 
from  time  to  time.  In  the  Behar  country,  to  take  over  the 
carts  when  they  arrived,  there  was,  as  my  deputy,  Colonel  de 
Kantzow,  a  very  able  officer,  whose  work  was  at  all  times  of 
the  hardest,  but  who  was  specially  valuable  to  me  when,  at 
the  close  of  the  famine,  the  large  number  of  surplus  mules 
and  ponies  had  to  be  disposed  of.  We  all  worked  at  high 
pressure  in  those  days.  My  house  at  Allahabad  and  the 
camp  in  the  grounds  were  like  a  beehive.  What  with  the 
staff  at  the  office,  and  officers  passing  through,  we  seldom  sat 
down  less  than  a  dozen  at  any  given  meal.  Some  senior 
officers  down-country  who  found  themselves  similarly  situated, 
obtained  from  Government  a  sumptuary  allowance  to  cover 
what  was  obviously  a  great  expense.  But  although  this  was 
offered  me,  I  fortunately  declined  it,  and  so  was  at  no  time 
liable  to  some  ill-natured  fellow  considering  he  had  a  right 
to  loaf  about  my  house,  abuse  the  food  and  liquor,  and 
declare  that  my  time  was  chiefly  occupied  in  saving  money 
out  of  the  liberal  allowance  made  me  by  Government  to 
supply  him  and  his  "  pals  "  with  food  and  liquor,  and  of  their 
share  of  which  they  were  being  shamefully  defrauded  ! 

The  scene  to  be  witnessed  at  the  railway  station  at  Allaha- 
bad on  a  very  hot  hot-weather  day  during  these  times,  when 
British  officers,  very  lightly  clothed,  were  trying  to  persuade 
some  little-travelled  ponies  or  mules  to  accommodate  them- 
selves to  the  comforts  of  a  railway  truck,  was  a  sight  to  be 
remembered,  and  the  patience  and  resource  exhibited  shamed, 
and  eventually  overcame,  even  the  innate  and  experienced 
obstinacy  of  the  mule. 

There,  and  in  the  famine  districts,  and  on  other  occasions, 
I  have  seen  something  of  the  British  officer.  And  some  of 
them  have  known  me  not  only  in  famine  times,  for  as  a 
Commandant  of  Volunteers  I  have  had,  in  my  day,  many 
adjutants.  And  I  have  put  in  my  term  of  duty  with  a  regi- 
ment, and  have  attended  a  garrison  class,  so  I  can  speak 


THE    BRITISH    SUBALTERN  289 

from  some  knowledge  of  the  species.  In  the  heat  and  the 
dust,  in  the  rain  and  the  mud,  in  the  dark  and  the  cold  of 
the  seasons,  during  which  those  officers  laboured  at  famine 
work,  and  I  looked  on,  I  was  the  witness  of  the  most  exem- 
plary devotion  to  their  work,  of  patient  good-temper  and  ready 
resource,  all  of  the  very  highest  merit.  I  doubt  whether 
Job  ever  had  any  experience  with  a  mule,  always  a  past 
master  in  obstinacy,  but  unusually  troublesome  on  a  very  hot 
and  rainy  day.  The  way  the  beast  would  dispose  of  his  load, 
roll  on  the  ground,  and  by  some  subtle  process  of  communi- 
cation, based  on  example,  bid  the  rest  of  the  train  to  do  the 
same,  was  not  encouraging.  One  would  perhaps  find  a  fair- 
haired  young  subaltern  in  command, — one  who,  in  despair, 
had  allowed  his  young  beard  to  grow,  and  who  looked 
haggard  and  worn  with  the  incessant  worries  of  his  team. 
The  mule-man  and  a  sowar  of  the  cavalry  escort  have  become 
tired  of  the  performance,  and  but  for  the  young  officer, 
supported  by  my  presence  on  inspection,  they  would  try  and 
educate  that  mule  as  to  the  way  in  which  he  should  go  by 
lighting  a  fire  under  his  belly,  taking  care  first  to  remove  the 
Government  property  in  the  shape  of  the  saddle.  But  watch 
that  young  man's  patience  with  that  mule  which  he  cannot 
love,  and  see  how,  eventually,  the  beast  is  persuaded  to 
behave  himself  as  should  a  mule  holding  a  responsible  post 
under  Government  in  the  train  commanded  by  our  young 
friend,  Lieutenant  A.  of  the  Pomponettes.  But  how,  if  you 
have  ever  seen  the  British  subaltern  on  his  shikar  trip,  can 
you  possibly  be  astounded  at  any  outturn,  however  great,  of 
his  patience  and  self-denial  when  he  has  an  object  in  view  ? 
He  is  in  nearly  a  treeless  desert  a  couple  of  hundred  miles 
away  from  any  European  habitation.  He  has  little  food,  and 
has  quite  run  out  of  liquor.  His  camp  comforts  are  of  the 
most  primitive  description.  He  has  had  a  touch  of  fever,  and 
is  weak  and  rather  weary.  Yet  nothing  will  persuade  him 
from  breaking  his  shins,  and  risking  the  breaking  of  his  neck, 
after  the  quarry  his  shikari  says  is  on  the  well-scarped  ridge 
beyond.     When  this  patience  and  pertinacity  are  extended  to 

T 


2gO  THE    FAMINE 

anything  else  in  which  he  has  an  interest,  how  can  you  doubt 
his  ultimate  success  ?  Ever  and  anon  it  is  the  fashion  to 
decry  the  British  subaltern.  But,  fortunately,  the  men  he 
commands  and  some  others  know  him  as  he  really  is,  and 
have  their  own  opinion  of  him. 

I  would  here  introduce  a  subaltern  whom  I  met  years  ago, 
and  who  has  since  developed  into  a  very  distinguished  and 
prominent  General  Officer. 

India  being  the  training-ground  of  British  and  Native 
armies,  there  is  hardly  an  officer  of  distinction  who  has  not 
served  in  that  country ;  and  as,  during  a  great  part  of  the  last 
half  of  the  century,  I  was  constantly  moving  about  India, 
and  was  much  interested  in  military  matters,  I  had  the 
opportunity  of  meeting  many  of  the  leading  soldiers  of  the 
day.  My  acquaintance  with  General  Sir  Ian  Hamilton  came 
about  at  Allahabad  in  a  strange  manner  in  the  early  Seventies 
very  soon  after  he  had  got  his  first  uniform.  We  were  then 
living,  as  related,  in  cantonments,  in  what  was  called  the 
General's  House,  a  large  double-storied  building  which  no 
General  could  ever  be  induced  to  furnish  and  occupy.  One 
hot-weather  evening  we  had  just  sat  down  to  dinner  when  a 
piece  of  paper  with  a  name  written  in  pencil  was  brought  in 
to  me,  and  I  was  told  that  a  European  required  to  see  me 
immediately.  I  found  awaiting  me  in  the  study  a  very  dusty, 
tired,  good-looking  young  man,  who  told  me  his  name  was 
Hamilton;  that  he  had  just  landed  in  the  country,  and  was 
on  his  way  to  join  his  regiment,  the  Gordon  Highlanders,  as 
junior  Ensign,  at  far  Peshawur.  He  had  lost,  or  been  robbed 
of,  all  his  belongings,  and  found  himself  stranded  in  Allaha- 
bad. All  the  offices  were  closed,  and  after  wandering  for 
long  in  the  heat,  he  had  come  to  our  gate,  where,  according 
to  cantonment  rule,  the  name  of  the  occupant  was  displayed 
on  a  board  on  the  pillar.  He  had  known  several  Rivett- 
Carnacs  at  Harrow,  through  which  a  constant  stream  of 
youths  bearing  that  name  flowed  during  a  series  of  years,  and 
he  had,  in  despair,  invaded  the  house  in  the  hope  of  finding 
some  one  to  befriend  him.    I  made  him  come  in  to  dinner,  as 


GENERAL    SIR    IAN    HAMILTON  291 

soon  as  he  had  got  rid  of  some  of  the  dust,  and  later  sent 
him  off  full  of  gratitude  and  a  sufficiency  of  rupees  to  land 
him  comfortably  at  Peshawur.  A  week  later,  I  received  back 
my  loan,  together  with  a  most  grateful  letter  from  the  young 
officer,  who,  having  since  passed  through  all  the  grades  of  the 
service  with  ever- increasing  distinction,  is  now  the  well- 
known  General,  Sir  Ian  Hamilton,  lately  Commanding-in- 
Chief  in  the  Southern  District,  and  now  Adjutant-General 
of  the  Forces.  Unlike  some  others  I  have  known,  Sir  Ian 
Hamilton  is  not  inclined  to  ignore  a  service,  however  small, 
rendered  to  him  in  his  young  days,  and  on  more  than  one 
occasion  lately  he  has  generously  and  promptly  assisted  me 
in  matters  where  his  aid  was  most  valuable.  He  laughingly 
told  me  he  had  often  related  to  an  interested  audience  the 
story  of  his  first  appearance  at  Allahabad,  and  that  he 
generally  found  some  difference  of  opinion  as  to  which  was 
most  to  be  admired — his  impudence,  or  my  childlike  confi- 
dence in  a  dust-begrimed,  impecunious,  Indian  hot-weather 
visitor  ! 

I  would  now  introduce  some  of  the  Native  staff  who  worked 
with  us  in  the  Famine  Office,  among  a  crowd  of  British 
officers,  mostly  young,  who  might  not  be  expected  to  appre- 
ciate the  Babu. 

My  personal  clerk  was  poor  cheery  little  Romany  Babu, 
who  now,  alas !  has  joined  the  majority, — the  Bengali  Babu, 
the  despised  native  clerk  (as  popularly  represented),  he  whom 
all  European  officers,  military  and  civil,  are  supposed  to  de- 
test, and  to  lose  no  opportunity  of  snubbing  and  humiliating. 
And  it  is  said  they  treat  him  "  like  a  dog."  But  hardly 
though,  for  the  dog  has  mostly  a  good  time  of  it  in  India 
with  his  European  master,  especially  with  the  subaltern. 
But  rather  the  Babu  is  supposed  to  be  treated  as  would  be 
a  cockroach,  had  the  European  in  India  much  daily  inter- 
course with  creatures  of  this  species.  Romany,  notwith- 
standing some  little  weaknesses,  was  one  of  the  best  of 
men,  beloved  by  Natives  and  Europeans  alike.  So  despised 
was  he  and  another,  "  grand  old  Gugun,"  also  of  the  Babu 


2Q2  THE    FAMINE 

persuasion,  that  soldiers  and  civilians  alike  who  had  served 
with  me  in  India  never  lost  an  opportunity  later,  when  they 
passed  near  me,  of  slipping  off  to  shake  these  two  by  the 
hand  and  to  have  a  cheery  word  with  them.  A  goodly  lot  of 
soldier-officers  were  they — hussars,  plungers,  gunners,  infantry 
of  many  regiments,  and  of  the  Indian  army  in  its  many 
branches,  and  civil  servants  who  were  with  me  in  the  famine, 
employed  in  my  office,  or  in  charge  of  the  train  of  carts,  or 
teams  of  pony-  and  mule-carriage,  busy  in  throwing  grain 
into  the  distressed  districts.  They  one  and  all  had  to  do 
with  cheery  little  Romany  and  the  grand  Gugun,  and  one 
and  all  were  on  the  best  of  terms  with  their  Hindu  friends  of 
the  Famine  Office.  Many  of  these  good  soldiers  have,  with 
poor  little  Romany,  joined  the  majority,  claimed  in  Afghan 
sangars  or  African  kopjes.  But  some  remain,  and  are  now 
Generals  and  the  like.  And  when  we  occasionally  meet  and 
talk  over  old  days,  the  much -decorated  warrior  invariably 
asks  me,  "And  little  Romany  and  the  grand  Gugun?" 

Gugun,  I  am  glad  to  say,  yet  lives,  a  "  Rai-  Bahadur," 
and  as  fine-looking  is  he  as  the  title  of  honour  received  by 
him  from  the  Government  on  my  recommendation.  He  had 
great  advantages  over  others,  both  in  fine  physique  and  good 
birth.  There  could  be  nothing  mean  about  one  so  hand- 
somely endowed  by  nature,  and  Bengali  Babu  or  what-not, 
he  was  likely  to  be  able  to  hold  his  own  wherever  being  a 
man  counted  for  something.  The  last  time  I  saw  him  was 
when  we  were  both  at  the  Abbey,  at  His  Majesty's  Coronation, 
I  as  an  Aide-de-Camp  to  the  King,  he  accompanying  a  kins- 
man, an  Indian  Maharajah  of  high  degree,  who  had  been 
invited  to  come  to  Europe  for  the  ceremony.  He  looked 
what  he  is,  a  splendid  specimen  of  an  Indian  gentleman. 
But  there  are  Babus  and  Babus.  Perhaps,  too,  the  Babu 
may  say  in  his  experience,  "  Yes,  your  Honour,  there  are 
also  Sahibs  and  Sahibs." 

The  transport  trains  with  their  European  officers  in  com- 
mand, and  the  sepoys  and  sowars  of  the  Native  army  who 
assisted,  together  with  the  Indian  gentleman  who  worked  in 


OUR    LOCAL    CHAPLAIN  293 

my  office,  have  been  noticed,  as  also  the  officers  on  my  staff 
at  headquarters.  There  was  yet  another  class  of  employe  that 
must  not  be  overlooked — the  Europeans  temporarily  engaged 
in  purchasing,  packing,  and  despatching  the  grain,  and  in  a 
variety  of  other  duties  in  connection  with  the  operations  of 
the  famine. 

Unfortunately,  at  all  large  stations  like  Allahabad  are  to  be 
found  a  considerable  number  of  Europeans, — "  poor  whites  " 
or  "loafers,"  unlucky  Europeans  out  of  work,  who  are 
generally  glad  to  take  up  any  temporary  job  that  may  come 
in  their  way. 

We  employed  temporarily  a  considerable  number  of  men  of 
this  class,  though  not  a  tithe  of  those  who  applied  for  em- 
ployment ;  and  in  selecting  the  candidates  I  often  received  the 
assistance  of  our  neighbour,  the  clergyman,  who  did  excellent 
work  among  the  poor  at  our  end  of  the  station.  For,  as 
already  explained,  my  headquarters  were  in  the  "  General's 
House"  in  cantonments, — that  is,  far  from  the  Civil  Station, 
and  near  the  railway  lines,  where  the  poorer  part  of  the 
European  population  was  to  be  found.  Here  there  was  a 
small  chapel -of- ease  in  a  shanty.  This  little  church  was 
attended  chiefly  by  the  railway  people.  As  it  was  near  our 
house,  and  the  station  church,  where  all  the  fashionables  went, 
was  distant,  my  wife  and  I  generally  attended  the  chapel. 
The  clergyman  in  charge  had  a  history.  He  came  from  one 
of  the  oldest  of  the  great  families  of  the  Midlands.  I  think 
he  had  been  originally  in  our  Church.  But  I  know  that  at 
one  time  he  was  a  Roman  Catholic  priest  employed  in  China. 
He  left  that  Church,  was  reordained,  and  when  we  first  knew 
him  was  employed  by  the  Additional  Clergy  Society  and  in 
charge  of  the  little  chapel  mentioned.  He  did  admirable 
service  among  all  classes,  and  his  work  was  specially  admir- 
able during  a  severe  outbreak  of  cholera  that  occurred  about 

this  time.     Mr  M used  to  dine  with  us  quietly  on  Sunday 

evenings,  when  we  had  a  small  party  of  friends — men  from 
the  mess  or  the  club,  who  were  glad  to  get  away  from  those 
institutions  on  Sundays.     Our  clerical  friend  had  bad  health 


2g4  THE    FAMINE 

and  a  very  small  stipend,  and  to  him  it  would  be  an  enormous 
advantage  to  get  on  to  the  Government  establishment  of 
Chaplains,  by  which  pension,  sick-leave  on  half-pay,  and  an 
increased  salary  would  be  secured.  So,  having  a  good  friend 
in  the  Duke  of  Argyll,  who  was  still  Secretary  of  State  for 

India,  I  wrote  him,  detailing  the  good  work  Mr  M had 

done  at  the  cholera  time  and  later,  and  begging  that  he 
might  be  appointed  a  chaplain  on  the  Establishment.     The 

answer   came  without    delay  that    Mr    M had,    on    my 

recommendation,  been  appointed  a  Chaplain  in  Bengal. 

My  friend  was  delighted.  But  not  so  the  Bishop.  And 
I  saw  that  that  dignitary  had  grounds  for  disapproval  of 
a  chaplain  being  appointed  over  his  head  and  without  any 
reference  to  that  ecclesiastic.  The  Bishop  necessarily  must 
be  the  best  judge  of  the  deserving  men  in  his  diocese.  And 
there  were  possibly  several  candidates  on  the  Bishop's  books 
whose  claims,  in  his  opinion,  were  superior  to  those  of  my 
nominee.  All  this  I  realised  afterwards,  though  I  had  not 
bethought  myself  of  it  at  the  time.      So  the  Bishop  sent 

home  a  protest.     Mr  M was,  among  other  things,  over 

the  age  limit.  So  for  a  time  the  good  man  was  anxious 
about  his  fate.  But  I  knew  the  Duke  of  Argyll,  and  was 
pretty  certain  he  would  not  go  back  from  what  he  had 
promised  me.     So  in  course  of  time  came  back  a  very  civil 

despatch,  saying  that  on  the  of 1  His  Grace  had 

been  pleased  to  appoint  Mr  M a  chaplain.  And  a  chap- 
lain  Mr  M remained  until   he  died,  a  year  and  a  half 

later.  It  was  to  him  as  chaplain  that  I  went  for  advice  re- 
garding the  candidates  who  presented  themselves  in  great 
numbers  at  the  Famine  Office  praying  for  employment. 

One  morning  my  clerical  friend  called  and  asked  my  aid  for  a 
young  man  in  whom  he  said  he  had  a  great  interest.  Among 
other  accomplishments,  the  candidate  had  an  excellent  tenor 
voice,  and  the  chaplain  wanted  him  to  manage  the  choir.  So 
a  billet  for  the  candidate  was  a  necessity.  I  learnt  that  he 
knew  all  about  me — my  father,  as  has  been  stated,  being  an 
Admiral.     This  applicant  said  his  father  was  the  head  of  a 


A    BAD    LOT  2g5 

Naval  College  of  which  my  father  was  one  of  the  Governors. 
He  was  a  gentlemanly,  good-looking,  well-spoken  specimen. 
His  story  was  that  he  had  come  up  from  Australia,  hoping 
to  find  Government  employment,  that  he  had  run  through 
his  funds,  and  would  be  glad  of  any  temporary  work.  At 
the  time  there  was  a  vacancy  in  the  office,  and  so  this  Mr 

B was  taken  on.     He  behaved  quite  satisfactorily,  and 

had  charge  of  the  register  of  military  officers  employed,  their 
comings  and  goings,  transfers,  pay,  &c.  After  having  been 
with    us   three   months,    and   having    duly   reorganised    the 

reverend  gentleman's  choir,  Mr  B suddenly  disappeared. 

The  chaplain  came  to  tell  me  that  he  was  aware  of  the 
reason  of  the  disappearance,  approved  of  the  step,  but  could 
not  for  the  present  reveal  the  facts.  A  week  afterwards  I 
received  a  letter  from  my  younger  brother,  then  a  Major  in 
the  nth  (Prince  Consort's  Own)  Hussars  at  Umballa.     "A 

nice  fellow  you  are,"  wrote  he.     "  B ,  a  deserter  from  the 

regiment,  gave  himself  up  last  week,  and  has  just  been  tried 
by  court-martial.  It  appears  that  for  months  past  you  have 
been  harbouring  in  your  office  this  deserter  from  our  ranks  ! " 
The  man  kept  the  officers'  register,  and  saw  the  order 
appointing  Captain  Apperley  of  the  regiment,  and  learnt 
from  a  telegram  that  passed  through  his  hands  that  Apperley 
would  report  himself  at  my  office  the  next  day.  Now,  un- 
fortunately, this  was  the  captain  of  the  deserter's  troop.  So 
he  thought  he  had  better  go  off  at  once  and  give  himself  up 
at  Umballa.  He  received  a  light  sentence,  but  was  again 
tried  some  months  later  on  a  much  more  serious  charge — the 
attempted  murder  of  the  sergeant  of  his  troop,  whom  he  shot, 
wounding  him  in  the  shoulder.  He  was  acquitted,  I  could 
never  make  out  how.  General  Sir  Arthur  Lyttelton- 
Annesley,  who  commanded  the  regiment  at  the  time,  was 
with  me  recently,  whilst  I  was  writing  the  above  incident. 
Nor  was  he  less  astonished  at  the  fellow's  fortunate  escape. 

B ,   the  offender,  though  of  well-known  family,  was  an 

utter  bad  lot.  Later  he  bought  his  discharge,  and  tried  to 
pass  off  and  get  credit  as  Lord  Marcus  Beresford.     I  think 


2g6  THE    FAMINE 

for  this  he  got  a  term  of  imprisonment.  But  I  read  of  him 
again  some  years  later.  He  was  brought  up  in  the  police 
court  for  annoying  his  sister,  a  well  -  known  member  of 
society.  I  think  he  went  again  to  jail.  I  had  had  quite 
enough  of  him,  and  have  not  attempted  to  follow  his 
subsequent  career. 

Another  man,  employed  under  similar  terms  on  famine 
work,  was  of  a  very  different  stamp.  One  morning  my 
Secretary,  Major  Affleck  -  Graves,  announced  through  the 
speaking-tube  that  he  wished  me  to  see  a  candidate  for 
employment.  I  protested :  we  had  our  list  full.  But  my 
man  was  insistent,  saying  he  thought  he  had  a  really 
promising  article.  So  the  two  came  up  to  my  room. 
The  candidate  was  a  powerful,  worn-looking  man  of  about 
forty -five,  with  a  very  keen  eye  and  intelligent  face.  He 
was  deaf.  After  asking  twice,  "What  are  you?" — Affleck- 
Graves  having  shouted  the  question  into  his  ear — he  looked 
me  full  in  the  face  and  replied,  "  I  am  a  confirmed  drunkard." 
The  answer  certainly  did  not  fail  either  in  frankness  or 
directness,  and  rather  prepossessed  me  in  the  poor  fellow's 
favour.  Then  my  Secretary  told  me  the  man's  sad  story, 
which  he  had  got  from  him.  He  had  been  a  confirmed 
drunkard  for  years,  and  his  hearing  had  become  affected. 
He  was  determined  to  have  another  shot  at  saving  himself 
from  the  habit.  He  had  been  employed  for  two  years  in 
firing  the  express  engine  between  Allahabad  and  Cawnpore — 
firing  the  engine  in  this  awful  heat,  when  a  bed  under  a 
punkah  even  was  almost  unbearable !  Under  such  con- 
ditions he  had  small  chance  of  freeing  himself  from  the 
habit.  But  he  thought  if  he  could  get  some  quiet  work 
he  might  pull  himself  together.  "  And  by  the  powers,"  had 
said  Affleck-Graves,  "  I'll  help  you,  my  man !  "  I  consented 
to  give  him  a  chance.  Then  his  story  was  unfolded  by  de- 
grees. He  was  the  only  son  of  an  old  officer,  then  living,  who 
as  a  boy  had  been  at  Waterloo,  and  who  was  a  celebrated 
artist,  an  honorary  Royal  Academician.  Our  man  had 
been  at  Rugby  in  the  eleven,  and  he  was  splendidly  made, 


ANOTHER   SORT  297 

all  muscle,  firing  an  engine  in  the  hot -weather  being  un- 
favourable to  adipose  matter.  He  had  first  been  an  officer 
in  the  Queen's  Army,  but  had  had  to  leave  for  drink. 
His  father  had  had  influence  sufficient  to  procure  for  him 
then  a  commission  in  the  Company's  Army.  During  the 
so-called  "White  Mutiny"  he  had  broken  his  arrest,  and 
had  been  cashiered.  We  afterwards  ascertained  that  his 
story  was  perfectly  true,  and  that,  beyond  the  drink,  there 
was  nothing  disgraceful  in  his  record.  He  had  married, 
and  his  wife  had  separated  from  him  —  his  drunkenness 
being  insupportable.  He  was  hideously  earnest  in  his  prayer 
to  be  helped.  He  said  to  me  and  to  others,  "  If  I  can  only 
get  past  the  next  new  moon,  I  shall  be  all  right."  He  was 
posted  as  an  overseer  to  load  grain  at  an  out-station. 

All  went  well  at  first.  Then  came  the  new  moon.  And 
Affleck-Graves  came  to  me  with  a  disappointed  face.  "  Our 
man  has  disappeared."  But  he  had  worked  splendidly,  had 
left  his  accounts  and  all  in  perfect  order,  with  a  note  to 
say,  "  The  new  moon."  I  learnt  afterwards,  on  the  highest 
medical  authority,  that,  like  fever  and  other  well-known 
ailments,  such  attacks  are  liable  to  come  back  periodically, 
and  that  they  are  practically  a  form  of  brain  disease.  And 
so  it  certainly  was  with  this  poor  fellow.  "  No,"  added  my 
Secretary,  "  I  do  not  intend  to  give  him  up."  And  the 
good  fellow  sought  out  his  man,  found  him  huddled  up  in 
a  native  serai  recovering  from  his  attack  of  drink — miser- 
able, weak,  sick,  ashamed.  He  was  brought  up  to  the 
house,  washed,  fed,  and  clothed,  and  in  a  week  was  quite 
himself  again — a  very  careful,  useful  clerk.  After  that  new 
moon  we  thought  we  would  watch  the  phases  from  near 
by,  and  from  that  day  forth  he  lived  for  years  in  my 
house.  During  the  next  new  moon  the  poor  chap  was 
seldom  left  to  himself  for  a  minute.  Affleck- Graves  or 
some  one  had  him  in  hand  continuously.  And  the  period 
was  passed  through    in   triumph  ;    and  so  a  second   and   a 

third  moon.     So  amid  infinite  care,  L ,  as  I  shall  call 

him,   improved   daily.       He   was    invaluable    in    the    office, 


20.3  THE    FAMINE 

hardworking  and  careful  to  a  degree,  could  turn  his 
hand  to  anything,  and  was  always  cheery  and  willing.  I 
did  my  best  for  him  one  way  and  another,  and  he  became 
very  attached  to  me.  He  was  exceptionally  powerful,  and 
this  one  day  caused  a  slight  trouble  below  in  the  office. 

A  young  officer,   not    being   pleased  with  some  order   he 
had   received,    made   some   disparaging   remarks   about  me, 

which,    being   repeated   to    L ,    he   went    for   the   young 

man ;  and  forgetting  that  the  offender  was  a  commissioned 
officer,  whilst  he,  poor  fellow,  was  now  only  a  clerk,  he 
seized  the  youngster  by  the  scruff  of  the  neck  and  ejected 
him  into  a  rain  -  puddle  outside.  The  young  man  did  not 
care  to  make  a  fuss  about  the  matter  and  reveal  the  cause, 

so  passed  over  the  offence.     By  degrees  L cast  off  his 

fireman  shell  and  became  more  after  the  manner  of  what 
he  had  been  in  former  days.  At  first,  smartened  up,  he 
came  in  to  lunch ;  then  much  later  we  got  him  into  dress- 
clothes,  and  he  appeared  at  dinner ;  and  he  was  a  great 
favourite,  whether  in  the  cricket -field,  or  shoving  ponies 
into  waggons,  or  in  the  office.  There  was  always  a  double 
guard  on  at  new  moon  time,  and  to  our  delight  he  kept 
perfectly  steady.  In  the  meantime  I  had  been  in  com- 
munication with  his  father  at  home  —  a  well-known  man, 
very  old,  rich,  a  member  of  the  Royal  Yacht  Squadron, 
and  this  his  only  son.  The  father  had  had  terrible  ex- 
periences— would  not  believe  in  any  real  cure ;  but,  thank- 
ing me,  said  that  if  I  could  succeed  in  bringing  the  son 
round,  he  would  put  him  back  in  his  will  to  be  heir  to 
his  considerable  landed  estate.  When  the  famine  work 
was  over,  my  man  had  done  so  well  and  proved  himself 
so  invaluable  that  I  took  him  with  me  to  Ghazipore  and 
gave  him  an  appointment  in  my  new  office.  He  still  lived 
in  the  house,  and  was  very  useful  under  my  Private 
Secretary  in  a  variety  of  work.  Affleck-Graves,  alas !  had 
left  after  the  famine.  But  there  were  others  who  kept 
a  look-out  for  the  new  moon. 

L was  devoted  to  horses,  and  there  was  nothing  con- 


THE    NEW    MOON  299 

nected  with  a  stable  that  he  could  not  manage  successfully. 
He  was  a  splendid  horseman,  and  all  animals  were  devoted 
to  him,  so  strong  and  patient  was  his  manner  with  them. 
His  special  favourite  in  the  stable  was  a  big  Cape  horse  of 
my  wife's,  and  the  horse  was  equally  attached  to  him.  We 
had  been  a  year  and  a  half  at  Ghazipore,  and  all  had  gone 

well,  when,  to  my  disappointment  and  distress,  L broke 

out  again  suddenly.  I  was  half  afraid  there  was  harm  brew- 
ing, and  had  shown  him  just  before  a  letter  from  his  father 
saying  he  would  let  him  have  his  old  place,  if  really  cured ; 
but  that  if  he  could  not  be  got  round,  then  he  would  receive 
nothing.  With  this  all  before  his  eyes,  even,  he  could  not, 
poor  wretch,  hold  himself;  and  for  the  next  few  days  his 
conduct  was  such  a  scandal  that  I  was  forced  to  send  him 
off  to  Calcutta,  where  I  got  him  a  place  under  a  stevedore. 

For  six  months  all  went  well.  Then  the  usual  break-out ; 
so  the  firm  wrote  me,  and  they  said  they  had  no  idea  of 
what   had  become  of  him.     A  week  later,  on  a  day  of  the 

most  terrible  heat,  word  was  brought  me  that  "  L sahib  " 

was  lying  dying  in  the  stable  beside  the  old  Cape  horse. 
And  there  I  found  him,  almost  a  skeleton,  and  burning  with 
high  fever.  The  doctor  thought  he  could  not  live.  But 
we  took  great  care  of  him  in  the  house,  for  all  Europeans 
and  Natives  liked  him,  and  in  a  week's  time  he  was  able 
to  crawl  about  and  tell  us  his  story.  It  had  been  the  most 
hideous  of  the  hottest  weeks,  just  before  the  rains  brought 
relief.  He  was  penniless,  and  had  started  to  walk  to  us 
from  Calcutta  —  over  five  hundred  miles.  Then  an  old 
friend,  an  engine  -  driver,  had  given  him  a  lift  on  the 
engine.  He  had  had  at  the  end  a  fifteen  -  mile  walk  in 
the  fierce  sun,  had  eaten  nothing,  drunk  much ;  and  the 
last  he  remembered  was  arriving  at  the  stable,  the  horse 
whinnying,  and  then,  he  supposed,  he  must  have  fainted. 

Well,  he  was  taken  back  again,  and  for  years  worked 
satisfactorily.      In  the   meantime  the  father  died.      On  my 

advice  he  left  the  son  an  annuity  only,  as  L was  not 

a  man  to  entrust  with  a  fortune.      He  also  came  in  to  a 


300  THE    FAMINE 

couple  of  thousand  pounds  from  his  mother.  With  this 
he  bought  a  tea  estate  in  Kumaon.  But  though  he  kept 
steady  he  was  unlucky,  had  bad  seasons,  and  soon  had 
only  his  annuity  to  depend  upon.  I  was  in  constant  com- 
munication with  him,  and  knew  he  was  respectable  and 
steady.  Eventually  I  helped  to  establish  him  at  a  milk 
farm  near  Naini-Tal,  and  every  summer  he  was  constantly 
with  us.  He  had  become  stone-deaf,  but  was  as  keen  and 
active  as  ever,  was  perfectly  steady  and  much  respected, 
and  had  a  fairly  good  business  at  Naini-Tal.  When  we 
left  India  in  1894  he  had  established  a  satisfactory  pos- 
ition, and  passed  his  time  pleasantly  —  making  regular 
shooting- trips  in  the  off-season.  That  he  kept  steady  I 
knew  from  his  handwriting,  and  also  from  the  good  reports 
I  had  of  him  from  critical  neighbours.  Some  years  pre- 
viously, returning  from  home  one  winter,  I  heard  that  his 
wife  had  died  abroad.  She  had  long  been  separated  from 
him,  and  had  kept  her  whereabouts  from  being  known. 
It  then  appeared  that,  for  many  years,  she  had  been  the 
valued  English  governess  of  the  young  Crown  Prince  of 
Italy.  She  was  held  in  the  highest  esteem  by  all  about  the 
Palace,  whilst  her  young  pupil  was  devoted  to  her.  On  her 
death  all  her  effects,  including  some  valuable  presents  from 
the  royal   family,   had  been   sent  to   Naini-Tal;    and   there 

L had  sold  them   all  off  by  auction,   not  appreciating 

their  value.     I  regretted  I  had  not  been  present  to  advise. 

On  our  last  interview,  when  L ,  now  an  old  man,  came 

to  say  good-bye  to  us  at  Naini-Tal,  before  I  retired  from  the 
service,  I  wrote  on  a  piece  of  paper — for  he  was  too  deaf 
now  to  hear  what  was  said  — "  Keep  straight,  old  fellow." 
He  said,  "  I  promise,  and  I'll  write  it  here."  This  he  did. 
For  years  afterwards,  when  in  London  or  at  Wildeck,  I 
would  receive,   on   the  anniversary   of  the  day,  this  slip  of 

paper,  with  a  note  from  L ,  "  Thank  God,  I  have  been 

able  to  keep  my  promise."  And  so  my  poor  old  friend — Rugby 
boy,  soldier  officer,  railway  fireman,  famine  clerk,  planter — 
lived   on  his  life,   always  a   keen   sportsman   and  a  cheery, 


ULTIMATE    TRIUMPH  3OI 

handy  neighbour.  He  wrote  periodically  to  my  wife  and 
myself,  and  his  handwriting  was  always  steady.  We  kept 
him  posted  in  all  we  did,  sent  him  Jubilee  literature,  or 
anything  on  at  the  time.  He  always  remained  grateful 
and  devoted  to  me,  and  to  the  end  of  his  life  would  have 
treated  any  enemy  of  mine  even  as  he  did  the  subaltern 
that  day  in  the  famine  office.  He  wrote  one  January  in 
great  spirits.  Notwithstanding  his  seventy -five  years,  he 
had  shot  a  big  tiger  the  week  before.  He  was  perfectly 
steady.  We  never  heard  from  him  again.  A  month  later 
a  friendly  neighbour  of  his  wrote  saying  how  he  had  died 
quite  peacefully  and  happily. 

He  had  often  spoken  gratefully  of  having  been  saved  by 
Affleck-Graves  from  the  killing  work  of  fireman  on  the  ex- 
press engine  during  the  hot-weather,  and  had  been  thankful 
for  the  happy  time  he  had  had  during  his  last  years,  with 
no  cares  and  plenty  of  sport  in  a  glorious  climate  among 
those  beautiful  Kumaon  mountains.  Poor  old  chap  !  he 
had  had  a  chequered  life.  But  he  was  honest  and  loyal 
to  the  core  and  to  the  last.  Among  the  very  pleasantest 
of  my  memories  is  the  knowledge  that,  under  Providence, 
I  had  in  my  time  the  great  happiness  of  assisting  to  save 
one  poor  fellow  from  utter  misery  and  ruin.  It  was  a 
real  mercy  that  he  was  saved.  And  this  was  only  com- 
passed by  infinite  attention  and  patience  by  other  workers 
than  myself.  After  the  trouble  we  had  more  than  once, 
my  wife,  with  a  woman's  natural  disgust  for  a  drunken 
man,  would  have  been  amply  justified  in  refusing  to  allow 
him  to  return  to  the  house.  But,  with  the  most  exem- 
plary patience  and  devotion,  she  assisted  us  all  in  the 
work  of  mercy,  and  was  rewarded  by  seeing  him  remain 
quite  steady  and  live  his  last  years  in  comfort  and  con- 
tentment.     The    father's    large    property    went   all   to   his 

sister.     L had  sufficient.     Had  he  received  much  more, 

I  might  not  have  been  able  to  write  so  satisfactory  an 
account  of  the  result  of  our  efforts  to  pull  him  through 
his  troubles.     The  father  at  one  time  overwhelmed  me  with 


302  THE    FAMINE 

his  gratitude.  He  promised  to  leave  me  one  of  his 
pictures.  I  should  have  valued  it  as  his  appreciation  of 
some  interest  taken  in  one  of  his  blood.  But  I  fear  he 
forgot  his  promise,  for  I  never  received  the  picture. 

Having  had  some  experience,  not  only  in  this  but  in 
several  other  cases,  I  am  inclined  to  support  the  view  that, 
unless  the  patient  is  caught  young,  it  is  almost  a  hopeless 

task  to  cure  the  drink-habit  after  long  indulgence.     L 's 

case  was  the  exception  that  proves  the  rule.  And  he  had 
working  for  him  a  whole  staff  of  people  connected  with  my 
office,  who,  liking  him  personally,  lavished  upon  him  for 
years  a  care  and  attention  that  few  could  hope  for.  With 
him  it  had  become  a  disease  of  the  brain,  and  he  dreaded 
its  return,  and  fought  against  it  as  does  a  man  subject  to 
other  hideous  fits.  I  satisfied  myself,  in  studying  many  other 
cases,  that  inferior  food,  affecting  the  digestion  and  the 
appetite,  is  responsible  largely  for  drunkenness.  The  human 
machine  not  being  properly  stoked  up  with  good  fuel,  in 
the  shape  of  food,  takes  to  drink  to  supply  the  force  required. 
By  degrees  the  drink  burns  out  the  stomach  as  petroleum 
would  a  boiler.  The  stomach  will  not  take  food,  and  the 
poor  wretch  depends  almost  entirely  on  drink.  His  only 
chance  then  is  some  devoted  friend,  who  by  feeding  him 
with  strengthening  food  and  reducing  the  stimulant  by  de- 
grees, will  in  time  get  the  stomach  to  assimilate  the  food, 
and  again  stoke  up  and  set  the  machinery  agoing.  In  fact, 
I  firmly  believe  that  much  of  the  liquor  -  drinking  among 
our  lower  classes  is  debitable  to  the  ignorance  of  our  women 
in  cooking  and  in  food  economy.  "  Feed  the  beast  "  and 
there  would  be  less  necessity  for  recourse  to  the  bottle. 
But  the  subject  is  too  big  to  be  discussed  here.  And  there 
can  be  little  hope  of  improvement  until  the  whole  system 
of  the  cooking  arrangements  in  the  houses  of  the  poor  is 
reconsidered,  and  the  women  taught  to  cook  what  is  palatable 
and  nourishing,  and  until  they  are  provided  with  appliances 
with  which  to  cook,  of  a  better  class  than  small  grates  and 
the  frying-pan. 


THE    OPIUM    AGENCY  303 

By  the  end  of  1874  all  the  work  connected  with  famine 
operations  was  over,  and  the  big  double-storied  house  at 
Allahabad  and  the  grounds  surrounding  it  had  resumed  their 
wonted  calm.  I  had  had  one  or  two  experiences  of  persons 
and  things  in  the  meantime,  some  of  which  have  duly  been 
committed  to  what  I  may  call  lantern-slides,  and  will  be  ex- 
hibited later  if  time  permits.  If  official  reports,  Government 
resolutions,  and  such  things  were  to  be  believed,  our  Depart- 
ment during  the  famine  had  been  a  great  success,  and  to  us, 
in  part,  was  due  the  saving  of  many  lives  during  those  dis- 
tressful months.  We  all  received  the  thanks  of  the  Govern- 
ment, and  later  I  was  created  a  Companion  of  the  Order 
of  the  Indian  Empire,  partly  it  was  understood  for  these 
services,  partly  for  what  I  had  done  in  times  before. 

My  work  on  the  famine  finished,  it  was  evident  that  the 
Government  would  have  a  difficult  question  to  decide  in  what 
they  should  do  with  me,  as  I  could  hardly  be  allowed  to  go 
on,  so  to  speak,  eating  my  head  off  on  a  large  salary  in  an 
appointment  that  had  worked  itself  out. 

Fortunately  about  that  time,  the  Opium  Agency  in  the 
N.W.  Provinces  became  vacant, — a  very  coveted  appoint- 
ment, with  an  extensive  charge  and  a  high  salary.  And 
this  prize  was  awarded  to  me  in  recognition  of  my  work. 

In  March  1875  I  took  over  charge  of  the  Benares  Opium 
Agency  at  Ghazipore,  in  the  North-Western  Provinces,  now 
known  as  the  United  Provinces.  After  fifteen  years'  service, 
during  which  I  had  much  work  in  a  variety  of  appointments, 
and  in  a  manner  that  does  not  often  fall  to  the  lot  of  an 
Indian  civilian,  I  found  myself  in  a  comfortable  berth  gener- 
ally reserved  for  an  old  officer  at  the  close  of  his  career.  The 
belief  in  the  service  was  that  the  work  of  an  Opium  Agent 
was  of  the  lightest  description ;  and  although  it  could  not  be 
compared  with  that  imposed  upon  administrative  officers, 
such  as  Collectors  and  Commissioners,  it  was  not,  as  I  was 
in  due  course  to  discover,  such  an  easy  post  as  was  generally 
supposed.  Still,  compared  with  those  I  had  hitherto  held, 
the  billet  was  an  easy  and  comfortable  one, — "  Opium  cum 


304  THE    FAMINE 

dignitate,"  as  was  sometimes  said.  Here,  after  some  difficult 
voyages  and  occasional  bad  weather,  I  had  at  last  got  into 
harbour,  and  could,  if  I  wished,  take  a  good  long  rest  with 
ample  leisure  to  refit.  In  fact,  when,  just  before  my  retire- 
ment, one  of  the  Commissioners  of  Division,  who  wished 
to  succeed  me,  wrote  for  my  advice  as  to  his  applying  for 
the  appointment,  I  told  him,  after  warning  him  that  there 
was  little  scope  for  ability  such  as  was  to  be  found  in  the  ad- 
ministrative command  of  a  Commissioner,  that  yet  the  post 
offered  this  advantage,  that  here  a  man  towards  the  close 
of  his  service  might  make  for  himself  a  comfortable  and 
quiet  haven  for  his  later  years  in  India.  The  intelligent 
native  clerk,  not  finding  my  writing  very  distinct,  and  hav- 
ing his  own  thoughts  perhaps  running  on  what  he  would 
like  to  arrange  for  himself  under  similar  circumstances, 
copied  my  words  of  advice  thus  :  "  Here  a  man  towards 
the  close  of  his  service  might  make  for  himself  a  comfort- 
able and  quiet  Harem  for  his  later  years  in  India." 

And  though  at  first  I  made  a  good  deal  of  work  for  myself, 
the  appointment  was  one  of  the  greatest  comfort,  and  allowed 
of  my  devoting  much  of  my  time  to  a  number  of  interesting 
subjects,  for  which  the  overworked  district  officials  have 
absolutely  no  leisure. 

To  most  of  my  readers  the  name  of  the  Indian  Opium 
Department  will  convey  no  information.  It  seems  necessary 
then  to  explain  that  the  Indian  Government  draw  from  opium 
a  revenue  of  about  four  millions  sterling.  As  to  the  merits 
of  this  source  of  revenue  it  is  not  my  intention  to  enlarge. 
A  Commission  was  sent  out  to  India  in  1893  to  examine  the 
whole  question,  and  in  their  report  will  be  found  all  the  in- 
formation that  the  most  exacting  inquirer  can  demand.  The 
chief  sources  of  supply  were,  and  still  are,  the  Behar  districts 
of  Bengal,  and  the  southern  and  eastern  districts  of  the 
North-Western,  now  termed  the  United  Provinces.  Under 
the  Act  pertaining  to  the  subject,  no  one  could  grow  the 
poppy  plant  without  a  licence  from  Government.  And  all 
the  produce  of  the  plant  so  grown  had  to  be  delivered  over 


THE    OPIUM    AGENCY  305 

to  the  Government  officials  in  the  poppy-growing  districts 
at  a  fixed  rate.  The  opium  so  collected  was  then  despatched 
to  the  Government  factories,  where  it  was  packed  and  thence 
sent  down  to  Calcutta.  These  chests  of  opium  were  there 
sold  by  auction,  and  the  difference  between  the  price  thus 
obtained  and  the  cost  of  the  drug,  and  of  the  establishment 
of  the  Opium  Department,  represented  the  opium  revenue. 
The  establishments  necessary  for  the  working  of  the  De- 
partment were  presided  over  by  two  so-called  Agents,  the 
one  of  whom  had  his  headquarters  at  Patna,  where  was 
a  factory,  the  other  at  Ghazipore,  where  the  second  factory 
was  situated.  The  operations  of  the  first  of  these  Agents 
were  confined  to  the  Behar  districts.  Those  of  mine,  called 
the  Benares  Agency,  extended  over  the  portion  of  the  North- 
Western  Provinces  above  mentioned.  Each  Agent  had  under 
him  a  considerable  European  and  Native  staff,  generally  a 
European  officer,  with  sometimes  a  European  assistant, 
in  each  of  the  districts  where  opium  was  cultivated.  This 
officer  had  to  select  the  lands  on  which  the  plant  was  to  be 
grown,  and  issue  to  each  cultivator  a  licence  in  approved 
form.  To  the  headquarters  of  this  officer  was  brought  the 
drug  when  collected,  and  by  him  it  was  weighed  and  pay- 
ment made  according  to  certain  rules  which  it  is  unnecessary 
here  to  detail.  It  was  then  sent  down  by  rail  or  boat  to 
Ghazipore.  The  opium  when  received  at  the  factory  was 
not  "  manufactured  "  in  the  true  acceptation  of  the  word, 
inasmuch  as  it  went  to  China  in  the  state  received  from  the 
districts — that  is,  without  any  addition  or  manipulation.  The 
processes  at  the  factory  were  confined  to  seeing  that  the  drug 
was  of  a  uniform  "  consistence  "  as  regards  the  moisture 
therein  contained,  and  to  making  it  into  balls,  like  large 
cannon-shot,  of  which  the  covering  was  formed  by  the  flower- 
petals  of  the  plant.  For  the  duties  of  granting  licences, 
inspecting  and  measuring  the  lands,  seeing  that  none  without 
licence  were  sown,  for  receiving,  weighing,  paying,  &c,  and 
for  despatching  the  drug  to  the  factory,  the  European  officer 
had   a   considerable   Native   staff,   and   some   two   or   three 

u 


306  THE    FAMINE 

Gomashtahs,  of  about  the  rank  of  Native  officers,  a  con- 
tingent of  Native  clerks,  and  a  large  number  of  men  em- 
ployed in  the  districts  to  supervise  cultivation,  prevent  illicit 
cultivation,  smuggling,  &c.  These  in  the  whole  Agency  num- 
bered several  hundreds.  In  the  Benares  Agency  the  European 
district  staff  was,  in  my  time,  about  sixty  strong.  This  was 
supplemented  during  the  busy  time  of  the  weighing  of  the 
drug  by  an  additional  twenty  or  so  young  fellows,  taken 
on  temporarily,  and  from  whom  were  chosen  later  assistants 
to  fill  permanent  vacancies.  At  Ghazipore,  besides  an  office- 
staff  of  secretaries  and  clerks,  the  Agent  had  a  superintendent 
of  the  factory,  a  medical  man,  generally  a  Surgeon- Major  in 
the  army,  and  a  dozen  or  so  employed  at  the  works,  two  of 
officer's  rank,  the  remainder  chosen  from  retired  army  ser- 
geants, and  so  forth.  It  will  be  seen,  then,  that  the  Agent 
had  a  considerable  staff  to  control,  and  that  what  with  this 
and  the  many  other  questions  connected  with  a  large  De- 
partment and  a  great  revenue,  his  hands  could  be  pretty  full. 
A  troublesome  duty  that  now  came  to  me  was  the  distribu- 
tion of  patronage,  which  many  may  suppose  to  be  a  source 
of  delight.  That  this  was  not  always  the  case  will  be  real- 
ised by  the  following  truthful  relation  of  my  experience  in 
this  respect. 

When  vacancies  occurred  among  the  European  Assistants 
the  appointments  were  made  by  me.  The  service  was  poor 
compared  with  that  of  many  of  the  more  favoured  Civil  De- 
partments of  the  Indian  Government,  but  still  it  had  no  small 
merit  in  the  eyes  of  fathers  of  limited  means  struggling  with 
the  education  of  several  sons  and  daughters.  Any  young  fel- 
low to  whom  an  appointment  was  given  could  in  those  days 
enter  the  Department  at  seventeen  years  of  age.  And  here 
was  the  great  point — no  examination  difficulty  had  to  be  faced 
on  entry,  there  being  no  educational  test  of  any  sort  until  the 
young  man  went  up  for  the  Departmental  Examinations  in  the 
course  of  his  service.  The  assistant  commenced  on  a  salary 
of  about,  as  reckoned  in  old  days,  £200  l  a-year, — not  much, 

1  These  figures,  alas !  represent  the  rupee  of  old  days,  the  two-shilling  rupee. 


PLEASURES  OF  PATRONAGE  307 

but  enough  with  economy  to  keep  a  boy  off  his  father's 
hands.  Promotion  was  slow,  and  prospects  were  not  good. 
Still  a  man  could  rise  eventually  to  a  salary  of  £1200  a-year, 
with  a  pension  on  retirement  of  £"500  a-year.  A  young  man 
so  started  was  provided  for,  in  a  way,  for  life,  and  there  were 
many  who  could  not  resist  the  temptation  of  thus  disposing 
of  a  son,  and  relieving  themselves  of  the  expense  and  anxiety 
of  further  education.  So  there  was  a  considerable  demand 
on  my  miserable  patronage,  and  having  fortunately  no  poor 
relations  to  provide  for,  I  did  my  best,  whilst  trying  to  secure 
a  good  class  of  youth  for  the  work,  to  assist  deserving  old 
officers  who  were  known  to  have  large  families  and  pro- 
portionate difficulties  to  struggle  with.  The  actors  in  the 
following  scenes  have  now  all  passed  off  the  stage,  and  this 
account  of  my  curious  experience  is  not  likely  to  harm  any 
one,  or  it  would  not  be  here  related. 

Among  our  many  acquaintances,  some  thirty -five  years 
ago,  was  an  old  Colonel  of  a  distinguished  family  which 
had  rendered  excellent  service  in  India,  and  a  lady,  his 
wife,  of  somewhat  decided  character,  who  was  a  religious 
landmark  in  the  district.  They  had  no  children,  but  the 
lady  had  a  considerable  number  of  poor  relations  whom 
she  administered  on  approved  sanctimonious  principles. 
"Soon  after  my  appointment  to  my  new  post,  she  attacked 
my  wife  and  myself  in  the  interests  of  a  nephew  for  whom 
she  desired  to  secure  an  appointment  in  the  Depart- 
ment. The  husband,  I  am  bound  in  justice  to  say,  dis- 
sembled, which  should  have  put  me  on  my  guard.  She 
appealed  to  me  by  relating  how  the  young  man  was  an 
orphan,  the  father — an  infantry  officer — having  been  killed 
many  years  before  on  the  frontier,  the  mother  having  died 
soon  afterwards,  and  the  children  having  had  to  struggle  for 
long  years  on  small  pensions.  I  invariably  made  a  rule  of 
personally  inspecting  candidates,  and  finding  out  more  or  less 
about  them  before  appointment.  In  this  case,  however,  there 
were  difficulties  ;  the  old  lady  was  very  insistent ;  and  the 
case  appearing  to  be  deserving,  I  weakly  departed  from  my 


308  THE    FAMINE 

rule.  I  found  out,  however,  that  the  young  man  had  two 
sisters,  and  that  the  whole  family  were  then  living  together 
in  a  distant  part  of  India.  The  circumstances  of  the  Depart- 
ment work  were  such  that  no  young  assistant  could  possibly 
move  about  in  camp  and  do  his  work  in  a  satisfactory  manner 
if  encumbered  with  a  wife  or  female  relations.  So  I  went 
to  the  old  lady  and  carefully  explained  the  position,  where- 
upon she  solemnly  assured  me  that  the  sisters  would  not 
accompany  the  young  man  or  join  him  afterwards,  and,  on 
these  conditions,  the  nomination  was  given.  In  due  course 
the  new  assistant  appeared  at  headquarters,  and  proved  to 
be  a  miserable  specimen,  both  physically  and  mentally. 
Still,  we  tried  to  make  the  best  of  him,  such  as  he  was, 
and  it  was  satisfactory  that  the  understanding  regarding 
his  women-kind  had  been  duly  observed. 

There  was  considerable  difficulty  at  Ghazipore  about  cheap 
house-accommodation  for  the  junior  officers,  and  most  of  the 
young  fellows  lived  together  in  chummeries  of  some  three  or 
four  together.  My  private  secretary,  however,  and  another 
assistant  who  had  been  some  years  in  the  Department,  and 
were,  comparatively  speaking,  well-off,  had  one  of  the  few 
cheap,  small  houses  in  the  place,  and  had  installed  themselves 
very  comfortably  in  their  pretty  little  abode.  They  were 
absent  from  home  all  day,  these  young  officers,  the  one  taking 
his  luncheon  with  me,  the  other  at  the  factory  where  his 
work  was.  One  afternoon,  after  he  had  left  office  for  the 
day,  my  secretary  came  to  me  in  a  great  state  of  mind  to 
say  that,  on  his  return  home,  he  had  found,  to  his  amaze- 
ment, his  servant  standing  out  in  the  garden  over  some 
trunks,  into  which  clothes  had  been  bundled,  and  announced 
that  he  and  the  other  man's  servant,  who  had  been  away 
for  the  day,  found  on  their  return  that  they  had  beenaturned 
out  of  the  small  house,  which  was  now  in  the  possession 
of  the  new  assistant  and  his  two  sisters.  These  two  ladies 
were  both  in  bed,  said  to  be  ill,  and  the  brother  was  also 
in  bed,  and  could  not  be  drawn,  as  to  get  to  his  room  it 
was  necessary  to  pass  through  that  occupied  by  the  ladies. 


A    PIOUS    RESOLVE  309 

Going  to  the  house  with  the  homeless  young  men,  I  found 
it  even  as  described.  The  clothes  and  necessary  goods  of 
the  owners  had  been  turned  out  into  the  garden  for  them  ; 
the  two  sisters  were  in  possession,  either  in  bed  or  occasion- 
ally appearing  at  the  window  in  very  light  and  airy  costumes  : 
they  were  ill,  it  was  said,  and  could  not  be  interviewed.  It 
was  evening,  and  there  was  nothing  to  be  done  but  take 
the  two  dispossessed  young  men  into  my  house  for  the 
night. 

The  next  day  the  whole  story  was  developed  after  the 
capture  of  the  brother,  the  two  ladies  discreetly  still  keeping 
to  their  beds,  deshabille,  and  diplomatic  indisposition.  The 
plot  had  been  carried  out  by  the  sanctimonious  old 
aunt.  The  old  Colonel,  who  had  been  all  his  life  in  civil 
employ,  and  who  for  nearly  forty  years  had  never  been 
near  a  soldier,  had  just  become  entitled  to  his  pension,  and, 
necessarily,  to  the  rank  of  General,  which  in  old  days  was 
always  given  on  retirement  to  this  class  of  ancient  person, 
who  often  knew  less  about  a  soldier  than  did  even  a  junior 
officer  of  Volunteers.  To  the  retirement  from  India  of  the 
pair  the  obstacle  had  hitherto  been  the  nephew,  who  had, 
however,  been  palmed  off  upon  me,  and  the  two  sisters 
who  had  yet  to  be  disposed  of.  This  done,  the  worthy 
couple  could  retire  to  Cheltenham  or  to  Bath  in  comfort. 
An  engagement,  it  is  true,  had  been  made  with  me  that 
the  sisters  were  not  to  join  the  brother.  But,  after  all, 
this  was  but  a  matter  of  detail.  The  old  lady,  too,  was 
eminently  religious,  and  it  cannot  have  escaped  notice  how 
eminently  religious  people  are  sometimes  able  to  permit 
themselves  to  do  what  those  who  do  not  assume  quite  so 
high  a  place  in  the  synagogue  would  hesitate  to  undertake, 
as  being  neither  right-wise  nor  just.  So,  keeping  the  plan 
a  profound  secret,  she  determined  that  the  young  ladies, 
despite  the  promise  to  me,  should  join  the  brother.  It 
was  so  bad  for  a  young  man's  morals  that  he  should  be 
left  alone,  said  the  old  lady ;  so,  with  convenient  casuistry, 
the  matter  was  arranged  with  her  conscience.     The  housing 


310  THE    FAMINE 

of  the  party  was  the  sole  difficulty.  The  resourceful  old 
campaigner  sent  a  trusty  servant  of  her  husband's  down 
ahead  to  report.  He  discovered  the  cheapest  convenient 
house  to  be  that  occupied  by  my  secretary,  and  he  tele- 
graphed the  result  to  his  mistress.  This  one  had  the  boxes 
all  ready  packed  and  the  young  women  prepared,  so  they 
started  at  once,  and  all  came  down  to  the  travellers' 
bungalow  where  they  spent  the  night,  keeping  their  move- 
ments a  profound  secret.  The  next  morning,  watching  the 
departure  of  the  owners  of  the  bungalow,  the  ladies,  ac- 
companied by  their  retainers,  had  carried  out  the  coup-d'etat, 
and  had  taken  possession  of  the  house  as  already  described. 
The  old  lady,  having  accomplished  her  object,  hurried  off 
to  join  the  General  second-class  in  the  mail  train  for  Bombay 
and  Cheltenham,  taking  good  care  not  to  come  near  me. 

The  difficulty  was  left  for  us  to  solve.  The  wretched  half- 
witted brother  had  not  been  in  the  plot  at  all,  and  had 
been  absent  at  his  work  during  the  demenagement.  It  was 
difficult  to  say  how  far  the  young  women  themselves  were 
in  it.  They  remained  in  a  state  of  diplomatic  indisposition 
and  deshabille  for  several  days,  during  which  it  was  difficult, 
under  the  circumstances,  to  get  into  the  small  house  or 
to  attempt  to  oust  them.  Later,  it  appeared  they  had  been 
left  with  hardly  any  means,  and  that  a  further  move  would 
be  ruinous  to  them.  So  the  two  young  men  who  had  been 
dispossessed  chivalrously  accepted  the  position  and  left  the 
party  undisturbed.  And  there  these  ladies  remained  for 
some  time  to  become  a  thorn,  or  rather  several  thorns,  in 
my  side.  The  brother,  poor  fellow,  was  hopeless.  He 
was  scarcely  more  than  half-  witted,  could  pass  none  of 
the  Departmental  Examinations,  and  eventually  had  to  retire. 
Fortunately,  he  died  soon  afterwards.  The  two  ladies, 
however,  soon  found  husbands,  though  I  may  fairly  say  I 
never  saw  two  women  in  all  my  experience  more  ill-favoured 
in  every  single  possible  respect.  One  married  and  ruined 
one  of  the  best  officers  of  the  Department,  who,  it  was 
supposed,  had  chivalrously  taken  compassion  on  her  forlorn 


ITS    RESULT  311 

condition.  The  other  mated  with  an  utter  scoundrel  among 
the  assistants,  who  had  subsequently  to  leave  the  service. 

I  attempted  some  correspondence  with  the  General  on  the 
whole  position.  He,  however,  asserting  his  entire  innocence 
in  the  affair,  declined  to  be  drawn.  Mrs  General,  entrenched 
behind  a  chapel  and  a  favourite  divine  at  Cheltenham,  was 
quite  equal  to  the  occasion.  If,  she  wrote,  there  had  indeed 
ever  been  any  such  understanding,  as  stated  by  me,  about 
the  dear  girls  joining  their  brother,  that,  of  course,  could 
not  stand  before  the  moral  aspect  of  the  case,  to  which  I 
might  not  perhaps  attach  much  importance,  but  to  which 
it  was  her  duty  as  a  Christian  woman  to  give  the  fullest 
weight.  The  brother  being  left  alone  in  the  place  was 
exposed  to  various  temptations  from  which  it  was  her  duty, 
so  her  conscience  told  her,  to  protect  him.  Had  she 
anticipated  any  sympathy  from  me  in  such  a  matter  she 
would  not  have  failed  to  have  consulted  me.  But,  alas ! 
she  feared  that  on  such,  what  she  had  the  highest  authority 
for  terming  spiritual  questions,  there  must  be  a  vast  diverg- 
ence between  her  views  as  a  Christian  woman  and  those 
of  one  who  would  regard  the  case  from  the  material  stand- 
point only.  She  was  glad  to  add  that  all  she  said  had  the 
full  approval  of  the  Rev.  DTsmal  Howler  of  the  Cheltenham 
Chapel,  one  of  whose  sermons  she  sent  me.  And  she  pro- 
mised that  she  and  the  reverend  gentleman  would  not  fail 
to  remember  me  in  their  prayers,  as  apparently  she  con- 
sidered that  this  attention  was  very  necessary  to  my 
future. 

The  poor  old  General  did  not  remain  long  in  it,  being 
soon  gathered  to  his  fathers.  But  this  eminently  Christian 
lady,  having  shunted  her  responsibilities  on  to  me,  lived 
for  many  years  at  Cheltenham,  a  great  authority  on  the 
composition  of  mango  -  chutney,  and  much  admired  in  a 
certain  set  as  the  embodification  of  all  the  many  varied 
and  well  -  known  Christian  virtues  and  well  -  advertised 
spiritual  excellences,  of  which  she  was  one  of  the  High 
Priestesses. 


312 


CHAPTER   XIV. 

AT    GHAZIPORE. 

1876  onwards. 

Examinations — Importance  of  the  language  question — My  sympathy 
with  the  examinees  —  Old  Nuckshahs  and  his  terrors  —  Other 
members  of  the  committee — The  best  bull-pup  in  Upper  India — 
Lob  Lane  and  Departmental  Examinations — The  old  Colonel's  views 
on  the  language — Original  method  of  drawing  a  proof  of  an  ex- 
amination paper — The  Powers  that  was — The  Paramount  Power — 
The  "  Belly-Gerant"  Power — Their  splendid  conduct  during  the 
Mutiny — Storm  in  a  flower-pot — Sad  effects  of  a  green  waistcoat — 
Failure  of  my  diplomacy — Our  palace  on  the  Ganges — Pleasures  of 
life — The  delights  of  camp — A  morning  in  the  bazaar — Coin- 
collecting — Metal  work — The  fiurana  chiz — Old  blue  china — An 
enterprising  collector — Lord  Ralph  Kerr  puts  us  on  the  track — A 
friend  from  home — Native  leather — A  pair  of  bazaar  shoes — 
Terrific  result — Signalling  by  lollipops — An  astute  banker  and 
peccant  signaller — On  the  road  to  Fatehgarh — Railway  ballast — 
The  ruined  temple — The  preservation  of  antiquarian  remains — My 
paper  before  the  Asiatic  Society — Government  complications — And 
orders  resulting  therefrom. 

Another  and  far  from  pleasant  duty  that  came  to  me  as 
head  now  of  a  great  Department  was  in  respect  to  examin- 
ations. With  these  examinations  themselves  I  had  little 
to  do,  as  they  were  conducted  by  Boards.  But  appoint- 
ments, promotions,  and  some  other  questions  depended 
thereon,  and  the  subject  was  constantly  coming  under  my 
notice.  No  one  in  authority  can  ignore  the  necessity  of 
examinations,  inconvenient  as  they  often  appear  to  be.  I 
myself  entertained  very  strong  opinions  regarding  the 
necessity  of  officers  being  "  good  at "  the  native  languages. 


HORRORS   OF   EXAMINATIONS  313 

But  my  views  did  not  prevail.  Though  I  had  learned 
French,  German,  and  Italian  as  a  boy,  and  always  kept  up 
my  knowledge,  I  had  never  taken  kindly  to  the  native 
tongues.  During  nearly  all  my  time,  too,  I  had  been 
employed  on  the  staff  of  the  service  in  English  offices. 
But  I  always  thought,  and  still  think,  that  our  officers  in 
all  Departments  in  India  are  not  sufficiently  versed  in  the 
vernacular.  By  this  I  mean  that  even  if  they  can  speak 
it  well,  few  can  read  it  readily.  The  native  scrawl  is  often 
painfully  difficult  to  decipher.  But  unless  an  officer  can 
read  it,  he  must  be,  even  in  the  most  confidential  matters, 
in  the  hands  of  a  native  clerk,  whose  interest  it  may  be  to 
garble  the  context.  And  what  dangers  and  injustice  may 
be  the  result  ?  There  are,  of  course,  some  men  in  the 
service,  called  "  Pundits,"  who  have  taken  seriously  to  the 
language  and  are  really  efficient.  But  the  number  who 
can  take  up  a  record  in  the  vernacular  of  a  case  and  read 
off  any  document  are  rare.  I  knew  one  barrister  who  could 
do  this,  and  the  advantage  he  had  over  his  brethren  was 
huge.     He  had,   I  think,  been  brought  up  in  India. 

I  had,  however,  ever  much  sympathy  with  the  young  officers 
over  their  examinations,  which  did  not  always  ensure  know- 
ledge, and  which  occasionally  obtained  for  some  inferior 
man  an  advantage  over  a  much  more  deserving  companion. 
I  must  relate  now  some  of  my  amusing  experiences  with 
examinations  at  different  times  of  my  service. 

The  Secretary  of  the  Board,  at  an  examination  of  which 
I  had  knowledge  some  little  time  after  I  took  up  my  ap- 
pointment at  Ghazipore,  was  an  eminent  civil  servant  of 
the  very  severe  type,  who  was  a  terror  to  those  who  had 
to  appear  before  him.  His  name  was  Tomson,1  but  he  was 
generally  known  as  "  old  Nuckshahs,"  or  "  tabular  state- 
ments," and  could  proudly  claim  to  have  added  seven 
columns  to  the  already  sufficiently  bloated  annual  tabular 
statements  ordered  by  Government.  It  was  he  who  was 
the   patron    of   the   Wasil-Bakee-Nawiz,    the   friend   of    the 

1  A  cousin  of  "  Black  Tommy's,"  ante,  chapter  vii. 


314  AT   GHAZIPORE 

well-known  Wajib-ul-Arz,  and  other  native  notables,  not  so 
popular  among  district  officers.  He  was  the  permanent 
member  of  the  Board  before  which  all  young  civilians  had 
to  appear  for  the  Departmental  Examinations,  a  refined 
system  of  torture  imposed  by  Government  on  those  who 
were  laboriously  attempting  to  gain  some  district  experi- 
ence. And  Tomson  was  determined  that  the  examinations, 
during  his  time  at  least,  should  lose  none  of  their  terrors. 
The  Board,  on  one  occasion,  was  composed  of  this  per- 
manent and  dreaded  member,  the  Commissioner  of  the 
Division,  and  the  Inspector-General  of  Police.  The  Com- 
missioner1 was  one  of  the  best  type  of  men  that  had  been 
produced  by  Haileybury  under  the  old  system,  and  which 
it  would  have  been  a  crime  to  destroy  had  all  its  products 
been  of  this  same  type.  A  perfect  administrator,  fearless 
and  resourceful,  he  was  an  excellent  sportsman,  and  had 
full  sympathy  with  those  of  his  officers  who  considered  that 
the  jungle  should  occasionally  be  inspected  as  well  as  the 
more  cultivated  corners  of  a  district.  At  Haileybury  he 
had  distinguished  himself  not  so  much  in  the  classes  as  in 
the  cricket-field.  He  himself  had  not  found  the  Department 
exams,  easy  or  to  his  liking,  but  had  got  through  them  in 
time  to  find  himself  in  charge  of  a  district  when  the  Mutiny 
broke  out.  Then  came  his  chance  ;  his  gallantry  and  re- 
source were  of  the  very  first  class,  and  by  soldiers  and 
civilians  alike  were  held  in  the  highest  esteem.  At  the  close 
of  operations  the  young  man  who  had  not  been  at  the  top 
of  the  term  at  Haileybury  came  out  very  high  on  the  list 
of  those  whose  names  were  submitted  by  the  Governor- 
General  for  special  honour,  and  the  junior  civilian  received 
the  Companionship  of  the  Order  of  the  Bath, — an  honour 
until  then  quite  unknown,  and  since  then  but  little  known, 
to  the  members  of  the  service. 

The  third  member,  the  Inspector-General  of  Police,  was 
a  popular  old  Colonel,  who,  excellent  at  his  own  adminis- 
trative work,  had  little  sympathy  with  the  torture  of  young 

1  Mr  George  Ricketts,  C.B. 


SPECIAL   QUALIFICATIONS  315 

officers  in  the  examination  hall.  He  had  had  a  good  lunch, 
washed  down  with  a  pint  of  dry  champagne,  and  with  a  big 
cigar  and  'The  Pioneer'  of  the  day  had  established  himself 
in  a  comfortable  arm-chair.  The  other  two  members  would 
form  a  quorum  and  settle  off  nearly  all  matters  without  his 
aid.  So  it  was  tacitly  agreed  that  the  Colonel  should  be  left 
undisturbed,  unless  he  snored  really  too  loud,  or  his  casting- 
vote  was  required  on  some  point  on  which  the  other  two 
could  not  agree.  The  pair  got  through  nearly  all  the  work, 
many  meritorious  candidates  had  been  passed ;  there  re- 
mained only  for  consideration  two  somewhat  doubtful  cases 
which  had  been  put  aside  to  see  whether  the  record  had 
anything  to  say  in  their  favour.  This  record  meant  a  report 
from  the  candidate's  Magistrate  on  his  general  merit.  Thus, 
for  instance,  if  an  Assistant  had  perchance  been  recently 
long  engaged  in  the  field,  assisting  in  the  hunting  of  dacoits, 
this  would  be  recorded  in  his  favour,  as  showing  his  time 
for  studying  law-books  had  been  trenched  upon.  On  opening 
the  first  record,  the  Secretary  said,  in  a  fine  pure  Glasgow 
accent,  to  which  it  would  be  difficult  to  do  justice  in  print, 
"  I  know  all  about  this  young  man ;  he  should  be  passed ; 
he  is  the  son  of  a  verra  raspaktarble  Scottcch  meenister." 
The  Commissioner  gave  a  grunt,  looking  unconvinced,  and 
not  exhibiting  any  marked  preference  for  the  class.     "  How 

about  the  next  man  ?  "  said  he.     "  M ,  is  it,  of  Mirza- 

pore  ?  Oh,  I  know  all  about  him  ;  I  met  him  the  other  day ; 
an  excellent  man ;  he  must  certainly  be  passed — he  has  got 
quite  the  best  bull-pup  in  Upper  India."  "  A  tayrierr  ?  "  says 
the  astonished  Secretary.  "  No,"  says  the  Commissioner, 
"  not  a  tayrierr.  I  said  a  Bull-pup."  "  I  dinna  see,"  retorts 
he,  "whart  that  hass  to  doo  with  hees  offeecial  mayrits  or 
quarlifications."  "  Oh,  anyhow,"  growls  the  Commissioner 
angrily,  "  it  is  every  bit  as  good  as  being  the  son  of  a 
verra  raspaktarble  Scottcch  meenister.  And  look  here, 
Tomson,"  he  continued,  "  if  you  don't  pass  my  man,  blowed 
if  I  pass  yours."  The  Colonel's  siesta  had  been  seriously 
disturbed  in  the  early  part  of  the  discussion,  and  he  awoke 


3l6  AT   GHAZIPORE 

to  a  consciousness  of  some  distinct  duty  towards  a  bull-pup. 
"Yes,  the  bull-pup,"  he  cried;  "I  vote  for  the  bull-pup." 
And  the  Secretary,  realising  that  he  would  be  in  a  hopeless 
minority  if  he  persisted,  caved  in.  So  passed  both  these 
candidates — he,  the  son  of  the  meenister,  and  he,  the  owner 
of  the  bull-pup.  And  having  known  both  of  these  officers 
intimately  of  later  years,  I  can  bear  testimony  to  the  credit 
that  each  has  borne  to  his  enthusiastic  sponsor. 

Soon  after  this  story  had  been  related  to  me,  I  was  riding 
up  the  long,  dreary  road  leading  from  the  river  up  to  Ranik- 
het,  when,  meeting  a  stranger  journeying  in  the  same 
direction,  I  joined  him,  and,  in  process  of  conversation, 
related  to  him  my  new  story  as  above  told.  "  Yes,"  he  said, 
"  I  have  heard  it  before,  having  been  present  at  its  birth. 
It  is  I  who  am  the  son  of  the  '  verra  raspaktarble  Scottcch 
meenister,'  but  I  cannot  congratulate  you  on  your  Glasgow 
accent."  For  some  twenty-five  years  now  that  meenister's 
son  has  been  one  of  my  most  intimate  and  valued  friends. 
As  for  the  other,  he  has  since  worthily  sustained  his  bull- 
pup  reputation.  Like  most  of  those  mentioned  in  these 
notes  who  have  not  joined  the  majority,  he  has  retired 
from  India,  where  he  was  ever  known  as  one  of  the  cheeriest 
and  most  generous  of  men.  Quite  recently  I  came  across 
him  at  a  palatial  hotel  at  a  foreign  winter  resort,  a  place 
loaded  up  to  the  muzzle  with  American  millionaires,  Russian 
princesses,  Moldavian  magnates,  Armenian  aristocrats,  Ger- 
man Jews,  and  a  mob  of  Britons  of  sorts.  By  all  of  these 
was  he  beloved  as  of  the  cheeriest  and  brightest.  His 
distinguished  surroundings  perhaps  prevented  his  according 
to  our  former  acquaintance  more  than  a  very  diminutive 
passing  recognition.  If,  however,  you  should  notice  in  the 
Paris  edition  of  '  The  Daily  Mail,'  which  devotes  so  much 
attention  to  the  high  life  of  these  very  smart  resorts,  an 
announcement  of  the  engagement  of  a  distinguished  Hibernian 
to  the  widow  of  a  Moldavian  Mogadar,  you  will  recognise 
my  man,  and  you  may  exclaim,  with  absolute  accuracy  as  to 
facts,  but  quite  regardless  of  grammar,  "  That's  him." 


A    CONVERSATION    IN    THE    VERNACULAR  317 

I  remember  that  at  one  Departmental  Examination  I  had 
to  attend,  poor  old  Lob  Lane,  who  died  recently,  was  also 
a  candidate.  It  had  ever  been  difficult  to  get  him  to  accept 
any  work  seriously,  and  necessarily  he  did  not  appear  to 
advantage  before  the  examiners.  Among  other  tests,  the 
candidate  had  to  carry  on  a  conversation  with  a  native 
gentleman  in  Hindustani ;  and  how  poor  old  Lob,  who  had 
hardly  learnt  a  word  of  the  language,  was  going  to  accom- 
plish this  was  a  problem.  A  fat  old  Sheristadar,  or  native 
Secretary,  was  brought  in  and  anchored  alongside  of  Lob. 
"Who  are  you?"  inquired  Lob  in  his  best  Hindustani,  his 
studies  not  having  got  much  further  than  this  and  a  few 
kindred  elementary  sentences.  "  Lord  of  the  World," 
answered  the  native  gentleman,  "your  slave  is  the  Sheris- 
tadar of  that  most  distinguished  civilian,"  indicating  Mr  Y.,. 
the  Commissioner,  who  was  conducting  the  examination,  and 
who  was  employed  in  reading  '  The  Overland  Mail '  at  the 
other  end  of  the  room.  And  thereupon  the  native  com- 
menced a  long  eulogy  of  his  patron,  little  of  which  poor 
Lane  could  understand.  But  he  recognised  in  the  discourse 
the  name  "  Burdwan,"  the  division  of  which  Mr  Y.  was  the 
Commissioner.  So,  when  the  eulogy  was  terminated,  Lane 
summoned  up  his  full  knowledge  of  the  language,  and  in- 
quired in  impressive  terms,  "Burdwan  Judge  sahib  kon  hat  ?  '* 
or  which,  being  interpreted,  means,  "Who  is  the  Judge 
at  Burdwan  ?  "  The  old  native  went  off  again  gaily  at 
score.  There  were  few  such  ornaments  to  the  service,  he 
said,  as  the  Judge,  and  recently  that  magnate  had  graciously 
appointed  the  son  of  that  humble  one  to  a  clerkship  in 
his  Court,  which  promised  future  advancement.  A  disquisi- 
tion on  the  legal  attainments  of  the  Judge,  all  of  which  was 
as  double -Dutch  to  Lane,  occupied  another  few  minutes, 
and  when  the  stout  old  official  stopped  to  take  breath,  Lane 
had  fully  prepared  himself  to  continue  the  conversation. 
He  asked  then  interestedly,  "Ah,  Burdwan  Magistrate  sahib 
kon  hai  ? "  or,  Who  is  the  Magistrate  at  Burdwan  ?  The 
native   waxed    even    more    enthusiastic   than    ever.      "  The 


318  AT   GHAZIPORE 

Magistrate  ?  was  he  not  the  son  of  the  late  Governor  ? 
Was  it  not  in  the  office  of  this  young  Magistrate  that  the 
humble  one  first  obtained  solid  advancement  ?  Did  not 
his  kind  patron  recommend  him  to  his  Lordship,  the  Papa, 
and  did  not  advancement  come  to  him  from  that  day  forth, 
so  that  now  he  had  attained  nearly  to  the  greatest  heights 
to  which  such  a  humble  one  could  aspire?"  And  then 
commenced  a  detailed  statement  of  the  Magistrate's  accom- 
plishments, which,  besides  legal  acumen,  included  cricket, 
tigers,  and  a  musical -box  of  unusual  proportions. 

The  enumeration  might  have  occupied  the  rest  of  the  day 
had  not  the  Commissioner,  warned  by  some  not  unnatural 
hilarity  among  the  candidates  who  had  partaken  of  the  interest- 
ing conversation,  laid  aside  'The  Overland  Mail,'  and  having 
some  idea  of  what  had  been  going  on,  said,  "  Now,  really, 
Mr  Lane."  "Well,  sir,"  saidthe  candidate,  "I  have  been 
carrying  on  a  conversation  with  this  native  gentleman,  as 
he  will  tell  you,  for  the  last  ten  minutes."  "  No,  Mr  Lane," 
replied  the  official,  "  that  won't  do.  Now  ask  him  this 
question," — and  the  Commissioner  took  up  a  dialogue  book 
of  missionary  issue  from  the  table  (his  forte  was  the  Bengali 
language,  and  he  was  weak  in  Hindustani),  and  opening  the 
book  at  random,  said,  "  Mr  Lane,  you  will  please  put  the 
following  into  the  language  to  the  Sheristadar:  'Life  is 
short ;  are  you  prepared  for  eternity  ? ' "  Lane  might  as 
well  have  been  expected  to  put  this  sentence  into  Chinese 
as  into  the  language  of  the  old  native  Sheristadar.  But 
he  was  equal  to  the  occasion.  "  No,  Mr  Young,"  he  said, 
"you  cannot  catch  me  there !  I  may  not  be  strong  at  Hindu- 
stani, but  I  know  my  duty  as  an  officer.  I  am  forbidden  to 
tamper  with  this  man's  religious  opinions;  I  decline  to  ask 
him  such  a  question."  But,  alas !  even  this  could  not  save 
him  from  being  spun,  and  he  might  have  had  to  go  on 
going  up  for  examinations,  and  being  spun  indefinitely,  had 
not  a  relative,  soon  after  this,  left  him  a  considerable  fortune. 
And  whilst  his  contemporaries  frizzled  out  in  India,  dear 
old  Lob  could   command   most  of  the   good  things  of  the 


THE    PRESIDENT'S    STANDARD  319 

world,  and  all  that  in  any  climate  he  might  choose  to  select. 
But  he  never  neglected  his  old  friends,  and  there  was  a 
corner  table  in  the  dining-room  of  the  Union,  where,  to 
myself  and  others,  the  most  elaborate  repasts  used  to  be 
served,  necessitating  in  their  creation  and  preparation  a 
careful  and  lengthened  study  which,  had  it  been  applied  to 
languages,  would  have  enabled  him  easily  to  have  mastered 
Hindustani  and  Chinese  both  rolled  into  one. 

The  military  examination  tests  were  not  generally  so 
severe  as  ours,  as  we  were  expected,  among  other  things, 
to  be  able  to  read  the  most  fearful  scrawls  in  native  writing 
— shikast,  as  it  was  called.  But  in  the  old  days,  if  report 
be  true,  the  young  officer  was  often  at  the  mercy  of  the 
idiosyncrasies  of  the  president  or  senior  officers  of  the 
committee.  It  is  related  how  a  young  ensign,  who  had 
been  brought  up  at  an  Indian  hill  -  school  and  had  only 
passed  a  couple  of  years  in  Europe  before  obtaining  his 
commission,  presented  himself  for  examination.  Having 
spoken  Hindustani  all  his  life,  he  did  not  regard  the  simple 
colloquial  test  with  any  great  anxiety.  At  the  close  of 
the  day  the  secretary  of  the  committee  said,  "  Of  course  we 

pass  Ensign  W ;  he  speaks  the  language  like  a  native." 

"Exactly,"  growled  the  old  Colonel,  the  president;  "he 
speaks  the  language  like  a  native,  but  he  don't  speak  it  like 
a  gentleman,  and  I  won't  pass  any  officer  who  don't  speak 
the  language  like  a  gentleman." 

For  myself,  I  escaped  during  the  early  part  of  my  service 
half  the  horrors  of  the  Departmental  Examinations.  I  went 
down  to  the  Central  Provinces  as  Assistant-Secretary  before 
the  second  examination  came  on.  At  busy  Nagpore  this  type 
of  terror,  in  the  absence  of  unweaned  civil  servants,  was  un- 
known, and  for  two  years  I  was  far  too  busy  galloping  over 
the  new  Provinces  with  Temple  to  think  of  such  extras.  But 
fate  lay  in  wait  for  me  and  paid  me  out  when  I  was  ad- 
vanced in  years.  I  had  raised  and  long  commanded  several 
corps  of  Volunteers,  and  had  passed  all  the  obligatory  mili- 
tary  examinations,    when   it   was   suggested   to    me   to   dis- 


320  AT    GHAZIPORE 

tinguish  myself  and  set  a  good  example  to  my  officers  by 
passing  yet  other  examinations,  which  would  place  after 
my  name  in  the  Army  List  a  big  T,  meaning  proficiency 
in  tactics.  And  I  was  even  persuaded  to  join  a  garrison 
class.  I  succeeded  in  inflicting  on  myself  quite  a  sufficiency 
of  unnecessary  torture,  to  the  delight  and  amusement  of  the 
officers  of  my  staff.  To  see  an  ancient  head  of  a  Depart- 
ment walk  off  to  some  secluded  spot  to  learn  up  a  text-book, 
or  to  find  him  give  up  his  whist  at  the  club  to  pore  over 
the  plan  of  some  Peninsular  battle,  gave  the  enemy  an 
opportunity  of  wagging  their  heads.  And  it  delighted  the 
young  assistants  who  had  yet  examinations  to  pass  to  see 
some  one  else  in  the  same  boat  as  their  unhappy  selves.  I 
am  glad  to  say  the  big  T  may  be  seen  still  after  my  name 
in  the  Army  List. 

I  must  close  these  examination  sketches  by  the  relation 
of  a  story  the  fundamental  facts  of  which  have  an  authentic 
foundation,  of  the  manner  in  which  certain  native  students, 
evading  the  most  elaborate  precautions,  succeeded  in  obtain- 
ing the  text  of  a  well -guarded  examination  paper.  The 
sheets  of  paper  issued  to  the  printer  were  carefully  counted, 
the  men  were  searched  on  entering  and  leaving  the  office, 
but  nevertheless  the  questions  got  out.  An  official  passing 
one  of  the  rooms  in  the  office  caught  a  glimpse  of  a  man 
carefully  examining  a  fat,  fair,  Brahmin  youth,  stretched  on 
his  stomach  on  a  table  as  if  for  a  surgical  operation,  whilst 
the  investigator  carefully  jotted  down  notes  of  his  inspection. 
It  had  been  impossible  to  carry  off  the  coveted  examination 
questions  on  paper  or  any  substance  concealed  on  his  gar- 
ments, so  the  printer  had  selected  as  his  assistant  this  speci- 
ally fair  and  fat  Brahmin  youth.  This  one  it  was  who  had 
been  permitted  to  sit,  without  his  clothes,  on  the  well-inked 
type  of  the  examination  form,  and  had  succeeded  in  carrying 
away  on  the  base  of  his  well-developed  person  the  full  text 
of  these  questions.  These  were  being  read  off  and  carefully 
transcribed  by  the  printer  when  the  chance  official  passed, 
as  above  mentioned,  and  discovered  the  clever  plot  ! 


THE    POWERS   THAT    WAS  321 

My  service  among  civilians  had  hitherto  been  with  the 
rather  exclusive  type  of  Lower  Bengal,  or  my  young  go-ahead 
contemporaries  of  the  Central  Provinces.  Stationed  now  in 
Northern  India,  I  came  across  the  old  class  of  civilian,  the 
man  who  had  been  through  the  Mutiny  and  who  had  therein 
done  yeoman  service  for  his  country  and  the  British  name. 
I  must  now  attempt  to  sketch  one  of  these. 

Some  thirty  years  ago  there  flourished  exceedingly  in  the 
North-West  Provinces,  as  they  were  then  called,  two  brothers, 
senior  civilians  of  the  old  school,  who  were  both  well  known 
for  eccentricity  and  originality  which  would  hardly  be  so 
successful  of  growth  in  the  official  atmosphere  of  the  present 
day.  They  were  Irishmen  of  the  name  of  Power,  and  the 
elder — a  tall,  strikingly  handsome  man — I  had  named  "The 
Paramount  Power."  The  younger  fitted  into  the  nickname 
of  the  "  Belly-Gerant  Power,"  as  he  was  occasionally  com- 
bative, and  his  figure  was  not  lost,  but,  according  to  the 
old  joke,  "gone  before."  They  were  the  sons  of  a  dis- 
tinguished old  Peninsular  officer,  General  Sir  John  Power, 
an  intimate  friend  of  my  father.  Though  my  seniors  by 
some  fifteen  years,  they  had  known  me  as  a  small  boy, 
and  were  thus  pleased  to  extend  to  me  more  consideration 
than  they  generally  vouchsafed  to  those  of  my  standing. 
In  addition  to  his  remarkable  good  looks,  John,  the  elder, 
had  a  real  grand  manner,  and  was  as  courteous  and  cere- 
monious as  any  French  marquis  of  the  old  school.  As 
might  have  been  expected  from  their  blood,  both  brothers 
behaved  with  marked  coolness  and  gallantry  during  the 
Mutiny,  and  the  well-known  stories  of  their  doings  had 
earned  for  them  a  reputation  and  popularity  which  went 
far  towards  excusing  them  with  the  Government  and  others 
when  some  more  than  usual  originality  occurred.  It  was 
related  how,  when  the  Mutiny  broke  out  at  Mainpuri,  the 
two  brothers  showed  to  marked  advantage  with  their  com- 
manding figures  in  the  fighting  line.  But  there  had  been 
some  delay  in  getting  them  into  line.  Although  the 
mutineers    were    approaching    the    house,     nothing    would 

x 


322  AT   GHAZIPORE 

induce  John  to  move  until  he  had  completely  finished  his 
ever  -  very  -  elaborate  toilet.  And  of  course  the  younger 
would  not  desert  his  brother.  Then  there  was  a  further 
delay  when  John  insisted  on  returning  under  fire  to  retrieve 
his  ivory  hair-brushes,  which,  in  an  utterly  unaccountable 
manner,  he  had  omitted  to  include  among  those  most  in- 
dispensable and  pressing  necessaries  for  the  retreat.  And 
here,  again,  the  other  would  not  leave  his  brother's  side. 
As  to  most  of  their  subsequent  doings,  are  they  not  written 
in  the  official  record  of  the  great  Mutiny?  One  passage 
I  remember  in  an  official  despatch,  in  which  the  elder 
brother  modestly  reported  how  they  had  resisted  an  attack 
on  their  house  by  the  sepoys.  John  disliked  all  control, 
and  resented  the  remarks  of  the  Judges  of  the  High  Court 
on  some  striking  irregularities  of  his  in  recording  evidence 
early  in  the  year,  when  Europeans  were  thinking  less  about 
the  safety  of  their  lives.  So  Power  wrote  in  his  despatch  : 
"I  hope  the  Government  will  do  me  the  favour  of  bringing 
to  notice  of  the  High  Court  that  I  have  realised  more  fully 
lately  the  wisdom  of  their  former  instructions,  and  that  a 
good  fat  khanah-junghy-misl"  (that  is  to  say,  a  record  of 
an  assault  or  riot  case),  "well  stuffed  with  false  evidence, 
according  to  the  most  recent  circulars  of  the  High  Court, 
is,  I  can  testify  from  personal  experience,  an  excellent 
protection  against  a  mutineer's  bullet."  I  have  not  the 
record  to  refer  to,  but  the  above  is  a  fairly  correct  render- 
ing of  Power's  recantation,  and  which  hardly  restored  him 
to  favour  with  the  honourable  Judges. 

I  had  the  following  experience  of  John  in  later  years,  when 
he  was  Judge  of  Shajehanpore.  My  wife  and  I  were  staying 
with  him  there  one  cold-weather  during  my  annual  tour.    The 

magistrate  of  the  district  was  Mr  C ,  who,  although  two 

years  my  senior,  had  been  at  Haileybury  with  me.  I  learnt 
that  there  was  war  between  him  and  the  Judge, — a  most 
inconvenient  position,  as  it  affected  not  only  all  social 
festivities  among  the  Europeans  in  the  station,  but  also 
opened   a  door   for   the   intrigues   of   the   natives,   who  are 


STORM    IN   A   FLOWER-POT  323 

not  slow  to  take  advantage  of  such  complications.  The 
trouble,  I  learnt  from  C ,  had  originated  over  a  flower- 
pot, but  I  have  forgotten  the  exact  details  of  the  part  the 

pottery  played   in  the  proceedings.      C was  willing  to 

make  any  reasonable  concession  to  secure  peace,  and  as 
I  was  staying  in  Power's   house,  and  was   supposed   to  be 

less  intolerable  to  him  than  most  others,  C begged  me, 

on  official  as  well  as  private  grounds,  to  try  and  settle 
up  the  affair.  For  a  couple  of  days  I  brought  into  action 
the  full  weight  of  my  best  diplomacy,  with  very  little  result, 
and  only  eventually  succeeded  by  marshalling  up  the  reserves 
of  my  wife's  intercession,  which  the  old  gentleman  was  too 
courteous  to  ignore.  At  last  I  got  as  far  as  the  preliminaries 
of  a  settlement  between  the  high-contracting  parties,  which 

Power  laid  down,  and  which  C ,  I  knew,  would  be  willing 

enough  to  accept.  "  My  young  friend,"  said  old  Power,  for 
he  always  regarded  me  as  the  small  boy  of  our  early  ac- 
quaintance, "  I  shall  not,  after  what  you  have  urged,  refuse 
to  resume  social  intercourse  with  Mr  C ,  if  he  will  con- 
form to  certain  conditions,  which  I  consider  it  absolutely 
necessary  should  be  observed  by  him.  In  the  first 
place,  the  advance  must  be  on  his  part,  not  only  because 
he  is  my  junior  in  the  service,  but  because  I  insist  upon 
it.  I  leave  the  club  on  my  return  from  my  walk  every 
morning  at  about  eight  o'clock,  now  that  it  is  cool "  (the  old 
gentleman's  daily  visits  to  the  club  were  only  too  notorious, 
as  he  went  there  every  morning  to  carry  off,  immediately  on 
its  arrival, '  The  Pioneer,'  the  Allahabad  daily  paper,  which  no 
one  had  a  chance  of  seeing  until  the  great  man  was  pleased 
to  return  it  either  that  afternoon  or,  perhaps,  early  the  next 

morning).     "If,"  continued    Mr   John    Power,    "Mr   C 

will  await  me  on  the  road  to-morrow  morning,  and  raising 
his  hat  will  say,  '  Good  morning,  Mr  Power,'  I  shall  be  pre- 
pared to  return  the  salute  and  reply,   '  Good  morning,  Mr 

C .'     If  he  will  then  extend  his  hand  I   will   accept   it, 

and  our  social  relations  will  be  then  resumed  on  the  basis 
of  our  former  acquaintance." 


324  AT   GHAZIPORE 

I  hurried  over  to  the  Magistrate  to  acquaint  him  with 
the  success  of  my  diplomacy,  and  carefully  explained  to 
him  the  procedure  prescribed,  the  hat-lifting,  &c,  to  all 
of  which  he  promised  rigidly  to  conform.  And  I  went 
to  rest  well  content  with  myself  for  having  carried  suc- 
cessfully through  so  difficult  a  diplomatic  negotiation. 
The  next  morning,  on  my  return   from  my  ride,  I  saw  Mr 

C awaiting  me  at  his  gate,   full  of  grateful  thanks,   I 

supposed,  for  my  action.  To  my  surprise,  however,  he  was 
in  the  worst  of  humours,  and  commenced  to  complain  of  my 
having  "  landed  him  in  a  hole,"  as  he  expressed  it.  "  You 
told  me,"  he  said,  "  old  Power  had  promised  to  make  it  up, 
if  I  met  him  near  the  club,  bowed,  and  wished  him  good 
morning.  I  duly  met  him,  and  did  exactly  what  you  told  me 
had  been  agreed  upon.  But  Power,  instead  of  lifting  his 
hat,  and  accepting  my  hand,  stared  angrily  at  me,  and,  turn- 
ing on  his  heel,  walked  off."  I  was  quite  unable  to  guess  the 
cause  of  the  unlucky  contretemps,  and  at  breakfast  begged 
my  host  to  explain  where  the  negotiations  had  failed.  "  It 
was  no   fault  of  yours,  my  young  friend,"  he  said,  "  or  of 

mine,  indeed,  but  entirely  the  fault  of  that  fellow  C .     I 

went  out  this  morning  with  the  full  intention  of  carrying  out 
the  arrangement  in  every  detail.  But  when  I  met  the  fellow, 
confound  him,  he  had  on  a  green  waistcoat !  and  how  could  I 
possibly  shake  hands  with  a  man  with  a  green  waistcoat  ?  " 
And  I,  thoroughly  realising  the  acuteness  of  the  situation, 
could  find  no  ready  reply  or  excuse.  I  found  on  inquiry,  too, 
that    Power's   account    of  the   contretemps  was    substantially 

accurate.      C ,    that    cold  -  weather    morning,    in    view, 

perhaps,  of  adding  dignity  to  the  occasion,  had  put  on  a 
new  green  waistcoat,  just  received  from  home.  And  it  was 
the  hue  of  this  vestment  which  had  proved  all  too  much 
for  old  Power's  assthetic  feelings.  Green  as  a  colour  was 
not  then  as  fashionable  for  men's  wear  as  it  is  to-day,  and 
although  I  did  not  go  so  far  as  my  friend,  I  was  not  without 
some  sympathy  with  him  in  his  views.  I  left  the  station 
next  day,  and  was  sorry  later  to  learn  that  the  war   had 


A    MISINTERPRETED    DECEASE  325 

blazed  up  afresh  with  greater  violence  than  ever.     And  so 

it  continued  until  poor  C suffered  a  severe  bereavement. 

Then  old  Power,  who,  at  heart,  was  a  kindly  old  creature, 
made  the  first  advance,  and  putting,  so  to  speak,  both  the 
flower-pot  and  the  green  waistcoat  in  his  pocket,  went  across 
to  see  his  ancient  enemy,  and  gave  him  his  full  sympathy 
and  aid. 

Soon  afterwards  Power  had  to  retire  under  the  rule  which 
limits  a  civilian  to  thirty-five  years'  service, — not  too  little,  it 
will  be  thought,  in  the  trying  Indian  climate.  But  Power, 
who  abhorred  change,  made  a  brave  try  to  remain  on.  He 
had  been  a  thorn  in  the  side  of  the  Government  for  years 
past,  and  nothing  but  his  Mutiny  service,  and  the  difficulty 
of  turning  out  a  man  who  is  near  his  pension,  and  has  paid 
up  for  the  greater  part  of  it,  would  have  saved  him  from  the 
consequences  of  some  of  the  most  pronounced  of  his  eccen- 
tricities. The  officials  interested  hailed,  therefore,  with  de- 
light the  prospect  of  being  rid  of  an  admitted  hard  bargain, 
and  his  petition  for  an  extension,  which  is  seldom  granted 
even  for  distinguished  service,  was  refused.  '  The  Pioneer,' 
the  leading  Indian  paper,  said  he  had  "died  hard,"  and  it 
is  a  fact  that  the  native  pleaders  of  his  brother's  court,  not 
understanding  the  idiom,  proferred  their  condolences,  and 
suggested  the  closing  of  the  court  in  mark  of  sympathy  at 
the  bereavement !  ! 

Some  years  later,  after  old  Power  had  retired  from  the 
service,  an  echo  of  the  story  of  his  carrying  off  the  newspaper 
from  the  local  reading-room  came  to  me  at  the  old  Erz- 
Herzog  Karl  at  Vienna,  a  long  cry  from  the  Indian  station  of 
Shajehanpore.  Since  early  in  my  Indian  service  I  had  been 
extravagant  enough  to  take  in  'The  Times,'  of  which  for 
a  period  I  was  special  correspondent,  and  my  newsagents 
always  sent  my  copies  after  me  on  my  travels.  There  was 
something  unusually  interesting  on  at  the  period,  and  my 
copy  of  '  The  Times '  had  miscarried.  On  going  down  to 
the  reading-room  of  the  hotel,  I  was  unable  to  find  there  the 
paper.     The  man  in  charge  of  the  room,  on  being  summoned, 


326  AT   GHAZIPORE 

groaned  out,  "  Oh,  Herr,  it  is  ever  the  same,  that  terrible, 
big,  old  English  gentleman !  He  comes  down  in  the  early 
morning,  immediately  after  the  paper  arrives,  and  carries  it 
up  to  his  room  on  the  top  floor,  and  we  can  never  get  back 
the  paper  until  he  goes  out  in  the  afternoon,  sometimes  not 
till  the  next  morning."  "Old  Power,"  I  cried  to  my  wife, 
and  mounting  to  the  top  story,  there  I  found  sure  enough 
old  Power  ensconced  behind  the  newspaper,  which  he  evi- 
dently regarded  as  his  private  property  until  such  time  as 
it  might  please  him  to  let  the  public  have  a  turn  at  it.  And 
I  understand  he  consistently  continued  his  depredations 
until  he  was  called  to  join  the  majority,  not  so  many 
years  ago. 

Both  brothers  have  now  long  since  passed  off  the  stage, 
and  if  it  is  permitted  to  amuse  ourselves  slightly  with  the 
tales  of  their  eccentricities,  many  of  us  will  have  retained 
of  them  a  kindly  remembrance  for  high  qualities,  for  real 
courage  shown  during  the  trying  days  of  the  Mutiny,  and 
for  a  certain  largeness  of  ideas  and  generosity  characteristic 
of  the  Irishman  of  the  best  type.  The  native  who  sometimes 
had  reason  to  complain  of  the  brothers,  always  recognised 
them  to  be  sahibs,  and  many  added  to  this  the  title  of  Bahadur. 
There  is  little  chance  of  such  original  specimens  being  seen 
again  in  the  Indian  service,  and  it  may  perhaps  be  said  that 
the  country  under  present  conditions  can  put  up  with  the 
loss. 

During  the  years  that  followed  1875,  when  I  was  ap- 
pointed Opium  Agent  at  Ghazipore,  I  was  busily  employed 
at  first  in  trying  to  wheel  the  officers  of  the  Department 
into  line,  and  had  something  of  the  same  sort  of  experi- 
ences that  early  encumbered  Temple's  administration  in  the 
Central  Provinces.  The  senior  officers  were  all  very  much 
older  than  myself,  and  were  not  inclined,  at  first,  to  admit 
that  they  could  be  taught  to  do  anything,  or  made  to  do 
anything  that  did  not  exactly  suit  them.  But  my  having 
read  the  Riot  Act  on  a  couple  of  occasions,  these  gentry 
began  to  understand  that  discipline  could  be  enforced,  and 


A    PALACE    AT   GHAZIPORE  327 

I  had  no  further  difficulty  on  this  score  during  the  rest  of  my 
tenure  of  the  office.  The  work  once  in  order,  it  was  found 
that  the  berth  had  very  much  with  which  to  commend  itself. 
An  appanage  of  the  post  was  a  quite  magnificent  house  on 
the  Ganges  at  Ghazipore,  surrounded  by  a  good  garden  and 
fine  grounds.  The  house  had  been  built  for  the  Agent  of 
the  Governor-General  in  the  days  that  this  was  the  northern 
limit  of  our  territory.  The  place  consisted  of  a  huge  central 
building,  designed  for  entertainments  and  receptions.  It 
was  flanked  on  either  side  by  a  smaller  house,  the  one  a 
comfortable  living  -  house,  the  other,  of  about  equal  size, 
formerly  used  as  a  guest  -  house  for  the  frequent  visitors  of 
former  days  to  the  Agent.  These  houses  were  connected 
with  the  main  building  by  passages.  The  old  guest-house 
was  now  the  office  of  my  Secretary.  The  grounds  were 
right  on  to  the  river  Ganges,  and  the  place  at  certain  seasons 
of  the  year,  especially  when  the  great  river  was  in  flood,  was 
very  beautiful  and  enjoyable.  Then,  for  the  hot  weather, 
there  were  the  Himalayas,  and  for  the  cold  weather,  all  the 
joys  of  camp  life  over  an  extended  area,  and  many  exceed- 
ingly interesting  districts. 

In  this  appointment  of  Opium  Agent  I  remained  during  the 
whole  of  the  rest  of  my  time  in  India — that  is,  for  a  period 
of  nearly  twenty  years.  For  there  was  hardly  anything  else 
better  to  be  got,  so  lucky  had  I  been  in  securing  this  excel- 
lent berth  early  in  my  service.  The  Board  of  Revenue,  the 
only  appointment  above  me,  save  that  of  Governor,  had  the 
disadvantage  of  tying  its  members  to  Calcutta.  I  should  have 
lost,  in  accepting  it,  the  advantage  of  the  hills  during  part  of 
the  year,  and  all  the  delights  of  camp  life,  and  the  power  of 
roaming  over  the  greater  part  of  the  N.W.  Provinces.  And 
to  me  the  climate  of  Calcutta  after  the  dry  air  of  the  Upper 
Provinces  was  insupportable.  The  salary  was  a  few  hundreds 
of  rupees  a-month  more  than  I  received.  But  this  would 
have  been  more  than  swallowed  up  by  the  heavy  Calcutta 
house-rent,  as  against  a  magnificent  house  at  Ghazipore  rent 
free.     And  then  I  should  have  lost  all  my  Volunteer  interests, 


328  AT    GHAZIPORE 

which  were  soon  to  be  strong  upon  me.  So  I  declined  the 
appointment,  and  remained  as  Opium  Agent  until  I  finally 
left  India  in  1894. 

These  years  were  all  spent  in  almost  the  same  fashion. 
The  headquarter  work  claimed  me  for  a  part  of  the  year 
at  Ghazipore.  Then  I  regularly  got  away  to  the  hills  for 
a  portion  of  the  hot-weather  and  the  rains,  running  down 
when  any  special  work  required  my  attention.  November 
saw  one  in  camp.  And  then  the  next  year  the  same  order 
was  repeated,  varied  by  visits  on  duty  to  Calcutta,  and 
periodical  visits  home.  Up  to  the  present,  in  these 
"  Memories,"  the  plan  has  been  adopted  of  following 
my  doings  year  by  year.  To  hold  on  to  this  course  now 
would  be  tedious,  so  it  is  not  proposed  to  attempt  to  describe 
the  life  led  by  me  in  its  several  phases,  what  is  related  of 
one  year  holding  good  generally  for  the  following  years 
also.  Nor  is  it  intended  to  refer  in  detail  to  the  many 
visits  home  with  which  our  life  was  varied.  There  was  a 
run  across  the  Continent,  with  a  halt  at  some  favourite 
resorts,  then  London,  then  visits  to  Albury,  Syon,  Alnwick, 
Guy's  Cliffe,  and  other  beautiful  English  homes,  as  already 
described.  Then  the  return  to  India,  generally  just  before 
the  commencement  of  the  cold  weather  and  the  time  for 
start  into  camp.  And  inasmuch  as,  to  my  mind,  this  was 
one  of  the  most  enjoyable  times  of  the  year,  an  effort  must 
be  made  to  describe  its  many  and  various  phases  and 
delights. 

Camping  generally  began  about  the  middle  of  November, 
when  the  days  were  not  too  short  or  too  hot.  The  Opium 
Agents  and  other  high  officers  of  Government  were  liberally 
treated  in  regard  to  their  camps.  That  is  to  say,  they  were 
supplied  with  a  considerable  number  of  handsome,  roomy 
tents,  which,  together  with  the  paraphernalia  relating  there- 
to,— the  furniture,  the  commissariat,  and  other  necessaries  of 
a  large  camp, — were  all  conveyed  at  the  Government  expense. 
The  camp  was  generally  sent  out  some  eight  miles  on  the 
high-road   for  the  first   march,  and    here   a  halt    was    made 


IN    CAMP  329 

until  all  was  found  to  be  in  order.  Of  tents  there  were 
handsome  double-poled  tents,  as  they  were  called,  to  be  used 
for  reception,  drawing-room,  and  dining-room.  Then  there 
was  the  Agent's  office-tent,  and  a  bedroom  and  dressing- 
tent,  and  one  for  the  English  maid,  when  with  us  in  camp. 
Then  the  Personal  Assistant,  or  Private  Secretary,  who 
always  accompanied  the  Agent,  had  his  own  tents.  And 
there  were  tents  for  servants  and  horses,  and  for  the  guard 
which  marched  with  the  carts  and  posted  sentries  day  and 
night.  The  Opium  Officer  of  the  district  and  his  assistant 
generally  marched  with  the  camp,  adding  his  tents  to  the 
line.  All,  or  nearly  all,  the  tents  were  in  duplicate,  so  one 
was  carried  ahead  and  pitched  ready  for  your  arrival,  whilst 
you  slept  peacefully  in  his  twin  brother.  The  camp  would 
be  pitched  by  the  roadside,  in  a  grove  of  mango -trees,  the 
main  routes  being  rich  in  these  pleasing  adjuncts  to  camp- 
life.  The  splendid  shade  would  protect  you  until  the 
approach  of  the  hot  weather,  and  would  always  be  grateful 
unless  the  rain  came  on,  which  generally  was  at  a  well- 
appointed  time.  That  is  to  say,  starting  in  the  middle  of 
November,  you  might  rely  on  the  most  perfectly  delightful 
weather  until  past  Christmas,  towards  the  last  days  of 
December.  Then  you  had  to  look  out  for  squalls,  and  for  a 
few  days  whilst  the  rain  lasted  camp  was  to  be  avoided. 
But,  until  then,  the  climate  was  perfection.  With  a  large 
camp  it  was  necessary  to  keep  to  the  high-road,  and  along 
this  you  would  ride  or  drive  of  a  morning  in  the  most  deli- 
cious air.  My  wife  and  her  maid  or  visitors  would  travel  in 
the  landau  provided  for  me  by  Thorne.  I  would  ride  with 
some  of  the  officers  in  camp,  and  either  inspect  some  opium 
cultivation  to  be  seen  on  the  way,  interviewing  the  villagers, 
or  shoot  along  the  line  of  march,  if  we  were  in  a  likely 
district,  seeing  the  country  and  the  people  at  the  same  time. 
Then  the  bath  and  breakfast.  Probably  the  post-bag,  or 
boxes,  carried  along  on  an  ecka  or  light  two-wheeled  cart 
drawn  by  a  smart  pony,  would  come  in  with  the  letters, 
newspapers,  and  official  despatches.     These  latter  would  be 


33°  AT   GHAZIPORE 

disposed  of  in  the  forenoon.  Thus  generally,  after  luncheon, 
one  had  the  rest  of  the  day  to  oneself.  Then  for  a  shooting 
expedition,  or  a  visit  to  a  bazaar,  or  some  place  of  note  in 
the  neighbourhood,  which  in  these  districts  were  plentiful, 
and  often  of  great  merit — old  temples,  ruins  of  great  cities, 
celebrated  shrines,  and  points  of  historical  interest.  I  had 
early  taken,  thanks  to  the  advice  of  Prinsep,  to  the  collection 
of  coins,  to  all  except  that  of  the  current  rupee,  in  which  I 
never  succeeded.  In  India,  where  little  early  history  is  avail- 
able, it  is  from  the  coins  that  the  existence  and  succession  of 
the  various  dynasties  and  sovereigns  are  to  be  learnt.  These 
coins  are  to  be  found  over  the  whole  country  throughout 
the  Gangetic  plain,  the  great  trade-route  in  all  times.  On 
old  village  sites,  or  the  ruins  of  ancient  cities,  the  heavy  rain 
would  leave  these  exposed,  and  the  village  urchins  would 
collect  them  and  carry  them  to  the  local  coppersmith,  who 
would  purchase  them  and  eventually  melt  them  down.  For 
the  coins  were  generally  of  copper,  though  silver  pieces  and 
even  gold  ones  were  occasionally  to  be  found.  To  the  bazaar 
would  we  hie  of  an  afternoon,  and  persuade  the  local  copper- 
smith to  produce  what  he  considered  his  rubbish,  and  which 
was  destined  for  the  melting  -  pot.  All  this  was  carefully 
looked  through.  By  constant  practice  one  got  to  know  and 
pick  out  a  rare  or  interesting  coin  at  once.  The  smallest 
bazaar  by  the  roadside  was  not  to  be  despised  or  overlooked, 
for  there  some  valuable  coin  might  by  chance  have  been 
carried,  and  might  be  recognised  and  saved  before  it  was 
claimed  by  the  melting-pot.  My  wife  was  quite  as  expert  as 
I  was  in  this  coin-hunting,  and  great  would  be  our  delight 
when  some  afternoon's  expedition  would  be  found  to  have 
added  a  valuable  coin  to  our  collection.  I  went  on  steadily 
for  years  working  at  this  one  of  my  hobbies,  and  when  I  was 
leaving  India  my  collection,  especially  that  of  gold  coins  of 
the  Gupta  type,  was  quite  the  finest  known.  I  parted  with 
it  to  the  India  Museum  for  the  value  of  the  gold,  though 
I  could  have  obtained  probably  ten  times  the  amount  had  I 
sold  it  to  a  foreign  museum.     But  my  desire  was  to  secure 


COLLECTIONS    OF   SORTS  331 

the  collection  for  India.1  At  the  same  time,  we  were  on  the 
look-out  for  all  articles  of  interest  that  chance  might  throw 
in  our  way.  What  may  be  seen  in  an  Indian  bazaar  my  wife 
has  already  described  in  a  well-known  paper,2  and  it  is  to  a 
bazaar  that  those  who  wish  to  learn  about  the  country  and 
the  people  are  recommended  to  go.  In  my  time,  the  large 
bazaars  at  Benares  and  elsewhere  contained  treasures  of 
valuable  old  blue  and  other  china,  the  delight  of  collectors. 
Of  these  we  secured  some  specimens.  Also  many  examples 
of  beautiful  metal-work — not  the  modern  brass-ware  of  the 
Benares  bazaar,  so  well  known  to  tourists,  but  pieces  exquis- 
itely modelled  by  the  craftsmen  of  times  gone  by  at  Nepal  or 
Poonah,  and  sold  or  left  by  pilgrims  on  their  visits  to  the 
local  shrines.  Of  these  I  made  a  really  valuable  collection, 
and  they  will  be  found  described  and  figured  in  the  '  Indian 
Art  Journal's '  excellent  series  of  plates.3 

We  would,  after  a  good  hunt  in  the  bazaar,  carry  back  our 
finds  and  treasures  to  camp,  and,  setting  them  out,  proceed 
to  label  them,  adding,  in  a  register,  anything  connected  with 
the  purchase  that  might  be  of  interest.  We  often  had  visitors 
in  camp,  and  the  exploration  of  the  large  bazaars  as  at 
Benares,  Agra,  &c,  was  carried  on  with  method.  The 
brokers  and  the  dealers  soon  found  out  what  we  were  after, 
and  the  cry  of  purdna  chiz,  "  old  things,"  antiquities,  would 
go  ahead,  and  be  re-echoed  all  around  us.  I  remember  Lord 
Downe  being  pursued  the  whole  afternoon  by  a  man  with  a 
very  purdna  chiz  indeed.  This  was  the  battered  remains  of  a 
cheap  plated  cruet-holder,  which  besides  being  very  old  and 
battered  had  no  merit.  But  occasionally  the  finds  were  most 
exciting.  Hunting  in  a  party,  we  came  to  an  arrangement 
which  prevented  unnecessary  competition.  On  return  to 
camp  everything  netted  was  placed  out  on  a  long  table.     We 

1  An  account  of  this  collection,  illustrated  with  plates  of  the  coins,  will  be  found 
in  the  beautiful  catalogues  published  by  the  authorities  of  the  British  Museum,  to 
which  several  valuable  coins  were  presented  by  me. 

2  See  "An  Afternoon  in  an  Indian  Bazaar,"  by  Mrs  J.  H.  Rivett-Carnac,  in  the 
'  Indian  Art  Journal.' 

*  *  Indian  Art  Journal,'  No.  77,  "  A  Lesser  Hindu  Tantheon." 


332  AT   GHAZIPORE 

then  drew  lots  for  order  of  choice.  The  system  worked 
excellently,  and  is  founded  on  the  school  rule  that  if  to  one 
boy  is  confided  the  halving  of  the  apple,  to  the  other  is  the 
right  of  first  choice.  The  collection  of  old  blue  china  in  the 
bazaar  was  first  suggested  to  us  by  Lord  Ralph  Kerr,  then 
Colonel  of  the  ioth  Hussars,  whilst  on  a  visit  to  us  at 
Benares.  We  had  been  collecting  old  metal-work,  and  this 
new  quarry  opened  new  interests.  We  were  fairly  success- 
ful. But  news  of  our  finds  got  abroad,  and  in  a  few  days' 
time  an  astute  man  connected  with  the  railway  had  sent 
munskis,  or  native  clerks,  to  all  the  principal  bazaars,  with 
specimen  pieces,  and  had  bought  up  nearly  everything  avail- 
able. Later,  I  saw  some  large  cases-full  being  loaded  on  the 
train  for  Bombay,  and  the  enterprising  man  turned  over  a 
goodly  sum,  we  heard. 

In  camp  we  had  nearly  every  comfort  to  be  found  in  a 
good  house, — books,  comfortable  furniture,  and  even  fire- 
places around  which  to  group  ourselves  of  an  evening. 
The  officers  with  me  in  camp  generally  dined  with  us, 
our  servants  laid  the  table,  and  the  cook  turned  out  a 
dinner  nearly  after  the  fashion  of  the  station.  All  dressed 
for  dinner,  though  the  ladies  did  not  put  on  feathers  and 
trains.  On  the  march  one  often  met  other  camps.  Then 
we  would  join  forces,  and  the  morning  rides  and  evening 
dinner-parties  would  be  very  cheery  and  pleasant. 

The  camp  must  now  be  supposed  to  have  reached  Agra, 
and  I  must  exhibit  a  favourite  lantern-slide,  showing  a  visit 
to  the  bazaar  there  with  an  unconventional,  clever  lady,  the 
sister  of  one  of  my  home  friends,  who  came  on  a  visit  to 
India.  One  morning  I  accompanied  her  to  the  bazaar, 
reserving  the  Taj  for  the  cool  of  the  afternoon.  Nothing  in 
an  Indian  town  is  more  interesting  and  instructive  than  the 
bazaar.  Besides  the  kaleidoscopic  colour  of  the  moving 
crowd,  there  are  generally  to  be  seen  venerable  old  buildings 
of  fantastic  shapes,  with  temples  and  mosques  of  various 
styles  of  architecture,  to  form  an  artistic  background.  The 
shops  are  a  study  for  those  interested  in  the  economy  of  the 


TERRORS    OF    NATIVE    LEATHER  333 

life  of  the  people,  and  they  give  some  idea  of  the  prosperity 
of  the  neighbourhood,  as  do  the  window-dressings  of  a 
country  town  in  the  shires  to  those  driving  through  the 
streets.  A  visit  to  an  Indian  bazaar  has  been  well  described 
at  some  length  by  my  wife  in  the  '  Indian  Art  Journal  ' 
above  noticed ;  and  Sir  Mountstuart  Grant-Duff,  who  was 
once  with  us  at  Allahabad,  has  related  in  one  of  his  diaries 
his  experiences  in  our  company  in  the  bazaar  there.     Miss 

A sketched  and  admired  and  made  many  purchases  at 

the  shops,  containing  an  endless  variety  of  native  manu- 
factures. At  the  close  of  the  morning,  on  our  way  home,  we 
passed  through  a  part  of  the  leather  bazaar,  this  malodorous 

product  having  a   corner  to   itself.      Miss   A suddenly 

stopped  in  front  of  a  boot-shop,  and  seizing  a  pair  of  shoes 
made  after  a  European  model,  pronounced  them  to  be  the 
very  things  she  wanted,  and  promptly  concluded  a  purchase. 
In  the  evening  she  came  to  dine  at  the  Commissioner's,  where 
I  was  staying.  It  was  the  cold-weather,  and  those  who  have 
visited  Upper  India  in  the  winter  months  know  how  cold  it 
can  be  at  nights.  We  all  sat  round  a  blazing  wood-fire,  and 
the  room,  with  a  large  party  in  it  invited  to  dinner,  soon  got 
very  close.  "  My  dear,"  suddenly  says  Mr  Commissioner  to 
his  wife,  "  I  am  sure  there  must  be  a  dead  rat  under  the 
flooring.  I  smell  it  distinctly."  I  testified  to  the  fact,  and 
going  in  to  dinner  the  Commissioner  ordered  the  bearer  to 
commence  an  investigation  at  once.  Our  host  took  the 
visitor  in  to  dinner,  and  I  sat  on  the  other  side  of  the  guest  of 
the  evening.  We  had  scarcely  sat  down  to  table  when  Mr 
Commissioner  exclaimed,  "  My  dear,  I  think  there  must  be  at 
least  three  dead  rats  under  the  flooring  here."  And  the 
smell  in  the  close  room  full  of  people  was  prodigious,  Miss 

A alone   accepting   the   position  with    equanimity,   and 

saying  that  her  extensive  travels  had  inured  her  to  even- 
variety  of  odour.     As  she  rose  from  the  table,  at  the  end  of 

dinner,  I  caught  sight  of  one  of  Miss  A 's  shoes,  and  the 

mystery  of  the  dead  rats  was  immediately  revealed.  Delighted 
with  her  new  purchase,  my  unconventional  friend  had  arrayed 


334  AT   GHAZIPORE 

herself  in  the  bazaar-shoes  for  the  banquet,  and  only  those 
who  have  had  experience  of  the  odours  of  badly  cured 
country-leather  can  realise  the  result !  The  smell  is  bad 
enough  in  the  open  air,  but  in  a  close  crowded  room  it  is 
absolutely  deadly.  I  was  able  to  prevent  the  flooring  of  the 
house  being  torn  up  in  the  search  for  the  supposed  offending 

rats,  and  I  attempted  delicately  to  convey  to  Miss  A the 

terrors  of  country  leather.  But  she  was  entirely  sceptical, 
and  attributed  my  view  to  the  prejudice  which  old  Indians 
are  supposed  to  foster  against  everything  Indian.  I  learnt, 
too,  that  not  long  afterwards  there  was  a  dead-rat  scare  at 
Government  House,  and  that  the  engineer  had  had  much 
difficulty  with  the  flooring  there.  As  a  visit  of  my  friend 
to  the  Lieutenant-Governor  coincided  with  the  date  of  the 
epidemic,  I  at  once  realised  the  cause. 

Connected  with  this  bazaar  visit  must  be  related  a  story 
exhibiting  the  resource  and  craft  of  the  Hindu  in  search  of 
rupees  and  of  those  natives  inhabiting  these  markets.  We 
were  examining  the  stock  of  a  seller  of  native  sweetmeats. 
The  itinerant  vendor  carries  these  on  a  large  tray,  and  gen- 
erally is  allowed  to  establish  himself  during  the  heat  of  the 
day  in  a  shady  corner  or  verandah  of  some  rich  man's  house. 
Miss  A was  amazed  at  the  large  number  of  uninviting- 
looking  sweetmeats  that  could  be  purchased  for  the  smallest 
coin,  and  this  reminded  me  of  the  clever  manner  in  which 
this  fact  had  been  put  to  account  by  an  astute  old  banker  to 
tap  valuable  information  to  his  benefit.  It  was  at  a  period  of 
great  excitement  in  the  opium  market.  Constant  complaints 
were  made  to  Government  that  confidential  information 
telegraphed  to  one  of  the  stations  leaked  out.  The  signallers 
were  watched,  but  with  no  success,  and  it  was  not  until  a 
year  afterwards,  when  one  of  these  gentry  quarrelled  with  his 
wife,  that  the  lady  revealed  the  clever  modus  operandi.  The 
pair  were  East  Indians,  and  they  had  a  little  daughter  of 
some  six  years  old.  In  the  bazaar  was  an  astute  old  native 
banker,  who  had  many  irons  in  the  fire,  including  specula- 
tions in  opium.  And  early  news  of  the  market  was  to  him 
of  the  first  importance.     In  the  shade  of  the  building,  close 


SIGNALLING    BY    LOLLIPOPS  335 

to  where  the  old  man  carried  on  his  business  and  balanced 
his  accounts,  would  come  daily  the  itinerant  vendor  of 
sweetmeats,  or  jalabees  as  these  native  delicacies  are  called. 
And  from  time  to  time  the  little  girl,  the  signaller's  daughter, 
would  come  to  make  a  purchase  of  a  few  cheap  sweetmeats. 
The  amiable  old  banker  seemed  to  take  a  good  -  natured 
interest  in  these  modest  purchases,  and  sometimes  even 
generously  contributed  a  halfpenny  towards  future  supplies. 
It  turned  out  that  he  had  arranged  with  the  signaller  a 
clever  system  by  which  the  movements  of  the  opium  market 
were  communicated  to  him.  A  mean  was  fixed — say  of  five 
of  these  jalabees  or  sweetmeats.  If  the  child  bought  five 
pieces  the  market  was  unchanged,  a  purchase  of  three  duly 
showed  that  the  market  had  fallen  two  points,  whilst  a  demand 
for  eight  jalabees  indicated  a  rise  of  so  many  points.  These 
interesting  transactions  went  on  for  months  until  the  plot 
was  revealed  as  above  indicated,  and  banker,  signaller,  and 
child  had  all  grown  fat  on  the  system.  The  honest  merchant 
profited  by  his  early  knowledge  of  the  movements  of  the 
market ;  the  signaller  shared  in  the  profits ;  whilst  the  old 
banker  evinced  so  great  an  interest  in  the  child  that  she 
never  lacked  a  halfpenny  to  come  and  carry  through  her 
daily  investment  in  jalabees,  and  she  waxed  fat  on  the  greasy, 
sugary  condiment. 

But  to  continue  the  march.  Thus  one  day  we  might  be 
encamped  at  a  large  station  like  Agra,  with  a  considerable 
English  society,  near  a  great  native  city,  in  a  highly  culti- 
vated plain ;  the  next  week  would  see  our  camp  in  beautiful 
mountainous  country,  with  the  chance  of  a  tiger  and  the 
certainty  of  much  minor  sport.  At  each  camp  we  were  met 
by  the  leading  opium  cultivators  of  the  neighbourhood,  who 
came  to  talk  over  prospects,  urge  their  grievances,  or  beg 
that  they  might  be  permitted  to  extend  the  cultivation  in 
their  villages.  I  followed  Temple's  excellent  example  of 
being  always  accessible  to  the  people — a  habit  that  had  come 
to  me  naturally,  too,  whilst  Settlement  Officer  in  Chandah  ; 
and  I  had  several  opportunities,  of  which  I  was  not  slow  to 
avail  myself,  of  checking  abuses.     My  wife  and  I  always  kept 


336  AT   GHAZIPORE 

our  eyes  open  on  the  march  for  old  temples  and  ancient  carv- 
ings, and  we  generally  carried  away  sketches  of  anything  of 
interest,  for  photography  had  not  then  reached  every  amateur. 
One  morning  we  had  an  unusual  experience  on  the  road 
between  Cawnpore  and  Fatehgarh.  The  railway  was  then 
being  made  and  the  line  ballasted,  and  we  found  a  con- 
tractor's cart  creaking  along  under  a  heavy  load  of  stone 
fragments  which  had  evidently  come  from  the  ruins  of  an 
old  temple.  Amongst  the  stone,  broken  small  for  ballast,  we 
picked  out  here  a  well-sculptured  hand,  there  the  part  of 
a  head  with  hair  carefully  arranged,  indicating  that  the  ruins 
had  at  one  time  contained  sculptures  of  no  small  merit.  We 
met  later  the  contractor's  assistant,  a  very  intelligent  and 
obliging  young  Scotchman,  who  dined  with  us  that  evening, 
and  volunteered  to  take  us  the  next  morning  to  the  place 
whence  the  stone  was  being  brought.  As  we  supposed,  this 
was  the  ruins  of  an  old  Hindu  temple.  The  Mohamedan 
iconoclast  had  been  at  work  long  years  before,  and  had 
smashed  up  probably  most  of  what  was  of  any  value. 
But  here  and  there  were  to  be  seen  pieces  which,  though 
broken  and  disjointed,  still  had  some  merit.  Our  visit  at 
least  showed  the  desirability  of  some  measures  being  taken 
to  mark  down  antiquarian  remains  of  interest,  and  to  prevent 
these  falling  into  ruin  or  being  destroyed  by  contractors  or 
others,  who  would  naturally  make  a  business  rather  than  an 
artistic  estimate  of  the  question.  With  this  view  I  wrote 
a  paper,  that  was  read  before  the  Asiatic  Society  in  Calcutta, 
on  the  "  Preservation  of  Antiquarian  Remains."  On  a  recent 
visit  home  I  had,  whilst  staying  at  Knebworth  with  Sir 
Mountstuart  Grant  -  Duff,  who  then  rented  the  place,  met 
Sir  John  Lubbock,  now  Lord  Avebury,  and  we  had  discussed 
there  the  desirability  of  precautions  being  taken  in  India  in 
that  direction.  In  my  paper  to  the  Asiatic  Society  I  had 
noticed  the  experience  we  had  had  on  the  road,  as  showing 
the  necessity  of  attention  being  given  to  the  subject.  This 
occurred  in  the  days  of  Lord  Lytton. 


PRESERVATION    OF   ANTIQUARIAN    REMAINS  337 

The  paper,  and  a  resolution  of  the  Asiatic  Society  thereon, 
arrived  in  Simlah,  and  caused  a  commotion  little  anticipated 
by  me.  The  Government  of  India,  rather  unnecessarily  per- 
haps, came  down  heavily  on  the  Government  of  the  N.W.P. 
for  what  were  considered  the  iniquities  of  the  destruction  of 
the  temple  by  the  roadside,  and  called  for  immediate  explana- 
tions. I  may  have  stated  the  case  clumsily,  but  I  had  no 
intention  of  getting  the  contractors  or  the  district  people 
into  trouble,  or  of  holding  that  any  real  crime  had  been 
committed.  What  I  wanted  was  to  have  measures  thought 
out  and  adopted  in  the  future  for  the  preservation  of  all 
remains  of  interest.  The  Local  Government  was  most  in- 
dignant, the  more  especially  as  I  was  not  one  of  its  officers. 
The  Government  Engineer  Department  was  equally  per- 
turbed, as  it  would  be  blamed,  unfair  though  it  was.  The 
contractors  were  furious  at  my  getting  them  into  trouble, 
for  of  course  the  Local  Government  and  the  Engineers  looked 
to  the  contractors  for  explanation.  I  was  asked  by  the  Local 
Government  to  prove  that  nothing  of  real  value  had  been 
destroyed,  which,  considering  that  everything  had  been 
smashed  up  into  small  pieces  for  ballast,  was  not  easy.  I 
did  not  think,  and  do  not  think  now,  that  any  real  damage 
had  been  done,  and  said  so.  But  the  local  people  were 
furious,  and  desired  to  make  out  that  the  whole  story  was 
an  invention  of  my  imagination.  This  I  could  not  allow. 
Fortunately  my  wife  keeps  a  careful  journal,  and  in  this  she 
had  noted  down  at  the  time  the  whole  story — the  meeting 
with  the  contractor's  assistant,  our  visit  to  the  ruined  temple, 
what  we  saw  there,  what  we  collected,  and  so  forth.  A  copy 
of  this  was  submitted  by  me,  and  the  storm  subsided.  But 
orders  were  issued  for  the  inspection  and  protection  of  such 
remains.  The  subject  was  taken  up  on  a  larger  scale  in  the 
time  of  Lord  Curzon,  but  I  did  not  see  any  allusion  to  some 
efforts  made  in  that  direction  by  myself  and  others  in  my 
time,  long  before  Lord  Curzon  thought  of  calling  attention 
to  the  subject. 

Y 


33S 


CHAPTER   XV. 

ON    THE   GANGES   AND   IN   THE   HILLS. 

1877-1885. 

Ad  montem  —  Pachmarhi  —  Mussourie  —  The  Duke  and  Duchess  of 
Connaught — Her  Royal  Highness's  interest  in  everything  Indian — 
Story  of  the  book  at  Quaritch's — Value  of  the  scientific  collection  at 
Bagshot— An  enterprising  little  German  boy — Field-Marshal  Count 
von  Moltke  —  Interest  of  the  Prince-General  in  his  command — 
H.R.H.'s  happy  manner  with  the  native  officers  —  Our  visit  to 
T.R.H.  at  Meerut  and  later  at  Bagshot — The  American  General, 
Lionel  Wood,  on  the  Royal  General  and  his  knowledge — Pleasant 
days  on  the  Naini-Tal  hilltop — Mai-trank  on  the  mountain-side — 
My  camp  clerk  on  the  hills — Sir  Seymour  FitzGerald  on  terrors  of 
the  Indian  climate — Neues  Palais  at  Potsdam — Am  sent  by  the 
German  Crown  Prince  to  his  surgeon,  who  orders  a  Carlsbad 
cure  —  Functions  in  India  in  my  time  —  Visit  of  the  Prince  of 
Wales — Badmashes  invited  to  garden-party  in  the  jail — My  Bom- 
bay University  gown — Effect  at  the  levee — Political  uniform — My 
bearer's  mistaken  views  regarding  breeches — The  Imperial  assem- 
blage at  Delhi  in  1877  —  Additional  Private  Secretary  to  Lord 
Lytton — His  amiable  considerate  character — Increase  of  salutes  to 
native  princes  —  A  Jemadar  improves  the  occasion  —  A  soldier's 
view  of  the  herald — The  Delhi  medal — Sir  Ashley  Eden's  reading 
of  the  legend — The  grand  manoeuvres  at  Delhi,  1888 — Command 
there  the  Volunteer  Brigade — Substitute  for  white  helmets — Durzis 
invited  to  an  evening  party — Torrential  rain  at  Review — My  wife's 
arrangements  for  drying  the  uniforms  of  the  corps — Eminent  success 
— American  officers  at  the  manoeuvres — Their  cheery  humour — 
Great  durbar  to  the  Ameer  at  Rawul-Pindi — Am  appointed  Honorary 
Aide-de-Camp  to  Sir  Donald  Stewart,  Commander-in-Chief — Rain, 
rain  !  —  Difficulties  with  uniform — Visit  of  T.R.H.  the  Duke  and 
Duchess  of  Connaught — My  mixed  uniform  exposed. 

IT  must  now  be  understood  that  the  cold -weather  with  its 
pleasures  of  camp  has  come  to  an  end,  and  has  been  succeeded 


AD   MONTEM  339 

by  the  hot  winds  and  scorching  days  of  an  Indian  summer. 
Now  was  the  time  when  the  more  fortunate  officers  of  Govern- 
ment could  get  away  to  the  "  Hills,"  as  the  Himalayas  are 
called,  and  where  a  cool  climate  at  a  height  of  from  6000  to 
8000  feet  can  be  enjoyed.  The  work  of  my  Department  per- 
mitted of  my  taking  with  me  my  Private  Secretary  and  a  part 
of  my  office  to  the  mountains,  and  there  carrying  on  the  current 
work.  And  I  was  not  slow  to  encourage  the  officers  under  me 
to  take  a  holiday  in  the  cool  when  their  work  would  permit 
it.  No  advantage  was  to  be  gained  by  keeping  men  grumbling 
and  idle  in  the  heat,  when  a  spell  in  the  hills  would  set  them 
up,  and  send  them  back  with  vigour  renewed  to  their  labours 
in  the  plains.  And  they  all  appreciated  my  views  in  this 
respect. 

One  had  a  fairly  large  choice  of  hill-stations.  Some  twenty 
miles  off  the  railway  line  beyond  Jubbulpore  was  Pachmarhi, 
on  the  Sauthpoorah  range,  a  sanatorium  the  site  of  which 
had  been  chosen  by  Temple  when  I  was  with  him  years 
before  as  Secretary.  It  had  now  developed  into  a  summer 
headquarters  for  the  Government  of  the  Central  Provinces 
and  its  officers.  It  had  not,  however,  the  advantage  of  the 
height  of  the  Himalaya  stations,  so,  after  one  trial,  we  decided 
in  favour  of  Mussourie.  This  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  best 
established  of  the  hill  -  stations,  possesses  every  advantage 
of  climate  and  scenery,  and  is  in  the  Upper  Provinces. 
Simlah,  besides  being  too  far  removed,  was  not  included  in 
my  beat,  and  I  could  not  well  have  shown  myself  regularly 
there.  It  was  during  the  hot  season  passed  at  Mussourie  in 
1 084  that  we  had  the  good  fortune  to  become  known  to 
T.R.H.  the  Duke  and  Duchess  of  Connaught,  who  passed 
the  hot  weather  there,  the  Duke  being  then  the  General  in 
command  of  the  Meerut  Division.  I  had  known,  whilst  a 
boy  at  Bonn,  the  uncle  of  Her  Royal  Highness,  the  reigning 
Duke  of  Anhalt,  and  he  had  always  allowed  me  to  keep  up 
a  correspondence  with  him.  Moreover,  from  my  bringing-up, 
I  was  fairly  acquainted  with  much  that  was  German,  besides 
being  devoted  to  my  old  memories  of  happy  days  at  Bonn. 


340  ON    THE    GANGES   AND    IN    THE    HILLS 

Her  Royal  Highness  was  one  of  the  most  accomplished  and 
highly  educated  of  the  German  Princesses,  and  the  perfection 
to  which  education  is  carried  in  Germany  is  well  known.     We 
soon  discovered  that  the  Duke  and  Duchess,  having  determined 
to  come  out  to  India,  had  no  intention  of  confining  themselves 
to  military  duties,  garden-parties,  and  other  functions.     They 
both  took  a  most  intelligent  interest  in  everything  connected 
with  the  people  and  the  country,  and  set  themselves  to  work 
in  real  earnest  to  increase  their  knowledge.      Both   my  wife 
and  I  had   given   some  attention  to   Indian  subjects  outside 
official  and  society  limits.     My  wife's  collection  of  the  orna- 
ments  of  native  women  has  already  been   mentioned.      Our 
bazaar  expeditions  had  added  greatly  to  our  knowledge,  and 
by  degrees  we  had  collected  a  useful  library  on  Indian  topics — 
antiquarian  and  artistic.      It  thus  came  to  pass  that  my  wife 
was  able  to  assist  the  Duchess  in  the  many  matters  in  which 
H.R.H.  became  interested,  and  regarding  which  she  soon  de- 
veloped   a    knowledge    and    appreciation    that    were    highly 
encouraging  to  her  advisers.     The  Duke,  too,  assisted,  though 
his  tastes  did   not  run   so   much   in   the  direction  of  artistic 
collections,  but  more  in  respect  to  information  regarding  the 
castes,  tribes,  and  specialities  of  the  native  troops  under  his 
command.     They   both   set   themselves    steadily   to  work   to 
learn  the  language.     H.R.H.   passed   the  higher  standard  in 
Hindustani  in  due  course.     The  Duchess,  it  was  understood, 
worked  with  him,  and  the  munshi  declared  that   Her  Royal 
Highness,  if  she  had  gone  up  to  the  examination,  would  have 
passed  as  creditably  as  did  the  Royal   General.     From  that 
date,   and  under  these  pleasant  circumstances,  commenced  a 
friendship  which  their  Royal  Highnesses  have  allowed  us  to 
continue   without   intermission    even    unto   the   present  time. 
They  favoured  us  by  inviting  us  to  dine  with  them  regularly 
on    Sunday  evenings,  when    Lord   and    Lady  Downe   would 
alone  be  present.     And  later  we  were  to  enjoy  their  delightful 
hospitality  staying  with  them  at  Meerut,  and  at  their  beautiful 
English   home   at    Bagshot.      On    our   visit    to    their   Royal 
Highnesses  at  Meerut,  I  well  remember  how  their  "oak  was 


H.R.H.    THE    DUCHESS    OF   CONNAUGHT  341 

sported,"  as  one  says  at  college,  during  the  hours  they  were 
working  at  Hindustani,  and  nothing  was  allowed  to  interfere 
with  the  lesson.  Our  library  -  book  contains  a  very  large 
number  of  entries  in  the  handwriting  of  Her  Royal  Highness, 
showing  how  much  she  read  and  what  she  read,  and  all  the 
very  best  books  on  Indian  history,  religions,  and  antiquities 
will  be  found  on  the  list.  Then,  and  later,  we  sometimes  ac- 
companied the  Duchess  on  her  bazaar  expeditions.  Everything 
purchased  was  carefully  labelled,  and  all  information  that  could 
be  gleaned  connected  with  it  was  equally  carefully  entered 
in  a  register.  The  result  is  that  the  excellent  collection  made 
by  H.R.H.  in  India,  when  we  saw  it  later  arranged  in  one  of 
the  galleries  at  Bagshot,  is  not  a  mere  mass  of  Indian  articles, 
piled  together  for  artistic  effect,  but  is  a  scientific  collection 
with  a  valuable  catalogue,  worthy  of  a  learned  Herr  Professor 
in  a  German  museum. 

And  here  must  be  interpolated  a  story  of  the  rather  long- 
ago,  illustrating  H.R.H.'s  desire  for  information  on  Indian 
subjects.  I  do  not  vouch  for  the  truth  of  the  tale,  but  it  is 
eminently  characteristic  and  worthy  of  relation.  If  I  am 
considered  indictable  for  high  treason  for  publishing  it,  I 
am  relieved  to  think  that  here,  in  Switzerland,  the  Govern- 
ment do  not  permit  extradition  for  political  offences,  and  that 
any  attempt  to  secure  me  for  capital  execution  will  probably 
fail.  One  morning  Her  Royal  Highness  went  into  old  Bernard 
Quaritch's  shop  in  Piccadilly  and  took  up  a  book  on  the 
antiquities  and  natural  history  of  Southern  India, —  a  big 
illustrated  work  in  several  volumes.  She  asked  the  assistant 
in  charge  the  price,  and  he,  not  finding  it  marked,  stopped  old 
Ouaritch,  who  was  passing  through  the  shop,  and  inquired  what 
price  he  was  to  say  ?  Quaint  old  Quaritch,  looking  at  the 
Duchess  in  his  queer  way,  said,  "  Do  you  want  this  book  ? " 
H.R.H.  replied  in  her  pretty  English  that  "  I  do  want  this 
book."  Says  he,  "  I  don't  understand  what  a  girl  like  you  can 
want  with  such  a  book  ?  But  you  are  a  German  girl,  are  you 
not?"  The  Duchess  said  she  was  German.  "Well,"  said  old 
Q.,  "  I  like  to  see  a   German  girl  take   an   interest  in    such 


342  ON   THE    GANGES   AND    IN   THE    HILLS 

subjects  ;  the  price  is  three  guineas,  but  you  shall  have  it  for 
two."  "  Thank  you,  I  will  take  it,"  said  H.R.H.  "  But,"  said 
Quaritch,  "  it  is  too  heavy  for  you  to  carry,  and  I  will  send  it 
for  you,  if  you  don't  live  too  far  out  in  the  suburbs." 

Lady  B.,  who  was  in  waiting,  and  had  been  in  another  part 
of  the  shop,  then  came  up  and  wrote  down  the  Duchess's 
address  at  Buckingham  Palace.  Quaritch  was  taken  somewhat 
aback,  and  begged  Her  Royal  Highness  to  excuse  him.  "  Oh, 
certainly,"  said  the  Duchess,  "but  I  will  have  it  for  two 
guineas."     And  she  triumphed,  and  carried  off  the  book ! 

Here  is  another  story  from  my  notebook  of  the  same 
period  : — 

Many  years  ago  at  Mussourie,  when  the  ex -Ameer  was 
a  political  prisoner  there,  Colonel  Sir  Edward  Durand,  my 
wife's  brother,  was  the  officer  in  charge  of  him.  The  letters 
addressed  to  the  ex-Ameer  had  to  be  opened  and  scrutinised, 
and  one  morning  my  brother-in-law  found  a  curious  one, 
running  as  follows  : — 

"Your  Majesty, — 

"  I  am  a  little  German  boy,  and  I  collect  stamps.  I 
beg  your  Majesty  to  send  me  some  stamps  from  your  kingdom 
for  my  collection." 

Sir  Edward  Durand  good-naturedly  wrote  to  the  small  boy, 
explaining  the  position  and  sending  some  stamps.  A  month 
or  so  later  arrived  a  grateful  letter  from  the  small  boy  ex- 
pressing his  gratitude.  He  enclosed  in  the  letter  a  photograph, 
and  wrote  :  "  When  your  letter  arrived,  there  was  staying  at 
our  house  an  old  German  officer  to  whom  my  father  showed 
your  letter.  He  was  so  pleased  at  the  kindness  of  a  British 
officer  to  a  little  German  boy  that  he  gave  me  this  photograph, 
and  wrote  his  name  on  it,  and  told  me  to  send  it  to  you  with 
his  compliments,  which  I  now  do."  The  photograph  bore  the 
signature,  "von  Moltke,  Field- Marshal."  The  great  soldier 
had  been  staying  with  the  boy's  father  during  the  manoeuvres. 
Sir    Edward    Durand    had    left    Mussourie   for   the   Frontier 


H.R.H.   THE   DUKE   OF   CONNAUGHT  343 

Boundary  Commission,  but  sent  the  letter  for  me  to  see.  I 
took  it  with  me  on  Sunday  evening,  when  we  were  dining  with 
T.R.H.,  and  showed  it  to  the  Duchess.  She  recognised  the 
name  as  that  of  a  great  manufacturer  near  where  the  man- 
oeuvres had  been  held,  and  remarked,  "A  very  enterprising 
little  German  boy — he  will  probably  succeed  in  life." 

The  Royal  General  was  greatly  interested  in  all  connected 
with  the  native  troops  in  the  division.  He  had  the  happiest 
of  manners  with  the  native  officers  and  men,  and  although 
always  dignified,  he  was  never  stiff  and  discouraging,  like 
some  of  much  lesser  degree.  I  had  experience  of  this  when 
we  were  staying  with  T.R.H.  at  Meerut.  The  sitting-room 
assigned  to  me  was  next  door  to  the  Duke's  study.  The 
native  cavalry  regiment,  in  which  served  one  of  my  kin,1  and 
some  of  the  native  officers  of  which  were  well  known  to  me, 
was  marching  through  Meerut,  and  three  of  these  officers 
came  over  on  the  morning  of  their  arrival  to  pay  me  a  visit. 
His  Royal  Highness  heard  them,  and  came  into  the  room. 
He  was  in  mufti,  and  the  native  officers  had  never  seen  him, 
and  not  unnaturally  supposed  that  a  Prince,  a  "  Shah-Zadah," 
would  be  garbed  in  cloth-of-gold  and  diamonds,  and  attended 
by  at  least  eight  chobdars,  or  mace-bearers.  When  they  found 
out  that  they  were  in  the  presence  of  the  son  of  the  "  Great 
Queen  -  Empress  Bahadur "  their  astonishment  and  delight 
were  extreme.  After  they  had  presented  the  hilts  of  their 
swords  to  be  touched,  and  made  the  most  profound  obeis- 
ances, the  Duke  talked  to  them  in  Hindustani  in  a  perfectly 
quiet,  unaffected  manner  about  their  homes  and  tribes,  the 
regiment,  their  war  service,  and  then  inspected  and  recognised 
their  decorations,  complimenting  them  thereon.  My  visitors 
went  away  in  the  highest  state  of  delight  and  gratitude  to 
me  for  having  secured  for  them  so  high  an  honour  of  what, 
they  were  not  slow  to  represent,  had  been  a  private  audience 
with  the  Shah-Zadah-General  Bahadur ! 

The  interest  taken  by  H.R.H.  in  the  duties  of  his  Indian 

1  Now   Brigadier  -  General    Ernest    Rivett  -  Carnac,    commanding    the    Umballa 
Cavalry  Brigade. 


344  0N    THE    GANGES   AND    IN   THE    HILLS 

command  was  well  known,  and  was  the  talk  of  the  whole 
service.  He  never  spared  himself,  and  left  no  detail  unnoticed. 
Functions  and  other  duties  which  do  not  enter  the  programme 
of  ordinary  Generals  were  never  allowed  to  interfere  in  the 
work  of  the  division,  and,  save  on  certain  necessary  occasions, 
the  Prince  was  entirely  sunk  in  the  General.  All  who  were 
brought  into  contact  with  H.R.H.  appreciated  his  camaraderie, 
and  good  feeling  and  real  interest  in  India.  He  never  ac- 
cepted more  than  that  to  which  his  steady  work  and  military 
knowledge  gave  him  a  fair  claim.  For  years  he  wore  the 
cross  of  the  third  class  only  of  the  Bath,  whilst  others  who 
had  not  done  more  service  had  been  promoted  to  the  higher 
grade,  and  which  he  himself  could  have  reached  if  he  had 
stated  his  claim.  Recently  I  had  staying  with  me  here  in 
Switzerland  a  man  of  whose  friendship  I  shall  always  feel 
proud,  General  Lionel  Wood,  of  the  Army  of  the  United 
States,  one  of  America's  most  distinguished  officers  and 
citizens,  and  whose  opinion  is  deservedly  held  in  the  highest 
esteem  in  the  military  world.  He  had  then  just  returned 
from  the  German  manoeuvres,  which  he  had  attended  under 
special  invitation  from  the  German  Emperor.  General  Wood 
told  me — and  I  think  that  his  remarks  may  without  indis- 
cretion be  included  here — that  recently,  in  the  Mediterranean, 
he  had  twice  had  the  advantage  of  meeting  the  Duke  of 
Connaught,  and  seeing  portions  of  His  Royal  Highness's 
command.  And  he  expressed  himself  as  quite  delighted 
with  the  Duke's  keen  interest  in  military  matters,  and  his  per- 
fect knowledge  of  all  detail.  And  the  General  added,  smiling, 
"  You  know  this  is  not  quite  the  popularly  accepted  idea  in 
the  world  of  what  Royalties  are.  They  are  often  classed 
among  the  figure-heads.  But  there  is  nothing  of  that  about 
that  Royal  General  of  yours.  I  think  he  could  allow  many 
of  us  points  in  matters  of  military  detail." 

Later,  when  the  railway  -  line  was  opened  to  the  foot  of 
the  hill,  I  moved  my  summer  headquarters  to  Naini-Tal, 
where  I  had  a  beautiful  house,  a  thousand  feet  above  the 
lake,  and  where   I  spent  every  following  hot  season   until   I 


NAINI-TAL  345 

left  India  in  1894.  Not  only  Naini-Tal  itself,  but  the  country 
all  around  it,  the  Kumaon  Province,  in  which  reigned  General 
Sir  Henry  Ramsay,  is  as  beautiful  as  any  part  of  India.  And 
no  small  portion  of  the  enjoyment  in  the  hill-visit  was  the  trip 
at  the  end  of  the  season  into  the  "  interior,"  the  mountainous 
region  beyond  the  station  of  Naini  -  Tal,  bounded  on  the 
north  by  the  Nanda-Devi  range,  which  was  believed  at  one 
time  to  possess  the  highest  peak  in  the  world,  until  more 
recent  surveys  established  the  superiority  of  Mount  Everest. 
Naini-Tal  is  the  summer  headquarters  of  the  Lieutenant- 
Governor  of  the  United  Provinces,  and  also  of  the  General 
Commanding  -  in  -  Chief  of  the  Bengal  Army.  So  besides 
natural  beauties,  the  visitor  finds  sufficient  to  interest  him 
in  society  claims,  if  that  is  in  his  line.  And  the  season  there 
is  always  gay  and  enjoyable.  The  delights  of  our  Hima- 
layan residence  are  deeply  graven  on  the  recollections  of 
my  wife  and  myself.  Being  on  the  crest  of  one  of  the 
mountains  overlooking  the  lake,  we  had  a  full  view  to  the 
north  of  the  valleys  and  mountain-ranges  of  nearer  Kumaon, 
bounded  by  the  higher  peaks  of  the  eternal  snows,  from 
which  the  Himalayas  take  their  name.  And  surrounding  the 
house  were  extensive  grounds,  with  bosquets  on  the  hillside 
giving  grateful  shade  and  the  most  glorious  peeps  of  the 
landscape,  with  occasional  shady  slopes,  on  one  of  which 
we  once  gave  a  most  successful  German  party,  —  German 
music,  "  Mai-trank,"  or  "  Erdbeern-bole,"  with  strawberries  and 
"  Waldmeister "  complete,  and  some  ladies  in  costume  who 
obligingly  acted  as  Kellnerins.  It  was  all  most  enjoyable, 
was  in  sight  of  the  snows,  and  had  an  entirely  foreign 
flavour — a  pleasant  change  in  India.  But  then,  in  those  days, 
there  was  not  much  talk  about  the  necessity  of  eight  more 
Dreadnoughts. 

The  occasional  comic  excursions  of  my  excellent  native 
clerk  (already  introduced  at  page  291)  into  the  mysteries  of 
the  English  language  brought  us  from  time  to  time  some 
amusement.  I  am  conscious  that  one  probably  makes  oneself 
the   most   terrifying   mistakes    in   writing   foreign    languages, 


34^  ON    THE    GANGES   AND    IN   THE    HILLS 

and  that  one  thus  affords  ample  material  for  amusement. 
And  one  yields  this  with  pleasure.  It  is  allowable,  then,  to 
have  one's  own  little  laugh  at  a  native  brother.  They  occa- 
sionally put  things  so  monstrously  funnily.  The  blunders 
are  quite  natural.  Nothing  artificially  made  would  be  a 
hundredth  part  so  successful.  "  A  nice  place  this  Naini-Tal," 
says  I  to  Mr  Romany,  who,  being  "timid"  with  a  pony,  has 
come  panting  up  the  hill."  "Yes,  your  Honour,  a  nice  place. 
But  the  hill  is  too  is-sloping."  In  such  a  way,  ordinarily, 
does  the  native  pronounce  the  sibilant.  Then  outside  the 
door  I  find  a  boy  with  a  pony,  in  his  hand  a  letter,  which 
he  forces  forward.  I  read  on  it  "  Sent  herewith "  in  red 
ink  across  the  top.  And  the  text  runs :  "  Please  send  at 
once  one  tame  pony,  at  a  monthly  rent,  for  the  use  of  Mr 

K ,  Personal  Assistant  to  the  Opium  Agent."     And  the 

accompanying  pony  certainly  looked  sufficiently  "tame."1 

And  so  the  years,  and  a  good  many  of  them  too,  passed 
pleasantly  by  us.  The  summer  in  the  hills  and  then  camp, 
and  then  a  further  spell  below  until  it  became  really  hot. 
One  hears  occasionally  of  the  horrors  of  the  Indian  climate. 
And  doubtless  in  some  places,  and  in  many  conditions,  it  is 
terrible.  But  those  who  can  spend  a  portion  of  the  year  in  the 
mountains,  and  then  return  to  the  plains  for  the  cold  season, 
either  to  march  about  or  for  all  the  gaieties  of  Calcutta  or 
some  large  station,  have  little  to  complain  of, — indeed  have, 
perhaps,  about  the  most  enjoyable  climate  in  the  world.  I 
remember  being  with  Sir  Seymour  Fitz-Gerald  when  he  was 
at  Mahbleshwar  as  Governor  of  Bombay,  and  his  laughingly 
relating  how  an  old  fellow,  muffled  up  with  a  respirator,  met 
him  coming  out  of  the  club,  and  said,  amid  the  drizzle  and 
fog  of  a  London  February  afternoon,  "  So  you're  going  to 
India  ?  Oh,  that  awful  climate !  Sorry  for  you."  But  H.E. 
did  not  find  himself  to  be  pitied  enjoying  the  mountain  air. 

1  Here  my  two  best  stories  have  gone  out  before  the  merciless  blue  pencil.  A 
jury  of  matrons  long  ago  pronounced  them  quite  fit  for  publication.  But  my  best 
critic  very  properly  does  not  wish  my  book  to  include  anything  even  the  least 
risque.     And  she  is  right. 


A   CARLSBAD   CURE  347 

There  was  no  monotony  in  the  life.  My  beat  was  so 
extensive  that  I  never  marched  over  the  same  ground  two 
years  running.  And  then  Europe  claimed  one  from  time  to 
time.  One  year  when  I  was  at  the  Neues  Palais  at  Potsdam 
with  the  then  Crown  Prince  of  Germany — the  Prince  Frederick 
of  Prussia  of  my  Bonn  days — he  sent  me  to  Director-General 
Weber,  who  had  been  his  body -surgeon  through  the  war, 
and  that  authority  ordered  me  off  to  Carlsbad  to  make  a 
"cure."  And  after  a  successful  cure  there,  my  wife  and  I 
returned  to  the  place  again  from  time  to  time.  Then  I  had 
early  in  my  Ghazipore  days  taken  to  the  Volunteers,  of  which 
I  shall  have  more  to  say  in  a  later  chapter.  At  all  seasons, 
but  especially  in  the  cold  season,  the  several  corps  of  Light 
Horse  and  Rifles  which  I  raised  and  commanded  gave  me 
plenty  of  occupation.  Then  from  time  to  time  there  were 
great  functions  in  the  country,  to  which  we  were  bidden,  and 
hardly  a  year  passed  without  Viceregal  visits  or  Royal  visits 
to  Benares  or  other  places  in  my  Volunteer  command, 
requiring  cavalry  escorts,  guards  of  honour,  and  the  like.  To 
record  all  those  chronologically  would  be  too  tedious  for  my 
readers  and  myself.  But  some  of  these  greater  functions  of 
my  time  demand  special  notice. 

The  visit  of  H.R.H.  the  Prince  of  Wales  took  place  just 
after  I  had  joined  my  appointment  at  Ghazipore,  and  we  were 
bidden,  my  wife  and  I,  to  Calcutta,  and  shared  in  most  of 
the  gaiety  there.  I  must  here  relate  how  my  vanity  betrayed 
me  into  adopting  a  costume  at  the  levee  which  was  more 
complicated,  perhaps,  than  exact  according  to  rule. 

And  I  must  also  record,  in  the  hope  of  horrifying  some 
members  of  the  present  House  of  Commons,  what  was  actually 
most  utterly  illegally  done  by  one  of  those  wicked  Indian 
Magistrates  of  the  long-ago,  during  the  visit  of  the  Prince  of 
Wales  to  one  of  the  large  stations  near  to  a  great  native  city. 
There  were  a  number  of  scoundrels  hanging  about  the  place, 
natives,  or  Indians  as  I  see  we  are  now  expected  to  call 
them.  The  safety  of  H.R.H.  must  be  ensured  at  any  cost. 
Into  the  jail  with  them  all,  said  one.     "  But  there  is  nothing 


3|8  ON    THE    GANGES   AND    IN    THE    HILLS 

against  them,  and  it  would  be  utterly  illegal,"  says  the  Magis- 
trate. Says  a  mild-looking  young  lady,  "  Father,  why  not  ask 
them  all  to  a  garden-party,  and  have  native  musicians  and 
all  that  sort  of  thing,  and  amuse  and  pleasure  them  for  a 
time?"  And  so  it  came  about,  and  these  Indian  scoundrels 
all  gladly  accepted  the  polite  invitation.  The  only  sufficiently 
roomy  and  convenient  place  for  the  festivity  happened  to  be 
the  jail.  So  there  the  garden-party  was  held,  and  there  were 
these  gentry  occupied  and  entertained  until  the  Prince  had 
passed  through  the  station.  Nowadays  it  would  require  a 
very  confident  Magistrate  to  issue  such  invitations. 

But  here  is  the  truthful  history  of  my  beautiful  college 
gown. 

One  of  my  pet  vanities  as  a  young  man  was  this  very 
becoming  costume,  in  which  I  was  entitled  to  array  myself 
as  a  Fellow  of  the  University  of  Bombay.  This  honour 
had  been  secured  for  me  by  my  dear  old  friend,  Dr  James 
Wilson,  the  distinguished  missionary,  who  had  me  added 
to  the  Senate  immediately  he  was  appointed  Vice-Chancellor. 

The  costume  includes  a  gown  and  scarf  of  violet  silk 
trimmed  with  gold,  all  set  off  by  a  trencher  hat  of  black 
velvet  with  a  heavy  gold  tassel.1  There  were  but  few  oppor- 
tunities of  gratifying  my  vanity  and  appearing  in  this  garb. 
However,  in  1876  I  happened  to  be  staying  at  Government 
House,  Belvedere,  Calcutta,  during  the  visit  of  H.R.H.  the 
Prince  of  Wales  to  India.  Another  guest  in  the  house  was 
Sir  Monier  Williams,  under  whom  I  sat  when  he  was  Sanscrit 
professor  at  Haileybury.  He  had  recently  received  his  red 
doctor's  gown  at  Oxford,  and  when  the  Prince's  levee  was 
announced  Sir  Monier  proposed  that  we  should  both  wear 
our  gowns  and  go  together  to  the  function  arrayed  in  our 
becoming  finery.  I,  of  course,  was  nothing  loth  to  have 
such  an  opportunity  of  gratifying  my  vanity,  and  on  the 
appointed  day  we  duly  appeared  before  the  Presence  at  the 
largest  levee   India  is  ever  likely  to  see.     I  had  put  on  my 

1  Akin,  I  believe,  to  that  of  the  "Sweet  Girl  Graduate  with  Golden  Hair"  of 
Tennyson's  "Princess." 


THE    BOMBAY    UNIVERSITY   GOWN  349 

gown  over  my  uniform,  having  in  mind  the  precedent  of 
a  distinguished  personage.  But  now,  in  my  advanced  years, 
I  do  not  fail  to  recognise  the  incongruity  of  the  attire.  As 
I  passed  the  Presence  methought  I  heard  a  not  unnatural 
exclamation  of  astonishment,  and  an  inquiry,  "  What  in  the 
name  of  fortune  is  that  ? "  Temple,  who  was  in  attendance, 
being  then  Governor  of  Bengal,  thinking  to  exhibit  his  uni- 
versal knowledge,  but  being  near-sighted,  explained,  "That, 
your  Royal  Highness,  is,  I  think,  some  Freemason's  costume." 
But  His  Royal  Highness,  who  had  full  knowledge  of  the 
vestment  of  the  craft,  was  unable  to  accept  this  explanation 
as  conclusive.  Luckily  Sir  Bartle  Frere  also  was  present, 
and  he  promptly  recognised  me  and  my  frock  and  explained, 
"That,  your  Royal  Highness,  is  the  gown  of  a  Fellow  of 
the  University  of  Bombay."  That  gown  is  still  preserved 
by  me,  and  is  still  ever  a  delight,  not  only  to  me  but  to 
certain  specially  good-looking  lady  friends,  who  "look  the 
part "  and  who  go  in  it  to  fancy  balls  as  "  Portia  "  or  "  Doctors 
of  Music,"  as  fits  their  fancy. 

It  is  perhaps  desirable  to  mention,  in  conclusion,  with  a  view 
to  contradicting  it  authoritatively,  an  ill-natured  report  that 
was  current  in  Calcutta  immediately  after  the  levee.  It  was 
asserted  that  when,  panoplied  in  all  my  splendour,  I  emerged 
after  the  ceremony  on  to  the  platform  in  front  of  Government 
House  the  guard  of  honour  presented  arms,  under  the  impres- 
sion that  I  was  the  Begum  of  Bhopal.  But  this  story  was 
nothing  but  an  impure  invention,  and  will  be  recognised  as 
the  outcome  of  the  jealousy,  disappointment,  and  malice  of 
those  who  were  unable  to  array  themselves  in  the  fine  feathers 
which  they  naturally  so  very  much  envied  ! 

The  Prince's  visit  was  a  period  of  full  uniform.  The 
political  uniform  in  India  which  I  wore  before  I  was  ap- 
pointed an  Aide-de-Camp  to  H.M.,  like  the  diplomatic  and 
other  uniforms,  includes  breeches  and  stockings  in  full-dress. 
But  the  breeches  and  stockings  are  seldom  worn,  and  on  all 
occasions  my  bearer  had  been  accustomed  to  see  me  arrayed 
in   a  magnificent    pair   of  blue    trousers    with    a   broad    gold 


350  ON    THE    GANGES   AND    IN    THE    HILLS 

stripe  as  nether  garbs.  These  most  probably,  with  all  their 
gold,  he  would  have  voted  much  more  full-dress  than  the  plain 
cashmere  breeches  and  stockings  worn  at  drawing-rooms  and 
the  like.  At  last,  in  Calcutta,  during  H.R.H.'s  visit,  came 
a  State  function  at  which,  for  the  first  time  in  his  experience, 
this  breeches  garb  had  to  be  donned  by  me.  Arrayed  in 
my  splendour  I  went  into  the  drawing-room  of  the  house 
in  which  we  were  staying,  and  where  the  whole  party  was 
assembled  waiting  for  the  carriages.  Suddenly  my  bearer 
rushed  after  me  into  the  room,  bearing  in  his  hands  the 
splendid  blue  trousers  with  the  gold  stripe,  and  announced 
before  the  whole  company,  "  Lord  of  the  World,  you  have 
forgotten  your  trousers!"  Worthy  soul,  he  considered  those 
trousers  far  too  splendid  to  be  left  behind,  and  was  quite 
under  the  impression  that  the  despised  breeches  were  as 
drawers  or  under  -  garments,  not  to  be  exposed  to  public 
gaze,  and  that  the  grand  trousers  were  intended  to  cover 
them. 

I  drew  a  picture  of  this  true  incident  for  the  Indian  '  Punch,' 
in  which  it  will  be  found  published. 

Another  of  the  great  functions  in  which  I  assisted  during 
my  Indian  service  was  perhaps  the  biggest  of  its  kind,  the 
Imperial  Proclamation  Durbar,  held  by  Lord  Lytton  at 
Delhi  on  1st  January  1877,  when  the  Queen  was  proclaimed 
Empress  of  India  before  all  the  great  Princes  and  dignitaries 
of  the  country  there  assembled.  Thanks  to  the  aid  of  my 
good  friend  Owen  Burne,  I  was  appointed  by  Lord  Lytton 
as  an  additional  Private  Secretary  for  the  occasion,  and,  like 
all  on  the  staff,  had  my  hands  pretty  full  whilst  the  functions 
lasted.  I  had  then  full  opportunity  of  realising  how  con- 
siderate and  amiable  was  the  Viceroy,  whom  I  had  known 
as  the  gold -capped  young  man  at  Bonn  in  former  years. 
He  was  very  unlike  Lord  Mayo  in  most  respects,  but 
resembled  him  in  this,  that  he  was  most  courteous  and  con- 
siderate to  all  those  about  him,  and  thus  could  command 
much  willing  service.  To  me  personally,  then  and  thereafter, 
he   was   always   the    most   obliging   of   masters   and    friends. 


THE    IMPERIAL   ASSEMBLAGE  351 

And  though  he  had  some  peculiarities  he  certainly  knew 
how  to  attach  men  to  him.  At  Delhi  the  Viceroy  had  to 
receive  the  visits  of  many  native  Princes  and  Chiefs,  and  to 
keep  up  for  a  short  time  a  conversation  with  them.  For  this 
purpose  it  was  part  of  my  duty,  as  one  man  left  the  tent 
and  a  new  visitor  was  announced,  to  hand  to  Lord  Lytton 
a  small  folded  printed  note,  a  sort  of  crib,  giving  information 
regarding  the  visitor,  and  suggesting  topics  of  conversation. 
These  Lord  Lytton  handed  back  to  me  when  done  with.  A 
specimen  is  reproduced  here. 


Name  and  Title  of  Chief. 

HIS   HIGHNESS   R S ,    MAHARAjA   OF   R- 


Statisties.  Materials  for  the  Address — 

Area.         .         .     15,000  square  miles.  Maharaja  Sahib.     To  receive  a  banner 

Population         .  and  medal,  and  be  informed  that 

Revenue    .         .     ^250,000.  his    salute   of    17   guns    is    to   be 

increased  for  life  to  19  guns. 
Topics  of  Conversation. 

1.  State  is  under  the  management  of  a 

Political  Agent. 

2.  The  Chief  is  a  great  scholar  ;   also 

fond  of  sport. 

3.  His  State  is  rich  in  forests  and  min- 

eral wealth. 

4.  Has    fine   palaces,    and    is   fond   of 

splendour. 

5.  Has  a  choice  collection  of  rifles. 


It  will  be  noticed  that  on  this  occasion  the  Viceroy  announced 
to  the  Maharajah  what  is  dear  to  the  heart  of  every  native 
Chief,  that  his  salute  had  been  increased.  No  announcement, 
under  ordinary  circumstances,  would  be  more  acceptable  and 
valuable.  But  the  gilt  was,  so  to  speak,  much  taken  off  the 
gingerbread  when  the  Chief  found  that  he  alone  had  not 
been  favoured,  as  he  may  have  hoped,  but  that  there  had 
been  an  increase  in  the  number  of  guns  of  the  salutes  all 


352  ON    THE    GANGES   AND    IN    THE    HILLS 

round,  and  that  therefore  to  him  there  was  no  advantage 
over  his  fellows,  which  would  have  made  the  increase  of  real 
value  and  delight. 

Connected  with  these  increases  in  salutes  there  occurred 
the  following  incident,  which  will  at  least  help  to  illustrate 
the  astuteness  of  the  native  retainer,  and  the  danger  of  assum- 
ing that  he  is  ignorant  of  the  English  language. 

For  months  prior  to  the  Proclamation,  the  question  of  the 
rewards  to  native  chiefs,  to  be  announced  on  the  occasion, 
had  been  under  the  consideration  of  the  Viceroy.  The  sub- 
ject was  confidential,  and  did  not  go  through  the  offices,  but 
was  discussed  in  demi-official  letters  that  passed  between 
the  Private  Secretary  to  the  Viceroy  and  the  Agents  to  the 
Governor-General  of  the  territories  to  which  the  Agents  were 
accredited.  One  of  these  high  officers  either  did  not  lock 
up  the  correspondence,  or  a  key  of  his  desk  was  procured. 
Anyhow  the  great  man's  Jemadar,  or  native  officer  of  orderlies, 
who  attends  his  master  at  home  and  abroad,  and  is  in  some- 
what the  same  pi  sition  as  that  of  the  Jdger  about  a  German 
potentate,  got  at  the  correspondence,  and  being  able  to  read 
English,  profited  thereby.     Learning  that  it  was  proposed  to 

increase  the  salute  of  the  Rajah  of  A from  n  guns  to  13 

guns,  of  the  Maharajah  of  F from   13  guns  to  15   guns, 

and  so  on  with  half  a  dozen  more,  he  repaired  to  these 
Chiefs  in  turn,  saying,  "Your  Highness,  I  believe,  would 
wish  for  an  increase  of  your  salute  ? "  His  Highness  said 
there  was  nothing  nearer  to  his  heart  than  that  desire. 
"  Well,"  continued  the  Jemadar,  "  I  am  not  sure,  but  I  think 
I  may  be  able  to  advance  your  wish.  The  subject  is  very 
difficult,  but,  as  your  Highness  knows,  I  have  some  influence 
with  the  Agent,  and  it  shall  be  used  to  the  best  of  my  ability. 
Of  reward,  I  ask  for  none  unless  I  succeed.  If  the  salute  is 
increased,  then  perhaps  a  remembrance  of  one  thousand  rupees 
to  this  slave  for  his  services  will  not  appear  excessive.  If  I 
fail,  I  ask  for  nothing.  No  increase,  no  rupees."  A  bargain 
on  these  terms  was  immediately  struck,  and  the  astute 
Jemadar   went   the   round    of  all    the  chiefs  on   the  list,  and 


A    SPECIAL    DECORATION  353 

had  no  difficulty  in  arranging  with  all  on  similar  terms.  At 
the  Durbar  came  the  announcement  of  the  coveted  increase, 
and  the  Chiefs  all  paid  up  honourably.  But,  as  already 
explained,  the  honour  was  much  discounted  by  the  fact  that 
every  one  else  also  had  benefited.  A  certain  potentate  who 
had  19  guns  of  salute  was  overjoyed  when  he  learnt  that 
his  salute  had  been  increased  to  21  guns,  for  he  knew  that 
this  was  the  maximum  enjoyed  by  the  Viceroy,  and  also 
that  fired  off  for  the  Queen.  And  if  men  of  His  Highness's 
class  know  nothing  else,  they  know,  at  least,  all  about  salutes. 
But  the  disappointment  was  intense  when  he  found  that  not 
only  had  his  three  rivals  also  obtained  a  similar  increase,  but 
that  the  Viceregal  salute  had  been  increased  to  31  guns, 
thereby  leaving  him  ten  guns  behind  instead  of  two  only ! 
In  fact,  as  we  naughtily  said  in  camp,  it  all  reminded  us 
somewhat  of  the  tea-party  in  '  Alice.'  Every  one  moved  up 
a  place.  But  no  one  got  any  advantage  out  of  it  except 
the  Hatter.  And  on  this  occasion  the  part  of  the  Hatter  was 
taken  by  Her  Majesty's  Viceroy ! 

The  Assemblage  held  on  that  1st  of  January  was  excellently 
managed,  and  the  sight  was  certainly  magnificent  and  im- 
pressive. The  Imperial  Herald,  who  read  Her  Majesty's 
gracious  proclamation,  was  a  huge  officer,  chosen  chiefly  for 
his  size  and  appearance,  who  suited  the  part  perfectly, 
arrayed  in  tabard,  &c,  on  which  were  embroidered  the 
imperial  arms  complete.  The  British  soldier  is  an  amusing 
creature,  and  refused  at  first  to  be  impressed  by  the  Herald. 
"  Confound  the  fellow,"  said  a  man  of  my  brother's  regiment 
— the  Xlth  (Prince  Consort's  Own)  Hussars — which  formed 
part  of  the  Viceregal  escort ;  "  blow'd  if  he  b'ain't  gone 
and  cut  up  the  Royal  Standard  and  made  trousers  out 
of  it !  " 

Later  in  the  day  it  became  known  that  a  special  decoration 
had  been  sanctioned  in  honour  of  the  occasion,  and  that 
certain  officials,  distinguished  natives,  and  others  were  to 
receive  a  medal,  designed  to  celebrate  the  event.  As  I  had 
served    as   an    additional    Private    Secretary   to   the   Viceroy, 

z 


354  0N    THE    GANGES   AND    IN   THE    HILLS 

my  name  was    included    in   the   list      At   that   time   (1877) 
decorations  were  not   so  plentiful  as   nowadays,  and   I   con- 
fess  that   I   received,  with    no    small    exultation,  the  official 
letter  informing  me  that  I  was  one  of  those  selected  to  be 
decorated.     In  the  evening  the  Viceroy  held  a  function,  and 
on  that  occasion  some  twenty  of  us  marched  out  the  richer 
by  a  large  medal  hung  about  our  necks  by  a  broad  crimson 
ribbon  with  a  narrow  yellow  border,  and  which,  at  a  distance, 
might  well  have  been  mistaken  for  a  high  class  of  an  Order 
of  Knighthood.      The  ribbon  was  all  that  could  be  desired  ; 
but  the  medal  itself  was  "  kolosdl,"  and  rather  too  grand — 
"  too   rich,   too   rare   for   human    nature's   daily  wear."      The 
fortunate  recipients   were,  however,  commanded  to  wear  the 
decoration   in   uniform  or  evening  dress  on  all  official  occa- 
sions, and  many  a  scoffer  was  not  a  little  pleased  with  the 
ribbon   well    setting  off  his    complexion.      Coming  out   from 
the  function,   I    said    to    Sir    Ashley    Eden,   who    had    been 
decorated   with    me,  that   I    could  not  make  out  the  legend 
on  the  reverse  of  the  medal  (on  the  one  side  was  the  Queen- 
Empress    crowned).      Sir   Ashley   answered    promptly,   "  Oh, 
it's  '  Kaisar '  something, — '  Kaisah   Tomasha,' 1  I  suppose."     I 
have  not  seen  many  of  these  medals  lately,  and  believe  they 
are   not   now  worn  in   military  uniform,  though  the  civilian 
can  add  to  his  splendour  by  hanging  the  medal  around  his 
neck.     It  is  nearly  2^  inches  in  diameter. 

Of  the  other  chief  functions  of  those  Indian  years,  I  must 
chronicle  the  grand  manoeuvres  at  Delhi,  when  the  largest 
force  then  known  in  India  was  got  together,  and  when  foreign 
officers  from  many  countries  attended.  It  was  determined  to 
bring  together  there  Volunteers  from  the  different  parts  of 
India,  and  I  was  appointed  to  the  command  of  the  force  or 
brigade  drawn  from  the  various  Provinces.  I  had  my  civil 
camp    and    staff    marched    up    to    Delhi,    near    where    the 

1  On  the  medal  was  "  Kaisar-i-Hind,  Empress  of  India."  Kaisah  Tomasha 
is  an  Indian  expression  for  "What  a  show!" — "What  a  business!"  Tomasha 
—  "Tommy  Shaw" — is  a  word  dear  to  the  British  soldier.  Kaisah  Tomasha  is  a. 
very  common  expression  of  amazement  among  natives  when  they  see  anything 
grand. 


AN   EVENING    PARTY  355 

manoeuvres  were  held,  and  thus  had  a  double  staff  to  help 
me  in  my  duties,  which  were  anything  but  light.  Our  brigade 
was  attached  to  the  Southern  Army,  and  all  the  operations 
of  scouting,  attack,  &c.,  were  carried  out  as  in  actual  warfare. 
We  were  all  clad  in  khaki  —  almost  invisible  in  this  dusty 
northern  plain.  Rather  late  in  the  day,  but  before  the  final 
fighting,  there  arrived  in  camp  the  Bombay  contingent, 
particularly  smart,  but  with  white  helmets,  which  would  have 
betrayed  themselves  to  the  enemy  miles  off.  The  General 
commanding  the  Division  told  me  that  he  would  not  allow 
this  smart  corps  to  join  in  the  battle  on  the  morrow  in 
the  white  helmets,  which  would  give  the  whole  force  away. 
Their  commandant  was  in  despair.  I  had  a  sensible  wife, 
and  she  had  on  her  staff  a  sensible  and  energetic  little 
durzi,  or  tailor.  Between  them,  they  suggested  that  we 
should  invite  a  large  number  of  durzis  from  the  city  of 
Delhi  to  the  camp  that  evening  to  an  evening  party  (I  had 
got  the  idea  from  the  Magistrate  of  Patna's  garden-party 
above  cited).  So  the  whole  of  my  Burkandaze  escort,  with 
my  Private  Secretary  and  the  little  durzi  aforesaid,  went  off 
in  the  afternoon  to  the  bazaar  to  distribute  the  invitations, 
and  succeeded  in  netting  some  thirty  durzis.  The  cloth  was 
all  ready  to  begin  upon.  Those  men  worked  hard  all  night 
to  the  strains  of  the  bazaar  music.  Rough  covers  for  the 
helmets  were  turned  out  by  the  score  every  hour,  and,  when 
fairly  finished,  were  plunged  into  caldrons  of  light-coloured 
coffee  of  the  proper  tint,  which  proved  an  effective  temporary 
dye.  By  five  o'clock  the  next  morning  all  the  covers  were 
ready,  and  that  distinguished  Volunteer  corps  duly  took 
part  in  the  general  engagement  that  followed,  and  were 
duly  grateful  to  my  wife  for  not  having  been  ruled  out  of 
action.  The  durzis,  I  hope,  enjoyed  their  evening  party.  I 
myself  saw  that  they  were  well  paid,  and  they  all  went 
off  jabbering  the  next  morning,  quite  satisfied  with  their 
treatment. 

Our  Civil  camp  was  to  help  us  yet  further  in  our  military 
duties,  and  to  the  forethought  of  my  wife  a  large  body  of 


356  ON    THE    GANGES   AND    IN    THE    HILLS 

men  were  indebted  for  dry  clothes,  when  those  in  the  neigh- 
bouring camps  were  all  shivering  in  damp  tunics.  Alas ! 
just  before  the  great  Review  day,  when  we  were  all  to 
march  past  before  the  Viceroy,  who  had  journeyed  from 
Calcutta  for  the  Review,  it  was  evident  we  were  to  have 
heavy  rain.  There  are  few  conditions  so  hideous  as  a  damp 
tent  and  wet  clothes.  Near  to  our  camp  my  wife  had 
noticed  some  disused  brick-kilns,  the  walls  of  which  were 
standing.  Grass  coverings,  such  as  are  placed  on  carts  to 
keep  off  the  rain,  were  procured  in  large  quantities  from  the 
bazaar,  and  the  kilns  were  roughly  thatched  in.  Masses  of 
charcoal,  in  earthenware  pots,  were  also  got  ready.  And  not 
too  soon  !  Before  the  parade  was  formed  on  the  great  day, 
the  skies  opened  as  only  in  the  tropics  do  they  know  how 
to  do  it.  I  have  seen  heavy  rain,  but  I  never  remember 
anything  like  the  torrents  of  that  morning.  It  lasted  a  few 
hours  only,  but  that  was  sufficient  to  swamp  everything. 
Our  brigade  being  Volunteers,  and  ranking  behind  the  regi- 
ments of  the  Native  Army,  came  the  very  last  in  that  huge 
host.  And  we  had  to  stand  on  the  parade-ground  in  the 
torrential  rain  until  every  other  corps  had  been  inspected, 
and  then  we  marched  past  last  of  all.  A  fatal  mistake  had 
been  made  in  sending  the  cavalry  and  artillery  past  in  their 
proper  places,  as  on  any  other  occasion — that  is,  before  the 
infantry.  The  result  was,  the  whole  ground  over  which  we 
had  to  march  was  a  quagmire.  Just  in  front  of  us  was  the 
unfortunate  native  regiment  which  got  into  disgrace,  in  this 
wise.  They  wore  native  shoes,  which  slip  on  and  off  like 
slippers.  As  they  marched  into  the  quagmire — the  ground 
at  the  saluting-point,  where  were  assembled  the  Viceroy,  the 
Staff,  and  all  the  Foreign  officers — the  shoes  of  the  unfor- 
tunate men  were  claimed  and  pulled  off  by  the  mud.  Then 
commenced  a  scene  such  as  I  have  never  beheld.  The  men 
broke  their  ranks  and  scattered  to  search  for  the  shoes  in 
the  mud,  squabbling  and  chattering.  The  business  was  fatal. 
We  all  got  back  to  camp  wet  to  the  skin.  I  was,  of  course, 
mounted,  and  my  jack-boots  were  quite  full  of  water.     Then 


THE   AMEER   AT   RAWUL-PINDI  357 

did  the  wisdom  of  my  wife's  precautions  appear.  The  men's 
clothes  were  dried  in  a  couple  of  hours  in  the  brick-kilns, 
and  our  camp  was  the  most  favoured  in  a  host  of  many 
thousands  of  wet,  shivering  men.  I  carried  away  with  me 
the  remembrance  of  a  cheery,  amusing  American  officer,  who 
took  his  wetting  very  philosophically.  He  and  the  other 
foreign  visitors  had  been  mounted  by  the  cavalry  regiments 
in  camp.  I  asked  him  about  his  mount.  "  Well,"  said  he, 
"  that  charger  of  yours  played  cup-and-ball  with  me  the 
whole  morning,  and  only  missed  me  twice."  I  asked  another 
American,  who  had  fought  on  the  A  side  in  the  Civil  War, 
what  the  cavalry  of  the  B  side  were  like.  "  Well,  I  assure 
you,  sir,"  replied  he,  "  when  we  attacked  them,  they  all  got 
off  their  horses  to  run."  No  more  realistic  description  as  to 
the  merits  of  these  cavalry  soldiers  would  be  possible. 

To  my  mind  American  humour  is  the  crispest  and  cheeriest 
I  know. 

Another  big  function  I  attended  in  India  with  my  wife  was 
the  great  Durbar  at  Rawul-Pindi  in  1885,  when  Lord  Dufiferin 
received  there  the  Ameer  of  Afghanistan.  A  very  imposing 
force  of  all  arms  was  assembled  at  the  camp,  which  the 
Commander-in-Chief,  Sir  Donald  Stewart,  also  attended.  He 
was  good  enough  to  appoint  me  his  Volunteer  aide-de-camp 
(this  was  before  I  had  been  appointed  an  aide-de-camp  to  the 
Queen),  and  in  that  capacity  I  accompanied  him  to  Rawul- 
Pindi.  For  the  Durbar  itself  the  weather  held  up.  But  at  the 
end  of  the  great  review  the  rain  came  down  in  waterspouts, 
and  continued  to  pour  for  all  the  rest  of  the  time  we  were  in 
camp.  On  this  occasion,  the  force  being  very  large,  and  the 
Viceroy  and  Ameer  both  being  present,  the  Commander-in- 
Chief  took  command  of  the  review  in  person.  It  seldom 
happens  that  the  Commander-in-Chief  himself  leads  the  march 
past.  But  Sir  Donald  Stewart  did  so  on  this  occasion,  being 
preceded  by  his  aides-de-camp,  of  which  I,  being  the  junior, 
rode  the  first.  Soon  after  the  rain  commenced.  Sir  Donald 
had  put  on  a  brand-new  scarlet  tunic.  Over  this  he  wore  the 
broad  ribbon  of  the  Bath,  in  colour  a  rich  lake  or  carmine. 


358  ON   THE   GANGES   AND   IN   THE   HILLS 

The  silk  was  apparently  not  "  fast,"  for  the  crimson  colour 
came  off  in  streaks  and  utterly  ruined  the  new  tunic.  I  had 
only  one  full-dress  tunic  with  me.  Every  function  was  in  full- 
dress,  as  the  Viceroy,  the  Duke  of  Connaught,  and  the  Ameer 
were  all  present,  and  the  difficulty  of  getting  one's  clothes  dry 
was  great.  One  afternoon  I  was  seated  in  my  tent,  my  feet  in 
hot  water,  trying  to  exorcise  a  cold.  My  uniforms  were  all  wet 
through  and  were  being  dried.  I  was  in  a  large  tent  parti- 
tioned off  by  curtains,  one  division  being  a  sitting-room. 
Suddenly  my  wife  said,  "  Here  are  the  Duke  and  Duchess  of 
Connaught."  I  said  "  Horror  !"  not  having  a  dry  stitch  to  my 
back.  Her  Royal  Highness  jokingly,  in  coming  into  the 
adjoining  compartment  of  the  tent,  remarked  that  I  had 
betrayed  my  presence  next  door  by  my  utterance.  I  looked 
about  to  see  how  I  could  possibly  costume  myself  to  appear. 
I  bethought  me  of  a  spare  pair  of  jack-boots  which  had  so 
far  escaped  the  rain,  and  drew  them  on  over  thick  stockings 
and  a  pair  of  violet  sleeping-pyjamas.  These  I  covered  with 
my  long  military  greatcoat,  and  thought  myself  presentable 
enough.  All  went  well  in  the  half-light  of  the  tent.  But, 
unfortunately,  when  I  went  outside  to  accompany  their  Royal 
Highnesses  to  the  carriage,  the  blatant  violet  pyjamas  slipped 
down,  and  appearing  beneath  the  folds  of  the  greatcoat 
betrayed  me.  But  in  that  camp  of  swamps  everything  almost 
was  permissible.  Dining  at  the  Viceroy's,  one  had  to  walk 
on  a  plank  to  get  from  one  tent  to  another,  and  under  the 
planks  rushed  a  torrent  of  water.  The  discomfort  of  the  troops 
must  have  been  considerable.  But  they  bore  it  in  the  in- 
imitable good  -  tempered  way  for  which  "  Tommy "  is  so 
renowned. 


359 


CHAPTER    XVI. 

LATER     YEARS     IN     INDIA. 

1885-1894. 

A  definition  of  idleness  —  The  Volunteers  —  Foreigner's  view  of  the 
wonders  of  the  East — Am  attached  to  the  Cheshire  Regiment — 
Cholera  in  Allahabad — A  cholera  camp — An  undelivered  sermon — 
General  Sir  Herbert  M'Pherson  on  rifle  instruction — Command  the 
Wimbledon  Team  from  India — Difficulties  of  Volunteering — Com- 
mencement at  Ghazipore  —  Progress  —  Canvassing  —  Efforts  to 
popularise  movement — Two  corps  of  Light  Horse  and  a  battalion 
of  Infantry  raised — Scheme  of  so-called  Reserve  to  include 
'  stragglers  —  General  success  —  Appointed  Aide-de-Camp  to  the 
Queen  in  acknowledgment  of  efforts — Difficulty  of  obtaining  suit- 
able Adjutants — Excellence  of  the  Light  Horse — Volunteer  con- 
ditions in  England  and  India  widely  different  —  The  signalling 
sentry  —  The  Assistant  Adjutant  -  General's  indignation  —  The 
General's  personal  inquiry — Result — Excellent  services  of  Colonel 
George  Fox — And  Colonel  Holdsworth — Also  of  my  Adjutants, 
Colonel  Guy  Vivian  and  Major  Layton,  D.S.O. — End  of  my  Indian 
service  —  Hearty  farewells  —  Ball  given  by  the  Civil  Service — 
Banquet  at  Benares — Sir  John  Edge — The  Rivett-Carnac  Challenge 
Trophy — Government  complimentary  resolution — Journey  through 
the  Punjab  and  Sindh — Visit  to  the  grave  of  Sir  Henry  Durand — 
Bombay — Homeward  bound. 

WHILST  at  Ghazipore,  the  constant  intercourse  with  Europe 
helped  us  to  keep  abreast  of  much  that  was  interesting  at 
home.  Benares  was  a  point  which  no  one  coming  out  to  see 
India  could  omit  on  the  tour,  and  as  we  were  within  easy  reach 
of  the  holy  city  most  of  our  friends  found  us  out.  And  one 
had  time  to  be  thoroughly  idle,  according  to  the  standard  of 
idleness  of  a  distinguished  member  of  our  service  who  left 
India  soon  after  my  first  arrival  in  Calcutta.     A